CN1054284C

CN1054284C - Natural skin-care raw material-saussurea involucrata extract of alcohol

Info

Publication number: CN1054284C
Application number: CN93103434A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 阎鸿建; 马杰; 马莉; 张怀庆; 刘力
Original assignee: Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry of CAS
Current assignee: Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry of CAS
Priority date: 1993-03-25
Filing date: 1993-03-25
Publication date: 2000-07-12
Anticipated expiration: 2013-03-25
Also published as: CN1092669A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel natural raw material-extract of saussurea involucrata by using ethanol from Xinjiang for skin care. Primarily, leaching liquid is extracted from dry saussurea involucrata by ethanol hot reflux for three times at first; the leaching liquid is depressurized, concentrated, refrigerated and dried to obtain crude extract; then, the crude extract is dissolved by anhydrous ethanol; active carbon is added for heating reflux; impurities such as pigment is removed by filtration; the crude extract with active carbon is depressurized, concentrated, dried, and then dissolved by anhydrous alcohol; active carbon is added again for secondary decolourization; the crude extract is concentrated and dried to obtain the extract of saussurea involucrata by using ethanol. The extract by using ethanol is used for cosmetics for skin, and plays roles of protective agents and nutritional agents.

Description

Skin protection natural material---Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract

The invention belongs to cosmetics as human body skin protective agent and nutrient

Herba Saussureae Involueratae, have another name called the snow Flos Nelumbinis, vegetable formal name Saussurea involucrata＜Kar et kit〉Sch Bip, be that the Compositae hieracioides belongs to the perennial grass wood plant, its chemical analysis and pharmacological research, existing at home and abroad report.Root of Herba Saussureae Involueratae and herb all can be used as medicine.Warm in nature, mildly bitter flavor have promoting blood circulation to remove obstruction in the collateral, the heat radiation dehumidifying, and strong muscle tonifying YANG, the effect of anti-inflammatory and antalgic is mainly treated rheumatic arthritis, termination of pregnancy, diseases such as analgesia.Through test for many years, Herba Saussureae Involueratae is except that having pharmacological action, and it also can be used for the protective agent and the nutrient of skin.Chinese patent CN99106070,4 has illustrated that Herba Saussureae Involueratae is used for the effect of skin protection.

The objective of the invention is to, it mainly is that the bright Herba Saussureae Involueratae that will gather carries out adopting behind the airing certain process to extract ethanol extract in the Herba Saussureae Involueratae for the new natural material of skin protection---a Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, and then ethanol extract is used for series cosmetics.

Task of the present invention is the skin care item that adopt the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract to make, and shows to have good moisture preserving through trimestral animal and human body skin coating experiment in six months, improves the carefully full metabolism of skin, and delaying decrepitude of skin also has the ultraviolet anti-sunlight function simultaneously.

The present invention development the skin protection natural material---its extraction step of Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is: at first dried Saussurea involucrata is extracted with alcohol heat reflux and promptly gets lixiviating solution three times, again lixiviating solution is evaporated to the small size postlyophilization and gets crude extract, with the crude extract anhydrous alcohol solution, the active carbon of adding 5%, reflux, pigment is sloughed in filtration, impurity such as water-soluble saccharides and active carbon, be evaporated to dried, the reuse anhydrous alcohol solution, add active carbon and carry out secondary decolourization, filter, be concentrated into to do and promptly get the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, this Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is the dark brown paste, the composition that it is main: interior lipid 5-12%, sterols 1-7%, alkaloid 0-5%, albumen 1-10%, organic acid 1-10%, flavonoid 5-15%, aminoacid 4-12%, terpenoid 5-15%, to can be used for cosmetics for skin be protective skin cream to this ethanol extract simultaneously, sunscreen cream, cream kinds such as fair complexion cream.

Natural skin-care raw material-Saussurea involucrata extract of alcohol of the present invention, through animal and human's body is tested its result:

1, moisture-keeping function

The Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract shows to have good moisture preserving by three months animals and human body skin coating experiment in six months, and animal and human's body skin surface is moistening, and skin easily absorbs, and participates in and improves the carefully full metabolism of skin.

