CN108836887A - 一种防晒美白精华液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种防晒美白精华液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108836887A CN108836887A CN201810931193.0A CN201810931193A CN108836887A CN 108836887 A CN108836887 A CN 108836887A CN 201810931193 A CN201810931193 A CN 201810931193A CN 108836887 A CN108836887 A CN 108836887A
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Abstract
本发明防晒美白精华液,由以下重量份数的原料制成:小麦胚芽油6~7份、PEG‑5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2~3份、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2~3份、纳米二氧化钛5~6份、纯净水90~100份、乙二胺四乙酸1~1.5份、辛甘醇7~9份、异十二烷5~6份、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.1~0.2份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2~3份、夏块菌提取物3~4份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5~6份、松花粉4~5份、母菊花提取物3~4份。本发明采用鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,PEG‑5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠,为极温和的表面活性剂,辛甘醇作为温和防腐剂,同异十二烷、螯合剂乙二胺四乙酸,以及其他配方组分在化妆品中组合协同,刺激性极小,稳定性高。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,尤其涉及一种防晒美白精华液及其制备方法。
背景技术
人类皮肤的颜色是由多种原因而形成的,而决定性因素还是黑色素的分布和含量。产生黑色素的主要过程为:黑色素细胞组织中酪氨酸通过络氨酸酶的作用下,再经过多巴色素、多巴醌以及多巴等环节的转变,从而产生黑色素。根据相关报道研究,我国美白类化妆品的销售额呈递增模式,市场潜力值得重视。如今大部分美白化妆品都是根据酪氨酸酶为基础,利用美白活性成分来控制酪氨酸酶的活性,从而降低黑色素的形成,达到美白的作用。美白化妆品流行初期,虽然美白效果非常明显,但是却存在激素、汞等化学物品,对人们机体产生毒性,长期沉积,使机体中的器官出现衰竭的情况。随着我国化妆品方面制度的完善,对皮肤美白需要符合以下标准:可以抑制络氨酸酶的活性;美白化妆品的安全性要高,不可对皮肤产生刺激。无机防晒剂的防晒机制与其粉末粒径大小有关。当粒径较大(颜料级别)时,防晒机制是简单的遮盖作用,这类粉末在皮肤表面形成覆盖层,把照射到皮肤表面的紫外线反射或散射出去,从而减少进入皮肤中的紫外线含量,就像一束光照在镜子上被反射出去一样,属于物理性的屏蔽作用,所以也称为紫外线屏蔽剂,防晒作用较弱。有机防晒剂是一类对紫外线具有较好吸收作用的有机化合物,也称为紫外线吸收剂。这类物质能选择性吸收紫外线,分子结构不同,选择吸收的紫外线的波段也不同,有些防晒剂主要吸收UVB,有些防晒剂主要吸收UVA,而有些防晒剂属于广谱防晒剂,既能吸收UVB,又能吸收UVA。这类防晒剂将吸收的紫外线的光能转换为热能,同时其自身结构不发生变化。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有突出美白效果和防晒效果以及舒敏修复功效的防晒美白精华液及其制备方法。
本发明防晒美白精华液,由以下重量份数的原料制成:小麦胚芽油6~7份、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2~3份、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2~3份、纳米二氧化钛5~6份、纯净水90~100份、乙二胺四乙酸1~1.5份、辛甘醇7~9份、异十二烷5~6份、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.1~0.2份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2~3份、夏块菌提取物3~4份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5~6份、松花粉4~5份、母菊花提取物3~4份。
作为优化,该防晒美白精华液,由以下重量份数的原料制成:小麦胚芽油6.5份、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5份、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5份、纳米二氧化钛5.5份、纯净水95份、乙二胺四乙酸1.3份、辛甘醇8份、异十二烷5.5份、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5份、夏块菌提取物3.5份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.5份、松花粉4.5份、母菊花提取物3.5份。
制备该防晒美白精华液的方法,包括以下步骤:
(一)、将小麦胚芽油、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、纳米二氧化钛混合均匀,加入到纯净水中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸、辛甘醇、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物、母菊花提取物、松花粉,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
本发明采用的鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠,为极温和的表面活性剂,辛甘醇作为温和防腐剂,同异十二烷、螯合剂乙二胺四乙酸,以及其他配方组分在化妆品中组合协同,刺激性极小,稳定性高。尤其是采用了母菊花提取物、脂醇甘草亭酸酯组成有效成分,具有舒缓抗敏皮肤调理的功效;采用夏块菌提取物能够抑制黑色素细胞中酪氨酸酶活力,抑制黑色素合成,具有美白肌肤的功效;罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物同纳米二氧化钛协同作用突出,达到了对UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的广谱防护作用。松花粉和小麦胚芽油能增强皮肤代谢,修复皮肤使皮肤润泽。本发明防晒美白精华液各个组分协同作用突出,具有突出美白效果和防晒效果以及舒敏修复功效。
具体实施方式
下面给出的实施例拟对本发明作进一步说明,但不能理解为是对本发明保护范围的限制,本领域技术人员根据本发明内容对本发明的一些非本质的改进和调整,仍属于本发明的保护范围。
