CN105544196B - 一种防起球羊毛面空气层面料 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种防起球羊毛面空气层面料，空气层面料由羊毛面料和空气层辅料通过缝合或粘接复合而成，羊毛面料经过防起球处理，防起球处理包括配置第一整理液和第二整理液、第一整理液整理、第二整理液整理、清洗烘干等步骤。本发明中利用角蛋白分子中的巯基与羊毛表面的巯基发生结合，填充了鳞片的凸起部分，再经第二整理液中的乙二胺改性聚乳酸整理，在羊毛纤维的表面形成完成的保护膜，降低纤维表面的摩擦系数还可以增加羊毛纤维的强力；本发明所采用的第一整理液和第二整理液的成膜物质生物相容性好，采用上述羊毛织物复合制成的面料抗起球效果达2级，复合用于空气层面料不仅能增加保暖效果，面料垂感强，服用舒适性更优。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种防起球羊毛面空气层面料。
背景技术
羊毛具有弹性好、吸湿性强、保暖性好、光泽柔和等许多优良特性。毛面料的风格高贵、服用性能优越。然而，未经整理的羊毛面料在水洗时经不断挤压、揉搓下会发生毡缩，从而引起面料尺寸缩小、呢面发毛、织纹混乱等外观变化，上述变化不断积累会影响面料的外观和服用性能，在一定程度上限制了羊毛的应用领域。毛面料毡缩的原因，传统的观点认为主要是由羊毛鳞片层结构所引起的定向摩擦效应和羊毛的卷曲、弹性所造成。因此，防止羊毛面料毡缩的方法便是建立在如何减少定向摩擦效应以及改变羊毛单方向运动倾向的基础上，归纳起来有破坏鳞片层和使聚合物 (或称树脂) 沉积在纤维表面这两个方面。
CN 105133327 A公开了一种羊毛织物防起球助剂，由聚烷基丙烯酸酯、乙二醇单乙醚、乙酸钠、雷米邦、枧油、疏基乙酸铵、二环己基甲烷二异氰酸酯、高粘度蒙脱石粘土和水组成。上述防起球助剂主要是通过聚烷基丙烯酸酯在羊毛表面形成表面光滑的覆膜，减少相邻羊毛纤维之间的摩擦、静电吸附和缠结。通过处理后的羊毛织物能有效的降低羊毛织物起球的概率，从而提高了羊毛织物的品质和附加值；在试验过程中，两层羊毛织物在反复摩擦 1000次，表面基板无起球现象。但是，上述防起球助剂组成复杂，生物相容性差，高粘度蒙脱石粘土的加入还不可避免的会造成羊毛色泽的变化，影响其染色效果。 还有的技术方案采用角蛋白整理羊毛面料，但是，要在羊毛纤维表面形成连续的覆膜，才能达到降低纤维表面的摩擦系数的目的，因此角蛋白整理液中的蛋白含量较大，成本较高，不利于大规模生产。现有技术中多采用棉、化纤等面料作为空气层面料的面层，垂坠感不强。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的缺陷，提供一种的用料生物相容性好、防起球效果好的防起球羊毛面空气层面料。
为实现上述技术效果，本发明的技术方案为：一种防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述空气层面料由羊毛面料和空气层辅料通过缝合或粘接复合而成，羊毛面料经过防起球处理，防起球处理包括如下步骤：
S1：配置第一整理液和第二整理液，第一整理液的主要组成为角蛋白粉末、有机酸和水，第一整理液中角蛋白粉末的重量百分比为1～4%；第二整理液的主要组成为乙二胺改性聚乳酸、乳酸乙酯和聚碳化二酰亚胺，第二整理液中乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量百分比为0.2～2%，聚碳化二酰亚胺与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量比为（0.03～0.1）：1 ；
S2：将羊毛织物浸渍于第一整理液中，室温下浸渍1～3h，取出面料，真空减压条件下加热至60～70℃干燥；
S3：将羊毛面料在第二整理液中浸轧1～2次，取出，置于低于70℃的条件下烘干；
S4：用清洗液将S3所得面料清洗，烘干，得防起球羊毛织物。
将角蛋白粉末、有机酸和水的第一混合整理液浸渍整理羊毛织物，角蛋白溶液中的蛋白质分子与羊毛表面基团发生脱水缩合，缠结在羊毛纤维的表面，乙二胺改性聚乳酸表面的氨基和羧基与羊毛纤维表面的氨基、羧基以及角蛋白溶液中的蛋白质分子发生缩合，在羊毛纤维表面形成稳定的三维网络覆盖在纤维表面的鳞片层外，聚乳酸膜层透明度高，不影响羊毛面料的色泽，有助于提高面料纤维的强力，改善羊毛面料的手感，另外，乳酸乙酯和聚乳酸均为生物环保材料，生物相容性好，还具有一定的耐菌性和阻燃性能。聚碳化二亚胺可消耗聚乳酸水解过程中不断产生的新的端羧基，提高聚乳酸膜的抗水解性能。
优选的技术方案为，有机酸为选自甲酸或乙酸中的一种，第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为70～80%。甲酸和乙酸的沸点较低，第一整理液可在较低的温度条件下实现干燥，避免高温烘干面料导致有机酸深入羊毛纤维孔隙中损伤羊毛，进而影响手感、强力和弹性的现象。
优选的技术方案为，第二整理液中包含增塑剂，所述增塑剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为（0.01～0.02）:1。增塑剂的氢键与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的活性氨基发生氢键作用，替代了原有的聚乳酸分子链之间的极性连接，降低膜内刚性连接点的数量，从而使薄膜更柔软疏松，增加面料的透气性，进而增强面料的服用舒适性。
