WO2024116413A1 - Powder cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Powder cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024116413A1
WO2024116413A1 PCT/JP2022/044619 JP2022044619W WO2024116413A1 WO 2024116413 A1 WO2024116413 A1 WO 2024116413A1 JP 2022044619 W JP2022044619 W JP 2022044619W WO 2024116413 A1 WO2024116413 A1 WO 2024116413A1
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Prior art keywords
mass
cosmetic composition
powder cosmetic
composition according
content
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PCT/JP2022/044619
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Kenta Fujioka
Hideshi Gohara
Koichi Hata
Original Assignee
Lvmh Recherche
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Priority to PCT/JP2022/044619 priority Critical patent/WO2024116413A1/en
Publication of WO2024116413A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024116413A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a powder cosmetic composition.
  • Powder foundations are an important type of makeup product in high demand, particularly in Asian markets. With the particularly high levels of humidity in Asia, there is considerable demand for powder foundations having a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect and a high coverage effect, as well as a long-lasting effect and a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • Powder foundations intended for Asian markets have been proposed, such as a cosmetic product comprising a liquid UV filter and a polyalkyldioxane (JP2015-110529A), and a cosmetic product comprising an inorganic UV filter powder and pearlite (JP2015-110530A).
  • JP2015-110529A and JP2015-110530A mention that the cosmetic products therein disclosed have ultraviolet protection effects and long-lasting effects. While sufficient ultraviolet protection effects and high coverage effects are provided, however, no powder foundation products have yet been reported that can also provide a long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the present invention provides a powder cosmetic composition
  • a powder cosmetic composition comprising (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent, (b) an organic ultraviolet absorbing agent, (c) a hydrophobically treated iron oxide, (d) a filler and (e) a polyol, wherein the iron oxide is treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters, organic titanate compounds and N-acyl amino acids and their salts.
  • component (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent
  • component (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent
  • the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise two or more different (c) hydrophobically treated iron oxides. This can further improve the long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling. It can also result in a more excellent effect of prolonging the initial shade after application.
  • the mean particle size of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be from 100 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 200 nm, more preferably from 140 nm to 190 nm and even more preferably from 150 nm to 185 nm. This can further improve the ultraviolet protection effect while also providing a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the content of (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be 5 to 30 mass%, preferably from 10 to 25 mass%, more preferably from 13 to 22 mass% and the most preferably from 15 to 20 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition. This can further improve the ultraviolet protection effect while also providing a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. If these components are used in the inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent it will be possible to impart a more excellent ultraviolet protection effect.
  • the (b) organic ultraviolet absorbing agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be a salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agent, preferably ethylhexyl salicylate. If this component is used as the organic ultraviolet absorbing agent it will be possible to further improve both the ultraviolet protection effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be from 1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 2 to 8 mass%, more preferably from 3 to 6 mass% and the most preferably from 4 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • a dextrin fatty acid ester may be dextrin isostearate
  • an organic titanate compound may be isopropyltitanium triisostearate
  • an N-acyl amino acid or its salt may be one or more selected from the group consisting of sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate. If the iron oxide is hydrophobically treated with these components it will be possible to obtain a more excellent high coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the total content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide may be from 0.2 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.2 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the (d) filler in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be one or more selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite.
  • the content of the (d) filler may be from 30 to 90 mass%, preferably from 40 to 85 mass%, more preferably from 50 to 80 mass% and the most preferably from 60 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the (e) polyol in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin.
  • the content of (e) polyol may be from 0.1 to 5 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 mass% and more preferably from 0.5 to 2 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 1.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide
  • the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be ethylhexyl salicylate
  • the (c) iron oxide is treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin isostearate, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate
  • the (d) filler may be at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite
  • the (e) polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin
  • the mean particle size of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 100 nm to 200 nm.
  • the content of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be from 5 to 30 mass% based on the total mass
  • the content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be from 1 to 10 mass% based on the total mass
  • the content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide may be from 0.2 to 40 mass% based on the total mass
  • the content of the (d) filler may be from 30 to 90 mass% based on the total mass
  • the content of the (e) polyol may be from 0.1 to 5 mass% based on the total mass; and the total content of (a) to (e) does not exceed 100 mass %.
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic method for care and/or makeup of skin, wherein the method includes applying a cosmetic composition of the invention onto the skin or lips.
  • the invention it is possible to provide a powder cosmetic composition that exhibits a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, high coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent.
  • inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent means an inorganic compound (inorganic powder) that increases the shield property against ultraviolet rays by scattering and/or reflection.
  • examples of inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium oxide. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are more preferred among these for a superior ultraviolet protection effect, with titanium dioxide being even more preferred.
  • a single inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the mean particle size of component (a) is not particularly restricted so long as a scattering and/or reflecting effect is exhibited for ultraviolet rays, but it may be from 100 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 200 nm, more preferably from 140 nm to 190 nm and even more preferably from 150 nm to 185 nm to further increase the ultraviolet scattering effect.
  • the mean particle size can be measured using a particle size distribution meter with an X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) or Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) or Laser Diffraction (LD).
  • inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents with mean particle sizes in this range include SOLAVEIL XTP1 and SOLAVEIL HTP1 (products of Croda) as titanium dioxides, and ZnO-S05 (product of Sumitomo Osaka Cement) as a zinc oxide.
  • the inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent of this embodiment may be one without surface treatment, or it may have a partial or total hydrophobically treated surface.
  • the hydrophobic treatment may be carried out by a common method using a hydrophobic treatment agent such as a fatty acid, dextrin fatty acid ester, N-acyl amino acid or its salt, for example.
  • hydrophobically treated inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents include titanium dioxide treated with alumina and stearic acid (trade name: SOLAVEIL XTP1 by Croda).
  • the content of component (a) may be from 5 to 30 mass%, preferably from 10 to 25 mass%, more preferably from 13 to 22 mass% and the most preferably from 15 to 20 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • Organic ultraviolet absorbing agent The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (b) an organic ultraviolet absorbing agent.
  • organic ultraviolet absorbing agent means an organic compound that increases the ultraviolet protection effect by absorbing ultraviolet rays.
  • organic ultraviolet absorbing agents include cinnamic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; paraaminobenzoic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as amyl paradimethylaminobenzoate and ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate; salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate; and phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid.
  • Salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents are preferred among these for a superior ultraviolet protection effect, with ethylhexyl salicylate being more preferred.
  • a single organic ultraviolet absorbing agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the content of component (b) may be from 1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 2 to 8 mass%, more preferably from 3 to 6 mass% and the most preferably from 4 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (c) a hydrophobically treated iron oxide.
  • the iron oxide is treated with one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters, organic titanate compounds and N-acyl amino acids and their salts. This improves dispersibility of the pigment (iron oxide) in the composition and increases adhesion with skin, to provide both a high coverage effect and long-lasting effect.
  • Examples for the dextrin fatty acid ester include dextrin isostearate, dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Isopropyltitanium triisostearate is an example of an organic titanate compound.
  • Examples of N-acyl amino acids and their salts include N-lauroylaspartic acid salts such as sodium N-lauroylaspartate; N-lauroylglutamic acid salts such as sodium N-lauroylglutamate; and N-stearoylglutamic acid salts such as disodium N-stearoylglutamate.
  • Hydrophobic treatment with dextrin isostearate, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, N-lauroylaspartic acid salts, N-lauroylglutamic acid salt or N-stearoylglutamic acid salts are preferred among these to provide a more excellent high coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, with dextrin isostearate being more preferred for hydrophobic treatment.
  • the hydrophobic treatment may be carried out using these hydrophobic treatment agents according to a common method.
  • Either a single type or two or more types of hydrophobically treated iron oxide may be included in the powder cosmetic composition, but two or more types are preferred to allow further improvement in the long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, as well as to provide a more excellent effect of prolonging the initial shade after application.
  • the phrase "two or more" used here may mean (i) two or more of the same iron oxide (such as (red) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by different methods, (ii) two or more different types of iron oxides (such as (red) iron oxide and (black) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by the same method, or (iii) two or more different types of iron oxides (such as (red) iron oxide and (black) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by different methods.
  • the content of component (c) may be from 0.2 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.2 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (d) a filler.
  • fillers examples include mica, silica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, talc, sericite, kaolin, cellulose and starch. Mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite, and their combinations, are preferred to obtain a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling with the powder cosmetic composition.
  • Component (d) may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the content of component (d) may be from 30 to 90 mass%, preferably from 40 to 85 mass%, more preferably from 50 to 80 mass% and the most preferably from 60 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (e) a polyol.
  • polyols examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol), 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, sorbitol, xylitol and mannitol.
  • 1,2-hexanediol pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol)
  • caprylyl glycol ethylhexylglycerin and their mixtures
  • 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures to allow a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
  • Component (e) may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the content of component (e) may be from 0.1 to 5 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 mass%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 1.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • Liquid oil agent The powder cosmetic composition of the invention may further include a liquid oil agent.
  • liquid oil agent refers to an oil agent that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atm).
  • the melting point of the liquid oil agent is preferably lower than 25°C at 1 atm, as measured by a known method, particularly "Quasi Drug Raw Material Standards, Method 3".
  • liquid oil agents examples include hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, vegetable squalane, liquid paraffins, light liquid isoparaffins and alkanes (such as C13-15, C15-19 and C18-21 alkanes); ester oils such as coco-caprylate/caprate and caprylic/capric triglyceride; and silicone oils such as dimethicone and methyltrimethicone. Preferred among these are squalane, C15-19 alkanes, coco-caprylate/caprate, and mixtures of the same.
  • a single liquid oil agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the content of the liquid oil agent may be from 0.1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 7 mass%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 3 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • Pigment other than component (c) The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment may further include a pigment other than component (c) for an even higher coverage effect.
  • pigments other than component (c) examples include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium oxide. Titanium dioxide is preferred among these for a more excellent coverage effect.
  • the pigment other than component (c) may be a single compound used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the pigment other than component (c) may be one without surface treatment, or it may have a partial or total hydrophobically treated surface.
  • the hydrophobic treatment may be carried out by a common method using a hydrophobic treatment agent such as a fatty acid, dextrin fatty acid ester, N-acyl amino acid or its salt, for example.
