CN101044274A - Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and decreasing in porosity upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product - Google Patents

Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and decreasing in porosity upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101044274A
CN101044274A CNA2005800357319A CN200580035731A CN101044274A CN 101044274 A CN101044274 A CN 101044274A CN A2005800357319 A CNA2005800357319 A CN A2005800357319A CN 200580035731 A CN200580035731 A CN 200580035731A CN 101044274 A CN101044274 A CN 101044274A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
crimp
woven fabric
knitted fabric
water
filament
Prior art date
Application number
CNA2005800357319A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
安井聪
山口尊志
吉本正人
森冈茂
Original Assignee
帝人纤维株式会社
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to JP2004304130A priority Critical patent/JP2006118062A/en
Priority to JP304130/2004 priority
Application filed by 帝人纤维株式会社 filed Critical 帝人纤维株式会社
Publication of CN101044274A publication Critical patent/CN101044274A/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/32Side-by-side structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00Selection of special materials for underwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/0027Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used using bicomponent threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/0083Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used using threads having a particular sectional shape
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/08Woven fabrics characterised by the material or construction of the yarn or other warp or weft elements used using stretchable or elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2400/00Functions or special features of underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs
    • A41B2400/60Moisture handling or wicking function
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2503/00Domestic or personal
    • D10B2503/06Bed linen
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24355Continuous and nonuniform or irregular surface on layer or component [e.g., roofing, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24446Wrinkled, creased, crinkled or creped
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3065Including strand which is of specific structural definition
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/425Including strand which is of specific structural definition

Abstract

The invention relates to woven fabric and knitted fabric whose void ratio can be reversibly reduced by wetting compared with the woven fabric and the knitted fabric in dry state. The fabrics comprises a texturized filament A with low crimp ration when being wetted and a texturized filament B chosen from non-texturized filaments with unchanged actual crimp ration even being wetted; wherein difference value of the crimp ration of the texturized filament A taken from the woven fabric or the knitted fabric in dry condition DC<SUB>f</SUB>(%) and in wet condition (HC<SUB>f</SUB> is no less than 10%, and moreover, the mean value RA(=(RP-RF)/2)(%) of scale variable rate RP(%) of the woven fabric or the knitted fabric in the direction of grain straight (or wale) in wet and dry conditions and in the direction of abb (or line) is at least 5%.

Description

When with water-wet space-time crack rate low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or knitted fabric, its production method and textile product therefrom

Technical field

The present invention relates to relate to its production method when with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, and by the textile product of its acquisition.More particularly, the present invention relates to when with water-wet space-time crack rate low and woven fabric or knitted fabric that voidage increases when dry, and relate to its production method and by the textile product of its acquisition.

Background technology

The known fabric that experiences reversible variation along with water-wet and dry void rate in air is called the humidity sensitive fabric, and this humidity sensitive fabric with different structure is suggested recently.

For example, the open 2003-41462 of Japanese unexamined (patent document 1) discloses ventilative woven/knitted fabric of self regulating, and it comprises by the curling conjugate fibre of being made with mode combination side by side by mylar component and polyamide component is heat-treated the curling conjugate fibre that curls and obtain to produce.In this woven/knitted fabric, the crimp percent of described curling conjugate fibre side by side reduces by water-wet, thereby has increased the voidage of this woven/knitted fabric and improved aeration.

When using water-wet by the swimsuit of using synthetic or common woven/knitted fabric production that natural fabric is made or motion with dress material, common light transmission increase also makes the inside energy in sight, therefore just requires the method that addresses this is that.Also need to provide the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of the low and improved fire resistance characteristic of the voidage that has in response to water-wet.Yet, have and demonstrate the woven fabric of improved aeration (increase voidage) or knitted fabric by water-wet and had in response to the reduction of water-wet water proofing property, and therefore can not address that need.

Patent document 1: Japanese unexamined patent is open: 2003-41462

Summary of the invention

The object of the present invention is to provide when with water-wet and compare with drying regime, voidage is low, and voidage increases when dry woven fabric that contains crimp filament or knitted fabric, and production method and by the textile product of its acquisition.

This purpose can be by woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric, reach according to its production method of the present invention and its textile product.

Woven fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention or knitted fabric are to comprise crimp percent reduces when with water-wet crimp filament A and by the woven fabric or the knitted fabric that are selected from the non-crimping long filament and crimp percent does not experience at least a long filament B that forms in the crimp filament of variation in fact when with water-wet

It is characterized in that: the crimp percent DC that under the environment of 20 ℃ of temperature, 65%RH, places the sample of the dry crimp filament A that equipped in 24 hours by the sample that makes the crimp filament A that from woven fabric or knitted fabric, takes out f(%), and, from water, mention, described specimen holder was mentioned between a pair of filter disc 60 seconds, make its experience 0.69mN/m by described crimp filament A sample was soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature 2Pressure 5 minutes and wipe the water on the sample gently and the crimp percent HC of the sample of the crimp filament A of the water-wet for preparing f(%), satisfy following requirement (1):

(DC f-HC f)≥10(%)(1),

And it is characterized in that by from described woven fabric or knitted fabric, getting the square sample of loose 30cm of a warp thread (or stringer) direction and the long 30cm of weft yarn (or line) direction, and to make it be 20 ℃ in temperature, the length L PD (mm) of the woven fabric of the drying of placing 24 hours under the environment of 65%RH and preparing or warp thread (or stringer) direction of knitted fabric sample and the length L FD (mm) of weft yarn (or line) direction, and by described woven fabric or knitted fabric sample were soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, from water, mention, described specimen holder was mentioned 60 seconds in the middle of a pair of filter disc, make its experience 0.69mN/m 2Pressure 5 seconds and wipe the water on the sample gently and the length L PH (mm) of warp thread (or stringer) direction of the sample of the woven fabric of the water-wet for preparing or knitted fabric and the length L FH (mm) of weft yarn (or line) direction, be used for following requirement (2) and (3):

RP(%)=((LPH-LPD)/LPD)×100 (2)

RF(%)=((LFH-LFD)/LFD)×100 (3)

Recover factor R F (%) to calculate yardstick rate of change RP (%) and dimensional variation rate, RP (%) machine representation fabric or knitted fabric warp thread (or stringer) direction are when the length (LPH) when the water-wet and the ratio of the length (LPD) of the difference between the length (LPD) with respect to when drying time when dry, described woven fabric of RF (%) representative or knitted fabric weft yarn (or line) direction when wetting length (LFH) and the difference between the length (LFD) when dry with respect to the ratio of the length (LFD) when dry, requirement (4) below its average RA is satisfied:

RA(%)=(RP+RF)/2≤5% (4)

Voidage is by low with water-wet thus.

In the woven fabric or knitted fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention, it has the voidage of dwindling when with water-wet, preferred crimp filament A is selected from water imbibition with from curling conjugate fibre differing from each other aspect the extensibility, it is made up of mylar component and polyamide component with mode combination side by side, and it has curling that performance by they latent crimp performances forms.

In addition, when being made up of the polyethylene terephthalate of modification with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or the mylar component in the knitted fabric, described polyethylene terephthalate comprises based on the 5-sodium sulfo isophthalate of acid constituents content with the amount copolymerization of 2.0-4.5 mole % of the present invention.

Be preferred for the twisted yarn that the twist is 0-300T/m in of the present invention working as with water-wet space-time crack rate low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the crimp filament A in the knitted fabric.

