CN105544047A - Corn fiber and viscose fiber blending fabric and manufacture method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the weaving fabric field, and provides a corn fiber and viscose fiber blending fabric and a manufacture method thereof; the yarn employs 14.8tex corn fiber and viscose fiber blended yarn, and a blending ratio is 40:60; the fabric warp density is 500/10cm; the filling density is 287/10cm; a weave structure is poplin cloth, and fabric width is 162.5cm; the spinning process flow comprises the following steps: cleaning cotton; carding cotton; drawing; rough spinning; fine spinning; spooling; the weaving process flow comprises the steps of warping, slashing and weaving. The corn fiber and viscose fiber blending fabric is excellent in drapability and crease resistance, soft in handfeeling, and has real silk touch; the fabric is light and thin in quality, clear in lines, obvious in poplin cloth particles, and suitable for shirt and lady clothes.

Description

A kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC and manufacture method thereof

Technical field

The invention belongs to field of textile, especially relate to a kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC and manufacture method thereof.

Background technology

The chemical name of zein fiber is acid fiber by polylactic (English abbreviation is PLA), is a kind of novel ecological, environmental protective fiber type.Zein fiber obtains lactic acid with cornstarch through biological decomposition fermentation, and high-purity PLA is made in polymerization under proper condition, then is that raw material spinning is produced into acid fiber by polylactic with PLA, and raw material is from plant, and resource is renewable.Zein fiber closes first biodegradable fiber in fibre, and this fiber biochemical decomposition performance is good, can be decomposed by the microorganisms into carbon dioxide and water, under corn plant photosynthesis, can generate cornstarch again in soil or in water.So in occurring in nature circulation, be reproducible fiber, do not destroy resource and contaminated environment, meet human kind sustainable development direction, Devoting Major Efforts To Developing zein fiber and textiles tool thereof are of great significance.Zein fiber brute force is higher, and the elastic extension of fiber own reaches 33.38%, easy dyeing, is good textile raw material.Have glutinous sense as real silk and good drapability with the fabric that zein fiber is made, have good wrinkle resistance and certain elasticity and anti-ultraviolet function, comfortable and easy to wear, possessing good wearability, is can the garment material of active development.But zein fiber belongs to hydrophobic fiber, hygroscopicity is poor, the not resistance to highly basic of post processing and high temperature, all needs overcome and improved in product design and production and processing.

Summary of the invention

For solving the problem, the invention provides a kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC and manufacture method thereof.

For realizing above-mentioned goal of the invention, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:

A kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, described zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC yarn adopt zein fiber, the viscose acetal fibre blended yarn of 14.8tex, blending ratio is 40:60, fabric through close be 500/10cm, filling density is 287/10cm, fabric tissue is poplin cloth, and fabric width is 162.5cm.

A manufacture method for zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, the manufacture method of described a kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC comprises the following steps:

(1) spinning process

The independent clot of corn, viscose, mixes at slubbing drafting;

Zein fiber bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine;

Viscose bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine;

Mixed spinning: FA302 drawing frame (three roads)-FA457 Speed frames-FA506 fine spining machine-field, village 21C automatic winder;

1) cotton cleaning process

1.2D × 38mm selected by viscose, and 1.3D × 38mm selected by zein fiber, two kinds of independent clots of fiber.Bale breaking balance moisture regain in advance, workshop moisture temperature grasp bigger than normal;

Take " duty grab grab less, many pines beat less, light comb few fall " technological principle, suitably reduction each portion speed, griping cotton machine hired roughneck 1054 revs/min, FA106 adopts kirschner beater, speed 445 revs/min, A076 lap roller speed 10 revs/min, lap dry weight 390 grams/meter, lap length 30.6 meters;

2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning

Humiture grasp bigger than normal, takes the technological principle that many combs fall less, and feed plate-licker-in distance suitably strengthens, suitable control taker-in grid inlet/outlet spaces, and reduces noil, increases licker-in and cylinder differential surface speed, reduce spacing of doffer and cylinder, suitably strengthen cylinder and Flat Gauge; Licker-in speed is 800 revs/min, cylinder speed 330 revs/min, doffer speed 15 revs/min, cylinder and Flat Gauge 0.23,0.23,0.254,0.254,0.3mm, weight of card sliver viscose 16.5 grams/5 meters, zein fiber 18 grams/5 meters;

3) drafting

Adopt three road draftings, strengthen workshop moisture temperature, the front leather roller of amalgamation is through antistatic treatment, and horn mouth diameter can not be too little, and mixed two, mixed three stretch oneself and yawn multiple grasp less than normal for improving the flat back zone of bar solid carbon dioxide;