2, delaying decrepitude of skin

The zoopery determination data shows that the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract has the function that improves hydroxyl dried meat acid content in the rat skin, and hydroxyproline content reduces with the growth at age in the skin, measures its content as the index of estimating aging degree.

Select 24 of Wistara rats for use, be divided into three groups at random, skin is exposed in the back cropping, applies every group of every day 0.3%, 0.4% Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract cream frost and blank frost respectively, carries out skin appearance after 52 days, and skin histology is observed and hydroxyproline content mensuration.

Outward appearance: light, exquisiteness, delicate that the rat skin of coating ethanol extract is obviously long.

Histological observation: put to death rat and get skin outside the coating, use 10% formalin fixed, the paraffin color buries section, RE dyeing, microscopic examination organizes respectively that skin contours, each layer of squamous epithelial cancer are carefully full, sebaceous gland, sweat gland, blood vessel glue unit, fiber finer are full with blank group contrast, do not have change, illustrate skin is had no adverse effects.

Hydroxyl dried meat determined amino acid: rat skin was baked 4 hours at 105 ℃ after using the acetone defat, and each extracting degreasing dry skin 100mg adds 5.78 HCL8ml, seal the hydrolysis of rearmounted thermal source, the skin hydrolyzed solution is diluted to 20ml, 25 times of redilution, hydroxyl dried meat amino acid content in the sampling and measuring 100mg skin:

Group	Number of animals	Hydroxyl dried meat amino acid content (mg/100mg dried bark)
Group	Number of animals		Blank 0.3% 0.4%	8 8 8	2.97±0.30 3.68±0.36 3.57±0.29

5, uvioresistant anti-sunlight function:

Herba Saussureae Involueratae is grown in below the 2500-4000 granular snow line above sea level, is subjected to the irradiation of intensive ultraviolet, and the inventor has done the sun-proof test of uvioresistant to the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract.

According to " cosmetics safety assessment process and method " the cream frost that contains the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract has been done the test of skin light poison, and with the sunscreen cream product of commercially available four kinds of different trades mark such as violet sunscreen cream, with long wave and ultraviolet B radiation irradiation, carried out paired observation respectively.

The cream frost that will contain the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is applied to respectively on the white unhairing moonrat skin (back) with violet sunscreen cream, green extra large sunscreen cream, with " ultraviolet skin therapeutic equipment " direct irradiation is carried out at the coating position after 30 minutes, irradiation dose (shining for 80 seconds approximately) till the erythema occur with local skin; Compare not being coated with the white group in prescription exposure cell simultaneously.Every day, coating shone once; Continuous 14 days, stop coating, the irradiation back continues to observe 3 days, and get its local skin and subcutaneous tissue and carry out pathological examination, the result: do not see untoward reaction, the cream frost that contains the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract has obvious uvioresistant effect, is a kind of sunscreen of full spectrum.

4, make skin wound healing, prevent the skin be full of cracks

Select 9 of Wistar rats for use, be divided into three groups at random, 3 every group, the back is cut and is cut its skin, and, observe the wound and all heal after one week of white coating with the cream that contains variable concentrations Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract respectively for every group, skin Lightening, NIP takes place.Skin histology after the healing is observed to find no to stimulate and the carefully full phenomenon that takes place of inflammation.Other gets 3 rat back cropping and cuts corium for blank group, scabs pachylosis after the week.

The Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is very remarkable to skin wound healing effect fruit, and be full of cracks has positive effect to human body skin, can modulate the chapstick that hands, foot are used.

Show that by experiment the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract not only all has no stimulation to the skin of normal damage, and have anti-inflammation and sterilization, blood circulation promoting, it is carefully full active to strengthen skin, promotes the effect of skin wound healing.Can make rough skin become bright fine and smooth delicate.

The median lethal dose(LD 50) of Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract (L050) is 53.64 ± 5.44 gram/kilogram rats, the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is a kind of novel skin protection natural material, not only meet both at home and abroad, the trend that " goes back to nature ", and very high economic benefit is arranged as the novel material of cosmetics and external preparation for skin skin care item.

