The specific embodiment
The present invention is a kind of desensitization cosmetic composition, counts by weight percentage to comprise: cosmetic base 0.79 ~ 55%, and Chinese herbal medicine extract 0.21% ~ 45%, wherein Chinese herbal medicine extract comprises glucosan, flavanone and Aloe extract.Chinese herbal medicine extract is gentle to skin, zest is less, and their adding can better improve the attractive in appearance of skin.The preferred content of Chinese herbal medicine extract is 1.0 ~ 15%.
Preferably, glucosan is selected from Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan, is that structure is β-1,3 and β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glycosidic bond, extracts from Herba bromi japonici, for example Herba bromi japonici-the beta glucan of the fragrant company production of moral.The content of Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan in prescription is 0.01-1.0%, preferred 0.05-0.3%.Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan can promote wound healing, repairs impaired skin, gives to moisten smooth sense of touch as skin such as the silk, and excellent senile-resistant efficacy is arranged, and can smooth tiny wrinkle, improves skin elasticity, improves the skin texture degree; Have unique straight-chain molecular structure, given good transdermal inspiratory dyspnea and advanced the synthetic collagen protein of fibroblast.
Preferably, flavanone extracts from mentha leave, for example the Folium Menthae extract produced of French SILAB company.The content of flavanone in prescription is 0.1-0.95%, preferred 0.3-0.7%.Folium Menthae extract can delay short scorching courier's release because of the flavanone that is rich in its extract from mentha leave, promotes the generation of happy neuropeptide to reduce skin rubefaction and sharp sensation.
Described Aloe extract extracts from Folium Aloe, for example the Aloe extract of U.S. ALOECORP company production.The content of Aloe extract in prescription is 0.1-43.05%, preferred 0.5-15%, existing five, 6,000 years of the history that Aloe is worldwide used, Aloe is used for improving looks with a long history, effect is splendid, Aloe has anti-inflammation and sterilization, promotes the effect that wound healing, cell-activating, minimizing skin oil and fat and melanin are secreted that it mainly contains 99.5% moisture viscose glue and mucopolysaccharide and choline salicylate (its content in prescription is 0.1-30.55%)
Above Chinese herbal medicine meets 2005 editions standards of Pharmacopoeia of People's Republic of China.
Cosmetic base of the present invention is different and different according to skin-protection product, such as cleansing milk, cream frost, emulsion, facial film, aqua product (astringent, toner/smoothing toner, cosmetic water, nutritive water, the water of releiving) in each, according to various product routinely formulation ratio get final product.
Cosmetic base generally comprises very easily skin permeation emollient, emulsifying agent, thickening agent and wetting agent.Emollient can be selected from 16/octadecanol, PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated, soyasterol, plant sterol, dicaprylyl carbonate, sad propyl group heptyl ester, aloe, Jojoba oil, Oleum Helianthi, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, macadimia nut oil, Jojoba ester etc.Wetting agent can be selected from polyhydroxy-alcohol such as glycerol, 1.3-butanediol, sorbitol etc.: hyaluronic acid, its precursor and its derivant are such as the salt of glucamine and similar hyaluronic sodium and derivant thereof.Emulsifying agent is selected from glucosides class, esters.The glucosides class is selected from coco group glucoside, cetyl glucoside, eicosyl glucoside, C
12-20Alkyl androstanediol.Esters is selected from C
20-22Alkyl phosphate, tristerin, PEG-100 stearate, sucrose stearate.Thickening agent is selected from HANSHENGJIAO, tapioca, hydroxypropyl phosphate ester starch, acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid/sodium acrylate polymer, acrylate copolymer, acrylate/C
10-30Alkyl acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid/C
10-30The alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsifying agent, acrylic acid/acrylonitrile copolymer, acrylate/behenyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (25) ether metacrylic acid ester, acrylate/Brij-721 (20) methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/aminoacrylic acid ester copolymer, acrylic copolymer/white mineral oil/tridecyl polyoxypropylene (1) polyoxyethylene (6) polyethers, sodium acrylate copolymer/soybean oil/tridecyl polyoxypropylene (1)/polyoxyethylene (6) polyethers, sodium polyacrylate/octyl stearate/tridecyl polyoxyethylene (6) ether, the derivant of acrylamide, alkene/alkylene oxide polymer and other base polymers (such as acid-thickened dose of Sal care SC 92 ﹑ Sal care SC 95 ﹑ Sal careSC 96 series) one or more combinations wherein.
