CN104161697A - Radix Pseudostellariae-based youthful look preserving and skin caring product and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Radix Pseudostellariae-based youthful look preserving and skin caring product and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN104161697A CN104161697A CN201410215747.9A CN201410215747A CN104161697A CN 104161697 A CN104161697 A CN 104161697A CN 201410215747 A CN201410215747 A CN 201410215747A CN 104161697 A CN104161697 A CN 104161697A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a Radix Pseudostellariae-based youthful look preserving and skin caring product and a preparation method thereof. The youthful look preserving and skin caring product comprises a moisture preserving and lip tendering cream, a skin tendering eye mask, an eye cream, an anti-ageing night cream and a skin firming and activating toner. Test finds and verifies that a Radix Pseudostellariae extract has skin moisture preserving, DNA protecting and/or inflammation preventing functions, has no cytotoxicity and is safe to use. The Radix Pseudostellariae extract is used as a main component to prepare the Radix Pseudostellariae-based youthful look preserving and skin caring product. The youthful look preserving and skin caring product can improve the characteristics of skins, and realize water maintenance, elasticity increase and normal function maintenance of the skins.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, relate to particularly a kind of skin care item and preparation method thereof of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component.
Background technology
Radix Pseudostellariae is the dried root of pinkwort Radix Ginseng Pseudostellaria heterophylla (Miq.) Pax ex Pax et Hoffm.Excavate when stem and leaf is most of withered summer, cleans, and removes fibrous root, and put after slightly scalding in boiling water and dry or directly dry, be the Chinese crude drug that possesses good value.Its chemical composition includes trace element, aminoacid, saccharide, glycoside, phospholipid, cyclic peptide, fatty acid, oils, volatile oil, sterols etc." Chinese Pharmacopoeia " records its function for 2010 and cured mainly replenishing QI to invigorate the spleen, promoting the production of body fluid for nourishing the lung under version Radix Pseudostellariae item.Tired for insufficiency of the spleen body, inappetence, weak after being ill, deficiency of both vital energy and Yin, spontaneous perspiration is thirsty, dryness of the lung dry cough.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide Radix Pseudostellariae is the skin care item of preserving youthful looks of main component.
The skin care item of preserving youthful looks of the present invention comprise the tender lip frost of moisturizing, skin care eye mask, eye cream, defying age late frost, skin activating water compacts.
The inventor finds and has verified that Radix Pseudostellariae extract has the function of skin moisture-keeping, DNA protection and/or antiinflammatory through test, and the Radix Pseudostellariae extract no cytotoxicity obtaining, and uses safety.The wettability power of Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body is all slightly excellent than hyaluronic acid under 65% and 85% ambient humidity.Radix Pseudostellariae 95% ethanolic extract has the ability of DNA protection, and is just to show protection effect at 50 μ g/mL.Separately also there is antiinflammatory action.Therefore, set it as main component, making Radix Pseudostellariae is the skin care item of preserving youthful looks of main component.These skin care item of preserving youthful looks have the effect that improves skin skin quality, make skin keep moisture, increase elasticity, maintain the normal function of skin.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body in normal skin skin moisture loss rate assessment under 27 DEG C, 50-55%RH;
Fig. 2 is Radix Pseudostellariae water extract DNA protection assessment result;
Fig. 3 is Radix Pseudostellariae 95% ethanolic extract DNA protection assessment result.
Detailed description of the invention
The preparation of embodiment 1 Radix Pseudostellariae concentrated solution
Radix Pseudostellariae extract extraction process: get by the ratio of Radix Pseudostellariae comminuted powder: water=1:3-5 centrifugalize ginseng body and water body after adding extraction heat.
Radix Pseudostellariae extract centrifugal separation process: (rotating speed of centrifuge is 4000～10000r/min to filtrate by Radix Pseudostellariae extract in high speed centrifugation mode, get upper strata liquid), Radix Pseudostellariae extract is through concentrating under reduced pressure water body, make it to be configured to containing Radix Pseudostellariae nonvolatile component between 10%～30% aqueous solution (percentage by weight), this is Radix Pseudostellariae extract.
