CN101642290A - Preparation method of vintage woolen fabric and clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation method of vintage woolen fabric and clothes. A top dyeing product comprises the following processing steps: top dyeing, spinning, weaving, fabric preliminary finishing, chlorination pretreatment, clothes making, clothes washing, clothes pressing and finished product obtaining, or a piece dyeing product comprises the following processing steps: grey fabric prewashing, chloridization treatment, dyeing, drying, clothes making, clothes washing, clothes pressing and finished product obtaining, or garment dyeing comprises the following processing steps: grey fabric clothes making-chloridization treatment, clothes dyeing, clothes washing, clothes pressing and finished product obtaining. The invention has the advantages that woolen fabrics have a vintage effect after being washed and the original hand feeling is kept.

Description

The preparation method of vintage woolen fabric and clothes

One, technical field

The present invention relates to the preparation method of a kind of vintage woolen fabric and clothes.Belong to the spinning post-finishing technical field.

Two, background technology

In recent years, people's consumption concept is leisure, personalization more and more, the jeans of various washing classes become more and more popular, but jean has a shortcoming, be exactly that drapability is bad, feel is hard partially, and wool fabric itself is just soft, people wish wool fabric also to be washed out the outward appearance of similar bafta, keep its original feel and characteristics.

Three, summary of the invention

At above-mentioned shortcoming, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of wool fabric can being washed out to imitate old effect and keep the vintage woolen fabric of its original feel and characteristics and the preparation method of clothes.

Technology contents of the present invention is the preparation method of a kind of vintage woolen fabric and clothes

A, bar dye the product bar and dye product and comprise following processing step: slub dyeing → spin → weave → lining preliminary finish → chlorination pre-treatment → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product; If what raw material was used is shrinkproof wool top or mercerising wool top, then can omit the chlorination pretreatment procedure, the blend fabric of wool and cellulose fibre can not be carried out the chlorination pre-treatment, because the aqueous ph value of chlorine is very low, acidolysis can take place in cellulose fibre with this understanding, so during with the cellulose fibre blending, raw wool will be with shrinkproof wool top or mercerising wool top; Or

B, Shu dye product Shu and dye product and comprise following processing step: openpore → prewashing → chlorination processing → dyeing → oven dry → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product; Or

C, garment dyeing garment dyeing comprise following processing step: openpore → clothing making → chlorination processing → clothes dyeing → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product,

It is characterized in that:

Described chlorination pre-treating technology: the chlorination speed of a motor vehicle: 8～12 meters/minute, chlorine consumption: 5～8 kilograms/hour;

Described dyeing: dyestuff adopts direct dyes, and the pH value of dyeing is lower than 4; Heating rate: 3.5～4.5 ℃/minute, holding temperature is 95～100 ℃, temperature retention time 10～25 minutes; Dyeing installation, lining overflow dyeing machine, ready-made clothes industry washer;

Described clothes washing process,

1. glueballs and clothes or the lining that will wash are put into industry washer, just do not have washing clothes to be advisable with water, if velour then need not used glueballs;

2. the rotating speed of regulating washing machine is 50～70 rev/mins;

3. start washing machine, transferring pH value with soda ash is 7.5～8.5;

4. be warming up to 45～55 ℃, add biology enzyme 0.3～1.5%o.w.f; Biology enzyme is the 16L that Denmark Novozymes company produces;

5. turned round 30～60 minutes, pH value maintains 7.5～8.5;

6. be heated to 70～80 ℃, running 3～7min makes enzyme deactivation;

7. rinse well;

8. during room temperature, relay suitable quantity of water, just do not have washing clothes to be advisable with water, transfer pH value to 5.0～6.0 with acetic acid, add silicone based softening agent, making its concentration is 45～55g/l, slowly turns round 15～25 minutes again, if clothing has fluffed or had and washed bad sign, then can only will soak again 15～25 minutes after the softening agent running evenly;

9. go out car, dehydration, oven dry;

10. the lining folding is flat, clothes is place under repair again, the whole warehouse-in that scalds.

Key point in the embodiment

1, to the requirement of clothing making:

Will be through the clothes of washing, require difference to some extent with common clothing making, at first be that clothes will be taken into account the washing shrinkage of lining and underedge when beating edition, next is that clothes will stand washing, and promptly strong mechanism is so require the margin to seam of clothes solid, can not off-clip during washing, preferably adopting make a return journey seam or bound edge, is that washing will be wrapped earlier washing bad place easily before at last, sews it up.

