CN104264352A - Production method of double-side two-way jacquard fabric and double-sided two-way jacquard fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method and product of a double-sided bidirectional jacquard fabric, belonging to the technical field of production of weft-knitted double-sided bidirectional jacquard products in the textile industry. The traditional weft knitting computerized jacquard equipment can only realize single-sided jacquard, and can only display the front pattern. The present invention uses a new type of double-sided computerized jacquard equipment for production. Control the knitting action of the upper and lower knitting needles, thereby inventing a new knitting method, through the design of threading yarn, pattern design, shading design, and specific needle-out technology, to produce special double-sided two-way jacquard fabrics , in order to solve the problem that the traditional jacquard fabric has only one side with flowers and single color, so that the produced fabric has patterns on both the front and back sides, which can be used as the use surface.

Description

Design method and product of double-sided bidirectional jacquard fabric

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of production of weft-knitted jacquard products in the textile industry, and in particular relates to a design method and product of a double-sided bidirectional jacquard fabric.

Background technique

With the improvement of people's living standards, the types and styles of clothing fabrics are also constantly changing and updating, and the use of weft knitted fabrics is becoming more and more extensive. In addition to the comfort of wearing, people's pursuit of beauty is becoming more and more intense, which inevitably requires higher and higher requirements for the appearance of fabrics. The weft-knitted jacquard fabric has a variety of pattern changes, which can meet more aesthetic needs of consumers.

Using traditional weft-knitting computerized jacquard equipment can only realize single-sided jacquard of weft-knitted fabrics. All the displays are the front patterns of the fabrics. Single, so in actual use, only the front side is used as the use surface, and the utilization rate of the fabric is not high. In order to further improve the multi-level changes of fabric patterns, the present invention adopts a new type of double-sided computerized jacquard equipment for production, and electronic needle selection devices are installed on the needle cylinders and dials to control the knitting actions of the upper and lower knitting needles respectively. Invented a new weaving method for weft-knitted fabrics to produce double-sided two-way jacquard fabrics with a special style, so as to solve the problem of traditional jacquard fabrics with flowers on only one side and single color, so that the produced fabrics can be produced on both sides All have patterns and can be utilized as use surfaces.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of this invention is to provide a weaving method capable of producing double-sided jacquard fabrics with different front and back colors and front and back shapes in order to solve the above-mentioned deficiencies in the prior art. Jacquard products, while ensuring the smooth weaving of front and back jacquards, it can also naturally form a "hidden pattern" style, and can realize 2-color, 3-color...N-color jacquards, making the pattern structure and color level of the fabric more diverse. By combining special raw materials, the scope of use of such fabrics can be further expanded and the product grade can be improved. Whether it is used as clothing fabrics or as decorative fabrics such as curtains and tablecloths, it can receive ideal results. The feature of this kind of fabric with patterns on both sides can obviously improve the utilization rate of the product and better meet the market demand.

The technical scheme that the present invention adopts is as follows:

In order to achieve double-sided special-shaped patterns, the jacquard operations of the dial and needle cylinder need to be controlled independently, so that the dial and needle cylinder can be knitted separately according to the information of the pattern pattern; the jacquard area is knitted in a full-needle manner to form Solid color patterns, the shading area outside the jacquard area is woven with a specific regular weave.

In order to achieve the effect of mixed color changes in the fabric, the shading area can be combined with the number of colored yarns to design a variety of small loop weaves for weaving, and finally realize the mixed color effect with different shades and rich color layers on both sides of the fabric.

In addition, the existing production process of double-sided and bidirectional jacquard fabrics requires yarn threading configuration. To realize N-color jacquard, N kinds of colored yarns must be used, and the yarns must be threaded in the order of 1, 2...N. The dyed yarn in each row needs to participate in weaving. And the electronic needle selection device of the novel double-sided computerized jacquard equipment used in this invention will directly control the working state of each knitting needle according to the pattern information on the front and back sides, and pick the colored yarn out of the needle knitting in the place where there is a pattern. The shading is woven according to the fixed structure, thus forming the unique process of double-sided bi-directional jacquard fabric.

The pattern diagram of the present invention is formed by superimposing the front and back patterns, and its purpose is to make the front and back patterns independent and non-overlapping, so as to ensure the integrity of the pattern.

The front and back pattern design of the present invention includes the combined design of the front and back pattern shapes and colors.

