The method of old rapid dyeing imitated by woollen sweater
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of woollen sweater and imitate old technology method, especially relate to a kind of method that old rapid dyeing imitated by woollen sweater, belong to dyeing and finishing technique field.
Background technology
Woolen knitting product is particularly suitable for imitative old style.Because the flotation line of knitted fabric is longer, interlacing point is outstanding and eye-catching, visually has more stereovision, successful after appearance is imitative old.
COTTON FABRIC is applied comparatively ripe imitative old technology method have stone mill to imitate old, biology enzyme to imitate old, bleaching agent and imitate old etc., these methods all will by washing stone mill technique, and friction can cause wool fabric pilling, so significant discomfort closes woollen sweater and cashmere sweater product.
At present, in prior art, disclose the imitative aging method of some woolen knitting products, such as: the patent of application number 200910186642 relates to a kind of imitative old mist sense shell fabric, and be interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and form, described warp thread is 50D terylene TRIANGLE PROFILE; Described weft yarn is 50D low elastic polyester filament, and the warp count of described fabric is 230 ~ 240 pieces/inch; Described weft count is 90 ~ 95 pieces/inch, and its fabric tissue adopts five heddle satin, the surface of described fabric scribbles mist sense coating.It is strong that old sense imitated by this fabric, overcomes feel hardboard, reach soft abundant effect.Application number: the invention of 201210161625 relates to a kind of imitative old colouring method of knitted wool fabrics, comprising: the knitted wool fabrics fully deoiled is placed in dyeing machine by (1), water inlet, adds pretreating agent, heats up, is incubated, discharge pretreatment solution, washing; (2) intake, then add cation modifier and glacial acetic acid, pH value controls 5 ~ 7.5, heats up, is incubated, discharge raffinate, washing; (3) intake, room temperature adds levelling agent, and running 5 ~ 10min, then adds coating, running 10 ~ 20min, then heat up, add color-fixing agent and softener, running 10 ~ 20min, then heats up, add glacial acetic acid, running 30-60min, is cooled to 55-60 DEG C of discharge opeing, washing.Also has application number: a kind of process of the disclosure of the invention of 201310016536 imitates the Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Dyes of old process and the method for imitative old process thereof.It is by fabric in airflow dyeing machine, after reactive dyeing, first wash water 10min, draining, dry 15min again, rely on airflow dyeing machine ejection pressure-air allow band moisture fabric shuttling movement in airflow dyeing machine, then pass into ozone, air pressure reach 0.3 ~ 0.5bar, run 30min, exhaust; Pass into ozone again, air pressure reaches 0.3 ~ 0.5bar, run 30min, exhaust; Pass into ozone again, air pressure reach 0.3 ~ 0.5bar, run 30min, exhaust, then wash water 6min, draining, then wash recirculated water 6min under 60 DEG C of water temperatures, then draining, remove residue ozone, obtain the Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Dyes through imitative old process.
But imitative old effect of the prior art is all by dyeing and post processing realization for a long time, reduces production efficiency, is unfavorable for industrialized production.In addition, outward appearance shoals or is mist sense, and the imitative old outward appearance of the obvious depth level presented from the present invention is also different.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to propose one by liquid wax barrier and change traditional dyeing process, just can realize the imitative old style of woollen sweater with dyes color method, imitative old outward appearance is obvious, and stereovision is strong.Wool fibre common dyes, as REACTIVE DYES and weak acid dye, all can realize this decoration method and imitate old effect.Compared with the dyeing of routine; the invention provides a kind of based on rapid dyeing; achieve the technical scheme of imitative old effect as dyestuff barrier by wax; the program greatly reduces dyeing time and reduces dyeing energy consumption; also protect the excellent properties of fiber better, avoid the woollen sweater pilling problem that the imitative aging method of tradition causes because of friction.
Outstanding feature of the present invention is that the present invention specifically provides following technical scheme: the method for old rapid dyeing imitated by woollen sweater, it is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(1) waxdip: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05 ~ 1.15 times of woollen sweater fabric weight, under normal temperature, woollen sweater is soaked wax liquid, repeatedly rubs pressure, until evenly; Low temperature drying or air dry;
(2) dye: by dried for waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath prepared; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, levelling agent: the aqueous solution of 3 ~ 5%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; Be warmed up to 75 ~ 80 DEG C with the speed of 3-4 DEG C/min, insulation 5 ~ 10min realizes dyeing;
(3) fixation: after dyeing, adds cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, is then taken out by fabric;
(4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent 2%(owf), at 70 DEG C of washing 15min;
(5) (80 DEG C, more than 15min) are dried.
