EP0527111A1 - Item of jewellery - Google Patents

Item of jewellery Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0527111A1
EP0527111A1 EP92810593A EP92810593A EP0527111A1 EP 0527111 A1 EP0527111 A1 EP 0527111A1 EP 92810593 A EP92810593 A EP 92810593A EP 92810593 A EP92810593 A EP 92810593A EP 0527111 A1 EP0527111 A1 EP 0527111A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
piece
stone
jewelry according
support
stones
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EP92810593A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Ludwig Muller
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
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Publication of EP0527111A1 publication Critical patent/EP0527111A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the present invention is in the field of jewelry and more specifically relates to the mounting of gemstones.
  • This mounting method is suitable for large stones, most often mounted individually.
  • the visible metal parts create solutions of continuity of the surface.
  • the present invention aims to overcome these drawbacks and relates to a piece of jewelry comprising at least one stone set.
  • This piece of jewelry is characterized by a support comprising at least two opposite bearing surfaces capable of cooperating with corresponding grooves made in stone.
  • said support is constituted by a series of bars comprising means for fixing to the neighboring bar, fixing means which can allow the articulation of a bar with respect to the neighbor.
  • each bar is constituted by a rail having a central clearance open upwards and two lateral wings, each of which is provided in its upper part with said internal bearing and in its external part with means for fixing to the neighboring bar.
  • a closing end-piece is attached to the ends of the rail, so as to close the central clearance and hold the stones.
  • the invention also extends to a method of setting stone in a piece of jewelry, characterized in that two cuts are made in a stone and that it is introduced into a support having two opposite bearing surfaces intended to cooperate with said cuts. It is obvious that one can slide several stones in the same support, which is closed at its ends by end caps. In addition, several supports can be articulated relative to the neighbor.
  • FIG. 1 there is shown a top view of a bracelet, for example, having rows 1, 2, 3, etc., of three stones 4 having a width a and a length b.
  • each stone 4 is shown diagrammatically by a table 41 and by a bevel 42 making the connection between the table 41 and a laminate or rondiste 43 of generally rectangular shape. Note that no metal support is visible in this top view since the laminates of the adjacent faces of the stones touch as will be seen in more detail below.
  • Each of the bars 11 to 13 has a central clearance 14 open upwards, having a general shape of V.
  • This clearance 14 is closed by two lateral wings 15 having in their upper part a bearing 16 directed inwards.
  • the wings 15 are externally provided with series of ears 17 and recesses 18 of corresponding shape intended to be nested before receiving a common axis 5.
  • the common axis 5 makes it possible on the one hand to unite two adjacent bars side by side and on the other hand it ensures the relative bending of these.
  • a closure plate 6 intended to hold the stones 4 in place will be provided, as will be seen below.
  • one of the bars 11 to 13 is shown in cross-section, as well as a stone 4 seen in the end.
  • a stone 4 seen in the end.
  • the stone 4 there are its table 41 as well as two bevelled facets 42 making it possible to reach the external dimensions of the laminate 43.
  • the cylinder head 44 of the stone has, traditionally, facets cut with angles intended to reflect the light rays.
  • two parallel cuts 46 will be made, dimensioned so as to allow be holding the stone 4 once it has been slipped from the end of a bar 11.
  • grooves 46 are cut so as to match the shape of the internal bearing surfaces 16 of the bars.
  • Figure 3 a groove formed by two flat surfaces arranged in a V, while the variant of Figure 4 has rounded shapes, these two variants being given only by way of example, but are in no way limiting .
  • one or more stones are slipped into one or more bars, so that the laminates of neighboring stones are almost contiguous.
  • a second closing element 6 is then fixed, by any means known to those skilled in the art, at the front of the bars.
  • the bars forming the support are not visible, and the stones shine with all their brilliance, whether they are synthetic stones, semi-precious stones or precious stones.
  • the drawing shows a stone of generally rectangular shape.
  • the invention is not however limited to square stones or rods.
  • the assembly described above also makes it possible to crimp invisibly stones of the shuttle, pear or other shape.

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Abstract

This item of jewellery comprises stones which are mounted without their support being visible, it being possible for these stones also to form a curved surface, and it being possible for them to be articulated with respect to one another. Small bars (11, 12, 13) comprise two opposite bearing surfaces (16) intended to interact with corresponding grooves (46) made in the culet (collet) (44) of the stone (4). <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention est du domaine de la bijouterie et concerne plus précisément le montage de pierres serties.The present invention is in the field of jewelry and more specifically relates to the mounting of gemstones.

