WO2023137650A1 - Émulsion pour le traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux - Google Patents

Émulsion pour le traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023137650A1
WO2023137650A1 PCT/CN2022/072879 CN2022072879W WO2023137650A1 WO 2023137650 A1 WO2023137650 A1 WO 2023137650A1 CN 2022072879 W CN2022072879 W CN 2022072879W WO 2023137650 A1 WO2023137650 A1 WO 2023137650A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
hair
emulsion
scalp
betaine
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PCT/CN2022/072879
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English (en)
Inventor
Yan TU
Congying LIU
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Henkel (China) Investment Co., Ltd.
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Priority to PCT/CN2022/072879 priority Critical patent/WO2023137650A1/fr
Publication of WO2023137650A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023137650A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an emulsion for treating scalp and hair.
  • the emulsion contains: 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one clay, 0.1 to 20%by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one thickening agent, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one cationic emulsifier, 0.1 to 50%by weight of at least one hair conditioning agent, and 0.1 to 90%by weight of water, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the texture of current scalp treatment includes emulsion cream, gel, tonic and other textures, among which, cream texture is most welcomed by consumer due to its emulsion appearance. Moreover, scalp treatment having a cream texture also delivers the best scalp and hair care benefits compared with gel and tonic textures. However, one concern for existing scalp treatment having a cream texture is that the product has a lot of residues and is not easy to rinse off.
  • the emulsion should have less residues, be easy to rinse off, have good scalp caring benefits such as oil control, soothing and deep cleansing, and good hair conditioning performance such as increasing hair smoothness, softness, gloss and volume.
  • an emulsion for treating scalp and hair containing: 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one clay, 0.1 to 20%by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one thickening agent, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one cationic emulsifier, 0.1 to 50%by weight of at least one hair conditioning agent, and 0.1 to 90%by weight of water, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • a method for preparing the emulsion of the present invention comprising: mixing the at least one clay, the at least one nonionic surfactant and/or the at least one amphoteric surfactant, the at least one thickening agent, the at least one cationic emulsifier, the at least one hair conditioning agent and water while being heated to 80 to 85°C, to obtain an emulsion phase.
  • a method for treating scalp and hair with the emulsion of the present invention comprising the following steps: wetting the hair with water, applying a shampoo onto the hair, massaging the scalp and the hair, and then rinsing the shampoo out of the hair with water; and then applying the emulsion to the scalp and hair, massaging the scalp and the hair, and then rinsing the emulsion out of the scalp and hair with water.
  • the emulsion for treating scalp and hair has less residues, is easy to rinse off, has good scalp caring benefits such as oil control, soothing and deep cleansing, and good hair conditioning performance such as increasing hair smoothness softness, gloss and volume.
  • an emulsion for treating scalp and hair containing: 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one clay, 0.1 to 20%by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one thickening agent, 0.1 to 30%by weight of at least one cationic emulsifier, 0.1 to 50%by weight of at least one hair conditioning agent, and 0.1 to 90%by weight of water, based on the total weight of the emulsion, has less residues, is easy to rinse off, has good scalp caring benefits such as oil control, soothing and deep cleansing, and good hair conditioning performance such as increasing hair smoothness softness, gloss and volume.
  • clay refers to any natural clay which can be conventionally used in cosmetics.
  • the natural clay refers to natural minerals derived from sedimentary rocks that have undergone the processes of erosion and exposure to climate for thousands of years, which are composed of extremely fine particles of silicates and several trace elements, and it may contain different types or concentrations of the following metals: titanium, magnesium, copper, zinc, aluminum, calcium, potassium, nickel, manganese, lithium, sodium or iron.
  • the clay is selected from the group consisting of kaolin, bentonite, Heilmoor clay, Hokkaido Akan clay, diatomaceous earth, solum diatomeae, loess, activated clay, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-90 bentonite, Canadian colloidal clay, montmorillonite,ixie lava clay, fuller’s earth and tanakura clay.
  • the clay is selected from the group consisting of kaolin and bentonite. More preferably, the clay is kaolin.
