BG1856U1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The utility model relates to a cosmetic composition which contains biomass and exopolysaccharide, wherein the exopolysaccharide is glucomannan. The exopolysaccharide and the biomass are biotechnologically obtained from the red yeast producer Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL1, deposited in NBIMCC under № 8290 on 04.12.2013 and selected form Antarctic soil samples. The exopolysaccharide is a very good emulsifier and stabilizer of emulsions and the biomass contains biologically active substances with antioxidant activity, which leads to slowing the process of aging of the skin. According to the utility model these two components are combined in an optimal ratio and in combination with the other ingredients from the present utility model show unexpectedly good effects upon administration as cosmetics- creams, lotions, etc.

Description

Field of application

The utility model refers to a cosmetic composition that contains exopolysaccharide and yeast biomass. In particular, the compositions contain a biotechnologically derived glucomannan from the red yeast producer Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AC, достъп for access to NBMCK 8290, deposited on 04.12.2003, as an emulsifier and stabilizer of emulsions, and its biomass containing biologically active substances. with antioxidant activity.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

In the modern cosmetics industry there is a growing desire to replace the synthetic components, which are widely used, with natural products. This is because some of the known synthetic ingredients do not lead to a positive cosmetic effect, because there are side effects, allergies, rashes, skin pigmentation. Another problem is the stability of emulsions composed of synthetic emulsifiers, which is not always high enough.

This has led to the creation of many cosmetic compositions containing natural products, including those containing polysaccharides. Thus, for example, cosmetic compositions disclosed in patent application US 2011/0150795 containing exopolysaccharides from microorganisms from French Polynesia, or patent RU 2322493, in which a strain of the bacterium Paracoccus denitrificans and exopolysaccharides from it are protected, which can potentially find in various fields, incl. perfumery and cosmetics. U.S. Patent Application 2009/0238782 describes various cosmetic compositions containing exopolysaccharides from the deep-water, hydrothermal bacteria Alteromonas, and from patent application WO 2012/072245, cosmetic compositions for application to the skin, hair or nails containing exopolysaccharides of Pudo exopolysaccharides are known. .

To date, the yeast Sporobolomyces salmonicolor or products thereof have not found application in the manufacture of cosmetic compositions. Thus, U.S. Pat. No. 3,769,170 describes a method for producing coenzyme Q ₁₀ from various microorganisms, incl. the above-mentioned Sporobolomyces salmonicolor IFO 374, but used in medicine, and in patent US 4686307 5 describes a product containing esters obtained by fermentation of various yeasts, including Sporobolomyces salmonicolor, ATCC № 26697. These esters are used in various fields , including perfumery, cosmetic powders, hair preparations, but as fragrances.

Therefore, there is a need to create more effective cosmetic compositions with good emulsion stability, in which synthetic 15 components are replaced by biologically active natural components. It is desirable that in addition to exopolysaccharides that protect the skin from drying out, they contain other components from the group of natural biologically active ingredients, such as beta-carotene, coenzyme Q ₁₀ , ergosterol, torulene, torularodine, protein, lipids, which have an extremely beneficial effect when applied to human skin. All of them prevent the deterioration of the skin25 by external environmental factors, leading to a slowdown in the aging process.

Technical essence of the utility model

This utility model relates to 30 cosmetic compositions comprising an exopolysaccharide, which in particular contains: an exopolysaccharide synthesized by the red yeast producer Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL, № for access to NBMCK 8290, in an amount of 0.1 to 2% 35% by weight, biomass from yeast from 1 to 30%, and additives customary for cosmetic compositions, such as moisturizers from 1 to 10%, chelate compound from 0.05 to 0.20%, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 to 0.20%, antioxidants from 0.03 40 1.00%, preservatives 0.05 - 1.00% and perfume composition from 0.1 - 0.70%.