The shading weave design of the present invention needs to be combined with the total number N of jacquard colors. For example, 2-color jacquard can be designed with 1+1 twill, 1+2 twill, 2+2 twill, etc.

Based on the above technical scheme, this invention discloses a method and product for weaving double-sided bidirectional jacquard fabrics. The equipment used in the method is a double-sided bidirectional computerized jacquard circular weft machine, which is characterized in that the double-sided bidirectional computerized jacquard circular weft The dial and needle cylinder of the machine are equipped with jacquard devices, which are used to produce double-sided bidirectional jacquard fabrics, and the needles are selected for knitting according to the knitting information of the pattern diagram, and the design and specific knitting are carried out according to the following design methods:

(1) Yarn threading design: the yarn is wrapped around the circular weft machine, and each yarn is worn on the yarn guide of each path for the circular weft machine to weave; assuming that the total number of jacquard colors of the fabric is N, a The yarn threading cycle includes at least 1, 2, ..., i, ..., N colored yarns, that is, the i-th colored yarn is respectively worn on the i-th, i+N, i+2N... roads, and the cycle is repeated according to this rule Thread the yarn until it is fully threaded. Due to the different yarn colors and fabric weights, it is necessary to adjust the bending depth, yarn feeding length, and pulling tension to ensure uniform density on the front and back sides;

(2) Pattern design: Both the front pattern and the back pattern of the fabric are designed on a pattern diagram, as long as there is no overlapping area between the front pattern and the back pattern, it can be guaranteed that they will not affect each other during weaving . In order to ensure that the dial and needle cylinder of the machine can knit smoothly in these pattern areas, different colors are used to distinguish them in the weft knitting CAD, so as to define their own knitting actions; for example, the front pattern and the reverse pattern can be respectively Black and white are two solid colors for filling, and the shading area needs to be covered with shading texture, which is a regular small pattern composed of the colors of the existing jacquard areas on the front and back. For example, the shading area can be black, The 1-by-1 organization with white blocks appearing alternately is filled;

(3) Shading design: Shading textures vary widely. If the total number of jacquard dyed yarns is N during design, there can only be N types of texture color blocks at most. In addition, the ratio of the number of color blocks in the tissue directly affects the effect of color mixing, and the color depth can vary greatly. When N=2, there are only two color blocks of black and white in the two shading textures. When N=3, the three kinds of shading tissues all have three kinds of color blocks: black, white and gray. When N=4, the 4 kinds of shading tissues have 4 kinds of color blocks: black, white, dark gray, and light gray; and so on, the larger the value of N, the more the number of shading color blocks, and the texture pattern changes richer;

(4) Weaving process: The weaving process is related to the number of design and color areas. When the design and color areas are designed as A, B, C, ..., N, and there are N total, the corresponding number of weaving ways is also designed as 1, 2, 3, ... ..., n, there are also n, that is, the number of N is equal to n. During the knitting process, when knitting in the first way, all the needle cylinder needles in the design and color area A are knitted, and the dial needles are knitted every N-1 needles; In the 2-way knitting, all the needles in the needle cylinder of the design and color area B are knit, and the needles on the dial are knitted every N-1 needles; Knitting with N-1 needles; when knitting in the nth way, all the N dial needles in the design and color area are knitted, and the cylinder needles are knitted every N-1 needles; the shading area is always knit with dial needles and needle cylinder needles Knit every N-1 needles.

Carry out the production of double-sided two-way jacquard fabric according to above-mentioned design method, have obtained the product that does not have on the market so far. The characteristics of this product are:

(1) The front and back of the fabric have independent patterns with different colors and shapes, and there are 2-color, 3-color, 4-color, ..., N-color multi-color jacquards;

(2) If the total number of jacquard colors is N, the shading area in the pattern diagram is also covered with an equal number of color block structures;

(3) The jacquard area is knitted with all needles to form a solid color pattern, while the shading area is knitted with regular needles such as sesame dots and twill to achieve a mixed color effect of different shades;

(4) The density of the jacquard area is different from that of the shading area, and the invisible pattern formed by the jacquard on the other side of the fabric can be seen on the front or back.

