WO2023247574A1 - Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol and at least two polysaccharides, use and process using the composition - Google Patents
Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol and at least two polysaccharides, use and process using the composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023247574A1 WO2023247574A1 PCT/EP2023/066697 EP2023066697W WO2023247574A1 WO 2023247574 A1 WO2023247574 A1 WO 2023247574A1 EP 2023066697 W EP2023066697 W EP 2023066697W WO 2023247574 A1 WO2023247574 A1 WO 2023247574A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 286
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
- 229930186217 Glycolipid Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- HVCOBJNICQPDBP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[3-[3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4-(3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-methyloxan-2-yl)oxyoxan-2-yl]oxydecanoyloxy]decanoic acid;hydrate Chemical compound O.OC1C(OC(CC(=O)OC(CCCCCCC)CC(O)=O)CCCCCCC)OC(C)C(O)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(C)O1 HVCOBJNICQPDBP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 56
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- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 45
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- -1 heptenyl Chemical group 0.000 claims description 40
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- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
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- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
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- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- FEBUJFMRSBAMES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[(2-{[3,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-phosphanyloxan-4-yl]oxy}-3,5-dihydroxy-6-({[3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy}methyl)oxan-4-yl)oxy]-3,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl phosphinite Chemical group OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(OC2C(C(OP)C(O)C(CO)O2)O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(CO)OC(P)C2O)O)O1 FEBUJFMRSBAMES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- 125000003493 decenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
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- JXNPEDYJTDQORS-HZJYTTRNSA-N (9Z,12Z)-octadecadien-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCCO JXNPEDYJTDQORS-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
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- FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-{[2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxy-6-(phosphanyloxy)oxan-3-yl]oxy}-4,5-dihydroxy-3-phosphanyloxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound O1C(C(O)=O)C(P)C(O)C(O)C1OC1C(C(O)=O)OC(OP)C(O)C1O FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
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- 244000303965 Cyamopsis psoralioides Species 0.000 description 6
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- SUMDYPCJJOFFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N isethionic acid Chemical class OCCS(O)(=O)=O SUMDYPCJJOFFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000959 isobutyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N isododecane Natural products CC(C)(C)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopentadecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940060384 isostearyl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003410 keratolytic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002576 ketones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003077 lignite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940049918 linoleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960004488 linolenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010469 macadamia oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- QWDJLDTYWNBUKE-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium bicarbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].OC([O-])=O.OC([O-])=O QWDJLDTYWNBUKE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000002370 magnesium bicarbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000022 magnesium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium carbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-]C([O-])=O ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000001095 magnesium carbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000021 magnesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000002960 margaryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000003061 melanogenesis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- PHLASVAENYNAOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl-bis[[methyl(diphenyl)silyl]oxy]-phenylsilane Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1[Si](C)(C=1C=CC=CC=1)O[Si](C=1C=CC=CC=1)(C)O[Si](C)(C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 PHLASVAENYNAOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003094 microcapsule Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940016286 microcrystalline cellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- VYQNWZOUAUKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N monobenzone Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1OCC1=CC=CC=C1 VYQNWZOUAUKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UTTVXKGNTWZECK-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n-dimethyloctadecan-1-amine oxide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)[O-] UTTVXKGNTWZECK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229950006780 n-acetylglucosamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940094933 n-dodecane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000001196 nonadecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- GSGDTSDELPUTKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonoxybenzene Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 GSGDTSDELPUTKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001400 nonyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- CNNRPFQICPFDPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N octacosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO CNNRPFQICPFDPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005474 octanoate group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229960002446 octanoic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000010494 opalescence Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002892 organic cations Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000013808 oxidized starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000037361 pathway Effects 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- 125000002958 pentadecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001147 pentyl group Chemical group C(CCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 230000008447 perception Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229960004624 perflexane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZJIJAJXFLBMLCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluorohexane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F ZJIJAJXFLBMLCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NJCBUSHGCBERSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluoropentane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F NJCBUSHGCBERSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenylbenzene Natural products C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphoric acid Substances OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004437 phosphorous atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920001515 polyalkylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920000166 polytrimethylene carbonate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005033 polyvinylidene chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010491 poppyseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920001592 potato starch Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940088417 precipitated calcium carbonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- XLCIFRJORZNGEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 2-[dodecanoyl(methyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC(=O)OC(C)C XLCIFRJORZNGEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010493 quinoa oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008165 rice bran oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940100486 rice starch Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000004469 siloxy group Chemical group [SiH3]O* 0.000 description 1
- 235000010413 sodium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000638 solvent extraction Methods 0.000 description 1
- HIWPGCMGAMJNRG-RTPHMHGBSA-N sophorose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)OC(O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 HIWPGCMGAMJNRG-RTPHMHGBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001384 succinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940008424 tetradecamethylhexasiloxane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrafluoroethene Chemical group FC(F)=C(F)F BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011200 topical administration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000647 trehalose group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000002889 tridecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001069 triethyl citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethyl citrate Natural products CCOC(=O)C(O)(C(=O)OCC)C(=O)OCC VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013769 triethyl citrate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000002023 trifluoromethyl group Chemical group FC(F)(F)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000000725 trifluoropropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C(F)(F)F 0.000 description 1
- 235000001019 trigonella foenum-graecum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940117985 trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000556533 uncultured marine bacterium Species 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000004417 unsaturated alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003357 wound healing promoting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000005253 yeast cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- the present invention is directed towards proposing a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and at least two different polysaccharide polymers.
- the invention also relates to the use of a composition for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition as described previously.
- a skin blackhead results from the process of comedogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units of sebaceous follicle type, which are predominantly distributed on the face. From a clinical perspective, a skin blackhead is thus an open comedone (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair canal, sebum retention and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous duct. Hypercornification is considered to result in sebum retention and in the accumulation of cell debris.
