CN108457082B - Processing method for improving non-ironing property of tide crosslinking finishing yarn-dyed fabric - Google Patents
Processing method for improving non-ironing property of tide crosslinking finishing yarn-dyed fabric Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/61—Liquid ammonia
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/73—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
- D06M11/76—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
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- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile dyeing and finishing, and particularly relates to a processing method for improving the non-ironing property of a damp cross-linking finishing yarn-dyed fabric. The process flow is singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → tide cross-linking rolling → tide state cross-linking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packaging; wherein the baking is carried out on a baking machine, the baking temperature is 120-140 ℃, and the baking time is 3-5 min. The invention creatively adopts twice crosslinking, the fabric is more stable in water shrinkage and thermal shrinkage, the preshrinking process is omitted, and the production cost of the fabric is reduced; the baking process is introduced into the wet crosslinking finishing process flow, the stacking time of the wet crosslinking finishing is shortened by 6 to 12 hours, and the use amount of resin and catalyst is reduced by 20 to 50 percent compared with the traditional wet crosslinking process; the non-ironing property of the yarn-dyed fabric subjected to the moisture crosslinking finishing is improved by 0.2-0.5 grade, the yarn-dyed fabric is washable for 50 times, and the non-ironing property is more than 4.0 grade.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile dyeing and finishing, and particularly relates to a processing method for improving the non-ironing property of a damp cross-linking finishing yarn-dyed fabric.
Background
In the general moisture crosslinking finishing processing technology, the consumption of moisture crosslinking resin is high, the fabric needs to be rolled and piled for 24 hours, the processing cost of the fabric is high, the piling time is long, the hand feeling is smooth and hard, and the fabric is not easy to be firmly bonded when being sewn and rolled; the traditional moisture crosslinking finishing fabric is subjected to one-time crosslinking in a moisture state, so that the dry crease-resistant effect is poor, and the invention creatively improves the moisture crosslinking process to improve the non-ironing property.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provides a processing method for improving the non-ironing property of a moisture crosslinking finished yarn-dyed fabric. The method is stable and reliable, has high non-ironing grade and good hand feeling, reduces the consumption of resin and catalyst compared with the traditional moisture crosslinking process, and reduces the production cost of the fabric.
The processing method for improving the non-ironing property of the moisture crosslinking finished yarn-dyed fabric comprises the process flows of singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → moisture crosslinking padding → moisture state crosslinking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packaging; wherein the baking is carried out on a baking machine, the baking temperature is 120-140 ℃, and the baking time is 3-5 min.
Wherein:
the pre-softening process is carried out on a tenter, and the used auxiliary agents and the used amount are as follows: the water-absorbing softening agent SEH-0215-30 g/l; the temperature of a drying room of the tenter is 90-110 ℃, and the speed of the tenter is 50-70 m/min.
The step of carrying out moisture crosslinking and material rolling on a tenter, wherein the temperature of a drying room is 70-110 ℃, and the cropping temperature and the cropping humidity are respectively controlled between 32-40 ℃ and 6-8%; the used damp cross-linking rolling material auxiliary agent and the dosage are as follows: 100-210 g/L of resin AMC, 50-105 g/L of catalyst LRMC, 15-30 g/L of fiber protective agent SF-P, 110-30 g/L of softening agent CS-and 1-3 g/L of penetrating agent WA-X.
And the moisture crosslinking procedure is to roll and wrap the fabric during the fabric falling in the moisture crosslinking and rolling procedure, and place the fabric in a constant temperature environment of 32-40 ℃ for moisture crosslinking reaction for 12-18 hours.
The primary washing and the secondary washing are both carried out on a washing machine, the washing machine is provided with 8 washing tanks, the temperature of the primary washing and the temperature of the secondary washing are both 60-90 ℃, and during the primary washing, 10-25 g/l of soda is added into the first washing tank.
The auxiliary agents and the dosage used in the tentering process are as follows: softener SMI-5020-30 g/l; the cropping humidity is controlled to be 2-5%.
Singeing and desizing processes are carried out on a combined singeing and desizing machine, a singeing fire hole is cut and burnt, the flame intensity is 12-14 mbar, the plus and minus sides of the fabric are singed, and the plus and minus sides are singed first and then the plus side is singed; the desizing adopts an enzyme desizing mode, and the dosage of desizing enzyme is 10-15 g/L.
The mercerization adopts conventional mercerization finishing, the concentration of mercerization alkali liquor is 23-26 baume degrees, and the pH value of the mercerized yarn-dyed fabric is 6-7.
And liquid ammonia finishing is carried out by adopting a conventional liquid ammonia finishing method, and the speed of the vehicle is 40-55 m/min.
