CN104164740A - Production process of 200-220g/m<2> spun silk knitted garment fabric - Google Patents
Production process of 200-220g/m<2> spun silk knitted garment fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a production process of 200-220g/m<2> spun silk knitted garment fabric. The production process comprises the following steps that 120N/2 barreled spun silk plied yarn and single-face plain weave are adopted in the process specification design, and the gram weight, transverse density and longitudinal density of fabric for printing are 200 G/M<2> to 220 G/M<2>, 62 meshes/5 cm and 82 meshes/5 cm respectively; in the spinning barreling procedure, the twist of cabling is 700 T/m to 800 T/m, and the weight of an tension sheet in the spooling process is 18 g to 22 g; in the knitting procedure, 18G single-face circular machine knitting is adopted, a silk yarn lubricating device containing 22# knitting emulsified oil is arranged at the position of a yarn guide hole of a creel, looping is carried out in a double-yarn feeding and double-yarn knitting mode, the yarn feeding tension is 4 CN to 5 CN, the yarn conveying length of a yarn conveying disc is 16.5 cm/50 stitches, the number of knitting ways is 42, and the coiling speed of raw gray fabric volumes is 20 mm/turn; the refining procedure has the steps of primary refining, oxygen bleaching, cleaning, whitening and normal-temperature cleaning in sequence. After the production process is adopted, the fabric is even in knitting looping, small in knot, few in flaw, high in cloth cover flatness and good in moisture absorption, and the obtained braided fabric is beneficial for even printing and coloring, and can be adopted as the fabric of outerwear and underwear.
Description
[technical field]
The present invention relates to a kind of production technology that is suitable for the specific Gram Mass spun silk knitted fabric of having of stamp, specifically relate to a kind of 200～220g/m
2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric, the spun silk knitted fabric obtaining by this technique both can be used for underwear fabric, also can be used as the outer garment material of wearing.
[background technology]
Along with people's living standard improves day by day, there is the natural fabric material of good easing characteristic, especially mulberry silk and spun silk fabric, at liking of people extremely in spring and summer autumn.In hot summer, the clothes of mulberry silk or spun silk become people's luxury goods especially.Mulberry silk, spun silk belong to natural protein fibre, have good water imbibition, soft, comfortable, and skin is had to health-care function, have the good reputation of " fiber queen ", more have the title of " artificial skin ".General silk fabrics product is weaved in the majority with tatting, the fabric that silk woven is woven into by warp and parallel is not having silk knit thing good aspect elasticity, gas permeability and snugness of fit, and therefore, silk knit fabric was flourish in recent years, gradually popular on market.
Mulberry silk knit fabric is compared with spun silk knit fabric, and mulberry silk knit fabric feel is too soft, too next to the skin, more for making the fabric of underwear for a long time; And the stiffness of spun silk knit fabric is relatively good, cost ratio mulberry silk is cheap, not only can make underwear, more can make outer clothes (just) dress of wearing, possess whole premium properties of silk knitted fabrics, gloss is graceful moist, not only well-pressed, ventilative, dangle elegant, and can be used as colory spun silk knit fabric that can stamp.Fabric is after stamp, and designs and varieties are various, is highly suitable for makeing the high-grade stamp spun silk skirt of inside and outside clothing.
Design grammes per square metre is 200～220g/M
2one side plain weave spun silk knitted fabric, common process need to weave and obtain on 24G one side circular knitting machine, the single inlet wire of inlet wire, line props up as 55N/2～65N/2.As everyone knows, grammes per square metre is decided to be 200～220g/m
2its advantage of fabric be: feel is neither too hard, nor too soft, weight is moderate and it is well-pressed not lose, and not only can make underwear, more can be processed into outer clothes dress.Yet, the doublet cord that spun silk forms through spinning, elasticity is strong, and hardness is large, directly be used for crooked when knitting, torsional deflection is poor, be difficult for forming uniform coil, when knitting, the generation broken hole of easily press-offing causes float, and, through solid wire braiding lopping, easily produce float, have that knot is excessive, the deficiency of cloth cover poor flatness.
[summary of the invention]
The object of this invention is to provide and a kind ofly weave that lopping is even, knot is little, fault is few, cloth surface evenness is high, good hygroscopicity, be conducive to 200～220g/m of stamp
2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric.
