WO2023126397A1

WO2023126397A1 - Kit for customizing a cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2023126397A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/087867
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sandrine Olivier-Mabilais; Xavier Ray; Eric Quemin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-12-31
Filing date: 2022-12-27
Publication date: 2023-07-06
Also published as: FR3131529A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a block formulation kit; and its use for preparing cosmetic compositions with varied and customized textures.

Description

Kit for customizing a cosmetic composition

Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to a kit for customizing cosmetic compositions; in particular a block formulation kit; and its use for preparing cosmetic compositions with varied and customized textures.

Context of the invention

New digital technologies mark the advent of hyper-customized cosmetics. Thus, new launches of "customization" type cosmetic products are based for example on a novel mixing device, on a novel digital application, on a novel skin diagnostic method or on a method for determining the color of a cosmetic product which matches a user's skin color. Several models coexist. There are particularly "homemade" cosmetics, where consumers produce their beauty products themselves, for example using boxes of ingredients. Customized products can be homemade, by mixing the ingredients by hand or with tools such as a spoon, spatula, whisk, or using a mixer. The most conventional customization in cosmetics is "mixology" which consists of mixing different ingredients with a method very often with heating and low-energy mixing equipment such as a hand whisk. The diversity of raw materials, the complexity of the handling thereof and following a specific recipe makes the approach tedious and does not make it possible to obtain a homogeneous and effective mixture close to industrial quality.

Moreover, the customization approach at an industrial level is also very complex with conventional operational systems.

Customization at the point of sale is also fast-growing, particularly for skin care or makeup. Foundations and lipsticks can now be manufactured on-site, at the counter, in front of the customer, using microfactories, offering thousands of possible combinations. This is offered for example by SkinCeuticals with a customized skin care service called "Custom D.O.S.E.", or Lancome's "Teint Particulier". In the case of "Teint Particulier", a Lancome beauty consultant guides each customer and starts the consultation with a skin scan at three different places in order to accurately analyze the type and color. An algorithm interprets the data collected in order to define the ideal foundation formulation. Thanks to its superior chromatic sensitivity to that of the human eye, the algorithm makes it possible to opt for the color perfectly suited to each complexion. The custom formula is then prepared in-store in around twenty minutes. While the color can be adjusted, so can the level of hydration and covering power, with 72,000 possible combinations.

At the present time, there is no product offering or cosmetic method for customizing texture, while ensuring for example the same stability or a consistent effectiveness of active ingredients regardless of the texture. One of the main challenges of customization is that of having a simple, agile and rapid formulation system enabling the custom-made customization of a skin care product in all the aspects thereof, including the texture.

The problem also arises of knowing how to emulsify oils, disperse fillers and add thermolabile active ingredients (or those sensitive to high levels of shear) quickly and at ambient temperature without heating, for more safety and for guaranteed quality (reproducibility), on small quantities for customization with a low-energy mixing tool.

Therefore, there remains a genuine need to provide novel methods or novel kits, using novel formulation base compositions, hereinafter "blocks", for creating and preparing easily, by mixing said cosmetic blocks together, an entire range of cosmetic textures, and thus enabling full customization.

Moreover, consumers are increasingly environmentally aware, expect more natural ingredients, need reassurance on the ingredients of cosmetic formulas, in particular on their safety, their small environmental footprint, their origin, or their renewable nature.

The aim of the present invention is that of providing formulas fulfilling this search for environmental responsibility, prudent, more restrained consumption of cosmetic products that are both simpler but also more precise, freshly prepared, on demand and "custom-made". These formulas must correspond perfectly with their skin, their wishes and their environment.

Therefore, the aim of the present invention is that of developing a kit and a method for block formulation, that is both minimalistic but sufficiently robust in terms of stability criteria, to be able to adapt to various formulation environments, when mixing said blocks, and thus make it possible to obtain stable customized compositions regardless of the requested final texture.

In any case, it should be noted that the mixing efficiency is less than that of industrialized cosmetics. Consequently, to ensure the stability and quality of these mixtures, it is necessary to design novel pre-formulated cosmetic preparations (also known as "cosmetic blocks") that are easy to assemble and mix according novel agile manufacturing methods, particularly "block" formulation. Thus, this trend toward extreme customization generates a need for novel types of formulations, and particularly of methods capable of formulating quickly on demand.

