CN107397687A - A kind of oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin - Google Patents

A kind of oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107397687A
CN107397687A CN201610334870.1A CN201610334870A CN107397687A CN 107397687 A CN107397687 A CN 107397687A CN 201610334870 A CN201610334870 A CN 201610334870A CN 107397687 A CN107397687 A CN 107397687A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
oil
parts
weight
melanin
water
Prior art date
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Pending
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CN201610334870.1A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
东为富
李婷
汪洋
马丕明
陈明清
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Jiangnan University
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Jiangnan University
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Priority to CN201610334870.1A priority Critical patent/CN107397687A/en
Publication of CN107397687A publication Critical patent/CN107397687A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin.Cosmetics include:Solvent:100 parts by weight;Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight, melanin are melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process;Melanin particle size range is 100~200nm;Solvent includes:Water, NMF, ethanol, oil components, surfactant, higher alcohol and additive.The present invention is by directly mixing a small amount of melanin in components of cosmetics, improve cosmetics inoxidizability, anti-uv and cosmetic emulsions Investigation of stabilized dispersion of nano, it is effective against aoxidizing, prevent ultraviolet to injury of human, all kinds of skin problems because caused by irradiating ultraviolet are avoided, expand cosmetics application field.

Description

A kind of oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic technical field, further says, is to be related to a kind of water bag containing melanin Oil type cosmetics and preparation method.
Background technology
Because environment is constantly destroyed, atmospheric ozone layer is thinning, thinning, Ozone hole, ultraviolet light,long wave occurs Area (i.e. UVA areas) and the increase of UV-B area (i.e. UVB areas) exposure intensity, oxygen radical increase. Injury of the sunshine to human body skin mostlys come from UVA areas and UVB areas.UVA belongs to long wave, effect In deep skin, effect is slow, but can cause disposable melanism.UVB belongs to medium wave, acts on skin table Layer, it is quick, skin keratinocytes can be excited, make vasodilation, increase CBF, initial stage can be rubescent, Then slowly become brown.
The anti-oxidant abbreviation for referring to resisting oxidation free radical, human body is because of the continuous contact with the external world, including breathing The factor such as (oxidation reaction), outside contamination, radioactive ray irradiation constantly produces free radical in body.Section Learn research and show that cancer, aging or Other diseases are mostly relevant with the generation of excessive free radicals.
The A of Publication No. CN 102740825 Chinese patent application discloses a kind of oil-in-water type emulsion sun-proofization Cosmetic, wherein add a large amount of compounding ultra-violet absorbers and improve ultraviolet protection ability, these ultraviolets Absorbent partially absorbs UVA areas ultraviolet, partially absorbs UVB areas ultraviolet, therefore cosmetics each component Between be uniformly mixed into as problem.Most antioxidation cosmetic product DeGrains and easily cause allergic. The A of publication number CN 104027284 Chinese patent application discloses a kind of antioxidation cosmetic product composition and its system Preparation Method, the antioxidant are tocopherol.Tocopherol is the hydrolysate of vitamin E, is dissolved in fat, It is not soluble in water, but tocopherol easily promotes sex hormone to secrete, and the antioxidant used for cosmetic of no good.
The content of the invention
