CN102395352A - Cosmetic material composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic material composition Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102395352A
CN102395352A CN2010800166882A CN201080016688A CN102395352A CN 102395352 A CN102395352 A CN 102395352A CN 2010800166882 A CN2010800166882 A CN 2010800166882A CN 201080016688 A CN201080016688 A CN 201080016688A CN 102395352 A CN102395352 A CN 102395352A
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extract
skin
gynura
effective ingredient
cosmetic combination
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李灿雨
金汉星
李秀镇
金真雄
金汉坤
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Amorepacific Corp
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Amorepacific Corp
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic material compositions for skin whitening or skin anti-aging containing Averrhoa bilimbi extract as an active ingredient. The active ingredient of each composition further contains selectively at least one selected from the group consisting of Gynura procumbens extract and Gynura pseudochina extract. According to the cosmetic material composition of the present invention, skin function can be effectively improved without skin irritation through, for example, enhancing skin whitening or preventing the aging of skin.

Description

Cosmetic combination
Technical field
The present invention relates to skin-whitening with or skin anti-aging use cosmetic combination.
Background technology
Cell ultraviolet, environmental pollutants, the rapid cell injury stimulations such as temperature Change suffered from the outside can be brought out intracellular multiple biochemical the variation and cause the cell injury reaction.Wherein, increase skin-whitening and prevent that skin aging from playing most important effect in skin function improves.
About skin-whitening, when skin is exposed in the ultraviolet, can synthesize and discharge the melanin (melanin) of decider's the colour of skin, bring out the excessive hemachromatosises of pigment such as nevus, freckle, speckle, bring the bad consequence in the beauty treatment.Melanic building-up process does; The enzyme that at first is referred to as tryrosinase (tyrosinase) generates DOPA quinone (dopaquinone) with intracellular tyrosine (tyrosine) as substrate, generates the melanin as copolymer by the DOPA quinone through autoxidation reaction and enzyme reaction.Therefore, in order to prevent general colour of skin blackening, studying and a kind ofly in the melanin generative process, suppressing part reaction and reduce the synthetic method of melanin itself.This, the known representational raw material of whitening that can suppress building-up process has vitamin C.
But; Vitamin C is unstable; In external environment conditions such as heat, light, react sensitively and easy oxidized decomposition with air especially oxygen; Thereby therefore the vitamin C that can't stably keep capacity exists in medicine, food, the cosmetics etc. and can only use a spot of ascorbic problem as active substance (active ingredient).
On the other hand, all organisms can wear out with the growth at age, and skin can wear out too.Continuing in order to postpone this aged effort always, constantly proposing what is aged essence for this reason, why can cause aged query.
Because of skin aging, the structure of skin and physiological function continue to go down with the growth at age, and collagenous degeneration and lose that skin ageing phenomenons such as skin elasticity can be followed on the multiple function, structural variation.
Particularly, the variation on the aging skin texture that causes has, as epidermis, corium and the hypodermic thickness attenuation of the constituent of skin.In addition, be responsible for the elastic force of skin and the extracellular matrix (ECM of tensile dermal tissue; Extracelluar matrix) composition changes.
This extracellular matrix is made up of two kinds of compositions substantially.One of which is to account for about 2~4% overall elastic fiber (elastic fiber) of extracellular matrix, and another is to account for about 70~80% overall collagen of ECM.Wherein, collagen generates rapid minimizing through ageing process, and the collagen of generation can be decomposed.Because the collagen content in this phenomenon, skin reduces, when collagen reduces in corium, not only can make the epidermis roughening of skin, also might produce wrinkle.
With the purpose that is reduced to of the collagen of the cause that suppresses to become this wrinkle, develop multiple material and use, and the most representative material is retinol and retinoic acid.But retinol and retinoic acid are followed the positive effect that improves wrinkle, on skin, use few amount also can irritant defective even also exist, and have the problem of the restriction that low absorbing power and unstability due to fat-soluble can cause using.
