CN102534939A - Silk-like fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Silk-like fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102534939A CN102534939A CN2010106035985A CN201010603598A CN102534939A CN 102534939 A CN102534939 A CN 102534939A CN 2010106035985 A CN2010106035985 A CN 2010106035985A CN 201010603598 A CN201010603598 A CN 201010603598A CN 102534939 A CN102534939 A CN 102534939A
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Abstract
The invention discloses silk-like fabric and a production method thereof. Weft and warp yarns of the fabric are twisted differential shrinkage composite yarns with a core-sheath structure; core yarns of the differential shrinkage composite yarns are polyethylene glycol terephthalate fully-drawn yarns, and sheath yarns are polyethylene glycol terephthalate pre-drawn yarns; and the filament length difference of the differential shrinkage composite yarns is over 18 percent, and the interlacing number is 5 to 25 yarns/meter; and the porosity of the fabric is 20 to 40 percent. The silk-like fabric has the performance of silk fabric, and has the characteristics of high softness, natural hanging feel and fluffy feel, and the like.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of silk-like fabric and production method thereof.
Background technology
Along with present people the improving constantly that dress requires of living, the fabric panel that simple single polyester filament is main design can not adapt to the market that changes day by day, the requirement of satisfying people's dress.The silk-like fabric twist that has on the market now is lower, lining is thicker, so that fabric feeling is hard, pliability is not enough, with real silk fabric a certain distance is arranged still, so emulation silk effect performance is poor.
Like Chinese notification number CN201411528Y; This utility model relates to a kind of wing yarn woven fabric; Warp thread and weft yarn all are to adopt the fine denier lustrous polyester filament of the twist greater than 3000T/M, and the single sum dawn number of described warp thread and weft yarn is smaller or equal to 30D, and weave is a plain weave; With the section warping alternately of 2S2Z, beat up with the arrangement of 2S2Z.Though the utility model has remedied the problem that the silk-like fabric yarn is thick, the twist is lower, feel is relatively poor of prior art; But owing to add the very strong twist and form the fineness of monofilament of this fabric very thin; So certain degree of difficulty is arranged in weaving process, the fabric face that makes is covered with uniform wrinkle.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of silk-like fabric and production method thereof that the real silk fabric performance promptly has good pliability, vertical naturally sense, fluffy sense that have.
Technical solution of the present invention is:
Silk-like fabric of the present invention, this fabric all adopts the different contraction complex yarn through the core sheath structure of twisting through weft yarn; The heart yarn of this different contraction complex yarn is that PETG full-drawn yarn, sheath yarn are PETG preliminary draft silk; This different contraction complex yarn filament length difference more than 18%, to hand over the network number be 5~25/meter; And the voidage of this fabric is 20~40%.The voidage of fabric is that the voidage size directly influences the performance of silk-like fabric by the decision of the thickness of fabric and grammes per square metre, if voidage less than 20%, fabric shrink is excessive, and is thicker, pliability is bad; If voidage is greater than 40%, fabric shrink is just too small, causes the coil of fabric face to diminish even has not had, and fabric does not just have nature hang down sense and fluffy sense like this, does not reach the effect of emulation silk; And in order to embody the emulation silk feel of fabric better; Above-mentioned different contraction complex yarn is twisted; Because the filament length difference of yarn is embodied on the cloth cover, can produces even distribution on the surface of cloth and be the coil of 0.2~1mm highly on the other hand, make fabrics feel soft, bulkiness good.
The computing formula of filament length difference is following:
The length * 100% of filament length difference=(length of the length of processing back sheath yarn-processing back heart yarn)/processing back heart yarn
The friendship network number of above-mentioned complex yarn is 5~25/meter, and the friendship network number of composite yarn is bigger to twisted filament, back processing and fabric quality influence.If compound friendship network number is during less than 5/meter, heart yarn and sheath yarn separate easily during the twisted filament doff, and the broken yarn quality is bad; If compound friendship network number is during greater than 25/meter, after add the man-hour yarn and be not easy backtwisting and shrink badly etc., quality is bad.
Heart yarn is that boiling water shrinkage is at the PETG full-drawn yarn below 15%; The sheath yarn is the PETG preliminary draft silk of boiling water shrinkage more than 35%.
The computing formula of boiling water shrinkage is following:
Boiling water shrinkage=(yarn under specific load the length-yarn before the boiling water treating in the length under the specific load after the boiling water treating)/yarn length * before the boiling water treating 100% under specific load
The fiber number of above-mentioned heart yarn is 15~75 Denier, and the fiber number of sheath yarn is 15~75 Denier.If the fiber number of heart yarn, sheath yarn is all less than 15 Denier, the intensity of composite yarn is bad, and the easy broken yarn of twisted filament, the easy broken yarn of weaving cotton cloth, weaving efficiency is low, productivity is low; If all greater than 75 Denier, composite yarn is thicker for the fiber number of heart yarn, sheath yarn, fabric sofetening degree, fluffy sense after the processing are bad, do not reach the effect of emulation silk.
