WO2023141804A1 - Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials - Google Patents
Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023141804A1 WO2023141804A1 PCT/CN2022/073953 CN2022073953W WO2023141804A1 WO 2023141804 A1 WO2023141804 A1 WO 2023141804A1 CN 2022073953 W CN2022073953 W CN 2022073953W WO 2023141804 A1 WO2023141804 A1 WO 2023141804A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- total weight
- tocopheryl
- relative
- alkyl
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 104
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000005282 brightening Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
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- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
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- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
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- 125000000304 alkynyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
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- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 20
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- OSGAYBCDTDRGGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium sulfate Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O OSGAYBCDTDRGGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 14
- 229910052582 BN Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 12
- PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Boron nitride Chemical group N#B PZNSFCLAULLKQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- OFUHPGMOWVHNPN-QWZFGMNQSA-N [(2r)-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-[(4r,8r)-4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl]-3,4-dihydrochromen-6-yl] (9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoate Chemical compound O1[C@](C)(CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CCC2=C(C)C(OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC)=C(C)C(C)=C21 OFUHPGMOWVHNPN-QWZFGMNQSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- BTNBMQIHCRIGOU-UHFFFAOYSA-N delta-tocotrienol Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCOC1(C)CCc2cc(O)cc(C)c2O1)C)C)C BTNBMQIHCRIGOU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001627 detrimental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioctyl carbonate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)OCCCCCCCC PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019301 disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FGYKUFVNYVMTAM-MUUNZHRXSA-N epsilon-Tocopherol Natural products OC1=CC(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C FGYKUFVNYVMTAM-MUUNZHRXSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003935 flavonoid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002215 flavonoids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000017173 flavonoids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000001153 fluoro group Chemical group F* 0.000 description 1
- OTXNTMVVOOBZCV-YMCDKREISA-N gamma-Tocotrienol Natural products Oc1c(C)c(C)c2O[C@@](CC/C=C(\CC/C=C(\CC/C=C(\C)/C)/C)/C)(C)CCc2c1 OTXNTMVVOOBZCV-YMCDKREISA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940074052 glyceryl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-7-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229960003258 hexylresorcinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940049918 linoleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000002780 melanosome Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000003658 microfiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 235000001968 nicotinic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011664 nicotinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000003463 organelle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- PXQPEWDEAKTCGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N orotic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC(=O)NC(=O)N1 PXQPEWDEAKTCGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011192 particle characterization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940106025 phenylethyl resorcinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 125000004437 phosphorous atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010486 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940068977 polysorbate 20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910010271 silicon carbide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon monoxide Inorganic materials [Si-]#[O+] LIVNPJMFVYWSIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012798 spherical particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001370 static light scattering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004274 stearic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L succinate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CCC([O-])=O KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- AVWRKZWQTYIKIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea-1-carboxylic acid Chemical compound NC(=O)NC(O)=O AVWRKZWQTYIKIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- RZFHLOLGZPDCHJ-XZXLULOTSA-N α-Tocotrienol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CC/C=C(C)/CC/C=C(C)/CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C RZFHLOLGZPDCHJ-XZXLULOTSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019145 α-tocotrienol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011730 α-tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019151 β-tocotrienol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011723 β-tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- FGYKUFVNYVMTAM-WAZJVIJMSA-N β-tocotrienol Chemical compound OC1=CC(C)=C2O[C@@](CC/C=C(C)/CC/C=C(C)/CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C FGYKUFVNYVMTAM-WAZJVIJMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019150 γ-tocotrienol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011722 γ-tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- OTXNTMVVOOBZCV-WAZJVIJMSA-N γ-tocotrienol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CC/C=C(C)/CC/C=C(C)/CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 OTXNTMVVOOBZCV-WAZJVIJMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019144 δ-tocotrienol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011729 δ-tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- ODADKLYLWWCHNB-LDYBVBFYSA-N δ-tocotrienol Chemical compound OC1=CC(C)=C2O[C@@](CC/C=C(C)/CC/C=C(C)/CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 ODADKLYLWWCHNB-LDYBVBFYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
- the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.
- WO2021014057A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening the skin, mucous membranes, human body and/or head hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin, comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione.
- compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
- O/W oil-in-water
- W/O water-in-oil
- O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
- composition can provide a long-term brightening or whitening of keratin materials.
- the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials comprising:
- R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 acyl carbonyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl; R 2 is selected from C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl.
- composition according to the present invention has improved brightening or whitening effect to keratin materials, in particular human skin.