  • the content of the at least one clay is 0.1 to 30%by weight, preferably 1 to 20%by weight, more preferably 2 to 10%by weight, most preferably 4 to 8%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 30%by weight, it will be difficult for the clay powder to be dispersed in the emulsion, and the stability of the product will be decreased; even if the clay powder can be dispersed in the emulsion, it will be difficult for the product obtained to be applied on the scalp; and even if the product can be applied on the scalp, the scalp will be over-cleaned and become dry. If said content is lower than 0.1%by weight, the clay cannot effectively absorb excess scalp sebum, and remove dead skin cells and dirt that block pores on scalp.
  • nonionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising a nonionic hydrophilic group, i.e. a group having no electric charge.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides in the present invention is a compound formed by connecting a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide and a higher alcohol through a glycosidic bond.
  • the alkyl polyglycoside functions as a non-ionic surfactant having a lipophilic alkyl group and a water-soluble sugar part.
  • a compound formed by connecting a monosaccharide and a higher alcohol through a glycosidic bond is idiomatically included in an alkyl polyglycoside.
  • alkyl polyglycoside usable in the present invention may be described as "an alkylmonoglycoside and/or an alkylpolyglycoside” or "at least one of an alkylmonoglycoside and an alkylpolyglycoside” .
  • Alkyl polyglycoside (APG) used in the present invention may be used without any particular limitation, as far as the compound is conventionally employed in preparation of cosmetics.
  • Alkyl polyglycoside (APG) include Coco-Glucoside or Capryl-Glucoside (example Plantacare 818 UP by BASF) or Lauryl-Glucoside (example Plantacare 1200 UP by BASF) or decyl-Glucoside (example Plantacare 2000 UP by BASF) or a fatty acids derivate-Glucosides being the fatty acid a natural one going from C2 to C36 and more preferably from C4 to C24.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides are selected from the group consisting of C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, coco-glucoside and lauryl glucoside.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is coco-glucoside.
  • amphoteric surfactant also known as a “zwitterionic surfactant”
  • amphoteric surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising a hydrophilic group with both cationic and anionic groups.
  • amphoteric surfactant may be a betaine, a hydroxysultaine, a diacetate, an acetate, or a combination thereof.
  • the amphoteric surfactants may be in the form of a salt, for example a sodium salt, a disodium salt and/or a magnesium salt.
  • the amphoteric surfactant may have a hydrophobic chain of C8-C30, C10-C28, C12-C26, C10-C18, C12-C24, or C12-18.
  • the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, soyamidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine, myristyl betaine, behenyl betaine, wheat germamidopropyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betamine, coco-betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, oleamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine and lauramidopropyl betaine. More preferably, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • amphoteric surfactant examples include, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, which is available under the trade name of Cocamidopropyl betaine 40%from Evonik; coco-betaine, which is available under the trade name of Dehyton AB 30 from BASF; lauramidopropyl betaine, which is available under the trade name of Mackam DAB ULS MB from Solvay; and cocoamidopropyl betaine, which is available under the trade name of Cocoamidopropylbetaine, 37%, acidic.
  • cocamidopropyl betaine which is available under the trade name of Cocamidopropyl betaine 40%from Evonik
  • coco-betaine which is available under the trade name of Dehyton AB 30 from BASF
  • lauramidopropyl betaine which is available under the trade name of Mackam DAB ULS MB from Solvay
  • cocoamidopropyl betaine which is available under the trade name of Cocoamidopropylbetaine, 37%, acidic
  • Nonionic surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactant are nonionic surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactant
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant are preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides and betaines. More preferably, the at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant are selected from the group consisting of C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, soyamidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine, myristyl betaine, behenyl betaine, wheat germamidopropyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betamine, coco-betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, oleamidoprop
  • the content of the at least one nonionic surfactant and/or at least one amphoteric surfactant is 0.1 to 20%by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10%by weight, more preferably 1 to 7%by weight, most preferably 3 to 6%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 20%by weight, the stability of the emulsion will be decreased, for example the viscosity of the emulsion will be decreased; and the conditioning performance on hair will be decreased. If said content is lower than 0.1%by weight, the effects of the emulsion, such as cleansing effect, being easily rinsed off, and less residue on scalp, cannot be achieved.