The warp-wise density of this fabric is 40~60 pieces/centimetre, and latitudinal density is 30~50 pieces/centimetre, is 1.2~1.5: 1 through broadwise density ratio.
Silk-like fabric of the present invention is a plain weave, and tabby positive and negative interlacing point is the same, produces onesize and equally distributed coil at the fabric positive and negative, and the positive and negative feel of fabric is consistent, wears comfortablely, has the effect of emulation silk.
The production method of silk-like fabric of the present invention; Selecting heart yarn for use is the PETG full-drawn yarn, and the sheath yarn is that the different contraction complex yarn of PETG preliminary draft silk is twisted, and weaves then; Back processing; Make product, wherein twist the twist 2800~3300T/M, twisted filament setting temperature 40~60 degree.
Consider and shrink balance through broadwise after the different contraction yarn twisted filament processing, the warp-wise density of this fabric is designed to 30~55 pieces/centimetre, and latitudinal density is designed to 30~50 pieces/centimetre.
Because different contraction yarn is when directly using; The composite yarn of forming can produce parachroia in dyeing course; In order in the dyeing process, to avoid parachroia also can access the feel of emulation silk; It is the above design of 2800T/M that different contraction complex yarn adopts the twist, and different according to the different institute of the thickness of yarn twist of selecting for use, generally twisting the twist is 2800~3300T/M.
In order to guarantee fabric face coil uniformity and planarization, the setting temperature of different contraction complex yarn is 40~60 degree.If setting temperature is higher than 60 degree, yarn shrinks inhomogeneous, and the coil of fabric face just differs, and will influence fabric feeling.
The production method of silk-like fabric of the present invention comprises the concavo-convex calendering of low temperature, refining, decrement, relaxes, dyes, puts in order typing in the process of back.The grey cloth that makes is carried out the concavo-convex calendering of low temperature earlier, calendering temperature 60~100 degree, 10~30 meters/minute of calendering speed.The purpose of calendering is that fabric is evenly shunk, and makes the lining surface more evenly smooth, receives and obtains uniform filament length difference, and then obtain the effect of emulation silk.Because yarn has many surface impurities or dirty greasy dirt etc. in yarn processing and twisted filament weaving process, so after calendering, be that 80~105 degree, 5~10g/l, scouring agent concentration are that 4~12g/l carries out refining treatment in refining temperature again.In order to improve the pliability of fabric; The decrement temperature is that 160 degree, reduction rate are 15~30% to carry out decrement treatment; Carry out relaxation processes, dyeing, arrangement typing again, obtain surface effect and good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY preferably in order to make fabric, this engineering of arrangement typing is very important.General setting temperature 160~200 degree, the surface effect and the feel requirement of engineering appearance cloth before the set basis of fabric width, fabric width increases by 2~15CM on the basis of preceding engineering appearance cloth, makes silk-like fabric at last.
The performance that silk-like fabric of the present invention has real silk fabric promptly has the characteristics of good pliability, vertical naturally sense, fluffy sense.
Description of drawings
Figure is the sectional view of silk-like fabric.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is described further, but the present invention does not receive the restriction of these embodiment.The method of testing of fabric property is following among the present invention:
[voidage]
The appearance cloth of clip 50CM*50CM is not tested 3 groups of data computation mean values in left, center, right (unit millimeter) with the thickness score; On this experiment appearance cloth, the branch left, center, right get 3 samples with the disk sampler again, weigh up 3 groups of data computation mean values respectively with electronic balance, the unit gram; Calculate according to the computing formula of voidage at last.Computing formula is following:
Voidage=thickness/grammes per square metre * 100%
[filament length difference]
The appearance cloth of clip 50CM*50CM; Take out the yarn of 3 long 10CM more respectively; This 3 one thread is carried out respectively after the untwisting heart yarn and sheath yarn separately, measure the length (unit: centimetre) of heart yarn and sheath yarn, average after calculating 3 groups of data according to the computing formula of filament length difference at last.Computing formula is following:
The length * 100% of filament length difference=(length of the length of processing back sheath yarn-processing back heart yarn)/processing back heart yarn
[handing over the network number]
Get 3 of composite yarns, from 3 yarns, respectively get 1 meter long yarn more respectively, these 3 one thread two ends are clamped with hand be placed in the tank respectively, number goes out to hand over 3 groups of network numbers, calculates the mean value of 3 groups of data at last, promptly hands over the network number.
