CN108611727A - A kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna - Google Patents
A kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna Download PDFInfo
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- CN108611727A CN108611727A CN201810225610.XA CN201810225610A CN108611727A CN 108611727 A CN108611727 A CN 108611727A CN 201810225610 A CN201810225610 A CN 201810225610A CN 108611727 A CN108611727 A CN 108611727A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/042—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of production technologies of the two-sided over coating of vicugna, comprise the technical steps that：Prepare the two-sided over coating of camel's hair raw material, including weight percent be 50% camel Down Fiber, 25% quality count be 66S Australia's wool top fiber and 25% quality count be 70S Australia's wool top fiber；By unstained or stained camel Down Fiber by the way that the 14/1 public slubbing yarn propped up is made with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique；By Australia's wool top fiber that unstained or stained quality count is 66S and Australia's wool top fiber that quality count is 70S by the way that the 14/1 public slubbing yarn propped up is made with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique；Warping is carried out to gained yarn；The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb；Tape edge is passed sequentially through to the cloth knitted, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, drying, scalds and cuts and finished product is made in spotting.Its soft touch of two-sided over coating made of the present invention, heat-insulating property are high.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production technologies of the two-sided over coating of vicugna.
Background technology
As the improvement of people's living standards, the requirement for taking, the dicoration of clothes etc. is higher and higher, cashmere sheep
The high-grade raw material such as hair is increasingly used in weaving and the production of cloth, and camel wool fiber is since it is hollow bamboo knot shaped structure,
More conducively keep warm is one of the important source material for making high-grade wool textile.Camel hair products have the characteristics that it is light, soft, warm, because
It is soft, light, rare and is known as " natural protein fibre " and " soft gold " by fiber expert, but on the market, camel's hair is double
The garment products of face over coating material still have no that mainly camel wool fiber is special, and parameter is set during weaving and woven fabric
Determine to obtain the bad a large amount of wastes that can lead to raw material.In addition, various animal Down Fibers all exist as ready-made clothes made of textile raw material
Not the problem of Machine Washable.
Invention content
It is an object of the present invention to overcome defect existing in the prior art, a kind of two-sided over coating of vicugna is provided
Production technology can save the waste of raw material so that preparing the high two-sided over coating of camel's hair of soft touch, heat-insulating property can be large quantities of
Industrialized production is measured, and can be machine-washed and the damage problem without worrying machine washing to fabric after post-processing.
To achieve the above object, the technical scheme is to design a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna,
It comprises the technical steps that：
S1：Prepare the raw material of the two-sided over coating of camel's hair, including weight percent is 50% camel Down Fiber, 25% product
Australia's wool top fiber that matter number is 66S and 25% quality count be 70S Australia's wool top fiber；
S2：By unstained or stained camel Down Fiber by being made with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique
The slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch；By Australia's wool top fiber that unstained or stained quality count is 66S and the Australia that quality count is 70S
Wool top fiber with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique by being made the 14/1 public slubbing yarn propped up；Spinning technological process
Middle control relative humidity 50%~65%, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature；
S3：Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein the slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch is made as latitude using camel Down Fiber
The slubbing of 14/1 public branch is made in yarn, the Australia's wool top fiber for using quality count to be 70S for the Australia's wool top fiber and quality count of 66S
Yarn is as warp thread；The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine weft count be 288/
10cm, upper machine breadth are 178cm, and total quantity of warps is 6059, and porter 33, it is 9 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 204cm, fabric gram
Weight is 900g/m2, finished product grammes per square metre is 850g/m2；
S4：Tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, baking are passed sequentially through to the cloth that S3 is knitted
It is dry, scald and cut and finished product is made in spotting.Camel hair is commonly called as vicugna；It is found after multiple lab scale, pilot scale, above-mentioned is each
Parameter is optimal processing parameter；The waste of raw material can be saved so that prepare the high camel's hair Double-face clockwise hair of soft touch, heat-insulating property
It can be with large-scale industrial production.The selection of parameters is the length of the raw material in order to ensure unlike material, fineness, containing short
Ratio of fiber etc. is consistent, comparatively each physical index such as bar evenness, the twist, fabric strength of such yarn etc. compares
It is good；Wherein, the 66S of Australia's wool top fiber indicates that quality count, i.e. wool fineness, fineness are 21.0 microns.It is 33 by porter, wears number
Upper machine warp count is 297/10cm known to 9.
