CN107397688A - A kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin - Google Patents

A kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107397688A
CN107397688A CN201610334936.7A CN201610334936A CN107397688A CN 107397688 A CN107397688 A CN 107397688A CN 201610334936 A CN201610334936 A CN 201610334936A CN 107397688 A CN107397688 A CN 107397688A
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China
Prior art keywords
melanin
water
oil
type cosmetic
oil type
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CN201610334936.7A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
东为富
李婷
汪洋
陈明清
马丕明
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Jiangnan University
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Jiangnan University
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Priority to CN201610334936.7A priority Critical patent/CN107397688A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin.Cosmetics include:Solvent:100 parts by weight;Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight;Melanin is melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process;Melanin particle size range is 100~200nm;Solvent includes water, ethanol, grease, emulsifying agent, thickener, NMF and preservative.The present invention is by directly mixing a small amount of melanin in components of cosmetics, improve that cosmetics are anti-oxidant and ultraviolet resistance, be effective against aoxidizing, prevent ultraviolet to injury of human, all kinds of skin problems because caused by irradiating ultraviolet are avoided, expand cosmetics application field.

Description

A kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, further says, is to be related to a kind of water-in-oil type containing melanin Cosmetics and preparation method.
Background technology
Because environment is constantly destroyed, atmospheric ozone layer is thinning, thinning, Ozone hole, ultraviolet light,long wave occurs Area (i.e. UVA areas) and the increase of UV-B area (i.e. UVB areas) exposure intensity, oxygen radical increase. Injury of the sunshine to human body skin mostlys come from UVA areas and UVB areas.UVA belongs to long wave, effect In deep skin, effect is slow, but can cause disposable melanism.UVB belongs to medium wave, acts on skin table Layer, it is quick, skin keratinocytes can be excited, make vasodilation, increase CBF, initial stage can be rubescent, Then slowly become brown.
The anti-oxidant abbreviation for referring to resisting oxidation free radical, human body is because of the continuous contact with the external world, including breathing The factor such as (oxidation reaction), outside contamination, radioactive ray irradiation constantly produces free radical in body.Section Learn research and show that cancer, aging or Other diseases are mostly relevant with the generation of excessive free radicals.
Publication No. CN 104640536A Chinese patent application disclose one kind rub this type be used for isolate it is ultraviolet The cosmetic composition of line, the UV-screens are selected from ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, to methoxyl group The double cinnamic acids of isoamyl cinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, cyanogen Monooctyl ester, heliophan, BEMT, Uvinul T 150, At least one of Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and Uvinul A Plus, it isolates purple Outside line turns into mostly chemical synthesis.Most antioxidation cosmetic product DeGrains and easily cause allergic. Publication number CN 104027284A Chinese patent application discloses a kind of antioxidation cosmetic product composition and its system Preparation Method, the antioxidant are tocopherol.Tocopherol is the hydrolysate of vitamin E, is dissolved in fat, It is not soluble in water, but tocopherol easily promotes sex hormone to secrete, and the antioxidant used for cosmetic of no good.
The content of the invention
To solve technical problem of the prior art, the invention provides a kind of water-in-oil type containing melanin Cosmetics and preparation method.The melanin and Melanoidins that the present invention uses are large biological molecule, are had concurrently simultaneously Antioxidant, ultra-violet absorber and stable dispersant multiple performance, different from other synthetic additives, Melanin is safe and non-toxic, does not cause cutaneous anaphylaxis and has multi-efficiency.By directly by a small amount of black In element incorporation components of cosmetics, improve that cosmetics are anti-oxidant and ultraviolet resistance, be effective against aoxidizing, Prevent ultraviolet from, to injury of human, avoiding all kinds of skin problems because caused by irradiating ultraviolet, expanding and make up Product application field.
