The specific embodiment
The preparation of embodiment 1 anti aging effect compositions of the present invention
Get Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei 30g, Herba Portulacae 31g, Radix Puerariae 24g, Radix Rehmanniae 18g, Folium Ginkgo 10g, pulverize, after mixing, decoct with water 3 times, each 1.5h, merging filtrate, concentrated, gained extractum after dry, then add oil phase adjuvant conventional in suitable quantity of water and external preparation, be prepared into skin care item.
The preparation of embodiment 2 anti aging effect compositions of the present invention
Get Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei 25g, Herba Portulacae 36g, Radix Puerariae 28g, Radix Rehmanniae 21g, Folium Ginkgo 13g, pulverize, after mixing, decoct with water 3 times, each 1.5h, merging filtrate, concentrated, gained extractum after dry, then add oil phase adjuvant conventional in suitable quantity of water and external preparation, be prepared into skin care item.
The preparation of embodiment 3 anti aging effect compositions of the present invention
Get Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei 30g, Herba Portulacae 31g, Radix Puerariae 24g, Radix Rehmanniae 18g, Folium Ginkgo 10g, pulverize, after mixing, add 70%v/v alcohol reflux 2 times, each 1h, merge extractive liquid,, reclaim after ethanol, dry gained extractum, then add oil phase adjuvant conventional in suitable quantity of water and external preparation, be prepared into skin care item.
The preparation of embodiment 4 anti aging effect compositions of the present invention
Get Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei 35g, Herba Portulacae 26g, Radix Puerariae 20g, Radix Rehmanniae 15g, Folium Ginkgo 7g, pulverize, after mixing, add 60%v/v ethanol ultrasonic extraction 3 times, each 15 ~ 20min, merge extractive liquid,, reclaim after ethanol, dry gained extractum, then add oil phase adjuvant conventional in suitable quantity of water and external preparation, be prepared into skin care item.
The preparation of the various crude drug extracts of embodiment 5
Take each crude drug of Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei, Herba Portulacae, Radix Puerariae, Radix Rehmanniae or Folium Ginkgo, pulverize as coarse powder, decoct with water respectively three times, each 1.5 hours; By the decocting liquid of each crude drug, cross respectively D101 macroporous resin adsorption, wash with water to water lotion colourlessly, with 70%v/v ethanol elution, to colourless, collect 70% ethanol elution filtrate, decompression filtrate recycling ethanol, concentrate eluant, concentrated solution spraying is dry, obtains.
With each crude drug extract of high effective liquid chromatography for measuring:
In Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract, the total amount that contains emodin and chrysophanol is that 9.24%, 1g dry extract is equivalent to 7.4-7.6g rhubarb medicinal material.
In Herba portulacae extract, containing total flavones 25.10%, 1g dry extract is equivalent to 10.3-10.5g Herba Portulacae medical material.
In Radix Puerariae extract, containing puerarin 27.25%; 1g dry extract is equivalent to 8g Radix Puerariae medical material.
In Radix Rehmanniae extract, containing catalpol 10.62%, verbascoside 6.34%; 1g dry extract is equivalent to 8.8-9.0g Radix Rehmanniae medical material.
In Folium Ginkgo extract, flavonol glycosides 29.52%, terpene lactone is with bilobalide, ginkalide A, ginkalide B and ginkalide C total amount meter 8.35%.1g dry extract is equivalent to 9.8-10.0g Folium Ginkgo medical material.
The preparation of the various crude drug extracts of embodiment 6
Take each crude drug of Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei, Herba Portulacae, Radix Puerariae, Radix Rehmanniae or Folium Ginkgo, pulverize as coarse powder, decoct with water respectively three times, each 1.5 hours; By the decocting liquid of each crude drug, cross respectively DM301 macroporous resin adsorption, wash with water to water lotion colourlessly, with 80%v/v ethanol elution, to colourless, collect 80% ethanol elution filtrate, decompression filtrate recycling ethanol, concentrate eluant, concentrated solution spraying is dry, obtains.
After testing, in Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract prepared by the present embodiment, containing the total amount 12.57% of emodin and chrysophanol; In Herba portulacae extract, containing total flavones 18.24%; In Radix Puerariae extract, containing puerarin 12.36%; In Radix Rehmanniae extract, containing catalpol 8.51%, verbascoside 4.17%; In Folium Ginkgo extract, flavonol glycosides 26.58%, terpene lactone is with bilobalide, ginkalide A, ginkalide B and ginkalide C total amount meter 6.71%.