Embodiment 1
A kind of silk-like fabric; All adopting fiber number through weft yarn is that the heart yarn of 20 Denier is that PETG full-drawn yarn and fiber number are that the sheath yarn of 50 Denier is the different contraction complex yarn of PETG preliminary draft silk; This yarn is added the sth. made by twisting of S/Z, and the twist is that 3300T/M, twisted filament setting temperature are 60 degree, carries out warping at 2: 2 with warp thread; Weft yarn carries out assortment at 2: 2; Plain weave is organized in employing, and design warp-wise density is that 45 pieces/centimetre, latitudinal density are 40 pieces/centimetre and weave, and makes grey cloth.Is that 60 degree, calendering speed are to carry out the concavo-convex calendering of low temperature under 20 minutes with the grey cloth that makes in the calendering temperature, and calendering is carried out refining, decrement afterwards successively, relaxed, dyes, puts in order the back processing of typing, makes silk-like fabric at last.The filament length difference of different contraction complex yarn is 19% in this fabric, and handing over the network number is 6/meter, and the voidage of fabric is 32%; Warp-wise density is 58 pieces/centimetre, and latitudinal density is 48 pieces/centimetre; Through broadwise density ratio is 1.2: 1.
Embodiment 2
A kind of silk-like fabric, all adopting fiber number through weft yarn is that the heart yarn of 30 Denier is that PETG full-drawn yarn and fiber number are that the sheath yarn of 75 Denier is the different contraction complex yarn of PETG preliminary draft silk.This yarn is added the sth. made by twisting of S/Z, and the twist is that 2800T/M, twisted filament setting temperature are 45 degree, carries out warping at 1: 1 with warp thread; Weft yarn carries out assortment at 1: 1; Plain weave is organized in employing, and design warp-wise density is that 34 pieces/centimetre, latitudinal density are 30 pieces/centimetre and weave, and makes grey cloth.Is that 80 degree, calendering speed are to carry out the concavo-convex calendering of low temperature under 10 minutes with the grey cloth that makes in the calendering temperature, and calendering is carried out refining, decrement afterwards successively, relaxed, dyes, puts in order the back processing of typing, makes silk-like fabric at last.The filament length difference of different contraction complex yarn is 20% in this fabric, and handing over the network number is 20/meter, and the voidage of fabric is 23%; Warp-wise density is 48 pieces/centimetre, and latitudinal density is 37 pieces/centimetre; Through broadwise density ratio is 1.3: 1.
Claims (7)
1. silk-like fabric is characterized in that: form this fabric and be the different contraction complex yarn through the core sheath structure of twisting through the yarn of weft yarn; The heart yarn of said different contraction complex yarn is that PETG full-drawn yarn, sheath yarn are PETG preliminary draft silk; The filament length difference of said different contraction complex yarn is more than 18%, and handing over the network number is 5~25/meter; And the voidage of this fabric is 20~40%.
2. silk-like fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the fiber number of said heart yarn is 15~75 Denier, and the fiber number of sheath yarn is 15~75 Denier.
3. silk-like fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the warp-wise density of this fabric is 40~60 pieces/centimetre, and latitudinal density is 30~50 pieces/centimetre.
4. silk-like fabric according to claim 3 is characterized in that: this fabric be 1.2~1.5: 1 through broadwise density ratio.
5. silk-like fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: this fabric is a plain weave.
6. the production method of a silk-like fabric as claimed in claim 1; It is characterized in that: selecting heart yarn for use is that PETG full-drawn yarn, sheath yarn are that the different contraction complex yarn of PETG preliminary draft silk is twisted; Weave then, back processing makes product; Wherein twist the twist 2800~3300T/M, setting temperature 40~60 degree.
7. the production method of silk-like fabric according to claim 6 is characterized in that: add the man-hour grey cloth after said and carry out concavo-convex calendering earlier, temperature 60~100 degree, 10~30 meters/minute of speed.
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Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN103541117A (en) * | 2012-07-10 | 2014-01-29 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Imitated silk fabric |
CN103835146A (en) * | 2012-11-20 | 2014-06-04 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Textile product and production method thereof |
CN104711743A (en) * | 2013-12-12 | 2015-06-17 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Imitation silk fabric and production method thereof |
CN104818566A (en) * | 2015-04-14 | 2015-08-05 | 歙县博升纺织有限公司 | Fabric with velvet effect and manufacturing method thereof |
CN106283605A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-01-04 | 福建金苑服饰有限公司 | A kind of silk Facsimile fabric production method |
CN111441126A (en) * | 2020-04-20 | 2020-07-24 | 徐州荣盛达纤维制品科技有限公司 | Antistatic one-step combined filament yarn fabric and preparation method thereof |
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Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN103541117A (en) * | 2012-07-10 | 2014-01-29 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Imitated silk fabric |
CN103835146A (en) * | 2012-11-20 | 2014-06-04 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Textile product and production method thereof |
CN104711743A (en) * | 2013-12-12 | 2015-06-17 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Imitation silk fabric and production method thereof |
CN104818566A (en) * | 2015-04-14 | 2015-08-05 | 歙县博升纺织有限公司 | Fabric with velvet effect and manufacturing method thereof |
CN106283605A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-01-04 | 福建金苑服饰有限公司 | A kind of silk Facsimile fabric production method |
CN111441126A (en) * | 2020-04-20 | 2020-07-24 | 徐州荣盛达纤维制品科技有限公司 | Antistatic one-step combined filament yarn fabric and preparation method thereof |
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Application publication date: 20120704 |