FR2940111A1 - KERATINIC MATERIAL COATING KIT COMPRISING A POLYSACCHARIDE AND A IONIC OR DATIVE COMPLEXATION AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates in particular to a keratin material coating kit comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least a particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres, in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic product, in particular a non-therapeutic make-up or care product for keratin materials comprising at least two compounds X and Y, which are capable of reacting together, at least one of the compounds being a polysaccharide.

The products according to the invention may be make-up or skincare products for keratin materials, in particular skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails. In particular, the product according to the invention can be a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow, a concealer, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil or with eyes, a mascara, an eyeliner or a product for making up the body, for coloring the skin, or for a treatment such as a care cream, a tinted cream, or a sun product.

Makeup compositions such as lipsticks and foundations are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the lips or to the skin, especially to the face, or to camouflage skin discolorations. These makeup products generally contain water or a hydrophilic phase, fatty substances such as waxes and / or oils, and a particulate phase generally composed of fillers and / or pigments.

These compositions, when they are applied to the skin, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact with each other. and especially a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. It follows a poor persistence of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the foundation composition or lipstick. These transfer problems are all the more important that the compositions comprise a high content of pigments, which is the case when the compositions are intended to mask dyschromias, problems of damaged skin, or imperfections of relief such as wrinkles or scars. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar can exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup.

Cosmetic so-called non-transfer compositions are thus sought which have the advantage of forming a deposit which does not transfer, at least in part, onto the supports with which they are brought into contact (glass, clothing, cigarette, tissues) and presenting a good behavior over time, especially color in the case of a

2 makeup product. Better still, we seek compositions whose holding properties and non-transfer can be controlled over time, that is to say, compositions having optimal hold during the day, and can be removed without effort effortlessly to any time.

To limit the transfer of cosmetic compositions, it is known to use volatile oils. These volatile oils, when present in large quantities, make the makeup product, such as the foundation or the lipstick, uncomfortable for the user: after evaporation of the oil, the makeup deposit gives a feeling of drying and tugging.

In the field of compositions for coating eyelashes or mascaras, it is known in particular anhydrous mascaras or low water content and / or water-soluble solvents, so-called waterproof mascaras, formulated as a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents and which have good resistance to water and / or sebum. However, the makeup film obtained after the application of these compositions is not sufficiently resistant to water, for bathing or showers for example, with tears or sweat. The mascara then tends to crumble in time: grains are deposited and unsightly marks appear around the eyes.

The object of the present invention is to provide a novel way of formulating cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up or care compositions, making it possible to obtain a film deposited on keratin materials having good non-transfer properties, good holding properties in the time, especially with water and friction, and conferring a comfortable deposit on the skin, lips, eyelashes or nails. The inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain such properties by using a system comprising a polysaccharide (compound X) and a complexing agent (compound Y) which react in situ, at atmospheric pressure and at a temperature chosen according to of the system considered, so as to form a film adhering to the keratin materials without being tacky, said film may even be peelable under certain conditions. These compounds also have the advantage of being of natural origin.

Polymeric films formed in situ on keratinous materials have very good adhesion, water resistance or sebum properties, mechanical resistance to friction, and comfort.

In addition, these compositions may have second skin characteristics, in that the deposition on the keratin materials is obtained by an in situ reaction, directly on the skin. The resulting film adapts perfectly to the morphology of the skin. Finally, it is possible for the user to modulate the thickness of the deposit formed when it wants to camouflage irregularities of relief of the skin such as wrinkles or fine lines. Before being applied to keratin materials, compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition or in two different compositions called first and second compositions.

According to one embodiment, the compound X and the compound Y are applied via at least two distinct compositions, each comprising one of the compounds.

This is why the subject of the present invention is, according to a first aspect, a kit for coating keratin materials, comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the kit for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 35

According to another particular embodiment, the kit for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, and and said compound X being present in an amount of minus 1% by weight relative to the weight of the first composition or relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said compound X is not a compound based on alginic acid.

According to one embodiment, the kit further comprises a third composition for removing the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of the compounds X and Y. According to one alternative, the film obtained on the keratin materials is peelable.

Preferably, the first composition comprising compound X and the second composition comprising compound Y are packaged in separate packages.

Each composition can be packaged separately in the same packaging article, for example a packaging and dispensing device being arranged to separately store the first and second compositions and comprising an adjustment member allowing a user to vary the relative proportion of the composition. at least one composition in the mixture obtained, said relative proportion conditioning the properties of the mixture obtained, for example the properties of non-transfer or comfort. Alternatively, each of the first and second compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article. According to one embodiment, at least one additional layer of at least one third composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, and preferably at least one film-forming polymer and at least one organic (or oily) or aqueous solvent medium, is applied on the layer or layers of the composition or compositions comprising the compounds X and Y, for example to improve the hold, gloss, non-transfer and / or comfort of that (s).

The subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a cosmetic process for coating keratinous substances consisting of: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition. then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

Alternatively, compound X and compound Y are applied via at least two separate compositions, each comprising one of the compounds. 20

This is why the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, the process comprising the application to said keratinous materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic process for coating the keratin materials according to the invention comprises the application on said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X;

7 b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises the application on said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said first composition.

According to this method, it is possible to apply at least one layer of the first composition comprising the compound X to the keratin materials, and then to deposit on the layer or layers of said first composition at least one layer of the second composition comprising the compound Y. According to one variant, the process consists in applying at least one layer of the second composition comprising the compound Y to the keratin materials, and then depositing on the layer or layers of said second composition at least one layer of the first composition comprising the compound X .

It is also possible to alternately apply to the keratin materials several layers of each of the first and second compositions.

Finally, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic complexation reaction or dative in situ at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) to form a film.

This is why the subject of the present invention is, according to a second aspect, a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compound X being a polysaccharide, the said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, after application of said composition to the keratin materials. According to this alternative, the film is formed after application of said composition to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and evaporation of the continuous aqueous phase.

According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprises (i) at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, after application of said composition on the keratinous materials, and (ii) at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprises at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, after application of said composition to the keratin materials, and said compound X being present in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The invention also relates to a method for removing make-up and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application to the keratinous material, a first composition comprising at least one polysaccharide compound X, and a second composition comprising a complexing agent Y of said compound X,

The method comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a make-up removal and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent. The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition or a kit as described above, for obtaining a film deposited on keratinous substances, having holding, non-transfer and / or comfort properties. improved.

Of course, each composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials and has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel.

1. Polysaccharide (Compound X)

The polysaccharides (compound X) present in the products according to the invention may especially be chosen from polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants. The polysaccharides are chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as blond pea, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, arabic gums Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl) lgar) and ionic biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides and especially chondroitin sulphates and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide X is not a compound based on alginic acid.

These polysaccharides may be modified chemically, in particular by urea, urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

In general, compounds of this type which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those described in particular in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900. and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA Mc GREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 ", in Robert L.'s book.

DAVIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water Soluble Gums and Resins" edited by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Academic Press Publishing Inc., the contents of these three works being fully included in the present application for reference 1. Polysaccharides made by microorganisms

Xanthan Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of R-D-glucoses linked in [3 (1,4), similar to cellulose. One in two glucose molecules carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of a-D-mannose, R-D-glucuronic acid and terminal R-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on the carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group bound in chelated form between the carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH 1). The contents of the pyruvate and acetate residues vary according to the strain of bacteria, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na +, K + or Cal + ions (SATIA company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to an acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

Chemical Structure of the Xanthan Base Unit: p-G1 cp-G1c g-Man Source: Christensen et al. (1993). The xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25 ° C. using a viscometer). Brookfield, LVT type at 60 rpm). Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANETM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name NOVAXANTM by ADM, and under the names Kelzan and Keltrol by CP-Kelco.

