CN103046385B - Manufacturing technique for machine washable slubbing pure wool fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing technique for machine washable slubbing pure wool fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN103046385B CN103046385B CN201210566156.7A CN201210566156A CN103046385B CN 103046385 B CN103046385 B CN 103046385B CN 201210566156 A CN201210566156 A CN 201210566156A CN 103046385 B CN103046385 B CN 103046385B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a manufacturing technique for a machine washable slubbing pure wool fabric, which further adopts protease processing procedures based on a traditional manufacturing technique for the slubbing wool fabric, including a raw material wool fiber protease processing procedure and a fabric protease processing procedure, wherein the raw material wool fiber protease processing procedure is before a fearnaught procedure and is of removing 30-50 percent of the overall amount of scales on the surface of the raw material wool fiber; the fabric protease processing procedure is after a felting shrinkage procedure and before a humidity detection procedure and is of moving the rest scales on the surface of the raw material wool fiber. Compared with the prior art, the pure wool fabric provided by the invention not only has a good and stable anti-felting effect, but also can be washed by a home washing machine, is good in hand feeling, and has a full felting face. Besides, the manufacturing technique is good in environmental protection, green and free from contamination.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production method of fabric, be specifically related to a kind of manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard, people are more and more higher to the needs of weaving face fabric.For a long time, wool spinning particularly pure wool textile fabric always in high-end fabric market in occupation of consequence.But because wool surface has a lot of scale structures, these scales move at bi-directional friction, especially, under humidity, high temperature and External Force Acting condition, very easily produce felting phenomenon.This can not wash pure wool textile fabric easily with water, especially can not machine-wash with washing machine, therefore limited to a great extent the marketing of pure wool textile product.
In order to improve the anti-felting ability of pure wool textile fabric, enterprise mainly adopts resin finishing method and chlorination processing method in producing at present.Wherein, resin finishing method is resin to be wrapped in to a kind of processing method of fiber surface, and the method can reduce the rubbing effect of fiber surface, also stoped the mutual movement between fiber simultaneously, but the fabric thickness after this method is processed increases, feel variation, and the method feature of environmental protection is poor.Another kind of conventional processing method, it is chlorination processing method, to pass through chloride, as the sym-closene being adopted in the application number Chinese patent literature that is CN102230264A, strip the scale of wool surface to reduce the rubbing effect and the felting that overcomes fabric of wool fibre, but the method easily makes fabric yellowing, make the color and luster of fabric become dim, and the method environmental pollution is serious.
In addition, Japan once proposed a kind of processing method that wool is adopted to ozone treatment felt proofing; When the method is utilized wool fibre and ozone contact can there is the feature of modification in wool fibre cortical layer, that is: pass through ozone treatment, the homogenization of each layer of structure trend of wool fibre, even in wetting state, wool fibre is also evenly to expand, therefore its scale is no longer holded up generation bi-directional friction, thereby overcome the felting phenomenon of wool fabric.When but although the ozone that this method adopts is a small amount of, can purify air, whether workers with long time exposes has no problem it be unclear that.In addition, grant number is the processing method that the Chinese patent literature of CN101130912B discloses a kind of machine washable wool shirt fabric, the method is except adding the auxiliary agents such as a small amount of antistatic additive, utilize and repeatedly to count the dyeing of mode piece dyeings, multiple decatizing shapes to overcome fabric felting, but the method has also related to the use of antistatic auxiliary agent etc.; Use the shortcoming of this type of antistatic auxiliary agent to be: fabric is after cyclic washing, and antistatic additive can reduce gradually in fabric surface attachment amount, and the anti-felting property of fabric also can reduce gradually.In addition, the < < wool spinning science and technology > > of the 8th phase in 2007 discloses a kind of Machine Washable wool fancy suiting that adopts protease method exploitation, its technique relating to is for adopting protease to process the ripe material below of repairing as muriatic substitute materials, the not only good environmental protection of technique, and protease also can play the effect of peeling off wool surface scale as chloride; But, although fabric color is bright-coloured after this method processing, feel is smooth, and drapability is good, and because protease molecule is larger, the wool surface that is difficult to infiltrate into fabric inside is completely to remove scale completely, therefore its shrinkproof improvement is limited.On the contrary, my company finds: if with hair before remove the whole scale of wool surface completely, when rear arrangements, be difficult to realize the plentiful effect of woollen goods by fulling, and fabric feel is coarse, owe softness.
Therefore, be necessary to study the manufacturing technique of the slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric that a kind of feature of environmental protection is good, the pure wool fabric that adopts this technique to manufacture, the pure wool fabric of slubbing particularly, not only anti-felting effect is excellent and stable, Machine Washable, and fabric good hand touch and face plentiful.
Summary of the invention
The technical issues that need to address of the present invention are to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of manufacturing technique that is applicable to machine-washable slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric is provided, this technique feature of environmental protection is good, and not only anti-felting effect is excellent and stable to adopt the pure wool fabric that this technique manufactures, fabric Machine Washable, and fabric good hand touch, face is plentiful.
