CN103830113B - A kind of astaxanthin lip pomade and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

A kind of astaxanthin lip pomade and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN103830113B
CN103830113B CN201410045808.1A CN201410045808A CN103830113B CN 103830113 B CN103830113 B CN 103830113B CN 201410045808 A CN201410045808 A CN 201410045808A CN 103830113 B CN103830113 B CN 103830113B
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astaxanthin
mixed liquor
wax
oil
lip
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CN103830113A (en
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周庆新
杨澍
薛长湖
徐杰
王静凤
常耀光
唐庆娟
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Ocean University of China
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of astaxanthin lip pomade and preparation method thereof.A kind of astaxanthin lip pomade manufacture method, specifically comprises the preparation of esterification of astaxanthin, prepares astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor, prepares astaxanthin base oil wax mixed liquor, and adds the auxiliaries such as vitamin E, Mel and form; Astaxanthin after esterification all improves in stability, absorption rate and water proofing property, has excellent antioxidant activity and anti-inflammatory efficacy, has crease-resistant, sun-proof, antiinflammatory, the function such as painted concurrently; A kind of astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention has waterproof, and sun-proof, crease-resistant, the effects such as color fixative, have health care to human body in addition, can reduce the incidence rate of cheilitis, the generation of prevention plateau cheilitis.

Description

A kind of astaxanthin lip pomade and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetics with health-care effect and preparation method thereof, be specifically related to a kind of lip pomade being rich in astaxanthin and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
The endurance that lip Antagonistic Environment is invaded and harassed be the most weak in whole health skin, the most easily " aging ", its organizational structure layer is very thin, only has 1/3 of body skin thick.Because itself does not have pore, do not have sebaceous gland, so responsive especially to environment such as dry and low temperature, the weather that especially autumn and winter are dry and cold, often makes Mucosa of lip damage serious, easily brings out cheilitis.The simultaneously pigmentation that causes of daily ultraviolet radiation, the problem such as sunburn and " photoaging ", the very easily lips of damaging delicate, make the incidence rate of cheilitis greatly improve.On the other hand, along with improving constantly of people's quality of life, the requirement of people to lip pomade is not only to moisten lip, also will reach color fixative, other the effect such as sun-proof.Therefore develop a kind of lip pomade having moist color fixative, defying age and anti-inflammatory health effect concurrently, have great importance and very considerable market prospect.
Astaxanthin, as a kind of natural function coloring agent, is that the mankind find the antioxidant that nature is the strongest up to now.Doubly, then stronger more than 100 times than vitamin E, non-oxidizability is ascorbic more than 6000 times to the energy force rate beta-carotene high more than 10 of its singlet-oxygen quenching and seizure free radical.Due to the antioxidant activity that it is natural, it effectively can prevent the photoaging of skin, reduce UVA and UVB to the injury of skin, delaying cell aging, minimizing melanin deposition, enhancing human body immunity power; Astaxanthin has outstanding anti-inflammatory activity simultaneously, all has good treatment and preventive effect for the inflammation comprising cheilitis.In addition, the distinctive color and luster of astaxanthin can allow the more aobvious elasticity of lips, tension force and moist sense.But due to the astaxanthin poor stability of free state, very easily there is oxidation decoloration in its natural state, therefore limit its application in the product, the esterification of astaxanthin that the present invention exists using occurring in nature and/or the esterification of astaxanthin prepared by chemosynthesis are as raw material, use it in the making of lip pomade, astaxanthin after esterification not only stability improves, specific ionization astaxanthin is easily absorbed (SHOWALTERLA by body tissue simultaneously, OSTERLIEM.Plasmaappearanceandtissueaccumulationofnon-est erified, freeastaxanthininC57BL/6miceafteroraldosingofadisodiumdi succinatediesterofastaxanthin (HeptaxTM) [J] .CompBiochemPhysC, 2004, 137:227-236), the better physiologically active playing astaxanthin.When improving astaxanthin stability, the natural anti-oxidation function of astaxanthin and anti-inflammatory activity are applied to lip treatment, thus reach better color fixative, sun-proof and antidotal object, more can effectively prevent and reduce the generation of cheilitis simultaneously.
