CN107881764A - 一种面料加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种面料加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN107881764A
CN107881764A CN201711195210.0A CN201711195210A CN107881764A CN 107881764 A CN107881764 A CN 107881764A CN 201711195210 A CN201711195210 A CN 201711195210A CN 107881764 A CN107881764 A CN 107881764A
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fabric
parts
drying
processing technology
weight
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王兆国
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种面料加工工艺，其经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工。通过本发明的面料加工工艺制得的面料具有良好的保暖性、防水性、防油性和其它附加的功特性，并且由此制得的面料更加柔软，手感更好。

Description

一种面料加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织生产技术领域，特别地，涉及一种面料加工工艺。
背景技术
在生活水平日渐提高的现代社会，人们对于服装的要求特别是冬季服装的要求早已不再停留在御寒保暖的阶段，更加要求其兼备保温性和轻量性。以往的起毛织物一般为涤纶或棉涤交编的起毛织物，其重量要比普通面料厚重许多，而且手感不好；而在使用氨纶以及氨纶类复合纱与涤纶或棉涤交编时，其厚度与克重会更大，成本也十分昂贵，并且厚重感太过明显，无法实现轻量、蓬松、舒适的目标。
为了达到轻量保暖的目的，从纤维原料来看，一般考虑采用中空纤维，这是由于其可以确保成品具有质量轻、保暖性、透气性好等优良性能。现有技术中的保温织物，通常通过采用二重组织、双层组织或多层组织来达到轻量保温的效果，根据JISL 1096的测试克罗值为0.5～0.8，但这样的面料（机织物）弹性欠佳，穿着舒适性会受到影响。在此基础上，考虑到独特的风格及舒适的接触感，亦有人提出将中空纤维应用到摇粒绒产品上。虽然其轻量及保暖性得到了保证，但是弹性不足。
如果直接采用具有一定中空度的全牵伸丝（FDY）进行编织的话，虽然纤维的中空度可以很好地保持，但这样的产品手感偏硬；而为了改善手感，将中空FDY进行假捻后再使用的话，假捻时纱线的中空度又会遭到破坏，影响最终产品的保暖性。
另外，随着经济的高速发展，纺织品的加工技术也有了长足的进步。为了满足人们生活中的防水防油防污的需要，市场上出现了各种各样的“三防”产品。在纺织品领域中，虽然现有技术中所采取的手段有所不同，都取得了一定的“三防”效果，但受所选择的加工原料，或者加工方法的影响，都仍然存在耐久性差、或者不够耐摩的问题。如今的市场，要求较为苛刻，针对多变的环境，对产品的性能提出了新的要求，普通的“三防”产品已经不能够满足市场的需求。
发明内容
为解决上述问题，本发明提供了一种面料加工工艺。通过本发明的面料加工工艺制得的面料具有良好的保暖性、防水性、防油性和其它附加的功特性，并且由此制得的面料更加柔软，手感更好。
本发明为解决上述技术问题所采用的技术方案是一种面料加工工艺，其经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工；所述具体步骤如下：
（1） 初加工：选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与50D/24F高收缩超细涤锦复合丝编织为正面，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层，选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与100D/144F涤纶低弹丝为反面，先对正面拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、烫光，进行编织制成坯布，将坯布进行漂白，送入平幅水洗机进行水洗，水中添加1.8-2g/l的石碱、1.1-1.3g/l的脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚，将水洗后的半成品送入染缸中进行碱减量，加入18-20g/L的烧碱，之后降温并排液，先用热水洗，再用0.6-0.8g/L的乙酸溶液进行洗涤，最后再用常温水进行冷洗，并烘干，所述烘干温度为93-97℃，所述烘干时间为25-30min；