Due to quality of medicinal material difference, and the impact of storing, transporting, in the present invention, according to the extract active constituent content of embodiment 5,6 preparations, the quality index of drafting each extract is as follows:
Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract: calculate containing dry product by this product, the total amount that contains emodin and chrysophanol must not be less than 0.45%.Meet " Extractum Rhei Liquidum " lower quality standard in one 371 pages of < < Chinese Pharmacopoeia > > versions in 2010.
Herba portulacae extract: calculate containing dry product by this product, must not be less than 15% containing total flavones.
Radix Puerariae extract: calculate containing dry product by this product, must not be less than 9% containing puerarin.
Radix Rehmanniae extract: calculate containing dry product by this product, must not be less than 6% containing catalpol, verbascoside must not be less than 3%.
Folium Ginkgo extract: calculate containing dry product by this product, flavonol glycosides is no less than 24.0%, terpene lactone is with bilobalide, ginkalide A, ginkalide B and ginkalide C total amount meter are no less than 6.0%.Meet " Folium Ginkgo extract " lower quality standard in one 392 pages of < < Chinese Pharmacopoeia > > versions in 2010.
The extracting method of each crude drug of the present invention is not limited only to said method, by the restriction of index components, adopts other method of bibliographical information also alternative.
The preparation of embodiment 7 protective skin cream of the present invention
A oil phase (percentage by weight)
Cera Flava 3.5%, stearic acid 3.2%, 16/18 alcohol 4.0%, simethicone 0.5%, lanoline 0.8%, vitamin A 0.6%, vitamin D 0.6%, vitamin E 0.8%;
B water (percentage by weight)
Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract 4%, Herba portulacae extract 3%, Radix Puerariae extract 3%, Radix Rehmanniae extract 2%, Folium Ginkgo extract 1%, glycerol 6.5%, carboxyethyl cellulose 0.31%, hyaluronic acid 0.5%, vitamin C 0.5%, deionized water complement to 100%;
Preparation method: water and oil phase respectively after heat fused, when water stirs, slowly added to oil phase and stir, continue to stir 1h, stopping stirring, standing, be cooled to room temperature, obtain anti-aging skin cream.In the present embodiment, each extract is from embodiment 5.
The preparation of embodiment 8 emulsions of the present invention
A oil phase (percentage by weight)
Poloxamer 3%, span601.5%, polysorbate60 2%, white oil 18%, tragcanth 0.5%, bone collagen 2%, vitamin E 0.8%;
B water (percentage by weight)
Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract 5%, Herba portulacae extract 3%, Radix Puerariae extract 4%, Radix Rehmanniae extract 1%, Folium Ginkgo extract 1%, glycerol 6%, carbomer 3%, butanediol 0.5%, vitamin B 0.5%, vitamin C 0.5%, deionized water complement to 100%;
Preparation method: be uniformly mixed after oil phase and water are melted respectively, when oil phase stirs, slowly mixed water added in emulsion tank and stirred, continuous stirring 20min, stops stirring, and standing cooling room temperature, obtains defying age emulsion.In the present embodiment, each extract is from embodiment 5.
The preparation of embodiment 8 gels of the present invention
Take as following weight percent raw material: Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract 3%, Herba portulacae extract 4%, Radix Puerariae extract 4%, Radix Rehmanniae extract 2%, Folium Ginkgo extract 2%, Acritamer 940 1%, glycerol 5%, sodium hydroxide (10% solution) 0.04%, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monoleate 0.2%, ethyl hydroxybenzoate 0.1%, distilled water complement to 100%;
Preparation method: carbomer and Polysorbate are dissolved in 30ml distilled water, add sodium hydroxide solution, add Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract after stirring evenly, Herba portulacae extract, Radix Puerariae extract, Radix Rehmanniae extract, Folium Ginkgo extract, then ethyl hydroxybenzoate is added and stirred evenly gradually, defying age gel obtained.In the present embodiment, each extract is from embodiment 5.