For this reason, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:
200～220g/m
2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric, this production technology comprises the following steps successively:
(1) process specification design
Raw material adopts 120N/2 wound packages spun silk strand, and tissue design adopts one side plain weave, for grammes per square metre and the horizontal stroke of stamp fabric, indulge density and be respectively: 200～220G/M
2, 62 orders/5cm, 82 orders/5cm.
(2) spin into cylinder
On doubler twister, carry out doubling twisted filament operation, and the twist of twisting with the fingers is 700～800T/m, on bobbin winder, carry out winder operation, the weight of influence of winding tension by controlling tension piece is in the scope of 18～22g, processing obtains the required wound packages spun silk strand specification of step (1), used for braiding.
(3) knitting process
Adopt 18G one side circular knitting machine to weave, and the thread eye position of creel is provided with the silk thread lubricating arrangement that fills 22# emulsifiable oil for knitting in this circular knitting machine, braiding way is decided to be 42 tunnels, inlet wire lopping mode adopts two-wire inlet wire two-wire braiding lopping, and the green compact braided fabric weight obtaining after lower machine and horizontal stroke, vertical density are respectively: 180～190G/M
2, 52 orders/5cm, 90 orders/5cm.Wherein,
Weaving condition: inlet wire tension force is 4～5CN, the defeated line length of defeated drum is 16.5cm/50 pin, braiding way Wei42 road, green compact cloth coiling speed is that 20mm/ turns.
(4) refining procedure
Green compact braided fabric is carried out arranging after refining, and this process is followed successively by: just refining, oxygen float, clean, brighten with normal temperature and clean.Just sweetening process condition is: time 20min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40; The process conditions that oxygen floats are: time 60min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40; During cleaning, first with 80 ℃ of clear water, wash one time, last 15min, then wash one time with 60 ℃ of clear water, last 15min; The process conditions that brighten are: time 10min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40; Normal temperature scavenging period is 15min, obtains the spun silk knitwear fabric for stamp after refining.
Just practicing the prescription quality percentage adopting is: silk scouring agent 1%, soda ash 0.3%, sodium hydrosulfite 0.2%; Oxygen floats adopted prescription quality percentage: flower bulb alkali 2%, hydrogen peroxide 2%; Brighten and adopt by mass percentage brightening agent CF1～1.5%.
In the first experienced step of refining process, add certain alkaline reagent, to remove residual oil stain on spun silk green compact fabric, alkaline reagent does not affect the quality of green compact fabric, and alkaline reagent environment protection health, in environmentally friendly.
Compared with prior art, tool of the present invention has the following advantages and beneficial effect:
1, in being spun to an operation, twist technique is adjusted into 700～800T/m, for following process obtains the fabric that bony is strong, lays a solid foundation, and has avoided the too soft shortcoming next to the skin of spun silk knit fabric; When influence of winding tension is too small, spun silk line tension does not reach 18G large circle machine braiding requirement, produce braiding broken hole, and green compact braided fabric refining finished product when follow-up refining produces broken hole, and when influence of winding tension is excessive, the detail portion of spun silk line is easily broken, adopts reasonable influence of winding tension can guarantee the brute force of 120N/2 spun silk line.
2, adopt 120N/2 spun silk strand, on 18G one side circular knitting machine by two-wire inlet wire two-wire braiding lopping obtain weight and horizontal stroke, vertical density is respectively 180～190G/M
2, 52 orders/5cm, 90 orders/5cm green compact braided fabric, have advantages of that fault is few, knot is little and cloth surface evenness is high, and, this braided fabric hygroscopicity is better, the well-pressed Du Gengjia of braided fabric, add at the creel place of circular knitting machine silk thread lubricating arrangement is installed, the spun silk line of being exported by thread eye is through the braiding of lubricated row again, can slow down the elasticity of spun silk material top layer gelatinous layer, the flexibility that increases silk thread, the bending, the torsional deflection that alleviate spun silk, form uniform coil, reduce that silk thread is press-offed and the float of braided fabric cloth cover, favourable to the lifting of follow-up printing quality.
3, inlet wire tension force is optimized, and for example, the too small braiding of tension force can produce dropped stitch, again such as, when overtension weaves, can cause broken hole; Braiding way is after rationally determining, the defeated line length of defeated drum of optimal design and the Proper Match of green compact cloth coiling speed, avoided excessive the produced broken hole phenomenon of green compact cloth coiling speed, and because coiling speed is too small, made green compact cloth occur grin, the silk thread generation broken hole of press-offing.
