CN102274134B - Eyelash mascara and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Eyelash mascara and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN102274134B
CN102274134B CN 201010200395 CN201010200395A CN102274134B CN 102274134 B CN102274134 B CN 102274134B CN 201010200395 CN201010200395 CN 201010200395 CN 201010200395 A CN201010200395 A CN 201010200395A CN 102274134 B CN102274134 B CN 102274134B
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mascara
wax
water
weight
styrene
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CN102274134A (en
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陈军
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ZHEJIANG MEIXUE COSMETICS CO Ltd
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ZHEJIANG MEIXUE COSMETICS CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention provides an eyelash mascara, a preparation method thereof and an eyelash mascara product. The eyelash mascara contains styrene / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid ammonium salt copolymer, di-polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol-14 / 14 dimethiconol. Cream of the eyelash mascara of the invention can be uniformly smeared, and has good waterproof effect and lasting cosmetic performance.

Description

A kind of mascara and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The invention relates to the beauty treatment series products, is specifically related to mascara and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Traditional mascara adopts tween or span as emulsifying agent, increases his water resistance with the polypropylene acid esters as film former, and the Brazil wax of plant origin provides its molding curling effect.
Yet traditional mascara seems that at waterproof effect some shortcoming, makeup a period of time profit will occur and make up when providing dense volume to stick up, the lasting bad problem of effect is embodied in the following aspects:
The makeup effect is bad, traditional prescription vegetable wax content is higher, generally be mainly Brazil wax, candelilla wax, fusing point is respectively 82 ℃-86 ℃ and 68 ℃-73 ℃ all than higher, and mastic is more thick and heavy, and the wax in the prescription is not very even when smearing to mastic, or the local problem that rolls up granule that has occurs.
The conventional formulation waterproof effect is bad, because the system of traditional mascara is that tween or span are as the oil-in-water system of emulsifying agent, the outside is water, waterproof effect directly depends on the waterproof effect of film former, and traditional film former has hydrophilic group to exist, so the waterproof effect of its product well imagines, be easy to by water (outside rainwater) or warm water (tear) moisteningly basically, this profit that just occurs it has often been said is made up;
The lasting effect of tradition mascara is bad, come molding because traditional mascara is vegetable wax, yet vegetable wax Brazil wax suppleness is bad, can molding after the makeup, break but will occur shape repeatedly several times, cause peeling away from eyelashes, lasting effect is bad;
Easy siccative, traditional mascara is filled in the body, because be oil-in-water system, the outside is water, and moisture evaporates easily, and last mastic retrogradation becomes siccative, though the body good seal performance has certain improvement to this problem, cause cost higher to the requirements at the higher level of accessory, and very risky.
Also have many mascaras to adopt the invert emulsion system now, improved the problems referred to above to a certain extent, for example waterproof problem still still exists stability and film property problem.
1. system stability problem
The mascara of invert emulsion system generally uses sorbester p17 or sorbester p37 as emulsifying agent, be stable generally speaking, if but be in for a long time under the situation that internal-external temperature difference alters a great deal, be easy to occur demulsifying phenomenon, because water-in-oil type, in be water mutually, under the low situation of temperature, water can change to solid-state direction, volume can increase, and foreign minister's span and oil phase can't provide enough burden power to come the wherein big water of volume change of burden, so cause breakdown of emulsion, oil-water separation.
2. film property problem
Traditional Water-In-Oil mascara generally comes film forming with the effect of wax among the foreign minister, but its toughness is bad, and the eyelashes cere that can fracture in bending causes the film forming failure.
Therefore, this area need be developed mastic and be smeared evenly, good water-proof effect, and the lasting mascara of makeup.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention just provides a kind of mastic and smears evenly, good water-proof effect, and the lasting mascara of makeup.
A first aspect of the present invention provides a kind of mascara, contains styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer, two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol in the described mascara.
Above-mentioned styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer is 5-20 weight %.
Above-mentioned mascara also contains polymethyl methacrylate.
Above-mentioned polymethyl methacrylate is 3-15 weight %.
Above-mentioned pair-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol is the EM97 available from Degussa.Be the EM97 that mascara of the present invention contains styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer and Degussa.
The percentage by weight of above-mentioned EM97 is 1-4 weight %.
Above-mentioned mascara also contains at least a additive, and described additive is selected from the mixture of coloring agent, wetting agent, antiseptic, essence or their combination in any.
Above-mentioned mascara also contains the wax of 3-8 weight %.
Above-mentioned wetting agent is selected from the mixture of silicone oil, glycerol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butanediol or their combination in any.
