CN109700755B

CN109700755B - Application of polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN109700755B
Application number: CN201910144178.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王培培; 石莲莲; 郑春阳
Original assignee: Robustnique Corp ltd
Current assignee: Robustnique Corp ltd
Priority date: 2019-02-27
Filing date: 2019-02-27
Publication date: 2022-02-18
Anticipated expiration: 2039-02-27
Also published as: CN109700755A

Abstract

The invention discloses an application of a polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics, wherein the polysaccharide humectant is a flavobacterium polysaccharide extract, and freeze-dried powder or solution is prepared by culturing, fermenting, extracting and purifying screened flavobacterium. The inventor finds that the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract has a good moisturizing effect for the first time, and provides an application of a polysaccharide moisturizing agent in cosmetics. Not only broadens the application field of flavobacterium, supplements the moisturizing raw materials of cosmetics, but also broadens the variety of the existing microbial polysaccharide.

Description

Application of polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic formulas, and particularly relates to an application of a polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics.

Background

Due to the aging and the influence of the external environment, the moisturizing structure of the skin is damaged, the water content between skin tissue cells and among cells is reduced, the cells are tightly arranged, collagen is dehydrated and hardened, when the water content in the horny layer is reduced to below 10 percent, the skin is dry, loses elasticity and wrinkles, and the skin aging process is accelerated. Therefore, moisture is critical to skin health, and water retention and moisture retention have been one of the most important research subjects for skin care cosmetics.

Conventional cosmetic moisturizers mainly include glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and the like. With the improvement of living standard, people's requirements for cosmetics tend to be natural, nutritious, safe and non-irritant. Therefore, polysaccharides have been used as moisturizers in cosmetics due to their excellent moisture absorption and retention properties, and thus, there is a trend toward moisturizing cosmetics. Polysaccharide moisturizers currently applied to cosmetics mainly comprise hyaluronic acid, chitin and derivatives thereof, plant and algae polysaccharide extracts, heparin, low relative molecular weight heparin and the like. Along with the development of microbiology, extracellular polysaccharide molecules in microbial polysaccharides contain a large amount of hydroxyl groups, so that the microbial polysaccharides have the advantages of good water absorption and moisture retention effects, capability of removing various free radicals, good oxidation resistance and the like, and are widely applied to the cosmetic industry. And compared with animal and plant polysaccharides, the exopolysaccharide in the microbial polysaccharide has high yield, simple purification and short production period, can avoid uncontrollable factors such as temperature, humidity, geographical conditions and the like, is more and more approved and commercialized, and common microbial polysaccharides comprise aureobasidium pullulans polysaccharide, xanthomonas campestris polysaccharide, streptococcus polysaccharide, sclerotium polysaccharide, leuconostoc polysaccharide and the like.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention discovers that the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract has a good moisturizing effect for the first time, and provides a new application of the polysaccharide moisturizing agent in cosmetics. The invention discloses a flavobacterium marginatum, belonging to the genus of Microbacterium, which not only widens the application field of flavobacterium, supplements the moisturizing raw materials of cosmetics, but also widens the variety of the existing microbial polysaccharide.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

an application of a polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics is provided, wherein the polysaccharide humectant is a flavobacterium polysaccharide extract.

The cosmetic is in the form of aqua, gel, emulsion, cream, suspending agent, film, spray or powder; the Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract accounts for 0-100% of the total mass of the cosmetic, and does not contain the numerical values of 0 and 100 at both ends.

The flavobacterium polysaccharide extract is prepared into freeze-dried powder or solution by screening flavobacterium and performing thallus culture, fermentation, extraction and purification.

The fermentation is one or two of liquid fermentation and semi-solid fermentation; the media used in the fermentation consisted of: 10-16g/L of tryptone, 5-10g/L of yeast extract, 5-10g/L of sodium chloride, 5-20 g/L of glucose, 0.04-0.07 g/L of magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, 0.05-1 g/L of calcium chloride, 0.05-2 g/L of manganese sulfate and 1L of water with the pH value of 6.5-7.0, wherein the water is distilled water, deionized water or tap water.

The extraction and purification method is selected from the combination of at least three of the following: leaching, extracting, precipitating, centrifuging, filtering, membrane separating, column chromatography, drying, and lyophilizing.

The extraction, extraction and precipitation processes use small molecular alcohol solvents of ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, inorganic salts, trichloroethane or trifluoroethane.