- Some of these solutions are based more particularly on treating blackheads with an active agent that is capable of preventing, altering or eliminating the blackheads.
- an active agent that is capable of preventing, altering or eliminating the blackheads.
- active agents that are capable of dissolving the lipids constituting the blackheads, such as the alkyl lactate derivatives described in patent US 4 540 567, the lipase enzyme, described in patent application US 2006/051339, or else neutralized fatty acids as described in patent application EP 3 150 187.
- glycolipids and notably dirhamnolipids, inhibit the formation of skin blackheads, probably by intervening in the process of oxidation of L- DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine).
- L-DOPA is involved in the very complex melanogenesis mechanism. More specifically, the oxidation of L-DOPA, promoted by the microbial activity present in the comedone, is expressed by a colouring effect probably of dopachrome type, the latter being a coloured intermediate of the melanin biosynthesis pathway.
- the dirhamnolipids appear to impair the formation of the product of the oxidation reaction in the comedones and thus inhibit their black or brown colouration.
- Such compounds have already been used in cleansing compositions, described in patent application WO 2020/114793, notably for cleansing cosmetic residues, undesirable microorganisms or the body’s own excretions such as sebum.
- glycolipids in cosmetic compositions, while retaining satisfactory sensory results, and with the least possible environmental impact.
- compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands notably regarding the environment.
- the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
- the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by combining specific polymers with glycolipids, in the presence of a particular fatty alcohol, it is possible to obtain effective, stable, fluid and opalescent compositions with good cosmetic properties.
- This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
- the invention also relates to a skincare process, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a composition as defined previously.
- composition according to the invention is cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.
- composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
- composition refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and the integuments.
- the composition according to the invention is non- therapeutic.
- a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid.
- composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids.
- glycolipids are used, they may be identical or different.
- glycolipid means a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.
- the glycolipid(s) may be chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
- the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from rhamnolipids.
- the composition comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially comprises at least one rhamnolipid.
- R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
- - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
- the glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.
- the appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203).
- the glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using ethyl ether or a dichloromethane/methanol or chloroform/methanol mixture.
- glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):
- R 3 and R 4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
- R 7 represents a hydrogen atom
- R 8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or R 7 and R 8 together form a lactone ring.
- Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, in which R 7 represents a hydrogen atom and R 8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or in its lactone form, in which a lactone ring is formed between R 7 and R 8 , as indicated in formula (III):
- the sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells.
- the fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
- sophorolipids examples include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.
- glycolipid(s) may be trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV):
- R 9 , R 10 and R 11 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
- the glycolipid(s) may be cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V):
- R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation
- R 12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
- R 13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group
- R 14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
- the cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.
- the glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.
- composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.
- Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid) linked via a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of P-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to each other via an ester bond.
- the rhamnolipids are chosen from mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI) below: [Chem 6] in which:
- - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
- - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0,
- - Ri and R2 independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
- formula (VI) protects monorhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects dirhamnolipids.
- composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid.
- composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ;
- - Ri and R2 independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
- the glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.
- the salts of the dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereof with an organic or inorganic cation and notably with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,
- the solvated forms of the dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and
- alkyl denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group containing a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.
- composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ;
- the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three dirhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one monorhamnolipid.
- - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also referred to as diRL-ClOClO, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
- VI dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also referred to as diRL-ClOClO, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
- the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
- composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
- Ri represents a -(CJb ⁇ CHs radical and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
- heteropolysaccharide means a polysaccharide formed from different monosaccharides.
- a homopolysaccharide is a polysaccharide formed from a single monosaccharide.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
- the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms.
- heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms may be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, gellan gums and mixtures thereof.
- Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).
- Xanthan gums are sold, for example, under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name SatiaxaneTM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NovaxanTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.
- Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.
- Gellan gum is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.
- the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae.
- the heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae may be chosen from alginate-based compounds.
- alginate-based compounds with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20 000 to 250 000.
- alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be sold under the names Kelcosol, SatialgineTM, CecalgumTM or AlgogelTM by the company Cargill Products, under the name ProtanalTM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.
- acacia gum galactomannans such as guar gum and derivatives thereof, fenugreek gum, tara gum and locust bean gum, glucomannans (konjac gum), LM and HM pectins and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- the unmodified nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aquaion.
- the chemically modified locust bean gums may be chosen from the cationic locust bean gums sold, for example, under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.
- Catinal CLB locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
- composition comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
- the composition according to the invention comprises the polysaccharide polymer(s) different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
- Such a polymer may notably be chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides.
- Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.
- Dextran is sold, for example, under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co.
- Dextran sulfate is notably sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.
- Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name ActigumTM CS by the company Cargill.
- the polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides is chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, in particular from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, and preferably is scleroglucan gum.
- the composition according to the invention comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
- the non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides isolated from algae, in particular chosen from galactans, furcellaran and mixtures thereof.
- the galactans may be chosen from agar or carrageenans.
- the carrageenans are notably sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names SatiagelTM and SatiagumTM, and by the company CP- Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
- Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar- Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.
- Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.
- the non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular homogeneous homopolysaccharides and derivatives thereof.
- These polymers may notably be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.
- Celluloses that may notably be mentioned include quaternized alkylhydroxy ethylcelluloses containing Cs-Cso fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C is alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
- Quatrisoft LM 200 Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A
- Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B C12 alkyl
- Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 Cis alkyl
- celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, notably of C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
- HM-1500 polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether
- the celluloses and derivatives may also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aquaion® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aquaion.
