CH717995A1 - Stone cut for piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking. - Google Patents

Abstract

Cut stone (1) for a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking (10) comprising: a yoke (3) intended to be located at least partially in a support that comprises said piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking ( 10); a crown (5) intended to be located at least partially outside of said support; a girdle (7) located between said crown (3) and said yoke (5); said cut stone (1) being of elongated shape comprising a section, in the plane (P) of said girdle (7), defined by a pair of side edges (9a, 9b) as well as a pair of end edges (11a , 11b) connecting said side edges (9a, 9b) to each other. According to the invention, at least one of said lateral edges (9a, 9b) is of concave or convex shape in said plane (P) of said girdle (7).

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to the field of jewelry and jewelry, including that of watchmaking. It relates, more particularly, to a cut stone having a particular shape.

State of the art

[0002] The "Daytona Rainbow" watches from Rolex as well as the "Nautilus 5719/10G" from Patek Philippe each have a series of cut stones, trapezoidal in shape, set around their crystal. In order to approximate the shape of the rim of the mirrors, many cut stones, small in size and almost square, are used, which gives a good effect of scintillation to all the stones but is limiting from an aesthetic point of view. . Moreover, the shape of the crystal of the “Nautilus” piece does not follow a perfectly regular curve, which seems to result from a compromise in order to better match the shape of all the stones which are individually trapezoidal. Of course, stones in the form of a conventional baguette are by no means suitable for following a curved shape in an acceptable manner.

The object of the invention is therefore to provide a cut stone in which the aforementioned defects are at least partially overcome.

Disclosure of invention

More specifically, the invention relates to a cut stone for a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking, as defined by claim 1. This cut stone comprises: a cylinder head intended to be located at least partially in a support that comprises said piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepiece; a crown intended to be visible, which can therefore for this purpose be capable of being located at least partially outside of said support; a girdle (considered as a synonym of “laminates” in the meaning of the invention) located between said crown and said cylinder head and therefore forming an interface between the cylinder head and the crown.

[0005] Said cut stone is elongated in shape and comprises a section, considered in the plane of said girdle, which is defined by a pair of side edges as well as by a pair of end edges linking said side edges together. other, the latter being defined as being the longest edges.

According to the invention, at least one of the lateral edges is of convex or concave shape, considered in said plane of said girdle, this shape being able to follow a smooth curve or being able to be faceted, consisting of straight sections (or even curves) meeting at one or more edges.

[0007] By these means, the cut stones can be set on a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking in a more or less curved shape on their exterior and/or on their interior, minimizing the number of setting stones, while maintaining good scintillation and visual appearance.

In one embodiment, one of the side edges is convex and the other is concave, these two edges preferably being of curved shape in the plane of said girdle and each having a predetermined corresponding radius. In other words, the cut stone is shaped like a curved rod in its plane.

[0009] In a particular variant, each of said rays can be defined with respect to a single common point of origin. In such a case, the side edges are coaxial and thus define a ring segment stone.

[0010] In one embodiment, the extensions of said end edges are parallel or intersect with said common point of origin or at a point different from said common point of origin, for example at a point which is opposite the edge convex side.

In one embodiment comprising a concave side edge and a convex side edge, the length of the concave side edge is greater than that of the convex side edge.

[0012] Preferably, the length-to-width ratio of said stone, considered in the plane of said girdle, is greater than two, preferably greater than three.

[0013] The invention also relates to a piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces comprising at least one cut stone, preferably a plurality of cut stones, as defined above.

[0014] In particular, it relates to a bezel for a timepiece comprising at least one cut stone, preferably a plurality of cut stones, as defined above

Brief description of the drawings

Other details of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows, given with reference to the appended drawings in which: Figures 1a is a side view towards a side edge of a cut stone according to one embodiment of the invention; Figure 1b is a plan view of the cut stone of Figure 1a; Figure 1c is an isometric view of the cut stone of Figure 1; Figure 2a is a side view towards a side edge of another embodiment of a cut stone according to the invention; Figure 2b is a plan view of the cut stone of Figure 2a; Figure 2c is a side view towards an end edge of the cut stone of Figure 2a; and FIG. 3 illustrates a timepiece whose bezel is set with cut stones according to the invention.

Embodiments of the Invention

Figures 1a to 1c illustrate one embodiment of a cut stone 1 according to the invention. This cut stone 1 comprises a cylinder head 3 intended to be located at least partially in a support provided in a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking (10, see FIG. 3), a crown 5 intended to be visible to the user, for example by being at least partially outside of said support, as well as a girdle 7, forming an interface between the yoke 3 and the crown, intended to be crimped by the support if the latter is of conventional shape. Other solutions for fixing the stone 1 in the support (such as gluing, welding, etc.) are known to those skilled in the art and should therefore not be described in detail.

[0017] Overall, the stone 1 is in the shape of a rod modified with respect to a conventional rod shape (that is to say rectilinear) in a plane P which contains the girdle 7 and which is parallel to the main surface of the crown 5. This section is defined by a pair of side edges 9a, 9b as well as two end edges 11a, 11b which link the two side edges 9a, 9b (which are the longest edges). The length L - width W ratio of the cut stone 1 is preferably greater than two, more preferably greater than three, considered in the plane P.

