CN105456057B

CN105456057B - Water-locking and moisturizing composition with mousse texture

Info

Publication number: CN105456057B
Application number: CN201511033946.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 向琼彪; 李传茂; 林娜妹; 张伟杰; 张楚标
Original assignee: Guangdong Dan Zi Group Co Ltd; GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICALS FACTORY; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Priority date: 2015-12-31
Filing date: 2015-12-31
Publication date: 2020-02-21
Anticipated expiration: 2035-12-31
Also published as: CN105456057A

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a water-locking and moisturizing composition, in particular to a three-dimensional water-locking and moisturizing composition with mousse texture. The composition comprises: i) the high molecular water absorption material is used for releasing water; ii) film forming polymers for water retention; iii) ceramide is used for deep repair and moisturizing. The composition forms a three-dimensional water-locking moisturizing system, and can be used for moisturizing skin for a long time. In addition, the system has mousse-like texture, has unique skin feel when used, and can instantly smooth the skin.

Description

Water-locking and moisturizing composition with mousse texture

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to a composition with mousse texture, in particular to a composition with a three-dimensional water-locking and moisturizing system.

Background

Human skin is composed of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue, each of which contains moisture. The skin is directly exposed to the atmospheric environment, and can either discharge moisture from the body to the atmosphere or absorb moisture from the outside. The outermost stratum corneum of the skin should generally contain not less than 10% water, and skin with a water content of 10-20% is soft, smooth and elastic, and below 10%, the stratum corneum of the skin is too dry and even scales or cracks appear. Dry skin is prone to premature aging, and the skin is subject to scaling or cracking, which results in the loss of the barrier function of the skin, causing bacteria and viruses to enter the human body from the cracked parts, and further causing the human body to be infected with various diseases. Therefore, ensuring that the skin has sufficient moisture is very important to maintain the health of the body.

In order to keep the skin sufficiently moist, a layer of cosmetic with water-locking and moisturizing effects is usually applied on the skin surface to replenish the moisture to the skin and prevent the water in the skin from being lost. In the traditional moisturizing cosmetics, a large amount of mineral oil is added to enable the moisturizing cosmetics to stay on the surface of skin, so that the moisture of the skin is not easy to evaporate and dissipate; or a large amount of polyhydric alcohol is added to absorb moisture from the surrounding environment, so that the moisture-keeping effect is achieved.

However, mineral oil is difficult to be absorbed by skin, and polyol has a poor moisturizing effect in a dry environment. In addition, the mineral oil and fat and the high-concentration polyol are difficult to be absorbed by the skin and stay on the surface of the skin for a long time, so that the hand feeling is thick when the skin care product is used, the skin feel is sticky after the skin care product is used, pores are easy to block, and phenomena such as allergy, acne and erythra are caused.

The traditional moisturizing products have single moisturizing performance, and at least one parameter is not completely satisfactory. Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic product with multiple moisturizing effects that can continuously supply moisture to the skin, lock the moisture in the skin, and maintain the moisture of the skin throughout the day even in a dry environment.

The high molecular water absorption material is a three-dimensional network with low crosslinking degree and containing a large number of hydrophilic groups (such as carboxyl, hydroxyl, carboxylate, amide and the like). It can absorb and retain thousands of times of its own weight of water, and at the same time, it is not easy to dehydrate under the heating and pressurizing environment. Polymeric water-absorbing materials have been used in various applications: 1) daily life and hygiene articles, such as diapers, detergents; 2) industrial products such as industrial dehydrating agents, sealing materials; 3) medical and hygienic materials such as imitation cartilage, artificial skin; 4) agricultural products, such as nursery stock transplanting water-retaining agents and the like. The applications described above mostly utilize the high water absorption and water retention of the polymeric water-absorbing material.

In the cosmetic field, a water-absorbing polymer material is also frequently used, but is generally used as a thickener for improving the properties of a paste, such as imparting a mousse texture to a cosmetic. Chinese patent CN201510030499 discloses that a high-molecular water-absorbing material, namely, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, is added to an eye shadow to gelatinize water and wrap oil powder to provide smooth skin.

