CN101864636B - Woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and production method thereof - Google Patents

Woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and production method thereof Download PDF

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CN101864636B
CN101864636B CN201010225250.7A CN201010225250A CN101864636B CN 101864636 B CN101864636 B CN 101864636B CN 201010225250 A CN201010225250 A CN 201010225250A CN 101864636 B CN101864636 B CN 101864636B
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yarn
hydrophilic
fabric
twill
single thread
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CN101864636A (en
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张玉高
周立明
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and a production method thereof. The front and back sides of the woven fabric of the invention have different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties; the back side is mainly provided with two or more stranded yarns formed by twisting water-refusing single yarns and hydrophilic single yarns; and the front side is mainly provided with the hydrophilic yarns. The front and back sides of the woven fabric have different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties so a 'pushing and pulling' effect for water or sweat is generated. The back side of the fabric has hydrophobic property while maintaining a small hydrophilic property, so the water or sweat can be rapidly transmitted to the front side of the fabric and steamed, therefore realizing the function of guiding the sweat on single direction. When user sweats, the fabric is not next to the skin and will dry soon.

Description

A kind of woven and production method thereof with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function
Technical field
The invention provides a kind of woven and production method thereof with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function, belong to textile dyeing and finishing technical field.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly and the development of articles of dress of people's living standard, comfortableness, the pursuit functional and each side such as outward appearance and feel of consumer to clothing is more and more higher.Therefore, produce not only comfortable but also there is certain functional fabric and clothing is the development trend of textile industry from now on.
Natural fabric, particularly pure cotton fabric, its comfortableness and the feature of environmental protection are subject to consumer's favor deeply.Textile fiber has good hygroscopicity, but will be next to the skin after moisture absorption, makes wearer feel uncomfortable.Therefore produce and there is moisture absorbing and sweat releasing and quick-drying function, fabric comfortable and easy to wear, dry and comfortable, good hand touch have good practicality.
In order to overcome cotton textiles or the blending clothes taking cotton as main component problem next to the skin after perspiration, improve the moist heat between skin and clothing while perspiration, develop in recent years a series of products.Wherein most often adopt the reverse side of fibers material as knitted fabric, the textile material of positive employing.Reverse side fibers material, for example polypropylene fine denier silk, Manufacturing Pet Fine Filaments, and the foreign fiber etc. with groove structure has good wet transmitting performance, but water conservation not itself, thus sweat can be transferred to rapidly fabric face and rapidly diffusion reach the effect of quick-drying.What " Dri-Fit " product of NIKE company adopted is exactly this method.
Chinese patent ZL200510061285.0 " all cotton hydroscopic fast-drying knitted fabric and production method thereof " discloses a kind of production method of the knitted cotton fabric with unidirectional sweat function.It is mainly that water treatment yarn is refused in employing and hydrophilic treatment yarn forms the hydrophobic surface with certain hydrophilic point at knitted fabric reverse side, and outer fabric layer is hydrophily, thereby reaches the effect of intelligent quick-drying.But this patented method can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Chinese patent ZL200410027297.7 " production method of the textile quick-drying smart fabric of Special Finishing " discloses a kind of production method of the knitted cotton thing with unidirectional sweat function.It is mainly that water treatment yarn is refused in employing and hydrophilic treatment yarn forms the hydrophobic surface with certain hydrophilic point at knitted fabric reverse side, and outer fabric layer is hydrophily, thereby reaches the effect of intelligent quick-drying.But this patented method can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Chinese patent ZL200610035051.3 " that a kind of ectonexine of comfortable quick-drying has is hydrophilic, fabric and the production method thereof of hydrophobic performance difference " discloses and has adopted the method for carrying out hydrophobic coating or hydrophobic stamp at fabric backing to reach the two-sided opposite sex, the effect of unidirectional perspire.The method of this patent not only needs special coating or printing equipment, simultaneously higher to the technical requirement of coating or stamp.The thickness of coating or stamp must be able to accurately be controlled.Thickness is too little, and washability is poor; Thickness too conference affects the hydrophilicity of fabric face, thereby can reduce the unidirectional sweat performance of fabric.
