CN108608708B - 一种氨纶超柔服装面料及其加工方法 - Google Patents

一种氨纶超柔服装面料及其加工方法 Download PDF

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CN108608708B
CN108608708B CN201810416819.4A CN201810416819A CN108608708B CN 108608708 B CN108608708 B CN 108608708B CN 201810416819 A CN201810416819 A CN 201810416819A CN 108608708 B CN108608708 B CN 108608708B
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陆锦祥
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Tongxiang Henghua Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种氨纶超柔服装面料及其加工方法，属于纺织面料加工技术领域，其技术要点为：一种氨纶超柔服装面料，包括布基层和贴附在所述布基层靠近人体肌肤一侧的里料层，所述布基层与所述里料层之间设有聚氨酯粘合剂层，所述里料层包括FDY经纱、FDY纬纱以及穿设在所述FDY纬纱上且与所述FDY经纱交错缠绕呈“八”字形状的涤纶包芯纱。本发明提高了面料的吸湿性能和透气性能，进一步提升了面料整体的舒适度；通过穿设扁平144F涤纶纱线，不仅能够提高里料层中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感。

Description

一种氨纶超柔服装面料及其加工方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料加工技术领域，更具体地说，它涉及一种氨纶超柔服装面料及其加工方法。
背景技术
随着经济的发展和人们生活水平的不断提高，人们对于面料的需求也越来越多，目前现有的面料，人们更加关注的就是面料的舒适度。其中舒适度，也就是人们在穿着时的舒适程度，主要体现在面料的透气性、吸湿性和柔软度上。
目前现有的合成纤维织成的面料在穿着时，往往只作为外套来穿戴，一方面合成纤维不够柔软，直接接触容易损伤皮肤；另一方面吸湿和透气性能不如天然纤维，例如棉或者麻纤维吸汗和透气。因此需要提出一种新的技术方案来提高面料的舒适度的问题。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明的目的一在于提供一种氨纶超柔服装面料，提高了面料的吸湿性能和透气性能，进一步提升了面料整体的舒适度。
为实现上述目的一，本发明提供了如下技术方案：一种氨纶超柔服装面料，包括布基层和贴附在所述布基层靠近人体肌肤一侧的里料层，所述布基层与所述里料层之间设有聚氨酯粘合剂层，所述里料层包括FDY经纱、FDY纬纱以及穿设在所述FDY纬纱上且与所述FDY经纱交错缠绕呈“八”字形状的涤纶包芯纱。
通过采用上述技术方案，在布基层上设置里料层，同时采用FDY经纱、FDY纬纱以及涤纶包芯纱相互缠绕呈“八”字形状，此时上述三个纱线之间形成交错编织后，不仅纱线之间相互交错提高了面料之间的连接强度、高延伸性和高弹性回复性能，同时纱线之间的相互交错后形成若干类似毛细管的一样的间隙，提高了面料的吸湿性能和透气性能，进一步提升了面料整体的舒适度。
本发明进一步设置为：还包括按顺序依次穿设在所述涤纶包芯纱和FDY经纱之间的扁平144F涤纶纱线。
通过采用上述技术方案，将扁平144F涤纶纱线穿设在涤纶包芯纱和FDY经纱之间，其中扁平144F涤纶纱线本身就具有良好的刚性，不仅能够提高里料层中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感。
本发明进一步设置为：还包括按顺序依次穿设在所述涤纶包芯纱和FDY纬纱之间的扁平144F涤纶纱线。