Hitherto, in the field of cosmetics, basically no one has used a water-absorbing polymer material for retaining and releasing water for skin. The invention mainly utilizes a high molecular water absorption material, in particular to sodium polyacrylate grafted starch as an important component for releasing water and moisturizing in cosmetics.

Disclosure of Invention

An object of the present invention is to provide a moisturizing composition having three-dimensional water-locking;

it is also an object of the present invention to provide a composition having a mousse-like texture which instantly smoothes the skin to provide optimum skin feel.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical means:

the present invention provides a water-locking moisturizing composition having a mousse texture, the composition comprising:

i) the high molecular water absorption material is used for releasing water;

ii) film forming polymers for water retention;

iii) ceramide is used for deep repair and moisturizing.

The high molecular water-absorbing material is one or a combination of more of high molecular sodium hyaluronate, polyglutamic acid and sodium polyacrylate grafted starch; sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is preferred.

The film-forming polymer is one or a combination of polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyquaternium-51; polyquaternium-51 is preferred.

The ceramide is one or a combination of more of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 1A and ceramide 6 II; one or more of ceramide 1, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6II are preferably combined.

High molecular water-absorbing material

The high molecular water absorption material contains a large amount of hydrophilic groups (such as carboxyl, hydroxyl, carboxylate group, amide group and the like), so that the high molecular water absorption material can absorb thousands of times of water by self weight, and simultaneously has a micro-crosslinked three-dimensional network space structure, so that the high molecular water absorption material can prevent molecules from further expanding, is not easy to dehydrate under heating and pressurizing, and has a water retention function.

In the composition, the weight portion of the high molecular water-absorbing material is 0.05-10; preferably 0.5 to 5 parts.

As a preferable scheme, the invention preferably selects the macromolecular water absorbing material sodium polyacrylate grafted starch.

The sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is a high molecular functional material obtained by neutralizing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with alkali and then carrying out graft copolymerization reaction with starch.

Sodium polyacrylate grafted starches are well known to those skilled in the art in the cosmetic field for use as thickeners and fillers to render products in semi-mousse form. However, the water-retaining and water-releasing agent is used in cosmetics for the first time.

The inventor finds that when the content of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch in the cosmetics is increased and the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is compounded with the film-forming polymer and the ceramide, the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch has the functions of water retention and water release. The addition amount of the water retention and release function is 2 to 5 times of that of the thickening function.

However, when the content of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch in the cosmetic is increased, the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is easily agglomerated in water and is not easily dispersed.

The research of the inventor finds that the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is dispersed by propylene glycol or butanediol, and then is added into the water phase, so that the dispersion is easy, and the prepared cosmetic has uniform and fine texture.

Further, the particle size of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is 0.6 to 60 μm, preferably 0.6 to 25 μm, and more preferably 1.0 to 12 μm.

It is highly preferred that the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is dispersed in glycerol or propylene glycol or butylene glycol to form a premix; propylene glycol is preferred; and whereby the viscosity of the premix at 28 ℃ is less than 6000mpa.s, preferably less than 3000 mpa.s.

The preferable sodium polyacrylate grafted starch can lock hundreds of times or even thousands of times of pure water by weight per se, and can release and replenish water for the skin for a long time all day.

More importantly, the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch with the particle size of 0.6-25 mu m is dispersed in water, absorbs water and swells to form tiny soft particles, and the tiny soft particles give a unique mousse-like texture to the system, can instantly smooth the skin, cover fine lines, modify pores and keep the makeup more natural and durable.

Film-forming polymers

In cosmetics, water-locking and moisture-retaining are often performed using film-forming polymers. The phospholipid polymer in the film-forming polymer can be filled between stratum corneum cells in a layered manner to form a water barrier and prevent water loss.

In the composition of the present invention, the weight portion of the film-forming polymer is 0.01 to 0.5 portion; preferably 0.05 to 0.5 parts.

In embodiments of the present invention, the preferred film-forming polymer is polyquaternium-51.

Polyquaternium-51 is a polymer with super strong holding moisture designed by imitating cell membranes, and the molecular formula of the polymer is as follows: c₁₉H₃₆NO₈P, the structural formula is shown in figure 1.

