CH711092B1 - Dermocosmetic bio-revitalizing kit for external use with fast entry using the associated precision applicator. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dermocosmetic biorevitalizing kit with two components for external use and rapid entry, wherein the first component comprises a gel containing a mixture of water-soluble amino acids, water-soluble vitamins and optionally one or more oligoelements and / or nucleic acids or polynucleotides of the DNA or RNA, and the second component comprises an oil / water or water / oil emulsion comprising a mixture of lipophilic amino acids and one or more fat soluble vitamins.

Description

The present invention relates to a dermocosmetic biorevitalizing kit for external use with rapid entry according to claim 1.

In particular, the present invention relates to a kit which comprises a gel and a topically applicable dermocosmetic emulsion for biorevitalization of the skin, for regenerating the cells of the epidermis and for stimulating the physiological functionality of the skin.

Typically, the two components of the kit can be applied in the form of a gel or an emulsion by means of an applicator / dosing device, which is equipped with a blunt-ended cannula and allows the amount of product absorbed to be measured and this with precision to the to release treating skin areas.

The dermocosmetic kit of the present invention is indicated for the treatment of wrinkles, skin pits, and general signs of aging on human facial or body skin.

[0005] The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment according to claim 12.

Field of invention

The present invention originates from the field of dermocosmetic preparations, in particular the field of dermocosmetic preparations for application to the epidermis of the facial skin or the body skin.

State of the art

The progressive increase in the median life expectancy of the population, particularly that of most industrialized nations, has resulted in a growing proportion of the population using topical antiaging products as well as medical and aesthetic surgical techniques in order to maintain a youthful appearance To lengthen skin in time.

The techniques of aesthetic medicine and the latest aesthetic treatments, which are intended to correct the damage caused by external influences on the skin and to slow down the natural process of skin aging, have enjoyed growing success in recent years because they are less drastic and invasive measures than the interventions of conventional plastic surgery are based.

Aesthetic medicine techniques have continued to evolve, moving from the initial injections of collagen or botulinum toxin to newer methods in which fillers are injected subcutaneously to replenish the volume and remodel the contour of the face.

The more modern techniques of aesthetic medicine also include the subcutaneous injection of biorevitalizing substances, which help the skin to restore and maintain the elasticity of the tissues by reorganizing the skin structure.

In aesthetic medicine, the bio-revitalizing treatments involve the infiltration of hydrating substances into the skin, which are necessary to regain tension, luminosity and compactness of the skin.

The most common biorevitalizing techniques are based on the introduction of substances into the dermis, which are useful for optimizing skin function, improving hydration, elasticity, luminosity, firmness of the skin and preventing or reducing wrinkles by taking measures against free radicals .

The biorevitalization can be performed on the face, on the neck, in the area of the "chain of Venus", on the décolleté including the region between the breasts, on the back of the hands and the arms. The biorevitalizing techniques are used for young, vital and elastic skin to slow down and prevent the physiological aging process and for mature skin to counteract and reduce the signs of time and to restore the functionality of the skin.

The injection techniques can vary depending on the effect to be achieved, but the infiltration is typically carried out in the area of the dermoepidermal junction and in the superficial or middle dermis.

Given the situation there is a need for a dermocosmetic treatment which causes the penetration of selected substances with a biorevitalizing effect into the skin without resorting to the use of transcutaneous and epidermal injections.

Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to provide selected biorevitalizing molecules which penetrate the skin rapidly in order to bring about a rejuvenating effect on the skin of the person being treated and a slowing down of the skin aging process.

The terms "revitalization" or "revitalizing" relate in the present context to treatments that help the skin to restore and maintain the elasticity of the tissue and, accordingly, to regain tension, luminosity and compactness as well as to optimize skin function, contribute to improving hydration, skin firmness and preventing or reducing wrinkles.

Summary of the invention

Through its activity in the field of cosmetic biorevitalization, the applicant has found a kit and a dermocosmetic method that is suitable for allowing selected biorevitalizing components to penetrate the skin without injection.

In particular, the applicant has developed a dermocosmetic kit which is suitable for allowing selected biorevitalizing substances to penetrate the epidermis, taking into account the different penetration capacities of the molecules depending on their molecular weight.

According to a general aspect, the invention relates to a dermocosmetic biorevitalizing kit with two components for external use and with rapid entry, the first component comprising a gel which is a mixture of water-soluble amino acids, water-soluble vitamins and optionally one or more oligoelements and / or comprises nucleic acids or polynucleotides of DNA or RNA, and the second component comprises an oil / water or water / oil emulsion which comprises a mixture of lipophilic amino acids and one or more fat-soluble vitamins.