Pullulan Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units, known as a (1,4) -a (1,6) -glucan. Three units of glucose in maltotriose are connected by a glycosidic linkage to a (1,4), while the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other by a glycosidic linkage to a (1,6). Pullulan is produced by fermentation from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pu / lu / ans.

Chemical Structure of the Pullulan Base Unit: ## STR1 ## The pullulan is for example produced as Pullulan PF 20. by the Hayashibara group in Japan.

Dextran and Dextran Sulfate Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide without a charged, biologically inert group prepared by fermentation of sugar beet containing only hydroxyl groups. It is synthesized from sucrose by fermentation in the presence of certain lactic acid bacteria, the most common being Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Streptococcus mutans. This connected polysaccharide consists of a succession of glucose molecules forming a chain of variable lengths. The main chain consists of glucose molecules linked together by α (1,6) glycosidic linkages, and the branches are connected to the main chain by α (1,3) glycosidic bonds (and in some cases, at (1,2) and at (1,4).

Chemical structure of dextran: ## STR2 ## Dextran fractions of different molecular weights can be obtained from the native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate.

Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, under the name Dextran 40 powder or Dextran 70 powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is marketed by the company PK Chemical A / S under the name Dextran sulphate.

Succinoalkane Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, of high molecular weight and consisting of repeated units of octasaccharides (repetition of 8 sugars). These units are synthesized in the membranes of the microorganism related to isoprenoid lipids. The main chain contains 3 glucoses and 1 galactose, and the side chain contains 4 glucoses. The sugars are linked together by glycosidic linkages (3 (1,4) and (3 (1,3).) The pyruvate substituent is attached to the last glucose of the side chain, on the other hand, the succinate can be linked to the one of the other 2 glucoses of the same side chain In addition, the basic unit of said succinoglycans may contain residues of other organic acids, such as pyruvile or acetyl residues, as well as other sugars such as glucuronic acid. and / or mannose The molar ratios between glucose and such organic acid residues are generally between (5 to 8) / (0.01 to 2) .The molar ratios between said other sugars and glucose are generally between (0 to 1) / (5 to 8).

The succinoglycans may be obtained by microbial fermentation, for example by fermentation of a medium containing at least one carbon source, by means of a microorganism which preferably belongs to the genus Arthrobacter, such as Arthrobacter Stabilis, to the genus Agrobacterium, such as Agrobacterium turnefaciens, Agrobacterium radiobacter, or Agrobacterium rhizogenes, to the genus Rhizobium, to the genus Alcaligenes, such as Alcaligenes faecalis. Fermentation media containing the carbon source as well as fermentation processes are extensively described in the literature. Succinoglycan is an anionic polysaccharide which has the particularity of having a helix-pelot transition, induced by a temperature change. This conformational transition is very cooperative, leading to a significant change in the rigidity of the polymer.

Succinoglycans are, for example, sold under the name Rheozan by Rhodia.

Scleroglucan Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide consisting of 8-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain consisting of D-glucose units linked by (3 (1,3) linkages and one in three of which is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit via an 8 (1,6) linkage .

Chemical Structure of Scleroglucans: These polysaccharides are obtained by fermentation of a medium based on sugar and mineral salts, under the action of a Sclerotium-type microorganism, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii. A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US 3,301,848.

Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUMTM CS by Cargill.

2. Polysaccharides isolated from galactan algae

The compound X of the composition according to the invention may be a galactan, especially chosen from agar or carrageenans. 20

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α (1,3) and R (1,4) bonds. These are highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of ester-sulphate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, there are several types of carrageenans namely: kappa-carrageenans which have an ester-sulphate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester groups sulphate and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulphate groups.

Carrageenans in particular have the following chemical structures: Kappa Iota Lambda oH oso.` Carrageenans consist essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and polysaccharide sulfate esters.

The physicochemical properties and uses of these polysaccharides as gelling agents rely on their ability to establish conformational transitions.

16 helix depending on the thermal and ionic environment [Kloareg et al. Oceanography and Marine Biology - An Annual Review 26: 259-315 (1988)].

The carrageenans are marketed by the company Seppic under the name Solagum, by the company Gelymar under the name of Carragel, Carralact, and Carrasol, by Cargill under the names SATIAGELTM and SATIAGUMTM and by the company CP-Kelco under the name denomination GENULACTA, GENUGEL and GENUVISCO.

Galactans Agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophycea). They are formed of a polymer group whose basic skeleton is a chain [3 (1,3) D-galactopyranose and a (1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose, these units repeating regularly and alternately. Differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methylated or carboxyethylated solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present as a variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the season of harvest. The agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular weight, between 40,000 and 300,000 gmol-1. It is obtained by producing algae extraction juices, usually by autoclaving, and treating these juices which include about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract it.

The agar is for example produced by the group B & V Agar Producers, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam .

Furcellarane Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red seaweed Furcellaria fasztigiata, mainly found in the northern seas of Europe. Its structure is very close to that of carrageenans. Furcellarane is for example produced by the company East-Agar. 3. Polysaccharides of higher plants Homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of oses) and heterogeneous compounds of several types of oses are distinguished.

Homogeneous polysaccharides 1. Glucosans

The compound X present in the composition according to the invention may be a glucosane, chosen in particular from native or modified starches, dextrins and derivatives, celluloses and derivatives or fructans.

Native starches The starches which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α (1,4) bonds, of chemical formula (C6H10O5). The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 molecules of linearly-linked glucose, and amylopectin, a branched polymer, every 25 glucose residues, about 20 (α-linkage (1.6 The total chain can make between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd Edition, Volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

Chemical structure of starch: Dextrose Amylose

Amylopectin The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

Sometimes, there is presence of phytoglycogen (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

The starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in sheets, amylose forms a less well-organized amorphous zone between the different layers. Amyloidosis is organized into a right helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to enzymes. The starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles is from 3 to 100 microns. By treating it with hot water, we obtain the poisoning. It is used in the industry for its thickener and gelling properties. The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are for example 18 25

19 selected from starches of maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas.

The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Amilogel ™, Cargill Geit ™, C * Geit ™, Cargill Gum ™, Dry Geit ™, C * Pharm Geit ™ by the company Cargill, under the name Corn starch by Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches

The starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum), - acid hydrolysis causing a very rapid retrogradation on cooling, - oxidation by strong oxidants (alkaline medium, in the presence of sodium hypochlorite NaOCI for example) leading to the depolymerization of the starch molecule and the introduction of carboxyl groups in the starch molecule (mainly oxidation of the hydroxyl group in C6), - dextrinization in acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis then repolymerization), - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl groups and / or phosphate) - esterification in an alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl groups (acetyl), hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenyl succinic.

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). ) or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) 2) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are chosen in particular from compounds of the following formulas: ## STR2 ##

R 'R (I) 000M 1i CH CH-000M St-O- (CH2) nN

R "R 'R" N St-OCH 2 CH-000M St-O- (CH 2) n N 20

Wherein: St-O represents a starch molecule, R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R ', which is identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, R "represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 5,455,340 and 4,017,460, which are incorporated by reference.

