CN106113745A - 一种服装面料及其加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种服装面料及其加工工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106113745A
CN106113745A CN201610459775.4A CN201610459775A CN106113745A CN 106113745 A CN106113745 A CN 106113745A CN 201610459775 A CN201610459775 A CN 201610459775A CN 106113745 A CN106113745 A CN 106113745A
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yarn
washing
layer
warp thread
garment
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姚友根
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Xinchang County Qixing Street Mingsheng Mold Factory
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Xinchang County Qixing Street Mingsheng Mold Factory
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    • B32B5/00Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B27/00Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
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    • B32B5/02Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/06Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer characterised by a fibrous or filamentary layer mechanically connected, e.g. by needling to another layer, e.g. of fibres, of paper
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B9/00Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00
    • B32B9/02Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00 comprising animal or vegetable substances, e.g. cork, bamboo, starch
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B9/04Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00 comprising such particular substance as the main or only constituent of a layer, which is next to another layer of the same or of a different material
    • B32B9/047Layered products comprising a layer of a particular substance not covered by groups B32B11/00 - B32B29/00 comprising such particular substance as the main or only constituent of a layer, which is next to another layer of the same or of a different material made of fibres or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0015Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using fibres of specified chemical or physical nature, e.g. natural silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0043Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by their foraminous structure; Characteristics of the foamed layer or of cellular layers
    • D06N3/0045Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by their foraminous structure; Characteristics of the foamed layer or of cellular layers obtained by applying a ready-made foam layer; obtained by compressing, crinkling or crushing a foam layer, e.g. Kaschierverfahren für Schaumschicht
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/007Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by mechanical or physical treatments
    • D06N3/0077Embossing; Pressing of the surface; Tumbling and crumbling; Cracking; Cooling; Heating, e.g. mirror finish
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2250/00Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/022 layers
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2255/00Coating on the layer surface
    • B32B2255/10Coating on the layer surface on synthetic resin layer or on natural or synthetic rubber layer
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2255/00Coating on the layer surface
    • B32B2255/26Polymeric coating
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0261Polyamide fibres
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
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    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B2307/00Properties of the layers or laminate
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    • B32B2307/558Impact strength, toughness
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00Properties of the layers or laminate
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    • B32B2307/73Hydrophobic
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides

Abstract

本发明公开了一种服装面料及其加工工艺,包括水洗皮层、基布层,所述水洗皮层下方是基布层,水洗皮层边缘和基布层之间为交织单丝相互交织在一起,所述基布层由若干经纱和纬纱交替编织组成,所述纬纱呈多单元连续排列,每个单元为混纱和包芯纱依次平行排列,所述包芯纱包括纱芯和外包纤维层两部分,所述纱芯为锦纶丝,所述外包纤维层为棉纤维层。本发明通过将面料设有水洗皮层和基布层,使得面料整体的强度提高,水洗皮层位于面料最外层使得面料有良好的防水性能;将面料上设有水洗皮层,可以使得面料制作成服装后颜色多样化,水洗皮维护清洗简便,成本低廉。