Above-mentioned silicone oil is selected from dimethyl siloxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane or ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes or their mixture.
A second aspect of the present invention provides the preparation method of above-mentioned mascara, and described preparation method may further comprise the steps:
(1) EM97, styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer and the polymethyl methacrylate of mixing and heat fused wax, Degussa are to form oil phase;
(2) mixing water, lower alcohol, styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer and electrolyte are to form water;
(3) water is slowly joined in the oil phase.
The EM97 of Degussa is two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol.
A third aspect of the present invention provides a kind of mascara product, and described mascara product comprises above-mentioned mascara, holds the container of above-mentioned mascara and is used for above-mentioned mascara is coated to instrument on the eyelashes.
Density agent of the present invention is the nanometer grade powder of macromolecule polyalcohol, and particle diameter is even, and porous or ganoid spheroid can evenly be coated with or be adsorbed on the material on keratose surface.For example: polymethyl methacrylate, polyamide 12 or nylon 12.
Emulsifying agent of the present invention is two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol.
Film former of the present invention refers to itself or can particularly form material continuous and that adhesiveness is filmed at horn at the support face in the presence of coalescents.
Percentage by weight of the present invention is the percentage by weight of each material in whole mascara.
In order to solve above several problem, we are to the composition of conventional formulation, and technology etc. are reformed, and adopt brand-new raw material to promote the effect of product, and simplify technology, reduce cost.Concrete technical solution is:
1. adopt the novel emulsion system
At the bad problem of makeup effect, we take to reduce the way of vegetable wax, and we adopt Cera Flava to finish as the function of original vegetable wax, also are greatly improved on dispersibility and intermiscibility problem.
Waterproof effect, we solve from two aspects, and the first, change the character of whole system, become present silicone oil bag aqueous systems by original oil-in-water system, fundamentally solving water hydrophilic problem easily outside, outside silicone oil is strong hydrophobic group mutually.The second, we select for use macromonomer copolymer styrene/acrylic acid/methyl-prop diluted acid ammonium salt copolymer that film-formation result is provided, and the pinning silicone oil that the network structure of hinge more can be firm and the framework of product reach waterproof effect.
Adopt unconventional vegetable wax molding system, what replace is styrene/acrylic acid/methyl-prop diluted acid ammonium salt copolymer and polymethyl methacrylate compound system, have and possess cancellated copolymer pinning polymethyl methacrylate spheroid powder, allow it be evenly distributed in the surface of eyelashes, and possesses certain elasticity after this copolymer film forming, eyelashes can effectively keep the effect of finalizing the design in knee-action.
The water in oil emulsification system of silicon can better pin moisture, remedies the shortcoming that mastic is done easily.
Other aspects of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art owing to the disclosure of this paper.
The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.
Description of drawings
The picture of Fig. 1 embodiment of the invention 2 under Electronic Speculum;
The mascara of Fig. 2 embodiment of the invention 3 is coated in the effect on the eyelashes;
The specific embodiment
Density agent of the present invention is the nanometer grade powder of macromolecule polyalcohol, and particle diameter is even, and porous or ganoid spheroid can evenly be coated with or be adsorbed on the material on keratose surface.For example: polymethyl methacrylate, polyamide 12 or nylon 12.Preferred polymethyl methacrylate.
Emulsifying agent of the present invention is two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol.The EM97 of preferred Degussa.
Film former of the present invention is for referring to itself or can particularly form material continuous and that adhesiveness is filmed at horn at the support face in the presence of coalescents.
Can contain at least a coloring agent in the mascara, described coloring agent generally accounts for the 1-20% of mascara, preferred 10-15%.Coloring agent can be versicolor, and is inorganic or organic.Inorganic colourant generally is selected from ferrum oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromic oxide gel and barba hispanica, chromium oxide etc.Toner generally is selected from white carbon black and based on the varnish stain of carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.Coloring agent also can be pearlescent flake, generally by natural or compound mica as ground, be used as coating with metal-oxides such as silicon dioxide or stannum oxide or slaine, change the outward appearance color by the thickness of coating, perhaps the PET material is as coloring agent.
Can also comprise wetting agent, antiseptic, essence, vitamin etc. in the mascara of the present invention.Wetting agent can be selected from the mixture of carbamide, two glycerol oxirane, glycerol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butanediol or their combination in any.
Can comprise the wax class in the mascara of the present invention as the density agent, the wax class comprises vegetable wax, animal wax, mineral wax or synthetic wax.Vegetable wax comprises: Brazil wax, candelilla wax, haze tallow etc.; Mineral wax comprises: paraffin, microwax, ceresin etc.; Synthetic wax comprises: synthetic brazil wax, Tissuemat E, synthetic candelilla wax etc.
The oils and fats that can comprise in the mascara of the present invention is silicone oil series: dimethyl siloxane, polymethylphenyl siloxane fluid, containing hydrogen silicone oil, alkyl-silicone oil, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane.