To solve produced problem in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of oil-in-water type containing melanin Cosmetics and preparation method.Different from other synthetic additives, melanin does not cause cutaneous anaphylaxis and tool There is multi-efficiency.The present invention improves cosmetics and resisted by directly mixing a small amount of melanin in components of cosmetics Oxidisability, anti-uv and cosmetic emulsions Investigation of stabilized dispersion of nano, are effective against aoxidizing, and prevent ultraviolet Line avoids all kinds of skin problems because caused by irradiating ultraviolet, expands cosmetic applications neck to injury of human Domain.
Melanin is skin, mucous membrane, retina, pia mater and the gall-bladder and ovary etc. for being widely present in people. At this stage, the disease as caused by melanin is such as:Freckle, chloasma, melanose etc. enter popular sight, people Melanin is synthesized by melanocyte in body.For these reasons, rarely having in the prior art should by melanin For in cosmetics.However, present inventor it has been investigated that melanin be biology in order to uvioresistant Line and it is caused, melanin is pigment most powerful in all pigments, and very efficient.Irradiated in ultraviolet To melanin chemical chain when, melanin chemical chain shakes at a terrific speed, by 99% it is harmful ultraviolet Line is converted into harmless heat, so as to protect the existence of organism.Here it is why in Africa life People and living at high altitude people's ratio of skin tone others it is heavier the reason for.Therefore, inventor breaks through Traditional Thinking, greatly Courage is attempted, and a small amount of melanin is added in cosmetics, and discovery can significantly improve cosmetics UV resistance ability, Inoxidizability is improved, while melanin is safe and non-toxic, will not cause allergic reaction.
Melanin is a kind of peculiar large biological molecule, is widely present in animal and plant body.It has ultraviolet light The superior functions such as absorption, heat dissipation, metal ion-chelant, temperature adjustment, antibiotic property and radicals scavenging (Journal of Physics.D:Applied Physics 2009 Vol.42 No.3P035502).Melanin nanometer Grain diameter is about 100~200nm, and particle can suppress the aggregation by the time of emulsified particle and coordinate parents Property material formed thickening effect, be advantageous to the uniform mixing of each composition in cosmetics.In addition, melanin UVA areas and UVB areas ultraviolet are almost fully absorbed, ultraviolet ray transmissivity is about zero, and melanin is caught Catch and remove free radical caused by human body, antioxidant effect is obvious.Based on these advantages, the present invention uses black Pigment and Melanoidins are large biological molecule, while have antioxidant, ultra-violet absorber and stabilization point concurrently Powder multiple performance, it is safe and non-toxic, cutaneous anaphylaxis will not be caused.
An object of the present invention is to provide a kind of oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin.
Including:
Solvent:100 parts by weight;
Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight, preferably 0.05~2 parts by weight, melanin particle size range are 100~200nm;
The melanin is melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process;
Solvent includes:Water, NMF, ethanol, oil components, surfactant, higher alcohol and add Add agent;
The oil components include ethereal oil and nonvolatile oil;Ethereal oil is hydrocarbon ils, straight chain or ring dress Organosilicon compound;Nonvolatile oil is polyalkylsiloxane or polyarylsiloxane.
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts,
The parts by weight of content 40~80 of water, preferably 50~75 parts by weight;
The parts by weight of content 5~10 of ethanol, preferably 5~8 parts by weight;
The content of NMF is 5~15 parts by weight, preferably 7~13 parts by weight;
The parts by weight of content 2~20 of oil components;
The parts by weight of content 1~5 of surfactant, preferably 1~2 parts by weight;
The parts by weight of content 0.1~1 of higher alcohol, preferably 0.1~0.5 parts by weight.
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, the parts by weight of volatile oil content 1~18, preferably 7~10 Parts by weight;The non-volatile parts by weight of oil content 1~5, preferably 2~3 parts by weight.
