CN103976916B - Berberis julianae schneid extracting solution and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Berberis julianae schneid extracting solution and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN103976916B
CN103976916B CN201410239123.0A CN201410239123A CN103976916B CN 103976916 B CN103976916 B CN 103976916B CN 201410239123 A CN201410239123 A CN 201410239123A CN 103976916 B CN103976916 B CN 103976916B
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barberry
extracting solution
extract solution
extract
skin
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CN103976916A (en
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赵海明
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Xi'an best Biotechnology Co., Ltd
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Guangzhou Yi Daily Necessities Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a berberis julianae schneid extracting solution and a preparation method and application thereof. The berberis julianae schneid extracting solution prepared by means of water extraction has the remarkable effects of resisting bacteria, diminishing inflammation, regulating internal secretion, promoting skin cell metabolism and improving local blood circulation. With the characteristic, the berberis julianae schneid extracting solution has the effects of repairing injured cells, restraining sebum secretion, dredging facial hair follicle and sebaceous gland holes and protecting keratoderma. By applying the berberis julianae schneid extracting solution to cosmetics, the effects of remarkably repairing and protecting sensitive and acne skin are achieved.

Description

A kind of barberry extract solution and its preparation method and application
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, more particularly to a kind of barberry extract solution and preparation method thereof and should With.
Background technology
With the improvement of people ' s living standards, cosmetics have become necessary article in people's life.But Quality requirement of the people but for cosmetics is very high, not only requires that effect is good, and requires to make without secondary With.With the development of cosmetics industry, natural plant kind product due to using safety, action temperature and, The advantages of effect is obvious and welcome.The plant containing active ingredient is obtained generally by corresponding processing to carry Thing is taken, and is added in cosmetics.
Plant extracts in current cosmetics, is mostly carried using water extraction, alcohol extracting, ultrasonic wave extraction, microwave The method such as take and extract gained, extraction process is complicated, by operations such as concentrate dryings, also to add preservative with Make the shelf-life of extract more permanent.The drawbacks of so bringing, one is waste of resource, in extraction process, Solution is concentrated, and typically only takes concentration fraction elite out, and most solutions are then thrown away.In fact this Part solution still be able to can also be reused containing active component, and directly thrown away and resulted in resource Waste.Another drawback is that addition preservative can no doubt make extract acquisition longer in extract Shelf-life, but simultaneously also for skin tape carrys out sensitization source.
In addition, acne are a big skin problems of puzzle.Acne are a kind of common hair follicle sebums Gland inflammatory dermatoses, are mainly in facial area.Because this disease is apt to occur in youth of both sexes, especially Oily Person, the occurrence factor of acne is varied, but most direct factor is exactly skin sensitivity, clogging of pores.Hair Hole is obstructed, and the grease of the inside cannot just be secreted, and add now skin sensitivity, cell damage and make skin The immunity degradation of skin, barrier function is excessively weak, it is difficult to repair skin problem using effective skin care item, Grease is cumulative, and skin problem is increasingly severe, just forms acne one by one.
Therefore, which kind of plant is selected, how simply, safely, effectively the plant extract is carried out, and will Sensitive, acne and sore skin is protected in being applied to for its safety in cosmetics, is problem demanding prompt solution.
The content of the invention
Based on this, present invention aim at a kind of barberry extract solution of offer and its preparation method and application.
The concrete technical scheme for solving above-mentioned technical problem is as follows:
A kind of preparation method of barberry extract solution, comprises the following steps:
By barberry drying and crushing, installed with the 800-1000 mesh gauze bags for sterilizing, be placed in vacuum homogenized milk Change in pot, by the weight of barberry, add the 8-12 times of deionized water measured, extracted in 90-100 DEG C, you can Barberry extract solution is obtained.
Wherein in some embodiments, the time of the extraction is 20-50min.