2, dyestuff selects for use

Wool fiber usefulness dyestuff that wool fabric usefulness is conventional such as acid dyes, neutral dye, mordant dyes, reactive dye for wool dyeing, its color fastness is fine, can't reach imitative old effect during washing, seek out imitative old effect, just must break the normal procedure, the dyestuff of using with non-wool fiber dyes, through repeatedly experiment discovery, after the wool fabric pre-treatment, direct dyes (being applicable to cotton) has good Dry Sack to it, and dyestuff all is adsorbed on the surface of fabric, forms ring and dyes, and this washes out the necessary condition of imitative old effect just.If wool fabric is dark during then direct dyes does not dye without pre-treatment.Disperse dyes also can be gone up the dyeing wool fabric, and can obtain to wash old effect, but can only obtain light color.During coating dyeing wool fabric, easy dyeing flower, and color fastness is very poor, also can only obtain light color.So finally we have selected direct dyes.

3, pre-treatment requirement

What pre-treatment was adopted is that chlorination is handled, and breaks the scale layer of wool surface with chlorine, and it is dyed outside seat is exposed to as far as possible, during chlorination, mainly produces following two kinds of chemical reactions:

The first forms sulfonic acid group with the in addition oxidation of the disulfide bond of wool:

It two is that the peptide bond cracking of wool forms carboxyl and amino:

Behind amino the formation, positively charged under acid condition, and direct dyes is electronegative in the aqueous solution, so amino formation has increased the seat that dyes of direct dyes colouring, thereby has improved the dye level of direct dyes on wool fabric.After chlorination was handled in addition, the surface of wool fiber had very strong positive charge, so colouring is very fast, Dry Sack promptly forms ring and dyes on the surface of fabric, provides good basis for obtaining to wash old effect.

After superchlorination was handled, the scale layer of wool fiber was destroyed, can not cause felting owing to the rubbing of scale when washing, can reach " machine washable " requirement.And behind the flaky destruction, it is sliding glutinous, active that the feel of wool fiber becomes, so the drapability of wool fabric also improves.

4, dyeing

The mechanism of direct dyes dyeing wool fabric and cellulosic fabric is different, direct dyes is electronegative in the aqueous solution, cellulose fibre is also electronegative in the aqueous solution, so will add a large amount of inorganic salts when direct dyes dyes cellulosic fabric, the compression diffuse double layer, and that wool fiber is lower than in 4 the aqueous solution at pH value is positively charged, just in time attracts each other with electronegative direct dyes, so need not add inorganic salts during dyeing.The pH value that just must guarantee dyeing will be lower than below 4, otherwise pin water is very dark.Dye effect in order to guarantee to dye good ring, make dyestuff dye surface on as far as possible at fabric, lay the first stone for improving the washing effect, just require the dyeing speed will be as quickly as possible, allow dyestuff have little time to be penetrated into the fiber the inside, accelerate heating rate under the prerequisite of not spending as far as possible and shorten temperature retention time so we dye in assurance.

5, washing process:

Wool fiber is compared with cotton fiber, and its brute force is much lower, can not adopt traditional stone mill technology, wash old effect for outstanding, we have adopted ball-milling technology during washing, and used ball is a kind of glueballs, glueballs is little more a lot of to the frictional force of clothes than traditional float stone, can avoid clothes to be washed brokenly.In order to obtain bright and clean face, we have adopted the biology enzyme polishing, under the synergy of the hydrolysis of biology enzyme and mechanical friction, can be the fine hair of fabric face and withered and fallen fiber removal, thus make fabric tissue more clear, color is vivider.The biology enzyme polishing also can reduce the pilling tendency in addition, reduces tingling sensation.Whether the fine hair of fabric face can be removed, and enzyme is washed the fineness of back fabric face and the twist of fabric yarn itself has much relations, and the twist is big, fine hair can be removed in mechanical milling process, fabric face is bright and clean, if yarn twist is little, then fabric face can produce more fine hair on the contrary during ball milling.

The advantage that the present invention had is: wool fabric can be washed out imitative old effect and keep its original feel and characteristics.

Four, the specific embodiment

The present invention is further detailed explanation below in conjunction with embodiment.

