CN101748543B - Fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101748543B CN101748543B CN200810244476A CN200810244476A CN101748543B CN 101748543 B CN101748543 B CN 101748543B CN 200810244476 A CN200810244476 A CN 200810244476A CN 200810244476 A CN200810244476 A CN 200810244476A CN 101748543 B CN101748543 B CN 101748543B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a fabric and a production process thereof. A yarn forming the fabric has a single-fiber axis-direction outer diameter and irregular thick parts and thin parts, U% is determined by Uster to be 0.8-1.8, and the fiber surface after decrement has a concave and convex structure. In fabric designing, the fabric cover coefficient is maintained by 40-65%, and a simple structure is adopted. By a weaving process and a dyeing machining process, the breathable fabric which has below 60g/m2 of gram weight, below 12 of lightness value L and noble-effect tone and is ultra light is prepared. The fabric can be used as a fashion material of summer suit-dress design.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of ultralight that has, dark color can be dyed, the fabric of ventilative characteristics.
Background technology
As the lining in summer, polyester fabric has been brought into play its distinctive advantage.But Along with people's is to the improve of lining performance requirement; Existing lining is difficult in feel; Satisfy people's demand on weight and the visual effect fully, this just needs to adopt new element, novel material; Different Fabric Design theories and new processing method obtain ultralight, the polyester fabric that ventilative and tone has noble effect.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome the deficiency of prior art, a kind of ultralight amount is provided, tone has noble effect, fabric that permeability is good and production technology thereof.
The technical scheme that the present invention adopts is following:
Adopt a kind of filament direction of principal axis to have irregular thick portion and thin portion, fiber surface has the PE yarn of obvious concaveconvex structure, cooperates rational Fabric Design and the special processing method that is fit to this yarn kind, has obtained fabric of the present invention.Following the present invention elaborates.
Fabric of the present invention, the PE yarn of forming this fabric are that filament direction of principal axis external diameter has irregular thick portion and thin portion, fiber surface have tangible concaveconvex structure, Wu Site measures U% between 0.8～1.8, and fiber number is the PE yarn of 20D～120D.
This fabric tissue is three foundation weave or three former alternative constructions.
Owing to adopted filament Wu Site U% between 0.8～1.8; Fiber surface has the yarn of tangible concaveconvex structure after the decrement; Light is produced reflection slowly, and the gained fabric is tested through colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source D65, and brightness L value reaches below 12.The area coverage coefficient of fabric is 40～65%; Mainly reach through Fabric Design; Low-density Fabric Design in Fabric Design, adopting obtains the low fabric of coverage coefficient through the special engineering processing in the process of back then, has guaranteed the gas permeability of fabric; Simultaneously guaranteed that also fabric has the grammes per square metre of ultralight, fabric weight of the present invention is at 60g/m
2Below.
The twist of forming the yarn of fabric of the present invention is 1000～3500T/M, preferred 1500～3500T/M.The sense of dangling that the yarn of the such twist that adopts can improve fabric.
The processing method of fabric of the present invention; The fiber surface that the filament direction of principal axis external diameter of selecting for use during design has irregular thick portion and a thin portion has the PE yarn of obvious concaveconvex structure to be weaved, and the preparatory process before weaving is: twisted filament-warping-and the axle-denting operation of gaiting.In warping process, warping apparatus can be beam warper or Sectional warping machines, and the warping tension force when warping remains on 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D, when warping, can add suitable oil or wax.And the tension force in when axle remains on 0.15CN/D～0.5CN/D, and axle speed is 40m/min～300m/min.Process the beam of a loom that is fit to air-jet loom or Rapier looms or water jet looms by above method.
Because warp thread is the heavy twist yarn, in the machine process, require warp thread is remained certain force of strain on the beam of a loom, tangle winding each other with what prevent warp thread, cause the unclear or broken yarn of opening.
The processing technology of fabric comprises refining, lax engineering, middle typing, alkali decrement, dyeing, the arrangement of dense colorable resin, arrangement typing.Below important engineering is carried out detailed narration.
Loose engineering: because this invention warp thread employing is the heavy twist yarn; In order to eliminate the internal stress of yarn preferably, obtain fluffy soft hand feeling, use as far as possible than prednisone relaxation condition; Lax temperature is: 90 ℃～130 ℃, lax temperature retention time is: 15min～120min.