（2）调制上色材料：按照重量份包括如下组份：选择15-20份的特氟龙，5-8份的二叔丁基过氧化物，1-3份的无水偏硅酸钠，0.3-0.4份的脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺，1-2份的催化剂，2-2.5份的乙酸，2.2-2.5份的三乙醇胺，1-1.5份的去油剂，2-2.2份的分散剂，其余全为水；
（3）上色：将漂白烘干的面料放入步骤（2）配制的涂层材料中浸渍，所述浸渍时间为35-40min；浴比1：11-12，升温至45-48℃时加入分散染料，以1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至65-75℃，之后以1.0℃/min 的升温速率升温至110-120℃，保温45min，之后以2.0-2.2℃/min的降温速率降温，降温至65-75℃时排液，再加入上述混合料总重量的0.3-0.5%的ZJ-Z01起毛剂，在常温下运行20-25min后取出；
（4）烘干：将浸渍后的面料蒸化烘干，所述蒸化烘干温度为125-135℃，所述烘干时间为20-25min；
（5）清洗：将烘干后的面料进行清洗；
（6）高温干燥：将水洗后的涂层面料高温干燥，干燥时间为40-50min，干燥温度为100-110℃；刷面料反面，刷5-6遍，轻刷多刷，刷好后，梳反面2遍，梳透梳匀，梳后剪去长毛浮毛，剪毛高度为1.8-2.0mm，剪毛后送摇粒筒进行摇粒，时间25-30min，摇粒后马上进行理布打卷；
（7）包装：将摇粒并打卷后的半成品按18-20m/min的速率经过定型机进行定型，浸轧1.8g/L的亲水性柔软剂，得到成品，包装。
优选的，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层进行编织制成坯布时，先对该中间层进行压光处理，然后在其表面上喷洒三层模量为50-60N/m2的PU树脂混合物，每层的厚度为5-10μm，再进行印刷加工，其中各层PU树脂混合物包括如下成分：PU树脂100重量份、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺35-40重量份，十二烷基苯磺酸钠4-6重量份，色浆4-8重量份。
在上述任一方案中优选的是，所述拉毛采用拉毛机进行，压力辊的压力控制在8.5-9.5kg，转速控制在820-880r/min。
在上述任一方案中优选的是，所述定型时的定型温度为160-165℃，超喂为20%。
在上述任一方案中优选的是，所述清洗的步骤为调制清洗液的PH值为7-7.5，水温为20℃-25℃，将面料浸泡8-10min后进行清洗，轻轻揉洗，洗涤时间不超过3-5min。
在上述任一方案中优选的是，所述面料的蓬松系数为 4.5-5.5cm3/g、克重为180-220g/㎡； 保温克罗值为1.3-1.5。
本发明是根据多年的实际应用实践和经验所得，采用最佳的技术手段和措施来进行组合优化，获得了最优的技术效果，并非是技术特征的简单叠加和拼凑，因此本发明具有显著的意义。
本发明的有益效果：
1.本发明的面料加工工艺不需复杂的加工过程，工艺流程简单易控制，采用特别的面布组织结构，面料质量轻，透气保暖，相对常规的保暖面料的生产，重量轻薄，工序少，工艺简单。
2.本发明的面料加工工艺生产难度降低，易掌控，质量稳定，由于面料轻薄，蓬松保暖，正反面具有不同的风格，还可以做两面穿面料，具有很强的实用性。
3.本发明的面料加工工艺所制得的面料具有优越的蓬松度、坚韧度、轻量感、弹性，手感柔软，并且面料组织厚实、保暖、尺寸稳定性好、不易脱散；采用了特殊制作的中间层材料，使面料具有优异的防水、防污和防油性能。
具体实施方式
以下结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步描述，但要求保护的范围并不局限于此。
实施例1
一种面料加工工艺，其经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工；所述具体步骤如下：
（1） 初加工：选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与50D/24F高收缩超细涤锦复合丝编织为正面，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层，选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与100D/144F涤纶低弹丝为反面，先对正面拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、烫光，进行编织制成坯布，将坯布进行漂白，送入平幅水洗机进行水洗，水中添加1.8g/l的石碱、1.3g/l的脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚，将水洗后的半成品送入染缸中进行碱减量，加入18g/L的烧碱，之后降温并排液，先用热水洗，再用0.8g/L的乙酸溶液进行洗涤，最后再用常温水进行冷洗，并烘干，所述烘干温度为93℃，所述烘干时间为30min；
（2）调制上色材料：按照重量份包括如下组份：选择15份的特氟龙 8份的二叔丁基过氧化物，1份的无水偏硅酸钠，0.4份的脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺，1份的催化剂，2.5份的乙酸，2.2份的三乙醇胺，1.5份的去油剂，2份的分散剂，其余全为水；