The characterization processes of the contained nonvolatile component ratio of Radix Pseudostellariae extract: get 10.0g Radix Pseudostellariae concentrated solution after the concentrated water body of decompression rotation (three repeat), lyophilization 8 hours at-30 DEG C, the content of the non-volatile solid content of weighing.The cubage of the non-volatile solid content of Radix Pseudostellariae is that the non-volatile solid species of Radix Pseudostellariae that weighing goes out weigh X100% divided by 10.0g Radix Pseudostellariae concentrated solution.
The ratio of the contained nonvolatile component of Radix Pseudostellariae extract: the content of the bright fixed non-volatile solid content of the present invention need be between 10-30% (percentage by weight) in Radix Pseudostellariae extract percentage ratio.
The adjustment of the contained nonvolatile component of Radix Pseudostellariae extract: if the content of the non-volatile solid content of Radix Pseudostellariae is lower than 10%, Radix Pseudostellariae extract is detached to part water body in concentrating under reduced pressure mode, till reaching 10-30% to the content of non-volatile solid content; If the content of non-volatile solid content need be between 30% (percentage by weight) higher than Radix Pseudostellariae extract percentage ratio, add pure water according to certain proportion and (can calculate to obtain and need the water yield of adding) in Radix Pseudostellariae clear liquor, make the non-volatile solid content of Radix Pseudostellariae concentrated solution can be between 10-30%.
Radix Pseudostellariae supercritical extract: preparation method is that Radix Pseudostellariae dry product is first done broken pre-treatment, be Powdered, be placed in supercritical extraction head tank, with pure CO2 extraction, extraction tank pressure 300-400bar, 30-70 DEG C of extraction tank Warm degree, gas flow rate 2-4ml/L, nozzle temperature: 40-60 DEG C, continuous extraction 30-60 minute.
Radix Pseudostellariae 95% ethanolic extract: preparation method is: after Radix Pseudostellariae dry product is pulverized, mix immersion than the Radix Pseudostellariae of 5-8 with 95% amount of alcohol with weight ratio 1, soak two days, every day is all taking ultrasonic disruption machine vibration 20-40 minute (power is as 300W), after filtration, residue adds recovery 95% soak with ethanol three days again, soak and mix with 95% amount of alcohol than the Radix Pseudostellariae residue of 5-8 for weight ratio 1, every day is all taking ultrasonic disruption machine vibration 20-40 minute (power is as 200-600W), twice filtrate before and after merging after filtering, after concentrated and lyophilization, the dry thing of filtrate is described Radix Pseudostellariae 95% ethanolic extract.
Embodiment 2
Radix Pseudostellariae, adds after 95% ethanol (3-5 times of water extract volume) precipitation by embodiment 1 water extract that solvent is obtained with water, and the precipitate obtaining is Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body, and it has the effect of moisturizing.With the moisture-retaining capacity of three kinds of different experiments assessment Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides bodies, be respectively that the assessment of hydroscopicity, assessment and the transepidermal water loss rate (Trasepidermal Water Loss, TEWL) of moisturizing rate are measured.
The active force difference of different wetting agents to hydrone, absorbs moisture and keeps the ability of moisture also different, and large strong to water molecules power of active force, absorbs and keep the amount of moisture also larger.Therefore,, according to the difference of wetting agent moisture absorption, performance of keeping humidity, under the prerequisite of Control experiment condition, can evaluate by the method for weighing the moisture-keeping efficacy of wetting agent.
The moisturizing usefulness of mensurationization wetting agent need to be selected under the environment of constant temperature and humidity and carry out, and generally adopts airtight small container, places the saturated aqueous solution of a certain chemical reagent, makes it the relative humidity that keeps certain at the temperature of regulation.
(1) assessment of hydroscopicity
The mensuration of hydroscopicity will be dried to the samples weighing of constant weight, and respectively under identical room temperature, humidity is in 80%, 65%, 44% constant exsiccator, places and claims its quality after 4,8,24,48 hours.Measure under the same conditions three times, average.
Computing formula is as follows: hydroscopicity %=(M0-M)/M0x100%
(M0: sample quality before placing; M: sample quality after placing)
(2) assessment of moisturizing rate
Take the sample of a certain amount of moisture content, be placed in exsiccator and be dried, after 2,4,8,24,48,72 hours, weigh the minimizing of sample quality, calculate the moisturizing rate of sample, through relative analysis, compare the size of different sample moisture retentions.