Description

一种服装面料及其加工工艺
【技术领域】
[0001]本发明涉及服装面料的技术领域,特别是一种服装面料及其加工工艺的技术领域。
【背景技术】
[0002]服装面料是以机织物、针织物和非织造布为基布,采用或不采用热塑性高分子化合物,经过专门机械进行特殊整理加工,用于服装的内层起到补强、挺括等作用的与面料粘合或者非粘合的专用服装辅料。传统的服装面料比较单一而且薄,不能做到有效防水,传统服装用到的真皮比较昂贵,而且保养清洗比较麻烦,色彩单一。由于真皮做衣服的面料比较昂贵且颜色单调化,而复古PU皮革表面凸起的地方褪色显现底色而凹下去的地方则保留原有颜色,无论何种复古水洗皮即使不洗时间长了都会轻微褪色,水洗皮具有真皮的舒适、御寒、柔软,兼具华丽、时尚的风格。
【发明内容】
[0003]本发明的目的就是解决现有技术中的问题,提出一种服装面料,能够使服装面料的防水性能好,刚性和柔韧性适当,价格低廉清洗保养方便,颜色多样化,加工生产简单,制做成本低廉。
[0004]为实现上述目的,本发明提出了 一种服装面料,包括水洗皮层、基布层,所述水洗皮层下方是基布层,水洗皮层边缘和基布层之间为交织单丝相互交织在一起,所述基布层由若干经纱和玮纱交替编织组成,所述玮纱呈多单元连续排列,每个单元为混纱和包芯纱依次平行排列,所述包芯纱包括纱芯和外包纤维层两部分,所述纱芯为锦纶丝,所述外包纤维层为棉纤维层。
[0005]作为优选,所述经纱和玮纱的捻向相反,所述经纱为精梳毛纱,经纱的英支数为60〜64英支,所述玮纱的英支数为45〜52英支。
[0006]作为优选,所述经纱和玮纱具有良好的伸缩性,经纱和玮纱之间垂直交织,所述玮纱的每个单元内的包芯纱数目为9〜12根。
[0007]作为优选,所述外包纤维层包住纱芯的外圆面,纱芯的收缩性高于外包纤维层的收缩性。
[0008]为实现上述目的,本发明提出一种服装面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:依次包括以下步骤:
[0009] I).选取有良好性能的超细纤维增强皮革(S卩PU皮),在PU皮的表面喷涂发泡树脂,喷涂的速度为O〜10米/分,使其表面形成树脂涂料层;
[0010] 2).对涂有树脂涂料层的皮胚用固色剂对其进行固色;
[0011] 3).采用压花机对皮胚进行高温压花,压花机的压印压力位50〜130kg/cm3,压印温度为80〜95°C,得到发泡压花皮胚;
[0012] 4).在底涂树脂涂料的皮胚表面在喷涂水性涂料,然后将皮胚经过加酸进行水洗,水洗温度为20〜35°C,用布条对其表面进行擦拭,将皮胚表层凸起的涂料洗去,将皮胚放入烘箱进行一次烘干,烘干时间为1〜15min,烘干温度为90〜140 °C ;
[0013] 5).对水洗后的皮胚表面涂抹一层保护液,然后再将皮胚放入烘箱进行二次烘干,烘干温度为80〜110°C,烘干时间为3〜8min,得到基础的水洗皮层;
[0014] 6).选用英支数为62英支的精梳毛纱作为经纱,选用英支数为46英支的混纱和48英支的包芯纱作为玮纱;
[0015] 7).对经纱和玮纱进行各自的牵伸、加捻和卷绕形成初步的纱料;
[0016] 8).将经纱和玮纱按照一定顺序通过圆编机将经纱和玮纱相互编织在一起,形成基布层;
[0017] 9).将基布层和步骤5)中的水洗皮层通过缝纫机用交织单丝把它们相互复合在一起形成服装面料。
[0018]本发明的有益效果:本发明通过将服装面料设有水洗皮层和基布层,使得服装面料整体的强度提高,水洗皮层位于服装面料最外层使得服装面料有良好的防水性能;将服装面料上设有水洗皮层,可以使得服装面料制作成服装后颜色多样化,水洗皮维护清洗简便,成本低廉;将基布层上设有不同捻向的经纱和玮纱,可以使得服装面料具有良好的强度;将玮纱设有包芯纱和混纱,使得其结构更加合理化,使得基布的刚性得到加强。
[0019]本发明的特征及优点将通过实施例结合附图进行详细说明。
【附图说明】
[0020]图1是本发明一种服装面料及其加工工艺的结构示意图;
[0021]图2是本发明一种服装面料及其加工工艺的基布层结构示意图;
[0022]图3是本发明一种服装面料及其加工工艺的包芯纱截面示意图。
[0023] 图中:1-水洗皮层、2-基布层、3-经纱、4-玮纱、41-混纱、42-包芯纱、421-纱芯、422-外包纤维层。
【具体实施方式】
[0024]参阅图1、图2和图3,本发明一种服装面料,包括水洗皮层、基布层,所述水洗皮层下方是基布层,水洗皮层边缘和基布层之间为交织单丝相互交织在一起,所述基布层由若干经纱和玮纱交替编织组成,所述玮纱呈多单元连续排列,每个单元为混纱和包芯纱依次平行排列,所述包芯纱包括纱芯和外包纤维层两部分,所述纱芯为锦纶丝,所述外包纤维层为棉纤维层,所述经纱和玮纱的捻向相反,所述经纱为精梳毛纱,经纱的英支数为60〜64英支,所述玮纱的英支数为45〜52英支,所述经纱和玮纱具有良好的伸缩性,经纱和玮纱之间垂直交织,所述玮纱的每个单元内的包芯纱数目为9〜12根,所述外包纤维层包住纱芯的外圆面,纱芯的收缩性高于外包纤维层的收缩性。
[0025]本发明通过将服装面料设有水洗皮层I和基布层2,使得服装面料整体的强度提高,水洗皮层I位于服装面料最外层使得服装面料有良好的防水性能;将服装面料上设有水洗皮层I,可以使得服装面料制作成服装后颜色多样化,水洗皮维护清洗简便,成本低廉;将基布层2上设有不同捻向的经纱3和玮纱4,可以使得服装面料具有良好的强度;将玮纱设有包芯纱42和混纱41,使得其结构更加合理化,使得基布的刚性得到加强;将加工工艺中加入一定配比含量的手感剂、发泡剂、甲基硅油、洗涤剂可以使得水洗皮表面的赃物可以有效地去除,还能使水洗皮上表面光滑度好颜色比较光鲜亮丽。
[0026]上述实施例是对本发明的说明,不是对本发明的限定,任何对本发明简单变换后的方案均属于本发明的保护范围。