According to the invention, at least one, preferably each, of the side edges 9a, 9b is convex or concave, the at least one side edge 9a, 9b which is convex or concave being able to follow a smooth curve without discontinuities or alternatively can be faceted, formed of straight or curved sections connected by one or more more or less pointed edges. Typically, one of the side edges 9a, 9b is concave and the other is convex, but it is also possible that one of the side edges 9a, 9b is concave or convex and the other side edge 9a, 9b could be straight. In the illustrated embodiment, the side edges 9a, 9b follow coaxial circular arcs having a radius R1 and a radius R2 respectively and therefore define a concave side edge 9a as well as a convex side edge 9b. These rays have a unique and common point of origin O, such that the cut stone 1 follows a shape in section of a circular ring. However, it is also possible that the rays R1 and R2 may have different origins, which has the effect that the tangents to the side edges 9a, 9b are not mutually parallel if they are considered orthogonal to a given radius. In such a case, the rays R1 and R2 are typically aligned and intersect a midpoint on one of the side edges 9a, 9b, this midpoint being preferably halfway along said edge 9a, 9b. Additionally, the radii R1, R2 can be varied to create cut stone 1 shapes that follow sections of an oval ring, another more complicated curved shape, or even a faceted shape with straight or curved sections that join at one or more more or less pointed edges, as mentioned above.

The end edges 11a, 11b may or may not be mutually symmetrical, and may or may not be mutually parallel. In the variant illustrated, the concave side edge 9a (inner) is longer than the convex side edge 9b (outer), and the extensions of the two end edges 11a, 11b intersect at a point located on the outer side of the stone. 1, that is to say that the point of intersection is opposite the convex side edge 9b. However, this is not mandatory, and the intersection point can be anywhere, for example coinciding with the origin point O.

[0020] In terms of the shape of the cross section of the stone 1 of Figures 1a to 1c, this shape is of the so-called "baguette diamond" type, the yoke 3 of which has a trapezoidal section, the crown 5 has a double stacked trapezoid, while the girdle 7 has a rectangular shape. However, other forms known in the art are also possible.

To this end, Figures 2a to 2c illustrate another embodiment of a cut stone 1 according to the invention, the cross section of which is more of a so-called "emerald" shape, comprising a bevelled trapezoid crown 5 and a cylinder head comprising two trapezoidal sections as well as a pointed lower part with a triangular section. All of the other aspects of the cut stone 1 remain the same as those described in the context of FIGS. 1a to 1c and therefore need not be repeated here.

[0022]Of course, other cross-section shapes are also possible, such as corresponding to that of the so-called “radiant diamond” type or others.

[0023] The cut stones 1 described above are particularly suitable for integration into a piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces of circular, oval or similar shape, and make it possible to decorate a length and/or a width of its surface. visible with a reduced number of cut stones. For example, in the case of a timepiece 10 as illustrated in FIG. 3 in the non-limiting form of a wristwatch, its bezel 13 can be crimped over its entire upper surface, for example, by twelve (as illustrated ), six, four, three or even two cut stones 1, while retaining the improved scintillation effect that cut stones impart compared to, for example, sapphire, glass or the like plates. The bezel 13 may be integral with, or rotatably mounted on, the middle part 15 of the watch case, and may or may not carry a crystal 17 as generally known.

As regards the material of the cut stones 1, the latter can for example be made of diamond, corundum, sapphire, ruby, spinel or the like, whether natural or synthetic.

[0025] Although the invention has been previously described in connection with specific embodiments, other additional variants are also possible without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the claims.

Claims (12)

1. Cut stone (1) for piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking (10) comprising: – a cylinder head (3) intended to be located at least partially in a support that comprises said piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking (10); – a crown (5) intended to be visible; – a girdle (7) located between said crown (3) and said yoke (5); said cut stone (1) being of elongated shape comprising a section, in the plane (P) of said girdle (7), defined by a pair of side edges (9a, 9b) as well as a pair of end edges (11a , 11b) connecting said side edges (9a, 9b) to each other, characterized in that at least one of said lateral edges (9a, 9b) is of concave or convex shape in said plane (P) of said girdle (7). 2. Cut stone (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that one of said side edges (9a) is concave and the other of said side edges 9b is convex in said plane (P) of said girdle (7). 3. Cut stone (1) according to the preceding claim, wherein each of said side edges (9a, 9b) is of curved shape in said plane (P) of said girdle (7), each of said shapes having a radius (R1, R2) predefined correspondent. 4. Cut stone (1) according to the preceding claim, wherein each of said radii (R1, R2) is defined with respect to a single common point of origin (O). 5. Cut stone (1) according to the preceding claim, wherein the extensions of said end edges (11a, 11b) are parallel or intersect at a point different from said common point of origin (O). 6. Cut stone (1) according to the preceding claim, wherein the extensions of said end edges (11a, 11b) intersect at a point which is opposite the convex side edge (9b). 7. Cut stone (1) according to claim 4, wherein the extensions of said end edges (11a, 11b) intersect said common point of origin (O). 8. Cut stone (1) according to one of claims 2 to 7, the length of the concave side edge (9a) being greater than that of the convex side edge (9b). 9. Cut stone (1) according to one of the preceding claims, in which the length (L) - width (W) ratio of said stone, considered in the plane (P) of said girdle (7), is greater than two, preferably greater than three. 10. Piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces (10) comprising at least one cut stone (1), preferably a plurality of cut stones (1), according to one of the preceding claims. 11. Bezel (13) for a timepiece (10) comprising at least one cut stone (1), preferably a plurality of cut stones (1), according to one of claims 1 to 9. 12. Timepiece (10) comprising a bezel (13) according to the preceding claim.