（3）上色：将漂白烘干的面料放入步骤（2）配制的涂层材料中浸渍，所述浸渍时间为40min；浴比1：11，升温至48℃时加入分散染料，以1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至65℃，之后以1.0℃/min 的升温速率升温至120℃，保温45min，之后以2.0℃/min的降温速率降温，降温至75℃时排液，再加入上述混合料总重量的0.3%的ZJ-Z01起毛剂，在常温下运行25min后取出；
（4）烘干：将浸渍后的面料蒸化烘干，所述蒸化烘干温度为125℃，所述烘干时间为25min；
（5）清洗：将烘干后的面料进行清洗；
（6）高温干燥：将水洗后的涂层面料高温干燥，干燥时间为40min，干燥温度为110℃；刷面料反面，刷5遍，轻刷多刷，刷好后，梳反面2遍，梳透梳匀，梳后剪去长毛浮毛，剪毛高度为2.0mm，剪毛后送摇粒筒进行摇粒，时间25min，摇粒后马上进行理布打卷；
（7）包装：将摇粒并打卷后的半成品按20m/min的速率经过定型机进行定型，浸轧1.8g/L的亲水性柔软剂，得到成品，包装。
选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层进行编织制成坯布时，先对该中间层进行压光处理，然后在其表面上喷洒三层模量为50N/m2的PU树脂混合物，每层的厚度为10μm，再进行印刷加工，其中各层PU树脂混合物包括如下成分：PU树脂100重量份、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺35重量份，十二烷基苯磺酸钠6重量份，色浆4重量份。
所述拉毛采用拉毛机进行，压力辊的压力控制在9.5kg，转速控制在820r/min。
所述定型时的定型温度为165℃，超喂为20%。
所述清洗的步骤为调制清洗液的PH值为7，水温为25℃，将面料浸泡8min后进行清洗，轻轻揉洗，洗涤时间不超过5min。
所述面料的蓬松系数为 4.5cm3/g、克重为220g/㎡； 保温克罗值为1.3。
实施例2
一种面料加工工艺，其经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工；所述具体步骤如下：
（1） 初加工：选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与50D/24F高收缩超细涤锦复合丝编织为正面，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层，选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与100D/144F涤纶低弹丝为反面，先对正面拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、烫光，进行编织制成坯布，将坯布进行漂白，送入平幅水洗机进行水洗，水中添加2g/l的石碱、1.1g/l的脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚，将水洗后的半成品送入染缸中进行碱减量，加入20g/L的烧碱，之后降温并排液，先用热水洗，再用0.6g/L的乙酸溶液进行洗涤，最后再用常温水进行冷洗，并烘干，所述烘干温度为97℃，所述烘干时间为25min；
（2）调制上色材料：按照重量份包括如下组份：选择20份的特氟龙，5份的二叔丁基过氧化物，3份的无水偏硅酸钠，0.3份的脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺，2份的催化剂，2份的乙酸，2.5份的三乙醇胺，1份的去油剂，2.2份的分散剂，其余全为水；
（3）上色：将漂白烘干的面料放入步骤（2）配制的涂层材料中浸渍，所述浸渍时间为35min；浴比1：12，升温至45℃时加入分散染料，以1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至75℃，之后以1.0℃/min 的升温速率升温至110℃，保温45min，之后以2.2℃/min的降温速率降温，降温至65℃时排液，再加入上述混合料总重量的0.5%的ZJ-Z01起毛剂，在常温下运行20min后取出；
（4）烘干：将浸渍后的面料蒸化烘干，所述蒸化烘干温度为135℃，所述烘干时间为20min；
（5）清洗：将烘干后的面料进行清洗；
（6）高温干燥：将水洗后的涂层面料高温干燥，干燥时间为50min，干燥温度为100℃；刷面料反面，刷6遍，轻刷多刷，刷好后，梳反面2遍，梳透梳匀，梳后剪去长毛浮毛，剪毛高度为1.8mm，剪毛后送摇粒筒进行摇粒，时间30min，摇粒后马上进行理布打卷；
（7）包装：将摇粒并打卷后的半成品按18m/min的速率经过定型机进行定型，浸轧1.8g/L的亲水性柔软剂，得到成品，包装。