Further technical solution is, the bur technique in S4 steps and soft technique is additionally provided between stoving process,
In 40 DEG C ± 5 DEG C of water be added 2%~4% silicone softening agent, 5%~6% finishing agent and 5%~6% it is smooth
Agent is made soft mixed liquor, and it is 5~6 to adjust pH value, by the cloth after bur technique immerse 30min in soft mixed liquor ±
5min.After handling in this way, cloth becomes more well-pressed, and the strength back and forth being amenable in machine washing process is rubbed
It wipes, it will not pilling fluffing in machine washing process.
Further technical solution is that chitosan finishing liquid is applied to the side of fabric after S4 steps, and shell is poly-
In sugared dressing liquid the weight percent of chitosan be 2~5%, the weight percent of sulforamidate ionic liquid be 2.5~
4.5%, the weight percent of epoxy plasticizer is 0.05~0.225%, the weight percent of metal oxide sol is
0.15%.Using sulforamidate ion liquid dissolving chitosan, chitosan is uniformly dispersed wherein, and it is big to be conducive to chitosan
Molecule during cloth sorting subsequently to being uniformly distributed；And it is sent out between chitosan, camel wool fiber and metal oxide sol
Raw crosslinking, forms stable three-dimensional network, and the Australia's wool top fiber and camel wool fiber after arrangement are not only well-pressed, also soft, enhance
It resists the effect of the frictional force repeatedly in machine washing process.
Further technical solution is that epoxy plasticizer is epoxyoleic acid butyl ester, epoxyoleic acid monooctyl ester, epoxyoleic acid last of the ten Heavenly stems ester
In it is one or more；Metal oxide sol is zinc oxide colloidal sol.
Further technical solution be also include chitosan crosslinked dose in chitosan finishing liquid, in chitosan finishing
Weight percent in liquid is 0.02~0.1%.
Further technical solution is the chitosan crosslinked dose of mixture for formaldehyde and acetic anhydride, in chitosan crosslinked dose
The weight percent of formaldehyde is 65~80%.Crosslinking agent to form three-dimensional crosslinked network between chitosan molecule, after improving coating
The toughness of design on fabric surface film.
Further technical solution is, after chitosan finishing liquid is applied to fabric, under vacuum heating conditions
Chitosan colloidal sol is coated with to surface layer fabric, the temperature setting of vacuum drying oven at 40 DEG C, vacuum degree setting -0.05MPa~-
0.1MPa。
Further technical solution is that the preparation method of chitosan colloidal sol is as follows：It is 2% that chitosan, which is dissolved in volume fraction,
Sulfamic acid solution prepare volume mass score be 0.4% chitosan solution, then by 2.5% tetraisopropyl titanate side
Stirring side is slowly added into above-mentioned solution, is started to become cloudy and is continued magnetic agitation to whole dissolvings, that is, obtains chitosan/amino
Sulfonic acid/titanium hybrid collosol；It is sprayed to the surface layer of the fabric in vacuum drying oven by injection equipment after colloidal sol deaeration 20min.
