CN105708018A - 镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法 - Google Patents
镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105708018A CN105708018A CN201610135021.3A CN201610135021A CN105708018A CN 105708018 A CN105708018 A CN 105708018A CN 201610135021 A CN201610135021 A CN 201610135021A CN 105708018 A CN105708018 A CN 105708018A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 61
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 60
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 39
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 241000283973 Oryctolagus cuniculus Species 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 241000283707 Capra Species 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 102100037486 Reverse transcriptase/ribonuclease H Human genes 0.000 claims description 6
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical compound [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000000077 angora Anatomy 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910000410 antimony oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- VTRUBDSFZJNXHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxoantimony Chemical compound [Sb]=O VTRUBDSFZJNXHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004873 Anti Pilling Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001467 acupuncture Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010001 crabbing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/02—Layered materials
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/47—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
- D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
- B32B2250/02—2 layers
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法,镂空蕾丝面料包括若干面料块,面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,这种镂空蕾丝面料的面料块与纺线构成的镂空面料虚实结合,增强了面料的层次感,具有良好的吸湿性、透气性,穿着柔软舒适,保暖性好,耐碱性强。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
衣服因其保暖性、轻柔性、美观性和舒适性已逐渐被大多数消费者所接受。而目前一些用于制造衣服的面料会给人不舒适的感觉,不透气、吸湿性差,长时间穿着造成不适。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供舒适、透气的镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
镂空蕾丝面料,包括若干面料块,面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述面料块上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、复精梳工艺:
依次经过混条—针梳—精梳—针梳—成条工序完成复精梳;
3)、纺纱工艺:
采用一般公知的纺纱工艺,依次经过头针—二针—三针—四针—粗纱-存放—细纱—蒸纱—自络筒-并线-倍捻—蒸纱工序,制成用于织造精纺面料的纱线,细纱工序采用紧密纺细纱设备;
4)、织造和修补工艺:
采用一般公知的织造和修补工艺,将纱线织造成坯布,并通过修补使得坯布无纺疵和织疵;
5)、后整理工艺:
坯布经过烧毛—平幅洗呢—煮呢—烘呢-高速洗呢-烘呢-增深处理—熟修—中检-刷毛-剪毛—罐蒸-蒸呢-预缩工序,制成精纺面料。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
这种镂空蕾丝面料的面料块与纺线构成的镂空面料虚实结合,增强了面料的层次感,具有良好的吸湿性、透气性,穿着柔软舒适,保暖性好,耐碱性强。
具体实施方式
本发明涉及镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法,所述镂空蕾丝面料包括若干面料块,面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述面料块上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、复精梳工艺:
依次经过混条—针梳—精梳—针梳—成条工序完成复精梳;
3)、纺纱工艺:
采用一般公知的纺纱工艺,依次经过头针—二针—三针—四针—粗纱-存放—细纱—蒸纱—自络筒-并线-倍捻—蒸纱工序,制成用于织造精纺面料的纱线,细纱工序采用紧密纺细纱设备;
4)、织造和修补工艺:
采用一般公知的织造和修补工艺,将纱线织造成坯布,并通过修补使得坯布无纺疵和织疵;
5)、后整理工艺:
坯布经过烧毛—平幅洗呢—煮呢—烘呢-高速洗呢-烘呢-增深处理—熟修—中检-刷毛-剪毛—罐蒸-蒸呢-预缩工序,制成精纺面料。
Claims (1)
1.镂空蕾丝面料及其制作方法,其特征在于:所述镂空蕾丝面料包括若干面料块,面料块与面料块之间通过纺丝线连接,其中每个面料块由径线和纬线交织混纺而成,所述径线为粘胶纤维,纤度为126~185dtex,经密度为34.2~38.5根/cm,所述纬线为铜氨纤维,纤度为112~228dtex,经密度为29.8~43.8根/cm,所述面料块上覆盖有蕾丝层;
该面料的制作方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、羊绒纤维和海藻炭纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、复精梳工艺:
依次经过混条—针梳—精梳—针梳—成条工序完成复精梳;
3)、纺纱工艺:
采用一般公知的纺纱工艺,依次经过头针—二针—三针—四针—粗纱-存放—细纱—蒸纱—自络筒-并线-倍捻—蒸纱工序,制成用于织造精纺面料的纱线,细纱工序采用紧密纺细纱设备;
4)、织造和修补工艺:
采用一般公知的织造和修补工艺,将纱线织造成坯布,并通过修补使得坯布无纺疵和织疵;
5)、后整理工艺:
坯布经过烧毛—平幅洗呢—煮呢—烘呢-高速洗呢-烘呢-增深处理—熟修—中检-刷毛-剪毛—罐蒸-蒸呢-预缩工序,制成精纺面料。
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