Summary of the invention
According to an embodiment of the invention purpose provide a kind of skin-whitening with or skin aging use cosmetic combination, its contain stable and can not bring out stimulation when being used for skin and the extract of the medicinal plants that has no side effect as effective ingredient.
To achieve these goals, provide a kind of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract that contains to use cosmetic combination according to an embodiment of the present invention as the skin-whitening of effective ingredient.
To achieve these goals, provide a kind of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract that contains to use cosmetic combination according to another embodiment of the present invention as the skin anti-aging of effective ingredient.
According to cosmetic combination of the present invention, not only can not bring out skin irritation, can also be through for example promoting skin-whitening or preventing that skin aging from improving effectively skin function.
The specific embodiment
Inventor of the present invention has confirmed following effect through following embodiment: extract that will extract from medicinal plants according to cosmetic combination of the present invention or the extract combination extracted from medicinal plants are during as effective ingredient; Can suppress melanic generation and effective especially to promoting skin-whitening; And not only show with existing be used to whiten prevent
Figure BPA00001446657700021
and the skin-whitening of known vitamin C same degree is promoted effect, also have excellent stable effective ingredients property.
In addition; Compositions can increase the biosynthesis of collagen (collagen); The activity that suppresses metalloproteases (MMP-1); Prevention and treatment to skin aging have effect preferably, and known retinol or retinoic acid are different with being used for aging resistance, have confirmed not only can not produce skin irritation and can also bring into play excellent aging resistance and prevent effect.
The effective ingredient of above-mentioned composition is Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract, and above-mentioned effective ingredient can also optionally contain more than one the material that is selected from Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens) extract and Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) extract.
In one embodiment; The effective ingredient of above-mentioned composition is the mixture of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens) extract and Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract; Or the mixture of 2 kinds of extracts such as mixture of Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) extract and Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract; When above-mentioned effective ingredient was the mixture of 2 kinds of extracts, effective ingredient can contain in weight ratio 5: 1 to 1: 5, be preferably the extract of 3: 1 to 1: 3 mixed.
In another embodiment; The mixture of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens) extract, Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) extract and Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract all can be contained in the effective ingredient of above-mentioned composition; When above-mentioned effective ingredient was the mixture of three kinds of extracts, effective ingredient can contain in weight ratio 1~5: 1~5: 1~5, be preferably 1~3: 1~3: the extract of 1~3 mixed.
It is " Sambung=is permanent; Nyawa=life " that above-mentioned Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens) uses Indonesian; Leaf (the English name: the medicinal plants of implication Life sustainable Plant) that continuity life is promptly arranged; Wait China, Southeast Asia traditional medicine to put down in writing according to " Chinese medicine voluminous dictionary ", "
Figure BPA00001446657700031
(look into nurse (jamu) ", " (the Thailand medicinal herbs are learned) ", cough, bronchitis, pulmonary tuberculosis, blood circulation, traumatic injury are had effect.Because of this reason, the Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. that contains abundant nutrition is used for folkd therapy or in order to keep or to improve health and be used to eat, comes into one's own as special plant in south east asia such as Indonesia, Thailand.
Above-mentioned Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) is the plant of being widely known by the people as having effect such as antibiotic, astringent, typhoid fever, pruritus, diabetes, antiinflammatory in south east asia, will spend, leaf, fruit use respectively by the position.Flower uses as the medical material of cough, asthma etc.; Fruit is as food, known aminoacid, citric acid (citric acid), cyanidin-3-O-β-D-glucoside (cyanidin-3-O-β-D-glucoside), phenols (phenolics), vitamin A (vitamin A) etc. of being rich in.
Above-mentioned Averrhoa bilimbi report up to now has treatment (the anti-hyperlipidemic:Planta Med.2009 of pair hyperlipemia; 75 (1): 55-8), treatment (the Life Sci.2005 of glycosuria; 76 (24): effect 2827-39), but not to the report of the effect that improves skin function.