According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a dermocosmetic bio-revitalizing kit which comprises: a composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel, which is a mixture of water-soluble amino acids from alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, valine, nucleic acids, and a group of vitamins B and vitamin C. (Ascorbic acid) selected water-soluble vitamin and mixtures thereof; a composition in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion, which taurine and a mixture of lipophilic amino acids from acetylcysteine or cysteine, glutamic acid, lysine, leucine, methionine, glutamine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and one from vitamin A (retinyl palmitate ) and vitamin E (tocopherol) selected fat-soluble vitamin and mixtures thereof.

Typically, the two components of the kit can be applied in the form of a gel or an emulsion by means of an applicator / dosing device according to the Swiss patent CH 695 412, which is equipped with a blunt-ended cannula and allows the amount of product absorbed to be measured and to release them with precision on the skin areas to be treated.

According to some embodiments, the composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel further comprises an oligo element, which is preferably selected from calcium, iron, manganese, magnesium, copper, zinc and their mixtures and their salts.

According to one embodiment, a mixture of hyaluronic acids is present in the composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel of the kit according to the invention, which are selected from the group comprising: a) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with a molecular weight of 800 to 1200 Dalton, b) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, having a molecular weight of 4000 to 6000 Daltons, c) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, having a molecular weight of 20,000 to 70,000 Daltons, d) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, having a molecular weight of 150,000 to 250,000 Daltons, e) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, having a molecular weight of 1,800,000 to 2,200,000 Daltons, f) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, crosslinked with a polymer .

In certain embodiments of the present invention, the applicant has found that by combining a mixture of hyaluronic acid with six different molecular weights with the amino acids present in the gel formulation, the resulting composition effectively and quickly penetrates the epidermis or skin when applied topically and reaches the deeper layers of the skin where it has a synergistic effect with a filling effect in the treated area, smoothing the wrinkles and, associated with this, a bio-revitalizing effect.

The term biorevitalization refers to the activation of the fibroblasts of the dermis and the keratinocytes of the epidermis by the delivery of biological precursors which initiate the formation of cutaneous components. When the two components of the kit according to the invention are applied to the skin, substances which stimulate the cells of the skin tissue to produce structural elements such as collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans that are essential for renewal of the skin and slowing down the physiological process of skin senescence penetrate into the skin inner layers of the epidermis.

According to some aspects of the present invention, the dermocosmetic kit according to the invention exerts a bio-revitalizing effect on the skin by allowing active substances to penetrate, which the epidermis is no longer able to produce in physiological quantities.

In particular, the present in the inventive kit in the gel component amino acids glycine and proline and the present in the form of an emulsion component amino acids lysine and leucine exert a structural effect and stimulate the fibroblasts and protein formation by a Cause synergistic bio-revitalizing and textural effect, which is particularly preferred from an aesthetic point of view.

As described below, this effect is brought about synergistically by the presence of hyaluronic acids with a selected average molecular weight (MW).

It was also observed that in the kit according to the invention the additional presence of nucleic acids stimulates cell repair and activates cell communication, the presence of vitamins stimulates the metabolism of the epidermis and some vital functions of the skin and the presence of oligoelements activates the ionic balance of the skin favored.

The delivery of the active components of the kit according to the invention into the epidermis stimulates the skin's biological metabolism and restructuring.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for the dermocosmetic treatment of the epidermis, comprising the sequential or separate application to the skin of an individual of: a composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel, comprising a mixture of water-soluble amino acids comprising alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, valine, nucleic acids, optionally a water-soluble vitamin selected from group B vitamins , Vitamin C and their mixtures; a composition in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion, which taurine and a mixture of lipophilic amino acids from cysteine or acetylcysteine, glutamic acid, lysine, leucine, methionine, glutamine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and optionally a vitamin A and vitamin E comprises selected fat-soluble vitamins and mixtures thereof.

The application of the present in the form of hydrogel and emulsion components of the kit according to the invention on the skin lead to the biorevitalization of the cells of the epidermis and an activation of the fibroblast population with increased collagen storage, resulting in a smoothing of the skin tissue.

The treated with the two components of the inventive dermocosmetic kit fibroblasts react by forming collagen and repairing the brittle and worn skin, whereby the tension and elasticity of the skin is ensured. By restructuring the extracellular matrix, the biorevitalization after the application of the two components of the kit also improves the compactness of the skin.

Detailed description of the invention

The applicant has found that, as the skin ages, there is a drastic decrease in the amount of amino acids available to the fibroblasts for collagen formation. This fact is of particular importance because about 22% of the skin content is made up by proteins and, moreover, about one eighth of the total protein content of the organism is made up by the skin proteins.