The polyquaternium-51 has the film forming effect of a hydrated gel film of a phospholipid polymer, and prevents water loss; also has the trapping effect on the irritant substance by the hydrophobic group from the butyl methacrylate, and the two substances supplement each other, thereby exerting more ideal skin care effect. The polyquaternium-51 is designed by simulating a human skin cell membrane, has better moisture retention property than hyaluronic acid, can lock the moisture of the skin, and gives longer moisturizing and smooth feeling. Meanwhile, the polyquaternium-51 has good skin affinity and high safety.

Ceramide

In the composition of the present invention, the weight portion of ceramide is 0.01-0.5 portion; preferably 0.05 to 0.5 parts.

In an embodiment of the invention, preferred ceramides are ceramide 1, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II.

Ceramides are the major constituent (> 50%) of the stratum corneum intercellular lipid bodies present on the outermost side of human skin. It can form a layered molecular complex through hydrogen bonds, promoting hydration of the epidermis, and thus improving the skin's ability to retain moisture.

Ceramide can enhance the cohesion of epidermal cells, repair the barrier function of cells, has good affinity with skin, can rapidly permeate into skin, deeply repair skin, and is helpful for removing wrinkles of skin.

The composition adopts the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch with super-strong water locking capacity as the water retention and release agent, and long-acting water is supplemented to the skin for one day; polyquaternium-51 is used for simulating cell membranes to prevent the loss of skin water; the skin is repaired by adopting the ceramide deep layer which has good affinity with the skin and can quickly permeate the skin, and the sensitive skin is kept not to be dehydrated. The three components are combined with the skin, all moisture-keeping components in the system are ensured to be surrounded by polymers, and the connection with the surface of the skin is kept, so that a three-dimensional water-locking and moisture-keeping system with the functions of water keeping and releasing of sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, film forming and water locking on the surface of polyquaternium-51 and deep repair and moisture keeping of ceramide is formed.

Preferably, the composition further comprises sodium hyaluronate, wherein the weight part of the sodium hyaluronate is 0.02-0.2, preferably 0.05-0.1.

The rest of the composition

The compositions of the present invention contain water-soluble components and oil-soluble components, and therefore the carrier suitable for the present compositions is preferably an oil-in-water cream, emulsion or gel, and may contain many other optional components.

These optional ingredients are acceptable in the cosmetic arts or provide additional utility, provided that they are physically and chemically compatible with the essential ingredients and methods of preparation described herein, and do not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other utility associated with the compositions of the present invention.

Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art and include, but are not limited to, emollients, thickeners, buffers, cosmetic astringents, film formers, humectants, fragrances, pigments, preservatives, penetration aids, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, solubilizing agents, sunscreens, antioxidants or radical scavengers, chelating agents, natural extracts and inorganic particles such as silica and boron nitride.

Carrier

Suitable carriers for the compositions of the present invention are preferably oil-in-water creams, emulsions or gels. Oil-in-water creams, emulsions or gels consist of a water phase and an oil phase. Wherein an oil phase, e.g. a lipid, oil or oily material, is present in the form of small particles or droplets and suspended in an aqueous phase surrounded by an aqueous phase. Oil-in-water creams, emulsions or gels generally contain from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, of a dispersed oil phase and from 1% to 99%, preferably from 50% to 90%, of a continuous aqueous phase.

Preferred creams, lotions or gels have a sufficient consistency or yield point to prevent deposition of the particles. The carrier may itself be inert or may itself have a dermatological benefit, it should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and it should not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other utility benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention.

Preferred carriers suitable for the present compositions have an apparent viscosity of from about 5000 to about 200000mpa.s, for example: preferred creams have an apparent viscosity of from about 30000 to about 150000 mpa.s; preferred emulsions have an apparent viscosity of from 5000 to about 30000 mpa.s. The apparent viscosity can be determined using a Brookfield DVII RV viscometer, spindle TD, at 5rpm, or using an equivalent thereof. After the prepared carrier is stabilized (usually, after preparation of the carrier, it is left to stand at 25 ℃ under ambient pressure for at least 24 hours), the carrier is subjected to viscosity measurement. The precision of the carrier was measured after 30 seconds of rotation of the spindle at 25 ℃.