Therefore, the aim of the present invention is that of designing a kit or method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition from robust formulation "blocks" that can be combined in a "bespoke" manner with different functional blocks by means of a low- energy stirring (particularly by means of a Speedmixer®) and at ambient temperature (typically 25°C).

An aim is also that of facilitating access to customization of a skin care product, in a few minutes, in all the aspects thereof (texture, skin finish, visual effect, hydration, active ingredients, photoprotection, etc.). The question also arises of knowing how to adjust the texture without diluting the performances expected by the consumer (hydration, absorption of active ingredients, optical effects, covering power, color, etc.). According to a conventional approach, the formulator creates a formula by associating raw materials used in situ according to a defined manufacturing method. If it is sought to adjust the texture or the color, they must remanufacture the formula from scratch. This approach is therefore not directly accessible for a consumer.

As a general rule, the texture is adjusted by adjusting the water and by compensating on the formula as a whole which can dilute the final performance of the formula. It is rarer to compensate on the surfactant system at the risk of compromising the stability of the formula. This texture adjustment is all the more crucial for certain professions and particularly foundation makeup as formulators are subjected to the effects of pigments on the final texture (e.g., yellow pigment thickens textures substantially). Being able to adjust the texture without affecting the final color or the covering power would be a real advance in formulation.

The aim of the present invention is thus that of designing a kit and method for preparing customized cosmetic products, enabling, agility, saving time, saving energy, quality and speed of preparation, of each customized end product.

The applicant surprisingly discovered that all of these aims can be achieved by the kit according to the present invention.

Summary of the invention

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

- Firstly, a Textural block (a) comprising: - a formulation base composition (hereinafter also referred to as main block or "MB" of the formula) and

- an aqueous phase (Water Block); and

- Secondly, a Functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions, wherein said compositions (b) and (a) respectively are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product, for the skin, mucosa, skin appendages or hair; wherein said formulation base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides wherein the alkyl chain comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and

D) water.

Preferably, said formulation base comprises A) at least two diols comprising at least:

- a first principal diol chosen from those from list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1 ,3- propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those from said list A1 and/or those from list A2 consisting of diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, said mixing of the Kit blocks is carried out by means of an asymmetrical mixing device, particularly with planetary motion, such as a Speedmixer®.

Advantageously, said mixing is carried out at a temperature less than 50°C, preferably less than 30°C, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 30°C, preferably from 18 to 25°C.

Advantageously, said mixing is carried out directly in the final receptacle of said cosmetic composition.

According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic product of customized texture, using a kit as defined above, wherein said textural block (a) is mixed with one or more functional block(s) (b), said mixing being carried out preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 50°C, preferably at ambient temperature within the range from 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 25°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably under stirring according to a stirring speed within the range from 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final receptacle of said cosmetic product.

According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic care, makeup or makeup removal method for the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising the application on the skin, hair and/or lips of a composition obtained according to the method as defined above.

The kit according to the invention particularly comprises the use of a robust specific formulation base, for the manufacture of at least one customized texture cosmetic product, wherein said base is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or more other compositions (blocks), particularly pre-formulated, said mixture being produced preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 50°C, preferably at ambient temperature within the range from 15 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 25°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably under stirring according to a stirring speed within the range from 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final receptacle of said cosmetic product.

The present invention thus proposes the use of a minimalist simple universal base ("main block" with an industrial quality) which already has the appearance of a cream with an interesting basic sensory effect (fresh/hydrating with no soaping or tacky effect) and which has the ability to stabilize at ambient temperature one or more raw materials ("functional blocks") from several families such as Fatty substances, Water, Active ingredients, Gelling agents, Fillers, Pigments. The base block can be mixed with the functional block(s) at ambient temperature directly in the packaging or final receptacle with a low-energy mixing tool, preferably of the asymmetrical or planetary type (such as a Speedmixer®), but heating the whole is not excluded. Incrementation with the kits according to the invention makes it possible to explore a wide range of textures (from lotions to serums, and including creams to balms) and sensory effects for care or hybrid makeup and care (BBcream) applications for varied zones ranging from the face, hair, to the body. The present kit and method for preparation by blocks, using a robust formulation base block, enables a quick custom formulation by simply combining said base block / textual block with different functional blocks, and makes it possible to explore an entire range of textures, sensory effects and benefits with a performance at least equal to conventional formulas, manufactured according to a conventional industrial method by mixing raw material by raw material.