The water is deionized water or pure water;
Described NMF be glycerine, propane diols, xylitol, sorbierite, butanediol, polyethylene glycol, thoroughly At least one of bright matter acid, vegetable protein, soybean protein, collagen, chitosan and ceramide;
The oil components include ethereal oil and nonvolatile oil;Ethereal oil is hydrocarbon ils, straight chain or ring dress Organosilicon compound, preferably HMDO, octamethyltrisiloxane, the silica of decamethyl ring four At least one of alkane, the siloxanes of ten pregnancy basic ring seven, Permethyl 99A, isohexadecane;Nonvolatile oil is Polyalkylsiloxane or polyarylsiloxane, preferably dimethyl silicone polymer, polydiethylsiloxane and At least one of PSI.
The surfactant is hydrophilic surfactant;Including POE- sorbitan fatty acid ester classes (POE- sorbitan trioleates, POE- anhydrous sorbitols tristearate, POE- anhydrous sorbitols times Half oleate etc.);The stearate of POE- polyoxyethylene sorbitols six;POE- PGMLs;POE- Fatty acid ester includes POE- glycol fatty acid esters, POE- diethylene glycols fatty acid ester, POE- monostearates Glyceride, POE- diethylene glycols monoleate, POE- propylene glycol monostearates and POE- diethylene glycol lists At least one of stearate;
The higher alcohol is that carbon number is at least one of 6~24 alcohol.
The additive includes thickener, dispersant, stabilizer, nertralizer and preservative.All it is this area Common additive;Technical staff can also add other conventional additives, its dosage according to actual conditions It for conventional amount used, can be adjusted according to actual conditions, be 0.1~2 parts by weight preferably per the content of class additive.
The preferred laruyl alcohol of described thickener, myristyl alcohol, C12~15Alcohol, C12~16Alcohol, decyl alcohol, hexanol, Octanol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, mountain alcohol, laurate, C18~36Acid, linoleic acid, leukotrienes, myristic acid, At least one of stearic acid;
The preferred isopropanol of described dispersant, the oxosilane of carboxy decyl three, polyvinylpyrrolidone etc.;
It is the preferred xanthans of described stabilizer, carragheen, acrylate copolymer, polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, complete Perfluoroalkyl polyether bisphosphate etc.;
Described nertralizer preferably lecithin and tween, triethanolamine, citric acid-Eurya plant lemon acid sodium, lactic acid-lactic acid Sodium etc.;
Described preservative include imidazolidinyl urea, interior uride, OIT, p-hydroxybenzoate, At least one of Bronopol.
The second object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin.
A. water and NMF are dissolved by heating in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, then adds surface-active thereto Agent, it is well mixed, prepares aqueous phase;
B. oil components are dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank, it is rear to add higher alcohol and be well mixed, make Standby oil phase;
C. at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, oil phase is slowly added in aqueous phase, is well mixed, until being formed uniform Oil in water emulsion;
D. water coolers oil emu is to 45 DEG C or lower, adds melanin, ethanol and additive thereto, It is sufficiently mixed, prepares oil-in-water cosmetic.
The present invention is beneficial to be had technical effect that:
It is multiple that 1. a small amount of melanin can play anti-oxidant, antiultraviolet and stable dispersion etc. in cosmetics Effect, melanin have no toxic side effect to human body skin, can effectively absorb ultraviolet, remove free radical, Reduce influence of the ultraviolet to human body, can be made into creme, emulsion, toner, surfactant, facial mask, gel, All kinds of formulation cosmetics such as ointment, finish, solution, plastics or aerosol.The present invention can be effective Resistance oxidation, prevent ultraviolet from, to injury of human, avoiding all kinds of skin problems because caused by irradiating ultraviolet;
2. of the present invention containing melanin oil-in-water cosmetic, prepare simple and easy, be easy to industrialize.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the transmission electron microscope photo after melanin of the present invention is disperseed in aqueous;