Along with the development of lip pomade production industry, for having concurrently, the lip pomade demand of moistening with health-care effect is further strong.Application publication number is patent of invention " a kind of manufacture method of the honey lip balm " (applying date: 2010/04/07) of CN101690709A, adopt Mel, Aloe, vaseline to be the lip gloss that primary raw material makes, effectively can solve the problem of lip pomade waterproof, sun-proof and color fixative, but likely cannot evade mineral wax to the stimulation of lip skin and toxicity problem.Application publication number is patent of invention " a kind of konjac glucomannan lip protector and preparation method thereof the " (applying date: 2011/05/28) of CN102198056A, Rhizoma amorphophalli glucomannan, Cera Flava, lanoline is adopted to be primary raw material, be equipped with vitamin E, food coloring and essence, there is the advantages such as waterproof, sun-proof, color fixative, have certain health-care effect concurrently, but effect may be less in the prevention and alleviation of cheilitis in this invention.And application publication number is that (applying date: 1995/03/18), containing wax, oils and fats, pigment, spice, with the alkannin of 0.01 ~ 2% for the patent of invention " alkannin bacteriostatic lipstick " of CN1116923.This product color is stable, nature, little to the side effect of human body, can antibacterial, antiinflammatory, antiviral, and have certain therapeutical effect to the inflammation of lip.But this lip pomade is to moistening with persistent less demanding, and have some limitations in sun-proof, the anti-water problem of solution lip pomade.
Summary of the invention
The object of this invention is to provide one can not only moisturizing, color fixative, sun-proof, waterproof, and human body is had to the astaxanthin lip pomade of certain health care functions.First, astaxanthin, as a kind of natural pigment, can provide honorable color and luster, makes the more aobvious elasticity of lips, tension force and moist sense; Secondly, astaxanthin has natural strong anti-oxidative activity, effectively can prevent the photoaging of skin, reduce UVA and UVB to the injury of skin, delaying skin aging, minimizing melanin deposition, play the function of its sun-proof U.S. flesh; And the anti-inflammatory activity that astaxanthin itself has, can effectively prevent and alleviate cheilitis.
Astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention, prepares as raw material by esterification of astaxanthin.
Wherein esterification of astaxanthin is with one or more in Haematocoocus Pluvialls, shrimp, Eriocheir sinensis for raw material, to extract with solvent extraction method or supercritical fluid extraction.
Esterification of astaxanthin can also be with free state astaxanthin for raw material, prepare through esterification.
Astaxanthin lip pomade manufacture method of the present invention, its a kind of operating procedure is as follows:
1) oily wax mixed liquor is prepared: after base oil and wax in mass ratio 1 ~ 10:1 mixing, under 80 ~ 90 DEG C of conditions, heating and melting makes clear transparent solutions;
2) prepare astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor: the ratio of esterification of astaxanthin in mass fraction 0.1 ~ 10% added in the middle of base oil, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve form astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor completely;
3) prepare astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor: oily wax mixed liquor prepared by step 1) after room temperature cooling 2 ~ 5min, with step 2) the astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor prepared by volume 1 ~ 20:1 mix, formation astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor;
4) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step 3), add vitamin E successively, Mel and fruit essence, addition mass fraction is respectively 0.5 ~ 3%, 0.1 ~ 3% and 0 ~ 1%, fully mix;
5) fill, molding: step 4) is added the mixed liquor after adjuvant and be placed in vacuum drying oven, at 65 DEG C, the de-bubbled that reduces pressure under 210Pa condition 5 ~ 60min, then takes out fill, is placed in 0 ~ 4 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 0.5 ~ 24h.
Base oil used is the mixture of one or more in olive oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Oleum Cocois, Semen pruni armeniacae oil and shea butter;
Wax used is Cera Flava, candelilla wax, the mixture of one or more born in ground lira wax and lanoline.