Preferably form at the long filament B that in the woven fabric that contains crimp filament low or knitted fabric, contains of the present invention by mylar with water-wet space-time crack rate.

Of the present inventionly contain the woven or knitted structure of two-layer or more multi-layered multilayer when preferably having with the woven fabric of low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or knitted fabric or knitted fabric, wherein said multilayer one deck at least woven or knitted structure contains the crimp filament A that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer, and one deck at least of other layer contains the long filament B that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer.

Of the present invention when with the low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of knitted fabric, can be the knitwear with tubular knitted structure, the compound coil of described tubular knitted structure be formed by described crimp filament A and long filament B.

The woven fabric or the knitted fabric of woven fabric that contains crimp filament that saturating voidage is low when with water-wet of the present invention or knitted fabric, can be the woven fabric with machine-knitted structure, wherein any or both be made up of the doubling of the yarn that contains the yarn made by crimp filament A and made by long filament B in warp thread and the weft yarn.

Of the present invention in the woven fabric or knitted fabric of low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or knitted fabric with water-wet space-time crack rate, the yarn of making by crimp filament A and alternately be arranged to every kind of yarn in one or two direction of warp thread and weft direction or in one or two direction of line and stringer direction by every kind of yarn of yarn that long filament B makes.

Of the present invention in water-wet space-time crack the rate low woven fabric or knitted fabric that contain crimp filament, the preferred yarn that will make by crimp filament A and combine each other by the yarn that long filament B makes and to form core-integumentary pattern composite yarn, the core of wherein said composite yarn is made up of long filament B yarn, and skin zone is made up of described crimp filament A yarn.

In with water-wet space-time crack the rate low woven fabric or knitted fabric that contain crimp filament, preferred described long filament B is selected from has 300% or the elastomer of bigger elongation at break of the present invention.

When with the preferred aeration little at least 20% of the aeration when with water-wet when dry of the woven fabric of low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or knitted fabric or knitted fabric.

When being preferably the fabric that applies dyeing processing with water-wet space-time crack rate low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or knitted fabric.

When also being preferably the fabric that applies suction processing with water-wet space-time crack rate low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or knitted fabric.

Apply the fabric of refusing water processing when also being preferably with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or knitted fabric.

The method of producing woven fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention or knitted fabric is for according to the present invention, produce when with the low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or the method for knitted fabric, the method is characterized in that it comprises by the uncrimped fibers that is used to form crimp filament A and is used to form the fiber production precursor woven fabric of long filament B or the step of knitted fabric, wherein said uncrimped fibers reveals crimpiness through heat treatment table, and wherein said curling characteristic is for making that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet; Do not show the fiber of crimpiness and reveal crimpiness but wherein the characteristic of the curling at least a type in the not low in fact fiber of crimp percent when making though the wherein said fiber that is used to form long filament B contains to be selected from through described heat treatment when the usefulness water-wet through described heat treatment table; Wherein precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric are contained the woven fabric of crimp filament A and long filament B or the step of knitted fabric through heat treatment formation.

In the method for producing woven fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention or knitted fabric, the fiber that is preferred for forming crimp filament A is selected from the non-crimping conjugate fibre of being made by mylar component and polyamide component, and the hygroscopicity of these two kinds of fibers is with different from extensibility and with textural association side by side.

In the method for producing woven fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention or knitted fabric, preferably the mylar component in described uncrimped fibers comprises that intrinsic viscosity is the mylar of 0.30-0.43, and described polyamide component comprises that intrinsic viscosity is the polyamide of 1.0-1.4.

In the method for producing woven fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention or knitted fabric, preferred described uncrimped fibers has after the processing of curling in boiling water:

(1) in the environment of 20 ℃ of temperature, 65%RH, places the scope of dry crimp percent DC after 24 hours at 1.5-13%.

(2) in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, soak the scope of wetting crimp percent HC instant after 2 hours at 0.5-7.0%.

(3) poor (DC-HC) between described dry crimp percent DC and the wetting crimp percent HC is 0.5% or bigger.

Textile product of the present invention comprises woven fabric or the knitted fabric that contains the crimp filament that saturating voidage is low when with water-wet of the present invention.

Textile product of the present invention be preferably selected from the external application dress material, the motion with dress material and in use dress material.

The voidage of woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric is dwindled during with water-wet and is increased when dry, therefore when wetting, as perspiration cause wetting the time visibility just can not increase, and this woven fabric or knitted fabric for example in the rain water proofing property improved.Therefore woven fabric or the knitted fabric that contains crimp filament of the present invention can be used for external application dress material, motion dress material and interior material with dress material.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is for being illustrated in woven fabric of the present invention or the knitted fabric profile of the structure of an example of the crimp filament that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet.

Fig. 2 is for being illustrated in woven fabric of the present invention or the knitted fabric profile of the structure of another example of the crimp filament that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet.

Fig. 3 is for being illustrated in woven fabric of the present invention or the knitted fabric profile of the structure of another example of the crimp filament that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet.

The specific embodiment

Woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric contain crimp filament A that when with water-wet crimp percent reduces and by the long filament B that is selected from the non-crimping long filament and at least a type in the unconverted in fact crimp filament of crimp percent is formed when with water-wet.When woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric, when wetting, crimp filament A experience crimp percent reduces and its apparent length increases by sweat for example or rainwater.On the other hand, long filament B's because the wetting crimp percent that causes does not experience variation in fact, and therefore apparent length does not change, so in fact the yardstick of woven fabric or knitted fabric does not change.Therefore, because the apparent length increase of crimp filament A makes the voidage of described woven fabric or knitted fabric low.Yet when this woven fabric or knitted fabric drying, long filament B's curls or in fact not variation of apparent length, and the crimp percent of crimp filament A increases and show apparent contraction in length, so the voidage of this woven fabric or knitted fabric is increased.

For make woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric when showing that voidage is low when the water-wet, importantly: sample that will be by the crimp filament A that takes out from described woven fabric or knitted fabric is 20 ℃ of temperature, and the 65%RH environment was placed 24 hours down and the crimp percent DC of the sample of the crimp filament A of the drying of preparation f(%) with by described crimp filament A sample was soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, from water, mention, in the middle of being clipped in a pair of filter disc, it mentioned 60 seconds, and make it experience 0.69mN/m 2Pressure 5 seconds and wipe the water on the sample gently and the crimp percent HC of the sample of the wetting crimp filament A for preparing f(%), satisfy following require (1):

(DC f-HC f)≥10(%) (1)

And importantly: when for by from described woven fabric or knitted fabric, getting the loose 30cm of a warp thread (or stringer) direction, the square sample of the long 30cm of stringer (or line) direction also makes this woven fabric or the knitted fabric sample is 20 ℃ in temperature, the woven fabric or the knitted fabric sample of the drying of placing 24 hours under the environment of 65%RH and preparing, when the length L PD (mm) of measurement warp thread (or stringer) direction and the length L FD (mm) of weft yarn (or line) direction, and when described crimp filament A sample being soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature for passing through, from water, mention, this specimen holder was mentioned 60 seconds in the middle of a pair of filter disc, make its experience 0.69mN/m 2Pressure 5 seconds and wipe the water on the sample gently and the wetting crimp filament A sample for preparing, when measuring the length L FH (mm) of the length L PH (mm) of warp thread (or stringer) direction and weft yarn (or line) direction, and the value of working as LPD, LFD, LPH and LFH is used for following requirement (2) and (3):

RP(%)=((LPH-LPD)/LPD)×100 (2)

RF(%)=((LFH-LFD)/LFD)×100 (3)

During with calculating yardstick rate of change RP (%) and dimensional variation rate RF (%), wherein described woven fabric of RP (%) representative or knitted fabric when wetting length (LPH) and the difference of the length (LPD) when drying with respect to the ratio of the length (LPD) of warp thread (or stringer) direction when the drying, described woven fabric of RF (%) representative or knitted fabric when wetting length (LFH) and the difference of the length (LFD) when dry with respect to the ratio of the length (LFD) of weft yarn (or line) direction when dry, requirement (4) below its average RA is satisfied:

RA(%)=(RP+RF)/2≤5% (4)。

(DC f-HC f) value be preferably 15-30%, and the value of RA is preferably 1-3%.If value (DCf-HCf) less than 10% and/or the value of RA greater than 5%, the elongation of described woven fabric or knitted fabric will be offset the elongation that is reduced the crimp filament A apparent length that causes when this woven fabric or knitted fabric during with water-wet by the crimp percent of crimp filament A as a whole, so just stop the voidage of described woven fabric or knitted fabric low.