- the “brightening and whitening effect” refers to both instant and long-term brightening or whitening of keratin materials.
- the present invention relates to a mask for brightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising:
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
- keratin material is intended to cover human skin. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
- composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials comprises:
- R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 acyl carbonyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl; R 2 is selected from C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one mineral white pigment.
- white is intended to mean the pigment having the colour white and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, etc. ) , as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.
- the mineral pigment is in the form of particles.
- the white pigment have a lightness value L*close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.
- the white pigment are characterized by 0.3 ⁇ m ⁇ D50 ⁇ 40 ⁇ m.
- the volume average size (D50) is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50%of the sample volume exists (see in “A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization” , page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012) .
- the volume average size (D50) of the particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern.
- the data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory.
- This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
- the white pigment according to the present invention has a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution capacity of the eye. Since said capacity is around 40 ⁇ m, particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 40 ⁇ m, preferably less than 25 ⁇ m and even better still less than or equal to 6 ⁇ m are therefore considered. However, it is ensured that particles of which the D50 is greater than 0.3 ⁇ m and preferentially 0.5 ⁇ m are taken, so as not to have too great a loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect.
- D50 volume average size
- composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least mineral white pigment having a volume size (D50) of less than 40 ⁇ m, preferably between 0.3 and 25 ⁇ m and better still between 0.3 and 6 ⁇ m, or even between 0.5 and 3 ⁇ m.
- D50 volume size
- These pigment may be made of one material or else be composites.
- these pigment may be selected from boron nitride, silica, pearl, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based pearl pigment, composite comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.
- the mineral white pigment is boron nitride.
- the mineral white pigment is composite comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.
- the mineral white pigment is composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.
- the white pigment is advantageously boron nitride particles, preferentially having a volume average size of from 0.3 to 6 ⁇ m.
- the white pigment according to the present invention has an average refractive index of between 1.4 and 2.2. This is because, if the pigment has a refractive index above 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if this index is below 1.4, the lightening effect is not sufficient.
- the average refractive index is defined as being the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particle.
- composites mention may, for example, be made of platelets of mica (60%) covered with TiO 2 (40%) , with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6x1.5+0.4x2.5) ; inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in a matrix of alumina (60%) , with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6x1.6+0.4x2.5) .
- mineral white pigments By way of example of mineral white pigments, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.
- boron nitride particles having a volume average size D50 of less than 6 ⁇ m such as the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume average size of 3 ⁇ m.
- the mineral white pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Vitamin E and its derivative
- the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5 wt. %of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Vitamin E includes tocopherols and tocotrienols:
- vitamin E includes:
- vitamin E derivatives mention can be made of pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, benzoate, propionate, sorbate, oleate, orotate, linoleate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, and phosphate.
- pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, benzoate, propionate, sorbate, oleate, orotate, linoleate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, and phosphate.
- the vitamin E and/or vitamin E derivative is selected from ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl benzoate, tocopheryl propionate, tocopheryl sorbate, tocopheryl oleate, tocopheryl orotate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, and mixtures thereof.
- composition according to the present invention comprises vitamin E.
- composition according to the present invention comprises ⁇ -tocopherol.
- the total content of vitamin E and its derivative is from 0.8 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5 wt. %of a compound of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition:
- R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 acyl carbonyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl;
- R 2 is selected from C 1 -C 20 alkyl, C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and C 2 -C 20 alkynyl.
- R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
- R 2 is a C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
- R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
- R 2 is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
- R 1 and R 3 are hydrogen.
- R 2 is methyl or ethyl.
- R 1 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl carbonyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl carbonyl, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, C 3 -C 6 alkynyl; R 2 is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl, and C 2 -C 6 alkenyl.
- R 1 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 1 -C 4 , linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl group, linear or branched C 3 -C 4 alkynyl group;
- R 2 is selected from linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl group.
- R 1 and R 3 is hydrogen, R 2 is ethyl.
- the compound of formula (I) is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
- the compound of formula (I) is commercially available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
- the compound of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of vitamin E and its derivative, as well as the compound of formula (I) is at least 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
- polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
- the aqueous phase comprises water and glycerin.
- the aqueous phase may represent in amount ranging from 30 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 97 wt. %, more preferably from 60 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
- the nature of the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention is not critical.