- Avicel® microcrystalline cellulose, MCC
- Cekol carboxymethylcellulose
- the fructosan may be chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (notably dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).
- Inulin is sold, for example, under the name BeneoTM inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.
- non-starchy homopolysaccharides mention may also be made of chitin (poly- N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, P(l,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy -D-glucose).
- the polysaccharide polymer different from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from starchy polysaccharides.
- the native starches are sold, for example, under the names C*AmilogelTM, Cargill GelTM, C* GelTM, Cargill GumTM, DryGelTM and C*Pharm GelTM by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.
- distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate may also be chosen from distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava di starch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava di starch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
- oxidized starches examples include the products sold under the name C*size from the company Cargill.
- Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:
- composition according to the invention also comprises at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 18 carbon atoms.
- the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (dodecan-l-ol), 2 -butyl- 1 -octanol, 2-hexyl-l -decanol and mixtures thereof.
- the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least oleyl alcohol.
- the composition according to the invention comprises the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
- thermo means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
- They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
- composition may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile fluoro oil.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-0 group.
- volatile oils for the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oi means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10‘ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made notably of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- Cs-Ci6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- n-dodecane C12
- n-tetradecane C14
- the undecanetridecane mixture mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof
- Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
- Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
- Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
- Non-volatile oils The term ⁇ non-volalile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10' 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
- the non-volatile oils may notably be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
- Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology.
- nonvolatile alkane means a hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oil which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a vapour pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of 11 March, 1992: “Any organic compound having, at a temperature of 293.15 K, a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”.
- VOC Volatile Organic Compound
- the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart LI 9 from SEPPIC, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil,
- cocoyl caprylate/caprate for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicapryl ether
- synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1COOR2
- Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
- R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Wi
- composition according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.
- the other fatty substances that may be present in the composition are, for example: solid fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes; fatty alcohol waxes such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil or B
- the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, more particularly a plant butter.
- the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is devoid (free) of silicone oil(s).
- the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
- composition according to the invention may comprise from 50% to 99.5% by weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
- a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
- the polyol may, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.
- composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of polyol(s), preferably from 3% to 8% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
- anhydrous composition means a composition with a water (or aqueous phase) content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition, or alternatively even less than 0.5% and is notably free of water.
- the water mentioned includes the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
- the surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
- composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
- mixed esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (INCI name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (INCI name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
- composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
- the cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as (Ci2-3o-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl)ammonium halides for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.
- alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate
- ammonium salts such as (Ci2-3o-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl)ammonium halides for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodi acetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
- amphoteric surfactants for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodi acetate
- amine oxides such as stearamine oxide
- silicone surfactants for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s), preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
- anionic surfactants preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular chosen from those conventionally used in care compositions.
- fillers is intended to denote colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
- these fillers are used in appropriate contents and under appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.
- talc talc
- mica silica
- silica kaolin
- C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles poly-P-alanine powder and polyethylene powder
- lauroyllysine modified or unmodified starches
- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles boron nitride
- hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, metal oxides such as aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsul
- micronized waxes in particular natural waxes. Mention may notably be made of the carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by the company Lubrizol. Such additional micronized waxes notably allow the properties to be improved when the composition is applied to the skin.
- the filler when it is present, is a silicon-free filler.
- the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular chosen from modified or unmodified starches.
- the starch molecules that are suitable for use as fillers according to the present invention may originate from all plant sources of starch, notably cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, they may be com, rice, rice husk, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca starches.
- the composition according to the invention comprises native tapioca starch powder, rice husk powder, or mixtures thereof, and more preferentially native tapioca starch powder.
- the modified starch may be a (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch.
- the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches.
- the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by the company Roquette.
- the filler(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, notably between 0.2% and 7.0% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.
- additional active agent means a compound which has, by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent in order to activate it, a biological activity which may in particular be:
- the additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution which may be gelled
- a dispersion of the lotion type which may be a two-phase dispersion, an oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, or else a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, notably using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type.
- the composition may be of more or less fluid liquid consistency.
- composition considered according to the invention differs from compositions having an essentially detergent purpose with regard to the skin, hair and/or mucous membranes, such as soaps, shampoos and shower gels for washing and/or cleansing.
- this composition is intended for topical application and preferably is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
- an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application.
- composition according to the invention is intended to be applied to the skin.
- the skin is the skin of the face and/or of the body, in particular of the face and/or of the hands, preferably of the face, and more particularly of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
- the pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably ranging from 4 to 7, better still ranging from 4.5 to 6.5.
- composition according to the invention may also be added to the composition according to the invention.
- the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step in which a composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin materials.
- the cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.
- the cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
- the topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.
- the application is repeated, for example, 1 to 2 times daily for one or more days and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, if appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
- the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
- composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been cleansed beforehand, for example using an appropriate soap, and/or freed beforehand of blackheads, for example using an adhesive patch or a mechanical action.
- composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.
- the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising: a) a step of topical application to the skin of a washing solution; b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, notably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion; and c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b), it being possible for steps b) and c) to be performed simultaneously or successively.
- the sensory effect is evaluated by scoring the performance of the composition according to tackiness on a scale ranging from 1 (non-tacky) to 5 (very tacky).
- composition to be tested 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then deposited on one half of a Skin FX support (Reference: Sheet Medium Back K6 Languette from Axon Cable SAS) applied to the back of the hand.
- the composition is then spread by hand, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15- second intervals. The composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.
- the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water.
- the study is performed by a panel of five experienced people who evaluate the tack individually according to the above protocol.
- composition is considered to be unacceptably tacky if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0.
- the playtime evaluation consists in noting the performance of the composition in terms of glidance/softness on a scale ranging from 1 (not at all glidant/soft) to 5 (very glidant/soft).