Depuis de nombreuses années, les pierres précieuses ou non-précieuses sont montées par sertissage ou entre des griffes d'un support le plus souvent métallique. Le cadre constituant la bordure de la serte de même que les griffes du support restent toujours apparents lorsque l'on regarde le bijou de dessus.For many years, precious or non-precious stones have been mounted by crimping or between claws of a support, most often metallic. The frame constituting the border of the hoop as well as the claws of the support always remain apparent when looking at the piece of jewelry from above.

Ce mode de montage convient pour les pierres de grande taille, montées le plus souvent à l'unité. Par contre lorsque l'on veut obtenir une surface relativement importante en juxtaposant des pierres plus petites, les parties métalliques visibles créent des solutions de continuité de la surface. En outre, il est difficile d'obtenir une surface non plane.This mounting method is suitable for large stones, most often mounted individually. On the other hand when one wants to obtain a relatively large surface by juxtaposing smaller stones, the visible metal parts create solutions of continuity of the surface. In addition, it is difficult to obtain a non-planar surface.

La présente invention vise à pallier ces inconvénients et a pour objet une pièce de joaillerie comprenant au moins une pierre sertie.The present invention aims to overcome these drawbacks and relates to a piece of jewelry comprising at least one stone set.

Cette pièce de joaillerie est caractérisée par un support comportant au moins deux portées opposées aptes à coopérer avec des gorges correspondantes pratiquées dans la pierre.This piece of jewelry is characterized by a support comprising at least two opposite bearing surfaces capable of cooperating with corresponding grooves made in stone.

Dans une variante préférentielle, ledit support est constitué par une série de barrettes comportant des moyens de fixation à la barrette voisine, moyens de fixation qui peuvent autoriser l'articulation d'une barrette par rapport à la voisine.In a preferred variant, said support is constituted by a series of bars comprising means for fixing to the neighboring bar, fixing means which can allow the articulation of a bar with respect to the neighbor.

De préférence, chaque barrette est constituée par un rail présentant un dégagement central ouvert vers le haut et deux ailes latérales dont chacune est munie dans sa partie supérieure de ladite portée interne et dans sa partie extérieure des moyens de fixation à la barrette voisine. Un embout de fermeture est fixé aux extrémités du rail, de manière à fermer le dégagement central et à maintenir les pierres.Preferably, each bar is constituted by a rail having a central clearance open upwards and two lateral wings, each of which is provided in its upper part with said internal bearing and in its external part with means for fixing to the neighboring bar. A closing end-piece is attached to the ends of the rail, so as to close the central clearance and hold the stones.

L'invention s'étend également à un procédé de sertissage de pierre dans une pièce de joaillerie, caractérisé en ce que l'on réalise deux entailles dans une pierre et que l'on introduit celle-ci dans un support comportant deux portées opposées destinées à coopérer avec lesdites entailles. Il est évident que l'on peut glisser plusieurs pierres dans un même support, que l'on ferme à ses extrémité par des embouts de fermeture. En outre plusieurs supports peuvent être articulés par rapport au voisin.The invention also extends to a method of setting stone in a piece of jewelry, characterized in that two cuts are made in a stone and that it is introduced into a support having two opposite bearing surfaces intended to cooperate with said cuts. It is obvious that one can slide several stones in the same support, which is closed at its ends by end caps. In addition, several supports can be articulated relative to the neighbor.

Le dessin annexé représente, à titre d'exemple non limitatif, des formes d'exécution de l'objet de la présente invention.

  • La figure 1 est une vue de dessus d'un assemblage de pierres selon l'invention.
  • La figure 2 est une vue partielle en perspective d'un montage selon l'invention dans lequel sont glissées des pierres.
  • La figure 3 est une coupe transversale à une échelle agrandie de l'une des barrettes de la figure 2.
  • La figure 4 est une représentation partielle d'une variante de fixation d'une pierre sur une barrette, vue en coupe transversale.
The appended drawing represents, by way of nonlimiting example, embodiments of the subject of the present invention.
  • Figure 1 is a top view of an assembly of stones according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 is a partial perspective view of an assembly according to the invention in which stones are slid.
  • FIG. 3 is a cross section on an enlarged scale of one of the bars of FIG. 2.
  • Figure 4 is a partial representation of a variant of fixing a stone on a bar, seen in cross section.