Above-mentioned Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. report up to now has hypertensive treatment (J Med Food.2006; 9 (4): 587-90), inhibition (the Med Princ Pract.2007 of angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE); 16 (3): 203-8), (Singapore Med J.2000 for the treatment of glycosuria; 41 (1): 9-13) or the treatment of inflammation (Plant Foods Hum Nutr.2002 Fall; 57 (3-4): the effect that 233-44) waits, but report was not carried out in the improvement effect of skin function.
Above-mentioned Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) is known as in Southeast Asia cancer and the effective plant of glycosuria; Fresh leaf and water are together smashed to pieces and drunk this water; As the effective medicinal plants of wound disinfection is reported, still report was not carried out in the improvement effect of skin function.
Above-mentioned effective ingredient is that benchmark contains 0.1 to 5 weight % with the composition total weight, preferably contains 1 to 30 weight %, nearly unavailable fruit when content of effective is very few, and the increase of effect is not obvious when exceeding 30 weight %.
The dosage form of above-mentioned cosmetic combination can be for for example toner/smoothing toner, nutrition astringent, nutrition skin lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, facial film, gel, health reveal, body is white, body is oily or the body quintessence oil; But be not limited only to this, in each dosage form except above-mentioned must composition those skilled in the art can select at an easy rate and cooperate other components according to application target.
Below, the present invention is described according to following embodiment and experimental example in more detail, but scope of the present invention is not by this qualification.
[experimental example 1] precollagen biosynthesis ability
To from human body skin, implant in 24 holes by 106 in every hole by isolating fibroblast, till growth 90%, cultivate.After it is cultivated 24 hours with serum-free medium; Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens), Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) and 3 kinds of one matters of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) and mixture be dissolved in for 4 kinds be treated to 100ppm concentration in the serum-free medium, and at CO 2Cultivated in the cultivation machine 24 hours.Get these supernatant, whether verified precollagenous increase and decrease, its result is presented in the table 1 with (I) procollagen type (Procollagen type 1) Elisa test kit.Test considering under the Cytotoxic concentration, synthesis capability for non-processed group as 100 results that compare.
[table 1]
The experiment material Synthesis capability (%)
Non-processed group 100
Vitamin C 128.5
Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. 1. 113.8
Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. 2. 109.4
Averrhoa bilimbi 3. 119.1
①+②(1∶1) 120.2
①+③(1∶1) 121.4
②+③(1∶1) 119.6
①+②+③(1∶1∶1) 119.5
Can know from table 1; There are precollagen (procollagen) synthesis capability in single extract and mixture, show the biosynthetic effect of best increase collagen in the complex method of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens) and two kinds of extracts of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi).
[experimental example 2] collagenase (MMP-1) inhibition ability
In the experiment; Fibroblast 5000 cells/well (well) of in the dull and stereotyped incubators in 96 holes (96-well microtiter plate) that contain the DMEM that comprises 2.5% hyclone (Dulbecco ' s Modified Eagle ' s Media) culture medium, adding human body are cultivated till the growth 70~80%.Then; Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens), Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) and 3 kinds of one matters of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) and 4 kinds of mixture after 24 hours, are collected cell culture fluid with the processing of 10ppm concentration.But (U.S. Amersham pharmacia company Catalog#:RPN2610) has measured collagenase and has generated degree with the collagenase checkout gear of the cell culture fluid utilization commercial exploitation of collecting.At first, evenly be coated with the middle cell culture fluid of collecting that adds of 96-orifice plate (96-well plate) of 1 collagenase antibody, in calorstat, carried out 3 hours antigen-antibody reaction.After 3 hours,, reacted again 15 minutes having combined chromophoric 2 collagen antibodies to add in the 96-orifice plate (96-well plate).After 15 minutes, add substance that show color, carry out 15 minutes colour developing at room temperature, the sulphuric acid that adds 1M again makes reaction (colour developing) when stopping, and the reactant liquor band is yellow, and the degree that xanchromatic degree is carried out with reaction shows differently.Under 405nm, detect the absorbance of yellowy 96-orifice plate (96-wellplate) with absorptiometer, and calculate the synthetic degree of collagenase according to mathematical expression 1.This moment will be without the reaction absorbance of the cell culture fluid of the collection of the group of compositions-treated as matched group.Its result is presented in the table 2, tests under the Cytotoxic concentration having considered.