- the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
- oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
- the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
- volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
- the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
- non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
- the oil that is suitable for the present invention are not limited, it may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
- silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
- fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
- hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
- the oily phase may present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %and more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention can comprises one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
- composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , flim-forming agents (for example, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer) , fillers, thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) , pH regulators (for example citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
- fragrances for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenes
- the present invention provides a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
- the composition of the present invention is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, for example in the form of a lotion, cream, gel or liquid foundation and they are prepared according to the conventional methods in the cosmetic field.
- the composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble substrate to form a mask.
- water insoluble means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
- composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for brightening or whitening keratin materials, and especially human skin.
- composition according to the present invention can used in a mask.
- composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble substrate to form a mask.
- the present invention relates to a mask for brightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising:
- water insoluble means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
- the skilled in the art can choose a suitable substrate and the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
- Substrates used made of polyamide (PA) , with a thickness of 0.18-0.28 mm, available under the tradename MF-30 from the company Sanjiang Microfiber Nonwoven.
- compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :
- composition was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.
- prefabrication phase A prefabrication phase B and prefabrication phase C were prepared.
- Prefabrication phase A glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, dicaprylyl carbonate, hexyldecanol, phenylethyl resorcinol, octyldodecanol, and glycerin were heated to 75°C and mixed by stirring, then butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and glyceryl isostearate were added at 75°C and mixed by stirring for 5 minutes.
- Prefabrication phase B boron nitride, polysorbate 20, and water (3.9 wt. %of the total weight of water) were mixed by stirring for 15 minutes at room temperature.
- Prefabrication phase C water (2 wt. %of the total weight of water) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid were mixed by stirring for 10 minutes at room temperature.
- Masks were prepared by filling a substrate with the obtained compositions, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1: 22.
- the score was given from 1 to 5 according to the following standard: 1 represents no whitening effect and 5 represents the strongest whitening effect.
- compositions according to invention examples 1 and 2 can provide an improved whitening effect, in addition, the whitening effect does not change substantially after at least for 6 hours.
Abstract
It relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials comprising: (i) at least one mineral pigment; (ii) at least 0.8 wt.% of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least 0.5 wt. % of a compound of formula (I), relative to the total weight of the composition: wherein, R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C 1-C 20 acyl carbonyl, C 2-C 20alkenyl carbonyl, C 1-C 20alkyl, C 2-C 20 alkenyl and C 2-C 20 alkynyl; R 2 is selected from C 1-C 20 alkyl, C 2-C 20 alkenyl and C 2-C 20 alkynyl. It also relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular the human skin.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.
BACKGROUND ART
Human skin colour depends on various factors, and in particular on the seasons of the year, on race and on gender; it is mainly determined by the nature and the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells which synthesize melanin by means of specific organelles, melanosomes. In addition, at various times in their life, certain individuals experience the appearance of dark and/or coloured spots on the skin and more especially on the hands, which give the skin heterogeneity.
The skilled in the art are making efforts to develop products for brightening, whitening or lightening skin.
For example, WO2021014057A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening the skin, mucous membranes, human body and/or head hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin, comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione.
For various reasons associated in particular with greater comfort of use (softness, emollience and the like) , current compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
However, due to their natural feature, many commercial products are not totally satisfying, in particular in terms of long-term brightening or whitening of the skin.
Thus, there is a need to formulate a composition can provide a long-term brightening or whitening of keratin materials.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.
Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials comprising:
(i) at least one mineral white pigment;
(ii) at least 0.8 wt. %of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(iii) at least 0.5 wt. %of a compound of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition:
wherein, R
1 and R
3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C
1-C
20 acyl carbonyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl carbonyl, C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl; R
2 is selected from C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl.
The composition according to the present invention has improved brightening or whitening effect to keratin materials, in particular human skin.
In particular, the “brightening and whitening effect” according to the present invention refers to both instant and long-term brightening or whitening of keratin materials.
By “long term” , it means the brightening or whitening effect can last for at least 6 hours.
According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a mask for brightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate, and
B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the substrate.
According to still another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .
As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
The composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:
(i) at least one mineral white pigment;
(ii) at least 0.8 wt. %of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(iii) at least 0.5 wt. %of a compound of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition:
wherein, R
1 and R
3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C
1-C
20 acyl carbonyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl carbonyl, C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl; R
2 is selected from C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl.
Mineral White Pigment
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one mineral white pigment.
The term "white" is intended to mean the pigment having the colour white and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, etc. ) , as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.
Preferably, the mineral pigment is in the form of particles.
In particular, the white pigment have a lightness value L*close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.