The preparation of embodiment 9 astringent of the present invention
Take as following weight percent raw material: Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract 3%, Herba portulacae extract 2%, Radix Puerariae extract 2%, Radix Rehmanniae extract 1%, Folium Ginkgo extract 2%, glycerol 10%, propylene glycol 3%, polysorbate60 3%, fruit acid 1%, bone collagen 1%, co-ferment Q101%, PEG400 2%, vitamin e1 %, deionized water complement to 100%;
Preparation method: after Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract, Herba portulacae extract, Radix Puerariae extract, Radix Rehmanniae extract, Folium Ginkgo extract mix, add glycerol, propylene glycol, tween, fruit acid, bone collagen, co-ferment Q10, PEG400, vitamin E, deionized water complement to 100ml mix homogeneously and obtain defying age astringent.In the present embodiment, each extract is from embodiment 5.
The preparation of embodiment 10 facial films of the present invention
Take as following weight percent raw material: Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract 4%, Herba portulacae extract 4%, Radix Puerariae extract 2%, Radix Rehmanniae extract 2%, Folium Ginkgo extract 2%, glycerol 8%, Polyethylene Glycol 80016%, trehalose 1%, allantoin 0.1%, EDETATE SODIUM 0.1%, hyaluronic acid 1.2%, vitamin e1 %, deionized water complement to 100%;
Preparation method: deionized water takes a morsel, add Polyethylene Glycol 800, glycerol, trehalose heated and stirred, to be cooled to room temperature, add allantoin, EDETATE SODIUM, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, add again Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract, Herba portulacae extract, Radix Puerariae extract, Radix Rehmanniae extract, Folium Ginkgo extract, fully stir, solid matter is uniformly dispersed in colloid, obtain anti-ageing face mask.In the present embodiment, each extract is from embodiment 5.
By test example, illustrate beneficial effect of the present invention below.
The impact of test example 1 present composition on body Fibroblast collagenase
The important function of Fibroblast collagenase (MMP-1) in skin aging process, it is active that people will suppress MMP-1 gradually, suppress abnormal collagen degradation, reduce scytitis reaction and prevent the wrinkle that skin photoage produces, as the new way of slow down aging.
According to matrix metalloproteinase causes of senescence, extraneous factor causes Fibroblast collagenase (MMP-1) increased activity, and excessive degradation extracellular matrix, has destroyed skin texture, causes the generation of wrinkle.If certain composition can effectively suppress the activity of Fibroblast collagenase, just can reduce destruction and the loss of extracellular matrix, stop the generation of wrinkle, reach the object of opposing skin aging.Therefore, by vitro inhibition Fibroblast collagenase (MMP-1) activity experiment, set up external efficacy detection method, can there is elimination microgroove, the skin that compacts, the cosmetics additive of crease-resistant wrinkle removal effect for screening.
1, experimental technique
Under the prerequisite of destructive enzyme reaction system not, add functional component, by enzyme reaction system, detect the variation of product fluorescence intensity, indirectly reflect the variation of enzyme activity, thus the influence of reflection functional component to MMP-1 activity.
Specific experiment step
(1) solvent preparation:
1. prepare buffer (50mmol/L HEPES, 0.12mol/L NaCl, 10mmol/L CaCl
2, 20 μ mol/L, ZnSO4,0.05%Brij-35, pH=7.5);
2. MMP-1 proenzyme is standby with buffer gradient dilution to 0.22 μ g/100 μ L;
3. fluorogenic substrate DQ-gelatin is standby with buffer gradient dilution to 0.20 μ g/100 μ L;
4. in the 0.1mol/L of 1L NaOH solution, add the zymoexcitator APMA of 30mmol, form APMA storing solution (30mmol/L) standby;
5. each determinand is mixed with to the solution for standby of 1mg/ml concentration: respectively in Chinese medicine of the five flavours extract proportioning ratio in embodiment 7-9, be designated respectively test 1-3 group; The extractum of embodiment 1 preparation, is designated 4 groups of tests; The extractum of embodiment 3 preparations, is designated 5 groups of tests; The extract of embodiment 6 preparations, in the Chinese medicine extract ratio proportioning of embodiment 7, is designated 6 groups of tests.The water extract preparation method of each single crude drug is identical with embodiment 1 extracting method; The ethanol extract preparation method of each single crude drug is identical with embodiment 3 extracting method.