Middle typing: this engineering is necessary engineering; Mainly act as the uniformity that improves yarn degree of crystallinity; So that improve the uniformity of back engineering decrement, the temperature of middle typing is 160 ℃～220 ℃, the cloth cover effect of engineering and decide with reference to grammes per square metre before the set basis of fabric width; Generally speaking, add 0～10cm on the basis that is set in the preceding engineering door width of cloth of the door width of cloth.
The alkali decrement: the alkali decrement normally improves a kind of method of pliability; In the present invention; The alkali decrement also has important effect to the concaveconvex structure that improves fiber surface, and the concaveconvex structure after the alkali decrement has increased the diffuse reflection of fabric, after dying dark color, can reduce radiative visible energy; Compare with general yarn, can preferentially obtain deep-colour fabric.So engineering is necessary engineering.Reduction rate according to the feel of fabric and decrement after the concave-convex effect of fiber surface confirm that generally selecting reduction rate for use is 0%～40%, preferentially selects for use more than 15%.The judgement of the concave-convex effect of fiber surface is judged through microscopic examination see tangible groove phenomenon whether occurs after the decrement.
Dyeing: can adopt common black dyes to dye during dyeing usually,, can adopt the big heavy colour dyestuff of molecular structure to dye, in order to the needs of the dense colorable resin arrangement of back engineering if will obtain better heavy colour effect.
Stentering forming:, carry out the stentering forming arrangement for the stability of the dense colorable resin finishing engineering of back engineering.This engineering is preferred engineering, when not needing dense colorable resin to put in order, can omit.
The arrangement of dense colorable resin: adopt dense colorable resin that the fabric of dark color is processed, increase the bathochromic effect of fabric, this engineering is for also being preferred engineering, expects and can not need this engineering when requiring when bathochromic effect reaches.The dense colorable resin of low-refraction is meant mixtures such as fluoroplast compound, non-ionic surfactant, silicon compounds, organic solvent, and the relative liquid measure of its consumption is 30g/l-65g/l.
Arrangement typing: for fabric obtains surface effect and good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY preferably; This engineering of arrangement typing is necessary; The same during the arrangement typing with middle setting machine, adopt framing shaping machine, temperature is 130 ℃～200 ℃; The setting of fabric width is in order to guarantee the effect of dense colorable resin arrangement, the fabric width of engineering or suitable tentering before generally keeping.
Fabric ultralight amount of the present invention, tone has noble effect, and permeability is good, is suitable for fashion material of summer suit-dress design.
The specific embodiment:
Embodiment 1:
Use 75D-36F-DTY, its yam surface has concaveconvex structure, and filament direction of principal axis external diameter has irregular thick portion and thin portion; It is 1.2 that Wu Site measures U%, and fiber number is 75D, is organized as plain weave; The longitude and latitude yarn twisting twist is SZ 2800T/M; Through close: 102/IN, filling density: 85/IN, the area coverage coefficient of fabric is 62%.
In preparatory construction, the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 0.25N/D.
Dyeing important engineering of processing and condition:
Loose engineering: temperature: 120 ℃, the time: 35min.
Middle typing: T=200 ℃, fabric width is set on the basis of refining and adds 2cm.
The decrement engineering: according to the feel and the actual conditions of amorphous intermediate appearance cloth, alkali reduction rate actual when decrement is 35%, adopts continuous decrement machine to produce.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine dyeing, dyeing condition: 135 ℃ * 50min, used dyestuff is for disperseing the heavy colour dyestuff, and color is a black.
Dense colorable resin arrangement: select for use the dense resin (Off ロ Application テ one ジ SGN-8 Japan Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd) that dyes of mixtures such as fluoroplast compound, non-ionic surfactant, silicon compounds, organic solvent that fabric is put in order, its use amount is the 50g/l of relative liquid measure.
The arrangement typing: T=190 ℃, V cloth=30m/min.
The fabric weight that above method makes is 53g/m
2, entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source adopts D65, and recording the L value is 9.