The crimp percent of crimp filament A is measured by following method in woven fabric or knitted fabric.

Woven fabric to be tested or knitted fabric were placed 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% environment, sheared the band (n=5) of 30cm * 30cm then with the direction identical from this woven fabric or knitted fabric with this woven fabric or knitted fabric.Crimp filament A is shifted out and makes the load of its experience 1.76mN/dtex (200mg/de) and measures the length L 0f of this long filament from each band, removing load after 1 minute then, apply the load of 0.0176mN/dtex (2mg/de), and measure the length L 1f of this long filament.Equally, this long filament was soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, take out then and wipe water on the sample gently with filter paper, apply the load of 1.76mN/dtex (200mg/de) afterwards, measure the length L 0f ' of this long filament, removing load after 1 minute, apply the load of 0.0176mN/dtex (2mg/de), and measure the length L 1f ' of this long filament then.Measured numerical value is used in the following formula to calculate the crimp percent DC when dry f(%), the crimp percent HC when wetting f(%) and as poor (DC dry and crimp percent when wetting f-HC f) (%).Calculate the inferior mean value of n (5).

Dry crimp percent DC f(%)=((L0f-L1f)/L0f) * 100

Wetting crimp percent HC f(%)=((L0f '-L1f ')/L0f ') * 100

For the crimp filament A that takes out from woven fabric or knitted fabric that treats as crimp filament, poor (DC-HC) between importantly wherein dry crimp percent DC (%) and the wetting crimp percent HC (%) is at least 10%.

This crimp filament A is preferably selected from water imbibition with from curling conjugate fibre differing from each other aspect the extensibility, this crimp filament A is made up of mylar component and polyamide component with form combination side by side, and has the curling of forming by their performance of potential curl characteristics.

As the mylar component that is ready to use in conjugate fibre, preferably have and bonding those of above-mentioned polyamide height, and for example, the preferred modified poly ester that uses, as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), its can with the compound copolymerization of sulfate with alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal Huo Phosphonium, and it has one or more functional groups that can form ester.Wherein especially preferred is modification polyethylene terephthalate with above-mentioned compound copolymerization, because their versatility and polymer cost are low.The example of copolymerization component in the case comprises 5-sodium sulfo isophthalate and ester derivant thereof, and the 5-Phosphonium is for M-phthalic acid and ester derivant thereof, p-hydroxy benzenyl sulfonate sodium or the like.5-sodium sulfo isophthalate preferably wherein.The amount of copolymerization is preferably 2.0-4.5 mole % with respect to the acid constituents in described mylar.Bonded interface if the amount of described copolymerization less than 2 moles of %, can show good crimp property between polyamide component and mylar component may peel off.On the contrary, if the amount of copolymerization greater than 4.5 moles of %, can suppress the crystallization of mylar component in the stretching heat treatment process, therefore need be than higher stretching heat treatment temperature level usually, and potentially cause a large amount of yarn breakages.

On the other hand, the polyamide component is not particularly limited, as long as it has amido link on main chain, and can mention nylon as an example-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon 46 and nylon 12.Wherein from especially preferred nylon-6 of the viewpoint of versatility, polymer cost and wrapping wire stability and nylon-66.

Mylar component and polyamide component also can contain known additive for example pigment, matting agent, anti-fouling agent, fluorescent whitening agent, fire retardant, stabilizing agent, antistatic additive, photostabilizer, ultra-violet absorber or the like.

Profile shape for the conjugate fibre side by side of described crimp filament A is not particularly limited, not and the mylar component in this profile and the joint line between the polyamide component can come down to or be straight line fully.The example of the shape of the cross section of described conjugate fibre is shown among Fig. 1-3.In Fig. 1, conjugate fibre 1 has the shape of cross section of annular, and is made up of mylar component 2 that combines and polyamide component 3, has the joint line that comes down to straight line.In Fig. 2, conjugate fibre 1 has oval-shaped shape of cross section, and is made up of mylar component 2 that combines and polyamide component 3, has the joint line that comes down to straight line.In Fig. 3, conjugate fibre 1 has the shape of cross section of annular, and form by mylar component 2 that combines and polyamide component 3, but described polyamide component 3 has the shape of cross section of sub-circular, and be arranged in the mylar component of the shape of cross section that also has sub-circular, the position is close like eccentric core-integumentary pattern structure.Yet a part of edge of mylar component 3 is the part edges that expose and form conjugate fibre.

The shape of cross section of conjugate fibre can not be annular or ellipse but polygon for example triangle or square, or star or or even hollow.Yet the shape of cross section of conjugate fibre is preferably annular and reduces crimp percent with convenient water when wetting effectively.

The weight ratio of two kinds of resin Compositions is not particularly limited in the conjugate fibre of crimp filament A, but the mylar component is preferably 30 with respect to the weight ratio of polyamide component: 70-70: 30, more preferably 40: 60-60: 40.

Quantity for the independent long filament of the independent long filament thickness of crimp filament A or the crimp filament A that contains in the crimp filament yarn has no particular limits, but the thickness of long filament is preferably 1-10dtex and 2-5dtex more preferably separately.Separately the quantity of long filament is preferably 10-200 and 20-100 more preferably in crimp filament A yarn.

The conjugate fibre side by side of the non-crimping of being made up of above-mentioned two kinds different resin Compositions has potential curl characteristics, and therefore shows curling when experiencing the heat treatment of for example high-temp dyeing processing.In this curling conjugate fibre, preferred described polyamide component is positioned at curling inside, and the mylar component is positioned at curling outside.When the curling conjugate fibre with this coiled structure is used water-wet, being positioned at the inner polyamide component of curling is expanded and expansion by water-soluble, and be positioned at curl outside mylar not by water-soluble expand and their length constant, this makes the crimp percent of conjugate fibre reduce, and apparent length increases.On the other hand when with the curling conjugate fibre of water-wet when dry, the polyamide component is shunk and mylar length does not change, and this makes the crimp percent of conjugate fibre increase and the apparent length of the conjugate fibre that curls shortens.

Described crimp filament A is preferably in not twist yarn that is not more than the 300T/m twist or false twist yarn, so that crimp percent and the elongation of minimizing when with water-wet.Especially preferred twist yarn not.Use has the tight twist yarn of heavy twist greater than 300T/m, when using water-wet, curls and reduces sometimes.

Equally, the yarn that contains crimp filament can pass through, and for example, alternately air-treatment and/or false twisting are handled, and this processing can cause the staggered of independent long filament in the yarn, and staggered quantity is 20-60/m.

