CN109223600A - 一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN109223600A CN109223600A CN201811258302.3A CN201811258302A CN109223600A CN 109223600 A CN109223600 A CN 109223600A CN 201811258302 A CN201811258302 A CN 201811258302A CN 109223600 A CN109223600 A CN 109223600A
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- microemulsion
- xylitol
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，采用3‑o‑乙基抗坏血酸、生育酚、烟酰胺、泛醇和氰钴胺多种维生素协同作用，清除自由基、阻断黑色素释放并加速黑色素代谢，从而实现深度美白，有效改善黑色素沉积问题。同时，本发明加入了用于将维生素微乳化的微乳化液，使维生素更容易吸收，从而更好地作用在皮肤上起到美白祛斑的效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液及其制备方法。
背景技术
美白、祛斑是许多女性一生矢志不渝的追求，有“一白遮百丑”之说，市面上美白产品虽然很多，但大多没有明显的实际美白效果，有些很快见效但是对皮肤会造成伤害，安全性得不到保障，而采用纯植物配方制备的美白护肤品效果甚微，且效用缓慢，所以，在安全的前提下，研究效果好的美白产品非常重要。
随着年龄的增大，人的皮肤也经历众多的变化。其中一些变化发生在血管体系中。光老化也会造成皮肤的变化，使血管变得脆弱、破裂，从而变成死亡的末梢。这就导致诸如蜘蛛血管、红斑痤疮、黑眼圈和容易出现瘀青等皮肤问题。维生素能帮助解决这些问题。
维生素是人体六大营养素之一，不同的维生素有不同的作用，用在护肤品中产生不同护肤效果，由于维生素不稳定性，遇到光、氧、热等容易被破坏，如果没有一定技术保障，活性会失去50%甚至更高，使得维生素在护肤品中的应用不多，或者用后效果不理想，怎样使维生素稳定、容易吸收、起到美白祛斑效果是将维生素应用于美白护肤品中时急需解决的问题。
市场上的美白祛斑产品，有采用Vc的，也有用Vb3的，但同时用Vc和Vb3的甚至更多种维生素协同作用的比较少见，经过常年考察市场上单用某一种维生素的美白祛斑产品，其美白效果非常不理想。
发明内容
针对背景技术中存在的不足，本发明提供了一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液及其制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用的技术方案如下，一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，含有以下重量份的组分：生育酚1~5份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份、泛醇1~5份和氰钴胺1~5份。
作为本发明所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液的优选实施方式，所述含多种维生素的美白微乳液含有以下重量份的组分：生育酚2~4份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2~4份、烟酰胺2~4份、泛醇2~4份和氰钴胺2~4份。
进一步的，所述的美白微乳液分为A相、B相和C相，其中按重量份计：A相含有生育酚1~5份，水30~50份；B相含有3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份和泛醇1~5份；C相含有氰钴胺1~5份。
进一步的，所述A相还含有以下重量份的组分：1,3-丙二醇1~15份、异壬酸异壬酯1~5份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯1~5份、脱水木糖醇0.1~1份、双丙甘醇0.1~1份、PCA钠0.1~1份、红没药醇0.1~1份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.01~0.1份、丁二醇0.01~0.1份和乙基己基甘油0.01~0.1份。
进一步的，所述B相还含有以下重量份的组分：角鲨烷1~5份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.1~1份、木糖醇0.1~1份、苯氧乙醇0.1~1份、β-葡聚糖0.01~0.1份、棕榈酸0.01~0.1份、EDTA二钠0.01~0.1份、香精0.01~0.1份、羟苯甲酯0~0.001份和羟苯丙酯0~0.001份。
进一步的，所述C相还含有以下重量份的组分：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5份、氰钴胺1~5份、甘油0.1~1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.1~1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.1~1份、尿囊素0.1~1份、白睡莲花提取物0.01~0.1份和高山火绒草提取物0.01~0.1份。