- 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then placed on a Skin FX support (Reference: Sheet Medium Back K6 Languette from Axon Cable SAS) applied to the back of the hand.
- the composition is then spread by hand, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15- second intervals.
- the composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.
- the glidance/softness is evaluated using the index and middle fingers after drying. Between two evaluations, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water. The study is performed by a panel of five experienced people who individually evaluate the glidance/softness according to the above protocol.
- - score equal to 3: average glidance/softness; - score > 3: glidant/soft.
- the viscosity of the compositions may be measured using a rheometer (Rheomat RM200).
- the measurement is performed using an immersed element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a constant chosen speed.
- the measurement is performed with a product to be analysed - cup - measuring body assembly at a given nominal temperature, regulated for example using a thermostatic bath.
- the measuring cup is filled with the composition to be tested, avoiding the introduction of air and pouring along the wall.
- the spindle used for performing the measurements is chosen depending on the viscosity of the product to be analysed:
- the machine is programmed to perform 75 measurements, at a spindle rotation speed of 200 rpm.
- the nominal temperature is 25°C.
- the viscosity is measured after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.
- a composition may be considered to be fluid if it has a viscosity of less than or equal to 0.65 Pa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above.
- compositions according to the invention (II), and two compositions outside the invention (Cl and C2) not comprising non-starchy heteropolysaccharides were prepared.
- These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 2 below, in contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 2]
- phase Al In a tank, the components of phase Al are heated to a temperature of 75°C with paddle stirring until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained.
- the components of phase A2 are dispersed in this heated mixture using a rotor/ stator until a perfectly homogeneous, gel- free medium is obtained.
- the components of phase B are dispersed in the mixture using a rotor/stator until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained.
- the components of phase C are added and homogenized using a rotor/stator, with cooling at a temperature of 25 °C.
- the components of phase D are dispersed using a rotor/stator until a homogeneous medium is obtained, while keeping the temperature at 25°C.
- the components of phase E are added with paddle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
- Composition II according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.
- Composition Cl shows phase separation and sedimentation of the fillers after 2 months of storage at 45°C and is thus unstable.
- composition II according to the invention is advantageously sparingly or not at all tacky, unlike composition C2, outside the invention, which is unacceptably tacky.
- the composition according to the invention comprising at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, has both particularly advantageous stability and texture, compared with a composition comprising only a non-starchy heteropolysaccharide.
- compositions according to the invention (II) and a composition outside the invention (C3) not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms were also prepared, according to the preparation protocol described above.
- These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise compounds with contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition and are detailed in Table 3 below.
- composition II according to the invention results were also evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.
- the composition according to the invention comprising at least one glycolipid and at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms, in particular at least oleyl alcohol, has both advantageous stability and advantageous sensory properties, compared with a composition not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms.
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, and to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials.
Description
Description
COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLYCOLIPID, AT LEAST ONE LINEAR OR BRANCHED LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL AND AT LEAST TWO POLYSACCHARIDES, USE AND PROCESS USING THE COMPOSITION
Technical field
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, notably intended for reducing the appearance of skin blackheads and/or for preventing skin blackheads.
More particularly, the present invention is directed towards proposing a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and at least two different polysaccharide polymers. The invention also relates to the use of a composition for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising the topical application to the skin of a composition as described previously.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “skin” is understood to denote all of the skin of the body, excluding the scalp and the mucous membranes. Preferably, the term “skin” targets the skin of the face and/or of the hands, in particular the skin of the face, more particularly the skin of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
Prior art
There exist cosmetic compositions for combating the appearance of skin blackheads or for concealing them, in particular on the face. This type of cutaneous imperfection, which concerns all skin typologies, is generally considered to be unattractive and thus undesirable. In view of its black, indeed even brown, colour, it is regarded as overly visible, all the more so on a lightly pigmented skin.
To date, the source of the colour of skin blackheads has not been fully established.
It is, on the other hand, known that skin blackheads result from the process of comedogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units of sebaceous follicle type, which are predominantly distributed on the face.
From a clinical perspective, a skin blackhead is thus an open comedone (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair canal, sebum retention and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous duct. Hypercornification is considered to result in sebum retention and in the accumulation of cell debris.
A certain number of solutions for treating skin blackheads have already been proposed.
Some of these solutions are based more particularly on treating blackheads with an active agent that is capable of preventing, altering or eliminating the blackheads. By way of illustration of these active agents, mention may notably be made of active agents that are capable of dissolving the lipids constituting the blackheads, such as the alkyl lactate derivatives described in patent US 4 540 567, the lipase enzyme, described in patent application US 2006/051339, or else neutralized fatty acids as described in patent application EP 3 150 187.
However, a number of these active agents have the drawback of impairing the properties of the composition comprising them, in particular the odour and/or colour of the composition, over time. These active agents also prove to be effective only with regard to blackheads that have already appeared.
One of the solutions proposed for overcoming these drawbacks is the use of glycolipids in the compositions.
Specifically, it has been found that glycolipids, and notably dirhamnolipids, inhibit the formation of skin blackheads, probably by intervening in the process of oxidation of L- DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine). As a reminder, L-DOPA is involved in the very complex melanogenesis mechanism. More specifically, the oxidation of L-DOPA, promoted by the microbial activity present in the comedone, is expressed by a colouring effect probably of dopachrome type, the latter being a coloured intermediate of the melanin biosynthesis pathway. The dirhamnolipids appear to impair the formation of the product of the oxidation reaction in the comedones and thus inhibit their black or brown colouration. Such compounds have already been used in cleansing compositions, described in patent application WO 2020/114793, notably for cleansing cosmetic residues, undesirable microorganisms or the body’s own excretions such as sebum.