选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层进行编织制成坯布时，先对该中间层进行压光处理，然后在其表面上喷洒三层模量为60N/m2的PU树脂混合物，每层的厚度为5μm，再进行印刷加工，其中各层PU树脂混合物包括如下成分：PU树脂100重量份、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺40重量份，十二烷基苯磺酸钠4重量份，色浆8重量份。
所述拉毛采用拉毛机进行，压力辊的压力控制在8.5kg，转速控制在880r/min。
所述定型时的定型温度为160℃，超喂为20%。
所述清洗的步骤为调制清洗液的PH值为7.5，水温为20℃，将面料浸泡10min后进行清洗，轻轻揉洗，洗涤时间不超过3min。
所述面料的蓬松系数为 5.5cm3/g、克重为180g/㎡； 保温克罗值为1.5。
实施例3
一种面料加工工艺，其经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工；所述具体步骤如下：
（1） 初加工：选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与50D/24F高收缩超细涤锦复合丝编织为正面，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层，选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与100D/144F涤纶低弹丝为反面，先对正面拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、烫光，进行编织制成坯布，将坯布进行漂白，送入平幅水洗机进行水洗，水中添加1.9g/l的石碱、1.2g/l的脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚，将水洗后的半成品送入染缸中进行碱减量，加入19g/L的烧碱，之后降温并排液，先用热水洗，再用0.7g/L的乙酸溶液进行洗涤，最后再用常温水进行冷洗，并烘干，所述烘干温度为95℃，所述烘干时间为28min；
（2）调制上色材料：按照重量份包括如下组份：选择18份的特氟龙，7份的二叔丁基过氧化物，2份的无水偏硅酸钠，0.35份的脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺，1.5份的催化剂，2.3份的乙酸，2.4份的三乙醇胺，1.3份的去油剂，2.1份的分散剂，其余全为水；
（3）上色：将漂白烘干的面料放入步骤（2）配制的涂层材料中浸渍，所述浸渍时间为38min；浴比1：11，升温至46℃时加入分散染料，以1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至70℃，之后以1.0℃/min 的升温速率升温至115℃，保温45min，之后以2.1℃/min的降温速率降温，降温至70℃时排液，再加入上述混合料总重量的0.4%的ZJ-Z01起毛剂，在常温下运行23min后取出；
（4）烘干：将浸渍后的面料蒸化烘干，所述蒸化烘干温度为130℃，所述烘干时间为23min；
（5）清洗：将烘干后的面料进行清洗；
（6）高温干燥：将水洗后的涂层面料高温干燥，干燥时间为45min，干燥温度为105℃；刷面料反面，刷6遍，轻刷多刷，刷好后，梳反面2遍，梳透梳匀，梳后剪去长毛浮毛，剪毛高度为1.9mm，剪毛后送摇粒筒进行摇粒，时间28min，摇粒后马上进行理布打卷；
（7）包装：将摇粒并打卷后的半成品按19m/min的速率经过定型机进行定型，浸轧1.8g/L的亲水性柔软剂，得到成品，包装。
选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层进行编织制成坯布时，先对该中间层进行压光处理，然后在其表面上喷洒三层模量为55N/m2的PU树脂混合物，每层的厚度为8μm，再进行印刷加工，其中各层PU树脂混合物包括如下成分：PU树脂100重量份、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺38重量份，十二烷基苯磺酸钠5重量份，色浆7重量份。
所述拉毛采用拉毛机进行，压力辊的压力控制在9kg，转速控制在850r/min。
所述定型时的定型温度为163℃，超喂为20%。
所述清洗的步骤为调制清洗液的PH值为7.3，水温为23℃，将面料浸泡9min后进行清洗，轻轻揉洗，洗涤时间不超过4min。
所述面料的蓬松系数为 5cm3/g、克重为200g/㎡； 保温克罗值为1.4。
上述实施例中，所述分散染料由以下质量份数配方成分组成：
甲基3-5份、分散蓝6-8份、线型饱和聚酯树脂60-100份、脂肪醇烷氧基15-25份、苯代氨基树脂15-25份、氰基15-25份、聚硅氧烷5-7份、分散黄6-10份、水杨酸钠1-2份、氯碘混合物4-6份、白漆10-12份。其制备方法包括如下步骤：（1）称量配比，将所有原料按照比例进行称量，并分别进行保存备用；（2）于步骤（1）得到的混合染料中加入水，且混合染料和水的重量用量比为1∶13，混合得到混合浆液；将步骤（2）得到的混合浆液喷雾干燥，即得。
本发明的面料加工工艺不需复杂的加工过程，工艺流程简单易控制，采用特别的面布组织结构，面料质量轻，透气保暖，相对常规的保暖面料的生产，重量轻薄，工序少，工艺简单。