In addition, the control of the hydration of the skin is due to the NMF ("Natural Moisturizing Factor", factor of natural hydration), which is a series of water-soluble substances found in the outermost layer of the skin available. The NMF is made up of 40% amino acids. The NMF plays an important role because it helps to maintain the moisture in the skin and promotes cellular renewal.

Accordingly, the applicant has found that the processes of skin hydration are activated and cellular renewal regularized by suitable supply of selected amino acids in the deeper skin layers, whereby a dermocosmetic or aesthetic effect is achieved that is particularly recognizable on the face.

The topically applicable dermocosmetic kit according to the invention typically comprises two components or dermocosmetic compositions, one of which is in the form of a hydrogel and the other in the form of an emulsion. In the formulations of the two components or compositions, amino acids are present which have a low molecular weight, advantageously in the range of 75 to 210 Daltons. This property is useful to obtain increased skin penetration of the two compositions. It has been observed that the higher the amount of amino acids available in the skin region, the greater the vitality of the cells and the greater the number of fibroblasts.

A first component or composition of the kit is in the form of a gel, which is a mixture of water-soluble amino acids comprising alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, valine, and optionally nucleic acids, water-soluble vitamins of group B, vitamin C, one or more oligoelements typically in application% in the range of 0.0001 to 30%.

According to some embodiments, the composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel comprises a mixture of water-soluble amino acids comprising alanine (MW 89.09 daltons), arginine (MW 132.12 daltons), aspartic acid (MW 133.10 daltons), glycine ( MW 75.07 daltons), histidine (MW 155.16 daltons), isoleucine (MW 131.17 daltons), phenylalanine (MW 165.19 daltons), proline (MW 115.13 daltons), serine (MW 105.09 daltons ), Threonine (MW 119.12 daltons), valine (MW 117.15 daltons), nucleic acids from 200 to 1000 daltons, one of vitamins of group B with a MW in the range from 95 to 1500 daltons and vitamin C (ascorbic acid) ( MW 322.05 Dalton) selected water-soluble vitamin and their mixtures.

A second component or composition of the kit according to the invention is in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion in which taurine and a mixture of lipophilic or slightly water-soluble amino acids comprising cysteine, glutamic acid, lysine, leucine, methionine, Glutamine, tryptophan, tyrosine and optionally one or more fat-soluble vitamins selected from vitamin A and vitamin E and their mixtures, typically in application% in the range from 0.0001 to 30% and typically also an oligo element, are dispersed.

The composition preferably comprises in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion taurine (MW 132.12 daltons) and a mixture of lipophilic amino acids comprising acetylcysteine or cysteine (MW 163.19 daltons), glutamic acid (MW 147, 13 daltons), lysine (MW 146.19 daltons), leucine (MW 131.17 daltons), methionine (MW 149.21 daltons), glutamine (MW 146.15 daltons), tryptophan (MW 204.23 daltons), tyrosine (MW 181.19 daltons), valine and a fat-soluble vitamin selected from vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) (MW 524.86 daltons) and vitamin E (tocopherol) (MW 472.76 daltons) and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, vitamin F may be present.

According to one embodiment, in the first component or composition in the form of a gel / hydrogel of the kit according to the invention, a mixture of hyaluronic acids can also be present, which are selected from the group comprising: a) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof with an average Molecular weight of 800 to 1200 Daltons, b) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof with an average molecular weight of 4000 to 6000 Daltons, c) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof with an average molecular weight of 20,000 to 70,000 Daltons, d) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof with an average molecular weight of 150,000 to 250,000 Daltons, e) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof with an average molecular weight of 1,800,000 to 2,200,000 Daltons, f) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, crosslinked with a polymer.

It has been observed that by adding the six types of hyaluronic acid described above with selected, progressively increasing molecular weights to one of the two components of the kit according to the invention, an effective filler can be obtained which has the biorevitalizing effect exerted by the amino acid component of the kit added.

According to some embodiments, the component in the gel of the kit according to the invention contains, in addition to the six mentioned hyaluronic acids, a hyaluronic acid with a very low molecular weight, which is selected from g) hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of 300 to 500 Dalton, h) hyaluronic acid with an average Molecular weight from 700 to 900 Daltons and mixtures thereof. This embodiment is mainly used for the treatment and filling of deep wrinkles.

In the aqueous phase of the emulsion, which represents the second component or composition of the kit according to the invention, one or more of the above-described hyaluronic acids a) -g) and h) can be present.