The advantages of the present invention are:

(1) Adopt special new double-sided computerized jacquard equipment, double-sided two-way computerized jacquard circular weft machine, and use single-needle electronic needle selection technology to weave double-sided different pattern jacquard fabrics, which have both structural effects and color effects;

(2) Since the density of the jacquard area and the density of the shading area are different, the "invisible" pattern formed by the jacquard on the other side of the fabric can also be seen on the front or back, which makes the structure of the fabric design and color richer. Both surfaces can be used as the front surface, which can greatly improve product utilization;

(3) Through the transformation of the shading structure, the color mixing effect can be realized, and the color level of the fabric can be further enriched;

(4) Combining special raw materials can further expand the scope of use of such fabrics, thereby significantly improving product grades.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is threading setting diagram;

Fig. 2 is pattern design diagram;

Figure 3 is the shading structure under different N values;

Fig. 4 is embodiment 1 pattern effect figure;

Fig. 5 is embodiment 1 craft weaving figure;

Fig. 6 is the effect figure of embodiment 2 pattern;

Fig. 7 is embodiment 2 process weaving figure;

Fig. 8 is the effect figure of embodiment 3 pattern;

Figure 9 is a weaving diagram of embodiment 3.

Detailed ways

Figure 1 is a diagram of yarn threading settings, Figure 2 is a diagram of pattern design, and Figure 3 is a diagram of shading under different N values.

As shown in Figure 1, the yarn is wound around the circular weft machine in the form shown in Figure 1, and each yarn is passed on the yarn guide of each path for the circular weft machine to weave. As shown in Figure 2, both the front and back patterns of the fabric are designed on a pattern diagram, where the pattern area A is the front pattern, the pattern area B is the reverse pattern, and C is the shading area.

Example 1

2-color jacquard craft

(1) Yarn threading design: the dyed yarn cycle is 2, that is, dyed yarn 1 is worn on the 1st, 3, 5, 7... odd-numbered roads, dyed yarn 2 is worn on the 2nd, 4, 6, 8... even-numbered roads, The two yarns have different colors, and at the same time, taking into account the weight of the fabric, adjust the bending depth, yarn feeding length, and pulling tension to ensure uniform density on the front and back.

(2) Pattern design: As shown in Figure 4, the pattern area A is the front pattern, the pattern area B is the reverse pattern, and the area C is the shading area. At this time, the front and back patterns are superimposed on the same pattern diagram , but they are independent and do not overlap each other.

(3) Knitting process: as shown in Figure 5, when knitting in the first way, all the needles of the needle cylinder in the design and color area A in the dotted line frame are knitted, and the needles of the dial are knitted every other needle; when knitting in the second way , all the needles in the pattern area B are knitted, and the needles in the needle cylinder are knitted every other needle; in the shading area C, the dial needles and cylinder needles are always used for knitting every other needle; at this time, The color and shape of the pattern on the reverse side are different, and the invisible pattern on this side can be observed only by looking at one side of the fabric.

Example 2

3-color jacquard craft

(1) Yarn threading setting: the colored yarn cycle is 3, that is, colored yarn 1 is worn on the 1st, 4, 7, 10... road, colored yarn 2 is worn on the 2nd, 5, 8, 11... road, colored yarn 3 is worn on 3, 6, 9, 12... on the road number, and the yarn color is different. At the same time, taking into account the weight of the fabric, adjust the bending depth, yarn feeding length, and pulling tension to ensure uniform density on the front and back.

(2) Pattern design: As shown in Figure 6, the pattern areas A and B are the front pattern, the pattern area C is the reverse pattern, and the area D is the shading area. In the pattern diagram, they are independent and do not overlap each other; the suit area A and B are represented by black and gray respectively, the suit area C is represented by white, and the area D is covered by a 1+ pattern composed of black, white and gray blocks. 1+1 twill weave.

(3) Knitting process: as shown in Figure 7, when knitting in the first knitting way, all the cylinder needles in the design and color area A in the dotted line frame are knitted, and the dial needles are knit every two needles; in the second knitting way, the dotted line In the design and color area B in the frame, the needle cylinder needles are all out of knitting, and the dial needles are knitted every other two needles; when knitting the third way, the design and color area C needles in the dotted line frame are all out of the needle knitting, and the needle cylinder needles are out every other needle. Knit with two needles. The shading area D is always knitted with dial needles and cylinder needles every two needles.

Example 3

4-color jacquard craft

(1) Yarn threading setting: the colored yarn cycle is 4, that is, colored yarn 1 is worn on the 1st, 5, 9, 13... roads, colored yarn 2 is worn on the 2nd, 6, 10, 14... roads, colored yarns 3 is worn on 3,7,11,15... road, colored yarn 4 is worn on the 4th, 8,12,16... road, and yarn color is different. At the same time, taking into account the weight of the fabric, adjust the bending depth, yarn feeding length, and pulling tension to ensure uniform density on the front and back.