The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as in particular corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Tex-Instant (pregelatinized adipate), C * StabiTex-Instant (pregelatinized phosphate), C * PolarTex-Instant (pregelatinized hydroxypropyl), C * Set (acid hydrolysis) , oxidation), C * size (oxidation), C * BatterCrisp (oxidation), C * DrySet (dextrinisation), C * TexTM (acetylated diamidon adipate), C * PolarTexTM (hydroxypropylated diamidon phosphate), C * StabiTexTM (phosphate) of diamidon, acetylated diamidon phosphate) by Cargill, diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized cornstarch) .35

As examples of oxidized starches, use will be made in particular those marketed under the name C * size of the company Cargill.

(Cvclo) dextrin and derivatives Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides composed of α (1,4) -linked glucopyranose subunits. These natural products resulting from the degradation of starch by the bacterium Bacillus macerans, were discovered in 1891 by Villiers. Three families are mainly used or studied a-, [3- and y-cyclodextrins according to which are formed of 6, 7 or 8 subunits (families of several tens of subunits were synthesized for research purposes). The crude formula of R-cyclodextrin is C42H70035, its molar mass is therefore 1134.98 gmol- ', its CAS number is 7585-39-9. Cyclodextrins are especially oligosaccharides of formula: ## STR2 ##

in which x may be a number equal to 4 (which corresponds to α-cyclodextrin), to 5 (6-cyclodextrin) or to 6 (γ-cyclodextrin).

Many derivatives can be obtained from natural cyclodextrins: the hydroxyl groups of the glucopyranose units can be amino, esterified or etherified. The synthesis of these derivatives is often intended to improve solubility. Among the most studied cyclodextrins are R-cyclodextrin (BCD, natural), hydroxypropyl-R-cyclodextrin (HPCD) and methyl-R-cyclodextrin (MCD).

It may especially be used a beta-cyclodextrin sold by Wacker under the name CAVAMAX W7 and a gamma-cyclodextrin sold by the company Wacker under the name CAVAMAX W8. The cyclodextrin derivatives are, for example, methyl cyclodextrins, such as methyl-beta-cyclodextrin marketed by Wacker under the name CAVASOL W7.

Cellulose and derivatives Compound X according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof in particular ethers or cellulose esters (eg methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate nitrocellulose).

The invention may also contain a cellulosic associative polymer. Cellulosic compound is understood to mean, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear chains of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues united by glycosidic linkages (3 (1,4) .The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. are in a chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6) The polymers thus formed associate with each other by intermolecular bonds of the hydrogen bonding type, conferring Thus a fibrillar structure with cellulose (about 1500 molecules per fiber) The degree of polymerization differs enormously according to the origin of cellulose, its value can vary from a few hundreds to a few tens of thousands.

Cellulose has the following chemical structure: ## STR3 ## The hydroxyl groups of the cellulose may partially or totally react with different chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having their own properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl celluloses such as

24 hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose mixed celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts. Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses which may or may not be crosslinked. The quaternizer may be especially glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium. Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates, or phosphates, etc.), the organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates). ) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate-butyrate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates.

The cellulosic compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

The celluloses and derivatives are represented for example by the products sold under the names Avicel (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, under the names Aqualon (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminate (methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

fructans

The compound X present in the composition according to the invention may in particular be a fructosan selected from among inulin and its derivatives (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).

Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 6 (2,1) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by (3 (2,6) bonds.) These products are levans The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, ie having sequences (3 (2,6) and (3 (2,1) These are essentially branched fructans as graminans.

The preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

The polysaccharides, in particular inulins, used in the compositions according to the invention can be hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan can in particular be linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains can in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide functions, such as in particular

Methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

In particular, the polysaccharide, especially inulin, has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups.

The inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Beneo ™ Inulin by the company Orafti and under the name Frutafit by the company Sensus. By way of nonlimiting illustration, hydrophobic modified inulins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard; and inulin lauryl carbamate such as that sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti.

Heterogeneous Polysaccharides: Gums The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for example cassia, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, acacia or arabic gum.

30 Gum arabic Gum arabic, of which the Senegalese gum (Acacia seyal, family Leguminosae) is the main variety, consists of a solid exudate of descending sap, amalgamated naturally or by incision, on the trunk and at the foot of trees, the family of acacias.

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-25

27 rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid. It is assumed that gum arabic consists of at least two polysaccharide fractions of different structures. The higher molecular weight fraction contains a modest amount of amino acids but is critical for its properties. The average molecular weight indicated varies between 200 and 300 kDa. Gum arabic is commercially available in the form of powder or unmilled crystals more or less round, yellow to white to yellowish brown in color. The outer surface of the crystals is matte and cracked and their breaks are glassy; they are also often crossed by fine cracks. The gum is bland and odorless. It is soluble in water, insoluble in alcohol.

Gum arabic is characterized by three main fractions, an arabinogalactan (AG) fraction with a very small protein fraction, representing 88% of the gum and having a molecular weight of 250,000 Da, an arabinogalactan-protein complex (AGP) having a high molecular weight (1.5 × 10 6) - protein complex (AGP) representing about 10% by weight of the gum, and a glycoprotein (GI) with a molecular weight of 200,000 Da, component 1.2% of the gum. The carbohydrate blocks (AG) are linked together by a main polypeptide chain. The carbohydrate blocks consist of a [3 (1,3) -linked galactopyranose skeleton, with numerous branching linked to [3 (1,6)) galactopyranose residues and containing arabinofuranose, arabinopyranose (Ara), rhamnopyranose sugars (Rha), glucuronic acids (GIcA) and 4-O-methylglucoronic acid. Gum arabic can be precipitated in the presence of trivalent cations and by salts such as silicates, borates and mercuric nitrate.

The gum arabic used for this invention is represented for example by the products sold under the name EficaciaTM by the company Colloides Naturels International, by the product sold under the name Gum Arabic quick Gum Type 8074 by the company Max Haenelt, by the product sold under the name Arabian Gum Powder 396D sold by Alland & Robert, by the product sold under the name Ticamulsion B-2001 by the company TIC Gums.

Gum tragacanth Gum tragacanth, also called tragacanth or dragon gum, is an exudate obtained from the dried mucilaginous sap of twenty species of plants of the

The genus Astracantha (formerly Astragalus) originates from south-eastern Europe and south-west Asia. This gum is a complex mixture of several polysaccharides. The two main fractions are tragacanthin (60-70%) and bassorine, also called "tragacanthic acid" (30-40%). In contact with water, tragacanthin dissolves to form a colloidal hydrosol, while the insoluble bassorine swells to form a gel. By using a small amount of water, an adhesive paste is obtained. The constituent sugar residues of this arabinogalactan are 75% of L-arabinose, 12% of D-galactose, 3% of D-galacturonic acid methyl ester and L-rhamnose.

The tragacanthic acid is water-soluble and consists of a (1,4) -linked α-D-galactopyranosyluronic acid backbone with short branches such as 8 (1,3) -linked D-xylopyranose residues. , 8 (1,3) -linked D-xylopyropyranosyl-1,2-α-lfucopyranose dimers, and 13 (1,3) -linked D-xylopyranose-1,2-d-galactopyranose dimers.