Described REACTIVE DYES and weak acid dye are wool fibre common dyes.Described weak acid dye is the black VL of weak acid (owf).
Described levelling agent is A Bai brother SET.
Described programming rate is 3 DEG C/min.
Need after described fixation with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+relying can even MF2%(owf) clean.Described cationic fixing agent is color-fixing agent CS or Fixative R F, consumption 1.5 ~ 2%.
Described normal temperature is 20 ~ 25 DEG C;
Described low temperature is 25 ~ 30 DEG C.
The present invention can on the basis of the existing style of woollen sweater, the stratose imitative old effect of the depth is created by rapid dyeing, and imitative old degree in various degree can be there is because of the difference of local organization on dress, as screw thread and flat pin (Fig. 4), make one integral piece clothes more be rich in third dimension.The woollen sweater of imitative old style, has enriched the flower pattern of woollen sweater, has improve technology content and the added value of wool product.
The present invention has following advantage:
(1) realizing fast staining by resist agent liquid wax imitates old
By preliminary treatment of waxing, be formed in the obstruct to dyestuff in dyeing course.Because skin wax amount greatly, aggregation force is strong, and therefore wax is relatively many in textile surface distribution, so make top layer Dry Sack more shallow after dyeing, bottom is comparatively dark, and occurred that similar denim grinds old style, this is core methed of the present invention.In numerous processes of inventor's research, to imitate old effect best for this method at present, and operability is the strongest, and reappearance is best.
(2) realizing fast staining by levelling agent imitates old
What rapid dyeing imitated that old law pursues is Total Product outward appearance uniformity after dyeing, but the uneven and sense that has levels of local slight part dyeing, so selection molecular weight is larger, some dyestuff of molecular structure relative complex is more suitable for.Must adopt levelling agent, the consumption of levelling agent is also very crucial, and when consumption is few, film clips appear in dyeing, but imitative old effect is poor too much for consumption.
Formulate rapid dyeing process
Heating rate, insulation point, temperature retention time are crucial.Temperature retention time by improving heating rate and shortening dyeing time, and shortens by the present invention, then coordinates pH value, particularly must adopt levelling agent, so just causes pollutant and occurs dyeing depth level.Fast heating ramp rate of the present invention 3 DEG C/min, insulation point is a little more than the melting point liking cottonrose hibiscus wax.
Woollen sweater rapid dyeing process of the present invention is exactly by choose reasonable dyestuff, auxiliary agent and shorten dyeing time, reduce the processes such as dyeing temperature dyes to woollen sweater, and after dyeing, appearance does not contaminate thoroughly, depth level is distinct, overall appearance imitative old effect uniformly.Compared with the dyeing of routine, its dyeing time can shorten 30% ~ 50%.
Detailed description of the invention
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, technical scheme of the present invention is implemented as follows.
(1) cottonrose hibiscus wax pretreating process is liked in leaching:
Like that cottonrose hibiscus wax illustrates: but love cottonrose hibiscus wax is imitated, and old dyeing is both similar is different from traditional wax-dyeing process.Traditional batik on fabric, needs the tissue site gimmick demonstrating decorative pattern to carry out painting paint, and then through dyeing, be coated with and paint the resist printing effect that there is cerate at position, dyestuff is caused to be difficult to dye, thus fabric can be made to manifest required floral designs, can also crack by random crimping position of waxing before dyeing, along with stirring by dyeing and weaving thing in dyeing course, be coated with the position being painted with cerate also can crack, dye solution therefore can in crackle infiltrated fiber, again through dewaxing, washing, operation after the dyeing such as soap boiling and oven dry, the ice line of pattern and self-assembling formation can be left on fabric.
Like that cottonrose hibiscus wax is imitated old dyeing and belonged to dyeing category and non-printed, principle adopts wax to make resist agent, the Dry Sack by dyeing.The dyeing temperature of beeswax and paraffin batik is the highest can not more than 40 DEG C, and this must control below 40 DEG C because the softening temperature of common cerate result in.Like that the hot property of cottonrose hibiscus wax is high, water soluble again, de-dry after soaking, fabric adheres to cerate few, anti-metachromia is better, then carries out exhaust dyeing technique, dyeing temperature is high, cerate is softening to be dissolved, and makes the Color that can form white line and colo(u)r streak intertexture, namely imitative old effect, background color is dark, apparent shallow, fabric tissue is closely located wax and is absorbed many, imitative old effective.