The method that another section of Chinese patent application " production method of the functional woven fabric of textile unidirectional sweat " (publication number CN 101463566A) adopts the hydrophilic dyeing of whole warp thread, part weft yarn to refuse water dyeing reaches the effect of unidirectional perspire.But because adopting the method for hydrophilic yarn and the picking of water-proof yarn interval, easily there is wrong yarn problem in the time weaving in this patented method.The hydrophilic of fabric backing presents opposite sex distribution at longitude and latitude both direction simultaneously, and when perspiration, sweat mainly spreads along fabric backing broadwise hydrophilic yarn, and can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Because the hydrophilic point of reverse side in the fabric of prior art is not equally distributed, so can not disperse equably sweat in the time wearing, thereby can not obtain sufficient comfort and good outward appearance, so people require further improvement the structure of fabric and obtain to simplify weaving process the even diffusion and the evaporation that are more conducive to sweat, improve the fabric of snugness of fit and aesthetic property.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, provide a kind of convenient for production, woven and the production method thereof of what function was good the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function.
The invention provides a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function, it is characterized in that, the tow sides of described fabric have hydrophily and hydrophobic difference, described reverse side is mainly arranged with by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn, because grain cross only has a kind of yarn, so hydrophilic point and refuse water spot and present and be uniformly distributed; Described front is mainly arranged with hydrophilic yarn.Fabric of the present invention can be also that described reverse side is all by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; Described front is all hydrophilic yarn.
Weft yarn in woven of the present invention is by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; The warp thread of described fabric is hydrophilic yarn, and in fabric of the present invention, the number of front riser is greater than the number of latitude floating-point, and the institutional framework of fabric is mainly twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
The invention provides a kind of production method of the woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function, the method comprises with hydrophilic yarn and by hydrophilic single thread with refuse the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread or multistrand yarn carries out look and knits woven operation.Knit in woven operation at described look, warp thread adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 shows the situation of sweat in the reverse side diffusion of different fabrics.
Fig. 2 shows the situation of sweat in the diffusion of the front of different fabrics.
Wherein:
Fabric 1: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn all adopts water-proof yarn;
Fabric 2: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and the ratio of hydrophilic yarn are 4: 1;
Fabric 3: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and the ratio of hydrophilic yarn are 2: 1;
Fabric 4: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of weft yarn water-proof yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 1: 1;
Fabric 5: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn all adopts refuses water single thread and the hydrophilic single thread yarn after twisted thigh also.
Detailed description of the invention
The definition of each term
" refusing water single thread " of mentioning in the present invention or " water-proof yarn " refer to have hydrophobic yarn, it comprises synthetic fiber and through refusing the cotton yarn of water treatment, wherein synthetic fiber are selected from polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester, nylon, polyurethane, polyvinyl acetate, mineral fibres etc.The present invention preferably the cotton yarn through refusing water treatment for refusing water single thread or water-proof yarn.
" refusing water treatment " of mentioning in the present invention refers to the technology using according to routine, with the processing of refusing water consistent lubricant and carrying out, the described water consistent lubricant of refusing is the conventional WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent using in this area, for example, can select methylol stearic amide, etherificate polyhydroxy melamine, containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or Organic fluoride emulsion.Wherein said methylol fatty acid class hydrophobicity auxiliary agent is preferably long-chain methylol fatty acid class, and its carbon chain lengths is preferably 14~28 carbon; Described containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion can be the containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of CATION silicon system, can be also dimethyl silicone polymer containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or the Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane Fluid emulsion etc. with active group; Described Organic fluoride emulsion is selected from the Synergistic mixtures of fluorine-containing alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion or fluorine carbon and hydrocarbon class.
" hydrophilic single thread " and " hydrophilic yarn " mentioned in the present invention can be identical or different, and it is selected from the natural fabrics such as cotton, flax, ramie, silk or the natural fabric through hydrophilic treatment.The present invention is preferably hydrophilic single thread and hydrophilic yarn through the cotton yarn of hydrophilic treatment, and wherein hydrophilic yarn can be hydrophilic single thread or its folded yarn.
" hydrophilic treatment " of the present invention refers to the technology using according to routine, the processing of carrying out with hydrophilic consistent lubricant, described hydrophilic consistent lubricant is the conventional hydrophily auxiliary agent using in this area, for example, can select the derivative of fatty amine, fatty amine, silicone based or their combination.Preferred hydrophily selection of auxiliary Hydrophilic Silicone Micro Emulsion, Hydrophilic Silicone Micro Emulsion can be selected polyether-modified oxirane or the silicone softening agent of Polymerization of Propylene Oxide.