In preparation process, in step 4), be also added with a kind of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant, its chemical general formula is:
Wherein, Sugar is any one or several in glucose, fructose, galactose, lactose or gentiobiose.
The 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant good water solubility of adding, and the color of lip pomade can be increased, better embody U.S. lip effect.
It is primary raw material that the present invention selects through the astaxanthin of esterification, base oil and waxiness, with vitamin E and Mel for adjuvant, not containing harmful composition, can not produce harm, be suitable for crowd extensive to human body.The natural anti-oxidation of astaxanthin and anti-inflammatory activity are applied to lip treatment by the present invention, not only play the effect of nourishing and moisturizing color fixative, and prevent the damage of ultraviolet and poor environment, play the effect of sun-proof U.S. flesh; Can effectively prevent and reduce the generation of cheilitis simultaneously, there is certain health care.Astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention is easy to use, and its manufacturing process is simple, safety, operability are high, in the development promoting health care lip pomade, have positive meaning.
Detailed description of the invention
The present invention selects the astaxanthin after esterification, namely remains the biological activity of free astaxanthin, overcomes again the drawback of free state astaxanthin poor stability.And the astaxanthin that the astaxanthin after esterification comparatively dissociates more easily is absorbed by tissue utilization; After esterification simultaneously, astaxanthin hydrophobicity strengthens, and makes the moisturizing water proofing property of the astaxanthin lip pomade obtained better.
In order to fully disclose astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention and preparation method thereof, be illustrated below in conjunction with embodiment.
Embodiment 1
A kind of manufacture method of astaxanthin lip pomade, comprise the following steps: the preparation of (1) esterification of astaxanthin: the biological raw material using Haematocoocus Pluvialls as preparation esterification of astaxanthin, take a certain amount of haematococcus pluvialis powder, add the ethanol of 3 times ~ 20 times raw materials quality (W/V), repeatedly lixiviate 1 time ~ 3 times, each lixiviate 0.1h ~ 12h, merge lixiviating solution, then lixiviating solution is through concentrating under reduced pressure, removes solvent, more purifiedly prepares esterification of astaxanthin; (2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by olive oil and Cera Flava in mass ratio 4:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 80 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) prepare astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid: esterification of astaxanthin prepared by step (1) added in the middle of olive oil in the ratio of mass fraction 2%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 2min, the astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 8:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel and apple essence, addition (mass fraction) is respectively 0.5%, 1% and 0.1%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 20min, then takes out fill, is placed in 4 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 1h.
Embodiment 2
A kind of manufacture method of astaxanthin lip pomade, comprise the following steps: the preparation of (1) esterification of astaxanthin: take Antarctic krill as raw material lixiviate, take a certain amount of euphausia superba powder, add the ethyl acetate of 3 times ~ 20 times raw materials quality (W/V), repeatedly lixiviate 1 time ~ 3 times, each lixiviate 0.1h ~ 12h, merge lixiviating solution, then lixiviating solution is through concentrating under reduced pressure, removes solvent, more purifiedly prepares esterification of astaxanthin; (2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by Oleum Cocois and may ground lira wax in mass ratio 8:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 85 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) prepare astaxanthin Oleum Cocois mixed liquor: esterification of astaxanthin prepared by step (1) added in the middle of Oleum Cocois in the ratio of mass fraction 0.5%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin Oleum Cocois mixed liquor; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 5min, the astaxanthin Oleum Cocois mixed liquor prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 3:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel and Fructus Citri Limoniae essence, addition (mass fraction) is respectively 3%, 2% and 0.5%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 60min, then takes out fill, is placed in 0 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 20min.