4) rove

It is slightly larger that multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, when ensureing that spun yarn is normally stretched oneself and yawn, and roving twist factor grasp bigger than normal, back zone is stretched oneself and yawn multiple and is selected 1.22 times, roving twist factor 78, dry weight 3.8 grams/10 meters, roller gauge 10 × 22 × 32.5mm;

5) spun yarn

Spinning process spaces greatly in back zone, littlely stretch oneself and yawn, under the principle of heavily pressurizeing, it is slightly larger that multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, selects the proparea roller that hardness is slightly low, and yarn roller spaces 20 × 35mm, nip gauge 2.5mm, and multiple 1.298 times is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, twist factor 330;

6) winder

Suitable reduction groove drum speed, mixes up splicer, groove drum speed 800 ms/min, electronic yarn clearer parameter 1.3 × 1.5, air splicer joint;

(2) weaving process:

1) warping

This fabric total quantity of warps 8140, joining axle is 679 × 11+671 × 1, joins axle for totally 12.Use adjustable warping creel, weight of tension ring controls in 3.5g ± 0.5g scope, and full wafer warp tension is consistent, and 10, every limit yarn increases 10g tension ring, warping pressure 0.4mpa, warping speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min;

2) sizing

Converted starch is adopted to be main slurry, PVA and propylene class slurry are auxiliary, adopt enzyme desizing technique when grey cloth destarch, according to experience in the past, during employing enzyme desizing, in sizing ingredients, PVA slurry must not exceed 30% of total slurry (starch and propylene class slurry are main);

Slurry formula and technique: converted starch (HB-93) 50kg, PVA25kg, CDDF25kg, antistatic additive 1.5kg, smooth agent 2kg, caustic soda 125g, mould inhibitor (NL-4) 75ml, water 500ml;

Sizing adopts the not stratified mud jacking form of the two pressure of tandem sizing box list leaching, and Sizing Wet district cylinder temperature controls below 110 DEG C, and dry district cylinder temperature controls below 100 DEG C;

Sizing technique: slurry case temperature is 98 ~ 100 DEG C, slurry case viscosity is 11 ~ 12 seconds, and slurry pot temperature is 96 ~ 98 DEG C, and slurry pot viscosity is 8 ~ 9 seconds, the rate of sizing is 12%, and regain is 6.5%, and squeezing pressure is 15kN, the speed of a motor vehicle is 40m/min, and preliminary drying temperature is 110 DEG C, and main baking temperature is 100 DEG C;

3) weave

Use Toyota 610 air-jet loom weaving, main burner pressure 2.5kg ± 0.5kg, the auxiliary power of spraying 3.5 ~ 4kg, the speed of a motor vehicle 700 revs/min, warp tension 150kg, opening time 305 °, opening angle 32 °, Opening Travel 21,17,13,9, heald frame height 276mm, 270mm, 270mm, 267mm.

The advantage that the present invention has and good effect are: the fabric developed has excellent drapability and wrinkle resistance, soft and have the sense of touch as real silk.Fabric texture is frivolous, and lines is clear, and poplin cloth particle is obvious, is suitable for makeing shirt and Women's Wear.

Detailed description of the invention

Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the invention will be further described, but do not limit protection scope of the present invention.

A kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, described zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC yarn adopt zein fiber, the viscose acetal fibre blended yarn of 14.8tex, blending ratio is 40:60, fabric through close be 500/10cm, filling density is 287/10cm, fabric tissue is poplin cloth, and fabric width is 162.5cm.

A manufacture method for zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, the manufacture method of described a kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC comprises the following steps:

1, Fabric Design

Because the hygroscopicity of zein fiber is poor, official regain only has 0.6%, and exploitation PURE YARN FABRIC wearability is poor, therefore selects the shortcoming making up it with the cellulosic fibre blend of good hygroscopicity.The maximum use amount of native cellulose fibre is cotton and flax fibre, but they add in dyeing and finishing and need man-hour to process with highly basic, and therefore they are not suitable for the corn fiber blending with not resistance to highly basic, and finally we select viscose as blending component.Adopt high humidity mould viscose, dry strength wet strength is all higher, and dry stretching stretches functional, higher degree of molecular orientation and degree of crystallinity stable in right amount with wet, and make fiber have higher dry modulus, fabric has good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY.Its smooth circular cross section and full core structure make fiber good luster, have certain drapability and smooth feeling.This fiber stainability is good, and vividness is splendid.Viscose belongs to regenerated celulose fibre, and its discarded object can natural degradation, is also a kind of environmental protection fiber.