Wherein in some embodiments, by barberry drying and crushing, with the 800-1000 mesh gauze bags for sterilizing Install, be placed in vacuum emulsifying pot, after the completion of extraction, directly take out gauze bag, remaining solution As barberry extract solution.Due to using vacuum emulsifying pot in the method, its can after the completion of extraction, Directly other cosmetics are added, Cosmetic Manufacture is carried out, without with special plant extract Equipment is extracted, and has saved cost;In addition, using the packed barberry powder of gauze, directly by gauze after having extracted Bag takes out, and without filtering, simplifies extraction process, improves efficiency.
The above method is simple to operation, and Radix Berberidis extract can show use of withdrawing deposit, and is not required to add preservative, significantly Reduce the sensitization source to skin.In cosmetic formulations, preservative is inherently added with, by extract of the present invention Now carry and adding, it is to avoid because of placement produce spoilage problems.
Barberry extract solution obtained by the above method is being prepared with reparation and protection sensitivity, acne and sore skin Application in the cosmetics of skin effect.
Wherein in some embodiments, the content of barberry extract solution is 58-95wt% in the cosmetics.
Wherein in some embodiments, the cosmetics are nourishing cream, essence or mask.
The present invention provides a kind of nourishing cream, and the nourishing cream includes the component of following weight percentage:
Emulsifying agent:3.5-6.3wt%,
Emollient:5-10wt%,
Antioxidant:0.2-0.8wt%,
NMF:5-15wt%,
Thickener:0.05-0.15wt%,
Preservative:0.3-0.7wt%,
Barberry extract solution obtained in above-mentioned preparation method:Surplus,
The emulsifying agent is cetostearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, cetostearyl alcohol, stearine / PEG-100 stearates, polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffins/laureth -7 or methyl At least one in sesquistearate;
The emollient be ring five dimethyl silicone polymer/cyclohexasiloxane, dimethyl silicone polymer, octanoic acid/ At least one in Triglyceride DDD or hydrogenated jojoba oil;
The antioxidant is tocopherol or at least one being confused in the extract that changes;
The NMF is at least in propane diols, glycerine, Sodium Hyaluronate, FOS or sorbierite Kind;
The thickener is at least one in xanthans or sodium carboxymethylcellulose;
The preservative is Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50.
Wherein in some embodiments, the nourishing cream includes the component of following weight percentage:
Emulsifying agent:4.9-6.3wt%,
Emollient:6.4-7.6wt%,
Antioxidant:0.4-0.6wt%,
NMF:8-12.15wt%,
Thickener:0.09-0.11wt%,
Preservative:0.4-0.6wt%,
Barberry extract solution obtained in above-mentioned preparation method:Surplus,
The emulsifying agent is cetostearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, cetostearyl alcohol, stearine In/PEG-100 stearates or polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffins/laureth -7 at least one Kind;
The emollient be ring five dimethyl silicone polymer/cyclohexasiloxane, dimethyl silicone polymer or octanoic acid/ At least one in Triglyceride DDD;
The antioxidant is tocopherol;
The NMF is at least one in propane diols, glycerine, Sodium Hyaluronate or FOS;
The thickener is xanthans;
The preservative is Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50.
Wherein in some embodiments, the nourishing cream includes the component of following weight percentage:
Cetostearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside:2.3-2.7wt%,
Cetostearyl alcohol:1-1.4wt%,
Stearine/PEG-100 stearates:1-1.4wt%,
Ring five dimethyl silicone polymer/cyclohexasiloxane:1.8-2.2wt%,
Dimethyl silicone polymer:1.8-2.2wt%,
Caprylic/capric triglyceride:2.8-3.2wt%,
Tocopherol:0.4-0.6wt%,
Propane diols:4-6wt%,
Glycerine:4-6wt%,
Xanthans:0.09-0.11wt%,
Sodium Hyaluronate:0.015-0.025wt%,
Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffins/laureth -7:0.6-0.8wt%,
Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50:0.4-0.6wt%,
FOS:0.08-0.11wt%,
Above-mentioned barberry extract solution:Surplus.