However, the use of such active agents requires the presence of a high surfactant content, which has the drawback of making the composition opaque. This aspect is often regarded as offputting by consumers.
Specifically, opalescence or translucency is a particularly sought-after and appreciated effect which corresponds to a current trend.
One solution would then be to reduce the surfactant content in such compositions. However, this reduction leads to a loss of stability in the formulations over time, with the appearance of creaming and syneresis.
Furthermore, consumers are nowadays very sensitive with regard to the environmental impact of the products used.
Consequently, it remains very difficult to use glycolipids in cosmetic compositions, while retaining satisfactory sensory results, and with the least possible environmental impact.
Disclosure of the invention
The aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.
In the light of the foregoing, it is thus clear that the need remains to provide consumers with novel cosmetic compositions containing glycolipids, which are effective in preventing and/or cosmetically treating skin blackheads and which have both good stability over time and good sensory properties, notably softness and little or no tack after application.
There is also a remaining need for such compositions to be fluid.
The need also remains to have compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands, notably regarding the environment.
The present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.
Summary of the invention
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one glycolipid;
- at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms;
- at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides; and
- at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
As illustrated in the examples hereinbelow, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by combining specific polymers with glycolipids, in the presence of a particular fatty alcohol, it is possible to obtain effective, stable, fluid and opalescent compositions with good cosmetic properties. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
The invention also relates to a skincare process, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a composition as defined previously.
A subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition as described previously for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.
Detailed description
The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and/or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.
The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
The term "cosmetic" refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and the integuments. The composition according to the invention is non- therapeutic.
It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids.
If two or more glycolipids are used, they may be identical or different.
The term “glycolipid” means a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.
In particular, the glycolipid(s) may be chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from rhamnolipids.
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially comprises at least one rhamnolipid.
Glucolipids
The glycolipid(s) may be glucolipids, which comprise a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I):
- R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
- p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and
- q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
The glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.
The appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203). The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using ethyl ether or a dichloromethane/methanol or chloroform/methanol mixture.
The glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):
- R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,
- R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,
- R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,
- R7 represents a hydrogen atom,
- R8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or R7 and R8 together form a lactone ring.
Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, in which R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxyl group OH, or in its lactone form, in which a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated in formula (III):
R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,
with the proviso that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.
The sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P. A.J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962) 40 1326 and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984) 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various openchain sophorolipids and of sophorolipid lactones that may be used in the form of mixtures, or the required form may be isolated.
Examples of sophorolipids that may be used include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.
Trehalolipids
The glycolipid(s) may be trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV):
[Chem 4]
in which R9, R10 and R11 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
The trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis . Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987) J. Jpn Oil Chem. Soc. 36 847- 851, Schultz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch. 46C 197-203; and Passeri et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch. 46C 204-209.
Cellobiose lipids
The glycolipid(s) may be cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V):
- R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
- R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
- R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,
- R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
The cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.
The glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.
Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid) linked via a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of P-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to each other via an ester bond.
Preferably, the rhamnolipids are chosen from mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI) below: [Chem 6]
in which:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
- n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and
- Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects monorhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects dirhamnolipids.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and
- Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted,
and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.
In the context of the invention:
- the salts of the dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereof with an organic or inorganic cation and notably with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,
- the solvated forms of the dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and
- the term “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group containing a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3 with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three dirhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one monorhamnolipid.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) below:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
- n is equal to 1,
- Ri is a radical -(CH2)P-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from
4 to 12,
- R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
By way of non-limiting illustration of the dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the compounds of formula diRL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.
The formula diRL-CXCY is an alternative way of writing in order to represent a dirhamnolipid (diRL) functionalized with two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4. [Table 1]
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also referred to as diRL-ClOClO, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
Preferably, the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals, and preferably Ri represents a -(CJb^CHs radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical, or a salt, solvate or optical isomer thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) as defined previously, and more particularly chosen from:
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, and
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals, and preferably, Ri is a -(CJb^CHs radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
- at least 50% by weight, preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,
- from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and
- from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a -(CJb^CHs radical and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
The rhamnolipids are conventionally prepared via processes known to those skilled in the art starting from producing bacteria, such as Pseudomonas strains.
Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing./Biotechnol. (1986) 33, 53-90 and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.
As rhamnolipids, use may be made of the product sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of glycolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of rhamnolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polysaccharides
As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
The term “heteropolysaccharide” means a polysaccharide formed from different monosaccharides. Thus, a homopolysaccharide is a polysaccharide formed from a single monosaccharide.
Non-starchy heteropolysaccharides
As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms.
The heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms may be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, gellan gums and mixtures thereof.
Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).
Xanthan gums are sold, for example, under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for
the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco. Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.
Gellan gum is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least xanthan gum as a non-starchy heteropolysaccharide.
According to a particular embodiment, the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae.
The heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae may be chosen from alginate-based compounds.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “ alginate -based compound" means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives.
Mention may be made in particular of alginate-based compounds with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20 000 to 250 000.
According to a particular embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof.
Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.
The alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine™, Cecalgum™ or Algogel™ by the company Cargill Products, under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.
According to a particular embodiment, the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from heteropolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular heterogeneous heteropolysaccharides and derivatives thereof.
In particular, mention may be made of acacia gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and derivatives thereof, fenugreek gum, tara gum and locust bean gum, glucomannans (konjac gum), LM and HM pectins and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
The unmodified nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aquaion.
Hydrolysed nonionic guar gums are sold, for example, under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.
Nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aquaion.
Guar gums modified with cationic groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aquaion.
The anionic guar gums may be chosen from carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carb oxy methyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).
Unmodified locust bean gum is notably sold under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, and under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.