Embodiment 3
A kind of manufacture method of Fructus Mangifera Indicae taste astaxanthin lip pomade, comprise the following steps: the preparation of (1) esterification of astaxanthin: take haematococcus pluvialis powder 100g, in the extraction kettle in 1L supercritical extraction unit, the temperature of extraction kettle is set as 40 DEG C, pressure setting is 30MPa, extractant CO 2flow set be 20L/h, the temperature and pressure of separation reactor I is respectively 35 DEG C and 10MPa, and the temperature of separation reactor I I is 40 DEG C, CO 2the flow velocity of fluid is 20L/h ~ 40L/h, and continuous dynamic extraction time is 3h, and extract is released aperiodically from separating still, and collect and be stored in container, extract is bolarious sticky mass, and wherein astaxanthin is mainly esterification of astaxanthin; (2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by Semen pruni armeniacae oil and candelilla wax wax in mass ratio 5:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 85 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) astaxanthin Semen pruni armeniacae oil mixed liquor is prepared: add in the middle of Semen pruni armeniacae oil by esterification of astaxanthin prepared by step (1) in the ratio of mass fraction 5%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin Oleum Cocois mixed liquor; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 4min, the astaxanthin Semen pruni armeniacae oil mixed liquor prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 10:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel and Fructus Mangifera Indicae essence, addition (mass fraction) is respectively 2.5%, 1% and 0.6%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 20min, then takes out fill, is placed in 0 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 40min.
Embodiment 4
A manufacture method for astaxanthin lip pomade, comprises the following steps: the preparation of (1) esterification of astaxanthin: take Antarctic krill powder 100g, be placed in 1L extraction kettle, adds 100mL ethanol as cosolvent simultaneously.Set extraction parameters, extraction kettle temperature is 41 DEG C, and pressure is 30MPa, CO 2flow be 20L/h, separation reactor I temperature is 32 DEG C, and pressure is 8MPa, separation reactor I I temperature is 37 DEG C, and continuous dynamic extraction 2h, sporadically collects dark red solution from separating still.Then extracting solution is removed cosolvent through concentrating under reduced pressure, obtain bolarious sticky mass, wherein astaxanthin is mainly esterification of astaxanthin; (2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil and Cera Flava in mass ratio 9:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 90 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) astaxanthin Semen pruni armeniacae oil mixed liquor is prepared: add in the middle of Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil by esterification of astaxanthin prepared by step (1) in the ratio of mass fraction 5%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil mixed liquor; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 4min, the astaxanthin Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil mixed liquor prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 20:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel and strawberry essence, addition (mass fraction) is respectively 2%, 1% and 0.6%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 40min, then takes out fill, is placed in 4 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 2h.
Embodiment 5
A manufacture method for astaxanthin lip pomade, comprises the following steps: the preparation of (1) esterification of astaxanthin: be that raw material carries out chemosynthesis with free astaxanthin.Take 2g free astaxanthin and 300g sad, added in reaction vessel, add immobilized-lipase 100g simultaneously, add water 30mL, stir, stir under 45 DEG C of conditions, until reaction reaches balance, filtered and recycled immobilized-lipase, then through silica column purification, obtains esterification of astaxanthin.(2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by shea butter and lanoline in mass ratio 3:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 90 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) astaxanthin shea butter mixed liquor is prepared: the esterification of astaxanthin that step (1) is obtained is added in the middle of shea butter in the ratio of mass fraction 0.8%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin shea butter mixed liquor; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 3min, the astaxanthin shea butter mixed liquor prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 2:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel and strawberry essence, addition (mass fraction) is respectively 1%, 3% and 0.1%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 15min, then takes out fill, is placed in 2 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 4h.