Melanin is skin, mucous membrane, retina, pia mater and the gall-bladder and ovary etc. for being widely present in people. At this stage, the disease as caused by melanin is such as:Freckle, chloasma, melanose etc. enter popular sight, people Melanin is synthesized by melanocyte in body.For these reasons, rarely having in the prior art should by melanin For cosmetics.However, present inventor it has been investigated that melanin be biology in order to uvioresistant And it is caused, melanin is pigment most powerful in all pigments, and very efficient.It is irradiated in ultraviolet During the chemical chain of melanin, melanin chemical chain shakes at a terrific speed, by 99% harmful ultraviolet Harmless heat is converted into, so as to protect the existence of organism.Here it is why in the African people to live With living at high altitude people's ratio of skin tone others it is heavier the reason for.Therefore, inventor breaks through Traditional Thinking, courageously Attempt, a small amount of melanin is added in cosmetics can significantly improve cosmetics UV resistance ability, improve antioxygen The property changed, while melanin is safe and non-toxic, will not cause allergic reaction.
Melanin is a kind of peculiar large biological molecule, is widely present in animal and plant body.It has ultraviolet light The superior functions such as absorption, heat dissipation, metal ion-chelant, temperature adjustment, antibiotic property and radicals scavenging (Journal of Physics.D:Applied Physics 2009 Vol.42 No.3 P035502).Melanin nanometer Grain diameter is about 100~200nm, is mentioned in the A of Publication No. CN 103841947 Chinese patent, is made up Particle of a small amount of particle diameter less than 500nm is coordinated to suppress aggregation by the time and the cooperation of emulsified particle in product Amphiphilic material forms thickening effect, so being added with for melanin mixes beneficial to the uniform of each composition in cosmetics Close.In addition, melanin almost fully absorbs UVA areas and UVB areas ultraviolet, and ultraviolet passes through Rate is about zero, and melanin catches and removes free radical caused by human body, and antioxidant effect is obvious.Based on these Advantage, the melanin and Melanoidins that the present invention uses are large biological molecule, while have antioxidant, purple concurrently Ultraviolet absorbers and stable dispersant multiple performance, it is safe and non-toxic, cutaneous anaphylaxis will not be caused.
An object of the present invention is to provide a kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin.
Including:
Solvent:100 parts by weight,
Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight, preferably 0.05~2 parts by weight;
Melanin particle size range is 100~200nm;
The melanin is melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process,
The solvent include water, grease, emulsifying agent, thickener, NMF, preservative and other Additive;
Counted by 100 parts by weight of the gross weight of solvent,
Counted by 100 parts by weight of the gross weight of solvent, the preferred amount ranges of each component:
Described grease is at least one of vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil or artificial oil, such as castor-oil plant Oil, coconut oil, corn oil, herring oil, dimethyl polysiloxane etc..
The emulsifying agent is sorbitan trioleate, anhydrous sorbitol tristearate, anhydrous sorbitol Sesquioleate, the stearate of polyoxyethylene sorbitol six, glycol fatty acid ester, propane diols monostearate Ester, glycerin monostearate, PGML, diethylene glycol monoleate, diethylene glycol fat At least one of acid esters and diethylene glycol monostearate.
Described thickener is laruyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12~15Alcohol, C12~16It is alcohol, decyl alcohol, hexanol, pungent Alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, mountain alcohol, laurate, C18~36Acid, linoleic acid, leukotrienes, myristic acid, At least one of stearic acid.
Described NMF be glycerine, propane diols, xylitol, sorbierite, butanediol, polyethylene glycol, thoroughly At least one of bright matter acid, vegetable protein, soybean protein, collagen, chitosan and ceramide.
Described preservative be imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin, OIT, p-hydroxybenzoate, At least one of Bronopol.
The conventional additives of other this areas can also be added in base stock, as dispersant, stabilizer with And nertralizer etc..Its dosage is conventional amount used, and technical staff can be adjusted according to actual conditions, is added per class The content for adding agent is preferably 0.1~2 parts by weight.
The second object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin.
Including:
(1) thickener and surfactant are added after grease is dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank and is mixed Close uniformly, prepare oil phase;
(2) water and NMF are added in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, is well mixed, prepares aqueous phase;
(3) at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, aqueous phase is slowly added in oil phase, forms uniform water-in-oil emulsion;