  • the mean particle size of the pigment other than component (c) is not particularly restricted so long as it can exhibit a function as a pigment, but it is preferably from 200 nm to 1000 nm, more preferably from 210 nm to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 220 nm to 300 nm, for example, to provide a more excellent coverage effect.
  • the mean particle size can be measured using a particle size distribution meter with an X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) or Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) or Laser Diffraction (LD).
  • the content of the pigment other than component (c) may be from 0.1 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.1 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.1 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment may also contain, in addition to these components, pH adjusters, chelating agents, antioxidants, antifading agents, preservatives, active ingredients, stabilizers and perfumes, added as appropriate in order to impart various effects.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment can be produced by the following steps, as an example.
  • Component (a), component (c), a pigment other than component (c) and other powders as necessary are mixed with component (d) and pulverized to obtain mixture A.
  • Component (e) and a liquid oil agent as necessary are mixed with component (b) to obtain mixture B.
  • Mixture B and other components as necessary are added to mixture A and the resulting mixture is pulverized.
  • the mixture obtained in (3) is packed into a container and press molded.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment has a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, a high coverage effect, a long-lasting effect and a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, it can be suitably used as a skin cosmetic, and is preferably used by application onto the skin (excluding the scalp), and more preferably onto the face, body and limbs.
  • the powder cosmetic composition of the embodiment can be used as a solid powder foundation, loose foundation, concealer, loose powder, pressed powder or makeup base, for example, although it is preferably used as a solid powder foundation.
  • Powder cosmetics with different components and contents according to Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following method. The units for the contents of each of the materials in Tables 1 and 2 are given in mass%.
  • mixing and pulverizing of components were carried out at room temperature.
  • Component (a), component (c) and a pigment other than component (c) were mixed with component (d) and pulverized to prepare mixture A.
  • Component (e) and a liquid oil agent were mixed with component (b) to prepare mixture B.
  • Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a powder cosmetic.
  • Evaluation scale for coverage effect A: Very excellent (e.g.: blemishes and pores completely concealed.) B: Excellent (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores visible to 1 or 2 individuals) C: Good (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores visible to 3 to 5 individuals) D: Fair (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 1 or 2 individuals) E: Poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 3 to 5 individuals) F: Very poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 6 to 10 individuals)
  • Evaluation scale for long-lasting effect A: Very excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic even after 8 hours) B: Excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 8 hours) C: Good (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 3 to 5 individuals after 8 hours) D: Fair (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 4 hours)
  • Evaluation scale for comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling A: Very excellent (e.g.: no powdery feel, absolutely no discomfort felt.) B: Excellent (e.g.: Slight powdery feel but no discomfort felt.) C: Good (e.g.: Powdery feel but no discomfort felt.) D: Fair (e.g.: Powdery feel and discomfort felt.) E: Poor (e.g.: Very powdery feel and discomfort felt.) F: Very poor (e.g.: Very powdery feel and high level of discomfort felt.)
  • Formulation Example 1 Solid powder foundation Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass)) 1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (20.0) 2. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (1.7) 3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.3) 4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.2) 5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (5.8) 6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.) 7. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (15.0) 8.
  • PDM-YFE Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron
  • Formulation Example 2 Solid powder foundation Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass)) 1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid, dextrin isostearate (Dextrin isostearate-treated SOLAVEIL XTP1) (20.0) 2. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated yellow iron oxide (1.7) 3. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated red iron oxide (0.3) 4. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated black iron oxide (0.2) 5. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated titanium dioxide (5.8) 6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S.
  • Formulation Example 3 Powder concealer Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass)) 1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL XTP1 (Croda)) (5.0) 2. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (6.8) 3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (1.2) 4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.8) 5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (23.2) 6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.) 7. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (15.0) 8.
  • PDM-YFE Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron
  • Formulation Example 4 Pressed powder Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass)) 1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (5.0) 2. Stearoyl glutamic acid-treated zinc oxide (5.0) 3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (0.5) 4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.1) 5. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.) 6. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (30.0) 7. Silica, lauroyl lysine (AMILON (Ikeda)) (7.5) 8.
  • PDM-YFE Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron
  • Formulation Example 5 High-SPF powder foundation Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass)) 1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (20.0) 2. Stearoyl glutamic acid-treated zinc oxide (10.0) 3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (1.7) 4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.3) 5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.2) 6. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (3.8) 7. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.) 8.
  • Synthetic fluorphlogopite (PDM-10 L (Topy)) (15.0) 9. Silica, lauroyl lysine (AMILON (Ikeda)) (5.0) 10. Microcrystalline cellulose (SUNSPHERE BIO SPF BOOSTER (Dow)) (5.0) 11. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (4.5) 12. Squalane (3.0) 13. Copernicia cerifera wax and Oryza sativa wax (SUNHANCER ECO SPF BOOSTER (Lubrizol)) (1.0) 14. Caprylyl glycol (0.5) 15. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A powder cosmetic composition comprising (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent, (b) an organic UV absorbing agent, (c) a hydrophobically treated iron oxide, (d) a filler and (e) a polyol, wherein the iron oxide is hydrophobically treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester, organic titanate compound or an N-acyl amino acid or its salt. A cosmetic method for care and/or makeup of skin.