作为本发明所述的另一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液的优选实施方式，含有以下成分，按重量份计：
A相：1,3-丙二醇1~15份、异壬酸异壬酯1~5份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯1~5份、生育酚1~5份、脱水木糖醇0.1~1份、双丙甘醇0.1~1份、PCA钠0.1~1份、红没药醇0.1~1份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.01~0.1份、丁二醇0.01~0.1份、乙基己基甘油0.01~0.1份和水30~50份；
B相：角鲨烷1~5份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份、泛醇1~5份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.1~1份、木糖醇0.1~1份、苯氧乙醇0.1~1份、β-葡聚糖0.01~0.1份、棕榈酸0.01~0.1份、EDTA二钠0.01~0.1份、香精0.01~0.1份、羟苯甲酯0~0.001份和羟苯丙酯0~0.001份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5份、氰钴胺1~5份、甘油0.1~1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.1~1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.1~1份、尿囊素0.1~1份、白睡莲花提取物0.01~0.1份和高山火绒草提取物0.01~0.1份。
所述含多种维生素的美白微乳液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
（1）将乳化锅加热至75℃，然后将A相原料按配比投入，搅拌混合，混匀后保温20分钟备用；
（2）将B相原料按配比称入油相锅，加热至75℃至熔化均匀；
（3）将步骤（2）的B相原料抽入乳化锅中，抽真空，均质6分钟，边搅拌边降温至45℃，加入C相原料，继续搅拌冷却至40℃，边轻微搅拌边加入微乳化液，搅拌均匀，加入多重双层膜脂质体，搅拌均匀，检验合格后出料。
黑色素增多的原因很多，各种原因造成自由基增多，造成酪氨酸酶活性增高，使酪酸加快氧化成多巴，在酪氨酸酶的作用下多巴氧化成多巴醌生成多巴色素，多巴色素经过生成黑色素，黑色素增多代谢不了，皮肤变黑，在局部代谢不了形成色斑。
针对黑色素累积原理，美白祛斑必须从几个方面同时入手，效果才好：第一、抗氧化，清除自由基，不使自由基刺激皮肤，就不会生成过多黑色素；第二、如果黑色素已经生成了，则需要阻断黑色素的释放；第三、如果黑色素已生成了，也释放出来了，则需要使其快速代谢出去。基于上述原理，本发明采用3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、生育酚、烟酰胺、泛醇和氰钴胺多种不同维生素从不同角度协同作用，深度美白，改善黑色素沉积问题。
本发明中采用的3-o-乙基抗坏血酸，又称Vc乙基醚，是维生素C的一种衍生物，能抑制酪氨酸酶的生成，从而抑制黑色素的产生，具有美白祛斑的功效，渗透性好，能稳定地存在，并被皮肤吸收。
本发明中采用的生育酚，为维生素E的水解产物，有很好的抗氧化效果，是一种油溶性的天然物质，对肌肤是很好的营养滋润剂，能够避免油脂的酸败氧化，安定油脂。在保湿和维持结缔组织，以及保护皮肤不受紫外线伤害都有很好表现，该成分能使肌肤触感柔软并保持肌肤水分，促进伤口愈合、预防发炎防止肌肤粗糙皲裂、改善黑斑，且安全指数高。
本发明中采用的烟酰胺，是维生素B3的一种衍生物，除了传统的美白效果之外，也被用于减少已经生成、沉淀的黑色素，阻隔其向表层细胞的转移，加速细胞新陈代谢、加快黑色素角质细胞脱落等。烟酰胺能够维持肌肤含水量，促进真皮层微循环。烟酰胺还能极大减少或消除皮肤老化现象，比如皱纹、起皮、毛孔粗大等，减少自由基对皮肤的伤害，起到预防老化、修复皮肤和减少面部暗沉的作用。
本发明中采用的泛醇，又称维生素原B5，是一种维生素前体，其能够通过促进辅酶A的合成，从而起到肌肤保湿及修复的作用。泛醇和烟酰胺共同作用可以改善肌肤老化，如过度色素沉淀的问题。
本发明中采用的氰钴胺，即维生素B12，可以强化皮肤的毛细血管和减轻炎症，改善因炎症导致的皮肤早衰。维生素B12被称为造血维生素，具有肌肤再生的优越效果，是促进人体肌肤新陈代谢的重要成分。
有益效果：
（1）本发明采用3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、生育酚、烟酰胺、泛醇和氰钴胺多种维生素协同作用，清除自由基、阻断黑色素释放并加速黑色素代谢，从而实现深度美白，有效改善黑色素沉积问题；
（2）本发明加入了用于将维生素微乳化的微乳化液，原料的油水相能自发性重新乳化回到平衡状态，微乳化能最大化料体与肌肤表面的接触面积，同时使料体更均匀地覆盖在肌肤表面，细小的微乳小球在平衡状态下，承载着功效成分迅速渗透，使维生素更容易吸收，从而更好地作用在皮肤上起到美白祛斑的效果；
（3）本发明加入多重双层膜脂质体包裹维生素，使脂溶性和水溶性维生素均被包裹在脂质体内，脂质体外层的亲水性包裹物与膏霜、乳液完全相容，因而可以很容易地添加到护肤品中，并且多重双层膜脂质体本身的结构特性使得脂质体能稳定在化妆品乳液中稳定地存在，从而使维生素的稳定性更好，解决了维生素在化妆品应用中遇到光、氧、热等容易被破坏的问题；