  • the term “thickening agent” is intended to mean any agent which can increase the viscosity of the emulsion of the present invention.
  • the at least one thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, and glycol distearate. More preferably, the at least one thickening agent is ceteary alcohol.
  • Examples of commercially available thickening agent according to the present invention include, for example, cetyl alchohol, which is available under the trade name of Lanette 16/MB from BASF; stearyl alcohol, which is available under the trade name of Lanette 18 from BASF; behenyl alcohol, which is available under the trade name of Lanette 22 from BASF; arachidyl alcohol, which is available under the trade name of NACOL 20-95 from Sasol Chemicals; cetearyl alcohol, which is available under the trade name of Lanette O/MB from BASF or under the trade name of NAFOL 1618 S from Sasol Chemicals.
  • cetyl alchohol which is available under the trade name of Lanette 16/MB from BASF
  • stearyl alcohol which is available under the trade name of Lanette 18 from BASF
  • behenyl alcohol which is available under the trade name of Lanette 22 from BASF
  • arachidyl alcohol which is available under the trade name of NACOL 20-95 from Sasol Chemicals
  • cetearyl alcohol which is available under
  • the content of the at least one thickening agent is 0.1 to 30%by weight, preferably 1 to 15%by weight, more preferably 2 to10%by weight, most preferably 3 to 9%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 30%by weight, the viscosity of the emulsion will be too high, so that the emulsion cannot be applied on the scalp; and even if the emulsion can be applied on the scalp, its performances on scalp and hair will be decreased.
  • the viscosity of the emulsion will be too low, so that the emulsion will be easily flowed out from package and flowed on scalp and hair; the stability of the emulsion will be decreased, for example, the emulsion may have separated layers; and the suspension and dispersion of clay in the emulsion will be deteriorated, for example, the emulsion may have precipitation.
  • the cationic emulsifier can be any cationic emulsifier which can be used in cosmetic.
  • the cationic emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cationic quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • Suitable cationic emulsifiers include cationic quaternary ammonium salts. Examples of such salts include those having the following formula:
  • N + is a positively charged nitrogen atom
  • R1 is an aliphatic group of C 1-22 alkyl, or aryl (such as phenyl) , or alkyl-aryl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • R2 and R3 are each independently an aliphatic group having C 1-22 alkyl
  • R4 is a C 1-3 alkyl group
  • X - is an anion selected from halogen (such as CI - ) , acetate, phosphate, nitrate and methyl sulfate radicals.
  • the aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon atoms, ether linkages as well as amide groups.
  • Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds may be mono-long chain alkyl, di-long chain alkyl, tri-long chain alkyl, and the like.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of the above formula examples include benzalkonium chloride, benzyl triethyl ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) , behentrimmonium chloride (BTAC) and cetylpyridinium chloride.
  • the at least one cationic emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate. Most preferably, the at least one cationic emulsifier is behentrimonium chloride.
  • Examples of commercially available cationic emulsifier according to the present invention include, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, which is available under the trade name of Lexamine S-13 /Tego Amid S 18 from Evonik Specialty Chemicals (Shanghai) ; behentrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of GENAMIN KDMP from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of Quartamin BTC-131 from KAO Chemicals GmbH /Division; cetrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of Dehyquart A CA from BASF SE; steartrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of STAC 808KC /Genamin STAC from Clariant GmbH; and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, which is available under the trade name of Dehyquart F 75 T from BASF SE.
  • the content of the at least one cationic emulsifier is 0.1 to 30%by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10%by weight, more preferably 0.15 to 1%by weight, most preferably 0.2 to 0.5%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 30%by weight, the viscosity of the emulsion will be too high, so that the emulsion cannot be applied on the scalp; and even if the emulsion can be applied on the scalp, its performances on scalp and hair will be decreased, for example, the scalp will be irritated.
  • the viscosity of the emulsion will be too low, so that the emulsion will be easily flowed out from package and flowed on scalp and hair; the stability of the emulsion will be decreased, for example, the emulsion may have separated layers, water phase and oil phase; and the suspension and dispersion of clay in the emulsion will be deteriorated, for example, the emulsion may have precipitation.
  • the hair conditioning agent can be any one which can be used in the present invention.