The cosmetic composition of the present utility model may further comprise other area-specific components, the nature of which is determined by the intended use of the cosmetic composition. For example, in one embodiment of the utility model, it refers to a facial cleansing gel that comprises:

Exopolysaccharide 0.1-2% 50 Biomass 1-20%

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Humidifiers 1-3% Alpha-hydroxy acid 0.0-0.3% Preservatives 0.05-1.2% Chelate compound 0.05-0.2% Perfume composition 0.0-0.7% Surface active substances 30-45% Thickeners 2-5% Deionized water up to 100%. In another embodiment, the useful model refers to face and body emulsions with the following: Exopolysaccharide 0.1-2% Biomass 1-30% Humidifiers 1-5% Antioxidant 0.03-1.00% Alpha-hydroxy acid 0.0-0.3% Preservatives 0.05-1.2% Emulsifiers 2-10% Emollients 10-30% Stabilizers 0.1-3.00% Thickeners 0-5% Chelate compound 0.05-0.2% Perfume composition 0.0-0.7% Deionized water up to 100%. In yet another embodiment, The utility model refers to cleaning and hydrating ration lotions with a composition: Exopolysaccharide 0.1-2% Biomass 1-30% Humidifiers 1-10% Antioxidant 0.03-1.00% Alpha-hydroxy acid 0.0-0.3% Preservatives 0.05-1.2%. Alcohol from 0-30% Solubilizer 0-2.00% Chelate compound 0.05-0.2% Perfume composition 0.0-0.7% Deionized water up to 100%. The exopolysaccharide used in the above

variants of the compositions of the present utility model, is a glucomannan obtained by biotechnological route from the producer strain Sporobolomyces salmonicolorAL ₁ № for access to NBMCK 8290, selected from Antarctic soil samples, as described by Pavlova, K., Koleva L. Kratchanova M. , Panchev I (2004)

Production and characterization of an exopolysaccharide by yeast. World J. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 20: 435-439. The synthesis of the exopolysaccharide was performed on a nutrient medium with carbon source sucrose and nitrogen ammonium sulfate in a ratio of 20: 1, magnesium sulfate, potassium phosphate, sodium chloride, calcium dichloride and yeast extract, initial pH 5.3. The cultivation was performed in flasks and then the process was transferred to a bioreactor under the following conditions - stirring speed 400 rpm, air flow rate 1 L / L.min, temperature 22 ° C for 96 h. Upon completion of the fermentation process, the biomass is separated from the culture fluid and the supernatant is precipitated with 96% ethyl alcohol to give the polysaccharide, which is kept at low temperature for 24 hours, centrifuged, washed and dried by lyophilization.

The properties of the biopolymer have been reported by Poli A., G. Anzelmo, G. Tommonaro, K. Pavlova, A. Casaburi & B. Nicolaus, 2010. Production and chemical characterization of exopolysaccharides synthesized by psychrophilic yeast strain Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL] isolated from Livingston Iceland, Antarctica, Folia Microbiologica 55 (6), 576-581. It consists of 90.2% carbohydrates, 5.3% protein, 4.5% ash, and is composed of glucose mannose 54.1%, mannose 42.6% and fucose 3.3%. The two main monosaccharides are in repeating units linked by a glucosidic bond; the beta configuration of the units has been confirmed. Its molecular weight is over 1 kDa. It is soluble in hot and cold water, heat resistant up to 280 ° C, forms viscous solutions, has a strong emulsifying ability, which makes it a good emulsifier in oil / water and water / oil systems. Creamy emulsion products with 2% exopolysaccharide relative to the aqueous phase and 50% oil phase show 100% stability (Kuncheva,., K. Pavlova, I. Panchev, S. Dobreva. Emulsifying power of mannan and glucomannan produced by yeasts. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 29 (5), 377-384, 2007).

The biomass used in the present utility model is the biomass obtained in the above-mentioned manner from the mentioned strain Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL ^ It is rich in biologically active substances - beta-carotene, coen

1856 UI winter Q _{| 0} , ergosterol, torulene, torularodine, protein and lipids. Contained in this biomass beta-carotene and coenzyme Q ₁₀ show high antioxidant activity Dimirtova S., Pavlova K., Lukanov L. 2013. Production of metabolites with antioxidant and emulsifying properties by Antarctic strain Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL, Appl. Biochem. and Biotechnol., 169: 301-311, The favorable characteristics of biomass determine the high biological value of the product, which can be used successfully in various cosmetic applications. This is primarily due to biomass as a carrier of useful biologically active substances, but also to glucomannan as a very good emulsifier for creating products to stimulate the biological functions of the skin and neutralize free radicals. In the present utility model, these two components are combined in an optimal ratio, and in combination with the other ingredients of the current utility model show unexpectedly good effects when used as cosmetic products.