As long as satisfy above-mentioned condition, for not special other restriction of the type of the long filament B that is used for woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric, promptly described long filament be non-crimping maybe when with water-wet crimp percent do not experience variation in fact.Here, sentence " crimp percent does not experience variation in fact when with the water-wet " meaning be when described long filament under these conditions poor (DC-HC) of the dry crimp percent DC (%) during drying and the wetting crimp percent HC (%) when they use water-wet under these conditions less than 0.5 (%).

The long filament B that is used for woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric comprises the long filament that is fit to do clothes, and can be polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, poly-terephthalic acids trimethyl and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polyamide such as nylon-6 and nylon 66, polyolefin such as polyethylene and polypropylene, the synthetic thread that forms by the acrylic acid series compound, to or-aromatic polyamides and their modified synthetic resin, natural fabric, regenerated fiber, semisynthetic fibre, based on the elastomer of polyurethane with based on the elastomer of polyether ester.Wherein preferred polyethylene terephthalate, poly terephthalic acid propylene glycol and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) ester and the polyester filament of being made up of the modified poly ester that they and copolymerization component copolymerisation obtain are because their high dimensional stabilities when wetting and their compatibilities fabulous with crimp filament A (combined yarn characteristic, mix knitting or mixed textile characteristic and dyeing property).In the yarn that contains long filament B, the independent long filament thickness of long filament B or the quantity (number of filaments) of independent long filament are also had no particular limits, but for hygroscopicity and the further aeration that improves when wetting that improves woven fabric or knitted fabric, separately the thickness of long filament is preferably 0.1-5dtex (0.5-2dtex more preferably), and the number of filaments of every one thread is preferably 20-200 and 30-100 more preferably.The yarn that contains long filament B can be through alternately air-treatment and/or common false twisting are handled.This processing can cause in the yarn the staggered of long filament separately, and staggered number is about 20-60/m.

Woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric contain crimp filament A that above-mentioned crimp percent when with water-wet reduces and by the non-crimping long filament and/or when with water-wet crimp percent do not experience the long filament B that the fiber of variation is made in fact.The both can perhaps can be used as the combined yarn yarn and form woven fabric or knitted fabric, described combined yarn yarn such as air blended yarn, two twist yarn, composit false twisting texturized yarn, doubling etc. as the independently yarn that forms woven fabric or knitted fabric.

Here the reticulate pattern or the number of plies of producing woven fabric or knitted fabric had no particular limits.For example, can suitably adopt the weaving reticulate pattern, for example plain weave, twill or satin weave, or knitting reticulate pattern such as plain stitch, sliding knitting, round rib-loop is knitting, seed is knitting, plating structure, sley bar tissue, partly knitting or the like.Yet, to this not restriction.Can be individual layer or have two-layer or more multi-layered multilayer for the layer structure that constitutes woven fabric or knitted fabric.

The pattern of woven fabric or knitted fabric comprises:

(1) woven fabric or knitted fabric, it has the woven or knitted structure of two-layer or more multi-layered multilayer, wherein at least one layer in the woven or knitted structure of multilayer contains the crimp filament A that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer, and in other layer at least one deck contain the long filament B that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer

(2) have the knitted fabric of tubular knitted structure, wherein the compound coil of this tubular knitted structure is formed by crimp filament A and long filament B.

(3) have the woven fabric of weaving reticulate pattern, wherein a kind of the or both of warp thread and weft yarn is made up of the doubling of the yarn that contains yarn that crimp filament A makes and made by long filament B.

(4) woven fabric or knitted fabric, wherein yarn of being made by crimp filament A and the yarn made by long filament B alternately are arranged to every kind of yarn in any or both direction of warp thread or weft direction or in any or both direction of line and stringer direction by yarn.

(5) woven fabric or knitted fabric, the yarn that to be made by crimp filament A and combined by the yarn that long filament B makes and to form core-integumentary pattern composite yarn together wherein, the core of wherein said conjugation yarn is made up of long filament B yarn and skin zone is made up of described crimp filament A yarn.

In core in above-mentioned pattern (5)-integumentary pattern composite yarn, importantly the length L B of skin yarn length LA that is made by crimp filament A and the heart yarn made by long filament B satisfies relational expression: LA>LB.That is to say, if LA≤LB, resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric wetting will cause that the crimp percent among the crimp filament A that forms the skin yarn reduces and when apparent length increases, because the stretching of the crimp filament A skin yarn that prolongs also will prolong the long filament B yarn that forms core, finally change on woven fabric or knitted fabric overall dimension; Therefore, reduction of the crimp percent of crimp filament A and apparent length increase can not contribute to woven fabric or knitted fabric voidage integral body are dwindled.Above-mentioned relation formula LA>LB can satisfy by the following method: the yarn that (1) wherein will have boiling water shrinkage 20% or a more high percent thermal shrinkage is used to produce as core long filament B yarn and contains skin zone with crimp filament A yarn and the core composite yarn with the long filament B yarn of high percent thermal shrinkage, produce precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric by this composite yarn, and be used to make long filament B yarn heat to shrink this precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric experience thermal contraction processing, so that satisfy formula LA>LB, (2) wherein with elastic filament as long filament B yarn and they under the state of elastic filament B elongation with crimp filament A blending or and close, to produce precursor core-integumentary pattern composite yarn, in the past in bluk recombination yarn eliminate elongation thereafter, in elastic filament B, produce elastic shrinkage, with realization expression formula LA>LB, and by core-integumentary pattern composite yarn production woven fabric or knitted fabric.

In woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric, the heart yarn in core-integumentary pattern composite yarn and the length L A of skin yarn and LB can measure by the following method.

Woven fabric to be tested or knitted fabric were placed 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% environment, from woven fabric or the knitted fabric long and loose sample of weft yarn (or line) direction 30cm of yarn (or stringer) direction 30cm of learning from else's experience, then from the core-integumentary pattern composite yarn of orientation with identical direction taking-up crimp filament A yarn and long filament B yarn.The length L A of crimp filament A yarn measures under the load of 1.76mN/dtex, and the length L B of long filament B yarn measures under the load of 1.76mN/dtex, if it is the non-resilient filament yarn that is up to 200% elongation at break, perhaps under the load of 0.0088mN/dtex, measure, if it is the elastic filament yarn that surpasses 20% high elongation at tear.

The elastic filament that is used as long filament B in woven fabric of the present invention or the knitted fabric preferably has 300% or bigger elongation at break.

The method of producing woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric comprises by the uncrimped fibers that is used to form crimp filament A and is used to form the fiber production precursor woven fabric of long filament B or the step of knitted fabric, wherein said uncrimped fibers reveals curl shape through heat treatment table, and wherein said curling characteristic is for making that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet, though the wherein said fiber that is used to form long filament B contain be selected from through described heat treatment do not show crimpiness fiber and through described heat treatment table reveal crimpiness but the characteristic of curling wherein make in the not low in fact fiber of when with water-wet crimp percent at least a type and wherein precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric are comprised the woven fabric of crimp filament A and long filament B or the step of knitted fabric through heat treatment formation.