(4) it is to 45 DEG C or lower to cool down water-in-oil emulsion, add thereto melanin, ethanol and it is remaining into Divide and prepare water-in-oil type cosmetic.
The present invention is beneficial to be had technical effect that:
It is multiple that 1. a small amount of melanin can play anti-oxidant, antiultraviolet and stable dispersion etc. in cosmetics Effect;Melanin has no toxic side effect to human body skin, and can effectively absorb ultraviolet, removes certainly By base, influence of the ultraviolet to human body is reduced, creme, emulsion, toner, surfactant, face can be made All kinds of formulation cosmetics such as film, gel, ointment, finish, solution, plastics or aerosol.This hair It is bright to be effective against aoxidizing, prevent ultraviolet from, to injury of human, avoiding each because caused by irradiating ultraviolet Class skin problem
2. of the present invention containing melanin water-in-oil type cosmetic, prepare simple and easy, be easy to industrialize.
Embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the present invention is further illustrated.
The preparation of melanin
(1) preparation of melanin 1:By dopamine hydrochloride (the limited public affairs of Shanghai Aladdin biochemical technology share Department provides, specification:AR) it is dissolved in deionized water, stirs, heating, adds a certain amount of NaOH, 4 After individual hour, reaction terminates, and by centrifugation, obtains melanin 1;
(2) preparation of melanin 2:By DOPA (Shanghai Aladdin biochemical technology limited company provide, Specification:AR), dibenzoyl peroxide (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group, specification:AR) it is dissolved in Dimethylsulfoxide solvent (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group, specification:AR in), regulation solution is in acidity, After reacting for 20 times, melanin 2 can be arrived through centrifugation;
(3) preparation of melanin 3:From market purchase inkfish (Wuxi Nanchan Temple food market), take inkfish black Juice, centrifuged melanin 3.
Prepared melanin particle size range is 100~200nm.
Comparative example 1-3 and embodiment 1-6
It is formulated by using table 1 and preparation method is often used in above-mentioned field, obtains comparative example 1-3 and embodiment 1-6 water-in-oil type cosmetics.Wherein, any melanin composition is not added in comparative example 1-3;Embodiment 1-6 The melanin 1, melanin 2, melanin 3 of different weight part are added respectively.
Method and step is as follows:
(1) grease is dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank, it is rear to add thickener and surfactant simultaneously It is well mixed, prepare lipophilic mixture;
(2) water and NMF are added in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, and is well mixed, prepares hydrophily Mixture;
(3) at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, water-phase component is slowly added in oil-phase component, forms uniform oil Bag aqueous emulsion;
(4) it is to 45 DEG C or lower to cool down water-in-oil emulsion, adds melanin, ethanol, preservative thereto And other adding ingredients prepare water-in-oil type cosmetic.
Assessment item
1st, emulsion stability
The outward appearance after detection sample preserves one month at 25 DEG C is visually observed, according to following benchmark evaluation.
◎:Sample is uniform and is liquid;
○:Emulsion separation is observed in sample;
△:Oil slick is observed in sample;
×:Sample is kept completely separate.
2nd, use feeling
Choose 10 volunteers, by each sample coating on the face, to absorb when glutinous greasy situation investigate, According to following benchmark evaluation.
◎:9-10 people answers not glutinous greasy;
○:6-8 people answers not glutinous greasy;
△:3-5 people answers not glutinous greasy;
×:0-2 people answers not glutinous greasy.
3rd, ultraviolet (UV) defence capability persistence
Each sample 2mg/cm of even spread on quartz glass plate2, spontaneously dry 15 minutes.Afterwards, away from From progress ultraviolet irradiation at glass plate 10mm.SPF analyzers are in the range of 290-400nm in stone Detected at random 5 on English glass plate, draw spf value, be designated as SPF1.Then by above-mentioned glass plate coated face Immerse upwards in 20 DEG C of books and drying is taken out after 15 minutes, and repeat operation 2 times above, calculate SPF again Value, is designated as SPF2.
◎:80% and more than;
○:70-80% (including 70%);
△:50-70% (including 50%);
×:Less than 50%.
The invention provides one kind to contain melanin water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method thereof, in the method, By directly mixing a small amount of melanin in components of cosmetics, stable dispersion cosmetic emulsion, cosmetics are improved Anti-oxidant and ultraviolet resistance, it is effective against aoxidizing, prevents ultraviolet from, to injury of human, avoiding because of purple All kinds of skin problems caused by outside line irradiation, expand cosmetics application field.