According to the analysis to fibre property, how to reach the mutual supplement with each other's advantages between fibre property, improve wearability of fabric, We conducted the analysis of different blending ratio.Because zein fiber official regain only has 0.86%, viscose official regain 13%, if the blending ratio of zein fiber is the BLENDED FABRIC of more than 60%, because zein fiber belongs to hydrophobic fiber, its BLENDED FABRIC hygroscopicity is poor, official regain below 5.56%, lower than the official regain of COTTON FABRIC 8.5%, sense comfortable and easy to wear is bad, so do not select corn fiber blending than the scheme being more than 60%.When zein fiber and viscose respectively account for 50%, its yarn strength is minimum, does not also consider the yarn of this kind of blending ratio.When the blending ratio of zein fiber is 40%, the blending ratio of viscose is 60%, the good hygroscopicity of fabric, official regain is 8.04%, close to the official regain of pure cotton fabric.

Comprehensive above analysis, the blending ratio of final preferably zein fiber is 40%, and the blending ratio of viscose is 60%.The target of Fabrics is garment material spring and summer, therefore selects the yarn that spinning is thinner, exploitation corn/viscose (40:60) blending 14.8tex yarn.Fabric Design is selected the plain cloth that can manifest fibre property quality, develops slim poplin fabric.Final fabric adopts zein fiber, the viscose acetal fibre blended yarn of 14.8tex, and blending ratio is 40:60, fabric through close be 500/10cm, filling density is 287/10cm, and fabric tissue is poplin cloth, and fabric width is 162.5cm.

2, spinning process

First the independent clot of corn, viscose is taked, in the method for slubbing drafting mixing.

Zein fiber bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine

Viscose bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine

Mixed spinning: FA302 drawing frame (three roads)-FA457 Speed frames-FA506 fine spining machine-field, village 21C automatic winder

(1) cotton cleaning process

1.2D × 38mm selected by viscose, and 1.3D × 38mm selected by zein fiber, two kinds of independent clots of fiber.Bale breaking balance moisture regain in advance, workshop moisture temperature grasp bigger than normal.

Fiber index:

	Viscose	Zein fiber
			Fiber number	1.36dtex	1.45dtex
Average length	37.59mm	38.45mm
			Single fiber intensity	4.02CN/dtex	3.6CN/dtex
Percentage elongation	10.51％	33.38％
			Oil content	0.07％	0.16％
Fault rate	0.208％	0
			Public fixed moisture regain	13％	0.6％

The Length Regularity of two kinds of fibers is good, containing assorted few, cotton cleaning process shortens flow process, take " duty grab grab less, many pines beat less, light comb few fall " technological principle, suitably reduction each portion speed, griping cotton machine hired roughneck 1054 revs/min, FA106 adopts kirschner beater, speed 445 revs/min, A076 lap roller speed 10 revs/min, lap dry weight 390 grams/meter, lap length 30.6 meters.

(2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning

According to fiber properties, the grasp bigger than normal of carding step humiture, avoids the problem such as web edge damage, fracture that zein fiber causes because of electrostatic, take the technological principle that many combs fall less, feed plate-licker-in distance suitably strengthens, and reduces licker-in minimizing fibre damage, suitable control taker-in grid inlet/outlet spaces, reduce noil, increase licker-in and cylinder differential surface speed, reduce spacing of doffer and cylinder, favourable and fibre migration, suitable increasing cylinder and Flat Gauge, control the combing of fiber well, reduces cotton knot.Licker-in speed is 800 revs/min, cylinder speed 330 revs/min, doffer speed 15 revs/min, cylinder and Flat Gauge 0.23,0.23,0.254,0.254,0.3mm, weight of card sliver viscose 16.5 grams/5 meters, zein fiber 18 grams/5 meters.

(3) drafting

For making two kinds of fibers fully mix, adopt three road draftings.Because zein fiber regain is low, fiber fluffy easily produces electrostatic, and strengthen workshop moisture temperature, the front leather roller of amalgamation is through antistatic treatment, and horn mouth diameter can not be too little.For stretching fiber better, amalgamation adopts larger back zone to stretch oneself and yawn multiple, and mixed two, mixed three stretch oneself and yawn multiple grasp less than normal for improving the flat back zone of bar solid carbon dioxide.

(4) rove

Because fibre uniformity is good, multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone can be slightly larger, when ensureing that spun yarn is normally stretched oneself and yawn, roving twist factor grasp bigger than normal, preventing from producing unexpected stretching oneself and yawn during rove unwinding. back zone is stretched oneself and yawn multiple and is selected 1.22 times, roving twist factor 78, dry weight 3.8 grams/10 meters, roller gauge 10 × 22 × 32.5mm.