Embodiment 6
Prepared by 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant: the preparation of the two succinic acid glucose ester derivant of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene
Take 1g 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene powder, add the succinic anhydrides of 3 times of moles, be heated to 50 DEG C, reaction 2h; Reacted in backward reaction system and slowly added water stirring, treat that it occurs precipitation, collected by filtration thing, obtains hydroxy esterification product; The hydroxy esterification product obtained is dissolved in 80% ethanol, adds the glucose of 3 times of moles, under 50 DEG C of conditions, reaction 2h, after having reacted, slowly adds acetone to Precipitation in reaction system, collecting precipitation, then uses water dissolution, obtains 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant aqueous solution; Carry out dehydrate, obtain the two succinic acid glucose ester derivant of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene, its chemical structural formula is as follows:
Another kind of preparation method:
Take the acetone soln that 10mL contains 0.1g 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene, add the succinic anhydrides of 4 times of moles, be heated to 60 DEG C, reaction 1.5h; Reacted in backward reaction system and slowly added water stirring, treat that it occurs precipitation, collected by filtration thing, obtains hydroxy esterification product; The hydroxy esterification product obtained is dissolved in 95% ethanol, adds the fructose of 2 times of moles, under 65 DEG C of conditions, reaction 1h, after having reacted, slowly adds ethylene glycol to Precipitation in reaction system, collecting precipitation, then uses water dissolution, obtains 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant aqueous solution; Carry out dehydrate, obtain the two succinic acid fructose ester derivant of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene, its chemical structural formula is as follows:
The 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant of preparation is compared with raw material 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene, and the dispersion in aqueous phase solution is significantly improved, and namely water solublity increases; Solve because dissolubility is limited and limit its investigation and application problem in aqueous phase solution.
3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant is added in lip pomade manufacturing process, specific as follows:
(1) preparation of esterification of astaxanthin: the biological raw material using Haematocoocus Pluvialls as preparation esterification of astaxanthin, take a certain amount of haematococcus pluvialis powder, add the ethanol of 3 times ~ 20 times raw materials quality (W/V), lixiviate 1 time ~ 3 times repeatedly, each lixiviate 0.1h ~ 12h, merge lixiviating solution, then lixiviating solution is through concentrating under reduced pressure, remove solvent, more purifiedly prepare esterification of astaxanthin; (2) prepare oily wax mixed liquor: by olive oil and Cera Flava in mass ratio 4:1 take, be placed on heating and melting under 80 DEG C of conditions, heat while stirring, until wax dissolves completely, solution clear; (3) prepare astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid: esterification of astaxanthin prepared by step (1) added in the middle of olive oil in the ratio of mass fraction 2%, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve completely, form the solution of homogeneous thickness, be made into astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid; (4) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor is prepared: oily wax mixed liquor step (2) prepared is after room temperature cooling 2min, the astaxanthin mixed with olive oil liquid prepared with step (3) mixes by a certain percentage, mixed proportion is volume ratio 8:1, limit bevelling stirs, abundant mixing, i.e. astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor; (5) prepare burden: in the astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor of step (4), add vitamin E successively, Mel, apple essence, 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant (Compound I), addition (mass fraction) is respectively 0.5%, 1%, 0.1%, 0.005%, fully mixes; (6) fill, molding: the mixed liquor after step (5) is added adjuvant is placed in vacuum drying oven, and at 65 DEG C, reduce pressure under 210Pa condition de-bubbled 20min, then takes out fill, is placed in 4 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 1h.
U.S. lip effect detection: with lip pomade sample prepare by the embodiment of the present invention 1, carried out comparing of upper chromatic effect to lip pomade sample prepared by the present embodiment, with spectrophotometric color measurement instrument measure color of the lip change (L* value sign be the Black-White of skin, L* is larger, shows that skin is whiter.Use the difference DELTA L* of front skin Black-White after product uses with product, the change of skin Black-White can be reacted).Result is as follows:
Test result shows, and the improvement effect of lip pomade to color of the lip of adding 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant is better than the lip pomade not adding 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant, illustrates that 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant can increase the color of lip pomade, better embodies U.S. lip effect.Wherein the addition (mass fraction) of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant is 0.001% ~ 0.01%.
The effect of lip pomade prepared by the present invention is described below:
1. the anxious poison test of rat
Carry out the anxious poison test of rat to the product of the embodiment of the present invention 1 ~ 5, result shows this product and belongs to non-toxic type.
2. sun-proof and repair function test
Tested object is lip pomade sample and the control sample (replacing the esterification of astaxanthin in test sample in control sample with the olive oil of equivalent) of embodiment 1 preparation.