Fig. 2 is that the UV-Vis of comparative example 1 of the present invention and embodiment 1 absorbs spectrogram.
Embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the present invention is further illustrated.
The preparation of melanin
(1) preparation of melanin 1:By dopamine hydrochloride (the limited public affairs of Shanghai Aladdin biochemical technology share Department provides, specification:AR) it is dissolved in deionized water, stirs, heating, adds a certain amount of NaOH, 4 After individual hour, reaction terminates, and by centrifugation, obtains melanin 1;
(2) preparation of melanin 2:By DOPA (Shanghai Aladdin biochemical technology limited company provide, Specification:AR), dibenzoyl peroxide (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group, specification:AR) it is dissolved in Dimethylsulfoxide solvent (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group, specification:AR in), regulation solution is in acidity, After reacting for 20 times, melanin 2 can be arrived through centrifugation;
(3) preparation of melanin 3:From market purchase inkfish (Wuxi Nanchan Temple food market), take inkfish black Juice, centrifuged melanin 3.
Prepared melanin particle size range is 100~200nm.
Comparative example 1-3 and embodiment 1-6
It is formulated by using table 1 and preparation method is often used in above-mentioned field, obtains comparative example 1-3 and embodiment 1-6 oil-in-water cosmetics.Wherein, any melanin composition is not added in comparative example 1-3;Embodiment 1-6 The melanin 1, melanin 2, melanin 3 of different weight part are added respectively.
Method and step is as follows:
(1) water and NMF are dissolved by heating in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, then adds surface thereto and lives Property agent, be well mixed, prepare hydrophilic mixture;
(2) oil components are dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank, it is rear to add higher alcohol and be well mixed, Prepare lipophilic mixture;
(3) at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, oil-phase component is slowly added in water-phase component, is well mixed, directly To the uniform oil in water emulsion of formation;
(4) water coolers oil emu is to 45 DEG C or lower, adds melanin, ethanol and additive thereto, It is sufficiently mixed, prepares oil-in-water cosmetic.
Assessment item
1st, emulsion stability
The outward appearance after detection sample preserves one month at 25 DEG C is visually observed, according to following benchmark evaluation.
◎:Sample is uniform and is liquid;
○:Emulsion separation is observed in sample;
△:Oil slick is observed in sample;
×:Sample is kept completely separate.
2nd, use feeling
Choose 10 volunteers, by each sample coating on the face, to absorb when glutinous greasy situation investigate, According to following benchmark evaluation.
◎:9-10 people answers not glutinous greasy;
○:6-8 people answers not glutinous greasy;
△:3-5 people answers not glutinous greasy;
×:0-2 people answers not glutinous greasy.
3rd, ultraviolet (UV) defence capability persistence
Each sample 2mg/cm of even spread on quartz glass plate2, spontaneously dry 15 minutes.Afterwards, away from From progress ultraviolet irradiation at glass plate 10mm.SPF analyzers are in the range of 290-400nm in stone Detected at random 5 on English glass plate, draw spf value, be designated as SPF1.Then by above-mentioned glass plate coated face Immerse upwards in 20 DEG C of books and drying is taken out after 15 minutes, and repeat operation 2 times above, calculate SPF again Value, is designated as SPF2.
◎:80% and more than;
○:70-80% (including 70%);
△:50-70% (including 50%);
×:Less than 50%.
The invention provides one kind to contain melanin oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method thereof, in the method, By directly mixing a small amount of melanin in components of cosmetics, stable dispersion cosmetic emulsion, cosmetics are improved Anti-oxidant and ultraviolet resistance, it is effective against aoxidizing, prevents ultraviolet from, to injury of human, avoiding because of purple All kinds of skin problems caused by outside line irradiation, expand cosmetics application field.