It has been observed that by adding the above-described mixture of hyaluronic acids with six different molecular weights to the two components of the kit, the composition obtained in this way effectively and quickly penetrates the epidermis and thereby reaches the deeper skin layers, where it has a filling effect and thereby a modeling in the treated area and a smoothing of the wrinkles. The filling of the skin areas smooths the unevenness or wrinkles of the skin and / or causes a filling effect that leads to an increase in volume of the treated skin areas, for example in the area of the cheekbones or the lips. This filling effect in combination with the bio-revitalizing effect due to the presence of amino acid components results in a cosmetic or synergistic aesthetic effect.

Typically, the molecular weights of the hyaluronic acids or salts thereof described in the present invention are expressed in terms of weight average molecular weight (MW) (Da).

The average molecular weight of the hyaluronic acids mentioned in the application can be determined using standard methods known in the art, such as those described in Ueno et al., 1988, Chem Pharm Bull. 36, 4971-4975; Wyatt 1993, Anal Chim Acta 272: 1-40; Watt Technologies 1999 "Light scattering University Dawn Course Manual and" Dawn Eos Manual "Wyatt Technology Corp. Santa Barbara CA (USA).

Component f) of the hyaluronic acid mixture is crosslinked hyaluronic acid in free form or as a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. In certain embodiments, component f) is a polymer crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, i. a sodium salt of polymer cross-linked hyaluronic acid, which is typically not of animal origin.

The hyaluronic acid f) is advantageously crosslinked with a crosslinking agent which is selected from divinyl sulfone (DVS), N, N'-dicycloesylcarbodiimide (DCC) or 1-ethyl-3- (3-dimethyl-aminopropyl) -carbodiimide, dimethylaminopropyl -carbodiimide (EDC) or adipic acid dihydrazide (ADH), butanediol diglycidyl ether (BDDE).

Component f) has a high capacity for binding to water molecules and thus proves to be an excellent hydrating agent.

Typically, a chemical modification of the hyaluronic acid by crosslinking is carried out to obtain crosslinked hyaluronic acid. In the crosslinked form, the glycosidic β-1,4 bonds, the breakage of which is catalyzed by hyaluronase, are more strongly protected, so that the breakdown processes of the polysaccharide chain are slowed down. The cross-linked hyaluronic acid remains intact on the skin surface for a longer period of time.

In certain embodiments, the hyaluronic acid can be crosslinked by attachment of thiols, methacrylates or triamines, or the hyaluronic acid can be crosslinked directly with formaldehyde or with divinyl sulfone.

In certain embodiments, the hyaluronic acid is crosslinked using divinyl sulfone or 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether as the crosslinking agent, the former being the preferred agent.

According to certain embodiments, the hyaluronic acid of components a), g) or h) in a proportion of 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight exist; the hyaluronic acid of component b) can be present in an amount of from 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight; the hyaluronic acid of component c) can be present in an amount of 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight; the hyaluronic acid of component d) can be present in an amount of 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight; the hyaluronic acid of component e) can be present in a proportion of 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight; the hyaluronic acid of component f) can be present in a proportion of 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. All of the aforementioned weight percentages relate to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of the present invention, the term physiologically acceptable salts of hyaluronic acid is understood to mean the sodium and potassium salts and other cosmetically suitable salts and mixtures thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the hyaluronic acid salt is the sodium salt.

Typically, components a) -e) of the hyaluronic acid mixture according to the invention are in free form or in the form of one of the physiologically acceptable salts of hyaluronic acid, while component f) is in the form of a cross-linked gel.

In the context of the present invention, the term hyaluronic acid in free form is understood to mean hyaluronic acid as a form that has not been converted into a salt.

The fat-soluble vitamins present in certain embodiments of the second component of the kit according to the invention exert an important antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect and thereby cause a natural prevention of damage caused by UV radiation, environmental pollution and internal chemical reactions Free radicals are caused on the epithelial cells.

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin that occurs naturally in different forms. The term vitamin A means retinol and retinoids, carotenoids and their mixtures.

A suitable vitamin occurs in three different forms: alcohol (retinol), aldehyde (retinaldehyde) and acid (retinoic acid). These are isoprenoid derivatives that are formed by the union of four isoprene chains.

Suitable carotenoids, which are vegetable pigments, include α-carotene, β-carotene, lutein, zeaxantine, cryptoxantine, lycopene, and mixtures thereof. The retinol esters are also suitable forms of vitamin A. The effects of retinol at the skin level are due in part to the effects of retinol itself, but in large part to the effects of its metabolites, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. Retinol has various functions in epithelial tissue, including the process of cell differentiation of cheratinocytes and induction of synthesis of collagen and elastin, and it is effective in preventing photoaging. Its mechanism of action consists in starting an actual cell reprogramming through an effect of gene repression and gene repression, which leads the skin cells back into a vital phase of their organisms at a young age. This has the effect of reducing wrinkles and wrinkles. Vitamin A also stimulates the formation of hyaluronic acid.