Description

POWDER COSMETIC COMPOSITION
The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic composition.
Powder foundations are an important type of makeup product in high demand, particularly in Asian markets. With the particularly high levels of humidity in Asia, there is considerable demand for powder foundations having a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect and a high coverage effect, as well as a long-lasting effect and a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
Powder foundations intended for Asian markets have been proposed, such as a cosmetic product comprising a liquid UV filter and a polyalkyldioxane (JP2015-110529A), and a cosmetic product comprising an inorganic UV filter powder and pearlite (JP2015-110530A).
JP2015-110529A and JP2015-110530A mention that the cosmetic products therein disclosed have ultraviolet protection effects and long-lasting effects. While sufficient ultraviolet protection effects and high coverage effects are provided, however, no powder foundation products have yet been reported that can also provide a long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
It is an object of the invention to provide a completely novel powder cosmetic composition that exhibits a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, high coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The present invention provides a powder cosmetic composition comprising (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent, (b) an organic ultraviolet absorbing agent, (c) a hydrophobically treated iron oxide, (d) a filler and (e) a polyol, wherein the iron oxide is treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters, organic titanate compounds and N-acyl amino acids and their salts.
As used herein, "(a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent" may also be referred to hereunder simply as "component (a)", and the other components may be referred to in a similar manner.
The powder cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise two or more different (c) hydrophobically treated iron oxides. This can further improve the long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling. It can also result in a more excellent effect of prolonging the initial shade after application.
The mean particle size of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be from 100 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 200 nm, more preferably from 140 nm to 190 nm and even more preferably from 150 nm to 185 nm. This can further improve the ultraviolet protection effect while also providing a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The content of (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be 5 to 30 mass%, preferably from 10 to 25 mass%, more preferably from 13 to 22 mass% and the most preferably from 15 to 20 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition. This can further improve the ultraviolet protection effect while also providing a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. If these components are used in the inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent it will be possible to impart a more excellent ultraviolet protection effect.
The (b) organic ultraviolet absorbing agent in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be a salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agent, preferably ethylhexyl salicylate. If this component is used as the organic ultraviolet absorbing agent it will be possible to further improve both the ultraviolet protection effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be from 1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 2 to 8 mass%, more preferably from 3 to 6 mass% and the most preferably from 4 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
For the hydrophobic treatment agent for the iron oxide in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention, a dextrin fatty acid ester may be dextrin isostearate, an organic titanate compound may be isopropyltitanium triisostearate, and an N-acyl amino acid or its salt may be one or more selected from the group consisting of sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate. If the iron oxide is hydrophobically treated with these components it will be possible to obtain a more excellent high coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The total content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide may be from 0.2 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.2 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
The (d) filler in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be one or more selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite. By using such a component as the filler it is possible to provide a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The content of the (d) filler may be from 30 to 90 mass%, preferably from 40 to 85 mass%, more preferably from 50 to 80 mass% and the most preferably from 60 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
The (e) polyol in the powder cosmetic composition of the invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. By using such a component as the polyol it is possible to provide a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
The content of (e) polyol may be from 0.1 to 5 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 mass% and more preferably from 0.5 to 2 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 1.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
In one aspect, the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be ethylhexyl salicylate, the (c) iron oxide is treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin isostearate, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate, the (d) filler may be at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite; and the (e) polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; and the mean particle size of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 100 nm to 200 nm. In another aspect, the content of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be from 5 to 30 mass% based on the total mass, the content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent may be from 1 to 10 mass% based on the total mass, the content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide may be from 0.2 to 40 mass% based on the total mass, the content of the (d) filler may be from 30 to 90 mass% based on the total mass; and the content of the (e) polyol may be from 0.1 to 5 mass% based on the total mass; and the total content of (a) to (e) does not exceed 100 mass %. The present invention also provides a cosmetic method for care and/or makeup of skin, wherein the method includes applying a cosmetic composition of the invention onto the skin or lips.
According to the invention it is possible to provide a powder cosmetic composition that exhibits a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, high coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling.
Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, with the understanding that these embodiments are in no way limitative on the invention.
Inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent.
The term "inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent" as used herein means an inorganic compound (inorganic powder) that increases the shield property against ultraviolet rays by scattering and/or reflection. Examples of inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium oxide. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are more preferred among these for a superior ultraviolet protection effect, with titanium dioxide being even more preferred. A single inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The mean particle size of component (a) is not particularly restricted so long as a scattering and/or reflecting effect is exhibited for ultraviolet rays, but it may be from 100 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 200 nm, more preferably from 140 nm to 190 nm and even more preferably from 150 nm to 185 nm to further increase the ultraviolet scattering effect. The mean particle size can be measured using a particle size distribution meter with an X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) or Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) or Laser Diffraction (LD). Examples of inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents with mean particle sizes in this range include SOLAVEIL XTP1 and SOLAVEIL HTP1 (products of Croda) as titanium dioxides, and ZnO-S05 (product of Sumitomo Osaka Cement) as a zinc oxide.
The inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent of this embodiment may be one without surface treatment, or it may have a partial or total hydrophobically treated surface. The hydrophobic treatment may be carried out by a common method using a hydrophobic treatment agent such as a fatty acid, dextrin fatty acid ester, N-acyl amino acid or its salt, for example. Examples of hydrophobically treated inorganic ultraviolet scattering agents include titanium dioxide treated with alumina and stearic acid (trade name: SOLAVEIL XTP1 by Croda).
The content of component (a) may be from 5 to 30 mass%, preferably from 10 to 25 mass%, more preferably from 13 to 22 mass% and the most preferably from 15 to 20 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Organic ultraviolet absorbing agent
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (b) an organic ultraviolet absorbing agent.
As used herein, "organic ultraviolet absorbing agent" means an organic compound that increases the ultraviolet protection effect by absorbing ultraviolet rays. Examples of organic ultraviolet absorbing agents include cinnamic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; paraaminobenzoic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as amyl paradimethylaminobenzoate and ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate; salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate; and phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid. Salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorbing agents are preferred among these for a superior ultraviolet protection effect, with ethylhexyl salicylate being more preferred. A single organic ultraviolet absorbing agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The content of component (b) may be from 1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 2 to 8 mass%, more preferably from 3 to 6 mass% and the most preferably from 4 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Hydrophobically-treated iron oxide
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (c) a hydrophobically treated iron oxide. The iron oxide is treated with one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters, organic titanate compounds and N-acyl amino acids and their salts. This improves dispersibility of the pigment (iron oxide) in the composition and increases adhesion with skin, to provide both a high coverage effect and long-lasting effect.
Examples for the dextrin fatty acid ester include dextrin isostearate, dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Isopropyltitanium triisostearate is an example of an organic titanate compound. Examples of N-acyl amino acids and their salts include N-lauroylaspartic acid salts such as sodium N-lauroylaspartate; N-lauroylglutamic acid salts such as sodium N-lauroylglutamate; and N-stearoylglutamic acid salts such as disodium N-stearoylglutamate. Hydrophobic treatment with dextrin isostearate, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, N-lauroylaspartic acid salts, N-lauroylglutamic acid salt or N-stearoylglutamic acid salts are preferred among these to provide a more excellent high coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, with dextrin isostearate being more preferred for hydrophobic treatment. The hydrophobic treatment may be carried out using these hydrophobic treatment agents according to a common method.
Either a single type or two or more types of hydrophobically treated iron oxide may be included in the powder cosmetic composition, but two or more types are preferred to allow further improvement in the long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, as well as to provide a more excellent effect of prolonging the initial shade after application. The phrase "two or more" used here may mean (i) two or more of the same iron oxide (such as (red) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by different methods, (ii) two or more different types of iron oxides (such as (red) iron oxide and (black) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by the same method, or (iii) two or more different types of iron oxides (such as (red) iron oxide and (black) iron oxide) hydrophobically treated by different methods.
The content of component (c) may be from 0.2 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.2 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Filler
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (d) a filler.
Examples of fillers include mica, silica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, talc, sericite, kaolin, cellulose and starch. Mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite, and their combinations, are preferred to obtain a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling with the powder cosmetic composition. Component (d) may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The content of component (d) may be from 30 to 90 mass%, preferably from 40 to 85 mass%, more preferably from 50 to 80 mass% and the most preferably from 60 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Polyol
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises (e) a polyol.
Examples of polyols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol), 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, sorbitol, xylitol and mannitol. Preferred among these are 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol), caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and their mixtures, and more preferably 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures, to allow a more excellent comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling. Component (e) may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The content of component (e) may be from 0.1 to 5 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 mass%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 1.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Liquid oil agent
The powder cosmetic composition of the invention may further include a liquid oil agent.
As used herein, "liquid oil agent" refers to an oil agent that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atm). The melting point of the liquid oil agent is preferably lower than 25°C at 1 atm, as measured by a known method, particularly "Quasi Drug Raw Material Standards, Method 3".
Examples of liquid oil agents include hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, vegetable squalane, liquid paraffins, light liquid isoparaffins and alkanes (such as C13-15, C15-19 and C18-21 alkanes); ester oils such as coco-caprylate/caprate and caprylic/capric triglyceride; and silicone oils such as dimethicone and methyltrimethicone. Preferred among these are squalane, C15-19 alkanes, coco-caprylate/caprate, and mixtures of the same. A single liquid oil agent may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The content of the liquid oil agent may be from 0.1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 7 mass%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 3 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Pigment other than component (c)
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment may further include a pigment other than component (c) for an even higher coverage effect.
Examples of pigments other than component (c) include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium oxide. Titanium dioxide is preferred among these for a more excellent coverage effect. The pigment other than component (c) may be a single compound used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
The pigment other than component (c) may be one without surface treatment, or it may have a partial or total hydrophobically treated surface. The hydrophobic treatment may be carried out by a common method using a hydrophobic treatment agent such as a fatty acid, dextrin fatty acid ester, N-acyl amino acid or its salt, for example.