Can add the length that fiber improves eyelashes in right amount according to different demands in the mascara of the present invention.
Antiseptic generally can be selected methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethyl hydroxybenzoate, propylparaben, nipalgin isobutyl ester and its esters, phenoxyethanol, imidazolidinyl urea etc. and their any mixture.
Essence generally selects oil-soluble or soluble perfume all can.
Those skilled in the art can add these optional chemical compounds as required, so that the interpolation of these compositions can or can not influence the beneficial effect of mascara of the present invention substantially.
The traditional mascara formulation of table 1 (be example with O/W) (Comparative Examples 1)
This mascara preparation process is as follows:
1. with A heat phase to 83 ℃, all fusing stirs;
2. with B heat phase to 83 ℃, C is added to the B phase, stirs, three rollers grind three times, mix homogeneously, recovery temperature to 83 ℃
3. with B, the C mixed phase in the time of 83 ℃, slowly join A mutually in, and homogenizing 5 minutes;
4. E is added in the ABC emulsion homogenizing 3 minutes, and was incubated 30 minutes, be cooled to 45 ℃ again
5. add the D phase, stir discharging.
Table 2 mascara (embodiment 1-3:W/SI)
Figure BSA00000158200600052
Figure BSA00000158200600061
In order to prepare mascara of the present invention, at first with A heat phase to 83 ℃, all fusing stirs; Then A is taken out mutually part and C phase mix homogeneously, and three rollers grind more than three times, join again A mutually in, stir; Then, with B heat phase to 83 ℃, mix homogeneously, slowly join (A+C) mutually in, homogenizing 8 minutes; Add the D phase at last, stir, lower the temperature 35 ℃ discharging.
(Eonik degussa (china) co. ltd), is two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol to EM97 available from Evonik Degussa (China) Co., Ltd..
Styrene/acrylic acid/methyl-prop diluted acid ammonium salt copolymer available from because of safe polymer (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. (INTER POLYMER CO, LTD), marque: 5609.
Cera Flava is available from German Ka Er company limited (KAHL﹠amp; Co.), marque: 8044 BEES WAX.
Polymethyl methacrylate is available from Tianjin elder generation photoinitiator chemical company limited trade name: the PMMA powder.
Test case 1
(1) cutaneous safety
Wax and the oils and fats in the more employing mineral of original formulation source, chemical stability does not have silicone oil strong, and the paraffin content of beary metal in mineral source forms a kind of potential safety hazard than higher to consumer, oils and the emulsifying agent of new prescription all adopt the silicone oil product, the security performance height.Randomly draw new prescription and produce 3 batches of row of sample and detect (" cosmetics health standard "---2007), content of beary metal is:
Test item Embodiment 1 Embodiment 2 Embodiment 3 Detect lower bound
Plumbous (Pb) <5.0 <5.0 <5.0 5.0
Hydrargyrum (Hg) <0.1 <0.1 <0.1 0.1
Arsenic (As) <0.5 <0.5 <0.5 0.5
(2) skin irritation test:
Randomly draw 30 of experimenters, use above-mentioned 3 mascaras that new prescription is produced, each product experimental period is a week, finds that 30 personnel all do not have irritated the reaction.
Heat-resisting and the cold tolerance of test case 2 mastic
Experimental apparatus: 1. electro-heating standing-temperature cultivator (go up the grand instrument and equipment company limited of Nereid, GNP9080 constant incubator): precision ± 1 ℃ 1
2. thermometer: precision ± 0.5 ℃ 1
Experimental implementation: in advance electro-heating standing-temperature cultivator is adjusted to desired temperature (45 ℃ and 65 ℃), testing sample is got 10ML inject the 20ML teat glass, vertically put into constant incubator, take out at the appointed time and observe.
Project Comparative Examples 1 New prescription (embodiment 3)
Thermally-stabilised 45 ℃ stable (48H) 65 ℃ stable (72H)
Cold-resistant -5 ℃ stable (48H) -5 ℃ stable (72H)
Centrifugal 2500 commentaries on classics were stablized in 10 minutes 3000 commentaries on classics were stablized in 30 minutes
The emulsification system that new formula technique adopts is different from original formula system fully, and product stability is better.
Test case 3 dense lasting effects
Waterproof effect test: evenly coat on the plastics false eyelashes, observed in 10 minutes and 30 minutes with the tap water flushing
Project Comparative Examples 1 New prescription (embodiment 2)
Dense effect 3 times 6 times
Lasting effect 2 hours 5 hours
Waterproof effect Cold water flush 10 minutes Cold water flush 30 minutes
What the new prescription of the present invention adopted the dense effect of the growth of eyelashes is that non-traditional vegetable wax or mineral wax reach and namely adopt polymethyl methacrylate spheroid powder, the picture of embodiment 2 under Electronic Speculum as shown in Figure 1, be uniform spheroid, the smooth surface particle diameter mainly is distributed in 10 μ m, this product can well composed the surface at eyelashes, form the outward appearance skeleton of mascara, make mascara on eyelashes, form effective adventitia, increase the diameter of eyelashes, make the eyelashes outward appearance more dense and slender, thereby make consumer satisfaction.
The effect of the functional powder of embodiment 3 on eyelashes as shown in Figure 2, the mascara after the improvement is in properties of product, simplifies technology, energy savings improves on the technological element of a product and the result of use and all improves a lot, its effect that is coated on the eyelashes is seen Fig. 2.
All quote in this application as a reference at all documents that the present invention mentions, just quoted as a reference separately as each piece document.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after having read above-mentioned teachings of the present invention, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims institute restricted portion equally.