The vitamin C or ascorbic acid is a water-soluble vitamin which is contained in the formulation of the composition in the gel of the kit because of its reductive effect and its effect as an electron donor. In the presence of oxygen and metals, the ascorbic acid tends to be oxidized to form dehydroascorbic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Its antioxidant effect counteracts the effects of intrinsic as well as extrinsic skin aging due to its pronounced light protection activity. In addition, vitamin C has anti-inflammatory properties, combats the effects of aging, counteracts sagging skin and regulates the density of collagen in the dermis. It also acts as a cofactor for lysine and proline hydrolyase, which are two enzymes that are essential for collagen biosynthesis. An increase in collagen production leads to an improvement in skin quality in terms of elasticity and resilience.

Vitamin E or tocopherol is used for its antioxidant activity and for its ability to neutralize the reactivity of free radicals by blocking the cascade of events that cause the oxidative stress responsible for cell damage. In addition, vitamin E improves the hydration of the skin at the level of the horny layer of the epidermis by keeping the water in the skin layers. After it has fulfilled its function, the tocopherol is oxidized and becomes inactive, although its functionality can be regenerated by the presence of vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid. Accordingly, the combination of vitamins E and C increases and prolongs the antioxidant effect.

The vitamin B5 or pantothenic acid is a precursor of coenzymes which are involved in various metabolic cell activities and has the ability to improve the response of the immune system under stress conditions. Vitamin B5 is an important component of the cellular energy cycle.

The vitamin B3 or niacin or vitamin PP is a precursor of a family of factors which support the action of enzymes: in particular they form nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), its phosphorylated derivative (NADP) and the corresponding reduced forms (NADH and NADPH) with antioxidant properties. These cofactors are involved in a large number of enzymatic reactions that take place at the skin level. The topical application of vitamin B3 is responsible for several activities at the skin level, including stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids, free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides, which are an integral part of the near-surface hydrophilic film, the reduction of which causes dry skin . The cutaneous application of vitamin B3 improves the barrier effect of the epidermis and increases the skin's resistance to external injuries. It also reduces hyperpigmentation of the skin because it inhibits the transition of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Vitamin B3 is also able to stimulate the fibroblasts to produce more collagen and is therefore responsible for improving the elasticity and tension of the skin.

The vitamin H or biotin is a water-soluble vitamin of the B complex. The functions of vitamin H are of the coenzymatic carboxylase type, which is an enzyme belonging to the category of lyases, which bind a CO2 molecule and then transfer it to the carboxylase.

The vitamin B9 or folic acid is a water-soluble vitamin of group B, which is required for all reactions of synthesis, repair and methylation of DNA.

The vitamin B12 or cyanocobalamin is a substance which is used by the organism for the formation of nucleotides (substances indispensable for the formation of DNA) as well as for lipid metabolism and for the correct functioning of the nervous system.

The vitamin B6 or pyridoxine is an enzymatic cofactor in processes such as the synthesis and breakdown of amino acids and the fatty acid and sugar metabolism. It supports the process of cell growth.

The vitamin B2 or riboflavin is involved in many metabolic reactions which can also affect other vitamins, so that a deficiency in riboflavin can lead to a polycarential state with respect to other vitamins. Deficiency in riboflavin causes menorrhoeic dermatitis and dry skin.

The vitamin B1 or thiamine is a water-soluble vitamin which plays an important role in the oxidative decarboxylation of pyruvate and of α-ketoglutarate in the Krebs cycle and the transketolase reactions in the pentose phosphate cycle.

The kit according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more trace elements, also referred to as oligo elements, or their salts with the aim of providing specific minerals which intervene in the physiological processes of the skin that can cause skin impurities such as rosacea, dehydration and premature aging.

The calibrated supply of oligoelements results in a nourishing effect as well as a protective effect for the skin, whereby the trophy and the appearance are improved.

The composition of the present invention advantageously contains one or more oligo elements or their salts, in particular their inorganic salts, the oligo elements being selected from copper, magnesium, manganese, zinc, iron, calcium and mixtures thereof.

The copper (Cu) is a component of several enzymes, including SOD (superoxide dismutase), which combats cellular oxidation, as well as enzymes involved in the synthesis of collagen, elastin and melanin. It is also important for the keratinization processes of the skin and hair, because it catalyzes the oxidation of cysteine to cystine. In certain embodiments, a copper salt, typically copper chloride (MW 134.45 Daltons), is used.

