CN109350561B - 一种稳定且有视觉化清洁功效的无泡沫洗面霜 - Google Patents
一种稳定且有视觉化清洁功效的无泡沫洗面霜 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种稳定且有视觉化清洁功效的无泡沫洗面霜,该洗面霜的重量份配比为:保湿剂5%~30%、增稠剂0.8%~2%、乳化剂3%~4%、蜂蜡2%~4%、润肤剂30%~40%、成膜剂0.1%~0.2%、皮肤调理剂0.1%~1%、氢氧化钾0~1%,余量为去离子水;其中增稠剂为卡波姆、丙烯酸类共聚物、丙烯酸酯类共聚物等,成膜剂为细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素等。本发明无泡沫洗面霜无分层、变色等不稳定现象,具有商品化稳定性且有视觉化清洁功效,作用温和,使用方便,能有效去除肌肤老化角质、洁净皮肤、使肌肤水润光滑,且无环境污染、无刺激,适用任何肤质。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种有商品化稳定性且有视觉化清洁功效的无泡沫洗面霜。
背景技术
人的皮肤由多层组成,皮肤细胞会经历生长、成熟、衰老和死亡的过程。然而,随着年龄的增长,表皮的更替速度会减慢,死细胞会黏在一起附于上皮表面,导致皮肤暗淡无光。同时,皮肤上也会常常附着一些污物、皮脂及其他分泌物,因而在清洁皮肤的同时,我们仍会使用一些有磨砂剂的清洁霜以达到去除角质层老化及死亡细胞,维持皮肤健康的目的。
目前市场上清洁类化妆品种类繁多,但卸妆油、洁面膏、按摩霜等产品需要配合使用,导致过度清洁肌肤,从而造成损伤或过敏等不良现象,因此独有清洁效果已经不能满足消费者的需求。所以清洁效果好、作用温和、使用方便等功效融为一体的产品深受青睐,随之市场上添加磨砂剂的清洁类产品脱颖而出。然而,目前市场上一些含有磨砂剂的清洁霜虽有去除角质清洁皮肤的功能,但对皮肤刺激大,且用后皮肤极易干燥。
通过物理途径去除角质产品中的摩擦介质,可以分为:(1)糖粒、盐粒、天然材质类;(2)塑料颗粒类;(3)增稠剂类。糖粒、盐粒、天然材质类去角质产品,主要是利用糖粒、盐粒、以及一些天然颗粒和皮肤摩擦,达到去角质的目的,角质去除效果取决于颗粒的大小,缺点是和皮肤摩擦过程中有可能会伤到皮肤。塑料颗粒类去角质产品以塑料为磨砂颗粒,常用的磨砂颗粒有聚乙烯、聚丙烯、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯,相对天然摩擦颗粒较柔软、平滑,但缺点是不容易降解,导致环境污染问题,在欧美有些国家被慢慢禁用。增稠剂类去角质产品中所含的增稠剂,比如纤维素、卡波姆、黄原胶,和皮肤上的油脂接触后,加上按摩、揉搓,很容易结块,在揉搓的过程中,清除污垢、老化的角质细胞,这类去角质产品没有磨砂颗粒,属温和作用的去角质产品,可适用于敏感、娇嫩肌肤的人群。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于针对市场现有清洁类产品功能单一、使用过程繁琐、刺激性大等问题,提供一种有商品化稳定性且有视觉化清洁功效,作用温和,使用方便,并能有效去除肌肤老化角质、洁净皮肤、使肌肤水润光滑,且无环境污染、无刺激,适用任何肤质的无泡沫洗面霜。
针对上述目的,本发明所采用的无泡沫洗面霜由下述重量份配比的原料制成:
洗面霜由以下重量份配比的原料制成:保湿剂5%~30%、增稠剂0.8%~2%、乳化剂3%~4%、蜂蜡2%~4%、润肤剂30%~40%、成膜剂0.1%~0.2%、皮肤调理剂0.1%~1%、氢氧化钾0~1%,余量为去离子水。
上述的增稠剂为卡波姆、丙烯酸类共聚物、丙烯酸酯类共聚物、丙烯酸类/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸酯类/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中至少一种;优选卡波姆、丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中至少一种。
上述的成膜剂为细小裸藻多糖、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素中至少一种。
上述的保湿剂为甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油聚醚-26、聚乙二醇-32、透明质酸钠中至少一种。
上述的乳化剂为PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-60、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷中至少一种。
上述的润肤剂为白油、棕榈酸乙基己酯、碳酸二辛酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯中至少一种。
上述的皮肤调理剂为尿囊素、泛醇、玫瑰精油、苦橙叶精油、茶树精油、柠檬精油中任意一种。
本发明无泡沫洗面霜的制备方法为:按照上述质量百分比组成,将乳化剂、润肤剂在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将蜂蜡、增稠剂、保湿剂加入去离子水,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将成膜剂加入60℃去离子水中分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入皮肤调理剂和氢氧化钾,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得无泡沫洗面霜成品。
本发明无泡沫洗面霜的pH值在6.0~7.0范围内,接近皮肤弱酸性环境,没有添加磨砂颗粒及柠檬酸类的原料,是通过润肤剂溶解毛囊口的脂性分泌物、皮肤表面的彩妆及污垢,按摩时增稠剂中的高分子长链与侧链的卷联作用将润肤剂溶解的物质有效去除,且温和带走老化角质。同时配以保湿剂和皮肤调理剂可有舒缓保湿功效,使肌肤水嫩有光泽。
