CN102797104A - Processing method of Sorona and silk clothes fabric - Google Patents
Processing method of Sorona and silk clothes fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN102797104A CN102797104A CN2012102720188A CN201210272018A CN102797104A CN 102797104 A CN102797104 A CN 102797104A CN 2012102720188 A CN2012102720188 A CN 2012102720188A CN 201210272018 A CN201210272018 A CN 201210272018A CN 102797104 A CN102797104 A CN 102797104A
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Abstract
The invention provides a processing method of a Sorona and silk clothes fabric, relating to a processing method of a knitting fabric. The method comprises the following steps of: selecting raw materials; splicing threads; weaving to obtain a gray fabric; washing with water; sizing a finished product; and decating. The characteristics of ecological environmental protection, excellent rebound elasticity and the like of Sorona are fully utilized, and excellent moisture absorption, air permeability and chromatophilia of adhesives and smooth hand feel of mulberry silk are combined, so that the fabric has the advantages of functionality, environmental protection and high grade. A knitting fabric rather than a woven fabric is obtained by processing.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of processing method of knit fabric, especially relate to the processing method of a kind of Sorona and real silk garment material.
Background technology
Improving constantly of Along with people's living standard; The consumer is also increasingly high to the requirement of clothes; Not only require the visual effect of clothes good; And require dress also comfortable (as feel is gentle, elasticity is moderate, sucting wet air permeability good), even also become for the environmental protection notion of dress-goods and more and more to pay close attention to.
The Sorona polymer of du pont company has 37% raw material to come from non-oil renewable resource; This will reduce people greatly to the dependence of limited petroleum resources and reduce by 30% energy resource consumption and 63% carbon dioxide discharging, make relevant textile product reach the perfect adaptation of function and environmental protection.
Because mulberry silk is polluted from planting mulberry and breeding silkworm to filature is knitted the production process of silk fabric, therefore be the green product that praise highly in the world.Again because of it is a protein fibre, genus polyporus property material, good permeability, hygroscopicity is splendid, and is described as " fiber queen " by common people, but mulberry silk also has very big shortcoming, and not only processing cost is higher, and the maintenance of mulberry silk clothes and wash ratio difficulty.
In cellulose fibre, the dyeability of viscose is best, is easy to dyeing simultaneously, and the cost that prints and dye is also lower.Viscose also has weak point aspect printing and dyeing, but like it and the same extensive use REACTIVE DYES of cellulose fibre such as cotton.Though REACTIVE DYES can replace some harmful chemical dyes, the band look sewage that it forms in dyeing process is many.In addition, viscose is at COLOR FASTNESS and too late some synthetic fiber of sun-proof aspect of performance of some printing and dyeing.Though this is relevant with dyestuff performance and technical process, the moisture percentage of viscose meets the physiological requirement of human body skin most, its smooth nice and cool, ventilative, antistatic, chromatophilia, characteristic still can yet be regarded as a big advantage such as chromatogram is complete, bright in colour, cost is low.
Though blending, the interweaving type lining product relevant with the Sorona fiber are many; And domestic multinomial relevant utility model patent arranged also; But the related product overwhelming majority is tatting series products (like the long filament interweaving type product of cotton with tatting blended fibre knitwears product, terylene and the Sorona fiber of Sorona fiber) in these utility model patents; Knitting weft-knitted series products is not a lot; And utilize Sorona long filament, mulberry silk, these 3 kinds of raw materials of viscose filament yarn to piece together line, yarn dyeing, knit fabric that a series of flow processs produce and dress-goods such as weave and have as the silk along sliding feel, bright-coloured color and luster, good moisture absorption and gas permeability, comfortable tensile elasticity and recovery characteristic, good pollution resistance and easy-care properties; Compare with pure mulberry silk product of the same type, wearability difference is little, but cost can be saved more than 60%.
Chinese patent CN1603511 discloses a kind of knit fabric processing method and purposes with ecological antibacterial air permeable humidity retaining function.Comprise following processing step: grey cloth; Bleaching or dyeing; Pad or spray or flood knit fabric with the chitosan finishing agent; Drying and shaping; Get finished product.Compared with prior art, can make dependable performances such as knit fabric is antibacterial, antiviral, mildew-resistant, deodorizing, stable, lasting, have wide application, characteristics such as biologically active height, small investment, pollution-free, can be applicable to big suitability for industrialized production.