Claims (10)

1. a kind of oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin, it is characterised in that the cosmetics include:
Solvent:100 parts by weight;
Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight;
The melanin is melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process; Melanin particle size range is 100~200nm;
Solvent includes:Water, NMF, ethanol, oil components, surfactant, higher alcohol and add Add agent;
The oil components include ethereal oil and nonvolatile oil;Ethereal oil is hydrocarbon ils, straight chain or ring dress Organosilicon compound;Nonvolatile oil is polyalkylsiloxane or polyarylsiloxane;
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, the parts by weight of content 40~80 of water;The content of NMF For 5~15 parts by weight, the parts by weight of content 5~10 of ethanol;The parts by weight of content 2~20 of oil components;Surface The parts by weight of content 1~5 of activating agent;The parts by weight of content 0.1~1 of higher alcohol.
2. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Melanin:0.05~2 parts by weight.
3. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, the content of water is 50~75 parts by weight;The content of ethanol For 5~8 parts by weight;The content of NMF is 7~13 parts by weight.
4. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, volatile oil content is 1~18 parts by weight;It is non-volatile Oil content is 1~5 parts by weight.
5. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 4, it is characterised in that:
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, volatile oil content is 7~10 parts by weight;It is non-volatile Oil content is 2~3 parts by weight.
6. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Counted by 100 parts by weight of the gross weight of solvent, the content of surfactant is 1~2 parts by weight; The content of higher alcohol is 0.1~0.5 parts by weight.
7. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
The water is deionized water or pure water;
The surfactant is hydrophilic surfactant;
The higher alcohol is that carbon number is at least one of 6~24 alcohol;
The NMF is glycerine, propane diols, xylitol, sorbierite, butanediol, polyethylene glycol, transparent At least one of matter acid, vegetable protein, soybean protein, collagen, chitosan and ceramide.
8. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 7, it is characterised in that:
The surfactant is POE- sorbitan fatty acid esters class, POE- polyoxyethylene sorbitols six are hard Resin acid ester, POE- PGMLs, POE- fatty acid esters include POE- glycol fatty acid esters, POE- diethylene glycols fatty acid ester, POE- glycerin monostearates, POE- diethylene glycols monoleate, POE- At least one of propylene glycol monostearate and POE- diethylene glycol monostearates;
The ethereal oil be HMDO, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, At least one of the siloxanes of ten pregnancy basic ring seven, Permethyl 99A, isohexadecane;
The nonvolatile oil is dimethyl silicone polymer, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethyl-benzene base silica At least one of alkane.
9. the oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
The additive includes thickener, dispersant, stabilizer, nertralizer and preservative;
Counted using the gross weight of solvent as 100 parts, thickener, dispersant, stabilizer, nertralizer and anti- The content of rotten agent is 0.1~2 parts by weight.
A kind of 10. preparation side of oil-in-water cosmetic containing melanin as described in one of claim 1~9 Method, it is characterised in that methods described includes:
A. water and NMF are dissolved by heating in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, then adds surfactant thereto, It is well mixed, prepare aqueous phase;
B. oil components are dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank, it is rear to add higher alcohol and be well mixed, make Standby oil phase;
C. at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, oil phase is slowly added in aqueous phase, is well mixed, until being formed uniform Oil in water emulsion;
D. water coolers oil emu is to 45 DEG C or lower, adds melanin, ethanol and additive thereto, It is sufficiently mixed, prepares oil-in-water cosmetic.
CN201610334870.1A 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 A kind of oil-in-water cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin Pending CN107397687A (en)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112315831A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-02-05 熊林 Anti-radiation whitening and moisturizing face cream and preparation method thereof
CN113069372A (en) * 2021-04-07 2021-07-06 广州慈康生物科技有限公司 Sunscreen composition based on melanin coated particles and preparation method thereof
WO2021174715A1 (en) * 2020-03-02 2021-09-10 江南大学 Personal care sunscreen composition, preparation method therefor and use thereof

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103025333A (en) * 2010-03-12 2013-04-03 利珀化学公司 Compound, composition, and method for protecting skin from high energy visible light
CN103126966A (en) * 2013-03-07 2013-06-05 孙传宝 Ultraviolet-proof cream containing sleeve-fish ink melanin

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103025333A (en) * 2010-03-12 2013-04-03 利珀化学公司 Compound, composition, and method for protecting skin from high energy visible light
CN103126966A (en) * 2013-03-07 2013-06-05 孙传宝 Ultraviolet-proof cream containing sleeve-fish ink melanin

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021174715A1 (en) * 2020-03-02 2021-09-10 江南大学 Personal care sunscreen composition, preparation method therefor and use thereof
CN112315831A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-02-05 熊林 Anti-radiation whitening and moisturizing face cream and preparation method thereof
CN113069372A (en) * 2021-04-07 2021-07-06 广州慈康生物科技有限公司 Sunscreen composition based on melanin coated particles and preparation method thereof

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