The present invention also provides a kind of essence, and the essence includes the component of following weight percentage:
Chelating agent:0.01-0.1wt%,
NMF:5-18wt%,
Antiinflammatory:0.05-2.5wt%,
Preservative:0.3-0.66wt%,
Radix Berberidis extract obtained in above-mentioned preparation method:Surplus;
The chelating agent is at least one in EDTA- disodiums or Etidronic Acid;
The NMF is glycerine, propane diols, Fructus Hordei Germinatus oligose base glucosides/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, Curacao reed At least one in luxuriant growth leaf extract or PEG400;
The antiinflammatory is in allantoin, hamamelis extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate or pot marigold extract At least one;
The preservative is Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50.
Wherein in some embodiments, the essence includes the component of following weight percentage:
Chelating agent:0.01-0.025wt%,
NMF:10-15.5wt%,
Antiinflammatory:1.9-2.4wt%,
Preservative:0.54-0.66wt%,
Radix Berberidis extract obtained in above-mentioned preparation method:Surplus;
The chelating agent is EDTA- disodiums;
The NMF is glycerine, propane diols, Fructus Hordei Germinatus oligose base glucosides/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate or Curacao reed At least one in luxuriant growth leaf extract;
The antiinflammatory is at least one in allantoin, hamamelis extract or dipotassium glycyrrhizinate;
The preservative is in Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50.
Wherein in some embodiments, the essence includes the component of following weight percentage:
EDTA- disodiums:0.018-0.022wt%,
Glycerine:4-6wt%,
Propane diols:4-6wt%,
Allantoin:0.09-0.11wt%,
Methyl hydroxybenzoate:0.09-0.11wt%,
Hamamelis extract:1.8-2.2wt%,
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate:0.045-0.055wt%,
Fructus Hordei Germinatus oligose base glucosides/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate:0.9-1.1wt%,
Aloe barbadensis Miller leaf extract:1.8-2.2wt%,
Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50:0.45-0.55,
Above-mentioned barberry extract solution:Surplus.
The present invention also provides a kind of mask, and the mask includes the component of following weight percentage:
NMF:5-35wt%,
Thickener:0.05-0.3wt%,
Antiinflammatory:2.5-5.5wt%,
PH adjusting agent:0.04-0.08wt%,
Preservative:0.2-0.6wt%,
Above-mentioned Radix Berberidis extract:Surplus;
The NMF be glycerine, butanediol, propane diols, Sodium Hyaluronate, glycerine polymethacrylates/ At least one in propane diols, Ovshinsky marine algae extract, beta glucan or FOS;
The thickener is at least one in hydroxyethyl cellulose, Carbomer or xanthans;
The antiinflammatory is at least one in allantoin, hamamelis extract or bisabolol;
The pH adjusting agent is at least one in triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide or NaOH;
The preservative is at least in 1,2- hexylene glycols/pungent glycol or Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50 Kind.
Wherein in some embodiments, the mask includes the component of following weight percentage:
NMF:21.5-32.3wt%,
Thickener:0.14-0.26wt%,
Antiinflammatory:3.1-5.5wt%,
PH adjusting agent:0.05-0.07wt%,
Preservative:0.4-0.6wt%,
Above-mentioned Radix Berberidis extract:Surplus;
The NMF be glycerine, butanediol, propane diols, Sodium Hyaluronate, glycerine polymethacrylates/ At least one in propane diols, Ovshinsky marine algae extract or beta glucan;
The thickener is at least one in hydroxyethyl cellulose or Carbomer;
The antiinflammatory is at least one in allantoin or hamamelis extract;
The pH adjusting agent is at least one in potassium hydroxide or NaOH;
The preservative is 1,2- hexylene glycols/pungent glycol.