本发明无泡沫洗面霜具有商品化稳定性且有视觉化清洁功效,无分层、变色等不稳定现象,作用温和,使用方便,且能有效去除肌肤老化角质、洁净皮肤、使肌肤水润光滑,且无环境污染、无刺激,适用任何肤质。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明进一步详细说明,但本发明的保护范围不仅限于这些实施例。
实施例1
将3g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、3g蜂蜡、40g白油在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将1g卡波姆、15g甘油加入30g去离子水里,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将0.1g细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖加入7.55g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.1g玫瑰精油和0.25g氢氧化钾,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
实施例2
将1g聚山梨醇酯-60、1.5g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、2g蜂蜡、30g白油在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将0.8g卡波姆、20g甘油加入36.5g去离子水里,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将0.1g细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖加入8g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.1g玫瑰精油和0.2g氢氧化钾,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
实施例3
将1g聚山梨醇酯-60、1.5g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、2g蜂蜡、30g白油在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将1g丙烯酸/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、20g甘油加入36.2g去离子水里,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将0.2g细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖加入8g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.1g玫瑰精油,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
实施例4
将1g鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、2g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、2g蜂蜡、20g碳酸二辛酯、5g二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将1.5g丙烯酸/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、7g甘油加入53.2g去离子水里,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解得到水相;将0.2g羟乙基纤维素加入8g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.1g玫瑰精油,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
实施例5
将1g鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、1.5g甘油硬脂酸酯、1g聚山梨醇酯-60、2g蜂蜡、30g白油在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解得到油相;将1g丙烯酸/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、15g甘油加入43.2g去离子水里中,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将0.15g羟乙基纤维素加入5g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.15g玫瑰精油,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
实施例6
将0.5g甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、1.5g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、2g蜂蜡、20g白油、10g辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将1.2g丙烯酸共聚物、30g甘油加入26.5g去离子水中,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将0.15g黄原胶加入8g去离子水中加热至60℃分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入0.15g玫瑰精油,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得100g无泡沫洗面霜成品。
