CN105640854B - 一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，选择燕麦仁蛋白、鱼卵提取物、PEG‑80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯、水解蜂王浆蛋白、长心卡帕藻提取物、楔基海带提取物、水解大豆蛋白、长角豆籽提取物、六肽‑9、1,2‑戊二醇、水解酵母蛋白、姜黄根提取物、葡糖基橙皮苷等原料，同时，严格限定原料的用量，针对眼部皮肤的特性，针对性强，精准补充眼部皮肤养分，激发眼部皮肤细胞活力，对抗眼部皮肤衰老；全面补水保湿，对抗干燥；同时有效舒缓减压，促进血循，对抗损伤。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品及其制备方法技术领域，特别是涉及一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶及其制备方法。
背景技术
现代成年女性，尤其是25-35岁的成熟女性，都特别重视眼部肌肤护理，因为眼睛是心灵的窗户，更是岁月的痕迹。眼部一旦出现干燥、皱纹、眼袋、黑眼圈，不仅影响“面子”，更意味着“衰老”和美丽、青春不在。因此，现市场上各种宣称紧致、抗皱、祛眼袋、黑圈的眼部专护产品越来越多。从产品成分表上分析，现技术虽然总体上已偏重天然萃取物和生化活性物，但要么功效设计单一，如，提拉紧致；要么选料不专，如，缺乏功效验证。许多宣称多功效的，从养护机理上分析，配方设计(选料)科学依据并不充分。
从皮肤的生理构造上讲，人眼睛周围的皮肤很薄，仅是脸颊皮肤厚度的1/4，皮脂腺与汗腺分布很少，同时也缺乏丰厚的肌肉层，只有一层薄薄的环状形肌肉，眼部肌肤若缺乏有效保养或护理，很容易出现干燥，血液阻塞，以及毒素累积无法排除的情形，从而引起一系列的问题，如：干纹、细纹、黑眼圈、眼袋、浮肿等。
细纹形成的原因：眼部细纹是指眼部皮肤受到外界环境影响(干燥脱水，氧自由基破坏等)，使正常真皮层组织内的胶原蛋白活力下降；紧张工作、熬夜、长期处于密闭空调空间、用眼过度、脸部表情丰富及致使皮肤正常代谢功能失调。
眼袋形成的原因：1、眼皮下脂肪细胞的囤积；2、眼睑皮肤很薄，皮下组织薄而疏松，而发生水肿现象(遗传是一个重要的因素)；3、随着年龄增长，肌肤老化，眼部肌肤松弛，眼袋愈加明显；4、肾脏有病、怀孕期间、睡眠不足或疲劳都会造成眼部体液堆积形成眼袋。黑眼圈的原因：1、经常熬夜，情绪不稳定，眼部过度疲劳，衰老，静脉血管血流速度过于缓慢、血流循环不畅，眼部皮肤红血球细胞供氧不足，静脉血管中二氧化碳及代谢废物积累过多，形成慢性缺氧，静脉血液颜色较暗并形成滞流以及造成眼部色素沉着；2、静脉曲张：眼窝或眼睑的静脉瘤或静脉曲张，以及眼睑长期水肿，也会引起黑眼圈；3、化妆品的色素颗粒渗透：常用化妆品者，可能有某些深色的化妆品微粒渗透到眼皮内，久之，则呈现黑眼圈。
发明内容
本发明的目的就是依据眼部问题成因和护理机理、精选现代原料，提供了一种基于天然的、专业的、安全的、有效的、由鱼子(鱼卵)、蜂皇(蜂王浆)等复合蛋白活性成分配方的鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶及其制备方法。
本发明的目的可以通过以下技术方案来实现：
一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，包含以下重量百分比含量的组分：
一种如上所述的鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶的制备方法，具体步骤如下：
(1)按量称取各组分，将纯水加入到水相锅中，再依次加入聚γ-谷氨酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，边搅拌边加热至温度60℃，搅拌溶解均匀，再依次加入甘油、1，3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯、葡糖基橙皮苷、六肽-9、欧洲七叶树提取物、齿叶乳香树脂提取物，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(2)在60℃条件下，将水相锅中原料抽入真空均质乳化锅中，之后在搅拌条件下依次加入水解大豆蛋白、燕麦仁蛋白、楔基海带提取物、长心卡帕藻提取物、姜黄根提取物、长角豆籽提取物，搅拌30分钟，并均质3分钟，充分混合均匀；