(5) spun yarn

Spinning process spaces greatly in back zone, littlely stretch oneself and yawn, under the principle of heavily pressurizeing, because fibre uniformity is good, multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone can be slightly larger.Want conservative control nip gauge, excessively easily go out details, too small stretching oneself and yawn is not outputed " hardhead ", selects the proparea roller that hardness is slightly low, controls floating fiber, improves yarn evenness level, reduces filoplume, reduces details, improves yarn qualities level.Yarn roller spaces 20 × 35mm, nip gauge 2.5mm, and multiple 1.298 times is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, twist factor 330.

(6) winder

Winding procedure will suitably reduce groove drum speed, performs the technique initialization work of electronic yarn clearer, mixes up splicer, ensures joint quality, notes the bright and clean impulse-free robustness of yarn path, reduces filoplume, reduces the deterioration of yarn qualities,

Groove drum speed 800 ms/min, electronic yarn clearer parameter 1.3 × 1.5, air splicer joint.

End product quality level:

Unevenness CV %	13.7
		Details	4

Slubbing	56
		Cotton knot	121
Hairiness index	5.9
		Single strong CV%	11
Disconnected strong	18.8 (depending on)
		Weight CV%	2.2
Partially heavy	+0.7

3., weaving process

(1) warping

This fabric total quantity of warps 8140, joining axle is 679 × 11+671 × 1, joins axle for totally 12.Use adjustable warping creel, weight of tension ring controls in 3.5g ± 0.5g scope, and full wafer warp tension is consistent.For prevent limit yarn loose go out flounce, 10 yarns in every limit increase 10g tension ring, warping pressure 0.4mpa, warping speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min.

(2) sizing

Owing to forming the hydrophilic viscose of yarn more than the zein fiber refusing water type, converted starch is adopted to be main slurry, PVA and propylene class slurry are auxiliary, due to the not resistance to highly basic of zein fiber, enzyme desizing technique is adopted when grey cloth destarch, according to experience in the past, during employing enzyme desizing, in sizing ingredients, PVA slurry must not exceed 30% of total slurry (starch and propylene class slurry are main).Slurry formula and technique as follows:

Converted starch HB-93	50kg
		PVA	25kg
CDDF	25kg
		Antistatic additive	1.5kg
Smooth agent	2kg
		Caustic soda	125g
Mould inhibitor NL-4	75ml
		Water	500l

Sizing adopts the not stratified mud jacking form of the two pressure of tandem sizing box list leaching, due to zein fiber non-refractory poor performance, the too high meeting of bake out temperature makes zein fiber hardening, and therefore Sizing Wet district cylinder temperature controls below 110 DEG C, dry district cylinder temperature controls below 100 DEG C, in order to avoid zein fiber is hardening.Sizing technique is as follows:

Slurry case temperature	98～100℃	Slurry case viscosity	11 ~ 12 seconds
				Slurry pot temperature	96～98℃	Slurry pot viscosity	8 ~ 9 seconds
The rate of sizing	12％	Regain	6.5％
				Squeezing pressure	15KN	The speed of a motor vehicle	40m/min
Preliminary drying temperature	110℃	Main baking temperature	100℃

(3) weave

Use Toyota 610 air-jet loom weaving, main burner pressure 2.5kg ± 0.5kg, the auxiliary power of spraying 3.5 ~ 4kg, the speed of a motor vehicle 700 revs/min, warp tension 150kg, opening time 305 °, opening angle 32 °, Opening Travel 21,17,13,9, heald frame height 276mm, 270mm, 270mm, 267mm.

Above embodiments of the invention have been described in detail, but described content being only preferred embodiment of the present invention, can not being considered to for limiting practical range of the present invention.All equalizations done according to the present patent application scope change and improve, and all should still belong within patent covering scope of the present invention.

Claims (2)

1. a zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, it is characterized in that: described zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC yarn adopt zein fiber, the viscose acetal fibre blended yarn of 14.8tex, blending ratio is 40:60, fabric through close be 500/10cm, filling density is 287/10cm, fabric tissue is poplin cloth, and fabric width is 162.5cm.