In the present invention, warp thread adopts through dyeing and making the yarn after hydrophilic treatment.Warp thread can be single thread, can be also strand.Weft yarn adopts bifilar or multistrand yarn.Single thread divides cylinder processing after dyeing, wherein a part of yarn is carried out to hydrophilic treatment, and another part yarn is refused to water treatment.To carrying out and twisted thigh through hydrophilic treatment and the single thread of refusing after water treatment.Wherein double strand yarn is that 1 strand of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 1 strand are refused water treatment single thread twisted thigh; Three strands of yarns adopt 1 strand of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 2 strands to refuse water treatment single thread twisted thigh, or 2 strands of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 1 strand are refused water treatment single thread twisted thigh.
Yarn hydrophilic treatment adopts following technique: yarn is processed in joining the aqueous solution that concentration is 0.5~10g/l hydrophily auxiliary agent completing after dyeing and fixation.After being disposed, directly dry.The derivative of hydrophily selection of auxiliary fatty amine, fatty amine, silicone based or their combination.Preferred hydrophily selection of auxiliary Hydrophilic Silicone Micro Emulsion, Hydrophilic Silicone Micro Emulsion can be selected polyether-modified oxirane or the silicone softening agent of Polymerization of Propylene Oxide.Its consumption is 0.5~10 gram of hydrophilic softener of every liter for the treatment of fluid, handled cotton yarn and described containing the weight ratio (bath raio) between the treatment fluid of softener generally between 1: 5~1: 10, processing time is 10~60 minutes, and treatment temperature is 30 DEG C~100 DEG C.Cotton yarn after treatment is 80 DEG C~150 DEG C oven dry.
Yarn is refused water treatment and is adopted following technique: yarn is processed in joining the WATER REPELLENCY adjuvant water solution that concentration is 0.5~100g/l completing after dyeing and fixation.After being disposed, directly dry.WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent can be selected methylol stearic amide, etherificate polyhydroxy melamine, containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or Organic fluoride emulsion.Wherein said methylol fatty acid class hydrophobicity auxiliary agent is preferably long-chain methylol fatty acid class, and its carbon chain lengths is preferably 14~28 carbon; Described containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion can be the containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of CATION silicon system, can be also dimethyl silicone polymer containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or the Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane Fluid emulsion etc. with active group; Described Organic fluoride emulsion is selected from the Synergistic mixtures of fluorine-containing alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion or fluorine carbon and hydrocarbon class.The consumption of WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent is 0.5~100 gram of WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent of every liter for the treatment of fluid, handled cotton yarn and described containing the weight ratio (bath raio) between the treatment fluid of WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent generally between 1: 5~1: 10, processing time is 10~60 minutes, and treatment temperature is 30 DEG C~100 DEG C.WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent cotton yarn after treatment is 80 DEG C~150 DEG C oven dry.
Sizing: can select starching or exempt from starching according to actual kind demand.For exempting from, starching kind is follow-up can replace destarch operation with one washing step.
Weave: carry out according to the conventional yarn-dyed fabric technological process of production.
In fabric of the present invention, the thicker and loose fabric of structure has good two-sided different in nature effect conventionally.On the contrary, frivolous, hard-packed fabric is because the diffusion velocity of moisture or sweat is slower, and affects the effect of the two-sided opposite sex and quick-drying.The latitude floating number of fabric face is fewer, and the latitude floating number of fabric backing is more, and effect is better.Thereby the selected fabric of the present invention is mainly twill structure, satin weave structure and multi-arm structure.The relative plain weave structure of this kind fabric structure is more loose, and presents certain otherness through weft yarn in the distribution on fabric two sides, thereby can get a desired effect.Preferred twill structure is 4/4 twill, 4/1 twill, and 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill, 2/1 herringbone is oblique, and 3/1 herringbone is oblique etc.; Preferred satin weave structure is 5 piece 3 and flies Warp Satin, and 5 piece 2 flies Warp Satin; Preferred multi-arm structure is twill or the satin weave multi-arm at the bottom of plain weave.