Moisturizers such as glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate are also used in the cosmetic composition of the present skin care model; emulsifiers such as sodium stearyl lactylate, self-emulsifying (ie) glycerol monostearate, polyglyceryl 3-stearate, polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxy-stearate and the like, emollients such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, deciloleate, almond oil oil, apricot kernel oil, etc. vegetable oils. Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol are used as preservatives, and butylhydroxytoluene, tocopherol acetate and the like are used as antioxidants. Typically, to adjust the pH in the range of 5.0 to 6.5, the cosmetic compositions also contain alpha-hydroxy acid, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid; and for metal capture, the compositions also contain a chelate compound such as the disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or the tetrasodium salt of EDTA. The compositions of the present utility model also contain a perfume composition.

Additionally, depending on its purpose, the present cosmetic composition contains other customary components, for example surfactants, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, cocamide diethanolamine (DEA), cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium polyethylene glycol polyethylene glycol sulfosuccinate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; solubilizers such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or polysorbate 20 and the like. Some of these common components are marketed in a ready-to-use form, such as the combination of surfactants used as a base for cleansing cosmetics - SABOSOL SDP, which, according to the manufacturer, contains in particular: sodium laurate sulphate (15- 25%), disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (510%), cocoamido DEA (4-5%), cocoamidopropyl betaine (1-5%), disodium PEG-8 palm glyceride sulfosuccinate (1-5%) and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate ( 1-5%), or the viscosity adjusting agent SABODERM SHO containing PEG7 glyceryl cocoate (10-25%), PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate (25-50%). Both combinations are commercially available from SABO S.p.A. Another commonly used ready-made combination is the preservative combination of phenoxyethanol (90%), ethylhexyl glycerin (10%), which is commercially available from Schuelke & Mayr under the trade name Euxyl PE 9010.

Examples of implementation of the utility model

The present utility model is explained in more detail by the following examples of compositions which do not limit it, but are intended for illustration only. All percentages in the description and the following claims are weight percentages.

Example 1. Facial cleansing gel

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1 Trade name of the raw material Composition in% SABOSOL SDP 35.00 ΐ Glycerin 1.00 I SABODERM SHO 2.50 | Cocoamidopropyl betaine I _ .... 5.00 । Exopolysaccharide 0.50 1 Biomass 20.00 | Disodium salt of EDTA 0.10 ‘2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1.3 diol 0.05 !! Perfume composition 0.40 । Sol ί 2.00 । Lactic acid q.s. to pH 5.5 ' Deionized water Up to 100

Weigh the components and slowly mix at room temperature in a vessel equipped with a stirrer, then adjust the pH to 5.5 with lactic acid. Stirring is continued until the mixture is completely homogenous. The resulting facial cleansing gel, after analysis in an analytical and microbiological laboratory, is ready for filling in appropriate packages for use.

Example 2. Day cream for face, type of emulsion: Oil / Water

Trade name of the raw material Composition in%. Phase: A / Oil phase / 1 Sodium stearyl lactylate 2.00 i !! Polyg lyceryl-3-stearate 3.00, Shea butter 2.00 ^! Glyceryl monostearate s.e. 2.00. Cetyl alcohol 2.00 i Caprylic / capric triglyceride 3.00 I 1 Almond oil 2.00 1 Grape seed oil 2.00

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Sunflower oil 3.00 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Phase B / Aqueous phase / Glycerin 3.00 Xanthan 0.20 Disodium salt of EDTA . ... .... .. 0.20 Deionized water 45.00 | Phase C / Active components 1 Exopolysaccharide 2.00 Biomass 20.00 Euxyl PE 9010 1.00 Lactic acid 0.10 Deionized water up to 100

Method of preparation of the oil / water emulsion:

1. Weigh the components of phase A and heat in a water bath to a temperature of 78 ° C, stirring until the solid oil components are completely melted.

2. In another vessel, break the xanthan in the water to obtain a homogeneous solution. The other components of phase B were added and heated to 78 ° C.

3. Slowly add phase A to phase B with constant stirring.

4. The resulting mixture is homogenized with a homogenizing machine for 3 minutes.

5. Cool the emulsion with constant stirring to a temperature of about 45 ° C.

6. The active ingredients and phase C additives are added and the emulsion is homogenized for 1-2 minutes.

7. Cooling is continued to room temperature, after which the finished emulsion is analyzed in an analytical and microbiological laboratory and then filled into suitable packages.