(3)冷却降温至45℃，依次加入鱼卵提取物、水解蜂王浆蛋白、水解酵母蛋白、氨甲基丙醇，搅拌10分钟，并均质3分钟，充分搅拌混合均匀；
(4)继续冷却至35℃，加入苯氧乙醇(和)羟苯甲酯(和)羟苯丙酯(和)乙基己基甘油，并充分搅拌均匀；
(5)再冷却至30℃，出料。
本发明配方中所用原材料均为市售专业产品。
本发明中的甘油，是一种100％天然来源的保湿剂。
本发明中的1,3-丙二醇，是一种100％天然来源的保湿剂和溶剂。与常用的甘油配用，增强保湿性和肤感。
本发明中的燕麦仁蛋白，是一种由燕麦提取的、富有弹性和韧性的天然蛋白质，具有快速紧肤、平皱效果。
本发明中的鱼卵提取物，萃取自海洋鱼类(鲑鱼、鲟鱼等)的卵(鱼子)，富含蛋白质、核酸、磷脂、复合维生素，具有优良滋养护肤效果：保湿，活化细胞，激发胶原蛋白的合成，促进弹性和紧实，平滑和抗皱。
本发明中的PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯，俗称吐温28(TWEEN 28)，是一种天然源乳化剂和增溶剂。
本发明中的水解蜂王浆蛋白，又叫水解蜂皇浆蛋白，由蜂王浆经“酶解”而得。富含游离氨基酸，如脯氨酸、丝氨酸和赖氨酸等，具有促进胶原蛋白产生，防止松弛和皱纹形成，保护皮肤不受有害的外部刺激。与本发明鱼卵提取物等其他蛋白成分协同，能有效重重塑皮肤屏障完整性，使皮肤紧致柔嫩。
本发明中的长心卡帕藻提取物，一种来自海洋红藻提取的“线性半乳聚糖”。具有限制“端粒体退化，保护端粒，延长皮肤寿命和延缓其自然衰老过程”的功效。
本发明中的楔基海带提取物，又叫“墨西哥湾黄金藻提取物”。富含海藻多糖和卵磷脂，具有强大保湿能力，以及抗晒，抗刺激，增强皮脂膜屏障功能。
本发明中的水解大豆蛋白，提取自大豆的植物活性成分。富含寡糖和谷氨酰胺肽，能有效增强角质细胞分化，激活表皮蛋白质(丝聚蛋白)和脂质(神经酰胺)合成，减少水分流失。与本发明鱼子蛋白、蜂皇蛋白协同，能持续提高细胞能量因子(ATP)合成，保护皮肤免受紫外线(UV)、电磁辐射、污染物(活性氧ROS)损伤，保持屏障完整性。
本发明中的长角豆籽提取物，一种富含氨基酸的高保湿剂。能够显著提高皮肤对于缺水压力下(日晒、寒冷、干燥、空调环境，等)的自身适应能力，帮助维护皮肤锁水、储水、捕水、水传输正常功能(4D保湿)，提升皮肤水合度和光泽感。
本发明中的六肽-9，是一种合成胶原肽(仿生肽)，具有与人体胶原蛋白Ⅳ和ⅩⅦ相同的序列。能够有效促进细胞间质合成，强化真表连接层结构稳固，显著减少皱纹的深度和长度。
本发明中的1,2-戊二醇，是一种温和合成保湿性，并具有防腐增效作用。
本发明中的水解酵母蛋白，是一种由天然酵母中精准提取的高活性生物蛋白，富含氨基酸和小分子肽，具有抵御氧自由基引发的黑色素沉着，淡化色斑，提亮肤色的显著效果。
本发明中的姜黄根提取物，是姜黄经乳酸杆菌发酵后提取的发酵产物“姜黄胶”。富含姜黄酮活性物。具有强抗氧化性、保湿性和抗炎性能。能有效舒缓、修复受损皮肤，帮助重建屏障完整性。
本发明中的葡糖基橙皮苷，一种由橘皮萃取的高纯生物黄酮。能有效促进血液循环，减少黑眼圈和眼袋。
本发明中的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，是一种安全温和的凝胶剂，制得的凝胶透明，肤感柔滑。
本发明中的氨甲基丙醇，是一种安全温和的凝胶中和剂。
本发明中的苯氧乙醇(和)羟苯甲酯(和)羟苯丙酯(和)乙基己基甘油，是一种极其温和安全的复合防腐剂、抗氧化剂，其配比是苯氧乙醇：羟苯甲酯：羟苯丙酯：乙基己基甘油＝5.0:1.5:1.0:1.0:1.0，由德国S&M公司制造提供。
本发明中的欧洲七叶树提取物，主要活性成分七叶皂甙，具有改善面部毛细血管扩张力，促进皮下微循环，提升细胞活力，到达祛除眼袋、黑眼圈，抗皱效果。
本发明中的齿叶乳香树脂提取物，主要活性成分乳香酸，起舒敏、抗炎作用。能有效抑制两种危害肌肤的致炎酶--5-脂氧合酶和弹性酶，修护炎症(过敏)引起的皮肤损伤，祛除黑眼圈。
本发明中的聚γ-谷氨酸钠，由黄豆经过发酵制取，是一种性能优良的成膜保湿剂。能显著增加皮肤内关键保湿因子(NMF)成分HA(透明质酸)和PCA-Na(吡咯烷酮羧酸钠)的含量，因而提高皮肤保湿度和弹性，并呈现柔滑肤感。
本发明严格限定原料的种类及各种原料的用量，针对眼部皮肤的特性，针对性强，精准补充眼部皮肤养分，激发眼部皮肤细胞活力，对抗眼部皮肤衰老；甘油、丙二醇、长角豆籽提取物等组分全面补水保湿，对抗干燥；燕麦仁蛋白、鱼卵蛋白提取物、水解蜂王浆蛋白、六肽-9等组分可以激发胶原蛋白的合成和促进胶原蛋白的合成，减少皱纹的形成；楔基海带提取物、水解大豆蛋白等组分可以对抗外界损伤(紫外线灯)；葡糖基橙皮苷等组分有效舒缓减压，促进血循的作用。本发明中各个组分相互配合，针对眼部肌肤的问题与特性相互协同对抗眼部肌肤衰老。本发明的制备工艺简单，各组分按顺序依次严格添加，使各种原料混合均匀。