Generally, carriers suitable for the compositions of the present invention are formulated as some oil-in-water creams, emulsions or gels having a pH of 8.5 or less, and typically a pH in the range of 5.0 to 8.0, more preferably 5.5 to 7.5.

Drawings

FIG. 1 structural formula of polyquaternium-51

FIG. 2A changes in the rate of increase in skin moisture content at the age of 20-25 years

FIG. 2B change of moisture content increase rate of skin at age 25-30 years

FIG. 2C change in the rate of increase in skin moisture content at the age of 30-35 years

FIG. 3 changes in the rate of increase in skin moisture content using compositions containing different active ingredients

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others of the concepts fall within the scope of the invention.

Composition containing different components

Table 1 examples of different components

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1. uniformly dispersing the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, the xanthan gum and the sodium hyaluronate in the phase A component by using propylene glycol, then adding the mixture into a water phase pot, sequentially adding the other components in the phase A, dissolving, dispersing, uniformly mixing and heating to 75-80 ℃.

2. And sequentially adding the phase B components into an oil phase pot, heating and dissolving uniformly, and heating to 75-80 ℃.

3. Vacuumizing, pumping the phase A into an emulsifying pot, starting a stirrer, pumping the phase B into the emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 10 minutes, and stirring for 15 minutes at the temperature of 75-80 ℃.

4. Cooling with boiled cooling water, sequentially adding the C phase components at 40 ℃, and uniformly stirring.

5. Stirring and cooling to 37 ℃, and discharging.

Example 4

Moisture content test of human skin in different age groups in dehumidifying environment

Selecting 15 female volunteers of 20-35 years old, wherein 5 female volunteers of 20-25 years old are numbered as 1-5 female volunteers, and the female volunteers are used as 5 female volunteers of 25-30 years old and numbered as 6-10 female volunteers of the first age group as subjects of the second age group; 5 subjects aged 30-35, numbered 11-15, were included as subjects in the third age group. Two symmetrical areas of the face are selected and respectively used as test areas of a control group and a test group, the test is carried out in a dehumidifying environment (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the humidity is 50 percent), and the test item is a moisture content test. The test group used the water-locking moisturizing cream prepared in example 1, and the control group used the ordinary moisturizing cream prepared in comparative example 1, and both were tested under the same conditions. The moisture content was measured at the proposed time intervals for a test period of 8 hours.

Skin moisture content test:

the moisture test probe is vertically pressed on the surface of the skin to be tested by adopting a capacitance method principle, the top of the probe is pressed back for a certain distance, a spring is arranged in the probe to ensure that the top of the probe keeps 0.16N of pressure and is pressed on the surface of the skin, a result is displayed on a host within one second, and a prompt sound is given.

The facial skin was cleaned and the subject was rested in a constant environment for 30 minutes before measurement of the test site blank value was performed using a skin tester (CK, Lutomer MPA580, germany). The water-locking moisturizing cream prepared in example 1 and the ordinary moisturizing cream prepared in comparative example 1 were applied in the same amount to the symmetrical parts of the cheek according to the facial area divisions of the test group and the control group, respectively, and the moisture contents of the two areas were tested at intervals of 30 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, and 8 hours, respectively. The skin moisture content of the three groups of subjects in the test and control areas was measured and the data for each test was recorded. The results for skin moisture content are expressed by set Moisture Measurement Values (MMV) between 0 and 150. And subtracting the blank value from each test data to obtain the change of the MMV value in the time period, and dividing the change by the blank value to obtain the increase rate of the MMV value.

The skin moisture content increase rate calculation formula is as follows:

the skin moisture content increase rate [ MMVt-MMVo ]/MMVo × 100%

MMVo-MMV of skin before applying

MMVt-time period t after application skin MMV

The test results of the moisture content increase rates of example 1(EG) and comparative example 1(CG) are shown in Table 2 and FIGS. 2A-2C:

TABLE 2 skin moisture content growth rate

From the above experimental data, the following experimental results were obtained:

1. due to the difference of skin ages, the moisture content of the skin of the group with larger age is reduced more obviously in a longer time interval, and the moisture content of the control group is more obviously than that of the test group.