(2) activation of MMP-1 proenzyme:
MMP-1 proenzyme solution (0.22 μ g/100 μ L) and APMA solution (30mmol/L) are pressed to the volume ratio (MMP:APMA) of 10:1 and mixed, at 37 ℃, hatch 45min activation;
(3) application of sample:
MMP-1 solution (concentration has been reduced to 0.20 μ g/100 μ L) the 40 μ L that get after activation add in 96 hole ELISA Plate, add again certain to treat measuring plants functional component solution 8 μ L, fluorogenic substrate DQ-gelatin solution (0.20 μ g/100 μ L) 52 μ L, making end reaction system is 100 μ L;
Table 1 vitro inhibition MMP-1 experiment application of sample table
(4) constant-temperature incubation: the 96 hole ELISA Plate that complete application of sample are put into 37 ℃ of incubator constant-temperature incubation 600s.
2, experimental result detects
(1) before reaction, in excitation wavelength, be 460nm, under the testing conditions that emission wavelength is 520nm, detect the fluorescence intensity for the treatment of measuring plants functional component;
(2) reaction system detects the fluorescence intensity of whole reaction system immediately with fluorescence microplate reader after stopping hatching, and excitation wavelength is 460nm, and emission wavelength is 520nm.
Data Processing in Experiment:
MMP-1 suppresses percent (%)=[1-(A1-A2)/A0] * 100%
The fluorescence intensity of plant functional component inhibition group is added in A1-representative
The fluorescence intensity of measuring plants functional component self is treated in A2-representative
A0-the represent fluorescence intensity of blank group
3, vitro inhibition MMP-1 plant functional component result
The suppression ratio of table 2 plant functional component to MMP-1 activity
It is more remarkable to the active inhibition of MMP-1 that this experiment suppresses this effective ingredients in plant of the larger expression of percent.
By experimental result, can be found out, under same medicine concentration, the present composition and single medicinal material extract all have certain inhibitory action to Fibroblast collagenase, show that the present composition has elimination microgroove, the skin that compacts, the effect of crease-resistant wrinkle removal.Wherein, the present composition all apparently higher than single medicinal material extract, shows that the present invention combines each taste Chinese medicine after use, has brought into play synergistic function to the suppression ratio of MMP-1.
The moisture-keeping function of test example 2 delay aging drug extracts to human body skin
1, the mensuration of keratodermatitis moisture, moisture loss are measured
Moisture is one of important moulding material of epiderm skin horny layer, horny layer of epidermis attenuation during skin aging, and in horny layer, nature moisturizing factor content reduces, and skin hydration ability reduces, and moisture of skin is lost to be increased; Meanwhile,, there is histological structure and morphological change and make skin engender tiny wrinkle in cell shrinkage Telatrophy.By reflecting to a certain extent the degree of skin aging and the effect of anti-aging skin care product to the mensuration of moisture of skin.
Experimental technique: select healthy skin normal, without the tested crowd of cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis history, age 20-35 year, wherein male is 10,20 of women.25 ℃ ± 1 ℃ of indoor temperature; Humidity 50% ± 5%.During test, facial cleansing is clean, and everyone time of clean is identical, selects buccal portion 4cm * 4cm skin as test zone after skin dries, and smears corresponding product 2g.
Protective skin cream group of the present invention, smears the protective skin cream (extract total concentration is 13%w/w) that embodiment 7 makes; Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, smears containing 13%w/w Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract protective skin cream (Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract of embodiment 5 preparations, presses embodiment 1 supplementary product consumption proportioning, prepares protective skin cream); Tester is smeared the substrate protective skin cream that does not contain Chinese medicine extract.
Measure: at buccal portion (4cm * 4cm) test zone, after product to be used, 10min tests.
1) with digital moisture of skin detector, measure buccal portion moisture content of skin.Use after 1h, 2h after corresponding product, 4h, 6h, test surfaces skin of cheek water content, measures 3 times and averages.
2) use percutaneous moisture loss measuring instrument to measure the moisture of skin value of scattering and disappearing, use after 1h, 2h after corresponding product, 4h, 6h, test surfaces skin of cheek water loss amount, measures 3 times and averages.
