CN103074721A - Light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103074721A
CN103074721A CN201110355386.4A CN201110355386A CN103074721A CN 103074721 A CN103074721 A CN 103074721A CN 201110355386 A CN201110355386 A CN 201110355386A CN 103074721 A CN103074721 A CN 103074721A
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China
Prior art keywords
fabric
hollow
frivolous
yarn
dyeing
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CN201110355386.4A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
楚正兵
蔡东照
许金碧
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201110355386.4A priority Critical patent/CN103074721A/en
Publication of CN103074721A publication Critical patent/CN103074721A/en
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Abstract

The invention discloses light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and a production method thereof. Yarns accounting for 60 wt percent of the fabric are hollow nylon yarns with the fineness in the range of 10-75 denier, the tearing strength of the fabric in the warp and weft direction is in the range of 10-15 N, and the venting quality is less than 1.5 cc/cm<2>.sec. According to the light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and the production method thereof, the technique is simple, the cost is low, the natural wrinkle effect is durable, and the nylon fabric also can have glossiness after being subjected to high-temperature calendaring. The light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and the production method thereof can be applicable to down wear, down jackets, sleeping bags, fashion and the like.

Description

A kind of frivolous crimped nylon fabric and production method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of nylon facing material, be specifically related to a kind of nylon facing material and production method thereof with frivolous corrugation effect.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard, also more and more higher to the visual effect requirement of clothes.Such as a lot of Crinkled face fabrics having occurred on the market in recent years.The at present processing of creped product generally is under the pressure-acting by machinery, and fabric break the processing of voltinism, or by chemicals fabric is carried out corrosion treatment, thereby produces the effect of wrinkling.This kind processing method engineering is complicated, and cost is high, and environment is had pollution.And the reflecting feel of general wrinkle product is all more weak, and after the calendering of arrangement high temperature, the wrinkle effect can obviously weaken after carrying out.
Terylene wrinkle processed goods is many in the market, and this is because the characteristic that terylene at high temperature easily shrinks, the processing that is fit to wrinkle, but there are easily the problems such as generation static, ABRASION RESISTANCE is not good in the terylene creped product.And nylon (polyamide) is although fiber has good hydrophily and ABRASION RESISTANCE, nylon facing material or be difficult to make the wrinkle effect take nylon as main fabric.
Disclose a kind of method of cockline arrangement among the patent CN 201010578532.5, to carrying out calendering, hot and cold water alternate cycles cloth is wrinkling again by first, and then temperature-gradient method dyeing makes cockline, forms the fabric that has positive and negative light and shade and corrugation effect is arranged.The wrinkling dyeing of this method need to be carried out step by step, and corrugation effect is unstable, and frivolous sense is not enough.
A kind of hot rolling wrinkle processing method of frivolous woven fabric is and for example disclosed among the patent CN200810203835.1, rearrange by at high temperature hot rolling of grey cloth being made the nylon fiber macromolecular structure produce, then pass through liquid-flow dyeing machine, narrow nozzle, make fabric be compressed in the surface and form obvious folding line.Same this production method complex process, wrinkling dyeing need to be carried out step by step, and pushes that the wrinkle effect of cloth cover is inhomogeneous when wrinkling, cost is high.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of technique simple, with low cost, have nylon light and thin fabric and the production method thereof of nature wrinkle effect.
The above yarn of frivolous Crinkled face fabric at least 60 % by weight of the present invention is the hollow nylon yarn of fiber number between 10~75 DENIER (hereinafter to be referred as D), and all between 10~50N, venting quality is at 1.5cc/cm through the tearing brute force of broadwise for this fabric 2.sec below.
The mass percent of hollow nylon yarn is higher, and the wrinkle effect of goods is stronger, and the surface density of fabric is just less, so the content of preferred hollow nylon yarn is 100%.Have the yarn of hollow structure by employing, it is produced when liquid flowing dyeing or airflow dyeing pile up hollow structure and change and form the fold of nature sense.The fiber number of hollow nylon yarn between 10~75 DENIER, preferred 20~40 DENIER.
The hollow rate of the hollow nylon yarn in the frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention is 2%~50%.The higher wrinkle of hollow rate is stronger, and frivolous sense is better.
The apparent crest number that records by ocular estimate of fabric is at 5~50, or bright spot position quantity is at 5~50.Fabric of the present invention has the draping effect of nature sense, fish scale-shaped wrinkle effect in other words, be described as with gray value: side is lifted 60 °, along through the gray value differences of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Go home after the front yard washing through 10, the glossiness of frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention is more than 1.5.Fabric had both had corrugation effect, have simultaneously again reflecting feel, and washing resistance was good.
The grammes per square metre of frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention is at 30~100g/m 2