Choose quality (20 ± 2) g Kunming healthy mice 6, male and female half and half, are divided into 2 groups at random, often organize 3.Prophylactically smear test sample and control sample to mice respectively, every back is to 0.6mL, and every monaural, to 0.3mL, 2 times/d, smears 4d altogether.Mice to be horizontally fixed on brandreth and to be placed in apart from uviol lamp vertical dimension 10cm place irradiation 6h, causing skin lesion mouse model.With mouse skin keratinization and decortication degree for evaluation index, observe mouse back change of skin situation, analyze the protective effect of sample to mouse skin opposing ultraviolet injury.
Skin lesion mouse model continuation ridge disconnected after ultraviolet radiation 40h is put to death, weigh mice quality, get circular auricle and the skin graft of two ears and back 9mm diameter more respectively, its quality of accurate weighing, calculate ear index (ear index=auricle quality/mice quality) and skin index (skin index=skin graft quality/mice quality), analyze mice edema shot wounded by sample inhibitory action to ultraviolet.Get after back portion skin 10% formaldehyde fixes 24h, obtained sealing sample.Sealing sample is placed in 10 times of Microscopic observation skin configurations, the skin observed from the visual field under 40 times of mirrors again claps the first pictures topmost, often move scale 2mm bat afterwards and get one, choose 5 points on every pictures with microimage analysing system after bat gets 5, measure its epidermal thickness, every pictures measures 25 points altogether, averages and is designated as epidermal thickness, analyzes sample to the cornified inhibitory action of mouse skin.Every pictures gets 6 visuals field, counts fibroblast number in each visual field, averages and is designated as each visual field dermal fibroblast number.
Ultraviolet injury mouse ear index, skin index, epidermal thickness and fibroblast measurement result are in table 1.
Table 1: ultraviolet injury mouse ear index, skin index, epidermal thickness and fibroblast
Result shows, mice by after ultraviolet radiation, low all than painting control sample of the mouse ear index of painting test sample, skin index, epidermal thickness value, many than painting control sample of fibroblast number in its dermal tissue.Therefore, above-mentioned result of the test shows, astaxanthin lip pomade prepared by the present invention effectively can suppress the lesional epidermis caused by ultraviolet radiation to thicken, suppresses epidermal cornified, reduce that inflammation occurs, induced fibroblast generates.Astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention, while protection skin is from ultraviolet injury, can also improve barrier function and the self-protection ability of skin.
3. the sample that prepared by pair embodiment 1 carries out U.S. lip efficacy test
Choose healthy volunteer (without serious systemic disease, immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease, to cosmetics without allergy, facial NAI, do not use hormone medicine or immunosuppressant, do not participate in other clinical trials, do not smear external preparation) 20, wherein male 6, women 14, age 28-35 year, average 32 years old.Be divided into 2 groups at random, namely embodiment 1 obtains astaxanthin lip pomade test sample group and lip pomade Matrix controls group (control sample is the esterification of astaxanthin replaced with the olive oil of equivalent in test sample, then the lip pomade substrate that the method described according to embodiment 1 prepares), often organize 10.
Sample is applied to separately volunteer's skin of lip of place group, after 4h, effect evaluation is improved to volunteer's skin of lip.
Adopt the water content (%) in moisture of skin measuring instrument mensuration skin of lip horny layer, skin elasticity tester test skin of lip elasticity (in test process, negative pressure is constant is 450Mpa), namely result springback capacity Ur(cancels the recovery value of negative pressure skin after 0.1 second) represent with the ratio of the maximum tension amount Uf of skin, numerical value, more close to 1, illustrates that skin elasticity is better.
Wrinkle of skin tester test skin of lip wrinkle is adopted (first to copy the wrinkle of skin model of institute's measurement site with silicon mould, computer carries out grade separation and statistical disposition according to the wrinkle of skin degree of depth), calculation sample use before, use after skin mean roughness R3(namely: arithmetic mean number is got to the R1 value measured by 5 equal length, different segment, wherein R1 represents the distance in certain length between peak value and minimum, μm).Result with Δ R3(namely: use before sample with use sample after the difference of skin mean roughness) represent, numerical value is higher, represents effect improving wrinkles better.