Experimental result:
1) mensuration of keratodermatitis moisture
Thereby the moisture-keeping efficacy of cosmetics is evaluated in the variation of using the variation of product front and back keratodermatitis capacitance to weigh water content of stratum corneum by measurement.This kind of method carried out quantification to the moisture of keratodermatitis, can react delicately the variation of skin moisture content, and favorable reproducibility, is one of conventional method of current moisture-keeping cosmetics effect evaluation.Anti-aging product is as shown in table 3 on the impact of skin moisture content.
Table 3 moisture test value
Note: compare * P < 0.05, * * P < 0.01 with matched group
As can be seen from Table 3, protective skin cream group of the present invention and Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, after using 1h, moistening effect is remarkable, and wherein, the performance of keeping humidity of protective skin cream group of the present invention is better than Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, and the moisture-keeping efficacy time is longer.
2) mensuration that moisture scatters and disappears (TEWL) through skin
Moisture of skin windage (Transepidermal water loss, TEWL) reflected in test period, Experimental Area moisture loss change with time, and it can characterize the lock water function of cosmetics.Its value is less, and moisture loss is fewer, and lock outlet capacity is stronger; Otherwise lock outlet capacity is more weak.Anti-aging skin cream is as shown in table 4 on the lost impact of moisture of skin.
Table 4 moisture loss test value
Note: compare * P < 0.05, * * P < 0.01 with matched group
As shown in Table 4, after use protective skin cream of the present invention and Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei protective skin cream, skin moisture windage (TEWL) has decline in various degree.With matched group comparison, all there is significant difference at 2-6h in protective skin cream group of the present invention, illustrates that protective skin cream tool of the present invention continues to keep " lock water " effect of moisture, and its lock water effect is better than Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, and the lock water function persistent period is longer.
Test example 3 skin elasticity tests
Skin elasticity reduces with skin aging, so skin elasticity is one of important symbol of judgement skin aging, is the requisite project of efficacy detection of anti-aging cosmetics.
Experimental technique: select healthy skin normal, without the tested crowd of cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis history, age 20-35 year, wherein male is 10,20 of women.Take week as 1 course for the treatment of, 4 courses for the treatment of altogether, smear front that facial cleansing is totally at every turn, and the time of each clean is all identical, smears corresponding product after skin dries, and each is organized and smears corresponding product every day 2 times, each 2g.
Protective skin cream group of the present invention, smears the protective skin cream (extract total concentration is 13%w/w) that embodiment 7 makes; Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, smears the protective skin cream (Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract of embodiment 5 preparations, presses embodiment 1 supplementary product consumption proportioning, prepares protective skin cream) containing 13%w/w Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei extract; Tester is smeared the substrate protective skin cream that does not contain Chinese medicine extract.
Measure: select buccal portion as test zone, after product to be used, 10min tests.Use skin elasticity tester to measure skin elasticity curve, according to the amount of tension of skin and resilience data, can evaluate the moisturizing of cosmetics and senile-resistant efficacy.
Experimental result:
Skin elasticity performance test is based on suction and stretching principle, surface at tested skin produces a negative pressure, in fc-specific test FC probe of skin inspiration, the indrawn degree of depth of skin is to record by a contactless optic testing system, measurement result represents with an index conventionally, unit is 1, and numerical value is larger, illustrates that skin elasticity is stronger.Anti-aging product is as shown in table 5 on the impact of skin elasticity.
Table 5 skin elasticity test value
Note: compare * P < 0.05, * * P < 0.01 with matched group
As can be seen from Table 5, protective skin cream group of the present invention and Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group buccal place elasticity number raise gradually, use protective skin cream of the present invention after 1 week, and after 2 weeks, the elasticity number of skin starts obvious raising.Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group is improved at the 3rd, 4 weeks skin elasticity numbers.With matched group comparison, protective skin cream group of the present invention can obviously strengthen the elasticity of skin, and effect be better than Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei group, onset is rapider, illustrates that protective skin cream of the present invention has enhancing skin elasticity, improves the function of skin state.
In sum, the present composition, active good to the inhibition of Fibroblast collagenase, moisture-keeping function is strong, the persistent period is long, can effectively strengthen skin elasticity, simultaneously, said composition is by each Chinese crude drug reasonable compatibility, brought into play synergistic function, there is activity of fighting against senium more significantly, a kind of new skin care item of eliminating microgroove, the skin that compacts, crease-resistant wrinkle removal effect that have are provided.