The constituent sugars of gum tragacanth are therefore in relative proportions 43% of D-galacturonic acid, 40% of D-xylose, 10% of L-fucose and 4% of D-galactose. The average molecular mass of tragacanthic acid is of the order of 840 000 Da.

Karaya gum Karaya gum is a partially acetylated, high molecular weight polysaccharide exuded by Sterculia trees (Urens and Setigera), one of the least water soluble natural gums. It swells to give a viscous colloidal dispersion. Karaya gum is a strongly acetylated acidic polysaccharide, with a skeleton consisting of alternating 1,4-linked (1-D) -d-galacturonopyranosyluronic acid units and (1,2) -linked 17α-L-rhamnopyranosyl residues. Groups of 8-D-galactopyranosyl and D-glucuronopyranosyluronic acid are connected to the oxygen (02 and 03) galacturonic acid residues, while half of the rhamnose residues are bound (in 04) to BD-residues. galactopyranosyl (1,4). The molecule also has 13% by weight of acetyl groups. The karaya gum is not very soluble in water, however, it swells easily in cold water to occupy several times its original volume, especially at small particle size (<200 mesh), giving a dispersion that appears homogeneous Karaya gum used for this invention is represented for example by the products sold under the names Gum Karaya Powder by the company Alland & Robert.

Galactomannans (guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (phosphated guar, hydroxypropyl guar, ..): Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen leguminous seeds which they constitute the carbohydrate reserve. Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of 6 (1,4) -linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing lateral branches consisting of a single unit D-galactopyranose linked in a (1,6) to the chain main. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of α-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of the distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose / galactose ratio (M / G) is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum. The guar molecule thus has on average twice as many branches as the carob. However, within the same sample, this ratio may vary depending on the fractions. Knowledge of the M / G ratio is one way of characterizing the sample although it does not inform the statistical distribution of galactosyl residues on the main chain.

The galactomannans have the following chemical structure: ## STR2 ## u - yyJ qqyy, {H y. ~. ## EQU1 ## ltu;? Fg: m. --r, 'ira pet The tara gum is characterized by a more statistically random distribution of the lateral chains while the carob is characterized by a non-statistically random and non-regular distribution, with alternating unsubstituted blocks of intermediate length (smooth regions). ) and branched blocks (hairy regions). Flour

30 of guar has very few smooth regions, with very regular distribution of side chains of galactose.

As for cellulose, the galactomannans that can be used according to the invention contain primary and secondary hydroxyl groups, which, in principle, can be derived and substituted. At the industrial level, only hydroxyalkyl derivatives, carboxymethyl and cationic derivatives, as well as partially depolymerized grades, are commercially available.

The hydroxyalkyl derivatives which can be used according to the invention are obtained for example by treating galactomannans with ethylene or with propylene oxide in an alkaline medium. These derivatives differ from the raw material in their faster hydration kinetics and better solubility.

The products that can be used according to the invention can also be carboxymethyl derivatives. These derivatives are obtained by "etherification" of a certain portion of the hydroxyl groups with hydrochloric acid or sodium chloroacetate. Unlike carboxymethylcelluloses, which are soluble only from degrees of substitution of 0.7 to 1.0, galactomannans (if not already soluble before chemical modification) become completely soluble at a degree of substitution of less than 0.05.

The products that can be used according to the invention can also be cationic derivatives. Cationic derivatives are obtained by treating galactomannans with appropriate organic amines such as 2-hydroxy-3-chloropropyltrimethylammonium chloride or its reaction product, 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is formed in an alkaline medium.

Finally, the products that can be used according to the invention can be partially depolymerized galactomannans, thus having reduced viscosities. These depolymerizations are obtained by acid hydrolysis, oxidation, or enzymatic degradation.

Guar Guar gum is characterized by a ratio of mannose: galactose of the order of 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The guar gums which may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic.

According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used.

The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro Guar by the company Danisco, under the name named VISCOGUMTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol guar gum by the company Aqualon.

The hydrolysed nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are for example represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor by Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a gum of guar modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The level of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by AQUALON.

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise a cationic galactomannan gum. Preferably the galactomannan gum is a cationic guar gum.

The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 1.5 meq / g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general terms, within the meaning of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.

The cationic galactomannan gums that can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, there may be mentioned very particularly trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, that is to say a gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, is preferably used. Example of a cationic guar structure: These galactomannan gums, in particular of guars modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are for example described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. such products are also sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Degussa, and under the name N-Hance 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum may represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulphene, phosphoric, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a salt of sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium. The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are preferably carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar). L Caroube

Locust bean gum is extracted from carob tree seeds (Ceratonia siliqua), which is an evergreen tree native to Syria and Asia Minor but grown throughout the Mediterranean coast.

Galactose sugars are also not evenly distributed along the chain, but tend to be grouped together in blocks. The chains have an irregular structure with "smooth" zones and alternately substituted zones. Locust bean gum useful in this invention can be chemically modified with the same chemical modifications as previously described for guar gum.

The unmodified carob gum which can be used in this invention is sold for example under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted LBG by the company Danisco. The chemically modified carob gums which can be used in this invention can be represented, for example, by the cationic carob sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

25 TARA rubber

The tara gum for use in this invention can be chemically modified with the same chemical modifications as previously described for guar gum. The Tara gum that can be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin. 34 10 30 35 Glucomannans (koniac manum):

Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 <2,000,000), composed of D-mannose units and D-glucose with a branch every 50 or 60 units or so. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the family Araceae.

Chemical Structure of the Konjac Gum The products that can be used according to the invention are for example sold under the name Propol and Rheolex by the company Shimizu.

Pectins LM and HM, and derivatives Pectins, or more broadly pectic substances, are polysaccharides, attached to carbohydrates. These are substances of exclusively vegetable origin. Pectin is present in large quantities in some algae, in pips and zests of gooseberry, apple, quince, lemon. The pectins are extracted from the raw material by solubilization in hot acid medium and then by precipitation in alcohol. The precipitate is then washed with a sodium hydroxide solution to obtain the desired pH. Pectins are polymers of acidic polysaccharides. The pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked at the 1 and 4 positions, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). The residues of L-rhamnose are found in all the pectins, integrated in the main chain in positions 1,2. They are at the origin of the nonlinear character of the main chain (cf chemical structure). Their molecular weight is of the order of 105 g / mol.

Chemical structure (polygalacturonic acid): Uronic acid molecules have carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions when they are in COO- form. Bivalent ions (especially calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules. In the natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The degree of natural esterification of a pectin can vary between 70 (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used. From pectins of high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH 3 groups, in order to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methylated monomers or not, the chain is therefore more or less acidic. HM pectins (High methoxy) having a degree of esterification greater than 50% and LM (Low Methoxy) pectins having a degree of esterification of less than 50% are thus defined. In the case of amidated pectins, the group OCH3 is substituted with a group -NH2. The degree of esterification influences the gelation properties of the HM pectins. The ester group is less hydrophilic than the acidic group, and therefore HM pectin (with a high degree of esterification) gels at a higher temperature than LM pectin (with a low degree of esterification). The difference is reflected in terms of fast, medium and slow gelation. The pectins are marketed by the company Cargill under the name UnipectineTM, by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENU, by Danisco under the name GRINSTED Pectin.

Other Polysaccharides: 3o Chitin, Chitosan and Derivatives

Among the polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of polysaccharides originating from the animal kingdom. This is for example the case of chitin, chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitine, etc.).