In process of the present invention, the fiber that is preferred for forming crimp filament A be selected from by hygroscopicity with from extensibility different itself and the non-crimping conjugate fibres made with the mylar component and the polyamide component of form combination side by side.Equally, the mylar component of preferred described uncrimped fibers comprises that intrinsic viscosity is that mylar and the preferred described polyamide component of 0.30-0.43 comprises that intrinsic viscosity is the polyamide of 1.0-1.4.The intrinsic viscosity of the mylar component of uncrimped fibers is the intrinsic viscosity 1.2-1.4 more preferably of 0.35-0.40 and described polyamide more preferably.The intrinsic viscosity of mylar is measured as solvent with o-chlorphenol under 35 ℃ temperature, and the intrinsic viscosity of polyamide is measured as solvent with metacresol under 30 ℃ temperature.

In above-mentioned production process, intrinsic viscosity is higher than 0.43 mylar component and produces physical characteristic and the similar conjugate fibre of being made up of independent mylar component of fiber, and can prevent that voidage from reducing during with water-wet when this woven fabric or knitted fabric.Equally, intrinsic viscosity has too reduced the intrinsic viscosity of molten polyester resin component in the melt spinning step less than 0.30 mylar component, cause the formability deficiency of fiber, in the conjugate fibre that obtains, increased the generation of fluffing, and underproof quality of described conjugate fibre and inadequate production efficiency.

The spinning head that is used for producing side-by-side conjugated filament A can be shown in Figure 1 a kind of of the open 2000-144518 of Japanese unexamined patent.In this spinning head, for the extrusion of high viscosity resins component and for the extrusion of low viscosity resin component separately, being designed to increases to reduce rate of extrusion for the cross-sectional area of the extrusion of high viscosity resins.The mylar component that such spinning head is used to make fusion, is converged two types melt-flow and is cooled off them to solidify with form side by side by the low viscosity resin extrusion by high viscosity resins extrusion and the polyamide that makes fusion.In this melt spinning step, the mylar component is preferably 30: 70 to 70: 30 with respect to the weight ratio of polyamide component, more preferably 40: 60 to 60: 40.

In order to produce above-mentioned conjugate fibre side by side, the fiber yarn of producing in the melt spinning step (harness) that does not stretch can at first roll to be provided to then in the stretching step and (stretch separately), and perhaps the fusion undrawn filament yarn that is spun into (not harness) can be directly used in stretching heat treatment step (directly stretching) without winding.Described stretching step can be carried out under usual conditions.For example, in direct tensioning system, the spinning step is to carry out under 1000 to 3500m/min at spinning speed, and the not drawing of fiber yarn draw ratio on request that obtains, and stretches immediately when 100-150 ℃ temperature and twines.Draw ratio is approximate to be made as the elongation at break that makes the conjugate fibre that obtains at last and to be preferably 10-60% and 20-45% more preferably, and TENSILE STRENGTH is preferably 3.0-4.7cN/dtex and 3.0-4.0cN/dtex more preferably.

The not crimped fibre of the conjugate fibre that is used for crimp filament A that is obtained by production method of the present invention preferably has after curling processing at boiling water

(1) scope of placement dry crimp percent DC after 24 hours is 1.5-13% in the environment of 20 ℃ of temperature, 65%RH.

(2) scope of immersion instant wetting crimp percent HC after 2 hours is 0.5-7.0% in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature.

(3) poor (DC-HC) between described dry crimp percent DC and the wetting crimp percent HC is 0.5% or bigger.

Dry crimp percent DC and wetting crimp percent HC measure by following method.

With girth is that the bobbin winder bracket of 1.125m is used for recoiling to produce little line strand with the fixed speeds of 10 circles under the load of 49/50mN * 9 * total tex (0.1gf * total fiber number), will this little line strand be twisted into dicyclo and be positioned over the initial load that stands 49/2500mN * 20 * 9 * total tex (2mg * 20 * total fiber number) in the boiling water simultaneously and handled 30 minutes, be used in dry 30 minutes of drier under 100 ℃ then, xeothermicly stand initial load simultaneously and handled 5 minutes at 160 ℃ then.Remove initial load after the dry heat treatment, after under 25 ℃ of temperature, in the environment of 60%RH, placing at least 24 hours, apply the double-charge of initial load and 98/50mN * 20 * 9 * total tex (0.2gf * 20 * total fiber number), the length L 0 of slotted line strand, only double-charge is removed immediately, the releasing load is slotted line strand length L 1 after 1 minute.Then the line strand was soaked 2 hours under initial load in 20 ℃ water simultaneously, and after removing and wiping water gently, it is stood initial load and double-charge, slotted line strand length L 0 ' with filter paper, only remove double-charge immediately, removing load slotted line strand length L 1 ' after 1 minute.These data substitution following formulas that record are calculated dry crimp percent (DC), poor (DC-HC) of wetting crimp percent (HC) and dry and wetting crimp percent.

Dry crimp percent DC (%)=((L0-L1)/L0) * 100

Wetting crimp percent HC (%)=((L0 '-L1 ')/L0 ') * 100

If the dry crimp percent of conjugate fibre is less than 1.5%, the crimp percent when wetting changes and reduces, so the variation of the aeration of woven fabric or knitted fabric may be less.On the contrary, curling when having suppressed wetting if the dry crimp percent of conjugate fibre greater than 13%, curls enough big changes, and the aeration of woven fabric or knitted fabric equally may be less.If the difference of the crimp percent of conjugate fibre is less than 0.5% when dry and wetting, the aeration of woven fabric or knitted fabric changes may be too small.

In the method for producing woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric, above-mentioned non-crimping conjugate fibre, and non-crimping, the hot water shrinkage be 20% bigger or when wetting the constant in fact long filament B that curls of crimp percent, be used for weaving or knitting precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric, it is then through dyeing, and wherein dyeing heat produces curling in the conjugate fibre and contains woven fabric or the knitted fabric of crimp filament A with production.When use to curl conjugated filament A yarn and long filament B yarn obtain core-integumentary pattern composite yarn, importantly in composite yarn the length L A of crimp filament A yarn greater than the length L B of long filament B yarn.

Weaving or knitting reticulate pattern for woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric have no particular limits.

In production method of the present invention, the temperature of dyeing processing is preferably 100-140 ℃ and more preferably 110-135 ℃, and the dyeing time preferable range is in the retention time of conduct in 5-40 minute in maximum temperature.Dyeing with woven fabric or knitted fabric will make the non-crimping conjugate fibre show curling by the thermal contraction difference between mylar component and the polyamide component in these cases.Mylar component and polyamide component can be selected from above-mentioned polymer to produce the coiled structure that polyamide component is positioned at curling inboard.

The woven fabric or the knitted fabric that dyed look are common through final xeothermic fixation.The temperature of final xeothermic fixation is preferably 120-200 ℃ and more preferably 140-180 ℃, and the time is preferably 1-3 minute.Be lower than 120 ℃ if be used for the temperature of final xeothermic fixation,, and may destroy the dimensional stability of finished product the contraction that keeps producing during the dyeing.On the contrary, be higher than 200 ℃ if be used for the temperature of final xeothermic fixation, conjugate fibre curling during dyeing will be reduced and fiber makes hardening the clothing sensation hard.

In woven fabric that obtains by this way or knitted fabric, the aeration when wetting is low by at least 20% during preferably than drying, more preferably 30-100%.Aeration is the characteristic of the voidage of machine representation fabric or knitted fabric, and the low aeration of woven fabric or knitted fabric means less voidage.Aeration is according to JIS L 1,096 1998,6.27.1, the value (ml/cm that A (Fragile-type aeration method of testing) measures 2/ s).