Embodiment 2:
Use 50D-72F-DTY, its yam surface has concaveconvex structure, and filament direction of principal axis external diameter has irregular thick portion and thin portion; It is 0.95 that Wu Site measures U%, and fiber number is 51D, is organized as plain weave; The longitude and latitude yarn twisting twist is SZ 3500T/M; Through close: 125/IN, filling density: 100/IN, the area coverage coefficient of fabric is 60%.
In preparatory construction, the tension force of warping and axle remains on about 0.3N/D.
Dyeing important engineering of processing and condition:
Loose engineering: temperature: 120 ℃, the time: 45min.
Middle typing: T=200 ℃, fabric width is set on the basis of refining and adds 2cm.
The decrement engineering: according to the feel of amorphous intermediate appearance cloth actual alkali reduction rate when the decrement is 28%, adopts continuous decrement machine to produce.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine dyeing, dyeing condition: 135 ℃ * 50min, used dyestuff is that common black dyes dyes.
The arrangement typing: T=190 ℃, V cloth=50m/min.
The fabric weight that above method makes is 45g/m
2, entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source adopts D65, and recording the L value is 11.
Embodiment 3:
Only the plain weave with embodiment 1 changes the diversified twill tissue into, and Fabric Design and dyeing process are with embodiment 1.The fabric weight that above method makes is 55g/m
2, entire body colour photometer COLOUR EYE3100 light source adopts D65, and recording the L value is 8.
Claims (8)
1. fabric is characterized in that: the raw yarn of forming this fabric be filament direction of principal axis external diameter have irregular thick portion and thin portion, fiber surface have concaveconvex structure, Wu Site measure U% between 0.8～1.8, fiber number is the PE yarn of 20D～120D.
2. fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: this fabric tissue is three foundation weave or three former alternative constructions.
3. fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the twist of said yarn is 1000～3500T/M.
4. fabric according to claim 3 is characterized in that: the twist of said yarn is 1500～3500T/M.
5. fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the area coverage coefficient of this fabric is 40～65%, and grammes per square metre is below 60g/ ㎡, and brightness L value is below 12.
6. the production technology of the said fabric of claim 1 comprises weaving process and after-processing technology, it is characterized in that: when weaving; Warping tension force is 0.15～0.5cN/D; In the back process, 90～130 ℃ of the temperature of lax engineering, 160～220 ℃ of middle setting temperatures; Alkali reduction rate 0～40%, 130～200 ℃ of arrangement setting temperatures.
7. the production technology of fabric according to claim 6, it is characterized in that: said alkali reduction rate is 15%-40%.
8. the production technology of fabric according to claim 6; It is characterized in that: also put in order in the process of said back through dense colorable resin; Wherein said dense colorable resin is meant the mixture of main fluorine-containing plain resin compound and silicon compounds, and the relative liquid measure of its consumption is 30g/l-65g/l.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN200810244476A CN101748543B (en) | 2008-12-05 | 2008-12-05 | Fabric and production process thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN200810244476A CN101748543B (en) | 2008-12-05 | 2008-12-05 | Fabric and production process thereof |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101748543A CN101748543A (en) | 2010-06-23 |
| CN101748543B true CN101748543B (en) | 2012-10-03 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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| CN200810244476A Active CN101748543B (en) | 2008-12-05 | 2008-12-05 | Fabric and production process thereof |
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| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN101748543B (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102409468B (en) * | 2011-09-07 | 2013-07-31 | 浙江三志纺织有限公司 | Production technology of yarn dyed flame-resistant lightproof fabric |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1400343A (en) * | 2001-07-30 | 2003-03-05 | 东丽株式会社 | Polylactate fiber |
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2008
- 2008-12-05 CN CN200810244476A patent/CN101748543B/en active Active
Patent Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1400343A (en) * | 2001-07-30 | 2003-03-05 | 东丽株式会社 | Polylactate fiber |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| JP特开2001-40537A 2001.02.13 |
| JP特开2002-61031A 2002.02.28 |
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| CN101748543A (en) | 2010-06-23 |
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Effective date of registration: 20160612 Address after: Japan Tokyo central Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1 Patentee after: Toray Industries, Inc. Address before: 226009 Nantong Province Economic and Technological Development Zone, the New South Road, No. 58, No. Patentee before: Toray Fiber Research Institute (China) Co., Ltd. |