Chitin is an amino sugar, polysaccharide, made of acetylglucosamine (N-acetyl-D-glucose-2-amino) groups linked together by a bond of the type 13 (1,4). It is this type of bond that links the glucose groups in the cellulose molecule. The chemical name of the molecule is Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, 13 (1,4) -2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose.

Chitin is one of the constituents of the cuticle of insects, spiders and crustaceans, so it has a protective role. Associated with calcium carbonate, it becomes rigid and then forms the exoskeleton of crustaceans and all shelled animals such as snails.

Chitosan is a polysaccharide composed of the random distribution of R (1,4) linked D-glucosamine (deacetylated unit) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated unit). It is produced by chemical (alkaline) or enzymatic deacetylation of chitin, the component of the exoskeleton of arthropods (crustaceans) or the endoskeleton of cephalopods (calamari ...) or the wall of fungi.

This raw material is demineralized by treatment with hydrochloric acid, then deproteinized in the presence of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide and finally discolored with an oxidizing agent.

Chemical structure of chitosan: The degree of acetylation (DA) is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (TF-IR) or by titration by a strong base. The border between chitosan and chitin corresponds to a DA of 50%: on the other hand the compound is called chitosan, beyond, chitin. Chitosan is soluble in acidic medium unlike chitin which is insoluble. It is25

It is important to distinguish between the degree of acetylation (DA) and the degree of deacetylation (DD). One being the opposite of the other, that is to say that chitosan having an 85% DD, has 15% of acetyl groups and 85% of amine groups on its chains.

Chitin is a particularly effective moisturizing agent. Its advantage is twofold: it brings water and prevents dehydration. In addition, the great advantage of chitin and its derivatives is the persistence of this moisturizing power over time. Finally, chitosan forms on the surface of the skin a protective and tensor film, able to fix other active ingredients for the skin. Thus other moisturizing agents, sunscreens, organic acids or other active ingredients may be associated with chitin derivatives. Chitin would promote their effects.

The products that can be used according to the invention are, for example, those sold by France-Chitine.

Glycosaminoglycans (GAG) Hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate or heparin and heparan sulfate may be mentioned in particular.

The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention are also represented by glycosaminoglycans or glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). These polysaccharides have long been referred to as "acidic mucopolysaccharides" because of their strong water retention ("muco"), carbohydrate nature ("polysaccharides") and acidic nature derived from them. multiple negative charges ("acids"). It is indeed sulphated linear (unbranched) chains composed of the repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine (GIcN) or galactosamine (GaIN)) and another monosaccharide (glucuronic acid (GIcA), iduronic acid (IdoA), galactose (Gal)). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated (GIcNS) or N-acetylated (GlcNac). Galactosamine is always N-acetylated (GalNac).

They form important connective tissue components and account for about 30 percent of organic matter. GAG chains can be covalently linked to a protein to form proteoglycans. GAGs include chondroitin sulfate (elastic cartilage, hyaline cartilage, bone, dermis, cornea), dermatan sulfate (dermis, tendon, ligament, fibrous cartilage), keratan sulfate (cartilage, cornea), heparin / heparan sulfate (liver, lung, aorta), and hyaluronic acid.

On the one hand, we distinguish simple polymers which only have GIcA residues along their chain (hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate) and, on the other hand, copolymers comprising both residues of GIcA and IdoA (heparin). heparan sulfate and dermatan sulfate). There are also glucosaminoglycans of structure [UA-GIcN] n and galactosaminoglycans of structure [UA-GaIN] n.

Hyaluronic acid (from the Greek hyalos = vitreous + uronic because it was first isolated from the vitreous humor and has a high level of uronic acid) is a glycosaminoglycan distributed widely among the connective tissues, epithelial and nervous. It is found, for example, in vitreous humor and synovial fluid. It is one of the main components of the extracellular matrix. It contributes significantly to the proliferation and migration of cells. He may be involved in the progression of certain malignant tumors.

It is associated with a protein fraction to form a mucoprotein. Hyaluronic acid is a polymer of disaccharides, themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and D-N-acetylglucosamine, linked to each other by alternating glycoside bonds 3 (1,4) and [3 (1,3). The polymers of this repeating unit may have a size between 102 and 104 kDa in vivo.

Chemical structure of hyaluronic acid: ## STR2 ##

Hyaluronic acid is energy stable, in part because of the stereochemical aspects of the disaccharides that make it up. Hyaluronic acid is made up of about 50000 dissachable units, it is about the size of a bacterium and has a gel appearance.

Hyaluronic acid is mainly obtained, industrially, by two different processes: extraction of rooster ridges (after grinding, chemical treatment and purification), or bacterial fermentation (the hyaluronic acid filaments are synthesized by genetically modified bacteria) . Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Chondroitin sulfate, or chondroitin sulfate, is a glycosaminoglycan found in connective tissue. Chondroitin sulfate is a component of the cartilage matrix. Its function is to maintain osmotic pressure by absorbing water and helping to moisturize cartilage. It also contributes to the flexibility and elasticity of the bone. Most importantly, it serves as a chondroprotective agent in protecting the cartilage against enzymatic reactions and free radical damage (including nitric oxide released by chondrocytes). The basic unit of chondroitin sulfate is glucuronic acid [3 (1,3) N-acetyl galactosamine 6 sulfate. Each unit is connected to the next by a link [3 (1,4). Chondroitin sulfate varies in composition depending on the animal species even though the basic structure is essentially unchanged.

Chemical structure of chondroitin sulfate

N / A _ CH2C_ o 1 ° •, Q

## STR1 ## Heparin is a glycosaminoglycans (GAG) molecule and is formed from the dimer L-iduronic acid-2-O-sulfate (a (1,4) D-glucosamine N-sulphate, 6-O-sulphate a (1,4).

Chemical structure of heparin: ## STR2 ## According to a particular embodiment, the compound X is hyaluronic acid.

Xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives The flour contains fragments of the primary walls of the starchy albumen of wheat; they belong essentially to a family of polysaccharides: arabinoxylans. These are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name pentosan. The wheat grain arabinoxylan is composed of R-D-xylopyranose residues (Rodionova et al., 1992). The xylans consist of a main chain of 8 (1,4) linked D-xylose units on which there are three substitutes (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, α-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid. The arabinoxylan typically consists of 1500-5000 residues of α-L-arabinofuranose and D-xylopyranose (Chaplin, 2004). The presence of arabinose side chains reduces the interaction between chains because of their hydrophilic and flexible furanose conformation (Chaplin, 2004).

According to one particular embodiment, LM (low methoxy) pectins, such as those marketed by Cargill under the name UNIPECTINE OF 600C, are used.

According to a particular embodiment, the compound X is a polysaccharide prepared by microorganisms selected from xanthan, pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, succinoglycan, scleroglucan and their mixture. According to another embodiment, the compound X is a polysaccharide isolated from the algae chosen from galactans, furcellaran and their mixture.

In another embodiment, compound X is a polysaccharide of higher plants selected from homogeneous polysaccharides consisting of a single species of oses and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of monosaccharides.

According to one particular embodiment, the compound X is a homogeneous polysaccharide chosen from glucosans, fructosans and their mixture. According to one variant, the compound X is a glucosane chosen from native starches, modified starches, (cyclo) dextrin and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives.

According to another variant, the compound X is a fructosan selected from among inulin and its derivatives such as in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulin.