Rear arrangement: rear arrangement carried out according to the flow process of grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → preshrunk.Wherein grey cloth pre-setting temperature is 130~190 DEG C.Preferably, adopt 140~170 DEG C.The object of grey cloth pre-setting is to improve the durability of water-proof yarn water repellency.Singe, destarch, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment process according to conventional yarn-dyed fabric production technology.Part kind can adopt exempts from sizing technique production, can exempt destarch operation, and replace with together common washing simultaneously.Can according to actual needs, carry out Liquid Ammonia Treatment to fabric.Sizing adopts hydrophilic softener, to ensure that fabric has good moisture pick-up properties.
The fabric weft yarn of producing so is mainly arranged in fabric backing, because weft yarn is by hydrophilic single thread and refuses the water single thread strand forming of pooling capital, thus hydrophilic point and hydrophobic evenly distributed at fabric backing; Warp thread is mainly arranged in fabric face, and because warp thread is all hydrophilic yarn, thereby fabric face shows good hydrophily.Such structure has ensured the moisture pick-up properties that fabric backing is good, and sweat can be absorbed by hydrophilic point fast and be transferred to fabric face and rapid diffusion evaporation, thereby reaches the effect of quick-drying.Simultaneously because the reverse side of fabric contains a certain proportion of hydrophobic point, thereby greatly reduce the adhesion between clothes and skin in the time perspiring, improved snugness of fit.
Compared with the prior art woven of the present invention and manufacture method thereof, have following advantage:
1, fabric weft yarn adopts a kind of yarn, compares with the method for water-proof yarn interval picking with adopting hydrophilic yarn, has avoided the wrong yarn problem very easily occurring in the time weaving.Especially when patterns of fabric complexity, when color is more, more easily make mistakes.
2, compare with the method for water-proof yarn interval picking with adopting hydrophilic yarn, hydrophilic point, the hydrophobic point of fabric backing of the present invention are uniformly distributed, thereby avoid clothing to become wet rear sweat at absorption sweat and mainly spread the inhomogeneous situation of appearance diffusion along the direction of hydrophilic yarn, more be conducive to even diffusion and the evaporation of sweat, improved comfortableness and the aesthetic property of dress.
3, the method for coating or stamp needs special coating or printing equipment, and because woven itself is very frivolous, higher to the control difficulty of coating or stamp thickness.The too large moisture pick-up properties that affects fabric backing of coating or stamp thickness; The DeGrain of the too little two-sided opposite sex of thickness, affects snugness of fit.And method of the present invention does not need special coating or printing equipment, utilize general yarn-dyed fabric mill's existing equipment to produce.
Further illustrate the present invention in the mode of embodiment below, but the present invention never only limits to the technical scheme of embodiment.
Embodiment mono-
Fabric warp thread adopts 40s cotton yarn, and weft yarn adopts 80s/2 cotton yarn.Adopt 2/1 twill left to right weave.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
By according to common process through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and the 40s cotton yarn of fixation treatment to add concentration be in hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft HWS (GE company) aqueous solution of 4g/l, process 30 minutes at 40 DEG C, by weight, cotton yarn is 1:10 with the ratio (bath raio) of the hydrophily consistent lubricant aqueous solution.Yarn after treatment is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
The preparation of weft yarn:
By textile 80s/1 single thread according to common process carry out kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and fixation after divide cylinder.Get the wherein yarn of half and carry out hydrophilic soft oil processing, to obtain hydrophily single thread.The preparation condition of hydrophily single thread is identical with the preparation process condition of the warp thread of the present embodiment.
Get above-mentioned second half yarn through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and fixation after the textile single thread of 80s/1 refuse water treatment.Concrete steps are: by according to common process through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and the 80s/1 cotton yarn of fixation treatment joins in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) that concentration is 6g/l, process 30 minutes at 60 DEG C; bath raio is 1: 10, and the cotton yarn of handling is through 130 DEG C of hf dryings.
By textile the above-mentioned 80s/1 through hydrophilic soft oil processing single thread with above-mentioned through refusing the textile single thread of 80s/1 of water consistent lubricant processing, to carry out twisted and plied on yarn two-for-one twister be 80s/2 cotton yarn.
Weave: the grey cloth that is made into 3/1 twill left to right structure according to conventional method starching → warping → weaving process.