通过采用上述技术方案，将扁平144F涤纶纱线穿设在涤纶包芯纱和FDY纬纱之间，其中扁平144F涤纶纱线本身就具有良好的刚性，不仅能够提高里料层中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感。
本发明进一步设置为：所述涤纶包芯纱包括若干氨纶芯纱和编织在所述氨纶芯纱周侧的复合长纤维层。
通过采用上述技术方案，采用氨纶芯纱和包覆在外的复合长纤维层，使得涤纶包芯纱不仅能具有良好的弹性和手感，而且还能增加纤维的抗拉伸强度。同时利用编制方法还能进一步提高纤维之间的空隙，有助于提高面料整体的吸湿性和透气性能。
本发明进一步设置为：复合长纤维层为尼龙纤维长丝、粘胶纤维长丝或者涤纶纤维长丝中的两种或两种以上。
通过采用上述技术方案，尼龙纤维又称聚酰胺纤维，它具有较好的耐磨性、看拉伸强度、弹性回复率、耐疲劳性和吸湿性。而粘胶纤维是粘纤的全称，以“木”作为原材料，从天然木纤维素中提取并重塑纤维分子而得到的纤维素纤维。它具有光滑凉爽、透气、抗静电、防紫外线，色彩绚丽，染色牢度较好等特点。另外，涤纶纤维又称聚酯纤维，它是以精对苯二甲酸(PTA)或对苯二甲酸二甲酯(DMT)和乙二醇(EG)为原料经酯化或酯交换和缩聚反应而制得的成纤高聚物——聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)，经纺丝和后处理制成的纤维。它具有强度高、弹性好、耐磨性好和耐腐蚀性好的优点。由此采用上述三种长丝纤维，不仅能够提高涤纶包芯纱的强度、弹性和耐磨性能；而且还能提升涤纶包芯纱的透气、吸湿性和柔软度。
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明的目的二在于提供一种氨纶超柔服装面料的加工方法，操作简便，加工方便快捷，同时还能保证氨纶超柔服装面料整体的吸湿、透气和柔软度。
为实现上述目的二，本发明提供了如下技术方案：一种氨纶超柔服装面料的加工方法，包括如下操作步骤，
步骤A、整经：
1、原料：采用15D氨纶芯纱；
2、设备：整经机；
3、工作流程：将15D氨纶芯纱设置于整经机之上，然后通过打结的方式连接纱线；同时采用张力调节器调节各15D氨纶芯纱的张力，即可将若干5D氨纶芯纱按规定的长度和宽度平行卷绕在织轴上；
步骤B、织造：
1、原料：FDY经纱、涤纶包芯纱以及扁平涤纶纱线；
2、设备：经编机；
3、工作流程：确定组织，布基层采用斜纹组织，送纱量为2000蜡克，里料层采用绞纱组织，送纱量为2290蜡克；
步骤C、后处理：
1、材料：由步骤B制得的胚布；
2、设备：平幅水洗机、烘干机和染整机；
3、工作流程：首先采用平福水洗机去除胚布内的碱液和油脂，脱水后将胚布经由烘干机进行烘干处理，随后放入烘干机内烘干，并进行面料的柔软和定幅处理，即可得到成品面料。
通过采用上述技术方案，15D氨纶芯纱本身具有较好的弹性和耐磨性能，通过整经处理后再次进行纺织，可降低断纱率，从而提高织造时的效率和质量。随后再将完成织造后的胚布进行后处理，可提高胚布整体的柔软度和吸收性能。
本发明进一步设置为：所述烘干机前设有水池，所述胚布从水池的液面下导过后经初步脱水处理后传输到烘干机内进行烘干处理。
通过采用上述技术方案，采用上述方式进行后整理处理，不仅操作方便，大大提高了生产的质量和效率。
本发明进一步设置为：所述水池内清水、柔软剂和渗透剂的比例为100∶（1-3）∶（1-2）。
通过采用上述技术方案，清水、柔软剂和渗透剂同时加入到水池内提高了水池中柔软剂和渗透剂一起进入到胚布的纤维内，十分的方便和省力，且效率较高。
本发明进一步设置为：还包括C1后染整：
1、材料：由步骤B制得的胚布；
2、设备：平幅水洗机、溢流染色机、离心脱水机、烘干机和染整机；
3、工作流程：首先采用平福水洗机去除胚布内的碱液和油脂，脱水后再放入溢流染色机内进行染色处理，溢流染色机的初始温度为45-50℃，并以1-1.5℃/min的速度升温至110-120℃，同时保温运行15-20min；接着将染色后的面料经由离心脱水机进行脱水处理；随后放入烘干机内烘干，并进行面料的柔软和定幅处理，即可得到成品面料。