具体实施方式
实施例1
一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，由以下重量百分比的原料制备而成：
制备方法的具体步骤如下：
(1)按量称取各组分，将纯水加入到水相锅中，再依次加入聚γ-谷氨酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，边搅拌边加热至温度60℃，搅拌溶解均匀，再依次加入甘油、1，3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯、葡糖基橙皮苷、六肽-9、欧洲七叶树提取物、齿叶乳香树脂提取物，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(2)在60℃条件下，将水相锅中原料抽入真空均质乳化锅中，之后在搅拌条件下依次加入水解大豆蛋白、燕麦仁蛋白、楔基海带提取物、长心卡帕藻提取物、姜黄根提取物、长角豆籽提取物，搅拌30分钟，并均质3分钟，充分混合均匀；
(3)冷却降温至45℃，依次加入鱼卵提取物、水解蜂王浆蛋白、水解酵母蛋白、氨甲基丙醇，搅拌10分钟，并均质3分钟，充分搅拌混合均匀；
(4)继续冷却至35℃，加入苯氧乙醇(和)羟苯甲酯(和)羟苯丙酯(和)乙基己基甘油，并充分搅拌均匀；
(5)再冷却至30℃，出料。
实施例2
一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，由以下重量百分比的原料制备而成：
制备方法与实施例1相同。
实施例3
一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，由以下重量百分比的原料制备而成：
制备方法与实施例1相同。
将实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶采用QB/T2874-2007进行检验，检验结果如表1所示：
表1检验结果：
采用QB/T2874-2007标准进行测试，可以看出实施例1-3均符合标准要求，说明本发明的配方选择科学合理且具有良好的稳定性。
对实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶进行急性眼刺激性实验，试验方法如下：
受试物采用实施例1-3，动物采用新西兰白兔，3只，标记为5240-1、5240-2、5240-3，饲养环境：室温范围16～22℃，10～20次/小时的频率换气，12小时明暗循环采光控制，相对湿度为40-70％，自由饮水。对实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶依据《化妆品卫生规范》(2007年版)进行急性眼刺激性试验。
试验前的24h内对试验动物的两只眼睛进行检查(包括荧光素钠检查)。
取受试物0.1g涂入动物的左眼的结膜囊内，以未作处理的另一侧眼睛作为自身对照，根据规范涂入受试物后1、24、48、72h使用手持裂隙灯进行评分，并在24h时使用荧光素钠检查。在72h未发现刺激反应，并终止试验。
按规范进行评分，并根据公式进行计算平均积分，进行刺激强度分级。
表2实施例1制备的护眼凝胶对家兔急性眼刺激性试验结果
表3实施例2制备的护眼凝胶对家兔急性眼刺激性试验结果
表4实施例3制备的护眼凝胶对家兔急性眼刺激性试验结果
从表2-4中可以看出实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶对家兔眼刺激性试验结果为无刺激性，表明本发明配方合理对眼睛无刺激性。
对实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶进行多次皮肤刺激性实验，试验方法如下：
受试物采用实施例1-3，动物采用新西兰白兔4只，标记为5240-1、5240-2、5240-3、5240-4，饲养环境：室温范围16～22℃，10～20次/小时的频率换气，12小时明暗循环采光控制，相对湿度为40-70％，自由饮水。对实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶依据《化妆品卫生规范》(2007年版)进行多次皮肤刺激性试验。