Computing formula is as follows: moisturizing rate %=Mt/M0x100%
(M0: sample quality before placing; Mt: place sample quality after t hour)
(3) transepidermal water loss rate (Trasepidermal Water Loss, TEWL) is measured
Many research institutions pass through to measure transepidermal water loss rate (Trasepidermal Water Loss in the world at present, TEWL) carry out evaluating skin barrier function, therefore the skin care product research method of this plan will adopt transepidermal water loss rate (TEWL) to measure.
TEWL is the barrier function of reaction horny layer for water, is the important factor of evaluating horny layer state.TEWL by evaluate stratum corneum barrier function reach prediction skin care item by moisture-keeping function the maintenance to epidermal barrier function, reparation and booster action; Also can be applied to the evaluation to skin barrier function under different skin morbid state.
Summary experiment flow:
(a) hand, first to use soap clean, is evenly applied in polysaccharide series product the anteflexion side epidermis of left hand arm after natural drying;
(b) in cold air room, control under approximately 25 DEG C of temperature, humidity approximately 60 ﹪ and measure, remember the temperature and humidity arround Recording at that time simultaneously;
(c) percutaneous moisture loss can relevantly react cuticular water flow speed, with percutaneous moisture content scatter and disappear analyzer (
tM300) probe measurement is recognized and is got 4 points, detects six times according to the time point of difference;
(d) six detecting time points be respectively (1) smear before, (2) smear latter 10 minutes, (3) and smear latter 30 minutes, (4) and smear latter 60 minutes, (5) and smear latter 90 minutes, (6) and smear latter 120 minutes; (detect three and repeat, average)
(e) record arm skin capacitance value, deducts the blank numerical value of each test point by each test point mean values of per period,
Be the measured value (g/m2h) of this this test point of period, also can calculate the ratio of the blank numerical value of each test point mean values of per period and each test point;
(f) measured value and ratio are lower, represent that moisturizer is better to the influence of skin skin barrier function by its moisture-keeping functions.
The hydroscopicity assessment of table 2, Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body
Be presented at ambient humidity 44%, 65%, 85% time by the experimental result of upper table 2, all evaporation dryings gradually of pure water, and Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body and hyaluronic acid show along with the time increases the also increase gradually of its ability that absorbs moisture, and reduce its wettability power along with the reduction of relative humidity in environment.But we can find that the wettability power of Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body is except slightly poor than hyaluronic acid under low-humidity environment (44%), all slightly excellent than hyaluronic acid under 65% and 85% ambient humidity, show that Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body possesses moisture absorption usefulness.
The moisturizing rate assessment of table 3, Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body
The moisture-retaining capacity of being learnt Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body by the result of upper table 3 is close with standard substance hyaluronic acid.
Table 4, Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body are in normal skin skin moisture loss rate assessment under 27 DEG C, 50-55% RH
Unit: g/hm
2
Comparison sheet 4 is known with Fig. 1,5% and 10% Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body aqueous solution all can make the lost ability of skin table water decline, show and have the evapotranspiration that prevents severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen table water, 10% the thick polysaccharide aqueous solution of Radix Pseudostellariae manifests the lost effect of lower skin table water after smearing 90 minutes.
Comprehensive above-mentioned three moisturizings experiment all confirms that Radix Pseudostellariae crude polysaccharides body possesses moisture-retaining capacity.
Embodiment 3 Radix Pseudostellariaes find to have the effect of DNA protection with ethanol for extract that solvent was obtained
Verify with DNA protection test
PUC119DNA plastid is former is a supercoiled structure (S-form); after UV or oxidative damage; whether the superhelix stroke (L-form) that can be opened, therefore have the ability of protection plasmid DNA with ethanol, water for the extract that solvent was obtained by this test assessment Radix Pseudostellariae.Utilize Fenton's reaction to produce free radical and attack DNA, can not rupture if Radix Pseudostellariae has protection DNA with ethanol, water extract, can verify its protection effect through electrophoretic analysis.
Test method is as follows:
(1) quantitative pUC119DNA is got to 2 μ l in 1.5ml centrifuge tube, secondly every pipe adds the 1XPBS of 3 μ l and has been mixed with the testing sample of variable concentrations, finally respectively adds respectively the 0.3%H2O2 of 5 μ l to be measured.