Chinese patent CN101550656 discloses a kind of processing method of soft and smooth knitted fabric; Comprise following procedure of processing: weave, refining and bleaching, bioenzyme washing, dyeing, soft excessively, dehydration, open-width, oven dry, typing, preshrunk; Between bioenzyme washing and dyeing process, add the liquid ammonia mercerization operation; Make the whole machining process steps in sequence be: to weave, refining and bleaching, bioenzyme washing, liquid ammonia mercerization, dyeing, soft excessively, dehydration, open-width, oven dry, typing, preshrunk; In described liquid ammonia mercerization operation; Knitted cloth is advanced cloth in the sealing liquid ammonia mercerizer with the speed open width of 10-60 rice/min, and the Tension Control of advancing cloth is at 25 Ns to 350 Ns, and when advancing cloth to knitted cloth broadwise expanding; Cotton textiles of producing through this processing method and blended knitted fabric thereof have that soft, the soft ironing-free performance smooth, lining of gloss is excellent, dimensionally stable and advantages such as resilience is good, the bright and clean smooth no pilling of cloth cover, and have reduced in the production process pollution for environment.
Chinese patent CN101748606A discloses a kind of processing method of water-repelling ventilating cellulose fiber knitted fabric, and characteristics are that its whole technical process is: cloth base → wash water, dehydration → hydrophilic finish → dehydration, oven dry → WATER REPELLENCY arrangement → twice wash water → dehydration, oven dry → calendering → typing → finished product; Advantage is that this processing and treating method is simple, and makes lining after the processing have good front to refuse water, the hydrophilic function of reverse side, thereby makes lining have the dry and comfortable premium properties such as comfortable of ventilation and perspiration function, dress, and finishing effect is lasting, and washing resistance is good; In addition, before the typing of cloth base, earlier the cloth base is carried out calendering, improved the gloss and the feel of lining.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide the processing method of a kind of Sorona and real silk garment material.
The present invention includes following steps:
1) selects raw material: the Sorona long filament of the mulberry silk of 16D, the viscose filament yarn of 75D and 45D;
2) piece together line: the Sorona long filament of the viscose filament yarn of the mulberry silk of 16D, 75D and 45D earlier through carrying out behind the double twisting separately again and closing, is formed compound silk behind the double twisting again;
3) two-bath process bobbin high-temp dyeing (promptly with DISPERSE DYES Sorona is painted earlier, and then with REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are painted) is carried out in the compound silk pre-treatment that chromatic thread: earlier with step 2) obtains then;
4) weave, get grey cloth;
5) washing: the grey cloth to step 4) obtains is washed, and removes the contaminant weave in the process add, must wash grey cloth afterwards;
6) finished product typing: grey cloth carries out the finished product typing after the washing that step 5) is obtained;
7) decatizing: the typing finished product that step 6) is obtained carries out decatizing; Its concrete steps are: under the decatizing pressure of 150 ℃ decatizing temperature and 3.8kg; The typing finished product is carried out the static decatizing of 6～7min; Carry out again after the dehumidifier at vacuumize state held 6～7min, Sorona, mulberry silk, viscose glue knit fabric.
In step 2) in, said double twisting can adopt the NO363 type two-for-one twister double twisting of Japanese MUTARA company, and is said and close the NO23 type high speed doubling frame that can adopt Japanese MUTARA company and close.
In step 3), said compound silk pre-treatment comprises deoils and refining to compound silk, and concrete grammar is following: add bleeding agent earlier, divide 2～3 times again and add soda ash and hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate, be warming up to 60 ℃ then, divide 2 times and add hydrogen peroxide solution (H
2O
2), adding detergent, the heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min behind the insulation 5min is warming up to 80～90 ℃, reduces to 80 ℃ of washings with the rate of temperature fall of 2 ℃/min behind the insulation 30min and gets final product; Said bleeding agent is JFC, and concentration can be 1～3g/L, and the concentration of said soda ash can be 0～5g/L, and said detergent spins the FK-9508 of chemical industry in being, concentration can be 1～5g/L, and the concentration of said hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate can be 1～10g/L, said H
2O
2Concentration can be 1～10g/L.