The mean particle size of the pigment other than component (c) is not particularly restricted so long as it can exhibit a function as a pigment, but it is preferably from 200 nm to 1000 nm, more preferably from 210 nm to 700 nm, and even more preferably from 220 nm to 300 nm, for example, to provide a more excellent coverage effect. The mean particle size can be measured using a particle size distribution meter with an X-Ray Disc Centrifuge (XRDC) or Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) or Laser Diffraction (LD).
The content of the pigment other than component (c) may be from 0.1 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.1 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.1 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
Other optional components
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment may also contain, in addition to these components, pH adjusters, chelating agents, antioxidants, antifading agents, preservatives, active ingredients, stabilizers and perfumes, added as appropriate in order to impart various effects.
Production method
The powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment can be produced by the following steps, as an example.
(1) Component (a), component (c), a pigment other than component (c) and other powders as necessary, are mixed with component (d) and pulverized to obtain mixture A.
(2) Component (e) and a liquid oil agent as necessary are mixed with component (b) to obtain mixture B.
(3) Mixture B and other components as necessary are added to mixture A and the resulting mixture is pulverized.
(4) The mixture obtained in (3) is packed into a container and press molded.
Since the powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment has a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect, a high coverage effect, a long-lasting effect and a comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, it can be suitably used as a skin cosmetic, and is preferably used by application onto the skin (excluding the scalp), and more preferably onto the face, body and limbs. The powder cosmetic composition of the embodiment can be used as a solid powder foundation, loose foundation, concealer, loose powder, pressed powder or makeup base, for example, although it is preferably used as a solid powder foundation.
The present invention will now be explained in specific detail through the following Examples, with the understanding that the invention is not limited by the Examples.
(Test Example 1: Powder cosmetics)
(1) Preparation of powder cosmetics
Powder cosmetics with different components and contents according to Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following method. The units for the contents of each of the materials in Tables 1 and 2 are given in mass%. In the following, mixing and pulverizing of components were carried out at room temperature.
Component (a), component (c) and a pigment other than component (c) were mixed with component (d) and pulverized to prepare mixture A.
Component (e) and a liquid oil agent were mixed with component (b) to prepare mixture B.
Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a powder cosmetic.
(2) Evaluation of ultraviolet protection effect
The ultraviolet protection effects of each of the prepared powder cosmetics were evaluated by an in vivo SPF measurement test. The in vivo SPF measurement test was carried out with reference to ISO24444, and the average measurement value by 3 participants was recorded as the SPF value. An SPF value of 20 or greater was judged to be a sufficient ultraviolet protection effect. The results are shown in Table 3.
(3) Organoleptic evaluation
Each prepared powder cosmetic was evaluated for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling, by a single-use test on skin by an evaluation panel of 10 cosmetic experts (25 to 55 years of age) of the organization to which the present inventors belong. Specifically, a panel of 10 cosmetic experts applied each powder cosmetic onto the face using a puff, and conducted an evaluation based on the scale shown below. For the long-lasting effect, the condition 4 hours and 8 hours after application was evaluated based on the scale shown below. The term "blemish" refers to a portion of the skin that appears darker than the surrounding area due to deposition of pigments such as melanin present on the surface or inside the skin. For this test it is assumed that the cosmetic is applied onto the skin in the morning and the condition is evaluated in the evening. Cosmetics receiving an evaluation of A to C were judged to have acceptable properties. The results are shown in Tables 4 and 5.
Evaluation scale for coverage effect
A: Very excellent (e.g.: blemishes and pores completely concealed.)
B: Excellent (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores visible to 1 or 2 individuals)
C: Good (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores visible to 3 to 5 individuals)
D: Fair (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 1 or 2 individuals)
E: Poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 3 to 5 individuals)
F: Very poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores visible to 6 to 10 individuals)
Evaluation scale for long-lasting effect
A: Very excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic even after 8 hours)
B: Excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 8 hours)
C: Good (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 3 to 5 individuals after 8 hours)
D: Fair (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 4 hours)
E: Poor (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 3 to 5 individuals after 4 hours)
F: Very poor (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 6 to 10 individuals after 4 hours)
Evaluation scale for comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling
A: Very excellent (e.g.: no powdery feel, absolutely no discomfort felt.)
B: Excellent (e.g.: Slight powdery feel but no discomfort felt.)
C: Good (e.g.: Powdery feel but no discomfort felt.)
D: Fair (e.g.: Powdery feel and discomfort felt.)
E: Poor (e.g.: Very powdery feel and discomfort felt.)
F: Very poor (e.g.: Very powdery feel and high level of discomfort felt.)
(4) Stability evaluation
(Dropping test)
Press-molded powder cosmetics were each dropped three times from a fixed height, and molded products that did not crack were evaluated as "A" while those that cracked were evaluated as "F". The results are shown in Tables 4 and 5.
(Rubbing test)
After rubbing the pressed surface of each press-molded powder cosmetic back and forth 10 times with a finger, the powder cosmetic was taken up with a puff, and products that exhibited no caking were evaluated as "A", those that exhibited light caking but could be taken with the puff were evaluated as "B", and those that exhibited heavy caking and could not be taken with the puff were evaluated as "F". The results are shown in Tables 4 and 5.