" drying " in this article refers to the sample state of placing 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% environment, and " moistening " be meant and soaked 2 hours in 20 ℃ water, and it is clipped in a pair of filter disc, makes it stand 490N/m 2Pressure was also wiped the sample state behind the water in 1 minute gently; Measure the aeration (n=5) of each state, and calculating mean value.

Woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric depend on that purpose and purpose purposes preferably pass through moisture absorption processing and/or WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT.For example, if purpose is to improve to resist by making the motion that causes dress material and interior visibility with dress material soaked with sweat, it preferably experiences moisture absorption and handles.It is because it has increased the diffusion rate of sweat and has prevented sticking sensation that the moisture absorption of preferred woven fabric or knitted fabric is handled, also increase simultaneously the variation ratio that curls among the crimp filament A that crimp percent reduces when wetting, and increased the speed of response of improved anti-visibility.Equally, when purpose be preferably through WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT when improving wind coat or skating and anorak in water proofing property in the rain.Preferred WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT is because it has increased initial water proofing property, while is during the waterproof coating on the surface of woven fabric or knitted fabric is rainproof, voidage by crimp filament A absorption wet steam and water by the reduction of crimp percent when wetting reduce woven fabric or knitted fabric has improved water proofing property thus.

The reagent that is used for the moisture absorption processing is preferably the polyethylene glycol or derivatives thereof, or the copolymer of polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol, and the amount of adhering to is the 0.25-0.50 weight % with respect to the weight of woven fabric or knitted fabric.The method that moisture absorption is handled can be, for example, bathing in a common bathing pool facture wherein hygroscopic agent is mixed with staining solution during dyeing, or rubbing method is as immersing woven fabric or knitted fabric in the moisture absorption Treatment Solution and with mangle extruding, intaglio plate rubbing method or silk screen print method before final xeothermic fixation.

On the other hand, preferably carry out WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT and be level 4 at least in the later water proofing property of WATER REPELLENT TREATMENT according to JIS L1092 6.2 (spray testing) up to described woven fabric or knitted fabric.Have individual example be a method wherein (for example with commercially available waterproofing agent based on fluorine, Asahi GlassCo., the Asahi Guard LS-317 of Ltd) as waterproofing agent, if desired, with melmac and mixture of catalysts, be used to prepare and have the reagent treatment that waterproofing agent content is 3-15 weight %, and this reagent treatment is used for picking up the surface of (pickup) rate for processing fabric under about 50-90%.The method of using repellent agent to handle described fabric face can be pad dyeing (pad) method, injection method or the like, but penetrates into the viewpoint pad dyeing method most preferably of the inside of fiber from reagent treatment.The rate of picking up is meant the weight ratio (%) of reagent treatment with respect to fabric weight (before using reagent treatment).

When woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric were wetting by sweat or rainwater, described crimp filament A extended owing to they self amount of curl reduces.Do not extend even simultaneously described long filament B is wetting, and the yardstick that therefore woven fabric or knitted fabric is maintained fixed yet, cause the voidage of woven fabric or knitted fabric to reduce and improve the anti-visibility and the fire resistance characteristic of woven fabric or knitted fabric.

Except above-mentioned processing, can adopt common method with woven fabric of the present invention or knitted fabric through piling handle, shielding of ultraviolet, or variously give the processing that antimicrobial reagent, deodorant, pesticide, luminous agent, luminous agent, reflective agent, anion produce the function of agent etc.

According to of the present invention, have the woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric that ought reduce and can be used for producing dissimilar textile products with water-wet space-time crack rate.These textile products comprise the external application dress material, the motion with dress material and in use dress material.

Embodiment

The present invention will explain in more detail by following embodiment now, should understand the present invention and be limited to these embodiment never in any form.Carry out following measurement for embodiment and Comparative Examples.

(1) intrinsic viscosity of polyester

Use o-chlorphenol to measure down at 35 ℃ as solvent.

(2) intrinsic viscosity of polyamide

Use metacresol to measure down at 30 ℃ as solvent.

(3) TENSILE STRENGTH and elongation at break

Fiber sample is placed on remains on diel in 25 ℃, the stable temperature and humidity cell of 60%RH atmosphere, then that 100mm is long sample is placed into Shimadzu LaboratoriesCo., in the tensile test device of Ltd, and stretch the TENSILE STRENGTH (cN/dtex) when measuring fracture thus and extend (%) with the speed of 200mm/min.Mean value when calculating n=5 time.

(4) boiling water shrinkage

Boiling water shrinkage (hot water shrinkage) (%) is measured according to the method for JISL1013 1998,7.15 regulations.Mean value when calculating n=3.

(5) crimp percent of conjugate fibre

With girth is that the bobbin winder bracket of 1.125m is used for recoiling to produce little line strand with the fixed speeds of 10 circles under the load of 49/50mN * 9 * total tex (0.1gf * total fiber number), will this little line strand be twisted into dicyclo and be positioned over the initial load that stands 49/2500mN * 20 * 9 * total tex (2mg * 20 * total fiber number) in the boiling water simultaneously and handled 30 minutes, then with dry 30 minutes of the drier of drier 100 ℃ under, xeothermicly stand initial load processing 5 minutes simultaneously at 160 ℃ then.Separate after the dry heat treatment and remove initial load, after under 25 ℃ of temperature, in the environment of 60%RH, placing at least 24 hours, apply the double-charge of initial load and 98/50mN * 20 * 9 * total tex (0.2gf * 20 * total fiber number), the length L 0 of slotted line strand, only double-charge is removed immediately, the releasing load is slotted line strand length L 1 after 1 minute.Then the line strand was soaked 2 hours under initial load in 20 ℃ water simultaneously, and after removing and wiping water gently, it is stood initial load and double-charge, slotted line strand length L 0 ' with filter paper, only remove double-charge immediately, removing load slotted line strand length L 1 ' after 1 minute.These data substitution following formulas that record are calculated dry crimp percent (DC), poor (DC-HC) of wetting crimp percent (HC) and dry and wetting crimp percent.Calculate n=5 time mean value.

Dry crimp percent DC (%)=((L0-L1)/L0) * 100

Wetting crimp percent HC (%)=((L0 '-L1 ')/L0 ') * 100

(6) crimp percent of the curling conjugate fibre in woven fabric or the knitted fabric

Woven fabric or knitted fabric were placed to be measured (n=5) of learn from else's experience then long 30cm of yarn (or stringer) direction and the loose 30cm of weft yarn (or line) direction 24 hours from woven fabric or knitted fabric in 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% atmosphere.Crimp filament A takes out and applies the load of 1.76mN/dtex (200mg/de) and measures filament length L0f from each to be measured, removing load after 1 minute, apply the load of 0.0176mN/dtex (2mg/de), and measure the length L 1f of this long filament then.Equally, this long filament was soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, taking-up is positioned between a pair of filter disc, at 0.69mN/m then 2Pressure under 5 seconds and wipe water gently, apply the load of 1.76mN/dtex (200mg/de) afterwards, measure the length of this long filament, then after releasing load 1 minute, apply the load of 0.0176mN/dtex (2mg/de), and measure the length L 1f ' of this long filament.Measured numerical value is used in the crimp percent DC that calculates in the following formula when dry f(%), the crimp percent HC when wetting f(%) and as poor (DC dry and crimp percent when wetting f-HC f) (%).Calculate the inferior mean value of n (5).