（4）本发明还采用多种具有保湿功效（如1,3-丙二醇、甘油、木糖醇基葡糖苷、木糖醇、PCA钠等）和抗炎调理功效（如脱水木糖醇、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠、红没药醇、尿囊素、白睡莲花提取物等）的成分，减少由于炎症、缺水和衰老引起的色素沉积，帮助皮肤抵抗外界刺激。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述， 显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实 施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造 性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例1
一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，含有以下重量份的组分：
A相：1,3-丙二醇15份、异壬酸异壬酯3份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯1份、生育酚5份、脱水木糖醇0.5份、双丙甘醇0.1份、PCA钠1份、红没药醇0.5份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.01份、丁二醇0.1份、乙基己基甘油0.05份和水30份；
B相：角鲨烷5份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸3份、烟酰胺1份、泛醇5份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.5份、木糖醇0.1份、苯氧乙醇1份、β-葡聚糖0.05份、棕榈酸0.01份、EDTA二钠0.1份、香精0.05份、羟苯甲酯0份和羟苯丙酯0.001份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷5份、氰钴胺3份、甘油0.1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.5份、尿囊素0.1份、白睡莲花提取物0.1份和高山火绒草提取物0.05份。
所述含多种维生素的美白微乳液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
（1）将乳化锅加热至75℃，然后将A相原料按配比投入，搅拌混合，混匀后保温20分钟备用；
（2）将B相原料按配比称入油相锅，加热至75℃至熔化均匀；
（3）将步骤（2）的B相原料抽入乳化锅中，抽真空，均质6分钟，边搅拌边降温至45℃，加入C相原料，继续搅拌冷却至40℃，边轻微搅拌边加入微乳化液，搅拌均匀，加入多重双层膜脂质体，搅拌均匀，检验合格后出料。
实施例2
一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，含有以下重量份的组分：
A相：1,3-丙二醇8份、异壬酸异壬酯1份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯5份、生育酚3份、脱水木糖醇0.1份、双丙甘醇1份、PCA钠0.5份、红没药醇0.1份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.1份、丁二醇0.05份、乙基己基甘油0.01份和水50份；
B相：角鲨烷3份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1份、烟酰胺5份、泛醇3份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.1份、木糖醇1份、苯氧乙醇0.5份、β-葡聚糖0.01份、棕榈酸0.1份、EDTA二钠0.05份、香精0.01份、羟苯甲酯0.001份和羟苯丙酯0.0005份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷3份、氰钴胺1份、甘油1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.5份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.1份、尿囊素1份、白睡莲花提取物0.05份和高山火绒草提取物0.01份。
制备方法与实施例1相同。
实施例3
一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，含有以下重量份的组分：
A相：1,3-丙二醇1份、异壬酸异壬酯5份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯3份、生育酚1份、脱水木糖醇1份、双丙甘醇0.5份、PCA钠0.1份、红没药醇1份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.05份、丁二醇0.01份、乙基己基甘油0.1份和水40份；