The chemically modified locust bean gums may be chosen from the cationic locust bean gums sold, for example, under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.
Tara gum is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin. Konjac gum is sold, for example, under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.
Pectins are notably sold by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine™, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.
Polysaccharide polymer different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides
According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the polysaccharide polymer(s) different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
Such a polymer may notably be chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides.
In particular, the non-starchy homopolysaccharides may be chosen from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, in particular chosen from pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, scleroglucan gum and mixtures thereof.
Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.
Dextran is sold, for example, under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is notably sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.
Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the company Cargill.
Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides is chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, in particular from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, and preferably is scleroglucan gum.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
Mention may be made of the mixture of xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum sold under the name Actigum™ VSX 20 by the company Cargill.
The non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides isolated from algae, in particular chosen from galactans, furcellaran and mixtures thereof. The galactans may be chosen from agar or carrageenans.
The carrageenans are notably sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the
company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP- Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar- Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.
Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.
The non-starchy homopolysaccharides may also be chosen from homopolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular homogeneous homopolysaccharides and derivatives thereof.
These polymers may notably be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.
Celluloses that may notably be mentioned include quaternized alkylhydroxy ethylcelluloses containing Cs-Cso fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C is alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, notably of C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
The celluloses and derivatives may also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aquaion® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aquaion.
The fructosan may be chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (notably dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins). Inulin is sold, for example, under the name Beneo™ inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.
Among the non-starchy homopolysaccharides, mention may also be made of chitin (poly- N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, P(l,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy -D-glucose).
According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide polymer different from non- starchy heteropolysaccharides may be chosen from starchy polysaccharides.
As representatives of this category, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.
The native starches are sold, for example, under the names C*Amilogel™, Cargill Gel™, C* Gel™, Cargill Gum™, DryGel™ and C*Pharm Gel™ by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.
The modified starches are sold, for example, under the names C*Tex-Instant (pregelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*Tex™ (acetylated distarch adipate), C*PolarTex™ (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C* StabiTex™ (distarch phosphate, acetylated distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill. They may also be chosen from distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava di starch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava di starch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
As examples of oxidized starches, mention may be made of the products sold under the name C*size from the company Cargill.
Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:
- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and notably with sodium polyacrylate, for example those sold under the names Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch);
- hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), and notably acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer);
- polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac.
Linear or branched liquid fattv alcohol
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.
The “liquid fatty alcohols” are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure and are insoluble in water (i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight) and are soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) to at least 1% by weight.
The fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
In particular, the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (dodecan-l-ol), 2 -butyl- 1 -octanol, 2-hexyl-l -decanol and mixtures thereof. In particular, the liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.
The fatty alcohols may be mixed, which means that several species may coexist in a commercial product, notably species of different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least oleyl alcohol.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises oleyl alcohol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
Oils
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil.
The term “oi means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The composition according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The composition may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile fluoro oil.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The term “ silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-0 group.
The term "fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals, provided that these oils are environmentally friendly.
Volatile oils
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oi means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10‘3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made notably of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
Non-volatile oils
The term ^non-volalile" refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10'3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The non-volatile oils may notably be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. The term “nonvolatile alkane” means a hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oil which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a vapour pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of article 2 of European Council Directive 1999/13/EC of 11 March, 1992: “Any organic compound having, at a temperature of 293.15 K, a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”. In particular, the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart LI 9 from SEPPIC, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, Limanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of cocoyl caprylate/caprate,
for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and Ci- Ce alcohols having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for instance the product sold under the name Citrofol Al Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; more particularly chosen from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G),
phytosteryl/i sosteary 1/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol, linear or branched liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, for example caprylic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; higher C19-C22 fatty acids; carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; non-phenyl silicone oils, for instance caprylyl methicone; and phenyl silicone oils, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethyl sil oxy di phenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
Other fatty substances
The composition according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.
The other fatty substances that may be present in the composition are, for example: solid fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
fatty alcohol waxes such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Coming or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries; a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol); a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
As fatty substance, the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, more particularly a plant butter.
The plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, in particular the product having the INCI name Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one nonvolatile ester oil.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil, preferably a non-volatile oil, more preferentially at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, even more preferentially chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, and preferably cocoyl caprylate/caprate.
In particular, such non-silicone oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is devoid (free) of silicone oil(s).
Solvent
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 50% to 99.5% by weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may notably be made of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.
The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of water-soluble solvent, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight of water-soluble solvent and more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight of water-soluble solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, more preferentially a C2-C32 polyol.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the polyol may, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from caprylyl glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol.
In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of polyol(s), preferably from 3% to 8% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anhydrous composition” means a composition with a water (or aqueous phase) content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition, or alternatively even less than 0.5% and is notably free of water. In this definition, the water mentioned includes the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
Surfactants
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one surfactant.
This or these surfactants are different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.
The surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer ’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
In particular, the composition may comprise a content of surfactant(s) ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Needless to say, the composition according to the invention may comprise several surfactants.
An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion is preferably used.
Nonionic surfactants
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
The nonionic surfactants may notably be chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of polyethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Anionic surfactants
Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant.
The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates,
phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and notably C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates, mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, alkyl ether citrates, alkoxylated glucose alkenyl succinates and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates, phosphoric acid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of mixed esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (INCI name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (INCI name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hills under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
Cationic surfactants
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant.
The cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as (Ci2-3o-alkyl)-tri(Ci-4- alkyl)ammonium halides for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof.
Amphoteric surfactants
The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodi acetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s), preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more
preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.
Fillers
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular chosen from those conventionally used in care compositions.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fillers” is intended to denote colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
Needless to say, these fillers are used in appropriate contents and under appropriate conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.