Dry crimp percent DC f(%)=((L0f-L1f)/L0f) * 100

Wetting crimp percent HC f(%)=((L0f '-L1f ')/L0f ') * 100

(7) aeration

Aeration is measured by following method, as the character of the voidage of representing woven fabric or knitted fabric.According to JIS L1096 1998,6.27.1, A (Fragile type aeration testing machine method) has measured the dry aeration (cc/cm of woven fabric or knitted fabric 2/ s) and moistening aeration (cc/cm 2/ s)." drying " is meant the sample state after placing 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% the environment, and " moistening " be meant and soaked 2 hours in 20 ℃ water, is clipped in a pair of filter disc, makes it stand 490N/m 2The sample state behind the water was pressed 1 minute and wiped gently to pressure; Measure the aeration (n=5) and the calculating mean value of every kind of state.The variation of aeration is calculated by following equation.

The rate of change of aeration (%)=(dry aeration-moistening aeration)/dry aeration * 100%

(8) the dimensional variation rate RA of sample:

The dimensional variation rate RA of woven fabric or knitted fabric sample calculates according to following equation.Mean value when calculating n=5.

RA(%)=(RP+RF)/2

RP(%)=((LPH-LPD)/LPD)×100

RF(%)=((LFH-LFD)/LFD)×100

Here representative sample is in the length when with water-wet of warp thread (or stringer) direction and weft yarn (or line) direction and the length when dry respectively for LPH, LPD, LFH and LFD, and wherein sample is warp thread (or stringer) direction 30cm length and the loose square of weft yarn (or line) direction 30cm of taking from woven fabric or knitted fabric.LPH: the length (mm) of warp thread when sample is wetting (or stringer) direction, LPD: the length (mm) of warp thread during sample drying (or stringer) direction, LFH: the length (mm) of weft yarn when sample is wetting (or line) direction; LFD: the length (mm) of weft yarn during sample drying (or line) direction, " wetting " are meant in 20 ℃ water soaked 2 hours, immediately it was clipped between a pair of filter disc, made it stand 0.69mN/m 2Pressure was pressed for 5 seconds and is wiped sample state behind the water gently, and " drying " is meant the sample state after placing 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% the environment.

(9) measure length of yarn

Woven fabric or knitted fabric were placed 24 hours under 20 ℃ of temperature, 65% environment, downcut the band (n=5) of 30cm (warp thread (or stringer) direction) * 30cm (weft yarn (or line) direction) then.Then, from every band, take out conjugated filament A yarn and long filament B yarn, under load that applies 0.0088mN/dtex under the situation of elastic filament or situation, apply the load of 1.76mN/dtex, and measure the length L A of conjugated filament A yarn and the length L B of another kind of long filament B yarn at non-resilient long filament.Mean value when calculating n=5.

Embodiment 1

Be 1.3 nylon-6 with intrinsic viscosity [η] and have the modification polyethylene terephthalate that intrinsic viscosity [η] is 0.39 5-sodium sulfo isophthalate copolymerization with 2.6 moles of %, respectively 270 ℃ and 290 ℃ of fusions, and (hole of wherein spinning is by the identical circumference of being located substantially on of two kinds of arches at the conjugate fibre spinning head shown in the open 2000-144518 Fig. 1 of Japanese unexamined patent, the spinneret hole that the slit A of spacing (d) and B form, and the area SA of arch slit A wherein, the width A1 of slit, the area SB of arch slit B, the width B 1 of slit and satisfy following inequality [1]-[4] simultaneously by the area of the interior girth decision of arch slit A and B:

【1】B1<A1

【2】1.1≤SA/SB≤1.8

【3】0.4≤(SA+SB)/SC≤10.0

【4】d/A1≤3.0)

Be used for extruding polyethylene terephthalate and extruding nylon-6 from slit B from slit A, extruded velocity respectively is 12.7g/min, then through cooling curing and use the conjugate fibre that do not stretch side by side with shape of cross section shown in Figure 1 that lubricant forms.Long filament uses the preheat roll preheating, speed is that 1000m/min and temperature are 60 ℃, stretching heat treatment between preheat roll and warm-up mill is heated to 150 ℃ then, and speed is 3050m/min (drawing coefficient: 3.05) also twine the non-crimping conjugate fibre that obtains 86dtex * 24fil.

The stretching conjugate fibre that obtains to cause disconnected TENSILE STRENGTH be 3.4cN/dtex, and elongation at break is 40%.When the crimp percent measured through the conjugate fibre of boiling water treating, dry crimp percent DC is 3.3%, and wetting crimp percent is 1.6%, and poor (DC-HC) between dry crimp percent DC and the wetting crimp percent HC is 1.7%.

Conjugate fibre yarn (without boiling water treating and not curling or sth. made by twisting) all is arranged on the preceding reed of 36 pin tricot knitting machines, and the filament yarn (33dtex/12fil) of the non-crimping polyethylene terephthalate of boiling water shrinkage 20% all is arranged on the back reed of tricot knitting machine, be used for the knitted structure is front 10-23, and back 12-10 is with the knitting tricot stitch bonded fabrics of 110/2.54cm direction of machine.

With the tricot stitch bonded fabrics in the highest 130 ℃ temperature with keeping under the highest temperature dyeing under 15 minutes the situation, be used for the performance of the latent crimp characteristic of conjugate fibre, thereby produce the tricot knit goods that contains the conjugate fibre yarn that curls, use the waterproofing agent (ASAHIGUARD that contains 8 weight % then based on fluororesin TMAG710, Asahi Glass Co., the product of Ltd) Treatment Solution carry out pad dyeing and handle, dry and 160 ℃ of final dry fixation of warp 1 minute under 100 ℃ temperature then.

The characteristic of the tricot stitch bonded fabrics that obtains is as follows.

LPH:305mm

LPD:300mm

LFH:311mm

RP:1.7%

RF:3.7%

RA:2.7%

Dry aeration: 14ml/cm2/s

Humidity ventilation: 10ml/cm2/s

Aeration changes: 40%

Knitted fabric has when the voidage that reduces with water-wet and thereby less aeration is arranged, and therefore satisfies the demand.

The yarn long (LA) of (crimp filament A yarn) of taking from the conjugate fibre yarn of knitted fabric is 2700mm, and the yarn of long filament B long (LB) is 1890mm, so LA is longer than LB.Equally, take from the dry crimp percent DC of the curling conjugated filament A of knitted fabric fBe 7%, wetting crimp percent HC fBe 52%, do the poor (DC of wet crimp percent f-HC f) be 18%.

Comparative Examples 1

The non-crimping long filament that is used for embodiment 1 all is arranged in the preceding reed and the back reed of 28 pin tricot knitting machines, and being used for knitted structure is preceding 10-23, and back 12-10's with the knitting tricot stitch bonded fabrics of the direction of 60/2.54cm on the machine.Also the fabric that obtains is dyeed and final xeothermic fixation in the mode identical with embodiment 1.

The knitted fabric that obtains is not satisfied the demand, LPH:3.15, LPD:300mm, LFH:330mm, LFD:300mm, RP:5.0%, RF:10.0%, RA:7.5%, dry aeration: 140cc/cm 2/ s, humidity ventilation: 250cc/cm 2/ s and aeration change :-79%, and promptly aeration increases greatly when wetting.Equally, for the conjugate fibre that from fabric, takes out, dry crimp percent DC fBe 62%, wetting crimp percent HC fBe 38% and do the poor (DC of wet crimp percent f-HC f) be 22%.