(2) Pattern design: As shown in Figure 8, the pattern areas A and B are the front pattern, the pattern areas C and D are the reverse pattern, and the area E is the shading area. Zhang Hua type diagram, but they are independent and do not overlap each other. The color areas A and B are respectively represented by black and light gray, the color areas C and D are respectively represented by dark gray and white, and the area E is paved with 1+1 consisting of four color blocks of black, white, dark gray and light gray. +1+1 twill weave.

(3) Knitting process: As shown in Figure 9, when knitting in the first knitting way, all needle cylinder needles in the design and color area A in the dotted line frame are knitted, and the dial needles are knitted every three needles; when knitting in the second way, the dotted line In the design and color area B in the frame, the needle cylinder needles are all out of the knitting, and the dial needles are knitted every three needles; when knitting the third way, the design and color area C needles in the dotted line frame are all out of the needle knitting, and the needle cylinder needles are out every other needle. Knitting with three needles; when knitting in the fourth way, the dial needles in the design and color area D in the dotted line frame are all knitted, and the needle cylinder needles are knitted every three needles; the shading area E is always knit with dial needles and needle cylinders. Knitting is carried out by stitching every three stitches. At this time, the color and shape of the patterns on the front and back sides are different. While viewing the patterns on one side of the fabric, you can also see the invisible pattern formed by the jacquard on the other side of the fabric.

Claims (2)

1. the braid method of a two-sided two-way jacquard fabric, the equipment used in this braid method is two-sided two-way computer jacquard circular knitting machine, it is characterized in that, the dials, syringe of two-sided two-way computer jacquard circular knitting machine all install jacquard attachment additional, and carry out design and concrete braiding according to the braiding information of flower pattern figure according to following method for designing:

(1) to entry design: yarn is centered around around circular knitting machine, for circular knitting machine braiding on the thread-carrier that each root yarn is through each road, when the jacquard weave color of fabric adds up to N, then determine one entry that circulation at least includes 1,2 ..., i ..., N root dyed yarn, entrying by this regular cycles, i.e. No. i-th dyed yarn is through i-th respectively, i+N, i+2N ... Lu Shang, until wear full, regulate sinking depth, defeated yarn length, tractive tension force, ensure that positive and negative even density is consistent;

(2) patterning design: jacquard fabric front flower pattern, reverse side flower pattern all design on a flower pattern figure, and between front flower pattern and reverse side flower pattern, there is no overlapping region, in weft-knitted CAD, utilize different colours to distinguish, shading region then also needs to spread shading tissue;

(3) shading design: shading organizes color lump quantity equal with jacquard weave color sum;

(4) weaving: when pattern zone design become A, B, C ..., N, time total N number of, the way of corresponding braiding is also designed with 1,2,3 ..., n, total n, quantity and the n of N are equal, in braiding process when the 1st tunnel braiding, the full knitting needle of pattern region A cyclinder needle, coverer one is every N-1 knitting needle; During the 2nd tunnel braiding, the full knitting needle of pattern region B cyclinder needle, coverer one is every N-1 knitting needle; During the 3rd tunnel braiding, the full knitting needle of pattern region C coverer, cyclinder needle one is every N-1 knitting needle; During the n-th tunnel braiding, the full knitting needle of pattern region N coverer, cyclinder needle one is every N-1 knitting needle; Shading region is then every N-1 knitting needle all the time with coverer, cyclinder needle one.

2., according to the jacquard fabric product that method for designing described in claim 1 is produced, it is characterized in that:

(1) the fabric positive and negative decorative pattern that all has separately independent and color, form to have nothing in common with each other, and have 2 looks, 3 looks, 4 looks ..., N look multi-color jacquard;

(2) if jacquard weave color total number is N, then in flower pattern figure, shading region is also covered with the color lump tissue of equal number;

(3) the full knitting needle in jacquard weave region, form pure color flower pattern, shading region then with sesame point, twill or other organization rule knitting needle, realizes deep mixed color blending effect;

(4) jacquard weave areal concentration is different from shading region, all can see in front or reverse side the stealthy flower pattern that the jacquard weave of fabric another side is formed.