Example 3. Post face cream; type of water / oil emulsion

Name of raw material Composition in%

Phase: A / Oil phase /) Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.50 i Capricorn / capric triglyceride 3.00 j Sunflower oil 2.00. Shea butter 4.00 Almond oil 2.00

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Olive oil 2.00 Wheat germ oil 1.00 i Beeswax 1.00 Cetyl papmitate 2.00 Lanolin 0.50, Magnesium stearate 1.00 BHT 0.03! Phase B / Aqueous phase / !! Glycerin 4.00 Allantoin 0.20 and i Magnesium sulfate 0.50; 1 Disodium salt of EDTA 0.20 Deionized water 50.00: Phase C / Active components / Exopolysaccharide 0.50 _: Biomass 10.00; Lactic acid 0.05 ^! D-panthenol 0.50 1 Tocopheryl appetite 0.20; 1 Vitamin A palmitate 0.10 Euxyl PE 9010 0.70 and ΐ Perfume composition 0.40 ' Deionized water up to 100 j

Method of preparation of the Water / Oil emulsion:

1. Weigh the components of phase A and heat in a water bath to a temperature of 78 ° C, stirring until the solid oil components are completely melted.

2. In another vessel, heat the prescribed amounts of phase B to the same temperature in a water bath.

3. Slowly add phase B to phase A with constant stirring.

4. The resulting mixture is homogenized with a homogenizing machine for 10 minutes.

5. Cool the emulsion at constant temperature to a temperature of about 40-45 ° C.

6. Add the active components of phase C and homogenize the emulsion for 1-2 minutes.

7. Cooling is continued to room temperature, after which the finished emulsion is analyzed in an analytical and microbiological laboratory and then filled into suitable packages.

Example 4. Moisturizing and cleansing lotion

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Trade name of the raw material Composition in% Exopolysaccharide 0.50 Biomass 30.00 Ethyl alcohol 30.00 Mr. Lycerin 4.00 Allantoin 0.20 D-panthenol 0.50 Sodium hyaluronate 0.20 Lactic acid 0.20 Disodium salt of EDTA 0.10 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol 0.05 Deionized water Up to 100

The lotions are prepared by first weighing the prescription amounts of the components and then mixing them in a suitable vessel with stirring at room temperature. The finished lotion is analyzed in an analytical and microbiological laboratory and then filled into appropriate packages.

Example 5. Results of medicobiological tests

With the compositions of Example 2 and Example 3 day and night cream, the same medicobiological studies were performed, the results of which are identical and are presented in the tables below.

1. Clinical methods

A. One-time open epicutaneous test

The skin compatibility of the creams was tested in 20 volunteers. Fields measuring 2/4 cm on the inner surface of the forearm were marked. The appropriate cream was applied in the test field - day or night, in pure form, undiluted, as when used under the conditions of the cream. As a control, 5% sodium lauryl sulfate solution was used, with an application duration of 60 minutes.

The application of the respective cream in the test field was one-time and lasted 60 minutes. The reading was after washing the samples on the 24th hour; 48th hour; referring to four degrees: redness (0 to 4), blistering (0 to 3), edema (+ or -), itching (0 to 3), burning (0 to 3).

B. Single closed epicutaneous test with complete occlusion

The test was performed on 20 volunteers aged 25 to 70 years. Reference cosmetic products were used for comparison. The examined cosmetic product - day or night, is applied undiluted on the back for 48 hours by closed method. The results were reported on the 1st, 24th and 48th hour after downloading the closed test. The obtained results are reported visually by scoring system, when determining the average score, and are presented in Table 1.

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Table 1

Average score Number of persons with skin reactions Example 2 1 Example 3 i 0 '0 i 20 ¹ and ¹ 0 ² i - ⁰ 3! 3 1 0 4 and 4 i 0

The data show excellent compatibility of the cosmetic products of Example 2 and Example 3, containing exopolysaccharides and biomass, at exposures exceeding the expected conditions of use.

