CN101709522A - Superfine wool yarn and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
Superfine wool yarn and manufacturing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101709522A CN101709522A CN200910157141A CN200910157141A CN101709522A CN 101709522 A CN101709522 A CN 101709522A CN 200910157141 A CN200910157141 A CN 200910157141A CN 200910157141 A CN200910157141 A CN 200910157141A CN 101709522 A CN101709522 A CN 101709522A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a superfine wool yarn and a manufacturing method thereof. The superfine wool yarn comprises 100-120Nm/2 of yarn counts, 1050-1200t/m of single twist with a twist direction of Z and 480-550t/m of plied twist with a twist direction of S. The manufacturing method comprises the process steps of wool top recombing, primary silver mixing, secondary silver mixing, quartic gilling, triple roving, spun yarn, spooling, doubling, two-for-one twisting, reeling silk, checking and the like. In the invention, raw materials of the superfine wool are selected, and the reasonable yarn counts and the twist are determined at the same time. By adopting some special measures on the spinning process and optimizing the technological parameters, the excellent and low-consumption superfine wool yarn with the yarn counts of 120Nm/2, and the yarn levelness of less than 15 percent and anti-pilling of more than or equal to the third level is successfully manufactured; and the number of the cross-section fibers of the fine yarn is only 28, which is far lower than the limit of the number of 36 in the international standard. The invention not only provides a new yarn product with excellent quality and high cost performance, but also provides a beneficial spinning method for sufficiently utilizing and reasonably developing tight wool resources.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of wool yarn and production method thereof.
Background technology
The slim wool fabric and the fabric that are spun into superfine wool yarn and then are made into superfine wool, careful, soft, consideration, comfortable, not only having fabulous warming moisture-absorbing function, and have the tension force of flexible appropriateness, is the high-grade woolen product that is subjected to city's field boundary and consumer's favor at present deeply.Yet the problem that existing superfine wool yarn spinning technique exists is, because spinning super high counts wool-rich yarn requires wool fibre thin, spun yarn cross section radical is not less than 36, the cost of material height, and superfine wool is rare natural resources, supply falls short of demand in market, thereby limited a large amount of exploitations of product.If use the thicker wool of fiber, then the many easily broken ends of details in the spinning add that mercerising wool fibre cohesive force is poor, and the easy fuzz balls of yarn influences product quality and row yielding.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is,, improve row yielding, serviceability rate and the cost performance of superfine wool fabric product, and a kind of novel superfine wool yarn and production method thereof are provided in order fully, rationally to utilize the superfine wool resource.
The technical solution that realizes above-mentioned purpose is:
A kind of superfine wool yarn is characterized in that: yarn count is 100～120Nm/2, single twist be 1050～1200t/m, Z twist with the fingers to, a strand twist per unit be 480～550t/m, S twist with the fingers to.
The raw material wool of described yarn is silkete unshrinkable wool or Basolan wool or common wool, and average fineness is 15.0～16.5 μ m, and coefficient of dispersion is 21.0～22.5%, and average length is 75～80mm, the following undercoat coefficient 2～3% of 30mm.
The production method of above-mentioned superfine wool yarn, comprise wool top recombing → one time silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → four road grillings → three road rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → double twisting → ceeling → processing steps such as check, be characterized in: behind described wool top recombing, silver mixing, three road rove, spun yarn, winder and a double twisting, carry out nutriment respectively; Behind a silver mixing, adopt 0.25% fiber obvolvent reinforcing agent to be mixed with suitable profit agent and join in the wool top, on the spun yarn Travellers, wipe white oil simultaneously; The roller of counter extensioin device adopts the less roller of hardness.
The roller hardness of described drafting system adopts 70 °～75 ° of Shore hardness.
The concrete technology of described nutriment is: humidification nutriment is 8 hours after the wool top recombing, oiling nutriment is 12 hours behind the silver mixing, and moisture regain nutriment is 48 hours behind the three road rove, and moisture regain nutriment is 24 hours behind the spun yarn, moisture regain nutriment is 48 hours behind the winder, and moisture regain nutriment is more than 60 hours behind the double twisting.