优选的技术方案为，所述增塑剂为选自聚乙二醇、柠檬酸三丁酯、乙酰柠檬酸三丁酯和葵二酸丁二酯中的至少一种。上述增溶剂与聚乳酸相容，插入聚乳酸分子链之间，将一部分聚乳酸分子链的作用力中心屏蔽，增加相邻分子链的移动性，从而增加聚乳酸的塑性。优选的技术方案为分子量为6000-10000的聚乙二醇，上述分子量的聚乙二醇与聚乳酸的相容性好，还可达到增韧羊毛纤维表面聚乳酸覆膜的韧性。
为了增加羊毛纤维表面聚乳酸的交联度，改善聚乳酸在羊毛纤维表面的流变性能，便于形成均一的交联三维结构，优选的技术方案为，所述第二整理液还包括聚乳酸交联剂，所述聚乳酸交联剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为（0.01～0.02）:1。
优选的技术方案为，所述聚乳酸交联剂为戊二醛和乙二醛的混合物，聚乳酸交联剂中乙二醛的重量百分比为60～90%。戊二醛和乙二醛还可与乙二胺改性聚乳酸分子中的接枝氨基发生反应，破坏聚乳酸的有序排列，使成膜的膜体疏松，提升整理后羊毛面料的柔软度，同时有助于改善羊毛面料的透湿效果。
优选的技术方案为，第二整理液中还含有壳聚糖，第二整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为1～4%。壳聚糖可与乙二胺改性聚乳酸分子发生交联形成互穿网络，两种大分子之间发生缠结，进一步降低聚乳酸的降解。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：
本发明中利用角蛋白分子中的巯基与羊毛表面的巯基发生结合，填充了鳞片的凸起部分，再经第二整理液中的乙二胺改性聚乳酸整理，在羊毛纤维的表面形成完成的保护膜，进一步增加羊毛表面的光滑度，降低纤维表面的摩擦系数，减少羊毛的定向摩擦效应，还可以增加羊毛纤维的强力；
本发明中角蛋白使用量较小，通过采用角蛋白整理和聚乳酸整理相结合的方式，后整理成本较低，采用有机酸溶剂角蛋白，去除溶剂的烘干操作更简单易行；
本发明所采用的第一整理液和第二整理液的成膜物质生物相容性好，采用上述羊毛织物复合制成的面料抗起球效果达2级，复合用于空气层面料不仅能增加保暖效果，面料垂感强，服用舒适性更优。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1：
实施例1的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，空气层面料由羊毛面料和空气层辅料通过缝合复合而成，羊毛面料经抗起球整理，上述抗起球整理包括如下步骤：
S1：配置第一整理液和第二整理液，第一整理液的主要组成为角蛋白粉末、有机酸和水，第一整理液中角蛋白粉末的重量百分比为1%；第二整理液的主要组成为乙二胺改性聚乳酸、乳酸乙酯和聚碳化二酰亚胺，第二整理液中乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量百分比为0.2%，聚碳化二酰亚胺与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量比为0.03：1 ；
S2：将羊毛织物浸渍于第一整理液中，室温下浸渍1h，取出面料，真空减压条件下加热至60℃干燥；
S3：将羊毛面料在第二整理液中浸轧1次，取出，置于低于70℃的条件下烘干；
S4：用清洗液将S3所得面料清洗，烘干，得防起球羊毛织物。
有机酸为甲酸，第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为88%。
实施例2
实施例2与实施例1的区别为：第一整理液中角蛋白粉末的重量百分比为4%；第二整理液中乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量百分比为2%，聚碳化二酰亚胺与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量比为0.1：1 ；S2：将羊毛织物浸渍于第一整理液中，室温下浸渍3h，取出面料，真空减压条件下加热至70℃干燥；S3：将羊毛面料在第二整理液中浸轧2次，取出，置于低于70℃的条件下烘干。
第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为70%；第二整理液中包含增塑剂柠檬酸三丁酯，增塑剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.01:1。
实施例3
实施例3与实施例1的区别为：第一整理液中角蛋白粉末的重量百分比为2.5%；第二整理液中乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量百分比为1.1%，聚碳化二酰亚胺与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量比为0.65：1；S2：将羊毛织物浸渍于第一整理液中，室温下浸渍2h，取出面料，真空减压条件下加热至65℃干燥；S3：将羊毛面料在第二整理液中浸轧2次，取出，置于低于70℃的条件下烘干。