[mathematical expression 1]
Collagenase expression degree (%)=(absorbance of the absorbance/matched group of mass treatment groups of cells) * 100
[table 2]
The experiment material Collagenase expression suppresses degree (%)
Non-processed group 100
UV handles 152.4
Retinoic acid 84.3
Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. 1. 79.4
Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. 2. 88.1
Averrhoa bilimbi 3. 101.5
③+②(1∶1) 101.6
①+③(1∶1) 101.9
④+③(1∶1) 104.6
②+②+③(1∶1∶1) 102.5
Can know that from table 2 show the effect that suppresses matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1) in single extract and the mixture, the mixture of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens), Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) shows best activity.
[experimental example 3] utilizes the melanin of Melan-a cell to generate the inhibition merit rating
With the extract of each manufacturing and mixture as the experiment material, with the DMEM that contains 10%FBS to 6-orifice plate (melanin is quantitative) with 2 * 10 4Cells/well (final volume 3ml), to 96 orifice plates (mtt assay) with 2 * 10 3Cells/well (final volume 200ul) is added, and in 37 ℃, 5%CO2 incubator (MCO-20AIC, Sanyo), cultivates 24 hours.Remove culture medium after the cultivation; To contain 10%FBS, 2uM α-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone (Melanocyte stimulating hormone)) and the DMEM culture medium of 2mM theophylline (theophylline) uses as new culture medium; And to culture medium interpolation experiment material; Through 3 days, handled every day.Removed the culture medium of in 6 orifice plates, cultivating at the 5th day; And reclaim cell pellets (pellet) with 0.25% trypsin-EDTA (Sigma Chemical Co.) solution-treated; And move on in the 1.5ml test tube (tube), removed supernatant in 10 minutes with the 10000rpm centrifugalize.The pellet that obtains after 60 ℃ of dryings, is added 1N NaOH 100ul and the interior melanin of dissolved cell.This solution with after the PBS dilution, is measured absorbance and tried to achieve the melanin generating suppression of test portion in ELIASA 475nm.As matched group, with the melanin content comparison in the matched group, thereby the melanin that determines the experiment material generates the inhibition degree, thereby has measured whitening effect with the cell that does not add the said extracted thing.Calculate melanin generating suppression according to following mathematical expression 1, its result is illustrated in the table 3.
[mathematical expression 2]
Melanin generating suppression (%)=100 (respectively testing absorbance * 100 of the absorbance/matched group of material)
[table 3] melanin generates and suppresses effect
Figure BPA00001446657700071
Can know by table 3; The whitening effect of single extract and mixture is excellent, and wherein the mixed extract of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. (Gynura procumbens), Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) and 3 kinds of Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) shows the highest melanin and generates the inhibition effect.
Explanation is according to the dosage form example of compositions of the present invention below, and the skin function improvement may be used on various dosage forms with compositions, and this is not to be used for limiting the present invention, but only is used to specify.
[dosage form example 1] nutrition astringent (emulsion)
As shown in the table, make the nutrition astringent with usual way.
Gradation composition Weight %
The Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. extract 2.0
Squalane 5.0
Cera Flava 4.0
Polysorbate 60 1.5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5
Liquid paraffin 0.5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.0
Glycerol 3.0
Butanediol 3.0
Propylene glycol 3.0
Carboxyl ethylene polymer 0.1
Triethanolamine 0.2
Antiseptic, pigment, spice In right amount
Pure water To 100
[dosage form example 2] toner/smoothing toner (skin cream)
As shown in the table, make toner/smoothing toner with usual way.