Like that cottonrose hibiscus wax is a kind of liquid water-soluble cerate, outward appearance is off-white color, dissolves in cold water, and solid content is about 45%, and in weak cation, when being adjusted to concentration 10%, pH value is about 4, and now, when 20 DEG C, viscosity is about up to 50mPa.s.
Wax enhancement: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05 ~ 1.15 times of sweater weight.At normal temperature 20 ~ 25 DEG C, sweater is soaked wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure, until evenly.For preventing wax liquid migration, must dry or air dry by low temperature 25 ~ 30 DEG C.
(2) woollen sweater fast staining imitates old technology
By dried for waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop in the dye bath prepared.
Dye bath formulation:
Dyeing heating process curve as shown in Figure 6;
Clean: with A Bai brother B3%+ non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%, at 70 DEG C of washing 15min.
The residual wax rate of imitative old woollen sweater, after gravimetric detemination, is about 6% ~ 8%.Gained master drawing as shown in Figure 1.
(3) colour fastness to rubbing test
This experiment colour fastness to rubbing is tested by GB/T3920-2008 " textile color stability test colour fastness to rubbing ", and grades with GB/T251-2008 " textile color stability test evaluation staining gray scale ".The fastness to wet rubbing of imitative old rear woollen sweater is more satisfactory can reach more than 3.5 grades, and dry fastness, more than 2.5 grades, substantially can meet coat and wear requirement.The crock fastness weaker acid dyestuff of REACTIVE DYES is high half grade.Woollen sweater fast staining imitates old ready-made clothes colorfastness to rubbing test result diagram (MF weak acid series dyes) as shown in Figure 3.
Specific embodiment 1
(1) woollen sweater rapid dyeing process flow process:
To wax preliminary treatment → rapid dyeing → fixation → cleaning → oven dry
(2) formula and description of the process
1) pre-treatment Recipe of waxing illustrates:
Take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.1 times of sweater weight, according to the difference liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.At 25 DEG C, sweater is soaked wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 30 DEG C of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.2) dye: by dried for waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath prepared; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:4%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; Dyeing is realized at 50 DEG C of insulation 8min;
3) fixation: after dyeing, is warmed up to 75 DEG C with the speed of 3 DEG C/min, adds cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, is then taken out by fabric;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%(owf), at 70 DEG C of washing 15min;
5) 80 DEG C, dry 15min, get product.
Specific embodiment 2
1) wax: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.15 times of sweater weight, according to the difference liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.Under normal temperature, sweater is soaked wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 20 DEG C of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.
2) dye: by dried for waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath prepared; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:5%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; Dyeing is realized at 50 DEG C of insulation 5min;
3) fixation: after dyeing, is warmed up to 80 DEG C with the speed of 4 DEG C/min, adds cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, is then taken out by fabric;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%+ non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%, at 70 DEG C of washing 15min;
5) 80 DEG C, dry 20min, get product.
Specific embodiment 3
1) wax: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05 times of sweater weight, according to the difference liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.At 25 DEG C, sweater is soaked wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 30 DEG C of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.2) dye: by dried for waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath prepared; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:3%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; Dyeing is realized at 50 DEG C of insulation 10min;
3) fixation: after dyeing, is warmed up to 75 DEG C with the speed of 3 DEG C/min, adds cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, is then taken out by fabric;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%(owf), at 70 DEG C of washing 15min;
5) 80 DEG C, dry 15min, get product.
Fabric colour fastness to rubbing after process of the present invention is tested by GB/T3920-2008 " textile color stability test colour fastness to rubbing ", and grades with GB/T251-2008 " textile color stability test evaluation staining gray scale ".With ACID DYES imitate old after, the fastness to wet rubbing of woollen sweater is more satisfactory can reach more than 3.5 grades, and dry fastness, more than 2.5 grades, can meet coat and wear requirement; The crock fastness weaker acid dyestuff of REACTIVE DYES is high half grade.Experimental study through how much amount proves, the method is imitated old arrangement to cashmere sweater and is also suitable for.
Accompanying drawing illustrates:
Fig. 1 is for liking that cottonrose hibiscus wax Cold pretreatment fast staining imitates old master drawing (the black VL of weak acid);
Fig. 2 is Color comparison diagram;
Fig. 3 is that woollen sweater fast staining imitates old ready-made clothes colorfastness to rubbing test result diagram (MF weak acid series dyes).
Fig. 4 is ready-made clothes sample drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is that woollen sweater fast staining of the present invention imitates old rating scale graph card table.
Fig. 6 is dyeing heating process curve.