  • the at least one hair conditioning agent can be selected from the group consisting of alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamines, polyols, quaternary ammonium salts, cationic polymers, and silicone oils.
  • the quaternary ammonium salts may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, quaternium-91, cetrimonium methosulate, and quaternium-87;
  • the cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of acrylamidopropyltrimonium, chloride/acrylamide copolymer, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-37, dicaprylyl carbonate, lauryl glucoside, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-37, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-22, hydroxypropyl guar, polyquaternium-16, and polyquaternium-46; and the silicone oil is used for reparing damanged hair, and making the
  • the alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamines may preferably be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, quaternium-91, cetrimonium methosulfate, and quaternium-87.
  • polyol means an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • the polyol (s) that may be used according to the invention comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyol (s) that may be used according to the invention generally comprise at least three carbon atoms.
  • said polyol (s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and ethylene glycol, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the at least one hair conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, glycerin, octyldodecanol, and isopropyl myristate. More preferably, the at least one hair conditioning agent is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and/or glycerin. Most preferably, the at least one hair conditioning agent is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and glycerin.
  • Examples of commercially available hair conditioning agent according to the present invention include, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, which is available under the trade name of Lexamine S-13 /Tego Amid S 18 from BASF; behentrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of GENAMIN KDMP from Evonik; behenoyl PG-Trimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of Quartamin BTC-131 from KAO; cetrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of Dehyquart A CA from BASF; steartrimonium chloride, which is available under the trade name of STAC 808KC /Genamin STAC from BASF SE; the combination of quaternium-91, cetearyl alcohol and cetrimonium methosulfate, which is avialble under the trade name of Crodazosoft DBQ from Croda GmbH /Crodarom Division; and the combination of quaternium-87 and propylene glycol, which is available under
  • the content of the at least one hair conditioning agent is 0.1 to 50%by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30%by weight, more preferably 1 to 15%by weight, most preferably 2 to 13%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 50%by weight, the viscosity of the emulsion will be too high, so that the emulsion cannot be applied on the scalp; and even if the emulsion can be applied on the scalp, its performances on scalp and hair will be decreased, for example, the scalp will be irritated, the emulsion will be too sticky and have much residues on scalp and hair.
  • said content is lower than 0.1%by weight, the suspension and dispersion of clay during the manufacture process will be negatively affected; the viscosity of the emulsion will be too high, so that the emulsion cannot be applied on the scalp; even if the emulsion can be applied on the scalp, its performances on scalp and hair will be decreased, for example, the emulsion cannot effectively repair the damaged hair, the hair will be less smooth and less soft, and the scalp will become dry and less nourish.
  • the at least one hair conditioning agent contains an alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and a polyol, wherein the content of the alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamine is preferably 0.1 to 30%by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10%by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and the content of the polyol is preferably 0.1 to 30%by weight, more preferably 1 to 20%by weight, and most preferably 5 to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • thee at least one hair conditioning agent contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and glycerin, wherein the content of the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is preferably 0.1 to 30%by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10%by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 5%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and the content of the glycerin is preferably 0.1 to 30%by weight, more preferably 1 to 20%by weight, and most preferably 5 to 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • water may be demineralized water, deionized water, distilled water and/or tapping water.
  • water is demineralized water.
  • the content of water is 0.1 to 90%by weight, preferably 30 to 85%by weight, more preferably 50 to 80%by weight, most preferably 65 to 78%by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If said content is higher than 90 wt. %, the viscosity of the emulsion will be too low, so that the emulsion will be easily flowed out from package and flowed on scalp and hair; the stability of the emulsion will be decreased, for example, the emulsion may have separated layers; and the suspension and dispersion of clay in the emulsion will be deteriorated, for example, the emulsion may have precipitation. If said content is lower than 0.1 wt. %, the viscosity of the emulsion will be too high, so that the emulsion cannot be applied on the scalp; and even if the emulsion can be applied on the scalp, its performances on scalp and hair will be decreased.
  • the emulsion for treating scalp and hair of the present invention may further comprise one or more additives besides those described above.
  • the emulsion for treating scalp and hair of the present invention may comprise an additive selected from the group consisting of perfume, solvent other than water, preservative and emollient.