为了确定本发明的原料配比,发明人进行了大量的研究实验,具体实验情况如下:
1、确定增稠剂用量
以卡波姆为例,按照表1中的原料质量百分比组成,根据实施例1的方法制备成洗面霜,测试所得样品有无视觉化清洁功效,并考察其商品化稳定性(45℃,30天),结果见表2。
表1洗面霜组成(单位wt%)
注:氢氧化钾作为卡波姆的中和剂,与卡波姆添加量的比是1:4。
表2洗面霜性能测试结果
由表2可见,卡波姆的用量在0.8%以上时有视觉化清洁功效,但卡波姆添加量大于2.0%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象,因此本发明选择增稠剂的添加量为0.8%~2.0%。
2、确定成膜剂用量
以细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖为例,按照表3中的原料质量百分比组成,根据实施例1的方法制备成洗面霜,测试所得样品视觉化清洁功效速度,并考察其商品化稳定性(45℃,30天),其中视觉化清洁功效速度检测方法为:取1g样品于皮肤,以此为中心用手指指腹在半径为2cm范围内打圈按摩,计算出现视觉化清洁功效的打圈按摩次数。实验结果见表4。
表3洗面霜组成(单位wt%)
表4洗面霜性能测试结果
由表4可见,细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖的用量在0.1%以上时出现视觉化清洁功效的速度更快,即视觉化清洁功效更明显,但细小裸藻(EUGLENA GRACILIS)多糖添加量大于0.2%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象,因此本发明选择成膜剂的添加量为0.1%~0.2%。
3、确定润肤剂添加量
以白油为例,按照表5中的原料质量百分比组成,根据实施例1的方法制备成洗面霜,评估所得样品的皮肤清洁度,并考察其商品化稳定性(45℃,30天),其中皮肤清洁度评估方法为:用1g样品在唇膏遮盖的皮肤(1cm2)表面打圈按摩20次,观察皮肤清洁度。实验结果见表6。
表5洗面霜组成(单位wt%)
表6洗面霜性能测试结果
由表6可见,白油的用量为20%以下时皮肤清洁度较低,在30%以上时皮肤清洁度良好,但白油添加量为50%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象;蜂蜡的用量为2%以上时皮肤清洁度均良好,但蜂蜡添加量为5%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象。因此本发明选择润肤剂的添加量为30%~40%、蜂蜡的添加量为2%~4%。
4、确定乳化剂添加量
以PEG-100硬脂酸酯为例,按照表7中的原料质量百分比组成,根据实施例1的方法制备成洗面霜,考察所得样品的商品化稳定性(45℃,30天),结果见表8。
表7洗面霜组成(单位wt%)
表8洗面霜性能测试结果
由表8可见,PEG-100硬脂酸酯的用量为3%以上时皮肤清洁度良好,但PEG-100硬脂酸酯添加量为5%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象,因此本发明选择乳化剂的添加量为3%~4%。
5、确定皮肤调理剂用量
以尿囊素、泛醇、玫瑰精油为例,按照表9中的原料质量百分比组成,根据实施例1的方法制备成洗面霜,测试所得样品的使用敏感现象,并考察期商品化稳定性(45℃,30天),其中使用敏感评估方法为:25名志愿者采用问卷方式评估:温和舒适5分,轻微不适4分,不适3分,红、肿、痛感2分,强烈不适1分。结果见表10(表中敏感度评分为25份问卷评分的平均得分)。
表9洗面霜组成(单位wt%)
表10洗面霜性能测试结果
表11洗面霜敏感评价结果
由表10和表11可见,添加尿囊素、泛醇或玫瑰精油后,均能减少样品在使用过程中的不适感,但皮肤调理剂添加量为2%时样品不稳定,出现分层现象,因此本发明选择添加量不大于1%。
为了验证本发明的功效性、安全性及整体感官等各项指标,让30名(3个年龄段各10人)专业评估员试用实施例1的无泡沫洗面霜30天,评估结果见表12~14,表中评估分值:4分以下代表不接受;5-7分代表一般;8分以上代表满意。
表12
表13
表14
由表12~14可见,本发明洗面霜的测试结果清洁度和整体满意度分值不分皮肤类型和年龄段均在8.5以上,各个指标均为满意,且无刺激性,是安全洁肤产品。
Claims (1)
1.一种稳定且有视觉化清洁功效的无泡沫洗面霜,其特征在于该洗面霜由以下重量份配比的原料制成:保湿剂5%~30%、增稠剂0.8%~2%、乳化剂3%~4%、蜂蜡2%~4%、润肤剂30%~40%、成膜剂0.1%~0.2%、皮肤调理剂0.1%、氢氧化钾0~1%,余量为去离子水;
上述的增稠剂为卡波姆;
上述的成膜剂为细小裸藻多糖;
上述的皮肤调理剂为尿囊素、玫瑰精油中任意一种;
上述的乳化剂为PEG-100硬脂酸酯;
上述的润肤剂为白油、棕榈酸乙基己酯、碳酸二辛酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯中至少一种;
上述的保湿剂为甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油聚醚-26、聚乙二醇-32、透明质酸钠中至少一种;
上述洗面霜的制备方法为:按照上述质量百分比组成,将乳化剂、润肤剂在70℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到油相;将蜂蜡、增稠剂、保湿剂加入去离子水,在60℃下搅拌至完全溶解,得到水相;将成膜剂加入60℃去离子水中分散溶解后加入水相中,然后在搅拌条件下,将油相加入水相中,均质5分钟后降温至40℃,加入皮肤调理剂和氢氧化钾,在真空均质搅拌机中搅拌,进一步均匀并去除气泡,再紫外灭菌60分钟,即得无泡沫洗面霜成品。
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