B相：角鲨烷1份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸5份、烟酰胺3份、泛醇1份、木糖醇基葡糖苷1份、木糖醇0.5份、苯氧乙醇0.1份、β-葡聚糖0.1份、棕榈酸0.05份、EDTA二钠0.01份、香精0.1份、羟苯甲酯0.0005份和羟苯丙酯0份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷1份、氰钴胺5份、甘油0.5份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠1份、尿囊素0.5份、白睡莲花提取物0.01份和高山火绒草提取物0.1份。
制备方法与实施例1相同。
实施例4
一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，含有以下重量份的组分：
A相：1,3-丙二醇8份、异壬酸异壬酯3份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯3份、生育酚3份、脱水木糖醇0.5份、双丙甘醇0.5份、PCA钠0.5份、红没药醇0.5份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.05份、丁二醇0.05份、乙基己基甘油0.05份和水40份；
B相：角鲨烷3份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸3份、烟酰胺3份、泛醇3份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.5份、木糖醇0.5份、苯氧乙醇0.5份、β-葡聚糖0.05份、棕榈酸0.05份、EDTA二钠0.05份、香精0.05份、羟苯甲酯0.0005份和羟苯丙酯0.0005份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷3份、氰钴胺3份、甘油0.5份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.5份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.5份、尿囊素0.5份、白睡莲花提取物0.05份和高山火绒草提取物0.05份。
制备方法与实施例1相同。
产品效果评价实验
实验品: 按实施例1-4和对比例1、2所制备的美白乳液。
对比例1：美白乳液中含有生育酚0份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸3份、烟酰胺3份、泛醇0份和氰钴胺0份，其他成分配比与实施例4相同，制备方法采用普通乳化工艺。
对比例2：美白乳液中含有生育酚3份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸0份、烟酰胺0份、泛醇3份和氰钴胺0份，其他成分配比和制备方法与实施例4相同。
实验对象：40~45岁皮肤暗沉且面部长斑的女性，6组，每组30人。
测试方法：按分组分别使用实施例1-4和对比例1、2所制备的美白乳液，观察和感受使用效果。使用方法：洁面爽肤之后，取适量美白乳液于四指指腹匀开，然后从脸颊干燥处开始轻拍于全脸及颈部肌肤，每日早上使用一次，持续使用1个月，观察并记录美白效果和祛斑效果，并对实验第一天和最后一天的面部进行拍照佐证。
评价标准：效果明显，一般，无效。
本发明实施例1-4及对比例1、2的组分及配比如下：
测试结果如下：
从上表可以看出，本发明的含多种维生素的美白微乳液相比于对比例1、2采用两种维生素的美白效果和祛斑效果好很多，从而可见，本发明采用3-o-乙基抗坏血酸、生育酚、烟酰胺、泛醇和氰钴胺多种维生素从不同角度协同作用，深度美白，更有效地改善黑色素沉积问题。
另外，对比例1采用普通乳化工艺，对比例2采用了与本发明实施例1-4相同的用于维生素的微乳化技术，结果显示经过普通乳化过程制备的美白乳液的美白效果和祛斑效果明显低于对比例2和本发明实施例1-4所制备的美白微乳液，说明微乳化能最大化料体与肌肤表面的接触面积，使料体更均匀地覆盖在肌肤表面，细小的微乳小球在平衡状态下，承载着功效成分迅速渗透，使维生素更容易吸收，从而更好地作用在皮肤上起到美白祛斑的效果。
最后应说明的是，以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已，并不用于限制本发明，尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，对于本领域的技术人员来说，其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (8)
1.一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，含有以下重量份的组分：生育酚1~5份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份、泛醇1~5份和氰钴胺1~5份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，含有以下重量份的组分：生育酚2~4份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸2~4份、烟酰胺2~4份、泛醇2~4份和氰钴胺2~4份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，所述的美白微乳液分为A相、B相和C相，其中按重量份计：A相含有生育酚1~5份，水30~50份；B相含有3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份和泛醇1~5份；C相含有氰钴胺1~5份。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，所述A相还含有以下重量份的组分：1,3-丙二醇1~15份、异壬酸异壬酯1~5份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯1~5份、脱水木糖醇0.1~1份、双丙甘醇0.1~1份、PCA钠0.1~1份、红没药醇0.1~1份、聚山梨醇酯-600.01~0.1份、丁二醇0.01~0.1份和乙基己基甘油0.01~0.1份。
