CN109402833A - 一种透气保暖羊毛面料 - Google Patents

一种透气保暖羊毛面料 Download PDF

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CN109402833A
CN109402833A CN201811070849.0A CN201811070849A CN109402833A CN 109402833 A CN109402833 A CN 109402833A CN 201811070849 A CN201811070849 A CN 201811070849A CN 109402833 A CN109402833 A CN 109402833A
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cloth
wool
double
processing
machine
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卢雪康
吴定芳
卢志力
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Zhongshan Xinkanghe Knitting Co Ltd
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Zhongshan Xinkanghe Knitting Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
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    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0246—Acrylic resin fibres
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/08—Animal fibres, e.g. hair, wool, silk
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/14—Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
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    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/70—Other properties
    • B32B2307/724—Permeability to gases, adsorption
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    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
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Abstract

本发明提供一种透气保暖羊毛面料，包括表层和接触层，其特征在于：所述表层由30%羊毛以及70%腈纶纤维组成，所述接触层由95%聚酯纤维以及5%氨纶组成，与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下的有益效果：克服了传统面料耐洗性差、易起皱起球、易变形，穿着不舒服、皮肤有刺痒感等弊端，增强了蓬松挺括但又柔软舒适的感受，增加了耐晒性和抗皱性，提高了保暖透气功能，不易变形，保型性能极佳，从而拓宽了面料更广阔的发展空间，其功能具有良好的持久性。