试验前将试验动物背部脊柱两侧被毛检测，去毛范围各为3cm*3cm，涂敷面积2.5cm*2.5cm。取受试物0.5g涂敷在一侧皮肤上，另一侧涂生理盐水作为对照，每天涂敷一次，连续涂敷14d。从第二天开始，每次敷用前剪毛，用生理盐水清除残留受试物。一小时后观察结果，按规范中进行评分和刺激强度分级。
表5实施例1制备的护眼凝胶对家兔多次皮肤刺激性实验结果
表6实施例2制备的护眼凝胶对家兔多次皮肤刺激性实验结果
表7实施例3制备的护眼凝胶对家兔多次皮肤刺激性实验结果
从表5-7中可以看出实施例1-3制备的护眼凝胶对家兔多次皮肤刺激性试验结果为无刺激性，表明本发明配方合理，对皮肤无刺激性，安全性好。
清除DPPH能力的测定
二苯代苦味酰基自由基是一种以氮为中心的自由基，性能稳定，若受试物能清楚他则表示受试物具有降低羟自由基、烷自由基或过氧自由基等自由基的有效浓度，可阻断脂质过氧化链反应。配制0.1777mmol/L的DPPH溶液，在10mL试管中加入pH值为6.88的标准磷酸盐缓冲溶液4mL，DPPH溶液4mL，加入样品溶液到10mL，测受试物对DPPH自由基的清除率，实验结果如表8所示：
表8实施例1-3对DPPH自由基清除率列表如下：
| 组别 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 |
| 清除率 | 92％ | 93％ | 89％ |
实验结果说明实施例1、实施例2、实施例3对DPPH自由基均有清除效果，有良好的抗衰老功效。
紧致眼部周围肌肤的测试
测评方法：取实施例1-3制得的护眼凝胶，选120名志愿者，每天早晚2次使用，连续使用3个月，对比使用前后眼部周围肌肤皱纹情况。采用以下三个指标进行评价：A效果好：肌肤纹理变浅；B效果一般：肌肤纹理稍微变浅；C效果差：肌肤纹理无变化。
表9实施例1-3护眼凝胶使用反馈结果
| 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | |
| 评价A的人数 | 95 | 96 | 92 |
| 评价B的人数 | 3 | 2 | 5 |
| 评价C的人数 | 2 | 2 | 3 |
从表9中可以看出，实施例1-3的使用效果均在志愿者中取得较好评价，说明实施例1-3有良好的紧致眼部肌肤的效果。
上述实施方案为本发明最佳的实施方案，但本发明的实施方案并不受上述实施方案的限制，其他的任何不违背本发明原理的条件下，可以通过改变参数的形式所产生的实施例，都包含于本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (3)
1.一种鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，其特征在于，包含以下重量百分比含量的组分：
所述的鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶的制备方法，具体步骤如下：
(1)按量称取各组分，将纯水加入到水相锅中，再依次加入聚γ-谷氨酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，边搅拌边加热至温度60℃，搅拌溶解均匀，再依次加入甘油、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯、葡糖基橙皮苷、六肽-9、欧洲七叶树提取物、齿叶乳香树脂提取物，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(2)在60℃条件下，将水相锅中原料抽入真空均质乳化锅中，之后在搅拌条件下依次加入水解大豆蛋白、燕麦仁蛋白、楔基海带提取物、长心卡帕藻提取物、姜黄根提取物、长角豆籽提取物，搅拌30分钟，并均质3分钟，充分混合均匀；
(3)冷却降温至45℃，依次加入鱼卵提取物、水解蜂王浆蛋白、水解酵母蛋白、氨甲基丙醇，搅拌10分钟，并均质3分钟，充分搅拌混合均匀；
(4)继续冷却至35℃，加入苯氧乙醇和羟苯甲酯和羟苯丙酯和乙基己基甘油，并充分搅拌均匀；
(5)再冷却至30℃，出料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，其特征在于，原料的重量百分比替换成以下重量百分比：
3.根据权利要求1所述的鱼子蜂皇紧致护眼凝胶，其特征在于，原料的重量百分比替换成以下重量百分比：
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