Magnesium (Mg) contributes to the assimilation of Ca by influencing cell permeability, and it is involved in the cellular acid-base balance and in redox processes in the cell interior. In certain embodiments, a magnesium salt, typically magnesium chloride (MW 95.21 Daltons), is used.

Manganese (Mn) is an anti-radical which, as a component of SOD, works together with copper in the synthesis of collagen and elastin and is also involved in the synthesis of DNA and RNA. In certain embodiments, a manganese salt, typically manganese chloride (MW 161.87 Daltons), is used.

The zinc (Zn) has an antioxidant effect because it reduces the formation of free radicals, in the formation of numerous enzymes that regulate protein synthesis and is involved in tissue repair. Zinc is an important element for the skin. It stimulates the immune system, is a powerful antioxidant (through the SOD), is an essential and sole cofactor for the enzymes of longevity (the sirtuins) and is a protector of mitochondrial and nuclear DNA. In certain embodiments, a zinc salt, typically zinc chloride (MW 136.32 Daltons), is used.

Iron (Fe) is an essential component of hemoglobin, which is indispensable for the transport of oxygen to all cells, and is also an important component of antioxidant enzymes such as peroxidases and catalases. In certain embodiments, an iron salt, typically ferric chloride (MW 162.20 Daltons), is used.

Calcium (Ca) is involved in the permeability of the cell membrane, is essential for the absorption of Mg, Fe, Na and K and, together with Mg and K, is a component of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) in the skin existing factor of natural hydration.

One or more trace elements are advantageously present in the form of chlorides in order to provide better stability and solubility. For example, a calcium salt, typically calcium chloride (MW 110.98 Daltons), is used.

Polynucleotides, typically DNA and / or RNA, are advantageously present in the kit according to the invention. In the context of the present invention, the term “polynucleotide” is understood to mean a filamentous or chain-like polymer based on nucleotides, in particular on components of genetic material such as DNA or RNA.

Suitable nucleotides are the monomeric components of the nucleic acids RNA and DNA.

The polynucleotides of DNA / RNA exert an anti-aging effect and a repairing effect because the polynucleotides act as donors of purine and pyrimidine bases, which are key molecules for the vitality of the cells. The DNA fragments stimulate cell repair by reducing the symptoms of inflammation and accelerating the epithelial regeneration process. In vivo tests show that the DNA fragments improve the elasticity and thickness of the skin and also have a certain anti-wrinkle effect.

The formulations of the present invention advantageously contain DNA fragments with a molecular weight of 600 Daltons and RNA fragments with a molecular weight of 330 Daltons (MW), which are preferably obtained from yeast.

The ability of the two components in the form of gel and emulsion of the kit to penetrate into the skin and be absorbed by it was examined, the amount available in the epidermis and dermis at the measurement times 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours was determined.

In particular, tests for penetration by means of Franz diffusion cells were carried out which, by using skin membranes made up of epidermis and dermis, enable the actively penetrated amount to be determined at the measurement times of 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours. The Franz diffusion cell is the most widely used ex vivo system for determining the degree of absorption of a substance through the skin.

The cells used for the experiment, which were thermostated to 37 ° C by means of a continuous flow of propylene glycol, have two chambers, namely an upper donor and a lower receiving cell, between which the skin part is inserted, the whole with The hook is attached in such a way that the solution cannot escape during the test.

The molecule to be examined is introduced into the upper donor chamber in contact with the skin, while the receiving chamber is filled with physiological saline solution (32 g for each cell) and kept stirring by means of a magnetic stir bar.

The receiving chamber is provided with a sample tube, by means of which the sampling phase can be taken at the specified measurement times, and with an outer collar which is connected to a thermostating system. The whole thing is housed in a glass attachment, which is located on a magnetic plane, which allows the magnetic stirrer bars to be turned while the cells remain stationary.

Several series of Franz cells were set up with five cells per product tested.

For each measurement time (30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours) a series of five cells was set up because the determination is carried out on a part of the skin with destruction of the sample and thus each determination is the continuation of the test and the determination of the penetration of the molecule prevented at the next measurement time.

In other words, for each product to be examined, three series of Franz cells, each with five cells, are set up for withdrawals after 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours.

The analytical determinations were carried out in the form of: chemical analyzes (HPLC) and spectrophotometric analyzes (mass spectrometry) for amino acids, vitamins and oligo elements, GPC-TDA analyzes for the nucleic acids.

In order to subtract the amounts of the endogenous amino acids, vitamins, oligoelements and nucleic acids contained in the tissue from those which were present after application of the products, each determination was carried out in comparison with untreated tissue.