Rear arrangement: grey cloth is carried out to pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → shrinking processes.Pre-setting temperature is 150 DEG C, speed of a motor vehicle 50m/min.Singe, destarch, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.Rear sizing adopts the hydrophilic softener Ultraphil DCW (Huntsman company) of 30g/l.
Embodiment bis-
Fabric warp thread adopts 80s/2 cotton yarn, and weft yarn adopts 80s/2 cotton yarn.Adopt the oblique weave of 3/1 herringbone.
The preparation of warp thread:
80s/2 cotton yarn kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, cotton yarn being added to concentration after fixation completes is in the aqueous solution of the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Ultraphil of 4g/l DCW (Huntsman company), process 30 minutes at 40 DEG C, bath raio is 1: 10.Yarn after treatment is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
The preparation of weft yarn:
80s single thread (single thread 1) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
80s single thread (single thread 2) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/2 yarn in 1/1 ratio sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of the present embodiment.
Single thread 2 to refuse water treatment be carrying out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, after color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) of 6g/l, process 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 DEG C, and bath raio is 1: 10.The cotton yarn of handling is through 130 DEG C of hf dryings.
Weave: employing is exempted from sizing technique and weaved, and fabric construction is that 3/1 herringbone is oblique.
Rear arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → shrinking processes.Pre-setting temperature is 160 DEG C, speed of a motor vehicle 60m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.Sizing adopts the DCW Conc. (Huntsman company) of 30g/l.
Embodiment tri-
Fabric warp thread adopts the mono-cotton yarn of 40s, and weft yarn adopts 80s/3 cotton yarn.Adopt 3/1 left twill weave.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, after fixation completes, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of the hydrophilic consistent lubricant NT-H550 of 3g/l (Nanotex company), processes 20 minutes in 40 DEG C, bath raio is 1: 8.Yarn after treatment is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
The preparation of weft yarn:
The mono-cotton yarn of 80s (single thread 1) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
The mono-cotton yarn of 80s (single thread 2) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/3 yarn according to 1/2 ratio sth. made by twisting
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of the present embodiment.
Single thread 2 to refuse water treatment be carrying out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, after color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant Olephobol CO (Huntsman company) of 6g/l, process 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 DEG C, and bath raio is 1: 8.The cotton yarn of handling is through 130 DEG C of hf dryings.
Weave: be made into 3/1 left twill structure according to conventional starching → warping → weaving process
Rear arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → shrinking processes.Pre-setting temperature is 170 DEG C, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.Sizing adopts the NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l.
Embodiment tetra-
Fabric warp thread adopts 100s/2 single thread, and weft yarn adopts 100s/2 yarn.Adopt 5 piece 3 to fly through face satin weave weave.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, after fixation completes, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft of 3g/l JSS (GE company), processes 30 minutes bath raio 1: 10 for 40 DEG C.Yarn after treatment is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
The preparation of weft yarn:
The mono-cotton yarn of 100s (single thread 1) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
The mono-cotton yarn of 100s (single thread 2) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 100s/2 yarn in 1/1 ratio sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of the present embodiment.
Single thread 2 to refuse water treatment be carrying out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, after color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant Olephobol CO (Huntsman company) of 6g/l, process 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 DEG C, bath raio 1: 8.The water-proof yarn of handling is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
Weave: adopt and exempt from sizing technique production, fabric construction is 5 piece 3 and flies Warp Satin structure.
Rear arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → shrinking processes.Pre-setting temperature is 170 DEG C, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.Sizing adopts the NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l.
Embodiment five
Fabric warp thread adopts 60s single thread, and weft yarn adopts 80s/2 yarn.3/1 twill multi-arm structure at the bottom of employing plain weave.
The preparation of warp thread: kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to normal process, after fixation completes, adding concentration is in the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft of 4g/l HWS (GE company) aqueous solution, processes 30 minutes bath raio 1: 10 for 40 DEG C.Yarn after treatment is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
The preparation of weft yarn:
80s cotton yarn (single thread 1) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant → oven dry of fixation → mistake
80s cotton yarn (single thread 2) kiering → bleaching → dyeing → soaping, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/2 yarn according to 1/1 ratio sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of the present embodiment.
Single thread 2 to refuse water treatment be carrying out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, after color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) of 6g/l, process 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 DEG C, bath raio 1: 10.The water-proof yarn of handling is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 DEG C.