Chitosan/sulfamic acid/titanium hybrid collosol can deposit to form film in design on fabric surface, while using and being sprayed under vacuum heating conditions
Mode, avoid influence of the hot dipping to preceding road treatment process, and destroy the effect of previous processed generation, while in order to prevent
Spraying method cannot go deep into the grid of spinning material internal structure using vacuum to form the combination of firm chemical bond and adding
The condition of heat both ensure that the effective, deep of fabric processing, and also avoid the destruction generated to preceding road treatment process, chitosan
The thermal stability of fabric improves after colloidal sol coating so that manufactured ready-made clothes can be not concerned about in the warm underwater cleaning of higher temperature
The problems such as deformation, shrink.Temperature peaks of the temperature peak of treated cloth zero-g period than the untreated cloth zero-g period
It is worth much higher, the reason is that treated, cloth introduces Ti-O network structures, and the weightlessness of treated cloth is by spinning fibre
On residual organo-functional group thermal decomposition generate, so treated, fabric thermal stability is improved.
Further technical solution is that in step s3, upper machine regain is 27~32%, and the weight ratio of grease is 100：
3.5, the weight ratio of raw material and water is 1:14；In the step S2, the twist, drafting force, fabric are included in mule spinning technique
Strongly, the detection of evenness of yarn strip, wherein evenness of yarn strip are detected using Uster sliver instrument；It is arranged in mule spinning technique
Humidifier；Yarn clearer is set in automatic winding technique；There is the quality testing to finished product slubbing yarn after automatic winding technique
Step, quality inspection steps include the detection to the twist, fabric strength, number, finished product regain and bar evenness.If
Yarn is excessively high containing staple fiber, can be suitably added a little obvolvent agent such as silica gel to increase yarn strength and row yielding, mule
Quality is controlled when setting the twist and drafting force, will spearhead test, to measure the twist after upper charka in time, drafting force, knit
The detection of object strength, Uster sliver, reaches the requirement of technique initialization；It can be carried out according to actual conditions when spun yarn is produced
Some humidifier humidifies improve resultant yarn rate to reduce end breakage rate.
The advantages of the present invention are：The waste of raw material can be saved so that prepare soft touch, heat-insulating property
The two-sided over coating of high camel's hair can be with large-scale industrial production, and can machine-wash after post-processing and not have to worry machine washing pair
The damage problem of fabric；The selection of parameters is length, fineness, the ratio etc. containing staple fiber for the raw material for ensureing unlike material
Unanimously, each physical index such as bar evenness, the twist, fabric strength of yarn etc. is relatively good；After processing, cloth becomes more to endure
It includes, the power friction back and forth being amenable in machine washing process, it will not pilling fluffing in machine washing process.Using amino acid sulfuric acid
Ionic liquid dissolves chitosan, and chitosan is uniformly dispersed wherein, is conducive to chitosan macromolecular subsequently to cloth sorting
It is uniformly distributed in the process；And it is crosslinked between chitosan, camel wool fiber and metal oxide sol, forms stable three-dimensional
Network, the Australia's wool top fiber and camel wool fiber after arrangement are not only well-pressed, also soft, enhance it and resist in machine washing process repeatedly
The effect of frictional force；Crosslinking agent to form three-dimensional crosslinked network between chitosan molecule, improves design on fabric surface film after coating
Toughness；Chitosan/sulfamic acid/titanium hybrid collosol can deposit to form film in design on fabric surface, while use vacuum heating conditions
The mode of lower spraying avoids influence of the hot dipping to preceding road treatment process, and destroys the effect of previous processed generation, is simultaneously
Prevent spraying method from cannot go deep into the grid of spinning material internal structure using to form the combination of firm chemical bond
The condition of heating in vacuum both ensure that the effective, deep of fabric processing, and also avoid the destruction generated to preceding road treatment process,
Chitosan colloidal sol coating after fabric thermal stability improve so that manufactured ready-made clothes can higher temperature warm underwater cleaning and
The problems such as being not concerned about deformation, shrinking.The temperature peak of treated cloth zero-g period is than the untreated cloth zero-g period
Temperature peak is much higher, the reason is that treated, cloth introduces Ti-O network structures, and the weightlessness of treated cloth is by spinning
What the thermal decomposition of the residual organo-functional group on silk fiber generated, so treated, fabric thermal stability is improved.