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Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000002
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000003
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000004
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000005
Formulation Example 1: Solid powder foundation
Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass))
1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (20.0)
2. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (1.7)
3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.3)
4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.2)
5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (5.8)
6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.)
7. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (15.0)
8. Synthetic fluorphlogopite (PDM-20 L (Topy)) (15.0)
9. Silica (GODD BALL G-6C (Suzuki Yushi)) (5.0)
10. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (4.5)
11. Squalane (1.5)
12. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)
13. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)
14. Ethylhexylglycerin (0.2)
(Production method)
Components 1 to 9 were mixed and pulverized to prepare mixture A. Components 10 to 14 were mixed to prepare mixture B. Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a solid powder foundation.
(Evaluation)
When the solid powder foundation of Formulation Example 1 was subjected to organoleptic evaluation for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling by the same methods as Test Example 1, all of its properties were found to be acceptable. When the solid powder foundation of Formulation Example 1 was subjected to stability evaluation by the same methods as Test Example 1, both evaluation scores were "A".
Formulation Example 2: Solid powder foundation
Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass))
1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid, dextrin isostearate (Dextrin isostearate-treated SOLAVEIL XTP1) (20.0)
2. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated yellow iron oxide (1.7)
3. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated red iron oxide (0.3)
4. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated black iron oxide (0.2)
5. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid-treated titanium dioxide (5.8)
6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.)
7. Synthetic fluorphlogopite (PDM-10 L (Topy)) (25.0)
8. Silica (SUNSPHERE H-33 (AGC)) (5.0)
9. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (4.5)
10. C15-19 alkane (2.0)
11. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)
12. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)
(Production method)
Components 1 to 8 were mixed and pulverized to prepare mixture A. Components 9 to 12 were mixed to prepare mixture B. Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a solid powder foundation.
(Evaluation)
When the solid powder foundation of Formulation Example 2 was subjected to organoleptic evaluation for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling by the same methods as Test Example 1, all of its properties were found to be acceptable. When the solid powder foundation of Formulation Example 2 was subjected to stability evaluation by the same methods as Test Example 1, both evaluation scores were "A".
Formulation Example 3: Powder concealer
Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass))
1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL XTP1 (Croda)) (5.0)
2. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (6.8)
3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (1.2)
4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.8)
5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (23.2)
6. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.)
7. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (15.0)
8. Silica (GODD BALL G-6C (Suzuki Yushi)) (5.0)
9. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (3.0)
10. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (2.0)
11. Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (1.0)
12. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)
13. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)
(Production method)
Components 1 to 9 were mixed and pulverized to prepare mixture A. Components 10 to 14 were mixed to prepare mixture B. Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a powder concealer.
(Evaluation)
When the powder concealer of Formulation Example 3 was subjected to organoleptic evaluation for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling by the same methods as Test Example 1, all of its properties were found to be acceptable. When the powder concealer of Formulation Example 3 was subjected to stability evaluation by the same methods as Test Example 1, both evaluation scores were "A".
Formulation Example 4: Pressed powder
Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass))
1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (5.0)
2. Stearoyl glutamic acid-treated zinc oxide (5.0)
3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (0.5)
4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.1)
5. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.)
6. Synthetic fluorphlogopite iron (PDM-YFE (Topy)) (30.0)
7. Silica, lauroyl lysine (AMILON (Ikeda)) (7.5)
8. Stearoyl glutamic acid-treated cellulose (7.5)
9. Pearl pigment (5.0)
10. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (3.0)
11. Squalane (3.0)
12. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)
13. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)
14. Ethylhexylglycerin (0.2)
(Production method)
Components 1 to 9 were mixed and pulverized to prepare mixture A. Components 10 to 14 were mixed to prepare mixture B. Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a pressed powder.
(Evaluation)
When the pressed powder of Formulation Example 4 was subjected to organoleptic evaluation for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling by the same methods as Test Example 1, all of its properties were found to be acceptable. When the pressed powder of Formulation Example 4 was subjected to stability evaluation by the same methods as Test Example 1, both evaluation scores were "A".
Formulation Example 5: High-SPF powder foundation
Ingredients (Trade name (if applicable)) (Blending ratio (% by mass))
1. Titanium dioxide, alumina, stearic acid (SOLAVEIL HTP1 (Croda)) (20.0)
2. Stearoyl glutamic acid-treated zinc oxide (10.0)
3. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary yellow iron oxide (1.7)
4. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary red iron oxide (0.3)
5. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary black iron oxide (0.2)
6. 5% Dextrin isostearate treated pigmentary titanium dioxide (3.8)
7. Mica (SERICITE M (K.S. Pearl)) (q.s.)
8. Synthetic fluorphlogopite (PDM-10 L (Topy)) (15.0)
9. Silica, lauroyl lysine (AMILON (Ikeda)) (5.0)
10. Microcrystalline cellulose (SUNSPHERE BIO SPF BOOSTER (Dow)) (5.0)
11. Ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL 587 (Ashland)) (4.5)
12. Squalane (3.0)
13. Copernicia cerifera wax and Oryza sativa wax (SUNHANCER ECO SPF BOOSTER (Lubrizol)) (1.0)
14. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)
15. 1,2-Hexanediol (0.5)
(Production method)
Components 1 to 10 were mixed and pulverized to prepare mixture A. Components 11 to 15 were mixed to prepare mixture B. Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was pulverized then packed into a container and press molded to obtain a high SPF powder foundation.