Claims (6)

1. mascara, it is characterized in that, contain in the described mascara 5-20 weight % styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer, 1-4 weight % two-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol, 3-15 weight % polymethyl methacrylate, 3-8 weight % wax; Described mascara also contains at least a additive, and described additive is selected from the mixture of coloring agent, wetting agent, antiseptic, essence or their combination in any.
2. according to the described mascara of claim 1, it is characterized in that, described pair-polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/14 dimethiconol is the EM97 available from Degussa.
3. according to the described mascara of claim 1, described wetting agent is selected from the mixture of silicone oil, glycerol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butanediol or their combination in any.
4. according to the described mascara of claim 3, described silicone oil is selected from dimethyl siloxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane or ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes or their mixture.
5. the preparation method of the described mascara of claim 2, described preparation method comprises step:
(1) EM97, styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer and the polymethyl methacrylate of mixing and heat fused wax, Degussa are to form oil phase;
(2) mixing water, lower alcohol, styrene/acrylic/ammonium methacrylate salt copolymer and electrolyte are to form water;
(3) water is slowly joined in the oil phase.
6. a mascara product is characterized in that, comprises claim 1 or 2 described mascaras, holds the container of described mascara and described mascara is coated to instrument on the eyelashes.
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FR2984132B1 (en) * 2011-12-20 2014-08-01 Oreal PIGMENT COMPOSITION BASED ON PARTICULAR ACRYLIC POLYMER AND SILICONE COPOLYMER, COLORING PROCESS
FR2984143B1 (en) 2011-12-20 2014-07-11 Oreal PROCESS FOR APPLYING A PARTICULAR ACRYLIC POLYMER PIGMENT COLORING COMPOSITION AND SILICONE COPOLYMER, AND APPROPRIATE DEVICE
FR2992559B1 (en) 2012-06-29 2014-06-20 Oreal BILOKE PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS
CN103655386A (en) * 2012-09-04 2014-03-26 浙江美雪化妆品有限公司 Liquid eyeliner
CN103494717B (en) * 2013-08-16 2015-03-25 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 Non-irritant mascara cream and preparation method thereof
CN108201514B (en) * 2016-12-17 2021-09-03 上海明轩化妆品科技有限公司 Starch mascara and preparation method thereof
CN106726766B (en) * 2016-12-24 2019-12-24 杭州心悦化妆品有限公司 Mascara and preparation method thereof
CN107028776A (en) * 2017-05-02 2017-08-11 广州市聚吉科绿色化学共性技术研究院有限公司 A kind of mascara
CN107374982A (en) * 2017-06-22 2017-11-24 中山市美源化妆品有限公司 A kind of block mascara formulation
CN108785116B (en) * 2018-07-27 2021-06-04 安科化妆品(浙江)有限公司 Mascara and preparation method thereof

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CN1342448A (en) * 2000-08-03 2002-04-03 莱雅公司 Mascara containing vinyl lactam
CN101711727A (en) * 2008-09-30 2010-05-26 莱雅公司 Eyelash makeup composition and process comprising the application of two compositions

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CN1342448A (en) * 2000-08-03 2002-04-03 莱雅公司 Mascara containing vinyl lactam
CN101711727A (en) * 2008-09-30 2010-05-26 莱雅公司 Eyelash makeup composition and process comprising the application of two compositions

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