The production method of frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention is as follows: the yarn more than weft yarn at least 60% weight select hollow rate between 25%~40%, the hollow nylon yarn of fiber number between 10~75 DENIER weave, form the grey cloth of coverage coefficient between 1500~2500, and then through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, calendering after arrangement processing, get product, wherein liquid flowing dyeing or airflow dyeing processing are adopted in dyeing processing, and bath raio is 1: 1~30.
The coverage coefficient computing formula is as follows:
Coverage coefficient=warp-wise density * warp-wise fiber number 1/2+ latitudinal density * broadwise fiber number 1/2
Weave can be the alternative construction of plain weave, twill, satin weave or above-mentioned tissue, preferred plain weave.
The dyeing engineering adopts High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine or airflow dyeing machine, and the hollow nylon fiber is wrinkling can to carry out simultaneously with dyeing so the present invention is because adopted, and has so just saved operation, omitted equipment, and corrugation effect is lasting.Between 1: 1~30, best bath raio is between 1: 5~10 for bath raio during dyeing (cloth is heavy: water is heavy), and dyeing temperature is between 80~100 ℃.
Preferably add in rear arrangement and carry out 150~200 ℃ of high temperature calenderings man-hour, pressure is 30~60T, and speed is 5~50m/min.Calendering processing can guarantee low venting quality, and number of times can be selected as required.And such processing can not only be had corrugation effect but also be had the fabric of reflecting feel, and the glossiness of gained fabric is more than 1.5.Although be Wrinkle fabric, by the wrinkle effect that the hollow nylon yarn forms, persistence is relatively good, can carry out satinage and obtain stronger reflecting feel, and through after the home washings 10 times, the finished product glossiness is still more than 1.5.Also can carry out the waterproof resin arrangement to fabric as required in the rear arrangement process of the present invention, give fabric superior water-proof function, can be used for the aspects such as down jackets, eider down jacket, sleeping bag, fashionable dress.
The present invention utilizes hollow yarns, in highdensity situation, during through liquid stream or airflow dyeing, in dyeing machine, pile up the fold that produces the nature sense, utilize hollow yarns easily to produce folding line, the fold persistence of formation is good, be not easy after this wrinkle produces to remove, can give fabric stronger reflecting feel by hot rolling.And the fabric that hollow yarns makes has light weight, the production technology simple and stable, and cost is low.
The specific embodiment
The method of testing of each related physical parameter is as follows among the present invention:
(1) venting quality: JIS 1096 aeration A methods
(2) tearing brute force: JIS L 1096 D methods
(3) gray value assay method: wavelet algorithm and signal period combine, general image is rgb format, here be that rgb format is converted to gray level image, the position of the thin section of each on the image, distribution, highly, the information such as size all transmits out by the gray value of composition diagram as picture element: each picture element can be with 256 tonal gradations, from 2~255.0 representative is black, the darkest position on the correspondence image, and gray value 255 representatives are white, the brightest position on the image.Because the angle of image acquisition has larger impact to it, this used angle contrasts 60 ° of sides of rear employing according to the result of reality and lifts to clap and get photo.
(4) home washings: GB-T 8629-2001
(5) glossiness: with digital goniophotometer UGV-5D, acceptance angle, incidence angle all is adjusted into 45 °, through the mean value of broadwise glossiness.
(6) grammes per square metre: GB-T 4669-2008
(7) hollow rate: sectional area ratio method, the area that calculates hollow space obtains percentage divided by whole area of section.
The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment and comparative example.
Embodiment 1
All adopting 70D-68f-FDY, hollow rate through weft yarn is 60% hollow nylon yarn, and tissue adopts plain weave to weave, and the grey cloth thread count of formation is that (root/inch), coverage coefficient is 1757 to 120*90.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein liquid flowing dyeing bath raio (cloth is heavy: water is heavy) is 1: 15; Rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 160 ℃ of calendering condition temperature, 60 tons of pressure.The hollow rate of the hollow nylon yarn in the gained fabric is 30%, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 75g/m 2, be 15*12 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 0.8cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Concise condition: scouring machine carries out concise destarch continuously, and concise destarch condition is refining agent 5g/L, NaOH 10g/L, and 20~40 seconds time of staying, cloth speed 40~80m/min, temperature is between 90~100 ℃.
Pre-setting condition: 160~200 ℃ of temperature, speed 40~100m/min.
Dyeing condition: bath raio 15,95 ℃ of dyeing temperatures, nozzle exit pressure 2.0, cloth speed 250~350m/min, dyeing time 3~5 hours.Water-proof finish: waterproofing agent (Daikin company does not contain PFOA) 10~50g/L.120~150 ℃ for the treatment of temperatures are predrying, 140~180 ℃ of arrangement typings, and cloth speed is at 30~80m/min.
Embodiment 2
Warp thread employing 28D-12f-FDY, hollow rate are 60% hollow nylon yarn, weft yarn is selected the common nylon yarn of 20D-24f-FDY (triangular cross-section), adopt plain weave to weave, (root/inch), coverage coefficient is 1520 to the thread count 187*126 of the grey cloth of formation.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, airflow dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein the liquid flowing dyeing bath raio is 1: 10; Rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 180 ℃ of calendering condition temperature, 60 tons of pressure, and all the other are with embodiment 1.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 5% in the gained fabric, and its shared mass percent is 70%, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 40g/m 2, be 13*10.5 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 1.05cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There are fold sense or folding line state in the fabric surface, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Embodiment 3