In the spinning process, the workshop temperature is controlled at 25～28 ℃, relative humidity: preceding spinning is controlled at 75～80%, after spin and be controlled at 65～75%.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the present invention is selected superfine wool raw material from aspects such as length, fineness, undercoat coefficients, the rational yam count and the twist have been determined simultaneously, some special measures and preferred technological parameter on spinning process, have been taked, as in spinning process, adopting many intermittently-six nutriment, to guarantee that yarn evenness is evenly bright and clean; Adopting 0.25% fiber obvolvent reinforcing agent to be mixed with suitable profit agent in the preceding road of spinning joins in the wool top, simultaneously on the spun yarn Travellers, wipe white oil, in addition, for the special less roller of hardness of roller employing of drafting system, strengthened effective control of edge fiber.Solved that mercerising wool fibre cohesive force is poor, many easily difficult problems of broken end of details in the spinning, and improved the anti-fuzz balls of yarn; Thereby successfully make the 120Nm/2 superfine wool yarn of high quality and low cost, yarn evenness＜15%, ANTIPILLING 〉=3 grade, and its spun yarn cross-section fibers radical only is 28, well below international conventional 36 limit, saved valuable superfine wool raw material greatly.Use the more frivolous exquisiteness of fabric that the existing common wool yarn of fabric that this yarn is made into is made into, sliding gentle elegant, soft, sliding glutinous, wear more comfortable.Therefore, the present invention provides a new varieties product and a spinning method for genuine thereof of fine qualities, that cost performance is high for the superfine wool yarn, and, increasing the wool product designs and varieties for making full use of, develop rationally, economically well sold and in short supply wool resource, the demand that satisfies market contributes.
The specific embodiment
The invention will be further described with embodiment below.
A, spinning material is selected the shrinkproof beautiful promise wool of superfine mercerization for use, its average fiber length 76.78mm, average fineness 16.31 μ m, coefficient of dispersion 21.53%, the following undercoat coefficient 2.21% of 30mm.
B, spinning, be spun into the twist and be 1186t/m, Z twist with the fingers to spun yarn, be plied to the twist then and be 518t/m, S twist with the fingers to the thigh yarn, yam count is 120Nm/2.
The spinning technique step is:
1., pretreatment of raw material, the shrinkproof processing of mercerising.
2., the wool top recombing, combed top was sweating room nutriment 48 hours.
3., a silver mixing adopts the B412 gilling machine, and with 8 of wool feedings, the shaping Weight control is in 21g/m (± 0.6), and the refueling water silver mixing guarantees that the machine regain is 17%～18% under the fiber; Needle plate model: 10#, drafting multiple: 8.08 times, roller gauge: 45mm, the reciprocal tooth of reeling is 39T/40T, roller is pressurised into 8kg.
Silver mixing adopts 0.25% fiber obvolvent reinforcing agent to be mixed with suitable profit agent and joined in the wool top nutriment 12 hours.
4., the secondary silver mixing mainly is fully to mix, and gives full play to and cooperation usefulness, to control the wool top weight unevenness below 1%.Adopt the B412 gilling machine, with 7 of for the first time mixed wool feedings, the shaping Weight control is in 18g/m (± 0.3); Needle plate model: 10#, drafting multiple: 8.08 times, roller gauge: 40mm, the reciprocal tooth of reeling is 39T/40T, roller is pressurised into 8kg.
5., four road grillings adopt 68 types, four road gill boxes, with the combed top behind the silver mixing on well-mixed basis by repeatedly and close, drawing-off and combing make that fiber alignment is smooth-going meets and closely, color and luster and quality fully mix, bar is done uniform strip.The main technologic parameters of gill box is as follows:
Item B 423 B432 B442 B452
Total draft (doubly) 8.08 7.29 6.24 5.23
Number of doubling (root) 7432
Shaping weight (g/m) 15.2 8.3 3.9 1.5
Front ratch (mm) 36 36 36-
Roller pressurization (kg) 88 8-
The speed of a motor vehicle (m/min) 60 60 60-
6., rove adopts FB441 type afterturn formula Speed frames, the double joint feeding, and moderate tension force, suitably pressurization makes its rove appearance bright and clean, and filoplume is few, and tension force improves, and reduces broken end, scared and misdraft, and the spun yarn brute force that is spun into is good, bar makes a good job of.