Desensitization of the present invention is made up in the product skin care compositions, except mentioned component, also can contain other used in compositions composition, such as deionized water, Fang Fu Ji ﹑ Ao He Ji ﹑ Xiang Liao ﹑ UV absorbent etc., does not do detailed description at this.For example antiseptic can be selected a kind of and two kinds and the two or more mixture of Nipagin ester series, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, polyhydric alcohol, iodo propinyl butyl carbamate, if but we select not contain preservative system, can be with 399870, the fragrant glycol 68T of 177441() 1,2 pentanediols (above all is the fragrant raw material of moral), concrete protective system challenge test result situation does not illustrate one by one at this.
Below further be described in more detail the present invention by the following example, but the present invention is not limited to this specific examples.If no special instructions, the ratio of each component is wt% in the example.
The prescription that the prescription of embodiment 1~5 and comparative example 6~8 sees Table 1, embodiment 9~13 and comparative example 14~16 sees Table 2.
The cosmetic composition that forms shown in manufacturing table 1, the table 2 is coated cosmetics, looks for experienced expert to smear their face with the dermal compositions that obtains like this, and according to following standard, from sensation estimate that it is antipruritic, zest, whole structure.
Evaluation methodology:
(1) antipruritic
◎: effect fine zero: effective
△: effect is general *: there is not effect
By 4 assistant directors 32 volunteers are tested tracking verification with each composition product.
(2) zest
Each compositions is estimated according to following ageing stability criterion.
◎: non-stimulated zero: point stimulation is arranged, but do not have red, itch
△: stimulation is arranged, have red, itch *: stimulate, red, swollen
By 4 assistant directors 32 volunteers are tested tracking verification with each composition product.
(3) whole structure
Each compositions is carried out the whole structure evaluation according to following standard.
◎: effect fine zero: effective
△: effect is general *: there is not effect
By 4 assistant directors 32 volunteers are carried out the bulk testing tracking verification with each composition product.
Table 1
Table 2
Prescription and the preparation method of embodiment 17 see Table 3
The prescription of embodiment 18 and preparation method
The embodiment 19(salubrious water of releiving)
Embodiment 20(Shu Xing lotion)
The desensitization cosmetics skin care compositions that obtains by embodiment 17~20 be from sensation estimate that it is antipruritic, zest, whole structure, evaluation result is " fine ".
Effect to Chinese herbal medicine extract describes from following four aspects:
One. on the impact of Microinflammation: in vitro study
On the impact of proinflammatory medium interleukin-1 alpha, interleukin 8, PGE2 and histamine release, such as Fig. 1.
1. measure 1L-1 α, 1L-8, PGE2 (ELISA method)
Model: cell culture
Cell: people's horn cell
Method: ELISA kit(enzyme-labeled immunosorbent assay (ELISA))
Actual conditions: 1)-inflammation that caused by UV
UVA?10J/cm2
UVB?0.15J/cm2
2)-inflammation that caused by PMA
Time: 0-24 hour
Product: Chinese herbal medicine extract (flavanone that extracts in Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan, the mentha leave and Aloe extract proportionally 1:1:10 mix) compositions, make mass percent 0.5%-1%-3% aqueous solution.
Sum up: after people's horn cell stood the UV irradiation, 3% desensitization Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions can reduce 1L-1 α, 1L-8, and the release of PGE2 reaches respectively 85%, 93%, 75%.The inflammation-inhibiting phenomenon occurs, and antiphlogistic effects depends on dosage.