Warp thread employing 28D-12f-FDY, hollow rate are 25% hollow nylon yarn, weft yarn adopts the common nylon yarn of 30D-34f-FDY, adopt plain weave to weave, the thread count of formed grey cloth is that (root/inch), coverage coefficient is 1600 to 160*126.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein the airflow dyeing bath raio is 5, and rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 170 ℃ of calendering condition temperature, 60 tons of pressure, and all the other are with embodiment 1.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 10% in the gained fabric, and its shared mass percent is 65%, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 43g/m 2, be 10*10.5 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 0.95cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Embodiment 4
All adopting 28D-12f-FDY, hollow rate through weft yarn is 25% hollow nylon yarn, adopts plain weave to weave, and the thread count of formed grey cloth is that (root/Inch), coverage coefficient is 1520 to 187*126.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein the liquid flowing dyeing bath raio is 15, and rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 180 ℃ of calendering temperature, and 60 tons of pressure, all the other are with embodiment 1.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 10% in the gained fabric, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 38g/m 2, be 12*10.5 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 1.15cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Embodiment 5
All adopting 28D-12f-FDY, hollow rate through weft yarn is 25% hollow nylon yarn, adopts twill-weave to weave, and the thread count of formed grey cloth is that (root/Inch), coverage coefficient is 1926 to 208*156.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein the liquid flowing dyeing bath raio is 1: 20, and rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 180 ℃ of calendering temperature, and 60 tons of pressure, all the other are with embodiment 1.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 10% in the gained fabric, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 42g/m 2, be 16*12 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 1.25cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Embodiment 6
All adopting 28D-12f-FDY, hollow rate through weft yarn is 25% hollow nylon yarn, adopts the grid tissue to weave, and the thread count of formed grey cloth is that (root/Inch), coverage coefficient is 1640 to 176*134.Again with grey cloth through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING, after processing in being organized in, get frivolous Crinkled face fabric of the present invention.Wherein the liquid flowing dyeing bath raio is 15, and rear arrangement comprises waterproof resin arrangement and calendering processing, 180 ℃ of calendering temperature, and 60 tons of pressure, all the other are with embodiment 1.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 10% in the gained fabric, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 40g/m 2, be 21*18 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 1.2cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Embodiment 7
Calendering adopts the two sides calendering to process, and the calendering condition is 180 ℃, 60Ton pressure, and speed 30m/min, all the other are with embodiment 4.The hollow rate of hollow nylon yarn is 8.5% in the gained fabric, and the grammes per square metre of fabric is 37g/m 2, be 10*10 (N) through the broadwise tearing brute force, venting quality is 0.98cc/cm 2.sec, calendering face glossiness is greater than 1.5.There is irregular fish scale-shaped wrinkle on the fabric surface, also can be called thin earthworm shape wrinkle, show as side with gray value and lift 60 °, along through the gray scale difference value of the pixel of broadwise between 5~40.
Comparative example
Select the nylon plain cloth, adopt the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine to carry out in accordance with the following steps post processing: destarch, ready cloth is carried out destarch and dries clot, destarch speed 20m/min; Get cloth and beat look; Hot water cold water alternate cycles: the water in the dye vat is warmed up to 60 ℃, to be distributed into the 5~10min that circulates in the dye vat and carry out hot water circuit, then the hot water in the emptying dye vat also injects cold water immediately in dye vat, carries out the cold water circulation again, and the time priority of cold water circulation is selected 5~10min; ACID DYES is put into proportion container, and 60~95 ℃ of water stir in right amount in addition, until dyestuff fully dissolves, for subsequent use; Open the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine, adjust the machine technique that dyes easily: nozzle 70~90mm, gap 3.0~5.0mm, nozzle 2.0~3.0Kg, cloth wheel speed 350~450m/min, cloth wheel moment 40~50%, by-pass is transferred to " 0 ", and (cloth is heavy: water) be 1: 10~1: 15 for bath raio.Water is warmed up to 25 ℃, add successively dye leveller, acid, dyestuff, the PH to 4.5 of adjustment dyestuff~5, speed with 0.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃, then the speed with 0.8 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃, and the speed with 1.0 ℃/min rises to 110 ℃ again, is incubated 45min under 110 ℃ temperature, speed with 3 ℃/min is cooled to 90 ℃ again, carries out the cold water washing behind the fast cooling; To dye good cloth and dry with setting machine, the speed with 30m/min under 100 ℃ temperature is protected width of cloth drying and shaping.This manufacture method, complex process, wayward, high to equipment requirement.A little less than the wrinkle effect that makes, especially easily loss in typing, and can not obtain reflecting feel through the high temperature calendering.