The moisturizing effect of the polysaccharide is as follows: 1. hydroxyl, carboxyl and other polar groups in polysaccharide molecules can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules to combine a large amount of water, and meanwhile, polysaccharide molecular chains are also interwoven into a net shape and combined with the hydrogen bonds of water to play a strong water retention role. In addition, in the extracellular matrix, polysaccharides constitute an extracellular matrix containing a large amount of moisture together with other sugar components and fibrous proteins in the skin, and provide moisture to the skin. 2. The polysaccharide has good film-forming property, can form a layer of uniform film on the surface of the skin, reduces the water evaporation on the surface of the skin, enables the water to be dispersed to the stratum corneum from the basal tissue, induces the stratum corneum to be further hydrated, preserves the water of the skin, and completes the skin moistening effect.

The invention has the beneficial effects that: the inventor finds that the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract has a good moisturizing effect for the first time, and provides an application of a polysaccharide moisturizing agent in cosmetics. Not only broadens the application field of flavobacterium, supplements the moisturizing raw materials of cosmetics, but also broadens the variety of the existing microbial polysaccharide.

The invention is further illustrated with reference to the following figures and examples.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph of the effect of example and control products on skin moisture content;

fig. 2 is a graph of the effect of example and control products on TEWL (transepidermal water loss).

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

The preparation method of the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract comprises the following steps:

1. culture of Flavobacterium

Firstly, preparing a culture medium: 10g/L of tryptone, 5g/L of yeast extract, 10g/L of sodium chloride, 1L of distilled water and 6.5-7.0 of ph. Culturing Flavobacterium in shake flask at 25-35 deg.C for 12-24 hr;

2. flavobacterium fermentation

Firstly, preparing a culture medium: 13g/L of tryptone, 8g/L of yeast extract, 6g/L of sodium chloride, 15 g/L of glucose, 0.04 g/L of magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, 0.06 g/L of calcium chloride, 0.08 g/L of manganese sulfate, 1L of water and 6.5-7.0 of ph. Fermenting and culturing flavobacterium at 27-37 deg.c for 24-36 hr;

3. flavobacterium extraction and purification

Firstly, adding 20g/L trichloroethane, shaking for 2-4 hours or heating at 90 ℃, centrifuging for 20-60 min at the rotating speed of 5000-10000 r/min at 4 ℃, and collecting supernatant; then, 3 times of volume of ethanol is used, standing is carried out for 12h at 4 ℃, then the rotation speed of 5000-; dissolving the crude sugar component with distilled water, and removing impurities from the crude sugar solution by dialysis, ion exchange or column chromatography to obtain Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract solution;

4. the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract freeze-dried powder can be prepared by further adopting drying and freeze-drying modes.

Application example 1

The formula of the smoothing toner is shown in table 1.

TABLE 1A formula (mass fraction) of the smoothing toner containing the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract of the present invention

The preparation method of the smoothing toner comprises the following steps:

1. adding deionized water, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate and methyl hydroxybenzoate in phase A into an emulsifying pot, heating to 85 deg.C, stirring for dissolving, and keeping the temperature for 20 min;

2. cooling to 45 deg.C, adding water soluble jojoba oil, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, panthenol and Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract in phase B, and stirring;

3, uniformly mixing phenoxyethanol and butanediol in the phase C, and adding the mixture into an emulsifying pot;

4. and uniformly mixing the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and the daily essence in the phase D, cooling to 40 ℃, adding into an emulsifying pot, and continuously stirring uniformly to obtain the smoothing toner.

Application example 2

The formula of the anti-aging essence is shown in table 2.

TABLE 2A formula (mass fraction) containing the anti-aging essence of Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract

The preparation method of the anti-aging essence comprises the following steps:

1. adding deionized water, glycerol, xanthan gum, panthenol and methyl hydroxybenzoate in phase A into an emulsifying pot, stirring, heating to 85 deg.C, and keeping the temperature for 20 min;

2. adding B phase Olivem 1000, Olivem 300, lecithin and Heliogel into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, and completely dissolving the materials;

3. adding the product 2 into the product 1, stirring, homogenizing and cooling;

4. cooling to 45 deg.C, sequentially adding Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract and phenoxyethanol in phase C, and stirring;

5. cooling to 40 deg.C, adding the essence for daily use of phase D, and stirring to obtain the antiaging essence.

Application example 3

The cream formulations are shown in table 3.