The invention creatively adopts two times of crosslinking, namely the wet crosslinking and the dry crosslinking, so that the resin can fully react, and the wearing flatness effect of the fabric under the wet state and the dry state is better; after twice crosslinking, the fabric is more stable in water shrinkage and thermal shrinkage, a pre-shrinking process is omitted, and the production cost of the fabric is reduced.
The water-absorbing softening agent SEH-02 used in the pre-softening process is produced by Ziboluri fine chemical engineering Co., Ltd, and the auxiliary agents used in the damp-crosslinking rolling process are as follows: the resin AMC is produced by high chemical engineering (China) company Limited, and the catalyst LRMC, the fiber protective agent SF-P, the softening agent CS-1, the penetrating agent WA-X, the softening agent SMI-50 used in tentering and setting, and the like are all produced by Ruri fine chemical engineering.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the fabric is creatively crosslinked twice, namely, the moisture crosslinking and the baking crosslinking in a dry state, so that the resin can fully react, the wearing flatness effect of the fabric in the moisture state and the dry state is better, the fabric after the secondary crosslinking can be washed for 50 times, and the non-ironing property is kept above grade 4.
(2) The baking process is introduced into the wet crosslinking finishing process flow, the stacking time of the wet crosslinking finishing is shortened by 6 to 12 hours, and the use amount of resin and catalyst is reduced by 20 to 50 percent compared with the traditional wet crosslinking process.
(3) The non-ironing property of the yarn-dyed fabric subjected to the moisture crosslinking finishing is improved by 0.2-0.5 grade, and the non-ironing property reaches the best level at present on the premise that other mechanical properties of the fabric are qualified.
(4) And the fabric is more stable in water shrinkage and thermal shrinkage by twice crosslinking, a preshrinking process is omitted, and the production cost of the fabric is reduced.
(5) The method is stable and reliable, has high non-ironing grade and good hand feeling, reduces the consumption of resin and catalyst compared with the traditional moisture crosslinking process, and reduces the production cost of the fabric.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described below with reference to examples.
Example 1
Blue oxford yarn-dyed fabric: the warp and weft yarns are pure cotton 80s two-ply yarns, the warp density is 160 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 72 pieces/inch.
The production flow comprises the following steps: singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → tide cross-linking rolling → tide state cross-linking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packing.
Singeing and desizing: the process is carried out on a combined machine of burning and desizing, wherein the burning is carried out during the singeing, the flame intensity is 14mbar, the plus and minus singeing is carried out on the fabric, the minus side is firstly carried out and then the plus side is carried out, the desizing adopts an enzyme desizing mode, and the dosage of desizing enzyme is 15 g/L.
Mercerizing: the conventional mercerizing finishing is adopted, the concentration of mercerizing alkali liquor is 26 baume degrees, and the pH value of the mercerized yarn-dyed fabric is 6.9.
Liquid ammonia process: the conventional liquid ammonia finishing method is adopted, and the vehicle speed is 40 m/min.
The pre-softening process is carried out on a tenter, the dosage of the softening agent SEH-02 is 30g/l, the temperatures of eight drying rooms of the tenter are respectively 92 ℃, 103 ℃, 108 ℃, 110 ℃, 109 ℃, 102 ℃ and 94 ℃, and the speed is 51 m/min.
The process of the moisture crosslinking rolling material is carried out on a tenter, the temperature of eight drying rooms of the tenter is respectively 81 ℃, 93 ℃, 109 ℃, 110 ℃, 108 ℃, 101 ℃ and 79 ℃, the doffing temperature is controlled to be about 39.5 ℃, the humidity is about 7.9 percent, and the used auxiliary agents and the use amount are as follows: 210g/L of resin AMC, 105g/L of catalyst LRMC, 30g/L of fiber protective agent SF-P, 125 g/L of softener CS-produced by Ruhry fine chemical industry and 3g/L of penetrating agent WA-X.
The moisture crosslinking procedure is to roll and wrap the fabric when the fabric is dropped in the moisture crosslinking material rolling procedure, and the fabric is placed in a constant temperature environment of 40 ℃ for moisture crosslinking reaction for 18 hours.
And (3) carrying out damp cross-linking rolling and damp cross-linking, and then carrying out baking and drying cross-linking, wherein the actual baking temperature is 139 +/-1 ℃, and the baking time is 3 min.
The primary washing and the secondary washing are carried out on a washing machine, the washing machine is provided with 8 washing tanks, the temperature of the primary washing and the temperature of the secondary washing are both 78-90 ℃, and 25g/l of soda is added into the first washing tank during the primary washing.
When tentering and setting, softener SMI-5030 g/l is added, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be about 4.5%.