2. In each age group, the test group still had better moisture content in the skin over a longer time interval, whereas the control group was significantly lower than the test group under the same conditions.

In addition, according to the above test method, the water-holding moisture-retaining milk prepared in example 2 and the ordinary moisture-retaining milk prepared in comparative example 2 were used as a test and a control, and the water-holding moisture-retaining gel prepared in example 3 and the ordinary moisture-retaining gel prepared in comparative example 3 were used as a test and a control, and a test of a change in the rate of increase in the moisture content of skin was performed, and the results were obtained as follows: the skin care product containing the composition can still provide high-degree long-term water-locking and moisture-keeping performance for the skin of people of different ages even in a dehumidifying environment, and keep the skin moist all day long.

TABLE 3 compositions containing different active principles

The preparation method comprises the following steps: same as in examples 1 to 3

Example 5

Measurement of skin moisturizing effect with different combinations of active ingredients:

five arm regions were selected as test regions for example 1, comparative example 4, comparative example 5, comparative example 6, comparative example 5, comparative example 4, example 5, and comparative example 7, numbered A, B, C, D, E, respectively, from 5 subjects aged 25 to 30 in the second age group of example 4, numbered 1 to 5. The test is carried out in a dehumidifying environment (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the humidity is 50 percent), and the test item is a moisture content test. The same tests were performed under the same conditions. The moisture content was measured at the proposed time intervals for a test period of 8 hours. Skin moisture content was measured as in example 4. The test results of the moisture content increase rate are shown in table 4 and fig. 3:

TABLE 4 change in rate of increase in moisture content of skin using compositions containing different active ingredients

a: contains sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, polyquaternium-51 and ceramide

B: contains sodium polyacrylate grafted starch and polyquaternium-51

C: contains sodium polyacrylate grafted starch and ceramide

D: containing polyquaternium-51 + ceramide

E: contains sodium polyacrylate grafted starch:

the water content of the skin using E is reduced far faster than that of other groups, and particularly in the later period of the experiment, the reduction speed of the combination containing only the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is more obvious, probably because the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch in the E does not release water and retain water, but absorbs water to the skin. It is shown that the moisturizing effect is very little by only adding the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch.

The skin moisture content using A decreases at a rate lower than that of the other 4 combinations, and the moisturizing strength and durability to the skin are much better than those of products containing no or one or two of the above-mentioned active ingredients. In the composition, the three effective components have a synergistic effect on the moisturizing performance of the skin.

The composition has remarkable moisturizing and water-locking effects even in a dry environment, can provide mousse-like texture, has unique skin feel during use, and can instantly smooth the skin.

Claims

1. A water-locking moisturizing composition having a mousse texture, the composition comprising:

i) sodium polyacrylate grafted starch;

ii) polyquaternium-51;

iii) a ceramide;

the weight portion of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is 0.05-10, the weight portion of the polyquaternium-51 is 0.01-0.5, and the weight portion of the ceramide is 0.01-0.5;

the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is used as a water-retaining and water-releasing substance in the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein said sodium polyacrylate grafted starch has a particle size of 0.6 to 25 μm.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particle size of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is 1.0 to 12 μm.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide is one or more of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 1A and ceramide 6 II.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide is one or more of ceramide 1, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6 II.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is present in an amount of about 0.5 to about 5 parts by weight.

7. The composition of claim 1 wherein the polyquaternium-51 is present in an amount of 0.05 to 0.5 parts by weight.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ceramide is present in an amount of about 0.05 to about 0.5 parts by weight.

9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising sodium hyaluronate in an amount of 0.02 to 0.2 parts by weight.

10. The composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the sodium hyaluronate is present in an amount of 0.05 to 0.1 parts by weight.

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the suitable carrier is an oil-in-water cream, emulsion or gel.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the dispersant of the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch is glycerol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol.

13. The composition of claim 12 wherein the sodium polyacrylate grafted starch dispersant is propylene glycol.

14. The composition of claim 12 wherein the viscosity of the sodium polyacrylate graft-dispersed mixture is less than 6000mpa.s at 28 ℃.

15. The composition of claim 12 wherein the viscosity of the sodium polyacrylate graft-dispersed mixture is less than 3000mpa.s at 28 ℃.