CN101463522A - Dark dyeing fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a fabric which can be dyed with dark color and a producing method thereof. The yarn of the fabric is sheath core composite false twist yarn, raw yarn used for forming the sheath core composite false twist yarn can be PET, PTT or PET/PTT bi-component yarn and has the fineness within the range of 30-300 deniers, and the yarn length difference between sheath yarn and core yarn which form the sheath core composite false twist yarn is 15-40%. The producing method comprises the steps: preparation working procedure, fabric manufacture, refining, loose project, intermediate sizing, dyeing, trachychromatic resin finishing, arranging, sizing, etc. The fabric is designed by middle-high density, and the overall coverage coefficient of the finished products is over 1800; the plus material which has L value being less than 9.5, fluffy hand feeling with 0-20% of elasticity and wool-like effect is manufactured by fabric dyeing and finishing technique, so that the invention is applicable to fashionable dresses and uniforms with various styles.

Description

A kind of dark dyeing fabric

Technical field:

The present invention relates to the machinable textile fabric of a kind of dark color.

Background technology:

As traditional fabric, we are adding man-hour to it, make it can reach dark effect and be difficult to; Even in the processing of back, add a lot of dyestuffs, also not all right, and the fabric of the COLOR FASTNESS that is difficult to obtain, fluffy sense, the feel of fabric face are all bad.Because what they used all is common yarn, last dark effect is bad.

Summary of the invention:

The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of dark effective dark dyeing fabric of.

Technical solution of the present invention is:

A kind of dark dyeing fabric, it is characterized in that: the yarn of forming this fabric is a core-skin composit false twisting yarn, the raw yarn of forming core-skin composit false twisting yarn can be PET, the bi-component yarn of PTT or PET/PTT, the fiber number of raw yarn is between 30～300 DENIER, forming the skin yarn of core-skin composit false twisting yarn and the filament length difference of heart yarn is 15～40%, and core-skin composit false twisting yarn can be twisted use, between twist number range 400～3000T/M.

Core-skin composit false twisting yarn of the present invention comprises:

Core, the PET of use, the bi-component yarn of PTT or PET/PTT, the yarn of the preferred 30D～150D of raw yarn fiber number can be POY, SDY or FDY form, and the degree of stretching of raw yarn reaches requirement more than 10%, and NDR is more than 50%.

NDR: the natural extension ratio that refers to raw yarn.

Skin zone, the PET of use, the bi-component yarn of PTT or PET/PTT, the yarn of the preferred 100D～300D of raw yarn fiber number, preferred POY or SDY form, the degree of stretching of raw yarn requires more than 150%, and NDR is more than 50%.

The computational methods of filament length difference:

The percentage of filament length difference=(sheath portion filament length degree-core filament length degree)/core length of yarn.

Realize weaving process of the present invention:

A kind of weaving process that dyes deep-colour fabric is characterized in that: fabric adopts flat two-fold, through two-fold, and latitude two-fold or have concaveconvex structure such as complex organization such as cellular.Heavy twist twisting during core-skin false twisting composite yarn carries out, high thread count design in the employing, the overall coverage coefficient of finished product is more than 1800.And cooperate suitable warping and axle technology, make the beam of a loom that is fit to loom.

High thread count design in adopting in this invention, the overall coverage coefficient of finished product is more than 1800.Aspect tissue selects for use, generally adopt flat two-fold, through two-fold, latitude two-fold or have concaveconvex structure such as complex organization's (accompanying drawing 2) such as cellular.

Select for use this core-skin composit false twisting yarn as warp thread, high mode of twisting with the fingers in generally adopting; Weft yarn can adopt yarn of the same race also can select different types of core-skin yarn for use, the high sth. made by twisting in also adopting; Can adopt the mode of sth. made by twisting to assortment or the assortment of yarn kind through weft yarn, can be 1:1; 2:2; 3:3 or random assortment.

The preceding preparatory process of weaving of this invention fabric is: twisted filament-warping-and the axle-denting operation of gaiting.In warping process, warping apparatus can be beam warper or Sectional warping machines, warping tension force when warping remains on 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D, when warping, can add suitable oil or wax, and the tension force in when axle remains on 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D, and axle speed is 60M/MIN～300M/MIN.Make the beam of a loom that is fit to air-jet loom or Rapier looms by above method.

In the machine process,, require warp thread is remained certain force of strain on the beam of a loom, reach the smooth state of yarn because warp thread is the twisted filament yarn.Also to keep the clear of warp thread yarn road in addition, guarantee the phenomenon of not twining between the yarn.In weaving engineering since yarn be false twisting composite yarn with filament length difference, to the requirement height of opening wefting insertion.So loom can adopt big warp tension 0.2CN/D～0.5CN/D, more than the big opening amount 80mm, and higher back beam height 0～(-6) CM.