The technical issues that need to address of the present invention are achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric, its technological process is: raw material wool fibre selects → and hair → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → in the lump → bis-also → spinning → warping → sizing → looming → weave grey cloth → base inspection → life repaiies → binds off → braying → fulling → soften → tentering oven dry → ripe repairing → decatizing → finished product inspection → packaging and warehousing of inspection → braying → piece dyeing → setting-out wets, and in this technological process, also comprise Protease Treatment operation, this Protease Treatment operation comprises the Protease Treatment operation of raw material wool fibre and the Protease Treatment operation of fabric.
Preferred technical scheme can be: the Protease Treatment operation of described raw material wool fibre is before described wool blending step, described raw material wool fibre is removed to the scale of described raw material wool surface 30 ~ 50% quantity by Protease Treatment; The Protease Treatment operation of described fabric is after described fulling operation and before described wet inspection operation, and described fabric is removed to described remaining scale of raw material wool surface by Protease Treatment.
Further preferred technical scheme can be: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of protease is 0.3 ~ 0.5% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:20 ~ 1:45, and pH value is 7.5 ~ 9, and temperature is 50 ~ 55 ℃; After described Protease Treatment operation finishes, emptying again heating water adjust pH to 3 ~ 5, with inactivated proteases, is incubated after 5-10 minute, and flushing is dried, and obtains raw material wool fibre after Protease Treatment or the fabric after Protease Treatment.Here, protease spins CTA-B protease in can adopting.
Further preferred technical scheme can be: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of described protease is 0.3% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:20, and pH value is 7.5 ~ 7.8, and temperature is 50 ℃; Wherein, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 8 ~ 15 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 15 ~ 22 minutes.
Further preferred technical scheme can also be: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of described protease is 0.5% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:45, and pH value is 8 ~ 9, and temperature is 55 ℃; Wherein, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 36 ~ 60 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 60 ~ 84 minutes.
Further preferred technical side can be: the average diameter of described raw material wool fibre is 15 ~ 25 μ m, and average length is 65 ~ 115 millimeters.Here, raw material wool fibre can be australian merino wool fiber.
Further preferred technical scheme can be: described fabric is made into by warp thread and weft yarn, has one side plain weave construction.
Compared with prior art, advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect are: the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric of the present invention adopts 100% australian merino wool, wool is first removed to the scale of wool surface 30 ~ 50% through Protease Treatment, after fulling operation in rear arrangement, adopt again Protease Treatment to remove remaining scale of wool surface, obtain removing completely the fabric of scale; This technology has overcome after first pure wool fibre being made into fabric and has adopted the no thoroughness of this method of Protease Treatment in the sheet effect of scaling again, and has also overcome and first pure wool fibre has been made into the poor shortcoming of fabric feeling of this method gained of fabric by Protease Treatment again; The fabric obtaining by this technique not only anti-felting effect is excellent lasting, and fabric can resistance toly be machine-washed repeatedly, and fabric richness is high and soft; In addition, the method environmental protection, pollution-free.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the process flow diagram that slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric of the present invention is manufactured;
Fig. 2 is the structural representation of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the specific embodiment of the present invention is described further.Following examples are only for technical scheme of the present invention is more clearly described, and can not limit the scope of the invention with this.
Embodiment 1
The manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric of the present invention, as shown in Figure 1, its technological process is: the Protease Treatment of raw material wool fibre selection → raw material wool fibre → and hair → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → in the lump → bis-also → spinning → warping → sizing → looming → weave grey cloth → base inspection → raw repaiies → binds off → Protease Treatment → wet soften → tentering oven dry → ripe repairing → decatizing → finished product inspection → packaging and warehousing of inspection → braying → piece dyeing → setting-out of braying → fulling → fabric.
In above-mentioned technological process, comprised Protease Treatment operation, the Protease Treatment operation here comprises the Protease Treatment operation of raw material wool fibre and the Protease Treatment operation of fabric.Wherein, the Protease Treatment operation of raw material wool fibre is before wool blending step, raw material wool fibre is removed to the scale of raw material wool surface 30 ~ 50% quantity by Protease Treatment; And the Protease Treatment operation of fabric is after fulling operation and before wet inspection operation, fabric is removed to remaining scale of raw material wool surface by Protease Treatment.Here, raw material wool fibre can be Australian sub-Merino wool fibre, and its average diameter is 15 ~ 25 μ m, and average length is 65 ~ 115 millimeters; Fabric is made into by warp thread and weft yarn, has one side plain weave construction, as shown in Figure 2.
In Protease Treatment operation, in employing, spin CTA-B protease, the consumption of CTA-B protease is 0.3 ~ 0.5% of raw material wool fibre or fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:20 ~ 1:45, temperature is 50 ~ 55 ℃, and with sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate, pH is adjusted to 7.5 ~ 9; After described Protease Treatment operation finishes, emptying again heating water with formic acid or acetic acid regulator solution pH value to 3 ~ 5 with inactivated proteases, be incubated after 5-10 minute, with drying after 60 ℃ of hot water injections, obtain raw material wool fibre after Protease Treatment or the fabric after Protease Treatment.