本发明组分中,母菊花提取物作为舒缓抗敏剂,具有抗菌、抗氧化、抗炎、舒缓抗敏等生物活性,广泛应用于化妆品中,可起到预防过敏、保湿、防治粉刺和抗衰老等功效。可选陕西康跃生物科技有限公司30:1规格母菊花提取物。硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯对油脂的溶解性得到了显著的改善,低熔点,在化妆品中有广泛的配伍性,可用于防晒、增白、调理、止痒、保湿等,消炎功能更强。可选西安瑞林生物科技有限公司99%硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯。松花粉是松树花蕊的精细胞,又名松黄,松花粉含有丰富的氨基酸和全部天然维生素以及多种酶,能增强皮肤代谢,增加皮肤弹性,延缓皮肤衰老。可选西安绿腾生物科技有限公司,98%破壁松花粉。辛甘醇作为温和防腐剂,有保湿和抗菌的作用。异十二烷作乳化剂和溶剂使用,属于氢碳化合物,该成分作溶剂可使产品有清爽质地,易于涂抹,并能减少和避免皮肤水分的流失。小麦胚芽油以小麦芽为原料经过低温萃取制取的一种谷物胚芽油,具有抗氧化作用,减少过氧化脂质生成,促进皮肤保湿功能,使皮肤润泽。聚乙烯吡咯烷酮具有良好分散性及成膜性,PVP在乳液中有保护胶体的作用。乙二胺四乙酸在化妆品中作螯合剂使用,常用做核酸酶、蛋白酶的抑制剂,也可用于去除重金属离子对酶的抑制作用。鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾作为乳化剂,对皮肤温和,做主乳化剂或辅助乳化剂均可获得良好的乳化效果。PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠,是极温和的阴离子表面活性剂,具有良好的起泡性和丰富的泡沫,易于增稠。可选广州星业科技股份有限公司Ucefactant MES D30。夏块菌提取物能够抑制黑色素细胞中酪氨酸酶活力,抑制黑色素合成,具有美白肌肤的功效,可以采用以下方法获得:将夏块菌粉碎,过40目筛;用l0倍体积的70%乙醇,75℃提取2次,每次2h,过滤,合并滤液;加入质量分数0.5%的活性炭,6O℃脱色0.5 h,离心过滤,得到提取液,减压浓缩除乙醇后,真空干燥获得。纳米二氧化钛,主要用作于物理防晒剂、粉底等系列产品中,纳米二氧化钛在防晒中主要是作为UVB波段的物理防晒成分去阻挡紫外线的。可选用江苏河海NT-200A化妆品用纳米二氧化钛。罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物具有防紫外线和修复肌肤的作用,可以采用以下方法获得:将白寇干燥后粉碎,过80目筛,按料液比1:5同纯净水混合,在80℃保持一小时;过滤得白寇提取液;将白寇提取液和玉米粉按重量比10:1混合获得培养液;将活化培养的罗伊氏乳杆菌菌种以1%的量接种于培养液中,37℃转摇培养72 h得到发酵液。将发酵液用超声波处理20min、超声功率250W、超声温度60℃,然后真空旋转蒸发浓缩,在浓缩液中加入4倍85%乙醇,醇沉24 h,用离心机5O00dmin的转速离心10min,取上清液于50~60℃电热真空干燥箱中烘干,获得提取物。罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物同纳米二氧化钛协同使用,具有对UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的广谱防护作用。
实施例1:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6.5千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5千克、纳米二氧化钛5.5千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水95千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.3千克、辛甘醇8千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5.5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物3.5千克、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.5千克、松花粉4.5千克、母菊花提取物3.5千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
实施例2:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2千克、纳米二氧化钛5千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水90千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1千克、辛甘醇7千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.1千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物3千克、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5千克、松花粉4千克、母菊花提取物3千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
实施例3:(一)、将小麦胚芽油7千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠3千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾3千克、纳米二氧化钛6千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水100千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.5千克、辛甘醇9千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷6千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.2千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮3千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物4千克、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物6千克、松花粉5千克、母菊花提取物4千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
对比例1:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6.5千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5千克、纳米二氧化钛5.5千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水95千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.3千克、辛甘醇8千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5.5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将熊果苷3.5千克、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.5千克、松花粉4.5千克、母菊花提取物3.5千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