According to one particular embodiment, the compound X is a heterogeneous polysaccharide chosen from gums, galactomannans and their derivatives, LM and HM pectins and their derivatives, chitin, chitosan and their derivatives, glycosaminoglycans, xylans (poly C 5) and their derivatives.

In particular, compound X is a gum chosen from cassia gums, acacia gum or gum arabic, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, and their mixture. In another embodiment, the compound X is a galactomannan chosen from guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum and their derivatives from phosphated guar, hydroxypropyl guar and their mixture.

In yet another embodiment, the compound X is a polysaccharide selected from chitin, chitosan and derivatives, glycosaminoglycan, xylan and their mixture.

In a particular embodiment, the compound X is a glycosaminoglycan selected from hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate or heparin and heparan sulfate. The polysaccharide (s) (X) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight.

According to one particular mode, the polysaccharide (s) (X) will be present in the first composition in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular for the single-composition variants comprising X and Y and successive application of the first comprising X and the second composition comprising Y 'according to the invention

According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide (s) (X) will be present in the first composition in a content such that it will be at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and second composition, in particular for the extemporaneous mixing variant of the first composition comprising X and the second composition comprising Y 'before application.

II. The complexing agent (compound Y) The complexing agent Y is capable of complexing with the polysaccharide compound X by ionic bond formation or dative or complexing. This complexation is reversible. The complexing agent may be chosen in particular from polyelectrolytes, multivalent ions and their salts, in particular multivalent cation salts or polycations. It is preferably in water-soluble form in the second composition. The multivalent ions may in particular be cations such as polycations or multivalent cations, preferably having a valency ranging from 2 to 4 and more preferably divalent cations, in particular cations of calcium, magnesium, aluminum, barium, zinc, nickel, copper (+ II), manganese and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of the chlorides or sulphates of the cations mentioned above and in particular the chorides such as calcium chloride. As polyelectrolyte, polyethylene amine may be mentioned.

The reaction rate between the polysaccharide and the complexing agent can be modulated by modifying the pH and / or temperature conditions of the composition, or by adding, in the first and / or second composition, a compound for accelerating or delaying the reaction between the polysaccharide and the complexing agent.

This reaction is preferably carried out with mono- or multivalent ionic compounds, preferably multivalent, which can be chosen in particular from: carboxylates (such as oxalic acid, citric acid, mucic acid, EDTA or more generally polycarboxylic acid), Phosphate ions (eg Na3P3O3 -Sodium trimetaphosphate) or polyphosphates (such as sodium tripolyphosphate - TPP), - Monovalent (potassium) ions, divalent (calcium, aluminum, magnesium, cupric, ferrous manganese [Iron (II)], chromium [Cr (ll)]), or trivalent (ferric [Fe (III)], aluminum, chromium [Cr (III)]), or quadrivalent (zirconium [Zr (IV)], titanium [Ti (IV)]), Borate ions, such as sodium borate, lactate or zirconium titanate, Genipin (gardenia extract), polyamines such as polylysine, amphoteric compounds, such as amino acids (such as arginine) or proteins, - polysaccharides, distinct from the compound X, such as oxidized starch or chitosan, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the combinations of polysaccharide and complexing agent may in particular be: xanthan with divalent or trivalent ions (calcium, magnesium, chromium, ferrous), xanthan with borate ions (sodium, potassium), - The galactomanane (guar, carob ...) with borate ions in an alkaline medium, - The galactomanane (guar, carob ...) with lactates or zirconium titanate, - The galactomanane (guar, carob .. .) with aluminum ions - kappa-carrageenans with calcium or potassium ions,

Kappa-carrageenans with amphoteric compounds (in particular casein proteins or gelatin). - Iota-carrageenans with calcium, magnesium, ferrous ions - Gellan with divalent cations (such as calcium or magnesium, ferrous), - LM pectin (DE <50%) with calcium ions, - Scleroglucan with zirconium tetrachloride (Zr4 +) or titanium (Ti4 +) ions in the presence of lactic or malic acid, - Scleroglucan with borate or chromium ions in an alkaline medium, - Polysaccharides and in particular chitosan with polyphosphates (in particular Tri-polyphosphate), polysaccharides and in particular chitosan with Genipin, polysaccharides comprising amine functions (for example chitosan) with carboxylates (and in particular oxalic acid, citric acid, mucic acid, EDTA) or more generally polycarboxylic acids, - hyaluronic acid with trivalent ions, such as aluminum, - dextran with ferrous ions [Iron (II)] or cupric, - polysaccharides modified with carboxylate groups, such as carb oxymethylcellulose, with calcium or phosphate ions, - Polysaccharides modified with carboxylate groups, such as carboxymethylcellulose, with phosphate ions.

The complexing agent (Y) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably from 1% to 90%. and better from 2% to 50%. According to one particular embodiment, respective contents of compound X and compound Y are used such that the compound X / compound Y mass ratio is from 0.5 to 2.

In the case where the compound (s) X and / or Y are in gelled form at ambient temperature, a heating step may be necessary to fluidify them before mixing.

Aqueous phase

According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the first or second compositions according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. In particular, the composition (s) according to the invention comprises (nen) t an aqueous phase.

The composition (s) according to the invention comprises (nen) t water. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The composition (s) according to the invention may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; Glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as the mono, di or tri propylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono, di or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fraction of the aqueous phase comprises especially water and organic solvents miscible with water.

Preferably, the aqueous phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight. and preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent distinct from the polysaccharides described above. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose a gelling agent that will not interact with the polysaccharide and / or the complexing agent already present in the composition.

The hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the method ALLIED COLLOID company, UTRAHOLD 8 by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company Henkel, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type, - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the CLARIANT company, - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, - polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise), - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as that wheat protein, soy protein; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; optionally-modified polymers of natural origin, such as: gums arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum, alginates and carrageenans (the alginates being preferably used in the presence of salts such as calcium chloride), glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphates, acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

Vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; deoxyribonucleic acid; unmodified clays, in particular montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones and laponites, and mixtures thereof.

Some of these water-soluble gelling agents may also act as film-forming polymers.

The water-soluble gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

Flak phase The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising an oily phase.

By oily phase is meant all the oils present in the composition.

The oily phase may comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and their mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg) at ambient temperature ( 25 ° C).

These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. We mean by "oil30

Hydrocarbon ", an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof,

synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R, 000 R 2 in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 atoms of carbon provided R, + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, laurate of hexyl, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, palmitate 2-octyl-decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; the esters

Hydroxylated compounds such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls.

Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, preferably 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.

The oily phase of the composition (s) according to the invention may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

Preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 10% to 30% by weight.

Structuring agent

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. waxes

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a solid / liquid state change. reversible, having in particular a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, in particular greater than or equal to 45 ° C, and up to 250 ° C, in particular up to 230 ° C, and in particular up to 120 ° C. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by restoring the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed. The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C per minute. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, can be those used generally in the 3o cosmetic or dermatological domains. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

By way of non-limiting illustration of these waxes, mention may be made in particular of: - beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax; montan wax, waxes10

Microcrystallines, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides at 40 ° C and especially at above 45 ° C, - the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, - silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and mixtures thereof Wax (s) be present in the composition (s) according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, and better from 4 to 9% by weight. Aras pasty body

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least pasty fatty substance. Pasty fatty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound containing, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Said pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa. The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. preferably represents 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when

54 the whole of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

Paste bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or PDMSs. Lipophilic gelling agents

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. The gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As the mineral lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS.25

It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (R) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG by the company ARIZONA

56 CHEMICAL; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for example those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2- 8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains, and in particular C, to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel name such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

The structuring agent of the oily phase may be present in the composition (s) according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight.