Claims (7)

1. frivolous crimped nylon fabric is characterized in that: the above yarn of these fabric at least 60 % by weight is the hollow nylon yarn of fiber number between 10~75 DENIER, and this fabric through the tearing brute force of broadwise all between 10~50N, venting quality is at 1.5cc/cm 2.sec below.
2. described frivolous crimped nylon fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: this fabric is 5~40 along the gray value differences between the pixel of broadwise.
3. described frivolous crimped nylon fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the hollow rate of described hollow nylon yarn is 2%~50%.
4. described frivolous crimped nylon fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: go home after the washing of front yard through 10, the calendering face glossiness of this fabric is more than 1.5.
5. described frivolous crimped nylon fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the grammes per square metre of this fabric is at 30~100g/m 2
6. the production method of the described frivolous crimped nylon fabric of claim 1, it is characterized in that: the yarn more than weft yarn at least 60% weight select hollow rate between 25%~40%, the hollow nylon yarn of fiber number between 10~75 DENIER weave, form the grey cloth of coverage coefficient between 1500~2500, and then through comprising concise destarch, drying, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, HEAT SETTING and calendering after arrangement processing, get product, wherein liquid flowing dyeing or airflow dyeing processing are adopted in dyeing processing, and bath raio is 1: 1~30.
7. the production method of described frivolous crimped nylon fabric according to claim 6, it is characterized in that: described calendering temperature is 150~200 ℃, and pressure is 30~60 tons, and speed is 5~50m/min.
CN201110355386.4A 2011-10-25 2011-10-25 Light and thin wrinkle nylon fabric and production method thereof Pending CN103074721A (en)

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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103924411A (en) * 2014-04-16 2014-07-16 苏州棠华纳米科技有限公司 Environment-friendly processing technique of ultrathin high-gloss downproof chemical fiber fabric
CN105088488A (en) * 2015-09-25 2015-11-25 太仓市虹鹰印花有限公司 Wear-resistant thermal fabric for sleeping bag
CN106894155A (en) * 2015-12-17 2017-06-27 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of braid and preparation method thereof
CN110055768A (en) * 2019-05-09 2019-07-26 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 A kind of preparation method with naturally irregular texture fabric
CN112030318A (en) * 2020-08-31 2020-12-04 吴江福华织造有限公司 Nylon fabric and preparation method thereof
CN112195657A (en) * 2020-09-30 2021-01-08 康帝雅高档面料(苏州)有限公司 Bright wrinkling color-coated fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN114892322A (en) * 2022-05-10 2022-08-12 台华高新染整(嘉兴)有限公司 Nylon high-density bright wrinkle-forming cloth and preparation method thereof

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103924411A (en) * 2014-04-16 2014-07-16 苏州棠华纳米科技有限公司 Environment-friendly processing technique of ultrathin high-gloss downproof chemical fiber fabric
CN103924411B (en) * 2014-04-16 2015-11-18 苏州棠华纳米科技有限公司 The environment-friendly type processing technology of the ultra-thin anti-chiseling down chemical fiber plus material of a kind of high glaze
CN105088488A (en) * 2015-09-25 2015-11-25 太仓市虹鹰印花有限公司 Wear-resistant thermal fabric for sleeping bag
CN106894155A (en) * 2015-12-17 2017-06-27 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of braid and preparation method thereof
CN110055768A (en) * 2019-05-09 2019-07-26 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 A kind of preparation method with naturally irregular texture fabric
CN112030318A (en) * 2020-08-31 2020-12-04 吴江福华织造有限公司 Nylon fabric and preparation method thereof
CN112195657A (en) * 2020-09-30 2021-01-08 康帝雅高档面料(苏州)有限公司 Bright wrinkling color-coated fabric and manufacturing process thereof
CN114892322A (en) * 2022-05-10 2022-08-12 台华高新染整(嘉兴)有限公司 Nylon high-density bright wrinkle-forming cloth and preparation method thereof

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Application publication date: 20130501