Embodiment 1:

Get 10 kilograms of dried Saussurea involucratas, extract three times with 100 kilograms of hot refluxs of ethanol and be about to lixiviating solution, then lixiviating solution is evaporated to the small size postlyophilization, getting crude extract dissolves crude extract for 1.5 kilograms again with dehydrated alcohol (in right amount), the active carbon of adding 5%, reflux is filtered and is sloughed pigment, impurity such as water-soluble saccharides and active carbon, be evaporated to dried, 0.45 kilogram of extract, the reuse anhydrous alcohol solution, add activity and carried out secondary decolourization, filter, be concentrated into dried, with 0.37 kilogram of extract.

Embodiment 2:

The Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract that extracts is used for protective skin cream (unit weight part)

(a) at first with 10 parts of stearic acid, 1 part of hexadecanol, 5 parts of liquid paraffin, 5 parts of lanolines, 0.1 part of cholesterol is heated to 90 ℃ of fusings;

(b) with 0.4 part of Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, 1 part of mixing of polysorbate60;

(c) again with 3 parts of propylene glycol, 2 parts of glycerol, antioxidant, 1 part of deionized water surplus of antiseptic mix homogeneously;

(d) will (a) after the heat fused add among the C behind the mix homogeneously and stirred 30 minutes, falling and wetly stirring to 60 ℃ of adding (b), fall and wetly add 5 parts in essence to 50 ℃, falling wets to 40 ℃ of packings gets final product.

Embodiment 3:

Extract the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract and be used for fair complexion cream (Unit Weight part)

(a) at first with oil phase: 15 parts of white oils, 5 parts in Cera Flava, 10 parts of stearic acid, 1 part of hexadecanol, 2 parts of Adeps caprae seu ovis, 2 parts of 90 ℃ of dissolvings of glycerol monostearate;

(b) again with water, 1 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of propylene glycol, 0.1 part of vitamin c.1 part of sodium benzoate is heated to 90 ℃ (15 minutes);

(c) again oil phase is added heat and reach 80 ℃ aqueous phase, vigorous stirring is cooled to after 50 ℃, adds 0.3 part of Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, 0.5 part in essence, and the deionized water surplus slowly stirs, and is cooled to 45 ℃ of discharging packings and gets final product.

Embodiment 4:

Extract the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract and be used for sunscreen cream (Unit Weight part)

(a) get 2.0 parts of silicone, 18.5 parts of myristic acid isopropyl esters, 0.2 part of hexadecanol, 4.0 parts of pure fat acids, standby to 2-2 ethyoxyl-1.5 parts of mix homogeneously of 5-methyl cinnamic acid;

(b) get 1.2 parts of triethanolamine, 1.5 parts of sodium lauryl sulphates, 1.2 parts of polysorbate60s, 0.5 part of Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, mix homogeneously is standby.

(c) get antioxidant, 1 part of antiseptic, deionized water surplus mixing for standby use;

(d) (a) mixture and (c) mixture are heated to 90 ℃ respectively; Then (a) mixture is slowly added (b) mixture and stir, 80 ℃ of stirrings were cooled to 55 ℃ in 30 minutes, added (c) mixture and added 0.5 part of stirring of essence again, were cooled to 45 ℃ of dischargings packings and got final product.

Claims

1, a kind of skin protection natural material---Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, it is characterized in that, the extraction step of this Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is: at first dried Saussurea involucrata is extracted with alcohol heat reflux and promptly get lixiviating solution three times, again lixiviating solution is evaporated to the small size postlyophilization and gets crude extract, with the crude extract anhydrous alcohol solution, the active carbon of adding 5%, reflux filter sloughs pigment, water-soluble saccharides and active carbon impurity are evaporated to dried, the reuse anhydrous alcohol solution, add active carbon and carry out secondary decolourization, filter, be concentrated into to do and promptly get the Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract, this ethanol extract is the dark brown paste, its Main Ingredients and Appearance is interior lipid 5-12%, sterols 1-7%, alkaloid 0-5%, albumen 1-10%, organic acid 1-10%, flavonoid 5-15%, aminoacid 4-12%, terpenoid 5-15%.

2, skin protection natural material according to claim 1-Herba Saussureae Involueratae ethanol extract is characterized in that this ethanol extract is used for the cosmetics for skin protective skin cream, and sunscreen cream is in the fair complexion cream.