对比例2:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6.5千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5千克、纳米二氧化钛5.5千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水95千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.3千克、辛甘醇8千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5.5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将纯净水3.5千克、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.5千克、松花粉4.5千克、母菊花提取物3.5千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
对比例3:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6.5千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5千克、纳米二氧化钛5.5千克混合均匀,加入到纯净水95千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.3千克、辛甘醇8千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5.5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物3.5千克、松花粉4.5千克、母菊花提取物3.5千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
对比例4:(一)、将小麦胚芽油6.5千克、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5千克、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5千克、混合均匀,加入到纯净水95千克中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸1.3千克、辛甘醇8千克、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷5.5千克、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15千克、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5千克,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物3.5千克、松花粉4.5千克、母菊花提取物3.5千克,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
抑制小鼠黑色素细胞中酪氨酸酶活力实验:分为四组稀释液分别是称取夏块菌提取物2g,本发明实施例1(80g),对比例1(80g),对比例2(80克)加500mL蒸馏水稀释备用。将来自小鼠的B16黑色素细胞接种于96孔板中,每孔100μL,置培养箱培育24小时后,添加稀释液,3天后弃去上清液,用PBS冲洗两遍,然后每孔加90μL含体积分数为1% 的Tri-tonX-100的PBS,在冰浴中超声破碎,每孔再加10μL,10mmol/L左旋多巴,在37℃下孵育60分钟,于475nm处比色,空白孔处调零,测各孔吸光度值。抑制率K%=(1一药物组平均吸光度值÷对照组平均吸光度值)×100%。结果见表1。
抑制小鼠黑色素细胞黑色素合成实验:分为四组稀释液分别是称取夏块菌提取物2g,本发明实施例1(80g),对比例1(80g),对比例2(80克)加500mL蒸馏水稀释备用。将来自小鼠的B16黑色素细胞以1×105个/mL的密度接种于培养皿中,在37℃、含5%CO2的条件下培养2天。弃去上清液,添加凝胶稀释液,3天后弃上清液,用PBS洗涤,每孔加入0.5mL胰酶,消化细胞3分钟,再在每孔加入2mL维持液终止消化。吹打混匀后,取出0.5mL做细胞计数。其余细胞悬液在2500转/分钟条件下离心5分钟,弃去上清液,于沉淀中加入NaOH溶液,加热使黑色素溶解,在490nm波长下,利用酶联免疫检测仪测吸光度。黑色素合成抑制率K%=[1一(药物孔吸光度值÷药物孔细胞密度)÷(对照孔吸光度值÷对照孔细胞密度)]×100%。结果见表1,通过表1可见夏块菌提取物具有抑制酪氨酸酶活力、抑制黑色素合成的作用,而采用本发明的防晒美白精华液的实施例1,具有突出的抑制酪氨酸酶活力、抑制黑色素合成的作用。
防晒效果评价:紫外检测方法,取样品1 g均匀涂抹在3M胶带纸上,放置37℃温箱中20min,取出贴附于石英比色皿透光侧,WFZUV2102 PC型紫外分光光度计(尤尼柯仪器有限公司)检测在280 nm~400nm波段的紫外吸收值。每隔10 nm紫外波长获得一个紫外吸收值。某波段的紫外吸收值为该波段内各点的算术平均紫外吸收A值。通过表2可见,采用本发明防晒美白精华液的实施例1-3紫外线防护效果显然优于对比例3-4,同时具有UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的优异防护效果。
Claims (3)
1.一种防晒美白精华液,其特征在于是由以下重量份数的原料制成:
小麦胚芽油6~7份、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2~3份、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2~3份、纳米二氧化钛5~6份、纯净水90~100份、乙二胺四乙酸1~1.5份、辛甘醇7~9份、异十二烷5~6份、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.1~0.2份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2~3份、夏块菌提取物3~4份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5~6份、松花粉4~5份、母菊花提取物3~4份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的防晒美白精华液,其特征在于是由以下重量份数的原料制成:小麦胚芽油6.5份、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠2.5份、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.5份、纳米二氧化钛5.5份、纯净水95份、乙二胺四乙酸1.3份、辛甘醇8份、异十二烷5.5份、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯0.15份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮2.5份、夏块菌提取物3.5份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.5份、松花粉4.5份、母菊花提取物3.5份。
3.一种制备权利要求1或2所述防晒美白精华液的方法,其特征在于包括以下步骤:
(一)、将小麦胚芽油、PEG-5月桂醇柠檬酸酯磺基琥珀酸酯二钠、鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、纳米二氧化钛混合均匀,加入到纯净水中,然后加入乙二胺四乙酸、辛甘醇、加热至75~79℃,搅拌均匀;
(二)、将异十二烷、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮,加热至85~88℃,搅拌均匀后,同步骤一中混合物混合加入均质机,在80~85℃条件下用均质机乳化5~10min;
(三)、将夏块菌提取物、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物、母菊花提取物、松花粉,在50~55℃条件下,依次加入到步骤二中混合物中,搅拌3~5min后,用功率250W超声波处理15~20min,冷却后即成。
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