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase formed of the oils and structuring agents described above, present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight.

Film-forming polymer At least one of the compositions according to the invention may comprise a film-forming polymer. According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer

57 capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

The film-forming polymer may be present in a solids content (or active materials) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight. and better from 1% to 15% by weight.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As monomer bearing an acid group, unsaturated α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid. The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 3-ethyl hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are (meth) acrylates

58 of alkyl. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanespolyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof. . The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. We use

Preferably a diol selected from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used. The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium NH4 'ion or a metal ion, such as for example an Na', Li +, K +, Mg2 + ion. , Cal +, Cul +, Fe2 +, Fei +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M. The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the first and / or second composition; the polymer is solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.

According to another variant, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

Examples of liposoluble polymers that may be mentioned include vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical). , from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (whose alkyl group has 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to carbonyl ester group).

These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate of vinyl vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraally loxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 2% divinyl benzene. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylpolate , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000. Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon. As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, there may be mentioned in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol . According to an advantageous embodiment, the first and / or second composition of the process according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer polyvinyl acetate.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, for example ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold

62 as "KF-7312J" by Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. No. 5,162,410. or the silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other. Such polymers are described for example in EP 1411069 or WO04 / 028488.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the first and / or second composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 by the company Avecianeurores Dow Latex 432 by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name JONCRYL by JOHNSON POLYMER or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the trade names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR-410, Avalure UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Sancure 861, Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM from Chimex and mixtures thereof. As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomere PAP from Chimex, particle dispersions of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function. Powdery phase

At least one of the first or second compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises a powdery phase comprising pigments, fillers and / or nacres.

According to one particular embodiment, this pulverulent phase represents at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

By pigments, it is necessary to understand particles; inorganic or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide.

The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amines; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

The pigments are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight.

In addition to the pigments, the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers and / or nacres.

By charges, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders, poly-8-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polymethylmethacrylates, polyurethane powders such as powder copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, copolymers of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders, in particular described in patent EP 293795, for example Toshiba's Tospearls) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, s glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulphate and their mixtures.

The fillers may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.

In addition to the pigments and fillers, the particulate phase of the invention may comprise nacres.

By nacres, it is necessary to include iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition. 35

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight.

The pulverulent phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, the pulverulent phase represents at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydro or liposoluble dye.

Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils. By water-soluble dyes, it is necessary to understand generally organic compounds soluble in water or water-miscible solvents.

Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, Purple D & C). No. 2, D & C orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a cosmetic additive such as surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers,

67 vitamins and filters especially solar.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the contemplated addition, in particular so as not to interfere with the reaction between compounds X and Y.

Galenic The composition (s) according to the invention may be independently in the form of a suspension, dispersion, solution, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, wax in-water or water-in-oil (W / O), or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, foam, dispersion of vesicles in particular ionic lipids or not, biphase lotion or multiphase, powder, paste, including soft paste.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have an aqueous continuous phase, and may preferably be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a wax-in-water emulsion, or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E), or aqueous solution.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W). The compositions comprising compounds X and Y may in particular be in liquid, solid or pasty form. It may in particular act stick, powders, gels or liquids. According to one particular embodiment, the kit according to the invention may comprise: a first composition in pulverulent form associated with a second liquid composition; or a first liquid composition or gel associated with a second liquid composition, or a first liquid composition or gel associated with a second powder composition, or a first solid composition such as a stick associated with a second liquid composition, or

68 - first liquid composition or gel associated with a second composition sprayed with a spray.

According to another preferred embodiment, when the second composition of the kit comprises the complexing agent, it may be in a sprayed form, in particular by a spray.

The method according to the invention can be advantageously used for the makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or nails depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the compositions of the process according to the invention can be independently present in the form of a solid foundation, a stick or a lipstick paste, a concealer product, or an eye or eye contour. liner, mascara, eye shadow, body make-up product or a skin coloring product.

According to one embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are lipstick compositions.

According to another embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are eyelash or eyebrow coating compositions and more particularly mascaras.

According to another preferred embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are compositions for coating the skin of the body or of the face, more particularly makeup compositions for the skin of the body or of the face, such as by example of foundations or makeup compositions of the body.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, the intended application for each composition.

According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said aqueous phase comprises water-miscible organic solvents chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; the polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms; the (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight. % by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent distinct from the polysaccharides (X).

In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, polyacrylic acids, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, sodium polymethacrylate, salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, AMPS (partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid), AMPS / acrylamide copolymers, and AMPS / methacrylate copolymers of polyoxyethylenated alkyl (crosslinked or otherwise), proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins, soya; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example 3o keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfones; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum, alginates and carrageenans (the alginates being used from

Preferably in the presence of salts such as calcium chloride), glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphate , acrylic polymers or copolymers, vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, vinyl acetate copolymer and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphate, unmodified clays and especially montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites, and mixtures thereof. 15

Preferably, the water-soluble gelling polymer is present in the composition in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises a fatty phase comprising an oily phase. In a preferred embodiment, the oily fatty phase comprises a non-volatile oil.

In particular, the non-volatile oil (s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have lengths of various chains of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, canola, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; butter 10 25

Shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixture.

In particular, the volatile oil (s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, such as isododecane, isohexadecane; volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyltrisiloxane; decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, said oily phase is present in a total content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% by weight. at 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

In particular, the wax is chosen from: - beeswax, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concretes at 40 ° C and in particular at more than 55 ° C, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil,

72 - Silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and - mixtures thereof

In particular, the wax is present in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 9% by weight.

Exfoliating films according to the invention The non-water-soluble film obtained by reaction between the polysaccharide X of the first composition described above and the complexing agent Y of the second composition described above can be easily peeled.

According to another embodiment, it can be cleansed.

For example, it may be removed with a sequestering agent (also called chelating agent) of the complexing agent of said polysaccharide.

This is why the invention also relates to a process for removing make-up and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application to the keratin materials of a first composition comprising at least one polysaccharide compound X, and a second composition comprising a Y complexing agent of said compound X, the process comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a make-up removing and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent.

After application of the make-up removing and / or cleaning composition to the makeup film obtained after application of first and second compositions, the sequestering agent is bonded with the complexing agent (in particular the multivalent ions) present in the complex complexing agent Y-compound polysaccharide X, resulting in the dissociation of said complex and the disintegration of the makeup film. The make-up removal of the complexed polysaccharide-based film can be carried out, for example, using a cotton swab soaked with a sequestering agent solution or else by peeling.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic kit comprising: a first composition comprising at least one polysaccharide compound X,

A second composition comprising a complexing agent Y of said compound X and a cleansing and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent. The first and second compositions are as described above.

The sequestering agent of the complexing agent is chosen in particular from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives. The salts include alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

The chelating agents may in particular be chosen from: aminocarboxylic acids (that is to say acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group) such as compounds having the following INCI name: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as OCTEL Octaquest E30, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N, N '-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA) N-2-hydroxyethyl N, N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfo nic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulphonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102),

74 beta-alanine-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), - acid-based chelators iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel - mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelators such as compounds with the following INCI name: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1 , 2-triphosphonic acid (E1HPT), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP), - chelants based on polyphosphoric acid such as poses having the following INCI name: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of carboxylated derivatives of fructan inulin (as for example those described in document US6280628.

Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylene triaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), S, S-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid are preferably used ( EDTMP), phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

The sequestering agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleansing and / or cleansing composition, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and better from 0.1 to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the sequestering agent is present in the form of an aqueous solution, that is to say that the cleansing and / or cleaning composition comprises an aqueous phase as defined above.

The invention is further illustrated by the examples described hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Simplex formulations were prepared in the form of aqueous solutions containing a test Y-polysaccharide, alone (control), or in combination with a complexing agent Y, respectively sodium borate or calcium chloride ions CaCl 2. And the formation of a film was observed and the properties of the film obtained were analyzed, in particular in terms of cohesion, resistance to deformation, and ease of being peeled.

The results are shown in the following table: Polysaccharide 1% aqueous solution polysaccharide 1% polysaccharide tested 1% + 1% borate + 1% CaCl 2 sodium polysaccharide Gum of cohesive film, very cohesive film and cohesive film and xanthan difficult to peel, without rigid, with an elastic, with a (Rhodicare XC resistance to high strength with low resistance to Rhodia) deformation, and very deformation deformation brittle Guar gum cohesive matte film, very cohesive film, cohesive satin film, (Guarjel de Lubrizol) very dry and rigid, rigid and brittle easy to peel, very low resistance to elastic and flexible deformation, brittle

These results show that the presence of a complexing agent Y, in association with an X polysaccharide, allows the formation of a film having better properties in terms of cohesion, resistance to deformation, and / or ease of being peeled. compared to tests without complexing agent Y. Example 2: Foundation kit

Composition A: Al Pectin LM (UNIPECTIN OF 600 C, Cargill) 4% Black Iron Oxide 0.05% Red Iron Oxide 0.34% Yellow Iron Oxide 1.03% Titanium Dioxide 8% Cetyl Phosphate Potassium (Rock Amphisol K) 4% Preservatives 0, 5% Water qs 100 A2 Beeswax 10%

20 Composition B Calcium Chloride 2H2O (Merck) Preservatives Water

For the preparation of Composition A, the pectin is solubilized in the aqueous phase with preservatives and potassium cetyl phosphate. Composition B is packaged in an aerosol / fogger. A layer of the composition A is then applied to the skin of the face and then the composition B is sprayed on the assembly using the aerosol. The film formed on the face by complexing pectin with calcium ions of CaCl 2 exhibits good water resistance. This film can be removed easily by peeling by pulling with your fingers, or using a cotton pad impregnated with a 1% aqueous EDTA solution. 3% 0.5 0/0 qs 100 35

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Kit for coating keratin materials comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ion complexing reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, and at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least 5 % of fillers and / or dyestuffs by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 2. Kit for coating keratin materials comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in a content of at least 1% by weight in the first composition or in a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition. 3. Coating kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound X is selected from polysaccharides from microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides of higher plants, and their mixture. 4. Kit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that: - polysaccharides from microorganisms are selected from xanthan, pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, succinoglycan, scleroglucan and their mixture - the polysaccharides isolated from algae are selected from galactannes, furcellaran and their mixture; the polysaccharides of the higher plants are chosen from among the homogeneous polysaccharides consisting of a single species of monosaccharides, such as glucosans, in particular native starches, modified starches, (cyclo) dextrin and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives; fructans, in particular inulin and its derivatives such as in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulin, and their mixture; and ob) heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of monosaccharides, such as gums, in particular cassia gums, acacia gum or gum arabic, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, and their mixture; galactomannans and their derivatives, in particular guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum and their derivatives among phosphated guar, hydroxypropyl guar and their mixture; LM and HM pectins and their derivatives; chitin, chitosan and their derivatives; glycosaminoglycans, in particular hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate or heparin and heparan sulfate; xylans (poly C-5) and their derivatives. 15 5. coating kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the complexing agent Y is selected from: - carboxylates (such as oxalic acid, citric, mucic, EDTA or more generally polycarboxylic acid) ) - Phosphate ions (for example, Na3P3O3 -Sodium trimetaphosphate) or polyphosphates (such as sodium tripolyphosphate - TPP), - Monovalent ions (potassium), divalent (calcium, aluminum, magnesium, cupric, ferrous manganese [Iron ( II)], chromium [Cr (ll)]), or trivalent (ferric [Fe (III)], aluminum, chromium [Cr (III)]), or quadrivalent (zirconium [Zr (IV)], titanium [Ti ( IV)]), 25 - Borate ions, such as sodium borate, - Zirconium lactate or titanate, - Genipin (gardenia extract), - Polyamines such as polylysine, - Amphoteric compounds, such as amino acids (such as arginine) or the 3o proteins, - the polysaccharides distinct from the compound X, such as starch oxidized or chitosan, and mixtures thereof. 35 6. Coating kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combinations of polysaccharide and complexing agent may in particular be: - Xanthan with divalent or trivalent ions, - Xanthan with ions borates, - The galactomanane (guar, carob ...) with borate ions in an alkaline medium, - The galactomanane (guar, carob ...) with lactates or zirconium titanate, - The galactomanane (guar, carob ... ) with aluminum ions - kappa-carrageenans with calcium or potassium ions, - kappa-carrageenans with amphoteric compounds (in particular casein proteins or gelatin). - Iota-carrageenans with calcium ions, - Gellan with divalent cations (such as calcium or magnesium), - LM pectin (DE <50%) with calcium ions, - Scleroglucan with tetrachloride ions zirconium (Zr4 +) or titanium (Ti4 +) in the presence of lactic or malic acid, - Scleroglucan with borate or chromium ions in an alkaline medium, - Polysaccharides and especially chitosan with polyphosphates (in particular Tri-polyphosphate), Polysaccharides and especially chitosan with Genipin; polysaccharides comprising amine functions (for example chitosan) with carboxylates (and in particular oxalic, citric, mucic acid, EDTA) or more generally polycarboxylic acids; Hyaluronic acid with trivalent ions, such as aluminum, - Dextran with ferrous [Iron (II)] or cupric ions, - Polysaccharides modified with carboxylate groups, such as carboxymethylcellulose, with calcium ions, - Polysaccharides modified with carboxylate groups, such as carboxymethylcellulose, with phosphate ions. 7. Coating kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound X represents from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, preferably from 1% to 20% and better still 1% to 10%. 8. coating kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound Y represents from 0.5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably from 1% to 90% and better from 2% to 50% .35 80 9. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and / or second compositions are packaged separately in the same packaging article. 10. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a third composition comprising a sequestering agent for removing the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of compounds X and Y. 11. Cosmetic coating composition of keratinous materials comprising at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compounds X and Y being as defined in any one of the preceding claims and the compound X being present in said composition in one content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film. 12. Cosmetic process for coating keratinous substances consisting of: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture. 13. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; Compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition, then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b of at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 15. A cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a polysaccharide, said compounds X and Y reacting together by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and 3o ambient temperature) so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said first composition. 16. A method for removing makeup and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application, on the keratin materials, via at least one composition, of at least one compound X and at least one compound Y as defined in the claims preceding, said compounds X and Y being capable of forming, by an ionic or dative complexation reaction 82 in situ at atmospheric pressure and at ambient temperature, a film, the process comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a makeup removing and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent, intended to dissolve said film.