第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为80%；第二整理液中包含增塑剂乙酰柠檬酸三丁酯，增塑剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.02:1。
实施例4
实施例4与实施例3的区别为：有机酸为乙酸，第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为75%；增塑剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.015:1。增塑剂为聚乙二醇和葵二酸丁二酯1:1的混合。第二整理液还包括聚乳酸交联剂乙二醛，聚乳酸交联剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.01:1。实施例4的空气层面料采用羊毛面料和空气层辅料粘接而成。
实施例5
实施例5与实施例4的区别为：聚乳酸交联剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.02:1，聚乳酸交联剂为戊二醛和乙二醛的混合物，聚乳酸交联剂中乙二醛的重量百分比为60%，第二整理液中还含有壳聚糖，第二整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为1%。
实施例6
实施例6与实施例5的区别为：聚乳酸交联剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为0.015:1，聚乳酸交联剂为戊二醛和乙二醛的混合物，聚乳酸交联剂中乙二醛的重量百分比为90%，第二整理液中还含有壳聚糖，第二整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为4%。
实施例7
实施例7与实施例6的区别为：聚乳酸交联剂为戊二醛和乙二醛的混合物，聚乳酸交联剂中乙二醛的重量百分比为75%，第二整理液中还含有壳聚糖，第二整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为2.5%。
对比例
对比例1中不采用角蛋白预处理；对比例2中不采用第二整理液整理；对比例的其他工艺参数及组成配比与实施例7相同。
实施例和对比例试样检测：
1、采用纤维摩擦系数仪对羊毛的顺鳞摩擦系数和逆鳞摩擦系数进行检测；
2、用纤维强伸度仪对纤维的断裂强力进行检测。
试样检测值见下表：
采用缝合形成的空气层面料柔软度高与采用粘接复合的空气层面料，实施例和对比例的纤维摩擦系数越低，抗起球效果越好。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述空气层面料由羊毛面料和空气层辅料通过缝合或粘接复合而成，羊毛面料经过防起球处理，防起球处理包括如下步骤：
S1：配置第一整理液和第二整理液，第一整理液的主要组成为角蛋白粉末、有机酸和水，第一整理液中角蛋白粉末的重量百分比为1～4%；第二整理液的主要组成为乙二胺改性聚乳酸、乳酸乙酯和聚碳化二酰亚胺，第二整理液中乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量百分比为0.2～2%，聚碳化二酰亚胺与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量比为（0.03～0.1）：1 ；
S2：将羊毛织物浸渍于第一整理液中，室温下浸渍1～3h，取出面料，真空减压条件下加热至60～70℃干燥；
S3：将羊毛面料在第二整理液中浸轧1～2次，取出，置于低于70℃的条件下烘干；
S4：用清洗液将S3所得面料清洗，烘干，得防起球羊毛织物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，有机酸为选自甲酸或乙酸中的一种，第一整理液中有机酸的重量百分比为70～80%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，第二整理液中包含增塑剂，所述增塑剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为（0.01～0.02）:1。
4.根据权利要求3所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述增塑剂为选自聚乙二醇、柠檬酸三丁酯、乙酰柠檬酸三丁酯和葵二酸丁二酯中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述第二整理液还包括聚乳酸交联剂，所述聚乳酸交联剂与乙二胺改性聚乳酸的重量之比为（0.01～0.02）:1。
6.根据权利要求5所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述聚乳酸交联剂为戊二醛和乙二醛的混合物，聚乳酸交联剂中乙二醛的重量百分比为60～90%。
7.根据权利要求1所述的防起球羊毛面空气层面料，其特征在于，所述第二整理液中还含有壳聚糖，第二整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为1～4%。
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