通过采用上述技术方案，当胚布需进行染色处理时，操作者需要对面料水洗后去除油脂和碱液，此时可以提高胚布的上色机率，接着再经离心脱水脱水处理，烘干后对胚布进行柔软、定幅处理，即得到成品面料。由此得到的面料不仅操作简单，加工方便，而且还能提高面料整体的柔软度，使得面料更加的舒适。
综上所述，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1、本发明提高了面料的吸湿性能和透气性能，进一步提升了面料整体的舒适度；
2、通过穿设扁平144F涤纶纱线，不仅能够提高里料层中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感；
3、本发明的加工方法，操作简便，加工方便快捷，同时还能保证氨纶超柔服装面料整体的吸湿、透气和柔软度。
附图说明
图1为本实施例1的剖视图；
图2为本实施例1中里料层的立体图；
图3为本实施例1中涤纶包芯纱的立体图；
图4为本实施例3中里料层的立体图。
附图说明：1、布基层；2、里料层；3、聚氨酯粘合剂层；4、FDY经纱；5、FDY纬纱；6、涤纶包芯纱；7、扁平144F涤纶纱线；8、氨纶芯纱；9、复合长纤维层。
具体实施方式
以下结合附图对本发明作进一步详细说明。
其中相同的零部件用相同的附图标记表示。需要说明的是，下面描述中使用的词语“前”、“后”、“左”、“右”、“上”和“下”指的是附图中的方向，词语“底面”和“顶面”、“内”和“外”分别指的是朝向或远离特定部件几何中心的方向。
实施例1：一种氨纶超柔服装面料，如图1所示，包括布基层1和贴附在布基层1靠近人体肌肤一侧的里料层2，其中布基层1与里料层2之间设有一层聚氨酯粘合剂层3，该聚氨酯粘合剂层3是由聚氨酯粘合剂经点胶机交错分布。另外结合图2所示，里料层2包括FDY经纱4、FDY纬纱5以及穿设在FDY纬纱5上且与经纱交错缠绕呈“八”字形状的涤纶包芯纱6。其中如图3所示，涤纶包芯纱6包括若干根氨纶芯纱8和编织在上述氨纶芯纱8周侧的复合长纤维层9。该复合长纤维层9由每组4根的长纤维组成，一上一下相互编制在涤纶包芯纱6外。由此可使涤纶包芯纱6不仅能具有良好的弹性和手感，而且还能增加纤维的抗拉伸强度。同时利用编制方法还能进一步提高纤维之间的空隙，有助于提高面料整体的吸湿性和透气性能。
为了提升涤纶包芯纱6的透气、吸湿性和柔软度，如图3所示，上述复合长纤维层9为尼龙纤维长丝和粘胶纤维长丝。其中，尼龙纤维又称聚酰胺纤维，它具有较好的耐磨性、看拉伸强度、弹性回复率、耐疲劳性和吸湿性。而粘胶纤维是粘纤的全称，以“木”作为原材料，从天然木纤维素中提取并重塑纤维分子而得到的纤维素纤维。它具有光滑凉爽、透气、抗静电、防紫外线，色彩绚丽，染色牢度较好等特点。由此采用上述两种长丝纤维，不仅能够提高涤纶包芯纱6的强度、弹性和耐磨性能；而且还能提升涤纶包芯纱6的透气、吸湿性和柔软度。
为了提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感，如图2所示，上述氨纶超柔服装面料还包括按顺序依次穿设在所述涤纶包芯纱6和FDY经纱4之间的扁平144F涤纶纱线7。其中，扁平144F涤纶纱线7是指由144根涤纶纤维组成的扁平状纱线。由此该扁平144F涤纶纱线7本身就具有良好的刚性，不仅能够提高里料层2中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感。
实施例2：一种氨纶超柔服装面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于：为了提升涤纶包芯纱6的透气、吸湿性和柔软度，上述复合长纤维层9为尼龙纤维长丝和涤纶纤维长丝。其中，尼龙纤维又称聚酰胺纤维，它具有较好的耐磨性、看拉伸强度、弹性回复率、耐疲劳性和吸湿性。而涤纶纤维又称聚酯纤维，它是以精对苯二甲酸(PTA)或对苯二甲酸二甲酯(DMT)和乙二醇(EG)为原料经酯化或酯交换和缩聚反应而制得的成纤高聚物——聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)，经纺丝和后处理制成的纤维。它具有强度高、弹性好、耐磨性好和良好的耐腐蚀性能。由此采用上述两种长丝纤维，不仅能够提高涤纶包芯纱6的强度、弹性和耐磨性能；而且还能提升涤纶包芯纱6的透气、吸湿性和柔软度。