Embodiment 2
On the basis of embodiment 1, the preferred embodiment of the invention can be: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of CTA-B protease is 0.3% of raw material wool fibre or fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:20, and pH value is 7.5 ~ 7.8, and temperature is 50 ℃.
In addition, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 8 ~ 15 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 15 ~ 22 minutes.
Embodiment 3
On the basis of embodiment 1, the preferred embodiment of the invention can be: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of CTA-B protease is 0.5% of raw material wool fibre or fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:45, and pH value is 8 ~ 9, and temperature is 55 ℃.
In addition, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 36 ~ 60 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 60 ~ 84 minutes.
Above-mentioned each embodiment is further illustrating that foregoing of the present invention is made, but the scope that should not be construed as the above-mentioned theme of the present invention only limits to above-described embodiment.It should be pointed out that for those skilled in the art, not departing under the prerequisite of the technology of the present invention principle, can also make some improvements and modifications, these improvements and modifications also should be considered as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. the manufacturing technique of a slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric, its technological process is: raw material wool fibre selects → and hair → comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning → in the lump → bis-also → spinning → warping → sizing → looming → weave grey cloth → base inspection → life repaiies → binds off → braying → fulling → soften → tentering oven dry → ripe repairing → decatizing → finished product inspection → packaging and warehousing of inspection → braying → piece dyeing → setting-out wets, it is characterized in that: in this technological process, also comprise Protease Treatment operation, described Protease Treatment operation comprises the Protease Treatment operation of raw material wool fibre and the Protease Treatment operation of fabric, the Protease Treatment operation of described raw material wool fibre is before described wool blending step, described raw material wool fibre is removed to the scale of described raw material wool surface 30 ~ 50% quantity by Protease Treatment, the Protease Treatment operation of described fabric is after described fulling operation and before described wet inspection operation, and described fabric is removed to described remaining scale of raw material wool surface by Protease Treatment.
2. the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of protease is 0.3 ~ 0.5% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality; bath raio is 1:20 ~ 1:45; pH value is 7.5 ~ 9, and temperature is 50 ~ 55 ℃; After described Protease Treatment operation finishes, emptying again heating water adjust pH to 3 ~ 5, with inactivated proteases, is incubated after 5-10 minute, and flushing is dried, and obtains raw material wool fibre after Protease Treatment or the fabric after Protease Treatment.
3. the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric as claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of described protease is 0.3% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:20, pH value is 7.5 ~ 7.8, and temperature is 50 ℃; Wherein, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 8 ~ 15 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 15 ~ 22 minutes.
4. the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric as claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: in described Protease Treatment operation, the consumption of described protease is 0.5% of described raw material wool fibre or described fabric quality, and bath raio is 1:45, pH value is 8 ~ 9, and temperature is 55 ℃; Wherein, the time of the Protease Treatment of described raw material wool fibre is 36 ~ 60 minutes, and the time of the Protease Treatment of described fabric is 60 ~ 84 minutes.
5. the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: the average diameter of described raw material wool fibre is 15 ~ 25 μ m, and average length is 65 ~ 115 millimeters.
6. the manufacturing technique of slubbing machine-washable pure wool fabric as claimed in claim 5, is characterized in that: described fabric is made into by warp thread and weft yarn, has one side plain weave construction.
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CN103243508B (en) * | 2013-04-25 | 2015-03-04 | 嘉兴汇顺纺织染整有限公司 | After-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets |
CN103526401B (en) * | 2013-10-18 | 2015-01-14 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Tasmania wool machine washable fabric and production method thereof |
CN110777466B (en) * | 2019-09-24 | 2021-09-14 | 江阴兴吴呢绒科技有限公司 | Manufacturing method of graphene wool fabric and obtained fabric |
CN111155222A (en) * | 2019-12-27 | 2020-05-15 | 杭州圣玛特毛绒有限公司 | Production method of pure wool fabric |
CN111850773A (en) * | 2020-08-13 | 2020-10-30 | 嘉兴市华盛达时装股份有限公司 | Machine-washable wool fabric processing technology |
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DE60225850T2 (en) * | 2002-05-21 | 2009-02-05 | Universidade Do Minho | TREATMENT OF ANIMAL HAIR FIBERS WITH MODIFIED PROTEASES |
JP2008240238A (en) * | 2008-05-29 | 2008-10-09 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Method for producing wool fibrous structure excellent in feeling |
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CN1664180A (en) * | 2004-03-05 | 2005-09-07 | 缪长春 | Machine washable snow-velvet and its preparation process |
CN101418519A (en) * | 2008-12-11 | 2009-04-29 | 绍兴文理学院 | Method for producing sheep and rabbit hair combing elastic fabric |
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