A la figure 1 on a représenté une vue de dessus d'un bracelet, par exemple, comportant des rangées 1, 2, 3, etc., de trois pierres 4 ayant une largeur a et une longueur b. A la figure 1, chaque pierre 4 est schématisée par une table 41 et par un biseau 42 faisant la liaison entre la table 41 et un feuilletis ou rondiste 43 de forme générale rectangulaire. On notera qu'aucun support métallique n'est visible dans cette vue de dessus puisque les feuilletis des faces adjacentes des pierres se touchent comme on le verra plus en détail plus loin.In Figure 1 there is shown a top view of a bracelet, for example, having rows 1, 2, 3, etc., of three stones 4 having a width a and a length b. In FIG. 1, each stone 4 is shown diagrammatically by a table 41 and by a bevel 42 making the connection between the table 41 and a laminate or rondiste 43 of generally rectangular shape. Note that no metal support is visible in this top view since the laminates of the adjacent faces of the stones touch as will be seen in more detail below.

Dans la vue en perspective de la figure 2, on a représenté des barrettes 11 à 13 correspondant aux rangées 1 à 3 de la figure précédente, chacune de ces barrettes étant dimensionnée pour recevoir deux pierres 4 dans sa longueur dans l'exemple représenté.In the perspective view of Figure 2, there are shown bars 11 to 13 corresponding to rows 1 to 3 of the previous figure, each of these bars being dimensioned to receive two stones 4 in its length in the example shown.

Chacune des barrette 11 à 13 comporte un dégagement central 14 ouvert vers le haut, ayant une forme générale de V. Ce dégagement 14 est fermé par deux ailes latérales 15 présentant dans leur partie supérieure une portée 16 dirigée vers l'intérieur. Pour assurer l'articulation de l'une des barrettes 11 à 13 par rapport aux voisines, on a muni extérieurement les ailes 15 de séries d'oreilles 17 et de creusures 18 de forme correspondante destinées à s'imbriquer avant de recevoir un axe commun 5. L'axe commun 5 permet d'une part d'unir côte à côte deux barrettes adjacentes et d'autre part il assure la flexion relative de celles-ci.Each of the bars 11 to 13 has a central clearance 14 open upwards, having a general shape of V. This clearance 14 is closed by two lateral wings 15 having in their upper part a bearing 16 directed inwards. To ensure the articulation of one of the bars 11 to 13 with respect to the neighbors, the wings 15 are externally provided with series of ears 17 and recesses 18 of corresponding shape intended to be nested before receiving a common axis 5. The common axis 5 makes it possible on the one hand to unite two adjacent bars side by side and on the other hand it ensures the relative bending of these.

Les barrettes représentées au dessin sont rectilignes, mais on peut prévoir, sans sortir du cadre de la présente invention, de leur donner une certaine courbure.The bars shown in the drawing are rectilinear, but it is possible, without departing from the scope of the present invention, to give them a certain curvature.

Aux deux extrémités du dégagement 14, on prévoira une plaquette de fermeture 6 destinée à maintenir les pierres 4 en place, comme on le verra plus loin.At the two ends of the clearance 14, a closure plate 6 intended to hold the stones 4 in place will be provided, as will be seen below.

Dans le détail de la figure 3 on a représenté l'une des barrettes 11 à 13 vue en coupe, ainsi qu'une pierre 4 vue en bout. On retrouve d'un côté une oreille 17 et de l'autre la creusure 18 correspondante, ainsi que les deux portées opposées 16 bordant le dégagement 14.In the detail of FIG. 3, one of the bars 11 to 13 is shown in cross-section, as well as a stone 4 seen in the end. We find on one side an ear 17 and on the other the corresponding recess 18, as well as the two opposite bearing surfaces 16 bordering the clearance 14.

Quant à la pierre 4, on retrouve sa table 41 ainsi que deux facettes biseautées 42 permettant d'atteindre les dimensions extérieures du feuilletis 43. La culasse 44 de la pierre présente, de manière traditionnelle, des facettes taillées avec des angles destinés à réfléchir les rayons lumineux. Dans deux des facettes 45 situées parallèlement au-dessous du feuilletis 43, on réalisera deux entailles 46 parallèles, dimensionnées de manière à permettre le maintien de la pierre 4 une fois que celle-ci a été glissée depuis l'extrémité d'une barrette 11.As for the stone 4, there are its table 41 as well as two bevelled facets 42 making it possible to reach the external dimensions of the laminate 43. The cylinder head 44 of the stone has, traditionally, facets cut with angles intended to reflect the light rays. In two of the facets 45 situated parallel below the laminate 43, two parallel cuts 46 will be made, dimensioned so as to allow be holding the stone 4 once it has been slipped from the end of a bar 11.