Weave: be made into 3/1 twill multi-arm structure at the bottom of plain weave according to conventional starching → warping → weaving process.
Rear arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → sizing → shrinking processes.Pre-setting temperature is 170 DEG C, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.Sizing adopts the NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l.
Test case: the evaluation of fabric quick-drying effect
Prepare different fabric 1~5:
Fabric 1: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn all adopts water-proof yarn;
Fabric 2: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and the ratio of hydrophilic yarn are 4: 1;
Fabric 3: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and the ratio of hydrophilic yarn are 2: 1;
Fabric 4: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and the ratio of hydrophilic yarn are 1: 1;
Fabric 5: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, weft yarn all adopts refuses water single thread and the hydrophilic single thread yarn after twisted thigh also.
Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 have shown that respectively sweat is in the double-edged spread condition of different fabrics.Wherein Fig. 1 is fabric backing, i.e. the one side of fabric and skin contact; Fig. 2 is the front of fabric, the one side that fabric contacts with external environment.The institutional framework of five kinds of fabrics 1~5 all adopts 2/1 twill left to right of 120x90.All adopt 80/2 purified cotton yarns through weft yarn, and through the hydrophilic of weft yarn with to refuse water treatment identical with embodiment 1.
Can find out for fabric 1~4 from Fig. 1 and 2, human body is in the time perspiring, and first sweat is absorbed and spread along hydrophilic yarn by the hydrophilic yarn of fabric backing, and sweat is transferred to fabric face by the intertwined point through weft yarn simultaneously.Can there is change color absorbing after sweat in hydrophilic yarn, and water-proof yarn is owing to not absorbing sweat, and color can not change.Thereby there will be pattern as shown in the figure at the reverse side of fabric, not attractive in appearance while dress.The color of fabric 5 shows very even.
Table 1 is depicted as above-mentioned different fabric 1-5 according to the result of AATCC-79 and the test of M & S P134 method of testing.
Table 1
Can find out from the data of table 1, fabric 5 of the present invention is obviously better than fabric 1-4 aspect absorption speed, and aspect evaporation rate, also has good performance at 30 minutes.

Claims (11)

1. one kind has the woven of the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function, it is characterized in that, the tow sides of described fabric have hydrophily and hydrophobic difference, and described fabric backing is mainly arranged with by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or by hydrophilic single thread with refuse the twisted and plied multistrand yarn obtaining of water single thread; Described fabric face is mainly arranged with hydrophilic yarn.
2. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 1, wherein said fabric backing is by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; Described fabric face is hydrophilic yarn.
3. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, the weft yarn of described fabric is by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; The warp thread of described fabric is hydrophilic yarn.
4. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, the number of the front riser of described fabric is greater than the number of latitude floating-point.
5. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 3, wherein, the number of the front riser of described fabric is greater than the number of latitude floating-point.
6. according to a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function described in claim 1,2 or 5, wherein, the institutional framework of described fabric is twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
7. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 3, wherein, the institutional framework of described fabric is twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
8. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 4, wherein, the institutional framework of described fabric is twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
9. a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 6, wherein, described twill structure adopts 4/4 twill structure, 4/1 twill structure, 3/1 twill structure, 2/1 twill structure, 3/1 herringbone biassed fabric or 2/1 herringbone biassed fabric; Described satin weave structure adopts 5 piece 3 and flies Warp Satin structure or 5 piece 2 to fly Warp Satin structure; Described multi-arm structure adopts the structure of the twill multi-arm structure taking plain weave the end of as or the satin weave multi-arm taking twill the end of as.
10. according to a kind of woven with the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function described in claim 7 or 8, wherein, described twill structure adopts 4/4 twill structure, 4/1 twill structure, 3/1 twill structure, 2/1 twill structure, 3/1 herringbone biassed fabric or 2/1 herringbone biassed fabric; Described satin weave structure adopts 5 piece 3 and flies Warp Satin structure or 5 piece 2 to fly Warp Satin structure; Described multi-arm structure adopts the structure of the twill multi-arm structure taking plain weave the end of as or the satin weave multi-arm taking twill the end of as.
11. 1 kinds have the production method of the woven of the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional sweat, quick-drying function, the method comprise use hydrophilic yarn as warp thread, use by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn obtaining of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn and carry out look as weft yarn and knit woven operation.
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