The following shows the penetration results that were found for each amino acid molecule present in the two components of the kit at the measurement times of 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours.

Amino acids - tissue: epidermis + dermis

[0100]

[0101]

[0102]

[0103]

The following shows the penetration results that were determined for each of the vitamin molecules present in the two components of the kit at the measurement times of 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours.

Vitamin tissue: epidermis + dermis

[0105]

[0106]

The penetration results which were determined for each oligo element at the measurement times 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours are shown below.

Oligo elements: epidermis + dermis

[0108]

Finally, the penetration data for the nucleic acids at the measurement times 30 minutes, 8 hours and 24 hours are shown.

Nucleic acids - tissue: epidermis + dermis

[0110]

The ex vivo study proves the penetration into the skin of all examined biorevitalizing molecules.

Their penetration begins as early as 30 minutes after application to the skin and continues for the following 24 hours.

After just 8 hours, the rate of penetration into the epidermis and dermis is significant for the majority of the molecules examined.

After 24 hours, all the molecules investigated have overcome the superficial layer of the epidermis and reached the underlying dermis, where, thanks to their chemical-physical properties, they exert a deep stimulating effect on the physiological processes of the skin and thereby revitalize the skin.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the epidermis, comprising the sequential or separate application to the epidermis of an individual of: a composition in the form of a hydrogel according to one of the aforementioned embodiments, a composition in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion according to one of the aforementioned embodiments.

The applicant has found that the application of the composition in the form of a gel on the skin for the delivery and penetration of the biorevitalizing hydrophilic active substances and the subsequent application of the composition in the form of an emulsion on the same skin region for the delivery and penetration of the biorevitalizing lipophilic Active substances have the consequence that the skin is supplied with bio-revitalizing substances which have a combined cosmetic effect.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic method of the invention provides for the application to the skin of the composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel, in which the mixture of the above-described hyaluronic acids a) to f) and optionally additional two components of hyaluronic acid g) and h) are present.

Advantageously, the applicant's method provides for the application of the gel preparation to the face, which supplies the biorevitalizing hydrophilic substances in a 10-minute application. As soon as the skin has absorbed the gel, the application of the light emulsion, which contains the biorevitalizing lipophilic active substances, is continued.

The emulsion also has the purpose of applying lipophilic nourishing substances to the skin in order to give the application maximum comfort.

One or more of the hydrophilic or lipophilic components of the kit can advantageously be formulated as a microemulsion, with the aim of increasing the solubility and the supply of the bio-revitalizing active substances, it also being possible to formulate a transparent product.

An emulsifier is preferably present in the formulations of the component in the form of an emulsion. The function of an emulsifier is to enable substances that are naturally insoluble in water to be dissolved in the aqueous phase. When an emulsifier is dispersed in water together with lipophilic substances, the molecules that form tend to agglomerate and form droplets with a mostly spherical shape, which are known as micelles.

The structure of the micelles is such that the carbon chain of the solvent inside remains away from the aqueous phase, while the hydrophilic group faces the surface of the spherical particle. The lipophilic substances dissolve inside the micelles near the lipophilic hydrocarbon region.

The presence of micelles in an aqueous solution enables naturally insoluble bodies to be dissolved in water under normal conditions.

In certain embodiments, the second component of the kit according to the invention is in the form of a microemulsion.

[0125] Suitable microemulsions have the following advantages: They are thermodynamically stable and, in the absence of degradation of their components, have a long-term stability. In contrast, emulsions are thermodynamically unstable, which means that over time they gradually tend to separate into an oily phase and an aqueous phase. They have thermodynamic stability because they essentially form spontaneously. In contrast, emulsions, because they are thermodynamically more unstable, require an energy supply, which very often consists of the use of homogenizers under high pressure. They are essentially transparent.

The diameter of the emulsified droplets in the white or milky emulsions advantageously varies between 0.5 and 20 μm. When the dispersed droplets have a size in the range from 1 nm to 1 μm, there is no longer any refraction of light, and these multiphase systems appear as transparent as the microemulsions.

The diameter of the micelles is preferably in the range from 5 to 20 nm.

Advantageously, the surfactants used include PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil, Trideceth-9 and Polysorbate-20. The small amount of the product required to dissolve lipophilic starting materials makes it possible to improve the sensory properties of the end product, in that the stickiness and foaminess typical of formulations with high amounts of solubilizers are not found.

The two components of the kit according to the invention can advantageously contain carriers and / or pharmaceutically acceptable auxiliaries.