实施例3：一种氨纶超柔服装面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于：如图4所示，为了提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感，上述氨纶超柔服装面料还包括按顺序依次穿设在涤纶包芯纱6和FDY纬纱5之间的扁平144F涤纶纱线7。其中，扁平144F涤纶纱线7是指由144根涤纶纤维组成的扁平状纱线。由此该扁平144F涤纶纱线7本身就具有良好的刚性，不仅能够提高里料层2中各纤维之间的连接强度，而且还能利用纤维之间的空隙，提升面料整体的蓬松性、吸湿性、弹性和手感。
实施例4：一种氨纶超柔服装面料的加工方法，包括如下操作步骤，
步骤A、整经：
1、原料：采用15D氨纶芯纱8；
2、设备：整经机；
3、工作流程：将15D氨纶芯纱8设置于整经机之上，然后通过打结的方式连接纱线；同时采用张力调节器调节各15D氨纶芯纱8的张力，即可将若干5D氨纶芯纱8按规定的长度和宽度平行卷绕在织轴上；
步骤B、织造：
1、原料：FDY经纱4、涤纶包芯纱6以及扁平涤纶纱线；
2、设备：经编机；
3、工作流程：确定组织，布基层1采用斜纹组织，送纱量为2000蜡克，里料层2采用绞纱组织，送纱量为2290蜡克；
步骤C、后处理：
1、材料：由步骤B制得的胚布；
2、设备：平幅水洗机、烘干机和染整机；
3、工作流程：首先采用平福水洗机去除胚布内的碱液和油脂，脱水后将胚布经由烘干机进行烘干处理，随后放入烘干机内烘干，并进行面料的柔软和定幅处理，即可得到成品面料。
实施例5：一种氨纶超柔服装面料的加工方法，与实施例4的不同之处在于：在烘干机前安装有一个长方形状的水池，其中胚布从水池的液面下导过后经初步脱水处理后传输到烘干机内进行烘干处理。同时该水池内清水、柔软剂和渗透剂的比例为100∶3∶1.5。由此采用上述方式进行后整理处理，不仅操作方便，大大提高了生产的质量和效率。
实施例6：一种氨纶超柔服装面料的加工方法，与实施例4的不同之处在于：还包括C1后染整：
1、材料：由步骤B制得的胚布；
2、设备：平幅水洗机、溢流染色机、离心脱水机、烘干机和染整机；
3、工作流程：首先采用平福水洗机去除胚布内的碱液和油脂，脱水后再放入溢流染色机内进行染色处理，溢流染色机的初始温度为45-50℃，并以1-1.5℃/min的速度升温至110-120℃，同时保温运行15-20min；接着将染色后的面料经由离心脱水机进行脱水处理；随后放入烘干机内烘干，并进行面料的柔软和定幅处理，即可得到成品面料。
具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释，其并不是对本发明的限制，本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改，但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。

Claims (3)

1.一种氨纶超柔服装面料，包括布基层（1）和贴附在所述布基层（1）靠近人体肌肤一侧的里料层（2），所述布基层（1）与所述里料层（2）之间设有聚氨酯粘合剂层（3），其特征在于：所述里料层（2）包括FDY经纱（4）、FDY纬纱（5）以及穿设在所述FDY纬纱（5）上且与所述FDY经纱（4）交错缠绕呈“八”字形状的涤纶包芯纱（6）；还包括按顺序依次穿设在所述涤纶包芯纱（6）和FDY经纱（4）之间的扁平144F涤纶纱线（7）。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种氨纶超柔服装面料，其特征在于：所述涤纶包芯纱（6）包括若干氨纶芯纱（8）和编织在所述氨纶芯纱（8）周侧的复合长纤维层（9）。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种氨纶超柔服装面料，其特征在于：所述复合长纤维层（9）为尼龙纤维长丝、粘胶纤维长丝和涤纶纤维长丝中的两种以上。
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