2. a manufacture method for zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC, is characterized in that: the manufacture method of described a kind of zein fiber and viscose acetal fibre BLENDED FABRIC comprises the following steps:

(1) spinning process

The independent clot of corn, viscose, mixes at slubbing drafting;

Zein fiber bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine;

Viscose bar: FA002 type bale plucker-A035 mixed cotton slitter-FA106 opener-A092 tandem feeder-A076 lapper-FA201 carding machine;

Mixed spinning: FA302 drawing frame (three roads)-FA457 Speed frames-FA506 fine spining machine-field, village 21C automatic winder;

1) cotton cleaning process

1.2D × 38mm selected by viscose, and 1.3D × 38mm selected by zein fiber, two kinds of independent clots of fiber.Bale breaking balance moisture regain in advance, workshop moisture temperature grasp bigger than normal;

Take " duty grab grab less, many pines beat less, light comb few fall " technological principle, suitably reduction each portion speed, griping cotton machine hired roughneck 1054 revs/min, FA106 adopts kirschner beater, speed 445 revs/min, A076 lap roller speed 10 revs/min, lap dry weight 390 grams/meter, lap length 30.6 meters;

2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning

Humiture grasp bigger than normal, takes the technological principle that many combs fall less, and feed plate-licker-in distance suitably strengthens, suitable control taker-in grid inlet/outlet spaces, and reduces noil, increases licker-in and cylinder differential surface speed, reduce spacing of doffer and cylinder, suitably strengthen cylinder and Flat Gauge; Licker-in speed is 800 revs/min, cylinder speed 330 revs/min, doffer speed 15 revs/min, cylinder and Flat Gauge 0.23,0.23,0.254,0.254,0.3mm, weight of card sliver viscose 16.5 grams/5 meters, zein fiber 18 grams/5 meters;

3) drafting

Adopt three road draftings, strengthen workshop moisture temperature, the front leather roller of amalgamation is through antistatic treatment, and horn mouth diameter can not be too little, and mixed two, mixed three stretch oneself and yawn multiple grasp less than normal for improving the flat back zone of bar solid carbon dioxide;

4) rove

It is slightly larger that multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, when ensureing that spun yarn is normally stretched oneself and yawn, and roving twist factor grasp bigger than normal, back zone is stretched oneself and yawn multiple and is selected 1.22 times, roving twist factor 78, dry weight 3.8 grams/10 meters, roller gauge 10 × 22 × 32.5mm;

5) spun yarn

Spinning process spaces greatly in back zone, littlely stretch oneself and yawn, under the principle of heavily pressurizeing, it is slightly larger that multiple is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, selects the proparea roller that hardness is slightly low, and yarn roller spaces 20 × 35mm, nip gauge 2.5mm, and multiple 1.298 times is stretched oneself and yawn in back zone, twist factor 330;

6) winder

Suitable reduction groove drum speed, mixes up splicer, groove drum speed 800 ms/min, electronic yarn clearer parameter 1.3 × 1.5, air splicer joint;

(2) weaving process:

1) warping

This fabric total quantity of warps 8140, joining axle is 679 × 11+671 × 1, joins axle for totally 12.Use adjustable warping creel, weight of tension ring controls in 3.5g ± 0.5g scope, and full wafer warp tension is consistent, and 10, every limit yarn increases 10g tension ring, warping pressure 0.4mpa, warping speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min;

2) sizing

Converted starch is adopted to be main slurry, PVA and propylene class slurry are auxiliary, adopt enzyme desizing technique when grey cloth destarch, according to experience in the past, during employing enzyme desizing, in sizing ingredients, PVA slurry must not exceed 30% of total slurry (starch and propylene class slurry are main);

Slurry formula and technique: converted starch (HB-93) 50kg, PVA25kg, CDDF25kg, antistatic additive 1.5kg, smooth agent 2kg, caustic soda 125g, mould inhibitor (NL-4) 75ml, water 500ml;

Sizing adopts the not stratified mud jacking form of the two pressure of tandem sizing box list leaching, and Sizing Wet district cylinder temperature controls below 110 DEG C, and dry district cylinder temperature controls below 100 DEG C;

Sizing technique: slurry case temperature is 98 ~ 100 DEG C, slurry case viscosity is 11 ~ 12 seconds, and slurry pot temperature is 96 ~ 98 DEG C, and slurry pot viscosity is 8 ~ 9 seconds, the rate of sizing is 12%, and regain is 6.5%, and squeezing pressure is 15kN, the speed of a motor vehicle is 40m/min, and preliminary drying temperature is 110 DEG C, and main baking temperature is 100 DEG C;

3) weave

Use Toyota 610 air-jet loom weaving, main burner pressure 2.5kg ± 0.5kg, the auxiliary power of spraying 3.5 ~ 4kg, the speed of a motor vehicle 700 revs/min, warp tension 150kg, opening time 305 °, opening angle 32 °, Opening Travel 21,17,13,9, heald frame height 276mm, 270mm, 270mm, 267mm.