The biorevitalizing lipophilic substances according to the invention can typically be dispersed using solubilization methods based on the presence of micelles of infinitesimal size. This technology creates a microemulsion with the appearance and transparency of a gel. In certain embodiments, some bio-revitalizing hydrophilic substances can be present in the hydrophilic phase of the microemulsion.

Typically, the two components of the kit can be applied in the form of a gel or an emulsion by means of an applicator / dosing device that is equipped with a blunt-ended cannula and allows the amount of product absorbed to be measured and this to be applied with precision to release treating skin areas.

The present invention is explained below with reference to the subsequent exemplary embodiment, which, however, only serves for illustration and is not to be interpreted as a restriction of the subject matter of the invention.

example 1

The formulations of the two components gel and emulsion of a dermocosmetic kit for biorevitalization of the skin are shown below:

Formulation of the gel (component 1) in the cosmetic kit

Formulation of the emulsion (component 2) in the dermocosmetic kit

Claims (14)

1. Dermocosmetic biorevitalizing kit for external use with rapid entry, comprising: A first composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel, containing: a mixture of water-soluble amino acids comprising alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine and valine, optionally as salts or esters; Nucleic acids; and a water-soluble vitamin selected from group B vitamins and vitamin C, including mixtures thereof; - A second composition in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion, containing: taurine and a mixture of lipophilic amino acids comprising acetylcysteine and / or cysteine, glutamic acid, lysine, leucine, methionine, glutamine, tryptophan and tyrosine, optionally as Salts or esters; and a fat-soluble vitamin selected from vitamin A and vitamin E including mixtures thereof. 2. Kit according to claim 1, wherein the first composition additionally comprises a trace element. 3. Kit according to claim 2, wherein said trace element is selected from the group formed from calcium, iron, manganese, magnesium, copper and zinc. 4. Kit according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the vitamin of group B is selected from vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B8, B9, B12 and their salts and / or esters. 5. Kit according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the first composition additionally comprises a mixture of hyaluronic acids, which are selected from the group comprising: a) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 800 to 1200 Dalton, b) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 4000 to 6000 Daltons, c) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 20,000 to 70,000 Daltons, d) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 150,000 to 250,000 Daltons, e) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 1,800,000 to 2,200,000 Daltons, f) crosslinked hyaluronic acid or a crosslinked physiologically acceptable salt thereof. 6. Kit according to claim 5, wherein the hyaluronic acid is crosslinked with a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl sulfone, N, N'-dicycloesylcarbodiimide, 1-ethyl-3- (3-dimethyl-aminopropyl) -carbodiimide, dimethylaminopropyl-carbodiimide, adipic acid dihydrazide and butanediol diglycidyl ether is selected. 7. Kit according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the first composition additionally includes a hyaluronic acid of low average molecular weight selected from g) hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of 300 to 500 Dalton, h) hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of 700 to 900 Dalton and their Includes mixtures. 8. Kit according to one of claims 1 to 7, which additionally contains vitamin F. 9. The kit of claim 2, wherein the first composition and the second composition are combined to form an overall emulsion. 10. Kit according to claim 9, additionally containing an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion for application after the total emulsion. 11. A method for the cosmetic treatment of the epidermis for bio-revitalization of the skin, comprising the sequential or separate application to the skin of an individual of: A first composition in the form of a gel or hydrogel containing: a mixture of water-soluble amino acids comprising alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine and valine; Nucleic acids; a water-soluble vitamin selected from group B vitamins, vitamin C including mixtures thereof; as well as an oligo element A second composition in the form of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion containing; Taurine and a mixture of lipophilic amino acids, including cysteine or acetylcysteine, glutamic acid, lysine, leucine, methionine, glutamine, tryptophan and tyrosine; and a fat-soluble vitamin selected from vitamin A and vitamin E including mixtures thereof. 12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the first composition additionally comprises a mixture of hyaluronic acids which are selected from the group comprising: a) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 800 to 1200 Dalton, b) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 4000 to 6000 Daltons, c) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 20,000 to 70,000 Daltons, d) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 150,000 to 250,000 Daltons, e) hyaluronic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, with an average molecular weight of 1,800,000 to 2,200,000 Daltons, f) crosslinked hyaluronic acid or a crosslinked physiologically acceptable salt thereof. 13. The method according to claim 12, wherein the first composition additionally comprises a hyaluronic acid of low average molecular weight selected from g) hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of 300 to 500 Dalton, h) hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of 700 to 900 Dalton and mixtures thereof. 14. The method according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the first composition and the second composition form a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and are applied by means of an applicator with a metering device that is equipped with a blunt-ended cannula and allows the amount of the applied product and to release it with precision onto the epidermis to be treated.