TABLE 3 formula (mass fraction) of nourishing cream containing Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract of the present invention

The preparation method of the nourishing face cream comprises the following steps:

1. adding deionized water, glycerol and xanthan gum in the phase A into an emulsifying pot, stirring, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 20 minutes;

2. adding Olivem 1000, shea butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, tocopheryl acetate, polydimethylsiloxane and Heliogel in the B phase into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, adding the mixture into the 1 after the materials are completely dissolved, stirring, homogenizing and cooling;

3. cooling to 45 deg.C, sequentially adding Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract and phenoxyethanol in phase C, and stirring;

4. cooling to 40 deg.C, adding the essence for daily use of phase D, and stirring to obtain nourishing facial cream.

Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract moisture retention performance test

Under the conditions of the ambient temperature of 20 +/-2 ℃ and the ambient humidity of 40-60%, a multi-probe skin tester Cutomer (MPA 580, C + K company, Germany) is adopted, the change of the moisture content and TEWL (percutaneous water loss) of the skin of the human face after the cosmetics containing the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract are used is tested by taking a product without the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract as a control for each formula, and the moisturizing effect of the cosmetics containing the flavobacterium fermented polysaccharide extract on the skin is observed.

20 volunteers were selected and provided with the smoothing toner, the anti-aging essence and the nourishing cream described in application examples 1 to 3, and the smoothing toner, the anti-aging essence and the nourishing cream without the flavobacterium fermentation polysaccharide extract described in the present invention. By adopting a half-face test, the left half face of a volunteer is coated with the product of the embodiment 1-3 of the invention in the sequence of smoothing toner, anti-aging essence and nourishing cream, the right half face of the volunteer is coated with the product without the flavobacterium fermented polysaccharide extract in the sequence of smoothing toner, anti-aging essence and nourishing cream, the product is uniformly coated twice a day, the initial value of the test before use is tested in 15 days and 30 days, and the change conditions of the moisture content of the skin and the TEWL (percutaneous water loss) are respectively shown in figure 1 and figure 2. Therefore, the moisturizing effect of the product can be obviously improved by adding the flavobacterium fermented polysaccharide extract into cosmetics.

The flavobacterium polysaccharide extract can be used as a humectant in various cosmetics with the effects of moisturizing, whitening, resisting aging, repairing, sun screening, removing acne, controlling oil and the like, the cosmetics are in the forms of water aqua, gel, emulsion, cream, suspending agent, film agent, spray or powder, and the using positions are not limited to eyes, faces, hands, bodies and the like.

It should be understood that the above-described embodiments of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention, and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. Not all embodiments are exhaustive. All obvious changes and modifications which are obvious to the technical scheme of the invention are covered by the protection scope of the invention.

Claims

1. The application of a polysaccharide humectant in cosmetics is characterized in that the polysaccharide humectant is a flavobacterium polysaccharide extract; the flavobacterium polysaccharide extract is freeze-dried powder or solution prepared by culturing, fermenting, extracting and purifying screened flavobacterium marginatum.

2. The use of a polysaccharide moisturizer in cosmetics according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic is in the form of an aqueous solution, gel, emulsion, cream, suspension, film, spray or powder; the Flavobacterium polysaccharide extract accounts for 0-100% of the total mass of the cosmetic, and does not contain the numerical values of 0 and 100 at both ends.

3. The use of the polysaccharide moisturizer of claim 1 in cosmetics, wherein the fermentation is one or both of liquid fermentation and semi-solid fermentation; the medium used in the fermentation process consisted of: 10-16g/L of tryptone, 5-10g/L of yeast extract, 5-10g/L of sodium chloride, 5-20 g/L of glucose, 0.04-0.07 g/L of magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, 0.05-1 g/L of calcium chloride, 0.05-2 g/L of manganese sulfate, 1L of water and pH of 6.5-7.0.

4. The use of a polysaccharide moisturizer as defined in claim 1 in cosmetics, wherein the extraction and purification method is selected from the group consisting of at least three of: leaching, extracting, precipitating, centrifuging, filtering, membrane separating, column chromatography, drying, and lyophilizing.

5. The use of the polysaccharide moisturizer as claimed in claim 4, wherein the extraction is performed by heating to 90 ℃ for sterilization and inactivation of protease, and the removal of the bacterial cells is performed by centrifugation or filtration.

6. The use of the polysaccharide moisturizer as claimed in claim 4, wherein the extraction is performed by adding trichloroethane or trifluoroethane and removing the bacterial cells and proteins by centrifugation or filtration.

7. The use of the polysaccharide moisturizer in cosmetics according to claim 4, wherein the extraction, extraction and precipitation process uses small alcohol solvents such as ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, inorganic salts, trichloroethane or trifluoroethane.