The test result of the finished fabric is as follows: the non-ironing property (AATCC124 method) is improved from 3.7 grade of the original conventional moisture crosslinking process to 4.2 grade, and the non-ironing property is 4 grade after washing for 50 times; the crease recovery angle is increased from 247 degrees of the original conventional moisture crosslinking process to 263.0 degrees; the shrinkage is within 0 to-1.2 percent, and the difference is small; the breaking strength, tearing strength and color are not much different from those of the conventional process; compared with the conventional process, the fabric has the advantages of good hand feeling, thickness, fluffiness, smoothness and skin friendliness; the fitting lining test is firmer than the conventional process.
Example 2
White-bottom thin blue strip plain woven yarn-dyed fabric: the warp direction adopts pure cotton 40s yarns, the weft direction adopts pure cotton 30s yarns, the warp direction density is 120 pieces/inch, and the weft direction density is 65 pieces/inch.
The production flow comprises the following steps: singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → tide cross-linking rolling → tide state cross-linking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packing.
Singeing and desizing: the process is carried out on a combined machine of burning and desizing, wherein the burning is carried out during the singeing, the flame intensity is 12mbar, the plus and minus singeing is carried out on the fabric, the minus side is firstly carried out and then the plus side is carried out, the desizing adopts an enzyme desizing mode, and the dosage of desizing enzyme is 10 g/L.
Mercerizing: the conventional mercerizing finishing is adopted, the concentration of mercerizing alkali liquor is 24 Baume degrees, and the pH value of the mercerized yarn-dyed fabric is 6.1.
Liquid ammonia process: the conventional liquid ammonia finishing method is adopted, and the vehicle speed is 55 m/min.
The pre-softening process is carried out on a tenter, the dosage of the softening agent SEH-02 is 15g/l, the eight drying rooms of the tenter are at 90 ℃, 101 ℃, 105 ℃, 107 ℃, 110 ℃, 106 ℃, 100 ℃ and 91 ℃, and the speed is 70 m/min.
The process of the moisture crosslinking rolling material is carried out on a tenter, the temperature of eight drying rooms of the tenter is respectively 70 ℃, 83 ℃, 100 ℃, 105 ℃, 101 ℃, 95 ℃ and 74 ℃, the doffing temperature is controlled at 32.3 ℃, the humidity is 6 percent, and the used auxiliary agents and the used amount are as follows: 100g/L of resin AMC, 50g/L of catalyst LRMC, 15g/L of fiber protective agent SF-P, 110g/L of softener CS-produced by Ruhry fine chemical industry and 1g/L of penetrating agent WA-X.
The moisture-state cross-linking procedure is to roll and wrap the fabric when the fabric is dropped in the moisture-state cross-linking material rolling procedure, and then the fabric is placed in a constant-temperature environment of 32.5 ℃ for moisture-state cross-linking reaction for 12 hours.
And (3) performing damp cross-linking rolling and damp cross-linking, and then baking at the actual baking temperature of 120 ℃ for 5 min.
The primary washing and the secondary washing are carried out on a washing machine, the washing machine is provided with 8 washing tanks, the temperature of the primary washing and the temperature of the secondary washing are both 60-85 ℃, and 10g/l of soda is added into the first washing tank during the primary washing.
When tentering and setting, softener SMI-5020 g/l is added, and the doffing humidity is controlled to be about 2%.
The test result of the finished fabric is as follows: the non-ironing property (AATCC124 method) is improved from 3.5 grade of the original conventional moisture crosslinking process to 4.0 grade, and the grade is kept at 4 grade after 50 times of water washing; the crease recovery angle is increased from 239 degrees to 247.0 degrees in the conventional moisture crosslinking process; the shrinkage is within 0 to-0.8 percent, and the difference is small; the breaking strength, tearing strength and color are not much different from those of the conventional process; compared with the conventional process, the fabric has the advantages of less slippery hand feeling, good softness and skin-friendly property and firm lining.
Example 3
Small purple check 2/1 twill yarn-dyed fabric: the warp direction adopts 50s of pure cotton yarns, the weft direction adopts 100s of pure cotton yarns, the warp direction density is 140 yarns/inch, and the weft direction density is 90 yarns/inch.
The production flow comprises the following steps: singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → tide cross-linking rolling → tide state cross-linking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packing.
Singeing and desizing: the process is carried out on a combined machine of burning and desizing, wherein the burning is carried out during the singeing, the flame intensity is 13mbar, the plus and minus singeing is carried out on the fabric, the minus side is firstly carried out and then the plus side is carried out, the desizing adopts an enzyme desizing mode, and the dosage of desizing enzyme is 12 g/L.
Mercerizing: the conventional mercerizing finishing is adopted, the concentration of mercerizing alkali liquor is 23 baume degrees, and the pH value of the mercerized yarn-dyed fabric is 6.3.
Liquid ammonia process: the conventional liquid ammonia finishing method is adopted, and the vehicle speed is 50 m/min.