The concrete grammar of said two-bath process bobbin high-temp dyeing is following:
(1) with DISPERSE DYES the Sorona long filament is painted; Concrete steps are following: under 40 ℃ of conditions, add glacial acetic acid earlier; Add the dispersion levelling agent again, add dyestuff after stirring, the heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃ then; Speed with 1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, insulation 30～45min; Reduce to the room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min; Be warming up to 40 ℃ and add soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite, be warming up to 65 ℃ with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, insulation 20min reduces to twice of room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min at last;
Process conditions: pH:5～7, bath raio: 1: 20;
Dyeing recipe: dyestuff: disperse levelling agent: 2～10g/L, glacial acetic acid: regulate pH to 5～7;
Reduction cleaning prescription: sodium hydrosulfite: 2～5g/L, soda ash: 1～5g/L;
(2) with REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are painted; Concrete steps are following: in the time of 40 ℃, add levelling agent and bleeding agent; Mix the back and add dyestuff, divide 2 times at last and add salt, be warming up to 70 ℃ with the heating rate of 1.5 ℃/min; Add soda ash fixation 30～40min behind insulation 30～40min, reduce to room temperature washing 2 times with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min then; Add soap flakes (detergent) at last, be warming up to 90～95 ℃ of soap boiling 5～20min, wash twice.
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20;
Technical recipe: dyestuff: levelling agent: 2～10g/L, bleeding agent: 0～3g/L, salt: 5～50g/L, soda ash: 5～20g/L, detergent: 1～2g/L;
In step 4), the said single face jacquard circular knitting machine (model: S3P172) weave that can adopt German De Le company of weaving; Said woven concrete technological parameter:
Plane No.: 864mm (34 ")
Pin number: 30G
Way: 72F
Rotating speed: 9r/min;
In step 5), the process conditions of said washing and the prescription as follows:
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20; Temperature: 60 ℃, the time: 40min;
Prescription: scouring agent: 2～10g/L, smooth agent: 1～10g/L;
In step 6), the grey cloth of the setting machine that the typing of said finished product can be adopted German Monforts company after to washing finalized the design; The technological parameter of said finished product typing is following:
Setting temperature: 150 ℃; Setting machine speed: 18 yards/min;
In step 7), said decatizing can be adopted homemade third generation HTHP (jar steaming) decator.
The present invention makes full use of the ecological, environmental protective of Sorona, good characteristics such as resilience, and combines the suitable sliding feel of the good sucting wet air permeability of viscose glue, chromatophilia, mulberry silk, makes lining possess triple notions of function, environmental protection, top grade.
In addition, what the present invention's processing obtained is knit fabric, is not shuttle-woven fabric.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is for to carry out the coloring process curve map with DISPERSE DYES to the Sorona long filament.
Fig. 2 is for to carry out the coloring process curve map with REACTIVE DYES to viscose glue and mulberry silk.
Fig. 3 is the single face figured pattern.
The specific embodiment
The embodiment of the invention may further comprise the steps:
1) selects raw material: the Sorona long filament of the mulberry silk of 16D, the viscose filament yarn of 75D and 45D.
Sorona is the fiber name of du pont company research and development post-registration, is the English name of global general-use; 16D is exactly 16 DENIERs, and the fineness of expression yarn is the general title of textile limit; 45D is meant the yarn (can be added by 48 superfine fibre long filaments and be twisted into) of one 45D;
2) piece together line: the Sorona long filament of the viscose filament yarn of the mulberry silk of 16D, 75D and 45D earlier through carrying out behind the double twisting separately again and closing, is formed compound silk behind the double twisting again; Said double twisting can adopt the NO363 type two-for-one twister double twisting of Japanese MUTARA company, and is said and close the NO23 type high speed doubling frame that can adopt Japanese MUTARA company and close.
3) two-bath process bobbin high-temp dyeing (promptly with DISPERSE DYES Sorona is painted earlier, and then with REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are painted) is carried out in the compound silk pre-treatment that chromatic thread: earlier with step 2) obtains then.Said compound silk pre-treatment comprises deoils and refining to compound silk, and concrete grammar is following:
Add bleeding agent earlier, divide 2～3 times again and add soda ash and hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate, be warming up to 60 ℃ then, divide 2 times and add hydrogen peroxide solution (H
2O
2), adding detergent, the heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min behind the insulation 5min is warming up to 80～90 ℃, reduces to 80 ℃ of washings with the rate of temperature fall of 2 ℃/min behind the insulation 30min and gets final product; Said bleeding agent is JFC, and concentration can be 1～3g/L, and the concentration of said soda ash can be 0～5g/L, and said detergent spins the FK-9508 of chemical industry in being, concentration can be 1～5g/L, and the concentration of said hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate can be 1～10g/L, said H
2O
2Concentration can be 1～10g/L.