  • the perfume which can be used in the practice of the present invention can be any perfume conventionally used in the cosmetic..
  • the content of the perfume is 0.1 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 1 wt. %, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the solvent other than water is preferably selected from the group consisting of 2-octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and dicaprylyl carbonate. More preferably, the solvent other than water is 2-octyldodecanol.
  • the content of the solvent other than water is 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 1 to 10 wt. %, and more preferably 1.5 to 5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the emulsion for treating scalp and hair.
  • the preservative can be any one which can be conventionally used in cosmetics.
  • the preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, tropolone, methylbenzyl alcohol, hydroxyacetophenone and decylene glycol.
  • Examples of commercially available preservative according to the present invention include, for example, caprylyl glycol, which is available under the trade name of SymDiol 68 from Symrise; the combination of phenoxyethanol and decylene glycol, which is available under the trade name of SymOcide PS from Symrise; the combination of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, which is available under the trade name of Euxyl PE9010 from Inter-Harz GmbH Elmshorn; decylene glycol, which is available under the trade name of SymClariol from Symrise; pentylene glycol, which is available under the trade name of Hydrolite 5 from Symrise; caprylyl glycol, which is available under the trade name of Hydrolite CG/8 from Symrise; the combination of caprylyl glycol and tropolone, which is available under the trade name of SymDiol 68T from Symrise; hydroxyacetophenone, which is available under the trade name of Sym
  • the content of the preservative is 0.1 to 1 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 0.9 wt. %, and more preferably 0.3 to 0.8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the emulsion for treating scalp and hair.
  • the emollient may be polyhydric alcohols and esters; and it can help to the dispersion of clay in the process, and provide moisturizing performance to the scalp so as to achieve the effects of oil control and moisturization.
  • the emollient may be selected from glycerin, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, PEG-8, sorbitol, isopropyl myristate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cocoamine oxide, octyldodecyl stearate, dicaprylyl carbonate and isopropyl palmitate.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention can be made by any appropriate method. There are no particular restrictions on the production methods of the emulsion of the present invention, as long as the method complies with a conventional method for producing the emulsion.
  • the method for preparing the emulsion comprises: mixing the at least one clay, the at least one nonionic surfactant and/or the at least one amphoteric surfactant, the at least one thickening agent, the at least one cationic emulsifier, the at least one hair conditioning agent and water while being heated to 80 to 85°C, to obtain an emulsion phase.
  • the method further comprises: reducing the temperature of the emulsion phase to be lower than 40°C, and then adding the optional additives, such as perfume, solvent other than water, and preservative.
  • the present invention provides a method for treating scalp and hair with the emulsion according to the present invention, comprising the following steps: wetting the hair with water, applying a shampoo onto the hair, massaging the scalp and the hair, and then rinsing the shampoo out of the hair with water; and then applying the emulsion to the scalp and hair, massaging the scalp and the hair, and then rinsing the emulsion out of the scalp and hair with water.
  • the present invention provides a use of the emulsion according to the present invention for treating scalp and hair, preferably for increasing scalp oil control, hair volume and lightness of dry hair, shine of dry hair, and/or reducing residue after rinse out.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention has less residues, is easy to rinse off, has good scalp caring benefits such as oil control, soothing and deep cleaning, and good hair conditioning performance such as increasing hair smoothness, softness, gloss and volume.
  • the emulsions of Samples 1-3 were prepared by mixing all the materials in the first group in the amounts listed in the table 1 below to obtain an oil phase, mixing all the materials in the second group in the amounts listed in the following tables to obtain a water phase, mixing all the materials in the third group in the amounts listed in the following tables to obtain a third phase, mixing the oil phase with the water phase while being heated to 80 to 85°C to obtain an emulsion phase, reducing the temperature of the emulsion phase to be lower than 40°C, and adding the third phase into the emulsion phase while stirring to obtain an emulsion.
  • the test was conducted between a group of persons who were applied merely with a shampoo (Schwarzkopf Volume Fortify Shampoo, obtained from Henkel) and a group of person who were applied with the neutral shampoo and then Sample 2 (i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention) .