2. the measuring principle of histamine
Purpose: measure the Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions and be suppressed at the ability that causes histamine release under neurotransmitter-Substance P (subst.p) existence condition.(such as Fig. 2)
Model: cell culture
Cell: Mus mastocyte
Method: ELISA kit(enzyme-labeled immunosorbent assay (ELISA))
Product: Chinese herbal medicine extract (flavanone that extracts in Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan, the mentha leave and Aloe extract proportionally 1:1:10 mix) compositions, make mass percent 1%-3%-5% aqueous solution.
Service time: 0-20 minute
Sum up: the mast cell cultures that obtains from rat peritoneum is for detection of the release of histamine the culture medium that is caused by neurotransmitter-Substance P (subst.p).Compare with Substance P, the release that 5% Chinese herbal medicine extract can reduce histamine reaches 60%.
Two, on producing the impact of β-Nei calf peptide (happy hormone)
1. the mensuration (such as Fig. 3) of β-Nei calf peptide
The research of human keratinized cell be used for measuring the Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions stimulate β-Nei the calf peptide generation and reduce skin pain and uncomfortable ability.Use 1% Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions after 24 hours or 48 hours, the generation that can significantly increase β-Nei calf peptide horn cell reaches 95% or 71%.
Purpose: assessment Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions promotes---the generation of endorphins
Model: cell culture
Cell: people's horn cell
Method: the ELISAkit(enzyme-labeled immunosorbent assay (ELISA))
Service time: 24 hours or 48 hours
Product: Chinese herbal medicine extract (flavanone that extracts in Herba bromi japonici-beta glucan, the mentha leave and Aloe extract proportionally 1:1:10 mix) compositions, make mass percent 1% aqueous solution.
Three. analgesic activity: human test
The mensuration of skin surface interleukin-1 alpha (such as Fig. 4)
Prescription by embodiment 18 is carried out the human test, measures the Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions to sensitive-skinned analgesic activity.
Emulsifying gel (twice of the correspondence that contains 3% Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions used in consumer tests (sensory testing) in one day, use after 5 days, with blank product contrast, the quantity that the emulsifying gel that contains 3% Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions can significantly reduce the interleukin-1 alpha of skin reaches 26%.
Four. twinge test (subjective evaluation)
Purpose: by the mitigation of twinge testing evaluation Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions to responsive skin.
Tester: 12 testers, age 26-52 year
Method: 1) use 10% lactic acid (LA) solution in nose pleat one side, saline solution (PLACEBO) is oozed in opposite side use etc.
2) choose 4 points, measured 30 minutes, use the digital representation sensitivity.
Product: the emulsion (doing test by the prescription of embodiment 17) that contains 5% Chinese herbal medicine extract
Time: 0-5 days
Such as Fig. 5, after 5 days pretreatment, use lactic acid (LA) solution at the muffle middle part, can reduce sensation of pricking 39% by the emulsion that contains 5% Chinese herbal medicine extract.87% volunteer has confirmed this effect.Skin is releived more, more can avoid stimulating cause sensitivity.
The perceptual evaluation of analgesic effect (such as Fig. 6)
Purpose: use self-questionnaire survey, assessment and quantification and blank contrast, the responsive case after the use Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions
Panel:129 people
Method: use contain must answer self-questionnaire survey
Product: the cream product (doing test by the prescription of embodiment 17) that contains 5% Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions
Use the position: face
Service condition: 4 interior one day of weeks used twice
Test arranges: 129 volunteers are divided into two groups, and group 1 is the Chinese herbal medicine extract compositions, and group 2 is blank.
The panel that forms 129 male carries out one month consumer tests, and half people uses the cream product that contains 5% Chinese herbal medicine extract, and second half people uses blank product.To quantizing with aftersensation of twice use composition for desensitizing every day.
Use in the male consumer of composition for desensitizing, 72% people uses product behind the palpus that contains composition for desensitizing, has approved its analgesic activity, and 64% people report has freshness.