Specific implementation mode
With reference to embodiment, the specific embodiment of the present invention is further described.Following embodiment is only used for more
Add and clearly demonstrate technical scheme of the present invention, and not intended to limit the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment one：
The present invention is a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna, is comprised the technical steps that：
S1：Prepare the raw material of the two-sided over coating of camel's hair, including weight percent is 50% camel Down Fiber, 25% product
Australia's wool top fiber that matter number is 66S and 25% quality count be 70S Australia's wool top fiber；
S2：By unstained or stained camel Down Fiber by being made with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique
The slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch；By Australia's wool top fiber that unstained or stained quality count is 66S and the Australia that quality count is 70S
Wool top fiber with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique by being made the 14/1 public slubbing yarn propped up；Spinning technological process
Middle control relative humidity 50%~65%, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature；
S3：Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein the slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch is made as latitude using camel Down Fiber
The slubbing of 14/1 public branch is made in yarn, the Australia's wool top fiber for using quality count to be 70S for the Australia's wool top fiber and quality count of 66S
Yarn is as warp thread；The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine weft count be 288/
10cm, upper machine breadth are 178cm, and total quantity of warps is 6059, and porter 33, it is 9 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 204cm, fabric gram
Weight is 900g/m2, finished product grammes per square metre is 850g/m2；
S4：Tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, baking are passed sequentially through to the cloth that S3 is knitted
It is dry, scald and cut and finished product is made in spotting.
Bur technique in S4 steps and soft technique is additionally provided between stoving process, in 40 DEG C ± 5 DEG C of water plus
Enter 2% silicone softening agent, 5% finishing agent and 5% smooth agent and be made soft mixed liquor, it is 5~6 to adjust pH value, will
(wherein, finishing agent uses modified polysilicate to 25min in the soft mixed liquor of cloth immersion after bur technique；Organosilicon flexible
Agent uses and amino silicone oils softening agent；).Chitosan finishing liquid is applied to the side of fabric after S4 steps, shell is poly-
The weight percent of chitosan is 2% in sugared dressing liquid, the weight percent of sulforamidate ionic liquid is 2.5%, ring
The weight percent of oxygen plasticizer is 0.05%.Epoxy plasticizer is epoxyoleic acid butyl ester.Also include in chitosan finishing liquid
Chitosan crosslinked dose, the weight percent in chitosan finishing liquid is 0.02%.Chitosan crosslinked dose is formaldehyde and acetic acid
The mixture of acid anhydride, the weight percent of formaldehyde is 65% in chitosan crosslinked dose.Chitosan finishing liquid is being applied to inner layer surface
After material, chitosan colloidal sol is coated with to surface layer fabric under vacuum heating conditions, the temperature setting of vacuum drying oven is at 40 DEG C, vacuum degree
It is arranged in -0.05MPa.
The preparation method of chitosan colloidal sol is as follows：Chitosan is dissolved in the sulfamic acid solution that volume fraction is 2% to prepare
2.5% tetraisopropyl titanate, is then slowly added by the chitosan solution that volume mass score is 0.4% while stirring
It states in solution, starts to become cloudy and continue magnetic agitation to whole dissolvings, that is, obtain chitosan/sulfamic acid/titanium hybrid collosol；It is molten
It is sprayed to the surface layer of the fabric in vacuum drying oven by injection equipment after glue deaeration 20min.
In step s3, upper machine regain is 27~32%, and the weight ratio of grease is 100：3.5, the weight of raw material and water
Than being 1:14；In the step S2, the inspection of the twist, drafting force, fabric strength, evenness of yarn strip is included in mule spinning technique
It surveys, wherein evenness of yarn strip is detected using Uster sliver instrument；Humidifier is set in mule spinning technique；In automatic winding work
Yarn clearer is set in skill；Also have after automatic winding technique to the quality inspection steps of finished product slubbing yarn, in quality inspection steps
It include the detection to the twist, fabric strength, number, finished product regain and bar evenness.