Il est évident que les gorges 46 sont taillées de manière à épouser la forme des portées internes 16 des barrettes. On a représenté à la figure 3 une gorge constituée par deux surfaces planes disposées en V, alors que la variante de la figure 4 comporte des formes arrondies, ces deux variantes étant données uniquement à titre d'exemple, mais ne sont en aucun cas limitatives.It is obvious that the grooves 46 are cut so as to match the shape of the internal bearing surfaces 16 of the bars. There is shown in Figure 3 a groove formed by two flat surfaces arranged in a V, while the variant of Figure 4 has rounded shapes, these two variants being given only by way of example, but are in no way limiting .

Lors de la réalisation des gorges 46, on veillera à ce que l'écart E minimum entre le fond des gorges réalisées de part et d'autre de la pierre reste supérieur à la dimension T de la table 41, pour éviter que les gorges ne soient visibles.When making the grooves 46, it will be ensured that the minimum difference E between the bottom of the grooves made on either side of the stone remains greater than the dimension T of the table 41, to prevent the grooves from are visible.

Lors de l'assemblage de pierres selon l'invention, on glisse une ou plusieurs pierres dans une ou plusieurs barrettes, de manière à ce que les feuilletis de pierres voisines soient quasi jointifs. En se référant à la figure 2, on fixe alors, par tout moyen connu de l'homme de métier, un second élément de fermeture 6 à l'avant des barrettes.During the assembly of stones according to the invention, one or more stones are slipped into one or more bars, so that the laminates of neighboring stones are almost contiguous. Referring to FIG. 2, a second closing element 6 is then fixed, by any means known to those skilled in the art, at the front of the bars.

Grâce à ce type de montage, les barrettes formant le support ne sont pas visibles, et les pierres brillent de tout leur éclat, qu'il s'agisse de pierres synthétiques, de pierres fines ou de pierres précieuses.Thanks to this type of mounting, the bars forming the support are not visible, and the stones shine with all their brilliance, whether they are synthetic stones, semi-precious stones or precious stones.

On a représenté au dessin une pierre de forme générale rectangulaire. L'invention n'est pourtant pas limitée aux pierres carrées ou aux baguettes. Le montage décrit précédemment permet également de sertir de manière invisible des pierres de forme navette, poire ou autre.The drawing shows a stone of generally rectangular shape. The invention is not however limited to square stones or rods. The assembly described above also makes it possible to crimp invisibly stones of the shuttle, pear or other shape.

En variante, on peut prévoir une fixation amovible en bout de la barrette, permettant de changer la disposition de pierres de différentes couleurs.As a variant, it is possible to provide a removable fixing at the end of the bar, making it possible to change the arrangement of stones of different colors.

Claims (10)

1. Pièce de joaillerie comprenant au moins une pierre sertie, caractérisée par un support (11,12,13) comportant au moins deux portées opposées (16) aptes à coopérer avec des gorges correspondantes (46) pratiquées dans la pierre (4).1. Piece of jewelry comprising at least one set stone, characterized by a support (11,12,13) comprising at least two opposite bearing surfaces (16) capable of cooperating with corresponding grooves (46) formed in the stone (4). 2. Pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les deux portées opposées (16) ainsi que les gorges (46) sont parallèles.2. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterized in that the two opposite bearing surfaces (16) and the grooves (46) are parallel. 3. Pièce de jaoillerie selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que les gorges sont situées dans la culasse (44).3. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the grooves are located in the cylinder head (44). 4. Pièce de jaoillerie selon la revendication 1 ou 3, caractérisée en ce que l'écart minimum "E" entre le fond des gorges opposées (46) est supérieur à la largeur "T" de la table (41) formant le dessus de la pierre.4. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that the minimum distance "E" between the bottom of the opposite grooves (46) is greater than the width "T" of the table (41) forming the top of stone. 5. Pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le support (11,12,13) est constitué par une série de barrettes comportant des moyens de fixation à la barrette voisine.5. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterized in that the support (11,12,13) is constituted by a series of bars comprising means for fixing to the neighboring bar. 6. Pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que le support comporte des moyens de fixation aptes à assurer l'articulation d'une barrette par rapport à la voisine.6. Piece of jewelry according to claim 5, characterized in that the support comprises fixing means capable of ensuring the articulation of a bar relative to the neighbor. 7. Pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 5 ou 6, caractérisée en ce que chaque barrette est constituée par un rail (11,12,13) présentant un dégagement central (14) ouvert vers le haut et deux ailes latérales (15) dont chacune est munie dans sa partie supérieure de ladite portée interne (16) et dans sa partie extérieure des moyens de fixation (17,18) à la barrette voisine.7. Piece of jewelry according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that each bar is constituted by a rail (11,12,13) having a central clearance (14) open upwards and two lateral wings (15) each of which is provided in its upper part with said internal bearing (16) and in its external part with fixing means (17,18) to the neighboring bar. 8. Pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce qu'un embout de fermeture (6) est fixé aux extrémités du rail, de manière à fermer le dégagement central.8. Piece of jewelry according to claim 7, characterized in that a closing end piece (6) is fixed to the ends of the rail, so as to close the central clearance. 9. Procédé de sertissage de pierre dans une pièce de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'on réalise deux entailles (46) dans une pierre et que l'on introduit celle-ci dans un support comportant deux portées opposées (16) destinées à coopérer avec lesdites entailles (46).9. A method of setting stone in a piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterized in that two notches (46) are made in a stone and that the latter is introduced into a support comprising two opposite bearing surfaces ( 16) intended to cooperate with said notches (46). 10. Procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que l'on glisse plusieurs pierres dans un même support, que l'on ferme à ses extrémité par des embouts de fermeture.10. A crimping method according to claim 9, characterized in that several stones are slid into the same support, which is closed at its ends by end caps.
EP92810593A 1991-08-06 1992-08-04 Item of jewellery Withdrawn EP0527111A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH2324/91A CH684990A5 (en) 1991-08-06 1991-08-06 piece of jewelry.
CH2324/91 1991-08-06