As illustrations of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles, poly-P-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, modified or unmodified starches, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, metal oxides such as aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof. Use may also be made of particles that are in the form of hollow sphere portions, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.
Also suitable for use are synthetic or natural micronized waxes, in particular natural waxes. Mention may notably be made of the carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by the company Lubrizol. Such additional micronized waxes notably allow the properties to be improved when the composition is applied to the skin.
According to a preferred embodiment, when it is present, the filler is a silicon-free filler. Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular chosen from modified or unmodified starches.
The starch molecules that are suitable for use as fillers according to the present invention may originate from all plant sources of starch, notably cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, they may be com, rice, rice husk, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca starches.
Examples that may be mentioned notably include the Remy DR I® rice starch sold by the company Remy; Corn Starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Pure® by the company National Starch, or under the name Organic Tapioca Natural by the company Agrana Starke; rice husk powder sold under the name Ricesilk by the company Soliance.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises native tapioca starch powder, rice husk powder, or mixtures thereof, and more preferentially native tapioca starch powder.
The modified starch may be a (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch. The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by the company Roquette.
In particular, the filler(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, notably between 0.2% and 7.0% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic active agents
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.
It may in particular be at least one active agent for caring for greasy skin.
It may also advantageously comprise at least one additional active agent for caring for elderly skin.
In the context of the present invention, the term “additional active agent” means a compound which has, by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent in order to activate it, a biological activity which may in particular be:
- a desquamating activity (which enables the opening of the comedones), and/or
- an antimicrobial activity (notably with regard to C. acnes), and/or
- a calmative or anti-irritant activity, and/or
- a sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic activity, and/or
- an astringent activity, and/or
- an activity intended to combat and/or prevent the signs of ageing, notably chronobiological ageing, for example wrinkles and fine lines.
The additional active agent that may be used in the compositions of the invention is preferentially chosen from desquamating agents, calmative agents, anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, depigmenting agents, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, wound-healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins, astringent agents and mixtures thereof in any proportions.
The composition according to the invention may also include at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, polar additives, film-forming polymers other than polysaccharide polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersants, and mixtures thereof.
The additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
Cosmetic composition
The composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.
It may notably be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, which may be gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, which may be a two-phase dispersion, an oil-in-
water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, or else a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, notably using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type. The composition may be of more or less fluid liquid consistency.
According to a preferred variant, the composition considered according to the invention differs from compositions having an essentially detergent purpose with regard to the skin, hair and/or mucous membranes, such as soaps, shampoos and shower gels for washing and/or cleansing.
The composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
The composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, notably obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft consistency, or even of multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
More particularly, this composition is intended for topical application and preferably is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application.
The composition according to the invention is intended to be applied to the skin.
Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and/or of the body, in particular of the face and/or of the hands, preferably of the face, and more particularly of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
The pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably ranging from 4 to 7, better still ranging from 4.5 to 6.5.
As specified, it is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which is advantageously very fluid.
The composition may alternatively be in the form of a face and/or body care or makeup product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or a pump bottle or a dropper bottle.
The composition according to the invention may be manufactured via any known process generally used in the cosmetics field.
The ingredients are mixed, before being formed, in the order and under conditions that may readily be determined by a person skilled in the art.
According to a particular form of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and/or the texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.
Uses and processes
According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined previously for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step in which a composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin materials.
The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic. The cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
The topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.
By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, makeup-removing milk or after-sun composition, preferably in emulsion form.
According to one embodiment, the application is repeated, for example, 1 to 2 times daily for one or more days and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, if appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, indeed even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been cleansed beforehand, for example using an appropriate soap,
and/or freed beforehand of blackheads, for example using an adhesive patch or a mechanical action.
According to an embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.
Moreover, treatment combinations optionally with topical forms may be envisaged, so as to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention
A topical treatment with the composition according to the invention, combined with an ancillary composition intended for topical application, is conceivable.
Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising: a) a step of topical application to the skin of a washing solution; b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, notably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion; and c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b), it being possible for steps b) and c) to be performed simultaneously or successively.
Such a composition applied in step c) can be termed a “supplementary composition”.
The washing solution may notably be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or others, preferably in the form of a solution or an aqueous gel.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the terms “between ... and ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.
The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.
Examples
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Stability measurement
The stability of the compositions may be evaluated according to the following protocol.
The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.
The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at various temperatures: room temperature (about 20°C), 4°C, 37°C and 45°C. The temperature may be regulated using an oven, for example Firlabo’s Bio Concept machine.
The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.
The properties evaluated are:
- the pH of the composition using a pH-meter;
- the viscosity of the composition, measured with a viscometer, for example a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology according to the CID-012-02 method;
- the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a microscope between slide and coverslip, at XI 0 magnification;
- the colour and odour of the composition; and
- the leaching, creaming, coalescence, formation of a surface film, mottling, etc.
The closer the properties of the composition after 1 month and/or 2 months of storage remain to those initially measured, the more the composition may be considered as remaining stable.
In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no leaching, no phase separation and no change in colour, then it is considered to be stable.
Measurement of the sensory effect
The sensory effect is evaluated by scoring the performance of the composition according to tackiness on a scale ranging from 1 (non-tacky) to 5 (very tacky).
To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then deposited on one half of a Skin FX support (Reference: Sheet Medium Back K6 Languette from Axon Cable SAS) applied to the back of the hand.
The composition is then spread by hand, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15- second intervals. The composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.
The tack is evaluated using the index and middle fingers after each 15-rotation phase and then after drying.
Between two evaluations, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water. The study is performed by a panel of five experienced people who evaluate the tack individually according to the above protocol.