  • each group includes 22 persons; both groups of persons were applied with the shampoo 3 times for one week (once every 2-3 days) on the whole head as follows: 9 ml of shampoo was applied on wet hair, the hair was lathered and rinsed, 6 ml of shampoo was applied on wet hair, and the hair was lathered and rinsed; and then, one group of persons were applied with Sample 2 as follows: the scalp was divided into 4 areas, 2 g Sample 2 was applied on each area of the wet scalp, the scalp and hair root with Sample 2 was massaged for 3-5 minutes until full coverage of the scalp, and then Sample 2 was rinsed off from the scalp and hair.
  • MB560 which was available from CK company, German, was used to evaluate the content of sebum at the vertex on the scalp.
  • the tape application was taken 1 time for each area, with 1 minute contact of tape and scalp.
  • the measurement of each tape was taken 5 times, in which the average of the 2 closest values was used as a representative data of the test area; and the measurement was done for each person at 0 h as baseline and at T24h.
  • the test was conducted between a group of persons who were applied with a neutral shampoo (Schwarzkopf Volume Fortify Shampoo, obtained from Henkel) and then Sample 2 (i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention) , and a group of person who were applied with the neutral shampoo and then Sample 3 (i.e. an emulsion containing no clay) .
  • a neutral shampoo Korean Health Standard
  • Sample 2 i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention
  • Sample 3 i.e. an emulsion containing no clay
  • each group includes 22 persons; both groups of persons were applied with the neutral shampoo 3 times for one week (once every 2-3 days) on the whole head as follows: 9 ml of shampoo was applied on wet hair, the hair was lathered and rinsed, 6 ml of shampoo was applied on wet hair, and the hair was lathered and rinsed; and then, one group of persons were applied with Sample 2 and the other group of persons were applied with Sample 3 as follows: the scalp was divided into 4 areas, 2 g Sample 2 or Sample 3 was applied on each area of the wet scalp, the scalp and hair root with Sample 2 or Sample 3 was massaged for 3-5 minutes until full coverage of the scalp, and then Sample 2 or Sample 3 was rinsed off from the scalp and hair.
  • a camera was used to capture 2D black &white images of the hair strands before and after the above applications.
  • the volumes of the hair strands were determined from the mean value of the projected area of the strand under 4 angles (0°, 30°, 60°, 90°) before the above application and that after the above application according to the equation below:
  • Area ref refers to the projected area of the hair strand before the application of the neutral shampoo
  • Area treated refers to the projected area of the hair strand after the application of Sample 2 or Sample 3.
  • the test results show that, when the neutral shampoo and then Sample 2 were applied, the hair volume was increased by 50%, compared with when the neutral shampoo and then Sample 3 were applied. It indicates that the emulsion containing clay according to the present invention significantly increased hair volume.
  • the test was conducted between a group of persons who were applied with Sample 1 (i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention) , and a group of person who were applied with Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment, which was obtained from Kao.
  • Sample 1 i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention
  • Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment which was obtained from Kao.
  • test was a blind half head salon test included 6 models, and was carried out as follows: one half of head was applied with Sample 1, and another half of head was applied with Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment; and when both Sample 1 and Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment were blindly numbered, their performances on scalp and hair were tested.
  • Sample 1 and Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment were applied as follows: full heads of the persons tested were shampooed with 8g of standard shampoo (Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure Time Restore Shampoo, obtained from Henkel) twice, 15g of Sample 1 or Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment was applied on each half of the heads with brush and bowl to the scalp, the heads were massaged, Sample 1 or Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment was emulsified to mild-length and ends on hair and then was left stand for 5 to 10 minutes, and finally the heads were rinsed thoroughly.
  • test results show that, when Sample 1 was applied, the emulsion showed better spreadability on scalp, less residues, better scalp cleansing effect and better scalp feeling, compared with when Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment was applied. It indicates that the emulsion containing clay according to the present invention exhibited better spreadability on scalp, less residues, better scalp cleansing effect and better scalp feeling than commercially available products.
  • the test was conducted between a group of persons who were applied with Sample 1 (i.e. an emulsion containing clay and surfactant according to the present invention) , and a group of person who were applied with Composition A, which was prepared from 2.5 g 2-octyldodecanol, 5 g cetearyl alcohol, 1 g stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, 0.3 g behentrimonium chloride, 5 g kaolin, 8 g glycerin, 0.6 g perfume, 0.4 g phenoxyethanol and to 100 g demineralized water.