The main technologic parameters of Speed frames is as follows:
Project FB441 (one) FB441 (two) FB441 (three)
Total draft (doubly) 4.48 4.08 4.09
Number of doubling (root) 222
Shaping weight (g/m) 0.67 0.33 0.16
First grade of 1 weight of pressurization first grade of 1 weight of (kg) first grade of 1 weight
Final rove bar is done cv%6.12
After being spun into rove, deliver to rove sweating room moisture regain nutriment 48 hours.
7., spun yarn, the FB502 type fine spining machine that adopts Shanghai two frame factories to produce, drawing-off partly is the Suessen reel cage.Main technologic parameters is: real spin number 120.0Nm, 19.28 times of total drafts, the back zone is stretched oneself and yawn 1.10 times, twist 1186t/m, Z to, ratch is 105 * 90mm, ingot speed 6800r/min, further groove 1.0mm, No. 34, steel wire hook, spacing block 4.0mm.Recording the dried CV% value of spun yarn bar is 19.44%.
After being spun into spun yarn, deliver between spun yarn moisture regain nutriment 24 hours.
8., winder adopts automatic winder ESPERO, speed of a motor vehicle 650m/min, and electronic clearing scope: N 6.8, DS 2.3, and LS 2.6, and DL 1.4, and LL 45, and-D 38, and-L 45.
Moisture regain nutriment 48 hours.
9., doubling frame AES is adopted in doubling, and speed of a motor vehicle 350m/min, tension piece are put the tension force blank panel.
10., double twisting adopts GEMINIS type two-for-one twister, and speed of a motor vehicle 8000r/m, twists with the fingers to being S to, the 2nd grade of yarn guiding wheel design twist 518t/m, tension force numbers 2
#
Moisture regain nutriment 64 hours.
(11), ceeling.
The shrinkproof ultra-fine beautiful promise sheep yarn finished product of present embodiment mercerising after testing, its key technical indexes is listed as follows:
This finished product wool yarns cross-section fibers radical is according to computing formula: n=917000/d
2* Nm, n is a wool yarns cross-section fibers radical in the formula, and d is a wool fineness, and Nm is the wool yarns number.
Calculate: n=917000/16.31
2* 120=28.73 root.
Claims (10)
1. superfine wool yarn, it is characterized in that: yarn count is 100～120Nm/2, single twist be 1050～1200t/m, Z twist with the fingers to, a strand twist per unit be 480～550t/m, S twist with the fingers to.
2. by the described superfine wool yarn of claim 1, the raw material wool that it is characterized in that described yarn is silkete unshrinkable wool or Basolan wool or common wool, average fineness is 15.0～16.5 μ m, coefficient of dispersion is 21.0～22.5%, average length is 75～80mm, the following undercoat coefficient 2～3% of 30mm.
3. the production method of a superfine wool yarn as claimed in claim 1, comprise following process steps: wool top recombing → one time silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → four road grillings → three road rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → double twisting → ceeling → checks is characterized in that: carry out nutriment respectively behind described wool top recombing, silver mixing, three road rove, spun yarn, winder and a double twisting; Behind a silver mixing, adopt 0.25% fiber obvolvent reinforcing agent to be mixed with suitable profit agent and join in the wool top, on the spun yarn Travellers, wipe white oil simultaneously; The roller of counter extensioin device adopts the less roller of hardness.
4. press the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that after the wool top recombing humidification nutriment 8 hours, oiling nutriment is 12 hours behind the silver mixing, moisture regain nutriment is 48 hours behind the three road rove, moisture regain nutriment is 24 hours behind the spun yarn, moisture regain nutriment is 48 hours behind the winder, and moisture regain nutriment is more than 60 hours behind the double twisting.
5. by the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that the roller hardness of described drafting system adopts 70 °～75 ° of Shore hardness.
6. by the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that in the spinning process that the workshop temperature is controlled at 25～28 ℃, relative humidity: preceding spinning is controlled at 75～80%, after spin and be controlled at 65～75%.