本发明的面料加工工艺生产难度降低，易掌控，质量稳定，由于面料轻薄，蓬松保暖，正反面具有不同的风格，还可以做两面穿面料，具有很强的实用性。
本发明的面料加工工艺所制得的面料具有优越的蓬松度、坚韧度、轻量感、弹性，手感柔软，并且面料组织厚实、保暖、尺寸稳定性好、不易脱散；采用了特殊制作的中间层材料，使面料具有优异的防水、防污和防油性能。
以上所述，仅是本发明的较佳实施例而已，并非是对本发明作其它形式的限制，任何熟悉本专业的技术人员可能利用上述揭示的技术内容加以变更或改型为等同变化的等效实施例。但是凡是未脱离本发明技术方案内容，依据本发明的技术实质对以上实施例所作的任何简单修改、等同变化与改型，仍属于本发明技术方案的保护范围。

Claims (6)

1.一种面料加工工艺，其特征在于，经过初加工、调制上色材料、上色、烘干、清洗、高温干燥和包装步骤，完成面料的加工；所述具体步骤如下：
（1） 初加工：选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与50D/24F高收缩超细涤锦复合丝编织为正面，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层，选用90dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与100D/144F涤纶低弹丝为反面，先对正面拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、烫光，进行编织制成坯布，将坯布进行漂白，送入平幅水洗机进行水洗，水中添加1.8-2g/l的石碱、1.1-1.3g/l的脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚，将水洗后的半成品送入染缸中进行碱减量，加入18-20g/L的烧碱，之后降温并排液，先用热水洗，再用0.6-0.8g/L的乙酸溶液进行洗涤，最后再用常温水进行冷洗，并烘干，所述烘干温度为93-97℃，所述烘干时间为25-30min；
（2）调制上色材料：按照重量份包括如下组份：选择15-20份的特氟龙，5-8份的二叔丁基过氧化物，1-3份的无水偏硅酸钠，0.3-0.4份的脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺，1-2份的催化剂，2-2.5份的乙酸，2.2-2.5份的三乙醇胺，1-1.5份的去油剂，2-2.2份的分散剂，其余全为水；
（3）上色：将漂白烘干的面料放入步骤（2）配制的涂层材料中浸渍，所述浸渍时间为35-40min；浴比1：11-12，升温至45-48℃时加入分散染料，以1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至65-75℃，之后以1.0℃/min 的升温速率升温至110-120℃，保温45min，之后以2.0-2.2℃/min的降温速率降温，降温至65-75℃时排液，再加入上述混合料总重量的0.3-0.5%的ZJ-Z01起毛剂，在常温下运行20-25min后取出；
（4）烘干：将浸渍后的面料蒸化烘干，所述蒸化烘干温度为125-135℃，所述烘干时间为20-25min；
（5）清洗：将烘干后的面料进行清洗；
（6）高温干燥：将水洗后的涂层面料高温干燥，干燥时间为40-50min，干燥温度为100-110℃；刷面料反面，刷5-6遍，轻刷多刷，刷好后，梳反面2遍，梳透梳匀，梳后剪去长毛浮毛，剪毛高度为1.8-2.0mm，剪毛后送摇粒筒进行摇粒，时间25-30min，摇粒后马上进行理布打卷；
（7）包装：将摇粒并打卷后的半成品按18-20m/min的速率经过定型机进行定型，浸轧1.8g/L的亲水性柔软剂，得到成品，包装。
2.根据权利要求1所述的面料加工工艺，其特征在于，选用70dtex-36f-扁平状断面中空阳离子可染涤纶假捻纱与75D/72F涤纶低弹丝为中间层进行编织制成坯布时，先对该中间层进行压光处理，然后在其表面上喷洒三层模量为50-60N/m2的PU树脂混合物，每层的厚度为5-10μm，再进行印刷加工，其中各层PU树脂混合物包括如下成分：PU树脂100重量份、N,N-二甲基甲酰胺35-40重量份，十二烷基苯磺酸钠4-6重量份，色浆4-8重量份。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的面料加工工艺，其特征在于，所述拉毛采用拉毛机进行，压力辊的压力控制在8.5-9.5kg，转速控制在820-880r/min。
4.根据权利要求3所述的面料加工工艺，其特征在于，所述定型时的定型温度为160-165℃，超喂为20%。
5.根据权利要求3或4所述的面料加工工艺，其特征在于，所述清洗的步骤为调制清洗液的PH值为7-7.5，水温为20℃-25℃，将面料浸泡8-10min后进行清洗，轻轻揉洗，洗涤时间不超过3-5min。
6.根据权利要求5所述的面料加工工艺，其特征在于，所述面料的蓬松系数为 4.5-5.5cm3/g、克重为180-220g/㎡； 保温克罗值为1.3-1.5。
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