The concrete grammar of said two-bath process bobbin high-temp dyeing is following:
(1) with DISPERSE DYES the Sorona long filament is painted; Concrete steps are following: under 40 ℃ of conditions, add glacial acetic acid earlier; Add the dispersion levelling agent again, add dyestuff after stirring, the heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃ then; Speed with 1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, insulation 30～45min; Reduce to the room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min; Be warming up to 40 ℃ and add soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite, be warming up to 65 ℃ with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, insulation 20min reduces to twice of room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min at last;
Process conditions: pH:5～7, bath raio: 1: 20;
Dyeing recipe: dyestuff: disperse levelling agent: 2～10g/L, glacial acetic acid: regulate pH to 5～7;
Reduction cleaning prescription: sodium hydrosulfite: 2～5g/L, soda ash: 1～5g/L;
With DISPERSE DYES the Sorona long filament is carried out the coloring process curve map referring to Fig. 1.
(2) with REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are painted; Concrete steps are following: in the time of 40 ℃, add levelling agent and bleeding agent; Mix the back and add dyestuff, divide 2 times at last and add salt, be warming up to 70 ℃ with the heating rate of 1.5 ℃/min; Add soda ash fixation 30～40min behind insulation 30～40min, reduce to room temperature washing 2 times with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min then; Add soap flakes (detergent) at last, be warming up to 90～95 ℃ of soap boiling 5～20min, wash twice.
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20;
Technical recipe: dyestuff: levelling agent: 2～10g/L, bleeding agent: 0～3g/L, salt: 5～50g/L, soda ash: 5～20g/L, detergent: 1～2g/L;
With REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are carried out the coloring process curve map referring to Fig. 2.
4) weave, get grey cloth; The said single face jacquard circular knitting machine (model: S3P172) weave that can adopt German De Le company of weaving; Said woven concrete technological parameter:
Plane No.: 864mm (34 ")
Pin number: 30G
Way: 72F
Rotating speed: 9r/min;
5) washing: the grey cloth to step 4) obtains is washed, and removes the contaminant weave in the process add, must wash grey cloth afterwards; The process conditions of said washing and the prescription as follows:
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20; Temperature: 60 ℃, the time: 40min;
Prescription: scouring agent: 2～10g/L, smooth agent: 1～10g/L;
6) finished product typing: grey cloth carries out the finished product typing after the washing that step 5) is obtained; The grey cloth of the setting machine that the typing of said finished product can be adopted German Monforts company after to washing finalized the design; The technological parameter of said finished product typing is following:
Setting temperature: 150 ℃; Setting machine speed: 18 yards/min;
7) decatizing: the typing finished product that step 6) is obtained carries out decatizing; Its concrete steps are: under the decatizing pressure of 150 ℃ decatizing temperature and 3.8kg; The typing finished product is carried out the static decatizing of 6～7min; Carry out again after the dehumidifier at vacuumize state held 6～7min, Sorona, mulberry silk, viscose glue knit fabric.Said decatizing can be adopted homemade third generation HTHP (jar steaming) decator.
The single face figured pattern is referring to Fig. 3.
In selection, spinning, dyeing and back arrangement process, note following problem:
1) will repeatedly carry out effective proportioning to Sorona long filament, mulberry silk and viscose filament yarn in the dyed yarn, thereby the performance of guaranteeing final finished reaches optimization.
2) 3 kinds of raw material carry out behind the double twisting separately again and close and twist, and this is a kind of new notion, notes the control to two-for-one twister, twisting mill tension force, prevents the appearance of weak twist, heavy twist, non-twist situation.
3) want strict control well the consumption of levelling agent, dyestuff, detergent and temperature, the speed of each link in the dyeing course, otherwise cause 3 kinds of stock-dye effects inconsistent easily, influence the color and luster of fabric.
4) want the strict process conditions of controlling typing and decatizing, assurance is powerful not to receive excessive damage, guarantees the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of fabric.