(2) from each centrifuge tube, the sample concentration preparing is taken out respectively and is placed in quartzy slide.
(3) quartzy slide is placed on ultraviolet case, irradiates UV30mJ/cm
2.
(4) irradiated, respectively added respectively the 6X sample-loading buffer of 3 μ l, mix homogeneously, then take out the electrophoresis film having made, respectively different sample concentrations are injected into electrophoresis film to carry out electrophoresis.
(5) after electrophoresis is run through, the taking-up film dislocation that puts on one's gloves has added in the de-ionized water tank of appropriate ethidium bromide, and about 30min dyes.
(6) wait to have dyeed, the taking-up film that puts on one's gloves, with the deposit of taking pictures of electrophoresis film image capture analytical system.
Can judge that according to the result of Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 Radix Pseudostellariae 95% ethanolic extract has the ability of DNA protection, and be just to show protection effect at 50 μ g/mL.
Embodiment 4 Radix Pseudostellariaes find to have the effect of anti-inflammatory with ethanol, water for the extract that solvent was obtained
Detailed description of the invention is verified anti-inflammatory effect to suppress LOX-1 and nitric oxide production generation
(1) assessment of lipoxygenase inhibitor (LOX-1)
LOX-1 is a ferment important in inflammatory response, therefore test to assess by this inflammation ability that suppresses, extract is got the LOX-1 (135 unit) that 1 μ L adds 2 μ L, then using the linoleic acid (linoleic acid) of 1.5 μ L10mM as the substrate inducing reaction, and add the Tris-HCl buffer (pH9.0) of 95.5 μ L.Control group, to wait DMSO of dose as benchmark, after completely evenly mixing, is measured its light absorption value under 234nm.
The assessment of table 5, lipoxygenase inhibitor (LOX-1)
Except Radix Pseudostellariae supercritical extract does not suppress the ability of LOX-1, Radix Pseudostellariae water extract and 95% ethanolic extract all have the usefulness of good inhibition LOX-1.
(1) assessment of removing content of nitric oxide
Nitric oxide in human body very easily metabolism form the stable metabolite of nitrite/nitrate, therefore assess the burst size of NO and the activity of NOS with the concentration of cell culture fluid nitrite/nitrate.The Griess reagent of this experiment use can react with nitrite and produce color reaction, first utilizing sodium nitroprusside (SNP) itself is a kind of nitric oxide donors, under normal physiological conditions, can produce NO, this experimental evaluation utilizes Griess reaction Come to inquire into nitric oxide and removes ability.
Getting 98 μ L sodium nitroprussides (5mM) adds 2 μ L samples to cultivate for 150 minutes at 25 DEG C, add 100 μ L Griess reagent (0.1%naphthylenediamine dihydrochloride, 5% phosphoric acid and 1%sulfanilamine), under 560nm, survey light absorption value.
Table 6, the assessment of removing content of nitric oxide
Three kinds of Radix Pseudostellariae extracts all demonstrate the ability of removing content of nitric oxide, especially the most excellent with the effect of Radix Pseudostellariae water extract.
Embodiment 5 moisturizing profit lip frosts
Product preparation:
Take each material by proportioning
By pigment and titanium dioxide mix and blend, add octyl palmitate, mix homogeneously, for subsequent use;
Brazil wax, formula C are mixed with vitamin E, be heated to 85 DEG C.
Formula D is weighed in beaker, with heating in water bath to 75 DEG C, continues to be stirred to completely and dissolve.
The mixing of materials that step 2,3,4 is obtained stirs, and adds pearl essence mix homogeneously;
Be cooled to 45 DEG C, add essence.Discharging while being reduced to room temperature.
Embodiment 6 skin care eye masks
Modulation step
1, formula A is weighed in beaker, extremely dissolves completely with heating in water bath to 75 DEG C.
2, formula B is weighed in beaker, is stirred to evenly.
3, formula A is slowly poured in formula B, be stirred to after mix homogeneously, be cooled to room temperature.
4, formula C is added in formula A, B, be stirred to mix homogeneously.
7 acid of embodiment
Modulation step:
1, the glycerol of described amount, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, dicaprylyl ether are joined in homogenizing pot successively, be uniformly dispersed, be heated to 78 DEG C, for subsequent use.