Claims (5)

1.一种服装面料,其特征在于:包括水洗皮层(I)、基布层(2),所述水洗皮层(I)下方是基布层(2),水洗皮层(I)边缘和基布层(2)之间为交织单丝相互交织在一起,所述基布层(2)由若干经纱(3)和玮纱(4)交替编织组成,所述玮纱(4)呈多单元连续排列,每个单元为混纱(41)和包芯纱(42)依次平行排列,所述包芯纱(42)包括纱芯(421)和外包纤维层(422)两部分,所述纱芯(421)为锦纶丝,所述外包纤维层(422)为棉纤维层。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种服装面料,其特征在于:所述经纱(3)和玮纱(4)的捻向相反,所述经纱(3)为精梳毛纱,经纱(3)的英支数为60〜64英支,所述玮纱(4)的英支数为45〜52英支。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种服装面料,其特征在于:所述经纱(3)和玮纱(4)具有良好的伸缩性,经纱(3)和玮纱(4)之间垂直交织,所述玮纱(4)的每个单元内的包芯纱(42)数目为9〜I对艮。
4.如权利要求1所述的一种服装面料,其特征在于:所述外包纤维层(422)包住纱芯(421)的外圆面,纱芯(421)的收缩性高于外包纤维层(422)的收缩性。
5.一种服装面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:依次包括以下步骤: .1).选取有良好性能的超细纤维增强皮革(即PU皮),在HJ皮的表面喷涂发泡树脂,喷涂的速度为O〜10米/分,使其表面形成树脂涂料层; . 2).对涂有树脂涂料层的皮胚用固色剂对其进行固色; .3).采用压花机对皮胚进行高温压花,压花机的压印压力位50〜130kg/cm3,压印温度为80〜95°C,得到发泡压花皮胚; .4).在底涂树脂涂料的皮胚表面在喷涂水性涂料,然后将皮胚经过加酸进行水洗,水洗温度为20〜35°C,用布条对其表面进行擦拭,将皮胚表层凸起的涂料洗去,将皮胚放入烘箱进行一次烘干,烘干时间为1〜15min,烘干温度为90〜140 °C ; .5).对水洗后的皮胚表面涂抹一层保护液,然后再将皮胚放入烘箱进行二次烘干,烘干温度为80〜110°C,烘干时间为3〜8min,得到基础的水洗皮层; . 6).选用英支数为62英支的精梳毛纱作为经纱,选用英支数为46英支的混纱和48英支的包芯纱作为玮纱; .7).对经纱和玮纱进行各自的牵伸、加捻和卷绕形成初步的纱料; .8).将经纱和玮纱按照一定顺序通过圆编机将经纱和玮纱相互编织在一起,形成基布层; .9).将基布层和步骤5)中的水洗皮层通过缝纫机用交织单丝把它们相互复合在一起形成服装面料。
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