Example 1, bar dye product

Bar dyes product and comprises following processing step: slub dyeing → spin → weave → lining preliminary finish → chlorination pre-treatment → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product;

If what raw material was used is shrinkproof wool top or mercerising wool top, then can omit the chlorination pretreatment procedure;

Chlorination pre-treating technology: the chlorination speed of a motor vehicle: 10 meters/minute, chlorine consumption: 6 kilograms/hour;

Dyeing: dyestuff adopts direct dyes, and the pH value of dyeing is lower than 4; Heating rate: 4 ℃/minute, holding temperature is 98 ℃, temperature retention time 20 minutes; Dyeing installation, lining overflow dyeing machine, ready-made clothes industry washer;

Washing process:

All-wool fabric or clothes, or hair/terylene fabric or clothes,

1. glueballs and clothes or the lining that will wash are put into industry washer, make water just not have washing clothes, if velour then need not used glueballs;

2. the rotating speed of regulating washing machine is 60 rev/mins;

3. start washing machine, transferring pH value with soda ash is 8;

4. be warming up to 50 ℃, add biology enzyme 1.0%o.w.f; Biology enzyme is the 16L that Denmark Novozymes company produces;

5. turned round 40 minutes, pH value maintains 8.0;

6. be heated to 75 ℃, turning round made enzyme deactivation in 6 minutes

7. rinse well;

8. during room temperature, relay suitable quantity of water, transfer pH value to 5.5 with acetic acid, add the SPM softening agent of Shanghai Kening Co.,Ltd, making its concentration is 50g/l, slowly turns round 20 minutes again, if clothing has fluffed or had and washed bad sign, then can only will soak again 20 minutes after the softening agent running evenly;

9. go out car, dehydration, oven dry

10. the lining folding is flat, clothes is place under repair again, the whole warehouse-in that scalds.

Example 2, Shu dye product

Shu dyes product and comprises following processing step: openpore → prewashing → chlorination processing → dyeing → oven dry → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product; All the other are all with example 1.

Example 3, garment dyeing

Garment dyeing comprises following processing step: openpore → clothing making → chlorination processing → clothes dyeing → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product, and all the other are all with example 1.

Claims (1)

1, the preparation method of a kind of vintage woolen fabric and clothes

A, bar dye the product bar and dye product and comprise following processing step: slub dyeing → spin → weave → lining preliminary finish → chlorination pre-treatment → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product; If what raw material was used is shrinkproof wool top or mercerising wool top, then can omit the chlorination pretreatment procedure, the blend fabric of wool and cellulose fibre can not be carried out the chlorination pre-treatment, because the aqueous ph value of chlorine is very low, acidolysis can take place in cellulose fibre with this understanding, so during with the cellulose fibre blending, raw wool will be with shrinkproof wool top or mercerising wool top; Or

B, Shu dye product Shu and dye product and comprise following processing step: openpore → prewashing → chlorination processing → dyeing → oven dry → clothing making → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product; Or

C, garment dyeing garment dyeing comprise following processing step: openpore → clothing making → chlorination processing → clothes dyeing → clothes washing → clothes are whole to scald → finished product,

It is characterized in that:

Described chlorination pre-treating technology: the chlorination speed of a motor vehicle: 8～12 meters/minute, chlorine consumption: 5～8 kilograms/hour;

Described dyeing: dyestuff adopts direct dyes, and the pH value of dyeing is lower than 4; Heating rate: 3.5～4.5 ℃/minute, holding temperature is 95～100 ℃, temperature retention time 10～25 minutes; Dyeing installation, lining overflow dyeing machine, ready-made clothes industry washer;

Described clothes washing process,

1. glueballs and clothes or the lining that will wash are put into industry washer, just do not have washing clothes to be advisable with water, if velour then need not used glueballs;

2. the rotating speed of regulating washing machine is 50～70 rev/mins;

3. start washing machine, transferring pH value with soda ash is 7.5～8.5;

4. be warming up to 45～55 ℃, add biology enzyme 0.3～1.5%o.w.f; Biology enzyme is the 16L that Denmark Novozymes company produces;

5. turned round 30～60 minutes, pH value maintains 7.5～8.5;

6. be heated to 70～80 ℃, running 3～7min makes enzyme deactivation;

7. rinse well;

8. during room temperature, relay suitable quantity of water, just do not have washing clothes to be advisable with water, transfer pH value to 5.0～6.0 with acetic acid, add silicone based softening agent, making its concentration is 45～55g/l, slowly turns round 15～25 minutes again, if clothing has fluffed or had and washed bad sign, then can only will soak again 15～25 minutes after the softening agent running evenly;

9. go out car, dehydration, oven dry;

10. the lining folding is flat, clothes is place under repair again, the whole warehouse-in that scalds.