7. press the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that silver mixing one time, adopt the B412 gilling machine, with 8 of wool feedings, the shaping Weight control is in 21g/m (± 0.6), and the refueling water silver mixing guarantees that the machine regain is 17%～18% under the fiber; Needle plate model: 10#, drafting multiple: 8.08 times, roller gauge: 45mm, the reciprocal tooth of reeling is 39T/40T, roller is pressurised into 8kg.
8. press the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that four road grillings, adopt 68 types, four road gill boxes, with the combed top behind the silver mixing on well-mixed basis by repeatedly and close, drawing-off and combing, it is smooth-going and tight to make fiber alignment, and color and luster and quality fully mix, bar is done uniform strip, and the main technologic parameters of gill box is as follows:
Item B 423 B432 B442 B452
Total draft (doubly) 8.08 7.29 6.24 5.23
Number of doubling (root) 7432
Shaping weight (g/m) 15.2 8.3 3.9 1.5
Front ratch (mm) 36 36 36-
Roller pressurization (kg) 88 8-
The speed of a motor vehicle (m/min) 60 60 60-
9. press the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that rove, adopt FB441 type afterturn formula Speed frames, the double joint feeding, moderate tension force, suitably pressurization makes its rove appearance bright and clean, and filoplume is few, tension force improves, reduce broken end, scared and misdraft, the spun yarn brute force that is spun into is good, bar makes a good job of, and the main technologic parameters of Speed frames is as follows:
Project FB441 (one) FB441 (two) FB441 (three)
Total draft (doubly) 4.48 4.08 4.09
Number of doubling (root) 222
Shaping weight (g/m) 0.67 0.33 0.16
First grade of 1 weight of pressurization first grade of 1 weight of (kg) first grade of 1 weight
Final rove bar is done cv%6.12
10. by the production method of the described superfine wool yarn of claim 3, it is characterized in that spun yarn, adopt FB502 type fine spining machine, drawing-off partly is the Suessen reel cage, main technologic parameters is: spin number 120.0Nm in fact, and 19.28 times of total drafts, the back zone is stretched oneself and yawn 1.10 times, twist 1186t/m, Z to, ratch is 105 * 90mm, ingot speed 6800r/min, further groove 1.0mm, No. 34, steel wire hook, spacing block 4.0mm.
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| CN200910157141A CN101709522A (en) | 2009-12-20 | 2009-12-20 | Superfine wool yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN200910157141A CN101709522A (en) | 2009-12-20 | 2009-12-20 | Superfine wool yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN102453992A (en) * | 2010-10-20 | 2012-05-16 | 上海中纺物产发展有限公司 | Method for producing ESTA yarns |
| CN102704097A (en) * | 2012-01-17 | 2012-10-03 | 张家港市中孚达纺织科技有限公司 | Spinning process of high-count combed yakwool pure woven yarns |
| CN102747500A (en) * | 2012-07-20 | 2012-10-24 | 淄博奈琦尔纺织科技发展有限公司 | Flame-retardant lifesaving blanket and production method thereof |
| CN102828340A (en) * | 2012-09-11 | 2012-12-19 | 罗莱家纺股份有限公司 | Woolen blanket and production method thereof |
| CN103757777A (en) * | 2014-01-22 | 2014-04-30 | 宁波康赛妮毛绒制品有限公司 | Cashmere and stretched wool blended yarn and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN104278396A (en) * | 2013-07-02 | 2015-01-14 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 | Real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric for home textiles and manufacturing method of real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric |
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| CN102453992A (en) * | 2010-10-20 | 2012-05-16 | 上海中纺物产发展有限公司 | Method for producing ESTA yarns |
| CN102704097A (en) * | 2012-01-17 | 2012-10-03 | 张家港市中孚达纺织科技有限公司 | Spinning process of high-count combed yakwool pure woven yarns |
| CN102704097B (en) * | 2012-01-17 | 2013-12-25 | 张家港市中孚达纺织科技有限公司 | Spinning process of high-count combed yakwool pure woven yarns |
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| CN104278396B (en) * | 2013-07-02 | 2016-11-23 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | Real silk-Pilus Caprae seu Ovis intertexture jacquard fabric for home textile and preparation method thereof |
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Open date: 20100519 |