Wherein in some embodiments, the mask includes the component of following weight percentage:
Glycerine:4-6wt%,
Butanediol:4-6wt%,
Propane diols:2-4wt%,
Hydroxyethyl cellulose:0.04-0.06wt%,
Sodium Hyaluronate:0.025-0.035wt%,
Carbomer:0.1-0.2wt%,
Allantoin:0.1-0.2wt%,
Beta glucan:0.8-1.2wt%,
Glycerine polymethacrylates/propane diols:7-9wt%,
Ovshinsky marine algae extract:4-6wt%,
Hamamelis extract:3-5wt%,
Potassium hydroxide:0.05-0.07wt%,
1,2- hexylene glycols/pungent glycol:0.4-0.6wt%,
Above-mentioned barberry extract solution:Surplus.
A kind of barberry extract solution of the present invention and its preparation method and application has advantages below and beneficial effect Really:
The present invention is drawn in optimum process through the substantial amounts of experiment of inventor and research --- it is obtained under water extraction Barberry extract solution, it has significant inhibiting bacteria and diminishing inflammation, regulation endocrine, promotes skin cell metabolism And improve the effect of local blood circulation, this characteristic causes that barberry extract solution possesses reparation damaged cell, Suppress sebum secretion, the effect of dredging facial follicles, sebum glandular orifice and protection keratoderma is answered For having functions that significant reparation and protection sensitivity, acne and sore skin in cosmetics.
Specific embodiment
Barberry of the present invention is the root skin or stem that Berberidaceae plant pierces black pearl, berberis brachypoda Maxim, black stone pearl etc. Skin, cold in nature, slight bitter is nontoxic, with heat-clearing;Eliminating dampness;The effect of purging intense heat and detonicating.《Traditional Chinese Medicine in Sichuan will》:" It is clearing heat and detoxicating, antiphlogistic antibacterial.Control hot eyes, dysentery characterized by blood in the stool, haematemesis internal lesion caused by overexertion, abscess of throat, diarrhoea, dentalgia, ear Pained, traumatic injury is red and swollen.", barberry is obtained barberry extract solution by the present invention through water extraction, is used it for Prepare with reparation and protection sensitivity, acne and sore cosmetics for skin.
Below with reference to specific embodiment, the present invention will be further described.
In following embodiments, the hamamelis extract purchased from Xi'an Sen Ran bioengineering Co., Ltd, Aloe barbadensis Miller leaf extract is purchased from Tianfeng Biological Science & Technology Co., Ltd., Xi'an, Ovshinsky marine algae extract purchased from west An Ruiying bio tech ltd, the equal commercially available prod of other raw materials.
Used Components Name is international cosmetic raw material name (International in following examples Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient, INCI) defined title, such as Phenoxyethanol/second Base hexyl glycerine, ring five dimethyl silicone polymer/cyclohexasiloxane, stearine/PEG-100 are stearic Acid esters, cetostearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/laureth -7, Fructus Hordei Germinatus oligose base glucosides/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, glycerine polymethyl Acid esters/propane diols, 1,2- hexylene glycols/pungent glycol.
The nourishing cream of embodiment 1
Containing barberry extract solution in nourishing cream described in the present embodiment, the preparation method of the barberry extract solution, Comprise the following steps:1 kilogram of barberry is cleaned, is dried, drying and crushing to 100 mesh, with what is sterilized 1000 mesh gauze bags are installed, and are placed in vacuum emulsifying pot, 12 kilograms of deionized water are added, in 100 DEG C Extraction 50min, gauze bag is taken out, and remaining solution obtains final product barberry extract solution.
The component and content of the nourishing cream are shown in Table 1:
The component and content of the nourishing cream of table 1
The essence of embodiment 2
Containing barberry extract solution in essence described in the present embodiment, the preparation method of the barberry extract solution, With reference to embodiment 1.
The component and content of the essence are shown in Table 2:
The component and content of the essence of table 2
The mask of embodiment 3
Containing barberry extract solution in mask described in the present embodiment, the preparation method of the barberry extract solution, With reference to embodiment 1.