Claims (7)
1. the processing method of Sorona and real silk garment material is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
1) selects raw material: the Sorona long filament of the mulberry silk of 16D, the viscose filament yarn of 75D and 45D;
2) piece together line: the Sorona long filament of the viscose filament yarn of the mulberry silk of 16D, 75D and 45D earlier through carrying out behind the double twisting separately again and closing, is formed compound silk behind the double twisting again;
3) high-temp dyeing of two-bath process bobbin is carried out in the compound silk pre-treatment that chromatic thread: earlier with step 2) obtains then;
4) weave, get grey cloth;
5) washing: the grey cloth to step 4) obtains is washed, and removes the contaminant weave in the process add, must wash grey cloth afterwards;
6) finished product typing: grey cloth carries out the finished product typing after the washing that step 5) is obtained;
7) decatizing: the typing finished product that step 6) is obtained carries out decatizing; Its concrete steps are: under the decatizing pressure of 150 ℃ decatizing temperature and 3.8kg; The typing finished product is carried out the static decatizing of 6～7min; Carry out again after the dehumidifier at vacuumize state held 6～7min, Sorona, mulberry silk, viscose glue knit fabric.
2. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 2) in, said double twisting adopts the two-for-one twister double twisting, and is said and close and adopt doubling frame and close.
3. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 3), and said compound silk pre-treatment comprises deoils and refining to compound silk, and concrete grammar is following:
Add bleeding agent earlier; Divide 2～3 times again and add soda ash and hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate; Be warming up to 60 ℃ then, divide 2 times and add hydrogen peroxide solution, add detergent; Heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min behind the insulation 5min is warming up to 80～90 ℃, reduces to 80 ℃ of washings with the rate of temperature fall of 2 ℃/min behind the insulation 30min and gets final product; Said bleeding agent is JFC, and concentration can be 1～3g/L, and the concentration of said soda ash is 0～5g/L, and the concentration of said detergent is 1～5g/L, and the concentration of said hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer sodium metasilicate is 1～10g/L, said H
2O
2Concentration be 1～10g/L.
4. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 3), and the concrete grammar of said two-bath process bobbin high-temp dyeing is following:
(1) with DISPERSE DYES the Sorona long filament is painted; Concrete steps are following: under 40 ℃ of conditions, add glacial acetic acid earlier; Add the dispersion levelling agent again, add dyestuff after stirring, the heating rate with 1.5 ℃/min is warming up to 60 ℃ then; Speed with 1 ℃/min is warming up to 110 ℃ again, insulation 30～45min; Reduce to the room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min; Be warming up to 40 ℃ and add soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite, be warming up to 65 ℃ with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min, insulation 20min reduces to twice of room temperature washing with the speed of 2 ℃/min at last;
Process conditions: pH:5～7, bath raio: 1: 20;
Dyeing recipe: dyestuff: disperse levelling agent: 2～10g/L, glacial acetic acid: regulate pH to 5～7;
Reduction cleaning prescription: sodium hydrosulfite: 2～5g/L, soda ash: 1～5g/L;
(2) with REACTIVE DYES viscose glue and mulberry silk are painted; Concrete steps are following: in the time of 40 ℃, add levelling agent and bleeding agent; Mix the back and add dyestuff, divide 2 times at last and add salt, be warming up to 70 ℃ with the heating rate of 1.5 ℃/min; Add soda ash fixation 30～40min behind insulation 30～40min, reduce to room temperature washing 2 times with the speed of 1.5 ℃/min then; Add soap flakes (detergent) at last, be warming up to 90～95 ℃ of soap boiling 5～20min, wash twice;
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20;
Technical recipe: dyestuff: levelling agent: 2～10g/L, bleeding agent: 0～3g/L, salt: 5～50g/L, soda ash: 5～20g/L, detergent: 1～2g/L.
5. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 4), said woven concrete technological parameter:
Plane No.: 864mm (34 ")
Pin number: 30G
Way: 72F
Rotating speed: 9r/min.
6. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 5), the process conditions of said washing and the prescription as follows:
Process conditions: bath raio: 1: 20; Temperature: 60 ℃, the time: 40min;
Prescription: scouring agent: 2～10g/L, smooth agent: 1～10g/L.
7. the processing method of a kind of Sorona as claimed in claim 1 and real silk garment material is characterized in that in step 6), and the technological parameter of said finished product typing is following:
Setting temperature: 150 ℃; Setting machine speed: 18 yards/min.
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| CN112725995A (en) * | 2020-12-15 | 2021-04-30 | 恩平锦兴纺织印染企业有限公司 | Spanderless high-elastic glossy non-inverted velvet knitted fabric and production process thereof |
| CN112647316A (en) * | 2020-12-21 | 2021-04-13 | 吴江德伊时装面料有限公司 | Sorona fabric dyeing process and sorona fabric |
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