(Evaluation)
When the high SPF powder foundation of Formulation Example 5 was subjected to organoleptic evaluation for coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable skin finish without powdery feeling by the same methods as Test Example 1, all of its properties were found to be acceptable. When the high SPF powder foundation of Formulation Example 5 was subjected to stability evaluation by the same methods as Test Example 1, both evaluation scores were "A".

Claims (17)

  1. A powder cosmetic composition comprising:
    (a) an inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent,
    (b) an organic UV absorbing agent,
    (c) a hydrophobically-treated iron oxide,
    (d) a filler and
    (e) a polyol,
    wherein the iron oxide (c) is hydrophobically treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid esters, organic titanate compounds and N-acyl amino acids and their salts.
  2. The powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is dextrin isostearate, the organic titanate compound is isopropyltitanium triisostearate, and the N-acyl amino acid or its salt is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate.
  3. The powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide is from 0.2 to 40 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 30 mass%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20 mass% and the most preferably from 0.2 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  4. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which comprises two or more hydrophobically-treated iron oxides.
  5. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide.
  6. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the mean particle size of the inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 100 nm to 200 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 200 nm, more preferably from 140 nm to 190 nm and even more preferably from 150 nm to 185 nm.
  7. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 5 to 30 mass%, preferably from 10 to 25 mass%, more preferably from 13 to 22 mass% and the most preferably from 15 to 20 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  8. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (d) filler is at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite.
  9. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the content of the (d) filler is from 30 to 90 mass%, preferably from 40 to 85 mass%, more preferably from 50 to 80 mass% and the most preferably from 60 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  10. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the (b) organic UV absorbing agent is a salicylic acid-based UV absorbing agent.
  11. The powder cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the salicylic acid-based UV absorbing agent is ethylhexyl salicylate.
  12. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent is from 1 to 10 mass%, preferably from 2 to 8 mass%, more preferably from 3 to 6 mass% and the most preferably from 4 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  13. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the (e) polyol is at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin.
  14. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the content of (e) polyol is from 0.1 to 5 mass%, preferably from 0.2 to 3 mass%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2 mass% and the most preferably from 1 to 1.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.
  15. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14,
    wherein the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide;
    the (b) organic UV absorbing agent is ethylhexyl salicylate;
    the (c) iron oxide is treated with at least one type of compound selected from the group consisting of dextrin isostearate, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, sodium N-lauroylaspartate, sodium N-lauroylglutamate and disodium N-stearoylglutamate;
    the (d) filler is at least one selected from the group consisting of mica, silica and synthetic fluorphlogopite; and
    the (e) polyol is at least one selected from the group consisting of 1,2-hexanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin; and
    wherein the mean particle size of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 100 nm to 200 nm.
  16. The powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15,
    wherein the content of the (a) inorganic ultraviolet scattering agent is from 5 to 30 mass% based on the total mass of the composition;
    the content of the (b) organic UV absorbing agent is from 1 to 10 mass% based on the total mass of the composition;
    the content of the (c) hydrophobically-treated iron oxide is from 0.2 to 40 mass% based on the total mass of the composition;
    the content of the (d) filler is from 30 to 90 mass% based on the total mass; and
    the content of the (e) polyol is from 0.1 to 5 mass% based on the total mass of the composition; and
    wherein the total content of (a) to (e) does not exceed 100 mass %.
  17. A cosmetic method for care and/or makeup of skin, wherein the method includes applying a powder cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to skin.
PCT/JP2022/044619 2022-12-02 2022-12-02 Powder cosmetic composition WO2024116413A1 (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2015110529A (en) 2013-12-06 2015-06-18 ロレアル Powdery cosmetic composition
JP2015110530A (en) 2013-12-06 2015-06-18 ロレアル Powdery cosmetic composition
US20170304658A1 (en) * 2014-08-28 2017-10-26 L'oreal Gel/gel composition comprising a uv-screening agent
US20190254938A1 (en) * 2016-11-07 2019-08-22 Nisshinbo Holdings Inc. Skin cosmetics
JP2020164448A (en) * 2019-03-29 2020-10-08 株式会社コーセー Oily cosmetic
US20220273532A1 (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-09-01 Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Producing method of cosmetics and cosmetics

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2015110529A (en) 2013-12-06 2015-06-18 ロレアル Powdery cosmetic composition
JP2015110530A (en) 2013-12-06 2015-06-18 ロレアル Powdery cosmetic composition
US20170304658A1 (en) * 2014-08-28 2017-10-26 L'oreal Gel/gel composition comprising a uv-screening agent
US20190254938A1 (en) * 2016-11-07 2019-08-22 Nisshinbo Holdings Inc. Skin cosmetics
JP2020164448A (en) * 2019-03-29 2020-10-08 株式会社コーセー Oily cosmetic
US20220273532A1 (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-09-01 Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Producing method of cosmetics and cosmetics

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