Publications (1)

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EP0527111A1 true EP0527111A1 (en) 1993-02-10

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EP92810593A Withdrawn EP0527111A1 (en) 1991-08-06 1992-08-04 Item of jewellery

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US (1) US5419159A (en)
EP (1) EP0527111A1 (en)
JP (1) JPH05184418A (en)
CH (1) CH684990A5 (en)

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US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
ES2122885A1 (en) * 1995-10-02 1998-12-16 Druguet S A Novel system for the invisible setting (mounting) of stones in fine jewellery
FR3001366A1 (en) * 2013-01-30 2014-08-01 Atelier Vendome L DECORATIVE ELEMENT COMPRISING SEVERAL STONES ASSEMBLED IN A CLOSED FRAMEWORK, COMPRISING TWO DECORATIVE FACES
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US7269973B2 (en) * 2005-04-29 2007-09-18 Daniel Koren Eternity band with U-shaped seats for gemstones
US20060272356A1 (en) * 2005-06-01 2006-12-07 Lemasters Patrick A Suspension setting for gemstones
US20080016912A1 (en) * 2006-05-24 2008-01-24 Rafael Gutierrez Gemstone Setting Arrangement and Method for Setting a Gemstone
US8096146B1 (en) * 2008-03-13 2012-01-17 Jewelex New York, Ltd. Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting
US20100000507A1 (en) * 2008-05-09 2010-01-07 Apollo Diamond Gemstone Corporation Angle cut on cvd diamond
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US8359883B2 (en) * 2009-11-13 2013-01-29 Hasmukh Dholakiya Gemstone setting
US20120024009A1 (en) * 2010-07-29 2012-02-02 Nirav Modi Multi-faceted gemstone for multi-stone jewelry item
US9314070B2 (en) 2011-05-02 2016-04-19 Yegise Koc Adjustable jewelry
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Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US5419160A (en) * 1993-11-19 1995-05-30 Fildan; Gerhard Jeweled garment link and method of making same
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
ES2122885A1 (en) * 1995-10-02 1998-12-16 Druguet S A Novel system for the invisible setting (mounting) of stones in fine jewellery
FR3001366A1 (en) * 2013-01-30 2014-08-01 Atelier Vendome L DECORATIVE ELEMENT COMPRISING SEVERAL STONES ASSEMBLED IN A CLOSED FRAMEWORK, COMPRISING TWO DECORATIVE FACES
WO2014118646A3 (en) * 2013-01-30 2014-11-27 Van Cleef & Arpels SA Decorative element comprising a number of stones which are assembled within a closed frame, comprising two decorative faces
US9676228B2 (en) 2013-01-30 2017-06-13 Van Cleef & Arpels SA Decorative element comprising a number of stones which are assembled within a closed frame, comprising two decorative faces
WO2018167599A1 (en) * 2017-03-16 2018-09-20 Patek Philippe Sa Geneve Timepiece component
US11906931B2 (en) 2017-03-16 2024-02-20 Patek Philippe Sa Geneve Timepiece component
IT201900024766A1 (en) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-19 Desire S R L Jewelery and assembly process of baguette-cut stones for the realization of the same

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CH684990A5 (en) 1995-02-28
US5419159A (en) 1995-05-30

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