C. Repeated closed epicutaneous test under occlusion

Twenty women were examined using liquid paraffin. The product - day or night cream, is applied under occlusion of the back for 24 hours for the first time and for 6 hours daily in the following days (Frosch & Kligman, 1979). The reading is performed daily, after removal of the closed epicutaneous sample and before application of the next application, until the 8th day. The evaluation of the data of each indicator was performed taking into account the average values in points reported after the applications. The results are presented in Table 2,

Table 2

Average score

Number of linden with skin reactions

Example 2 Example 3 ^; 0 I 0 20 1] 1 0 2 7 0 3 3 0 4 4 0

The method used, with exposure exceeding the expected exposure conditions, given the purpose of the product of Examples 2 and 3, containing exopolysaccharides and biomass, shows the absence of objective skin reactions (erythema, desquamation, edema) and subjective complaints of irritation, burning or itching.

2. Uncontrolled test for home use The test was performed on 50 healthy women aged 25 to 70 years. In advance, the probants are given instructions on how to use the cream - day or night, and the indicators contained in a slip made for the study, in order to better assess the appearance and impact on the skin. The appropriate cream is applied once a day on cleansed skin. The results of the 20-day application of the creams of Examples 2 and 3 are given in Table 3.

Table 3

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Indicators ί Nature of user opinions for I

i the creams of Example 2 and Example 3 Excellent A lot Good Missing 1 good I Consistency 50 - 'Aroma 1 50 - | Color 50 - . , Application 1 50 - 1 Absorption by the skin 50 - - | Residual film 1 - - 50 1 Skin softening 50 * - I Elasticity i 50 - * - ¹ Irritation of: ; - the skin - 50 - the eyes - 50

The data in Table 3 show the full 25 approval by the probants of the organoleptic properties of the products according to Example 2 and Example 3, containing exopolysaccharides and biomass. Highly rated qualities such as easy application, absorption by the skin, lack of residual 30 film. The creams nourish, regenerate and instantly soften the skin. It quickly restores its elasticity and density. No adverse skin or eye irritation reactions have been reported. 35

The above results confirm the advantages of the current utility model, resulting from the richness of the specific biologically active substances contained in the biomass, which increase the regeneration of the 40 outer layers of the skin and improve its elasticity. As these substances are good antioxidants, they are involved in the neutralization of free radicals, and in addition ergosterol, turning under the action of 45 sunlight into vitamin D, plays a protective role against skin diseases.

Claims (4)

Claims Cosmetic composition based on biologically active substances, comprising an exopolysaccharide, characterized in that it also contains biomass, wherein the exopolysaccharide and the biomass are obtained from the red yeast producer Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL, : exopolysaccharide from 0.1 to 2%, biomass from 1 to 30% and usual cosmetic additives up to 100%. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the exopolysaccharide from the red yeast producer Sporobolomyces salmonicolor AL! contains glucomannan with a molecular weight exceeding 1 kDa, a beta configuration of the constituent units glucose, mannose and fucose, and a carbohydrate content of 90%. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is in the form of emulsions for face creams, comprising exopolysaccharide from 0.1 to 2% and biomass from 1 to 30%, and containing as usual cosmetic additives moisturizers from 1 to 10%, chelate compound from 0.05 - 0.20%, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 - 0.20%, antioxidants from 0.03 1.00%, preservatives 0.05 -1.00 %, and perfume composition of 0.1 - 0.70%, and as emollients: 1856 IU caprylic / capric triglyceride, decyloleate and / or vegetable oils selected from almond oil, olive oil, argan oil and / or apricot kernel oil, in an amount of 0.1 to 30%. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is in the form of a facial cleansing gel comprising exopolysaccharide from 0.1 to 2% and a biomass of from 1 to 30%, and as conventional cosmetic additives contains moisturizers of 1 to 10%, chelating compound from 0.05 - 0.20%, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 0.20%, antioxidants from 0.03 - 1.00%, preservatives 0.05 - 1.00% , a perfume composition of 0.1 to 0.70%, and one or more surfactants selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, cocamide DEA, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium PEG-8 palm glyceride sulfosuccinate 7-sulfylcosuccinate, , in an amount of 20 to 50%. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is in the form of a hydrating and cleansing lotion comprising an exopolysaccharide of 0.1 to 2% and a biomass of 1 to 30%, and as conventional cosmetic additives 10 contains: ethyl alcohol in an amount of 1 to 35%, humectants from 1 to 10%, a chelating compound of 0.05 - 0.20%, alpha-hydroxy acid of 0.01 - 0.20%, antioxidants of 0, 03 - 1.00%, preservatives 0.05 - 1.00% and perfume com15 position of 0.1 - 0.70%.