The component and content of the mask are shown in Table 3:
The component and content of the mask of table 3
The nourishing cream of comparative example 1
The component and content of the nourishing cream are shown in Table 4:
The component and content of the nourishing cream of table 4
The essence of comparative example 2
The component and content of the essence are shown in Table 5:
The component and content of the essence of table 5
Composition Percentage by weight (wt%)
Deionized water Surplus
EDTA- disodiums 0.02
Glycerine 5
Butanediol 5
Allantoin 0.1
Methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.1
Hamamelis extract 2
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.05
Fructus Hordei Germinatus oligose base glucosides/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate 1
Aloe barbadensis Miller leaf extract 2
Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50 0.5
It is total 100
The mask of comparative example 3
The component and content of the mask are shown in Table 6:
The component and content of the mask of table 6
The efficacy assessments of embodiment 4
First, experiment purpose
Reparation and protection sensitivity, powder by cosmetics obtained in comparative analysis evaluation the various embodiments described above Pierce the effect of dark sore skin.
2nd, experimental technique
This experiment is divided into experimental group and control group, wherein, experimental group is divided into:Embodiment 1- nourishing cream, implementation Example 2- essences, embodiment 3- facial masks;Control group be comparative example 1- nourishing cream, comparative example 2- essences, It is comparative example 3- facial masks, a certain commercially available with repairing and protection is sensitive, acne and sore skin essence.
Collection is sensitive, 200 volunteers of acne and sore skin tried out above-mentioned each product after 28 days, observes result. Wherein, the people of women 120, the people of male 80, max age 30 years old, minimal ages 15 years old, average age 22 Year.
Sensitive, the acne and sore skin shows as:Facial redness, acne and sore, acne print, skin are done Dry, pore is thick or skin oil and fat is secreted.
3rd, experimental result
Result is referring to table 7.
The efficacy outcomes table of the experimental group of table 7 and control group
As known from Table 7:Each product of control group is comparative example 1- nourishing cream, comparative example 2- essences, comparative example 3- facial masks, a certain commercially available essence and each product embodiments 1- nourishing cream of experimental group, embodiment 2- essences, Embodiment 3- facial masks are thick to facial redness, acne and sore, acne print, dry skin, pore or skin oil and fat Secretion has different degrees of improvement, from experimental data as can be seen that in experimental group each product to it is facial red and swollen, Acne and sore, acne print, dry skin, pore be thick or the improvement degree of skin oil and fat secretion is substantially than control The improvement degree of each product is high in group, it follows that the cosmetics containing barberry extract solution have significantly Reparation and protection is sensitive, effect of acne and sore skin.
Embodiment described above only expresses several embodiments of the invention, and its description is more specific and detailed, But therefore can not be interpreted as the limitation to the scope of the claims of the present invention.It should be pointed out that for this area Those of ordinary skill for, without departing from the inventive concept of the premise, can also make it is some deformation and Improve, these belong to protection scope of the present invention.Therefore, the protection domain of patent of the present invention should be with appended Claim is defined.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of nourishing cream, it is characterised in that the nourishing cream includes the component of following weight percentage:Breast Agent:3.5-6.3wt%, emollient:5-10wt%, antioxidant:0.2-0.8wt%, NMF:5-15wt%, increases Thick dose:0.05-0.15wt%, preservative:0.3-0.7wt%, barberry extract solution surplus;
The emulsifying agent is cetostearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, cetostearyl alcohol, stearine / PEG-100 stearates, polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffins/laureth -7 or methyl times At least one in semi-solid fat acid esters;The emollient is ring five dimethyl silicone polymer/cyclohexasiloxane, gathers At least one in dimethyl siloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride or hydrogenated jojoba oil;It is described anti-oxidant Agent is tocopherol;The NMF is in propane diols, glycerine, Sodium Hyaluronate, FOS or sorbierite At least one;The thickener is at least one in xanthans or sodium carboxymethylcellulose;It is described anti- Rotten agent is Phenoxyethanol/Sensiva SC50;
The barberry extract solution is prepared using following methods:By barberry drying and crushing, with what is sterilized 800-1000 mesh gauze bags are installed, and are placed in vacuum emulsifying pot, by the weight of barberry, add 8-12 The deionized water of amount, extracts in 90-100 DEG C again, you can barberry extract solution is obtained.
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