The pre-softening process is carried out on a tenter, the dosage of the softening agent SEH-02 is 20g/l, the eight drying rooms of the tenter are 93 ℃, 102 ℃, 105 ℃, 106 ℃, 108 ℃, 102 ℃ and 92 ℃, and the speed is 65 m/min.
The process of the moisture crosslinking rolling is carried out on a tenter, the temperature of eight drying rooms of the tenter is 72 ℃, 87 ℃, 102 ℃, 108 ℃, 110 ℃, 106 ℃, 92 ℃ and 71 ℃, the doffing temperature is controlled at 35 ℃ and the humidity is 6.8 percent, and the used auxiliary agents and the used amount are as follows: 130g/L of resin AMC, 65g/L of catalyst LRMC, 20g/L of fiber protective agent SF-P, 115 g/L of softener CS-115 g/L produced by Ruiry fine chemical industry and 2g/L of penetrating agent WA-X.
The moisture crosslinking procedure is to roll and wrap the fabric when the fabric is dropped in the moisture crosslinking material rolling procedure, and then the fabric is placed in a constant temperature environment of 35 ℃ for moisture crosslinking reaction for 15 hours.
And (3) performing damp cross-linking rolling and damp cross-linking, and then baking at the actual baking temperature of 130 ℃ for 4 min.
The primary washing and the secondary washing are carried out on a washing machine, the washing machine is provided with 8 washing tanks, the temperature of the primary washing and the temperature of the secondary washing are both 65-80 ℃, and 15g/l of soda is added into the first washing tank during the primary washing.
And (3) adding a softening agent SMI-50 during tentering and setting, wherein the dosage is 25g/l, and the cropping humidity is controlled to be about 2.5%.
The test result of the finished fabric is as follows: the non-ironing property (AATCC124 method) is improved from 3.8 grade of the original conventional moisture crosslinking process to 4.0 grade, and the grade is still kept at 4.0 grade after 50 times of water washing; the recovery angle of the wrinkles is increased from 243 degrees to 251 degrees of the original conventional moisture crosslinking process; the shrinkage is within 0 to-1.2 percent, and the difference is small; the breaking strength, tearing strength and color are not much different from those of the conventional process; compared with the conventional process, the fabric has the advantages of less slippery hand feeling, good softness and skin-friendly property; the fitting lining test is firmer than the conventional process.
Claims (4)
1. A processing method for improving the non-ironing property of a damp cross-linking finishing yarn-dyed fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the process flow is singeing → desizing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → pre-softening → tide cross-linking rolling → tide state cross-linking → baking → primary washing → secondary washing → tentering → finished product inspection and packaging; wherein the baking is carried out on a baking machine, the baking temperature is 120-140 ℃, and the baking time is 3-5 min;
wherein:
the step of carrying out moisture crosslinking and material rolling on a tenter, wherein the temperature of a drying room is 70-110 ℃, and the cropping temperature and the cropping humidity are respectively controlled between 32-40 ℃ and 6-8%; the used damp cross-linking rolling material auxiliary agent and the dosage are as follows: 100-210 g/L of resin AMC, 50-105 g/L of catalyst LRMC, 15-30 g/L of fiber protective agent SF-P, 110-30 g/L of softening agent CS-and 1-3 g/L of penetrating agent WA-X;
and the moisture crosslinking procedure is to roll and wrap the fabric during the fabric falling in the moisture crosslinking and rolling procedure, and place the fabric in a constant temperature environment of 32-40 ℃ for moisture crosslinking reaction for 12-18 hours.
2. The processing method for improving the easy-care property of the damp cross-linking finished yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the pre-softening process is carried out on a tenter, and the used auxiliary agents and the used amount are as follows: the water-absorbing softening agent SEH-0215-30 g/l; the temperature of a drying room of the tenter is 90-110 ℃, and the speed of the tenter is 50-70 m/min.
3. The processing method for improving the easy-care property of the damp cross-linking finished yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the primary washing and the secondary washing are both carried out on a washing machine, the washing machine is provided with 8 washing tanks, the temperature of the primary washing and the temperature of the secondary washing are both 60-90 ℃, and during the primary washing, 10-25 g/l of soda is added into the first washing tank.
4. The processing method for improving the easy-care property of the damp cross-linking finished yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the auxiliary agents and the dosage used in the tentering process are as follows: softener SMI-5020-30 g/l; the cropping humidity is controlled to be 2-5%.
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CN101942752A (en) * | 2009-07-09 | 2011-01-12 | 天津田歌纺织有限公司 | Finishing method for non-ironing moisture-absorption soil-release fabric |
CN105821657A (en) * | 2016-05-13 | 2016-08-03 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Non-ironing fabric and preparing method thereof |
CN107299527A (en) * | 2017-06-23 | 2017-10-27 | 宁波市海曙区伊万卡农业科技有限公司 | A kind of processing method of non-ironing underlinen fabric |
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