4, reasonable setting and the selection of refinery practice and formula, make spun silk knitwear fabric after refining avoid grey wound, crease, the appearance of the defect such as cloth cover is scared, be conducive to fabric printing even, meet can printed fabric requirement, this fabric is made such as the stamp spun silk full front of a Chinese gown can reach best outer wearing.
[accompanying drawing explanation]
Fig. 1 is the loop construction schematic diagram that two-wire inlet wire braiding of the present invention forms.
[specific embodiment]
A kind of 200～220g/m
2the production technology of grammes per square metre spun silk knitwear fabric, comprises the following steps successively:
(1) process specification design
Raw material adopts 120N/2 wound packages spun silk strand, and tissue design adopts one side plain weave, for grammes per square metre and the horizontal stroke of stamp fabric, indulge density and be respectively: 200～220G/M
2, 62 orders/5cm, 82 orders/5cm.
(2) spin into cylinder
On doubler twister, carry out doubling twisted filament operation, two spun yarns are merged, add and be twisted strand, and the twist of twisting with the fingers is 700～800T/m, on bobbin winder, carry out winder operation, the weight that influence of winding tension is passed through to control tension piece is in the scope of 18～22g, processing obtains the required wound packages spun silk strand specification of step (1), used for braiding.
(3) knitting process
Adopt 18G one side circular knitting machine to weave, and in the thread eye position of the supporting creel of circular knitting machine, silk thread lubricating arrangement is set, make the wound packages spun silk strand that moves back Jie from creel enter again weaving operation after 22# emulsifiable oil for knitting is lubricated.
22# emulsifiable oil for knitting, the place of production: Germany, brand: WONRKA.
Braiding way is decided to be 42 tunnels, and having the quantity of volume yarn mouth is 42.
Inlet wire lopping mode adopts two-wire inlet wire two-wire braiding lopping, being installed on spun silk bobbin on creel take every two bobbins and draws two spun silk lines and pierce into successively in the thread guide eyelet, yarn mouth of circular knitting machine and weave as one group, in a circular knitting machine, 42 thread guide eyelets are all equipped with two spun silk lines, meanwhile, 42 yarn mouths are all equipped with two spun silk lines.
The green compact braided fabric obtaining after lower machine, broken hole rate is controlled at 0～1/, and weight and horizontal stroke, vertical density are respectively: 180～190G/M
2, 52 orders/5cm, 90 orders/5cm, wherein,
Weaving condition is:
(3.1) inlet wire tension force is 4～5CN,
(3.2) the defeated line length of defeated drum is 16.5cm/50 pin,
(3.3), while weaving way Wei42 road, green compact cloth coiling speed is that 20mm/ turns.
The loop construction that the braiding of two-wire inlet wire obtains as shown in Figure 1.
(4) refining procedure
Green compact braided fabric is carried out arranging after refining, to remove the 22# emulsifiable oil for knitting adhering on spun silk line, and the whiteness that makes this braided fabric meets stamp requirement, this process is followed successively by: just refining, oxygen floats, clean, brighten with normal temperature and clean, just sweetening process condition is: time 20min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, the process conditions that oxygen floats are: time 60min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, during cleaning, first with 80 ℃ of clear water, wash one time, last 15min, with 60 ℃ of clear water, wash one time again, last 15min, the process conditions that brighten are: time 10min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, normal temperature scavenging period is 15min, after refining, obtain the spun silk knitwear fabric (grammes per square metre for stamp, density is respectively 200～220G/M in length and breadth
2, 62 orders/5cm, 82 orders/5cm), broken hole rate is controlled at 0～2/.
Just practicing the prescription quality percentage adopting is: silk scouring agent 1%, soda ash 0.3%, sodium hydrosulfite 0.2%; Oxygen floats adopted prescription quality percentage: flower bulb alkali 2%, hydrogen peroxide 2%; Brighten and adopt by mass percentage brightening agent CF1～1.5%.
The model of silk scouring agent is AR617, by Zhong Fang auxiliary reagent factory, Taixing City, is produced.