Description

一种透气保暖羊毛面料
技术领域
本发明是一种透气保暖羊毛面料，属于服装面料领域。
背景技术
羊毛面料即以羊毛为原料纺织而成的面料，分为梭织面料和针织面料。羊毛面料色泽自然柔和、保暖效果好、是制作高档西服和大衣的首选面料。
在现有技术，通过纺织制成的面料，大多不能同时具备透气抗皱保型和柔软舒适保暖的功能，柔软舒适就易皱易变形，挺括抗皱就刺痒皮肤保暖性差，尤其是羊毛面料，最易刺痒皮肤，也无法用针织工艺来做。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明目的是提供一种透气保暖羊毛面料，以解决上述背景技术中提出的问题。
为了实现上述目的，本发明是通过如下的技术方案来实现：一种透气保暖羊毛面料，包括表层和接触层，所述表层由30%羊毛以及70%腈纶纤维组成，所述接触层由95%聚酯纤维以及5%氨纶组成。
一种透气保暖羊毛面料由以下步骤制成：
首先将羊毛以及腈纶纤维混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织，形成提花透气、蓬松挺括的羊毛胚布，羊毛胚布的厚度为0.5～1mm；
同时将聚酯纤维以及氨纶混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织形成的弹力双面布；
再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理；
将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，进行梳绒处理；
再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，进行剪毛处理；
将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，进行整烫处理，制成绒布，绒布的厚度为2～3mm；
再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布；
再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料；
最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库。
进一步地，所述表层纱线为毛纺工艺，织造为针织纬编工艺，是毛纺与针织的完美结合，是针织界的一大创新，将毛纺品做出针织工艺的布面效果。
进一步地，所述再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机中，将两个针辊间的距离调整至3～5mm，并将逆针辊速度比零点速度低1～2r/rain，顺针辊速度比零点速度高5～6r/rain，PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机将弹力双面布表面进行起绒。
进一步地，所述将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至B261型梳绒机中，将道夫转速调整到10～12r/min，将刺辊转速调整到28r/min，将斩刀次数调整到450次/min，B261型梳绒机将弹力双面布表面进行梳绒。
进一步地，所述再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，对弹力双面布进行剪毛处理具体加工步骤如下：将胚布输送至ME503C型单刀剪毛机中，将门幅调整至1900～2000mm，进步速度调整至10～30m/min，螺旋刀直径调整至180mm，刀片数设置为24，转速调整至250～1200r/min，ME503C型单刀剪毛机将弹力双面布表面毛圈剪断剪齐。
进一步地，所述将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，对弹力双面布进行整烫处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布至YP型整烫机中，将进料转速调整至7～19r/min，蒸汽压力调整至0.4～0.6MPa，YP型整烫机将弹力双面布进行整烫。
进一步地，所述再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，制成胚布步骤如下：将一层羊毛胚布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布覆盖到这一层羊毛胚布上端面，实现粘结，然后再将绒布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布上端面覆盖上另一层羊毛胚布，实现粘结，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布。
进一步地，所述再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料具体加工步骤如下：将粘结后的胚布输送至MONTEX-6000拉幅定型机中，将拉幅定型温度调整至180℃～190℃，风速调整至1400转～1700转，并依次添加2%～4%柔软剂、3%～5%平滑剂以及1%～1.5%抗静电剂。
进一步地，所述最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库具体加工步骤如下：将成品面料放置在检验台上，对成品面料上的断丝、破洞、横杠、坏边、纬斜、脏污、拉毛以及剃毛进行检验，如无以上缺陷，将合格成品面料打包入库。
本发明的有益效果：本发明的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，具有很好的保暖功能，抗皱保型，耐晒耐洗，色泽亮丽，不易褪色，透气性好。
本发明克服了羊毛的刺痒感，将羊毛的挺括厚实和聚酯纤维的柔软舒适特性有机结合起来，使面料既保暖又有型。
具体实施方式
为使本发明实现的技术手段、创作特征、达成目的与功效易于明白了解，下面结合具体实施方式，进一步阐述本发明。
本发明提供一种技术方案：一种透气保暖羊毛面料，包括表层和接触层，表层由30%羊毛以及70%腈纶纤维组成，接触层由95%聚酯纤维以及5%氨纶组成。
一种透气保暖羊毛面料由以下步骤制成：
首先将羊毛以及腈纶纤维混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织，形成提花透气、蓬松挺括的羊毛胚布，羊毛胚布的厚度为0.5～1mm；
同时将聚酯纤维以及氨纶混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织形成的弹力双面布；
再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理；
将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，进行梳绒处理；
再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，进行剪毛处理；
将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，进行整烫处理，制成绒布，绒布的厚度为2～3mm；
再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布；
再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料；
最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库。
作为本发明的一个实施例：表层纱线为毛纺工艺，织造为针织纬编工艺，是毛纺与针织的完美结合，是针织界的一大创新，将毛纺品做出针织工艺的布面效果。
作为本发明的一个实施例：再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机中，将两个针辊间的距离调整至3～5mm，并将逆针辊速度比零点速度低1～2r/rain，顺针辊速度比零点速度高5～6r/rain，PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机将弹力双面布表面进行起绒。
作为本发明的一个实施例：将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至B261型梳绒机中，将道夫转速调整到10～12r/min，将刺辊转速调整到28r/min，将斩刀次数调整到450次/min，B261型梳绒机将弹力双面布表面进行梳绒。
作为本发明的一个实施例：再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，对弹力双面布进行剪毛处理具体加工步骤如下：将胚布输送至ME503C型单刀剪毛机中，将门幅调整至1900～2000mm，进步速度调整至10～30m/min，螺旋刀直径调整至180mm，刀片数设置为24，转速调整至250～1200r/min，ME503C型单刀剪毛机将弹力双面布表面毛圈剪断剪齐。
作为本发明的一个实施例：将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，对弹力双面布进行整烫处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布至YP型整烫机中，将进料转速调整至7～19r/min，蒸汽压力调整至0.4～0.6MPa，YP型整烫机将弹力双面布进行整烫。
作为本发明的一个实施例：再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，制成胚布步骤如下：将一层羊毛胚布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布覆盖到这一层羊毛胚布上端面，实现粘结，然后再将绒布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布上端面覆盖上另一层羊毛胚布，实现粘结，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布。
作为本发明的一个实施例：再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料具体加工步骤如下：将粘结后的胚布输送至MONTEX-6000拉幅定型机中，将拉幅定型温度调整至180℃～190℃，风速调整至1400转～1700转，并依次添加2%～4%柔软剂、3%～5%平滑剂以及1%～1.5%抗静电剂。
作为本发明的一个实施例：最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库具体加工步骤如下：将成品面料放置在检验台上，对成品面料上的断丝、破洞、横杠、坏边、纬斜、脏污、拉毛以及剃毛进行检验，如无以上缺陷，将合格成品面料打包入库。
以上显示和描述了本发明的基本原理和主要特征和本发明的优点,对于本领域技术人员而言，显然本发明不限于上述示范性实施例的细节，而且在不背离本发明的精神或基本特征的情况下，能够以其他的具体形式实现本发明。因此，无论从哪一点来看，均应将实施例看作是示范性的，而且是非限制性的，本发明的范围由所附权利要求而不是上述说明限定，因此旨在将落在权利要求的等同要件的含义和范围内的所有变化囊括在本发明内。
此外，应当理解，虽然本说明书按照实施方式加以描述，但并非每个实施方式仅包含一个独立的技术方案，说明书的这种叙述方式仅仅是为清楚起见，本领域技术人员应当将说明书作为一个整体，各实施例中的技术方案也可以经适当组合，形成本领域技术人员可以理解的其他实施方式。