Industrial usability

According to the present invention, can obtain to have by effectively dwindling compare with drying regime wetting The voidage of state and woven fabric and the knitted fabric of improved anti-visibility and fire resistance characteristic. Described Woven fabric and knitted fabric can be used for external application dress material, motion with dress material and the interior dress material of using, and provide and press down The effect of visibility and improve in the rain water proofing property when making sweat, so their industrial value is very high.

Claims (21)

1. woven fabric or knitted fabric, it contains crimp percent reduces when with water-wet crimp filament A and by at least a long filament B that forms that is selected from no crimp filament and crimp percent is constant in fact when with water-wet the crimp filament,
It is characterized in that the sample by making the described crimp filament A that takes out from described woven fabric or knitted fabric is 20 ℃ of temperature, the 65%RH environment was placed 24 hours down and the crimp percent DC of the dry crimp filament A sample of preparation f(%) with by described crimp filament A sample was soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, from water, mention, described specimen holder was mentioned 60 seconds in the middle of a pair of filter disc, make it experience 0.69mN/m 2Pressure 5 seconds and wipe the water on the sample gently and the crimp percent HC of the sample of the crimp filament A of the water-wet for preparing f(%), satisfy following require (1):
(DC f-HC f)≥10(%) (1),
And it is characterized in that by from woven fabric or knitted fabric, getting the square sample of loose 30cm of a warp thread (or stringer) direction and the long 30cm of weft yarn (or line) direction, and to make it be 20 ℃ in temperature, the length L PD (mm) of the woven fabric of the drying of placing 24 hours under the environment of 65%RH and preparing or warp thread (or stringer) direction of knitted fabric sample and the length L FD (mm) of weft yarn (or line) direction, and by described woven fabric or knitted fabric sample were soaked 2 hours in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, from water, mention, described specimen holder was mentioned 60 seconds in the middle of a pair of filter disc, make its experience 0.69mN/m 2Pressure 5 seconds and wipe the water on the sample gently and the length L PH (mm) of warp thread (or stringer) direction of the woven fabric of the water-wet for preparing or knitted fabric sample and the length L FH (mm) of weft yarn (or line) direction, be used for following requirement (2) and (3):
RP(%)=((LPH-LPD)/LPD)×100 (2)
RF(%)=((LFH-LFD)/LFD)×100 (3)
To calculate yardstick rate of change RP, (%) and dimensional variation rate RF, (%), RP wherein, (%) described woven fabric of representative or knitted fabric warp thread, the length of (or stringer) direction when wetting, (LPH) and the length when dry, (LPD) difference between is with respect to the length when dry, (LPD) ratio, RF, (%) described woven fabric of representative or knitted fabric weft yarn, the length of (or line) direction when wetting, (LFH) and the length when dry, (LFD) difference between is with respect to the length when dry, (LFD) ratio
Its average RA satisfies following require (4):
RA(%)=(RP+RF)/2≤5% (4)
Voidage is low when with water-wet thus.
2. claim 1 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said crimp filament A is selected from water imbibition with from the curling conjugate fibre that has nothing in common with each other aspect the extensibility, by forming, and have curling that performance by they latent crimp performances forms with bonding mylar component and the polyamide component of mode side by side.
3. claim 2 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said mylar component is made up of the polyethylene terephthalate of modification, and described polyethylene terephthalate comprises based on the 5-sodium sulfo isophthalate of acid constituents content with the amount copolymerization of 2.0-4.5 mole %.
4. working as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate of claim 1,, wherein said crimp filament A is included in the twisted yarn that the twist is 0-300T/m.
5. working as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate of claim 1,, wherein said long filament B is formed by mylar.
6. claim 1 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said woven fabric or knitted fabric have and contain the woven or knitted structure of two-layer or more multi-layered multilayer, wherein said multilayer one deck at least woven or knitted structure contains the described crimp filament A that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer, and one deck at least of other layer contains the described long filament B that content is the heavy 30-100 weight % of whole layer.
7. claim 1 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said woven fabric or knitted fabric are the knitted fabric with tubular knitted structure, and the compound coil of described tubular knitted structure is formed by described crimp filament A and long filament B.
8. claim 1 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said woven fabric or knitted fabric are the woven fabric with machine-knitted structure, wherein in warp thread and the weft yarn any or both by containing the yarn made by described crimp filament A and forming by the doubling that the yarn that described long filament B makes is formed.
Claim 1 when with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, the yarn of making by described crimp filament A and alternately be arranged to every kind of yarn in one or two direction of warp thread and weft direction or in one or two direction of line and stringer direction wherein by the yarn that described long filament B makes.
10. claim 1 works as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, the yarn that to make by described crimp filament A and combine each other by the yarn that described long filament B makes and to form core-integumentary pattern complex yarn wherein, the core of described complex yarn is made up of described long filament B yarn, and skin zone is made up of described crimp filament A yarn.
11. claim 1 when with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, wherein said long filament B is selected from has 300% or the elastomer of bigger elongation at break.
12. claim 1 when with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate, the aeration little at least 20% of this woven fabric or the knitted fabric aeration when the usefulness water-wet when dry wherein.
13. working as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate of claim 1, it is the fabric that applies dyeing processing.
14. working as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate of claim 1, it is the fabric that applies suction processing.
15. working as with low woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the knitted fabric of water-wet space-time crack rate of claim 1, it is to apply the fabric of refusing water processing.
16. claim 1 to 15 in each when with the low woven fabric that contains crimp filament of water-wet space-time crack rate or the production method of knitted fabric, the method is characterized in that it comprises by the uncrimped fibers that is used to form crimp filament A and is used to form the fiber production precursor woven fabric of long filament B or the step of knitted fabric, wherein said uncrimped fibers reveals crimpiness through heat treatment table, and wherein said curling characteristic is for making that crimp percent reduces when with water-wet, though the wherein said fiber that is used to form long filament B contain be selected from through described heat treatment do not show crimpiness fiber and through described heat treatment table reveal crimpiness but the characteristic of curling wherein make in the not low in fact fiber of when with water-wet crimp percent at least a type and wherein precursor woven fabric or knitted fabric are contained the woven fabric of crimp filament A and long filament B or the step of knitted fabric through heat treatment formation.
17. the production of claim 16 contains the method for the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of crimp filament, the fiber that wherein is used to form described crimp filament A is selected from the non-crimping conjugate fibre of being made by mylar component and polyamide component, and the hygroscopicity of these two kinds of fibers is with different from extensibility and with textural association side by side.
18. the production of claim 16 contains the method for the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of crimp filament, wherein the mylar component in described uncrimped fibers comprises that intrinsic viscosity is the mylar of 0.30-0.43, and described polyamide component comprises that intrinsic viscosity is the polyamide of 1.0-1.4.
19. the production of claim 17 contains the method for the woven fabric or the knitted fabric of crimp filament, after wherein said uncrimped fibers is handled through curling in boiling water, has:
(1) in the environment of 20 ℃ of temperature, 65%RH, places the scope of dry crimp percent DC after 24 hours at 1.5-13%.
(2) after in the water of 20 ℃ of temperature, soaking 2 hours the scope of instant wetting crimp percent HC at 0.5-7.0%.
(3) poor (DC-HC) between described dry crimp percent DC and the wetting crimp percent HC is 0.5% or bigger.
20. comprise each voidage when wetting is low among the right 1-15 the woven fabric that contains crimp filament or the textile product of knitted fabric.
21. the textile product of claim 21, its be selected from the external application dress material, the motion with dress material and in use dress material.
CNA2005800357319A 2004-10-19 2005-10-17 Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and decreasing in porosity upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product CN101044274A (en)

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