5.根据权利要求3所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，所述B相还含有以下重量份的组分：角鲨烷1~5份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.1~1份、木糖醇0.1~1份、苯氧乙醇0.1~1份、β-葡聚糖0.01~0.1份、棕榈酸0.01~0.1份、EDTA二钠0.01~0.1份、香精0.01~0.1份、羟苯甲酯0~0.001份和羟苯丙酯0~0.001份。
6.根据权利要求3所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，所述C相还含有以下重量份的组分：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5份、氰钴胺1~5份、甘油0.1~1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.1~1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.1~1份、尿囊素0.1~1份、白睡莲花提取物0.01~0.1份和高山火绒草提取物0.01~0.1份。
7.根据权利要求3所述的一种含多种维生素的美白微乳液，其特征在于，含有以下成分，按重量份计：
A相：1,3-丙二醇1~15份、异壬酸异壬酯1~5份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯1~5份、生育酚1~5份、脱水木糖醇0.1~1份、双丙甘醇0.1~1份、PCA钠0.1~1份、红没药醇0.1~1份、聚山梨醇酯-60 0.01~0.1份、丁二醇0.01~0.1份、乙基己基甘油0.01~0.1份和水30~50份；
B相：角鲨烷1~5份、3-o-乙基抗坏血酸1~5份、烟酰胺1~5份、泛醇1~5份、木糖醇基葡糖苷0.1~1份、木糖醇0.1~1份、苯氧乙醇0.1~1份、β-葡聚糖0.01~0.1份、棕榈酸0.01~0.1份、EDTA二钠0.01~0.1份、香精0.01~0.1份、羟苯甲酯0~0.001份和羟苯丙酯0~0.001份；
C相：环五聚二甲基硅氧烷1~5份、氰钴胺1~5份、甘油0.1~1份、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物0.1~1份、棕榈酰脯氨酸钠0.1~1份、尿囊素0.1~1份、白睡莲花提取物0.01~0.1份和高山火绒草提取物0.01~0.1份。
8.一种根据权利要求7所述含多种维生素的美白微乳液的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
（1）将乳化锅加热至75℃，然后将A相原料按配比投入，搅拌混合，混匀后保温20分钟备用；
（2）将B相原料按配比称入油相锅，加热至75℃至熔化均匀；
（3）将步骤（2）的B相原料抽入乳化锅中，抽真空，均质6分钟，边搅拌边降温至45℃，加入C相原料，继续搅拌冷却至40℃，边轻微搅拌边加入微乳化液，搅拌均匀，加入多重双层膜脂质体，搅拌均匀，检验合格后出料。
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| CN111991251A (zh) * | 2020-09-09 | 2020-11-27 | 高宝化妆品（中国）有限公司 | 一种补水棒及其制备方法 |
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| WO2023141804A1 (en) * | 2022-01-26 | 2023-08-03 | L'oreal | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
| FR3133012A1 (fr) * | 2022-01-26 | 2023-09-01 | L'oreal | composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir les matières kératineuses |
| CN114712288A (zh) * | 2022-04-29 | 2022-07-08 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | 美白保湿精华霜 |
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Application publication date: 20190118 |