Gradation composition Weight %
Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. (Gynura pseudochina) extract 2.0
Glycerol 3.0
Butanediol 2.0
Propylene glycol 2.0
Carboxyl ethylene polymer 0.1
The PEG12 nonylplenyl ether 0.2
Polysorbate 80 0.4
Ethanol 10.0
Triethanolamine 0.1
Antiseptic, pigment, spice In right amount
Pure water To 100
[dosage form example 3] nourishing cream
As shown in the table, make nourishing cream with usual way.
Gradation composition Weight %
Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract 2.0
Polysorbate 60 1.5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5
The PEG60 castor oil hydrogenated 2.0
Liquid paraffin 10
Squalane 5.0
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.0
Glycerol 5.0
Butanediol 3.0
Propylene glycol 3.0
Triethanolamine 0.2
Antiseptic In right amount
Pigment In right amount
Spice In right amount
Pure water To 100
[dosage form example 4] massage cream
As shown in the table, make massage cream with usual way.
Gradation composition Weight %
Averrhoa bilimbi (Averrhoa bilimbi) extract 1.0
Cera Flava 10.0
Polysorbate 60 1.5
The PEG60 castor oil hydrogenated 2.0
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8
Liquid paraffin 40.0
Squalane 5.0
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 4.0
Glycerol 5.0
Butanediol 3.0
Propylene glycol 3.0
Triethanolamine 0.2
Antiseptic, pigment, spice In right amount
Pure water To 100
[dosage form example 5] facial film
As shown in the table, make facial film with usual way.
Figure BPA00001446657700101
[dosage form example 6] gel
As shown in the table, make gel with usual way.
Figure BPA00001446657700111
Those skilled in the art can carry out multiple application and distortion within the scope of the invention based on foregoing.

Claims (9)

1. a cosmetic combination is characterized in that, contains the Averrhoa bilimbi extract as effective ingredient, is used for skin-whitening or skin anti-aging.
2. cosmetic combination according to claim 1 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient also contains and is selected from Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. extract and the Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. extract more than one.
3. cosmetic combination according to claim 2 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient contains Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. extract and Averrhoa bilimbi extract or Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. extract and Averrhoa bilimbi extract.
4. cosmetic combination according to claim 3 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient contains in the extract of weight ratio by 1: 5 to 5: 1 mixed.
5. cosmetic combination according to claim 2 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient contains Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. extract, Gynura pseudochina (Linn.) DC. extract and Averrhoa bilimbi extract.
6. cosmetic combination according to claim 5 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient contains in weight ratio by 1~5: the extract of 1~5: 1~5 mixed.
7. cosmetic combination according to claim 1 is characterized in that said compositions suppresses melanic generation and shows the skin-whitening effect.
8. cosmetic combination according to claim 1 is characterized in that, said compositions increases biosynthesis, the inhibition MMP activities of collagen, thereby shows the skin anti-aging effect.
9. cosmetic combination according to claim 1 is characterized in that, said effective ingredient is that benchmark contains 0.1 to 5 weight % with the composition total weight.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103961301A (en) * 2014-05-30 2014-08-06 袁丁 Gynura procumbens use-activated multiactive natural compound mask and preparation method thereof
CN103961301B (en) * 2014-05-30 2016-02-17 袁丁 Namely a kind of Gynura procumbens (Lour.) Merr. imitates natural compound recipe facial film of polynary maintenance and preparation method thereof
RU2626673C1 (en) * 2016-10-11 2017-07-31 Виа Вита Эстейт Лимитед Means for treatment of skin and mucosa diseases, for local use, which is anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antiviral, wound-healung, anti-fungal

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