A kind of production method of dark dyeing fabric, comprise preparatory process, weave, refining, lax engineering, middle typing, dyeing, the arrangement of dense colorable resin, arrangement typing etc., by to grey cloth 95 the degree temperature under carry out the refining treatment of 30S～60S after, again through the loose processing under 100～130 temperature, middle typing, carry out color dyeing arrangement processing after the decrement processing, obtain to dye deep-colour fabric.Wherein the width of cloth goes out the typing-dense colorable resin finishing engineering special engineering of kind fabric for this reason; The decrement engineering is looked fabric feeling and is adopted.

Refining: but because the warp thread of dark color dyeing and weaving thing is a chemical-fibres filaments, so the condition of refining is: T=80 ℃～105 ℃, alkaline agent concentration is 5g/l～10g/l, refining agent concentration is 4g/l～12g/l, refining speed determines that according to the thickness and the refining effect of cloth speed is generally 30M/MIN～80M/MIN.

Loose engineering: since this invention warp thread adopt be in high twist yarn, and the Fabric Design of high thread count in adopting, feel can be more rough, if adopt the engineering the same with general fabrics, is easy to make that the feel of fabric is also bad.So lining has loose engineering, reduce the fluffy sense of the twist, increase fabric, the contraction that strengthens fabric, used machine is loose machine, and lax temperature is 100 ℃～130 ℃, and temperature controlling can decide by the boiling water shrinkage and the twist of fabric,

The centre typing: the effect of middle typing is the raising fabric smoothness and prevents in the shrinkage of engineering that dyes.The temperature of middle typing is 160 ℃～220 ℃, and the cloth cover effect of engineering and the elasticity of finished product are determined before the set basis of fabric width.Have at fabric elasticity under the situation of requirement, the door width of cloth of middle typing will guarantee that typing back engineering sample elasticity and fabric require to set in elasticity 3% scope.Under the situation that fabric elasticity does not require, can set according to the requirement of feel and with reference to the grammes per square metre of fabric.

Decrement: the alkali decrement is to improve a kind of method of pliability, among the present invention simultaneously, fabric carried out the alkali decrement treatment after, fabric yarn shows to have concaveconvex structure, increase the diffuse reflection of fabric, after dying dark color, can reduce radiative visible energy, obtained deep-colour fabric.It is fixed that reduction rate requires according to the feel of fabric, is 0%～20% to carry out the decrement engineering in order to obtain the general preferred reduction rate of better feel.

Dyeing: during dyeing according to the present invention selected false twisting composite yarn with 15～40% filament length differences, can select for use the big heavy colour dyestuff of molecular structure to dye, obtain dark fabric.

The width of cloth goes out typing: for the stability of the dense colorable resin finishing engineering of back engineering, carry out the width of cloth and go out the typing arrangement.

Dense colorable resin arrangement: adopt the resin of low-refraction that the fabric of dark color is processed, increase the bathochromic effect of fabric.

Arrangement typing: for fabric obtains surface effect and good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY preferably, this engineering of arrangement typing is necessary, the same during the arrangement typing with middle setting machine, adopt framing shaping machine, temperature is 130 ℃～200 ℃, the setting of fabric width is in order to guarantee the effect of dense colorable resin arrangement, the fabric width of engineering before generally keeping.

The goods entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source that obtains adopts D65, and recording the L value is below 9.5, and the elasticity of fabric reaches 0～20%.L value (luminance): lightness (0≤L≤100)

When core-skin false twisting complex yarn is made, the yarn kind is fed in the interlacing nozzle simultaneously by above-mentioned core-skin raw yarn, make yarn fluffy through the false twister effect, form skin-core structure, wherein the filament length difference of skin yarn and heart yarn is 15%～40%, and it is compound to carry out the drafting false twisting distortion, forms special yarn, prepared yarn is weaved after twisting, can obtain the fabric of the feel of wool, soft, sliding network by the decrement engineering again.Can make deep-colour fabric behind the deep colour dyeing.This yarn kind makes fabric have the sense of hanging down, and voluptuousness is arranged by it is twisted.And when adopting PTT or PET/PTT bi-component yarn to use as raw yarn, obtain fabric and have elasticity, the elasticity of fabric reaches 0～20%.Product be have can hyperchromatic various styles lining, lining has good color development effect.

The invention will be further described below in conjunction with drawings and Examples.

Fig. 1 is the diagrammatic sketch of core-skin composit false twisting yarn.

Fig. 2 is backed weave form figure.

Mid portion is a heart yarn among Fig. 1, and peripheral part is the skin yarn.