Preferably, the white pigment are characterized by 0.3μm<D50<40μm.
The volume average size (D50) is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50%of the sample volume exists (see in “A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization” , page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012) .
The volume average size (D50) of the particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
The white pigment according to the present invention has a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution capacity of the eye. Since said capacity is around 40 μm, particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 40μm, preferably less than 25μm and even better still less than or equal to 6μm are therefore considered. However, it is ensured that particles of which the D50 is greater than 0.3μm and preferentially 0.5 μm are taken, so as not to have too great a loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect.
Thus, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least mineral white pigment having a volume size (D50) of less than 40μm, preferably between 0.3 and 25μm and better still between 0.3 and 6μm, or even between 0.5 and 3μm.
These pigment may be made of one material or else be composites. For example, these pigment may be selected from boron nitride, silica, pearl, mica, synthetic mica, mica-based pearl pigment, composite comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the mineral white pigment is boron nitride.
According to another embodiment, the mineral white pigment is composite comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.
According to another embodiment, the mineral white pigment is composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.
The white pigment is advantageously boron nitride particles, preferentially having a volume average size of from 0.3 to 6μm.
Preferably, the white pigment according to the present invention has an average refractive index of between 1.4 and 2.2. This is because, if the pigment has a refractive index above 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if this index is below 1.4, the lightening effect is not sufficient. The average refractive index is defined as being the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particle.
As examples of composites, mention may, for example, be made of platelets of mica (60%) covered with TiO
2 (40%) , with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6x1.5+0.4x2.5) ; inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in a matrix of alumina (60%) , with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6x1.6+0.4x2.5) .
The refractive indices of some material are listed below:
Mica | 1.4-1.7 |
Bismuth oxychloride | 2.15 |
Fe 3O 4 | 2.4 |
TiO 2 (anatase) | 2.5 |
TiO 2 (rutile) | 2.7 |
Boron nitride | 1.74 |
Alumina (amorphous) | 1.6 |
By way of example of mineral white pigments, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of boron nitride particles having a volume average size D50 of less than 6μm, such as the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume average size of 3μm.
Advantageously, the mineral white pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Vitamin E and its derivative
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5 wt. %of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Vitamin E includes tocopherols and tocotrienols:
In particular, vitamin E includes:
α-tocopherol
β-tocopherol
γ-tocopherol
δ-tocopherol
α-tocotrienol
β-tocotrienol
γ-tocotrienol
δ-tocotrienol
As examples of vitamin E derivatives, mention can be made of pharmaceutically acceptable compounds such as acetate, sulfate, succinate, benzoate, propionate, sorbate, oleate, orotate, linoleate, nicotinate, palmitate, allophanate, and phosphate.
Preferably, the vitamin E and/or vitamin E derivative is selected fromα-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl benzoate, tocopheryl propionate, tocopheryl sorbate, tocopheryl oleate, tocopheryl orotate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises vitamin E.
Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprisesα-tocopherol.
Advantageously, the total content of vitamin E and its derivative is from 0.8 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Compound of formula (I)
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5 wt. %of a compound of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition:
wherein:
R
1 and R
3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C
1-C
20 acyl carbonyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl carbonyl, C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl;
R
2 is selected from C
1-C
20 alkyl, C
2-C
20 alkenyl and C
2-C
20 alkynyl.
Preferably, R
1 and R
3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C
1-C
10 alkyl.
Preferably, R
2 is a C
1-C
10 alkyl.
More preferably, R
1 and R
3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C
1-C
4 alkyl.
More preferably, R
2 is a C
1-C
4 alkyl.
Most preferably, R
1 and R
3 are hydrogen.
Most preferably, R
2 is methyl or ethyl.
According to a preferred embodiment, R
1 and R
3 are independently selected from hydrogen, C
1-C
6 alkyl carbonyl, C
2-C
6 alkenyl carbonyl, C
1-C
6 alkyl, C
2-C
6 alkenyl group, C
3-C
6 alkynyl; R
2 is selected from C
1-C
6 alkyl, and C
2-C
6 alkenyl.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R
1 and R
3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C
1-C
4 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C
2-C
4 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C
1-C
4, linear or branched C
2-C
4 alkenyl group, linear or branched C
3-C
4 alkynyl group; R
2 is selected from linear or branched C
1-C
4 alkyl group, linear or branched C
2-C
4 alkenyl group.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R
1 and R
3 is hydrogen, R
2 is ethyl.