  • Sample 1 i.e. an emulsion containing clay and surfactant according to the present invention
  • Composition A which was prepared from 2.5 g 2-octyldodecanol, 5 g cetearyl alcohol, 1 g stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, 0.3 g behentrimonium chloride, 5 g kaolin, 8 g glycerin
  • Example 4 The test was carried out exactly the same as that in Example 4, except that instead of Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment product, Composition A was used.
  • the test results show that, when Sample 1 was applied, the residues on scalp and hair were reduced by 33.3%, the overburdening feeling was reduced by 20.1%and lightness of dry hair was increased by 50%, compared with when Composition A was applied. It indicates that the emulsion containing clay and surfactant according to the present invention exhibited less residues on scalp and hair, less overburdening feeling and more lightness of dry hair than Composition A, which was not an emulsion according to the present invention.
  • the test was conducted between a group of persons who were applied with Sample 1 (i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention) , and a group of person who were applied with Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment, which was obtained from Kao.
  • Sample 1 i.e. an emulsion containing clay according to the present invention
  • Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment which was obtained from Kao.
  • the hairs and scalps were evaluated by one professional hair dresser with scalp microscope machine (type: skin run) as follows: dividing a hair slit at a fixed position on the top of the head with a comb, taking pictures symmetrically on the left and right sides, taking three points for each picture, using ImageJ to analysis the scalp condition, and judging the scalp and hair condition by one professional evaluator.
  • test results show that, when Sample 1 was applied, the emulsion showed better spreadability on scalp, less residues, better scalp cleansing effect and better scalp feeling, compared with when Kao Ines Thalasso Spa Cream Massage Treatment was applied. It indicates that the emulsion containing clay according to the present invention exhibited better spreadability on scalp, less residues, better scalp cleansing effect and better scalp feeling than commercially available products.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une émulsion pour le traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux, contenant : 0,1 à 30% en poids d'au moins une argile, 0,1 à 20% en poids d'au moins un tensioactif non ionique et/ou d'au moins un tensioactif amphotère, 0,1 à 30% en poids d'au moins un agent épaississant, 0,1 à 30% en poids d'au moins un émulsifiant cationique, 0,1 à 50% en poids d'au moins un agent de conditionnement capillaire, et 0,1 à 90% en poids d'eau, par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion. L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation de l'émulsion, un procédé de traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux avec l'émulsion et une utilisation de l'émulsion pour le traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux.
PCT/CN2022/072879 2022-01-20 2022-01-20 Émulsion pour le traitement du cuir chevelu et des cheveux WO2023137650A1 (fr)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH05246824A (ja) * 1991-12-20 1993-09-24 Shiseido Co Ltd 毛髪化粧料
US5846549A (en) * 1994-03-22 1998-12-08 L'oreal Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising clay
WO2005034895A1 (fr) * 2003-10-10 2005-04-21 Frenchtop Natural Care Products B.V. Composition pour le lavage des cheveux et du corps
US20060134154A1 (en) * 2002-09-04 2006-06-22 Giles Colin C Hair treatment composition
WO2008019917A1 (fr) * 2006-08-16 2008-02-21 Unilever Plc Composition pour le traitement des cheveux
US20200170894A1 (en) * 2018-11-29 2020-06-04 L'oreal Thick cleansing compositions

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH05246824A (ja) * 1991-12-20 1993-09-24 Shiseido Co Ltd 毛髪化粧料
US5846549A (en) * 1994-03-22 1998-12-08 L'oreal Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising clay
US20060134154A1 (en) * 2002-09-04 2006-06-22 Giles Colin C Hair treatment composition
WO2005034895A1 (fr) * 2003-10-10 2005-04-21 Frenchtop Natural Care Products B.V. Composition pour le lavage des cheveux et du corps
WO2008019917A1 (fr) * 2006-08-16 2008-02-21 Unilever Plc Composition pour le traitement des cheveux
US20200170894A1 (en) * 2018-11-29 2020-06-04 L'oreal Thick cleansing compositions

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