Claims (2)
1. a 200～220g/m
2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric, is characterized in that this production technology comprises the following steps successively:
(1) process specification design
Raw material adopts 120N/2 wound packages spun silk strand, and tissue design adopts one side plain weave, for grammes per square metre and the horizontal stroke of stamp fabric, indulge density and be respectively: 200～220G/M
2, 62 orders/5cm, 82 orders/5cm;
(2) spin into cylinder
On doubler twister, carry out doubling twisted filament operation, and the twist of twisting with the fingers is 700～800T/m, on bobbin winder, carry out winder operation, the weight of influence of winding tension by controlling tension piece is in the scope of 18～22g, processing obtains the required wound packages spun silk strand specification of step (1), used for braiding;
(3) knitting process
Adopt 18G one side circular knitting machine to weave, and the thread eye position of creel arranges the silk thread lubricating arrangement that fills 22# emulsifiable oil for knitting in this circular knitting machine, inlet wire lopping mode adopts two-wire inlet wire two-wire braiding lopping, and the green compact braided fabric weight obtaining after lower machine and horizontal stroke, vertical density are respectively: 180～190G/M
2, 52 orders/5cm, 90 orders/5cm, wherein,
Weaving condition: inlet wire tension force is 4～5CN, the defeated line length of defeated drum is 16.5cm/50 pin, braiding way Wei42 road, green compact cloth coiling speed is that 20mm/ turns;
(4) refining procedure
Green compact braided fabric is carried out arranging after refining, this process is followed successively by: just refining, oxygen floats, clean, brighten with normal temperature and clean, just sweetening process condition is: time 20min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, the process conditions that oxygen floats are: time 60min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, during cleaning, first with 80 ℃ of clear water, wash one time, last 15min, with 60 ℃ of clear water, wash one time again, last 15min, the process conditions that brighten are: time 10min, 90～95 ℃ of temperature, bath raio 1: 30～40, normal temperature scavenging period is 15min, after refining, obtain the spun silk knitwear fabric for stamp.
2. production technology according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the described prescription quality percentage adopting of just practicing is: silk scouring agent 1%, soda ash 0.3%, sodium hydrosulfite 0.2%; Oxygen floats adopted prescription quality percentage: flower bulb alkali 2%, hydrogen peroxide 2%; Brighten and adopt by mass percentage brightening agent CF1～1.5%.
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| CN201410403969.3A CN104164740B (en) | 2014-08-12 | 2014-08-12 | 200 ~ 220g/m 2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric |
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| CN201410403969.3A CN104164740B (en) | 2014-08-12 | 2014-08-12 | 200 ~ 220g/m 2the production technology of spun silk knitwear fabric |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN108103646A (en) * | 2018-01-18 | 2018-06-01 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | A kind of production technology of highly dense frivolous two-sided Weft knitting silk fabric |
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| CN1046949A (en) * | 1990-05-03 | 1990-11-14 | 大连市新金县丝绸厂 | Natural silk knitting silk fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN2097844U (en) * | 1991-07-12 | 1992-03-04 | 国营诸暨针织厂 | Spun silk knitting one-face cloth |
| CN1851091A (en) * | 2006-01-27 | 2006-10-25 | 湖州珍贝羊绒制品有限公司 | Machine-washable spun silk knitted fabric, and its production process |
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Patent Citations (3)
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1046949A (en) * | 1990-05-03 | 1990-11-14 | 大连市新金县丝绸厂 | Natural silk knitting silk fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN2097844U (en) * | 1991-07-12 | 1992-03-04 | 国营诸暨针织厂 | Spun silk knitting one-face cloth |
| CN1851091A (en) * | 2006-01-27 | 2006-10-25 | 湖州珍贝羊绒制品有限公司 | Machine-washable spun silk knitted fabric, and its production process |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
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| 张健明: "120Nm/2绢丝新工艺生产实践的探讨", 《江苏纺织》 * |
| 李志民等: "隔条珠球绸针织面料的研制开发", 《现代纺织技术》 * |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN108103646A (en) * | 2018-01-18 | 2018-06-01 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | A kind of production technology of highly dense frivolous two-sided Weft knitting silk fabric |
| CN108103646B (en) * | 2018-01-18 | 2019-07-26 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | A kind of production technology of highly dense frivolous two-sided Weft knitting silk fabric |
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