Most preferably, the compound of formula (I) is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
The compound of formula (I) is commercially available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
Advantageously, the compound of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of vitamin E and its derivative, as well as the compound of formula (I) , is at least 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C
2 to C
8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water and glycerin.
The aqueous phase may represent in amount ranging from 30 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 97 wt. %, more preferably from 60 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
The nature of the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention is not critical.
In particular, the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
The term oil refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm
2/min, inclusive.
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm
2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m
3 chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm
2) and per time unit (minute) .
The oil that is suitable for the present invention are not limited, it may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
The oily phase may present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %and more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
Depend on the final purpose, the composition according to the present invention can comprises one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
As cosmetic active ingredients that may be used in the composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; mattifying agent (such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) ; peeling agents; antiaging agents, α-hydroxy acids; tensioning agents; soothing agents; and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , flim-forming agents (for example, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer) , fillers, thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) , pH regulators (for example citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %of boron nitride;
(ii) from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of vitamin E; and
(iii) from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, for example in the form of a lotion, cream, gel or liquid foundation and they are prepared according to the conventional methods in the cosmetic field.
According to some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble substrate to form a mask.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
The skilled in the art can choose suitable substrate based on the nature of the composition according to the present invention.
Method and use
The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for brightening or whitening keratin materials, and especially human skin.
The composition according to the present invention can used in a mask.
The composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble substrate to form a mask.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to a mask for brightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate, and
B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the substrate.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
The skilled in the art can choose a suitable substrate and the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
Examples
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Substrates used: made of polyamide (PA) , with a thickness of 0.18-0.28 mm, available under the tradename MF-30 from the company Sanjiang Microfiber Nonwoven.
Invention Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4
Compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :
Table 2
Preparation procedure:
Each composition was prepared as follows, taking shampoo of invention example 1 for illustration.
Firstly, prefabrication phase A, prefabrication phase B and prefabrication phase C were prepared.
Prefabrication phase A: glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, dicaprylyl carbonate, hexyldecanol, phenylethyl resorcinol, octyldodecanol, and glycerin were heated to 75℃ and mixed by stirring, then butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and glyceryl isostearate were added at 75℃ and mixed by stirring for 5 minutes.
Prefabrication phase B: boron nitride, polysorbate 20, and water (3.9 wt. %of the total weight of water) were mixed by stirring for 15 minutes at room temperature.
Prefabrication phase C: water (2 wt. %of the total weight of water) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid were mixed by stirring for 10 minutes at room temperature.
Then the following steps were carried out:
1) . mixing water (40 wt. %of the total weight of water) , hydroxyacetophenone, and xanthan gum by stirring and heating the obtained mixture to 75℃;
2) . adding prefabrication phase A into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 10 minutes at 75℃;
3) . adding water (41.189 wt. %of the total weight of water) into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 10 minutes, then cooling the mixture to 45℃;
4) . adding ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 15 minutes;
5) . adding prefabrication phase B into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 10 minutes;
6) . adding fragrance and tocopherol into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 5 minutes;
7) . adding prefabrication phase C into the mixture and mixing by stirring for 10 minutes, then cooling the mixture to room temperature to obtain the composition.
Masks were prepared by filling a substrate with the obtained compositions, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1: 22.
Evaluation:
4 volunteers were invited to apply the mask tested on face, the mask was taken off after 15 minutes, and then massage was carried out to ensure absorption, the instant whitening effect was scored by skin experts and the scores were averaged. 6 hours later, the whitening effect was scored by the same skin experts and the scores were averaged.
The score was given from 1 to 5 according to the following standard: 1 represents no whitening effect and 5 represents the strongest whitening effect.
The results were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
The results show that the compositions according to invention examples 1 and 2 can provide an improved whitening effect, in addition, the whitening effect does not change substantially after at least for 6 hours.
Claims (15)
- A composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials comprising:(i) at least one mineral white pigment;(ii) at least 0.8 wt. %of vitamin E and/or its derivative, relative to the total weight of the composition; and(iii) at least 0.5 wt. %of a compound of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition:wherein, R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, C 1-C 20 acyl carbonyl, C 2-C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, C 1-C 20alkyl, C 2-C 20 alkenyl and C 2-C 20 alkynyl; R 2 is selected from C 1-C 20 alkyl, C 2-C 20 alkenyl and C 2-C 20 alkynyl.
- Composition of claim 1, wherein the mineral white pigment is selected from boron nitride, silica, pearl, mica, synthetic mica, mica based pearl pigment, composite comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof, preferably the mineral white pigment is boron nitride.
- Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the minearl white pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the vitamin E and/or vitamin E derivative is selected from α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl benzoate, tocopheryl propionate, tocopheryl sorbate, tocopheryl oleate, tocopheryl orotate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the composition comprise vitamine E, more preferably the composition comprises α-tocopherol.
- Composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total content of vitamin E and its derivative is from 0.8 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein in formula (I) ,R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C 1-C 10 alkyl; R 2 is a C 1-C 10 alkyl,preferably, R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen and C 1-C 4 alkyl; R 2 is a C 1-C 4 alkyl,more preferably, R 1 and R 3 are hydrogen; R 2 is methyl or ethyl.
- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising an aqueous phase, preferably the aqueous phase comprises water and one or more C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, more preferably the aqueous phase comprises water and glycerin.
- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising an oily phase, preferably the oily phase is present in amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %and even more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising a surfactant, preferably non-ionic surfactant.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising a thickener, preferably the thickener is selected from xanthan gum and ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the total amount of vitamin E and its derivative, as well as the compound of formula (I) , is at least 1.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- A composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:(i) from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %of boron nitride;(ii) from 1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of vitamin E; and(iii) from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
- A mask for brightening or whitening keratin materials, comprising:A) a water insoluble substrate, andB) a composition according to any of claims 1-13 impregnated into the substrate.
- A cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition of any one of claims 1 to 13 on the keratin materials.
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PCT/CN2022/073953 WO2023141804A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-01-26 | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
FR2201659A FR3133012A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-02-25 | composition for lightening or whitening keratinous materials |
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PCT/CN2022/073953 WO2023141804A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-01-26 | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
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PCT/CN2022/073953 WO2023141804A1 (en) | 2022-01-26 | 2022-01-26 | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
Country Status (2)
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FR (1) | FR3133012A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023141804A1 (en) |
Citations (3)
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WO2002062132A2 (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-08-15 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Mask composition |
US20060216254A1 (en) * | 2005-03-23 | 2006-09-28 | Mary Kay Inc. | Skin lightening compositions |
CN109223600A (en) * | 2018-10-26 | 2019-01-18 | 广州维真渼生物科技有限公司 | One kind is containing multivitamin whitening microemulsion and preparation method thereof |
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JPS6272605A (en) * | 1985-09-26 | 1987-04-03 | Kanebo Ltd | Beautifying cosmetic |
AU2007361455A1 (en) * | 2007-11-19 | 2009-05-28 | Stiefel Laboratories, Inc. | Topical cosmetic skin lightening compositions and methods of use thereof |
CN106265376A (en) * | 2016-10-12 | 2017-01-04 | 宁波久瑞生物工程有限公司 | A kind of speckle dispelling elite and preparation technology thereof |
FR3098715B1 (en) | 2019-07-19 | 2021-12-31 | Laboratoire Garancia | Skin whitening cosmetic composition comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione. |
EP4084767A4 (en) * | 2019-12-30 | 2023-11-08 | L'oreal | Composition for brightening or whitening keratin materials |
CN112245371A (en) * | 2020-12-07 | 2021-01-22 | 杨萍萍 | Cosmetic with freckle removing and whitening functions and preparation method thereof |
-
2022
- 2022-01-26 WO PCT/CN2022/073953 patent/WO2023141804A1/en unknown
- 2022-02-25 FR FR2201659A patent/FR3133012A1/en active Pending
Patent Citations (3)
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WO2002062132A2 (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-08-15 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Mask composition |
US20060216254A1 (en) * | 2005-03-23 | 2006-09-28 | Mary Kay Inc. | Skin lightening compositions |
CN109223600A (en) * | 2018-10-26 | 2019-01-18 | 广州维真渼生物科技有限公司 | One kind is containing multivitamin whitening microemulsion and preparation method thereof |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
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ANONYMOUS: "CosDNA", MARTIDERM SKIN COMPLEX, 14 September 2016 (2016-09-14), XP093081972, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.cosdna.com/chs/cosmetic_a1a0251093.html> [retrieved on 20230914] * |
BEIJING MAO SI BUSINESS CO., LTD.: "A FU WHITENING SERUM", DOMESTIC SPECIAL USE COSMETICS RECORD INFORMATION SERVICE, XP009548231, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://cprp.nmpa.gov.cn/sfda/ShowJSYQAction.do> * |
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FR3133012A1 (en) | 2023-09-01 |
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