Embodiment two：
With being different only in that for embodiment one, the bur technique in S4 steps and soft work is additionally provided between stoving process
Skill, be added in 40 DEG C ± 5 DEG C of water 4% silicone softening agent, 6% finishing agent and 6% smooth agent be made it is soft mixed
Liquid is closed, it is 5~6 to adjust pH value, and the cloth after bur technique is immersed 35min in soft mixed liquor.By shell after S4 steps
Glycan dressing liquid is applied to the side of fabric, and the weight percent of chitosan is 5%, amino acid sulphur in chitosan finishing liquid
The weight percent of hydrochlorate ionic liquid is 4.5%, the weight percent of epoxy plasticizer is 0.225%.Epoxy plasticizer is
The mixture of epoxyoleic acid butyl ester, epoxyoleic acid monooctyl ester, epoxyoleic acid last of the ten Heavenly stems ester.Also include that chitosan is handed in chitosan finishing liquid
Join agent, the weight percent in chitosan finishing liquid is 0.1%.The chitosan crosslinked dose of mixing for formaldehyde and acetic anhydride
Object, the weight percent of formaldehyde is 80% in chitosan crosslinked dose.After chitosan finishing liquid is applied to fabric, true
Chitosan colloidal sol is coated with to surface layer fabric under empty heating condition, the temperature setting of vacuum drying oven at 40 DEG C, vacuum degree setting-
0.1MPa。
Embodiment three：
With being different only in that for embodiment one, the bur technique in S4 steps and soft work is additionally provided between stoving process
Skill, in 40 DEG C of water 3% silicone softening agent, 5.5% finishing agent and 5.5% smooth agent is added is made soft mixing
Liquid, it is 5~6 to adjust pH value, and the cloth after bur technique is immersed 30min in soft mixed liquor.Shell is gathered after S4 steps
Sugared dressing liquid is applied to the side of fabric, and the weight percent of chitosan is 3.5%, amino acid sulphur in chitosan finishing liquid
The weight percent of hydrochlorate ionic liquid is 3.5%, the weight percent of epoxy plasticizer is 0.15%.Epoxy plasticizer is ring
Oxygen oleic acid monooctyl ester.Also include chitosan crosslinked dose in chitosan finishing liquid, the weight percent in chitosan finishing liquid
It is 0.06%.Chitosan crosslinked dose be formaldehyde and acetic anhydride mixture, the weight percent of formaldehyde is in chitosan crosslinked dose
70%.It is molten to surface layer fabric coating chitosan under vacuum heating conditions after chitosan finishing liquid is applied to fabric
Glue, at 40 DEG C, vacuum degree is arranged in -0.07MPa the temperature setting of vacuum drying oven.
Comparative example one：
With being different only in that for embodiment one, it is equipped with not in the bur technique in S4 steps and between stoving process softness
Technique.
Comparative example two：
With being different only in that for embodiment one, chitosan finishing liquid be not applied to the one of fabric after S4 steps
Side.
The sample of embodiment and comparative example is detected, according to AATCC127-2003 water-resistance：Hydrostatic platen press and
AATCC66 wrinkle recoveries angle test method (for ease of list, comparative example indicates that embodiment is indicated with S with D)：
The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is noted that for the ordinary skill people of the art
For member, without departing from the technical principles of the invention, several improvements and modifications can also be made, these improvements and modifications
Also it should be regarded as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna, which is characterized in that comprise the technical steps that：
S1：Prepare the raw material of the two-sided over coating of camel's hair, including weight percent is 50% camel Down Fiber, 25% quality branch
Australia's wool top fiber that number is 66S and 25% quality count be 70S Australia's wool top fiber；
S2：By unstained or stained camel Down Fiber by being made 14/1 with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique
The slubbing yarn of public affairs branch；By Australia's wool top fiber that unstained or stained quality count is 66S and Australia's wool top that quality count is 70S
Fiber with hair, carding, mule spinning and automatic winding technique by being made the 14/1 public slubbing yarn propped up；It is controlled in spinning technological process
Relative humidity 50%~65% processed, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature；
S3：Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein the slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch is made as weft yarn using camel Down Fiber,
The slubbing yarn of 14/1 public branch is made in the Australia's wool top fiber for using quality count to be 70S for the Australia's wool top fiber and quality count of 66S
As warp thread；The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, upper machine weft count be 288/
10cm, upper machine breadth are 178cm, and total quantity of warps is 6059, and porter 33, it is 9 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 204cm, fabric gram
Weight is 900g/m2, finished product grammes per square metre is 850g/m2；
S4：To the cloth that S3 is knitted pass sequentially through tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, drying,
It scalds and cuts and finished product is made in spotting.
2. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as described in claim 1, which is characterized in that in S4 steps
Soft technique is additionally provided between bur technique and stoving process, the organosilicon of addition 2%~4% is soft in 40 DEG C ± 5 DEG C of water
Soft mixed liquor is made in soft dose, 5%~6% finishing agent and 5%~6% smooth agent, and it is 5~6 to adjust pH value, will be through bur
Cloth after technique immerses 30min ± 5min in soft mixed liquor.
3. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 2, which is characterized in that will after S4 steps
Chitosan finishing liquid is applied to the side of fabric, and the weight percent of chitosan is 2~5%, ammonia in chitosan finishing liquid
The weight percent of base acid sulfate ion liquid is 2.5~4.5%, the weight percent of epoxy plasticizer be 0.05~
0.225%, the weight percent of metal oxide sol is 0.15%.
4. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 3, which is characterized in that the epoxy plasticising
Agent is one or more in epoxyoleic acid butyl ester, epoxyoleic acid monooctyl ester, epoxyoleic acid last of the ten Heavenly stems ester；Metal oxide sol is dioxy
Change zinc colloidal sol.
5. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 4, which is characterized in that the chitosan is whole
It also includes chitosan crosslinked dose to manage in liquid, and the weight percent in chitosan finishing liquid is 0.02~0.1%.
6. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 5, which is characterized in that chitosan crosslinked dose
For the mixture of formaldehyde and acetic anhydride, the weight percent of formaldehyde is 65~80% in chitosan crosslinked dose.
7. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 6, which is characterized in that chitosan is whole
After reason liquid is applied to fabric, chitosan colloidal sol, the temperature of vacuum drying oven are coated with to surface layer fabric under vacuum heating conditions
At 40 DEG C, vacuum degree is arranged in -0.05MPa~-0.1MPa for setting.
8. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 7, which is characterized in that the chitosan is molten
The preparation method of glue is as follows：It chitosan is dissolved in the sulfamic acid solution that volume fraction is 2% prepares volume mass score and be
Then 2.5% tetraisopropyl titanate is slowly added into above-mentioned solution by 0.4% chitosan solution while stirring, start
It becomes cloudy and continues magnetic agitation to whole dissolvings, that is, obtain chitosan/sulfamic acid/titanium hybrid collosol；After colloidal sol deaeration 20min
It is sprayed to the surface layer of the fabric in vacuum drying oven by injection equipment.
9. a kind of production technology of the two-sided over coating of vicugna as claimed in claim 7, which is characterized in that in the step S3
In, upper machine regain is 27~32%, and the weight ratio of grease is 100：3.5, the weight ratio of raw material and water is 1:14；In the step
In rapid S2, the detection of the twist, drafting force, fabric strength, evenness of yarn strip, wherein evenness of yarn strip are included in mule spinning technique
It is detected using Uster sliver instrument；Humidifier is set in mule spinning technique；Yarn clearer is set in automatic winding technique；
There are the quality inspection steps to finished product slubbing yarn after automatic winding technique, quality inspection steps include strong to the twist, fabric
The detection of power, number, finished product regain and bar evenness.
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