Adopt skin image analyser to make a video recording to same lip position, measure and draw the varied in thickness (μm) of lip after using sample, spectrophotometric color measurement instrument measure color of the lip change (L* value sign be the Black-White of skin, L* is larger, shows that skin is whiter.Use the difference DELTA L* of front skin Black-White after product uses with product, the change of skin Black-White can be reacted).
Said determination the results are shown in Table 2.
Table 2: each sample is to the improvement effect of skin of lip
The display of above-mentioned result of the test, compared with lip pomade Matrix controls group, test sample to skin of lip degree of hydration, drying, coarse, elasticity, compact, the improvement effect of wrinkle, lip thickness and color of the lip is all more obvious.This illustrates that the antioxidant activity of astaxanthin is played in lip pomade, further illustrates astaxanthin lip pomade of the present invention and has significant lip care, U.S. lip effect.
4. treat cheilitis effect test
Choosing 20 clinical diagnosises is chronic cheilitis patient, at 15 ~ 60 years old age, is divided into two groups at random, and first group is test group, smears the product that the present embodiment 1 is obtained; Second group is matched group, smears emulsion of hydrocortisone butyrate, every day twice, and connect painting two weeks, its result is as shown in table 4.
Table 4: treatment cheilitis effect test result
And, to the testing result of lip balm product prepared by other embodiment of the present invention and the lip balm product effect of embodiment similar, show that astaxanthin lip balm product prepared by the present invention has the effect of certain auxiliary treatment cheilitis, can be used as the use of generation of auxiliary treatment, prevention and reduction cheilitis.
Finally it may be noted that; the embodiment of the present invention is the present invention's preferably embodiment; but embodiments of the present invention are not restricted to the described embodiments; change, the modification done under other any does not deviate from spirit of the present invention and principle, substitute, combine, simplify; the substitute mode of equivalence all should be considered as, be included in protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (3)

1. a manufacture method for astaxanthin lip pomade, its step is as follows:
1) oily wax mixed liquor is prepared: after base oil and wax in mass ratio 1 ~ 10:1 mixing, under 80 ~ 90 DEG C of conditions, heating and melting makes clear transparent solutions;
2) prepare astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor: the ratio of esterification of astaxanthin in mass fraction 0.1 ~ 10% added in the middle of base oil, and be stirred to astaxanthin and dissolve form astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor completely;
3) prepare astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor: by step 1) the oily wax mixed liquor prepared after room temperature cooling 2 ~ 5min, with step 2) the astaxanthin base oil mixed liquor prepared by volume 1 ~ 20:1 mix, formation astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor;
4) prepare burden: to step 3) astaxanthin oil wax mixed liquor in add vitamin E successively, Mel and fruit essence, addition mass fraction is respectively 0.5 ~ 3%, 0.1 ~ 3% and 0 ~ 1%, fully mix;
In step 4) in be also added with a kind of 3,4,3',4'-tetraketo-.beta.-carotene derivant, its chemical general formula is:
Wherein, Sugar is any one or several in glucose, fructose, galactose, lactose or gentiobiose;
5) fill, molding: by step 4) add the mixed liquor after adjuvant and be placed in vacuum drying oven, at 65 DEG C, the de-bubbled that reduces pressure under 210Pa condition 5 ~ 60min, then takes out fill, is placed in 0 ~ 4 DEG C of temperature and solidifies 0.5 ~ 24h.
2. the manufacture method of astaxanthin lip pomade as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that base oil used is one or more in olive oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Oleum Cocois, Semen pruni armeniacae oil and shea butter.
3. the manufacture method of astaxanthin lip pomade as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that wax used is Cera Flava, candelilla wax, the mixture of one or more born in ground lira wax and lanoline.
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