CN104264356A - 80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布及制备方法 - Google Patents

80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布及制备方法 Download PDF

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CN104264356A
CN104264356A CN201410547069.6A CN201410547069A CN104264356A CN 104264356 A CN104264356 A CN 104264356A CN 201410547069 A CN201410547069 A CN 201410547069A CN 104264356 A CN104264356 A CN 104264356A
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wool
fabric
cashmere
spun silk
shrinkage
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朱炫钊
朱森波
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JIAXING KINGKAIYUE KNITTING Co Ltd
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JIAXING KINGKAIYUE KNITTING Co Ltd
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Publication of CN104264356A publication Critical patent/CN104264356A/zh
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
    • D06B7/08—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of fabrics of indefinite length
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic System
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/012—Alike front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0121—Two hairy surfaces, e.g. napped or raised
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及一种面料的制备方法。80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布的制备方法，该方法包括以下的步骤：开幅、清水定型烘干、磨毛、丝光、第二次定型、橡毯预缩、蒸呢和汽蒸预缩。制备的拉绒布，同时具备绢丝、羊绒和羊毛的特性，具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖,色泽自然柔和,柔韧，有弹性。

Description

80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布及制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料的制备方法，尤其涉及一种提花拉绒布的制备方法。
背景技术
绢丝具有支数高，光泽润美，手感柔和，适于制造轻软的高级织物。
羊毛具有高吸水性：羊毛为非常好的亲水性纤维，穿着非常舒适。保暖性：因羊毛具天然卷曲，可以形成许多不流动的空气区间作为屏障。耐用性：羊毛有非常好的拉伸性及弹性恢复性，并具有特殊的毛鳞结构以及极好的弯曲性，因此它也有很好的外观保持性。
羊绒具有纤细、柔软保暖, 色泽自然柔和, 柔韧，有弹性。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布的制备方法，采用该方法制备的拉绒布，同时具备绢丝、羊绒和羊毛的特性，具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖, 色泽自然柔和, 柔韧，有弹性。
为了实现上述的目的，本发明采用了以下的技术方案：
80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布的制备方法，该方法包括以下的步骤：
1）原料准备：165N/2绢80/羊绒10/羊毛10色纱；
2）织造：在34寸32G双面提花机上，按72路排针，在电脑软件中编辑设计好花型，按电脑版图形及配色将色纱相应的接入进纱路数，将色纱均匀织入；
3）开幅；采用卧式开幅机，开幅辊线速度<50m/min；
4）清水定型烘干；
5）磨毛：印染，磨 毛 ，柔 软，整理；
6）丝光工艺：干坯布开幅接头直接上机做轻碱丝光，丝光过程中先按100g/L加Fe3+螯合分散剂改善水质，NaOH浓度200-250g/L，0.2%丝光渗透剂，按25m/min常温丝光，碱液轧洗后在平洗时加90g/L冰醋酸进行酸碱中和，PH值≧7，并起固色作用；
7）二次定型：二次定型加40~80g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂58~65g/L、滑爽硅油140~160g/L，温度145~160℃，超喂25m/min；
8）橡毯预缩：橡毯温度应控制在60~70℃，车速在30~35m/min；
9）蒸呢及预缩工艺：对丝光及定型后织物进连续加压蒸呢机进行蒸呢，蒸汽压力6Pa以上，20m/min，蒸呢后面料由汽蒸预缩机及毛毯预缩机对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整；
10）  汽蒸预缩：机械速度，20-30m/min，饱和蒸汽3-3.5Bar，压缩空气5Bar，对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
本发明的另外一个目的是提供采用上述的方法制备的拉绒布。
本发明由于采用了上述的技术方案，制备的拉绒布，同时具备绢丝、羊绒和羊毛的特性，具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖, 色泽自然柔和, 柔韧，有弹性。
具体实施方式
80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布的制备方法，该方法包括以下的步骤：
1）原料准备：165N/2绢80/羊绒10/羊毛10色纱；
2）织造：在34寸32G双面提花机上，按72路排针，在电脑软件中编辑设计好花型，按电脑版图形及配色将色纱相应的接入进纱路数，将色纱均匀织入；
3）开幅；采用卧式开幅机，开幅辊线速度<50m/min；
4）清水定型烘干；
5）磨毛：印染，磨 毛 ，柔 软，整理；
6）丝光工艺：干坯布开幅接头直接上机做轻碱丝光，丝光过程中先按100g/L加Fe3+螯合分散剂改善水质，NaOH浓度220g/L，0.2%丝光渗透剂，按25m/min常温丝光，碱液轧洗后在平洗时加90g/L冰醋酸进行酸碱中和，PH值≧7，并起固色作用；
7）二次定型：二次定型加60g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂60g/L、滑爽硅油150g/L，温度150℃，超喂25m/min；
8）橡毯预缩：橡毯温度应控制在65℃，车速在30m/min；
9）蒸呢及预缩工艺：对丝光及定型后织物进连续加压蒸呢机进行蒸呢，蒸汽压力6Pa以上，20m/min，蒸呢后面料由汽蒸预缩机及毛毯预缩机对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整；
10）  汽蒸预缩：机械速度，25m/min，饱和蒸汽3.2Bar，压缩空气5Bar，对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
上述的方法制备的拉绒布经检测的项目如下表所示。检测标准GB/T 22849-2009、GB18401-20 03“ B” 类。
 

Claims (2)

1.80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布的制备方法，其特征在于该方法包括以下的步骤：
1）原料准备：165N/2绢80/羊绒10/羊毛10色纱；
2）织造：在34寸32G双面提花机上，按72路排针，在电脑软件中编辑设计好花型，按电脑版图形及配色将色纱相应的接入进纱路数，将色纱均匀织入；
3）开幅；采用卧式开幅机，开幅辊线速度<50m/min；
4）清水定型烘干；
5）磨毛：印染，磨 毛 ，柔 软，整理；
6）丝光工艺：干坯布开幅接头直接上机做轻碱丝光，丝光过程中先按100g/L加Fe3+螯合分散剂改善水质，NaOH浓度200-250g/L，0.2%丝光渗透剂，按25m/min常温丝光，碱液轧洗后在平洗时加90g/L冰醋酸进行酸碱中和，PH值≧7，并起固色作用；
7）二次定型：二次定型加40~80g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂58~65g/L、滑爽硅油140~160g/L，温度145~160℃，超喂25m/min；
8）橡毯预缩：橡毯温度应控制在60~70℃，车速在30~35m/min；
9）蒸呢及预缩工艺：对丝光及定型后织物进连续加压蒸呢机进行蒸呢，蒸汽压力6Pa以上，20m/min，蒸呢后面料由汽蒸预缩机及毛毯预缩机对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整；
10）汽蒸预缩：机械速度，20-30m/min，饱和蒸汽3-3.5Bar，压缩空气5Bar，对面料的横向、纵向缩水率，织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
2.根据权利要求1所述的方法制备的拉绒布。
CN201410547069.6A 2014-10-16 2014-10-16 80%绢丝10%羊绒10%羊毛拉绒布及制备方法 Pending CN104264356A (zh)

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Application publication date: 20150107