Claims (9)

1. a kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin, it is characterised in that the cosmetics include:
Solvent:100 parts by weight;
Melanin:0.05~5 parts by weight;
The melanin is melanin or Melanoidins prepared by natural extraction, chemical synthesis or biological fermentation process; Melanin particle size range is 100~200nm;
The solvent includes water, ethanol, grease, emulsifying agent, thickener, NMF and preservative;
Counted by 100 parts by weight of the gross weight of solvent,
2. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Melanin:0.05~2 parts by weight.
3. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Counted by 100 parts by weight of the gross weight of solvent,
4. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Described grease is at least one of vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil or artificial oil.
5. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 4, it is characterised in that:
The emulsifying agent is sorbitan trioleate, anhydrous sorbitol tristearate, anhydrous sorbitol Sesquioleate, the stearate of polyoxyethylene sorbitol six, glycol fatty acid ester, propane diols monostearate Ester, glycerin monostearate, PGML, diethylene glycol monoleate, diethylene glycol fat At least one of acid esters and diethylene glycol monostearate.
6. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 5, it is characterised in that:
Described thickener is laruyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12~15Alcohol, C12~16It is alcohol, decyl alcohol, hexanol, pungent Alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, mountain alcohol, laurate, C18~36Acid, linoleic acid, leukotrienes, myristic acid, At least one of stearic acid.
7. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 6, it is characterised in that:
Described NMF be glycerine, propane diols, xylitol, sorbierite, butanediol, polyethylene glycol, thoroughly At least one of bright matter acid, vegetable protein, soybean protein, collagen, chitosan and ceramide.
8. the water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as claimed in claim 7, it is characterised in that:
Described preservative be imidazolidinyl urea, interior uride, OIT, p-hydroxybenzoate, At least one of Bronopol.
A kind of 9. preparation side of water-in-oil type cosmetic containing melanin as described in one of claim 1~8 Method, it is characterised in that methods described includes:
A. thickener and surfactant are added after grease is dissolved by heating in 80-85 DEG C of vapor tight tank and is mixed Uniformly, oil phase is prepared;
B. water and NMF are added in 70-80 DEG C of vapor tight tank, is well mixed, prepares aqueous phase;
C. at a temperature of 70-85 DEG C, aqueous phase is slowly added in oil phase, forms uniform water-in-oil emulsion;
D. it is to 45 DEG C or lower to cool down water-in-oil emulsion, adds melanin, ethanol and remaining ingredient thereto Prepare water-in-oil type cosmetic.
CN201610334936.7A 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 A kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin Pending CN107397688A (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201610334936.7A CN107397688A (en) 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 A kind of water-in-oil type cosmetic and preparation method containing melanin

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021174715A1 (en) * 2020-03-02 2021-09-10 江南大学 Personal care sunscreen composition, preparation method therefor and use thereof
CN113599293A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-11-05 熊林 Anti-radiation whitening and moisturizing face cream

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102088946A (en) * 2008-05-12 2011-06-08 塔格拉生物科技有限公司 Compositions for topical application comprising microencapsulated colorants
CN102228419A (en) * 2011-06-28 2011-11-02 中国人民解放军南京军区福州总医院 Emulsified sunscreen cosmetic
CN103126966A (en) * 2013-03-07 2013-06-05 孙传宝 Ultraviolet-proof cream containing sleeve-fish ink melanin

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102088946A (en) * 2008-05-12 2011-06-08 塔格拉生物科技有限公司 Compositions for topical application comprising microencapsulated colorants
CN102228419A (en) * 2011-06-28 2011-11-02 中国人民解放军南京军区福州总医院 Emulsified sunscreen cosmetic
CN103126966A (en) * 2013-03-07 2013-06-05 孙传宝 Ultraviolet-proof cream containing sleeve-fish ink melanin

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Title
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021174715A1 (en) * 2020-03-02 2021-09-10 江南大学 Personal care sunscreen composition, preparation method therefor and use thereof
CN113599293A (en) * 2020-11-18 2021-11-05 熊林 Anti-radiation whitening and moisturizing face cream

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