2, described water gaging, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sodium, glyceryl stearate Fructus Citri Limoniae ester, PAROSOL 1789, carbomer sodium salt, phenoxyethanol, DMDM Hydantoin, EDETATE SODIUM, ubiquinone are added in homogenizing pot successively; stirring and dissolving, is uniformly dispersed.
The mixture that adds step 2 in the time that the mixture of step 1 is cooled to 70 DEG C, homogenizing stirs.Be cooled to 37 DEG C.
Embodiment 8 acid sooner or later
Modulation step: oil phase and water are heated respectively to mixing, then under stirring by biphase mixing, average emulsifying, adds essence 40 DEG C time, is uniformly dispersed, and makes and can form lipophilic film at skin surface, keeps moistening and senior morning of the late frost of skin nutrition.
Embodiment 9 skin activating waters
By wetting agent propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and Polyethylene Glycol (400) are soluble in water, separately cleaning agent polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene block copolymer and solubilizing agent polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan mono-laurate, essence, antiseptic are dissolved in ethanol, alcohol phase solution is added in aqueous phase solution, mix solubilising, until dissolving completely after mixing, add appropriate pigment, after filtration and get final product.
Claims (10)
1. the skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks comprise early late frost or the skin activating water that compacts of the tender lip frost of moisturizing, skin care eye mask, eye cream, defying age, it is characterized in that, by weight, in these skin care item of preserving youthful looks, comprise 3-6% Radix Pseudostellariae extract.
2. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks are the tender lip frost of moisturizing, by weight, comprising:
3. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 2, its preparation method comprises the steps:
1) take each material by proportioning;
2) by pigment and titanium dioxide mix and blend, add octyl palmitate, mix homogeneously, for subsequent use;
3) Brazil wax, formula C are mixed with vitamin E, be heated to 85 DEG C;
4) formula D is weighed in beaker, with heating in water bath to 75 DEG C, continues to be stirred to completely and dissolve;
5) by step 2), 3), 4) mixing of materials that obtains stirs, and adds pearl essence mix homogeneously;
6) be cooled to 45 DEG C, add essence, discharging while being reduced to room temperature.
4. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks are skin care eye mask, by weight, comprising:
5. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 4, its preparation method comprises the steps:
1), formula A is weighed in beaker, with heating in water bath to 75 DEG C dissolving extremely completely;
2), formula B is weighed in beaker, be stirred to evenly;
3), by formula A slowly pour into formula B in, be stirred to after mix homogeneously, be cooled to room temperature;
4), by formula C add formula A, B in, be stirred to mix homogeneously.
6. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks are the acid of skin care eye mask eye, by weight, comprising:
7. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 6, its preparation method comprises the steps:
1) glycerol of described amount, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, dicaprylyl ether are joined in homogenizing pot successively, be uniformly dispersed, be heated to 78 DEG C, for subsequent use;
2) described water gaging, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sodium, glyceryl stearate Fructus Citri Limoniae ester, PAROSOL 1789, carbomer sodium salt, phenoxyethanol, DMDM Hydantoin, EDETATE SODIUM, ubiquinone are added in homogenizing pot successively, stirring and dissolving, is uniformly dispersed;
3) until step 1) mixture add the mixture of step 2 while being cooled to 70 DEG C, homogenizing stirs.Be cooled to 37 DEG C.
8. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks, for acid sooner or later, by weight, comprising:
9. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 8, its preparation method comprises the steps: oil phase and water to heat respectively mixing, then in stir under by biphase mixing, average emulsifying, 40 DEG C time, add essence, be uniformly dispersed, make.
10. a kind of skin care item of preserving youthful looks taking Radix Pseudostellariae as main component as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that, these skin care item of preserving youthful looks are skin activating water, by weight, comprising:
Its preparation method comprises the steps:
By wetting agent propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and Polyethylene Glycol (400) are soluble in water, separately cleaning agent polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene block copolymer and solubilizing agent polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan mono-laurate, essence, antiseptic are dissolved in ethanol, alcohol phase solution is added in aqueous phase solution, mix solubilising, until dissolving completely after mixing, add appropriate pigment, after filtration and get final product.
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