The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest halfunit, according to the following scale:
- score < 3 : sparingly or not at all tacky;
- score equal to 3 : medium tack;
- score > 3: very tacky.
According to the invention, a composition is considered to be unacceptably tacky if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0.
Measurement of glidance/softness
The playtime evaluation consists in noting the performance of the composition in terms of glidance/softness on a scale ranging from 1 (not at all glidant/soft) to 5 (very glidant/soft). To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then placed on a Skin FX support (Reference: Sheet Medium Back K6 Languette from Axon Cable SAS) applied to the back of the hand. The composition is then spread by hand, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15- second intervals. The composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.
The glidance/softness is evaluated using the index and middle fingers after drying. Between two evaluations, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water. The study is performed by a panel of five experienced people who individually evaluate the glidance/softness according to the above protocol.
The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest halfunit, according to the following scale:
- score < 3: sparingly or not at all glidant/soft;
- score equal to 3: average glidance/softness;
- score > 3: glidant/soft.
According to the invention, a composition is considered glidant/soft if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0.
Viscosity measurement
The viscosity of the compositions may be measured using a rheometer (Rheomat RM200). The measurement is performed using an immersed element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a constant chosen speed. The measurement is performed with a product to be analysed - cup - measuring body assembly at a given nominal temperature, regulated for example using a thermostatic bath. The measuring cup is filled with the composition to be tested, avoiding the introduction of air and pouring along the wall.
The spindle used for performing the measurements is chosen depending on the viscosity of the product to be analysed:
- Ml : lotion;
- M2: fluid milk;
- M3: cream, thick milk; and/or
- M4: thick cream, preferably M2.
The machine is programmed to perform 75 measurements, at a spindle rotation speed of 200 rpm. The nominal temperature is 25°C. The viscosity is measured after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.
The results are expressed in Pa.s.
A composition may be considered to be fluid if it has a viscosity of less than or equal to 0.65 Pa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above.
A composition according to the invention (II), and two compositions outside the invention (Cl and C2) not comprising non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, were prepared. These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 2 below, in contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 2]
Preparation protocol
In a tank, the components of phase Al are heated to a temperature of 75°C with paddle stirring until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained. The components of phase A2 are dispersed in this heated mixture using a rotor/ stator until a perfectly homogeneous, gel- free medium is obtained. The components of phase B are dispersed in the mixture using a rotor/stator until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained. The components of phase C are added and homogenized using a rotor/stator, with cooling at a temperature of 25 °C. The components of phase D are dispersed using a rotor/stator until a homogeneous medium is obtained, while keeping the temperature at 25°C. Finally, the components of phase E are added with paddle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
EXAMPLE 2 Results
The stability, sensory effect and viscosity of composition II according to the invention and of compositions Cl and C2, outside the invention, were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.
Composition II according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.
Composition Cl, on the other hand, shows phase separation and sedimentation of the fillers after 2 months of storage at 45°C and is thus unstable.
Moreover, composition II according to the invention is advantageously sparingly or not at all tacky, unlike composition C2, outside the invention, which is unacceptably tacky.
As a result, the composition according to the invention, comprising at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, has both particularly advantageous stability and texture, compared with a composition comprising only a non-starchy heteropolysaccharide.
Finally, a composition according to the invention has a fluid texture.
EXAMPLE 3
A composition according to the invention (II) and a composition outside the invention (C3) not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms, were also prepared, according to the preparation protocol described above. These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise compounds with contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition and are detailed in Table 3 below.
EXAMPLE 4
Results
The stability and sensory effect of composition II according to the invention and of composition C3 outside the invention were also evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.
Composition II according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.
On the other hand, composition C3, which is outside the invention, shows leaching of oil on the surface after 2 months of storage at 45°C and is thus unstable.
In addition, there is a significant superiority in the perception of the glidance/softness of composition II according to the invention compared with composition C3.
As a result, the composition according to the invention, comprising at least one glycolipid and at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms, in particular at least oleyl alcohol, has both advantageous stability and advantageous sensory properties, compared with a composition not comprising any linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising between 6 and 18 carbon atoms.
Claims
1. Composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one glycolipid;
- at least one linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms; at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides; and at least one polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids.
3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the glycolipid(s) are chosen from dirhamnolipids corresponding to the general formula (VI):
in which:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and
- Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent identical or different hydrocarbon-based radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13
carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
4. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the dirhamnolipid(s) correspond to the general formula (VII):
in which:
- m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
- n is equal to 1,
- Ri is a radical -(CH2)P-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
- R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids, preferably chosen from the dirhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI) as defined in Claim 3 or to formula (VII) as defined in Claim 4, more preferentially chosen from:
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, and
- a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which m and n are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals, and preferably, Ri is a -(CJb^CHs radical and R2 is a nonenyl radical.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said glycolipid(s), in particular chosen from rhamnolipids, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides is xanthan gum.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said polysaccharide polymer different from non-starchy heteropolysaccharide(s) is chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, in particular from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or fungi, and preferably is scleroglucan gum.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the polysaccharide polymer(s) different from the non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprise from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 18 carbon atoms, and in particular are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially is oleyl alcohol.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, better still
from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one non-silicone oil, preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, even more preferentially chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
14. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising the non-silicone oil(s) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one surfactant different from the glycolipid(s) and the linear or branched liquid fatty alcohol(s), preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from anionic surfactants, even more preferentially from mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol.
16. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising the surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
18. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.
19. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17.
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FR2206015A FR3136663A1 (en) | 2022-06-20 | 2022-06-20 | Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one liquid linear or branched fatty alcohol and at least two polysaccharides, use and method using the composition |
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