The specific embodiment:

Embodiment 1:

Use the yarn kind: through weft yarn: 200d-60f-core-skin false twisting composite yarn

Tissue: pears ground

Extrudate density: 151/IN * 77/IN

Goods tightness: 3050

Wherein the raw yarn of 200d-60f-core-skin false twisting composite yarn employing is: heart yarn 99D-FDY, and degree of stretching 32%, the NDR value is 55%; Skin yarn 90D-POY, degree of stretching is 168%, the NDR value is 80%; The core-skin filament length difference of composite yarn is 25%, and composite yarn adopts the twisting mode.All adopt S1450T/M and Z1450T/M 2:2 assortment through weft yarn.

Be organized as the tissue that the surface has concaveconvex structure the pears of selecting for use.

In preparatory construction, warp thread adopts common process, and the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 0.35N/D.

Select for use air-jet loom to weave, the tension force setting value when weaving on the loom is 2500N, and actual measurement tension force is 0.35CN/D on the machine of single thread.

Dyeing processing major project and condition:

Refining: T=95 ℃, alkaline agent concentration 8g/l, refining agent concentration 6g/l, V cloth=60m/min.

Loose engineering: T=120 ℃

Middle typing: T=200 ℃, fabric width is set on the basis of refining and adds 2cm.

Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine dyeing, dyeing condition: 135 ℃ * 50min, used dyestuff is for disperseing the heavy colour dyestuff, and color is a black.

Dense colorable resin arrangement: select for use the silicone oil of refractive index 1.40 and dimethyl polysiloxane that fabric is put in order.

The arrangement typing: T=190 ℃, V cloth=30m/min.

The goods entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source that obtains adopts D65, and recording the L value is 9.48, fabric be 2% through broadwise elasticity.Has fluffy feel.

Embodiment 2:

Use the yarn kind: warp thread: 200d-60f-core-skin false twisting composite yarn PET

Weft yarn: the compound PET of 180-60-core-skin false twisting (flexible)

Tissue: through two-fold

Extrudate density: 155/IN * 86/IN

Goods tightness: 3100

Wherein 200d-60f-core-skin false twisting composite yarn is with the yarn of explanation in the example 1.The heart yarn 99D-24F-PET/PTT bi-component FDY of 180-60-core-skin false twisting composite yarn, degree of stretching 25%, the NDR value is 70%; Skin yarn 90D-POY, degree of stretching is 168%, the NDR value is 80%; The core-skin filament length difference of composite yarn is 38%, and composite yarn adopts the twisting mode.Through yarn twisting S1450T/M; Weft yarn twisting 1800T/M, and adopt S/Z to twist with the fingers to the 2:2 assortment.

Emphasis is to flexible control in the process engineering, and Other Engineering condition and example 1 are similar.

When middle typing condition fabric width is set, under the engineering sample 15% flexible condition of assurance typing back, set.

The goods entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source that obtains adopts D65, and recording the L value is 9.3, and the warp-wise elasticity of fabric is 2%, and broadwise elasticity is 14.5%, has fluffy feel.

Claims (7)

1, a kind of dark dyeing fabric, it is characterized in that: the yarn of forming this fabric is a core-skin composit false twisting yarn, the raw yarn of forming core-skin composit false twisting yarn can be PET, PTT or PET/PTT bi-component yarn, the fiber number of raw yarn is between 30～300 DENIER, and forming the skin yarn of core-skin composit false twisting yarn and the filament length difference of heart yarn is 15～40%.

2, dark dyeing fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the yarn of core-skin composit false twisting yarn for handling through twisting, the twist is 400～3000T/M.

3, dark dyeing fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the fiber number of core raw yarn is 30D～150D, and degree of stretching is more than 10%, and natural extension ratio is more than 50%.

4, dark dyeing fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the fiber number of skin zone's raw yarn is 100D～300D, and degree of stretching is more than 150%, and natural extension ratio is more than 50%.

5, dark dyeing fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: fabric for flat two-fold, through two-fold, latitude is double or have the tissue of concaveconvex structure, the overall coverage coefficient of finished product is more than 1800.

6, dark dyeing fabric according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: finished product brightness L value is below 9.5, and elasticity is 0～20%.

7, the production method of the described dark dyeing fabric of a kind of claim 1, comprise preparatory process, weave, refining, lax engineering, middle typing, dyeing, the arrangement of dense colorable resin, arrangement typing, it is characterized in that: during refining: temperature is 80～105 ℃, alkaline agent concentration is 5～10g/l, refining agent concentration is 4～12g/l, and cloth speed is 30～80m/min; The temperature of lax engineering is 100～130 ℃; The temperature of middle typing is 160～220 ℃; Dyeing adopts the heavy colour dyestuff to dye; During the arrangement typing, temperature is 130～200 ℃.

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