Claims (9)

1.一种透气保暖羊毛面料，包括表层和接触层，其特征在于：所述表层由30%羊毛以及70%腈纶纤维组成，所述接触层由95%聚酯纤维以及5%氨纶组成；
一种透气保暖羊毛面料由以下步骤制成：
首先将羊毛以及腈纶纤维混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织，形成提花透气、蓬松挺括的羊毛胚布，羊毛胚布的厚度为0.5～1mm；
同时将聚酯纤维以及氨纶混纺成经纱以及纬纱，然后将经纱与纬纱在织布机上根据一定的规律勾织形成的弹力双面布；
再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理；
将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，进行梳绒处理；
再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，进行剪毛处理；
将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，进行整烫处理，制成绒布，绒布的厚度为2～3mm；
再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布；
再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料；
最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述表层纱线为毛纺工艺，织造为针织纬编工艺，是毛纺与针织的完美结合，是针织界的一大创新，将毛纺品做出针织工艺的布面效果。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述再将弹力双面布输送到双辊全自动起毛机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机中，将两个针辊间的距离调整至3～5mm，并将逆针辊速度比零点速度低1～2r/rain，顺针辊速度比零点速度高5～6r/rain，PT-800A型双辊全自动起毛机将弹力双面布表面进行起绒。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述将抓毛后的弹力双面布输送至梳绒机中，对弹力双面布进行起绒处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布输送至B261型梳绒机中，将道夫转速调整到10～12r/min，将刺辊转速调整到28r/min，将斩刀次数调整到450次/min，B261型梳绒机将弹力双面布表面进行梳绒。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述再将梳绒后的弹力双面布输送至单刀剪毛机中，对弹力双面布进行剪毛处理具体加工步骤如下：将胚布输送至ME503C型单刀剪毛机中，将门幅调整至1900～2000mm，进步速度调整至10～30m/min，螺旋刀直径调整至180mm，刀片数设置为24，转速调整至250～1200r/min，ME503C型单刀剪毛机将弹力双面布表面毛圈剪断剪齐。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述将剪毛后的弹力双面布输送至高温整烫机中，对弹力双面布进行整烫处理具体加工步骤如下：将弹力双面布至YP型整烫机中，将进料转速调整至7～19r/min，蒸汽压力调整至0.4～0.6MPa，YP型整烫机将弹力双面布进行整烫。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述再将羊毛胚布与绒布通过粘合的方式粘结在一起，制成胚布步骤如下：将一层羊毛胚布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布覆盖到这一层羊毛胚布上端面，实现粘结，然后再将绒布上端刷上粘合剂，再将绒布上端面覆盖上另一层羊毛胚布，实现粘结，进而实现羊毛层覆盖在接触层的外表面，制成胚布。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述再将胚布进行拉幅定型处理，制成成品面料具体加工步骤如下：将粘结后的胚布输送至MONTEX-6000拉幅定型机中，将拉幅定型温度调整至180℃～190℃，风速调整至1400转～1700转，并依次添加2%～4%柔软剂、3%～5%平滑剂以及1%～1.5%抗静电剂。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气保暖羊毛面料，其特征在于：所述最后将成品面料进行检验，检验合格后入库具体加工步骤如下：将成品面料放置在检验台上，对成品面料上的断丝、破洞、横杠、坏边、纬斜、脏污、拉毛以及剃毛进行检验，如无以上缺陷，将合格成品面料打包入库。
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