Detailed description of the invention

According to the present invention, and unless indicated otherwise:

"Keratin materials" refers to the skin, mucosa and/or skin appendages. Preferably the keratin materials are the skin, particularly facial skin, mucosa such as lips, and/or skin appendages such as eyelashes.

The compositions according to the invention can be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, they are cosmetic compositions.

The composition according to the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable medium. In the present invention, "cosmetically acceptable medium" refers of a non-toxic medium, compatible with keratin materials, particularly with the skin (including inside the eyelids), mucosa, hair or lips of humans. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and texture, and intended for topical application.

"Soluble or solubilized compound" refers to a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and only forms a single homogenous phase when it is incorporated in the liquid.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

In the description and the examples, unless indicated otherwise, the contents and percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore generally expressed by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, unless indicated otherwise. The ratios are also weight ratios. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise. Speedmixer® (particularly DAC400) more specifically refers to a mixer operating on the principle of an asymmetrical centrifuge, by planetary motion with an acceleration of 400G and a speed ranging from 800 to 2750 rpm.

Effective composition refers to a robust basic composition with respect to the different possible constraints (pH, salts, dilution, heating, cold emulsification with a low energy, etc.) that can be applied by adding other (blocks of) raw materials with a view to diversifying textures.

"Robust" composition refers in particular to a composition which meets at least the following criteria (as defined and measured according to the protocols specified hereinafter in Table 1 of the examples):

•being stable at a wide pH range, to enable the antimicrobial protection of the formula and the pH-dependent activity of certain active ingredients;

•being stable at high temperatures at 45°C, and at 75°C to enable the hot introduction of ingredient blocks, particularly based on molten wax, and ensure the possibility of obtaining a texture of balm or butter consistency;

•being insensitive to electrolytes, in particular resistant to the presence of NaCI type salts, to enable the introduction of mineral water, such as Vichy water or La Roche Posay water without any risk of instability associated with the presence of mineral salts, or ensure stability following the addition of certain ion-charged active ingredients;

•being stable in dilution with the presence or fatty substances or not, and in particular: •being capable of emulsifying at ambient temperature (25°C) the fatty substances, such as plant oils, with a low-energy tool such as a Speedmixer®;

•being stable in dilution in water and thus ensuring the possibility of obtaining a texture of mist/serum/lotion consistency.

- According to the invention, "stable composition" refers to a composition which, after 2 months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, exhibits no macroscopic change of color, odor, or viscosity, but which remains on the other hand homogeneous and regular, which does not separate (no separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase) or release oil.

- "very stable" composition refers to a composition which, after centrifugation (3700 rpm 1 h), shows no change of texture (no drop in viscosity or consistency) at TO (after manufacture), or after 2 months in an oven at 45°C (storage and accelerated aging).

According to the present invention, "principally" or "principal" means that the compound is the principal one among the compounds of the same type in the composition, i.e., it is the compound which represents the largest quantity by mass among the compounds of the same type. Preferably, the mass of this compound represents at least 50% of the total mass of the compounds of the same type in the composition. For example, in a system comprising a single fatty alcohol, the latter is principal according to the present invention; and in a system comprising two fatty alcohols, the principal fatty alcohol represents at least half, preferably more than half, of the total mass of the fatty alcohols, in other words the mass of this fatty alcohol represents at least 50% of the total mass of the two fatty alcohols. In the same way, a so-called principal diol is that representing the greatest mass from all of the diols of the composition, particularly regardless of the type of diol, including those of type A1 or A2 as defined according to the invention. On the other hand, the principal diol A1 is that representing the greatest mass from all the diols A1 of the composition. If the composition only contains 2 diols A1 of equal content in the composition, they are both at 50% by weight, therefore either can be considered as the principal diol A1 in the composition according to the invention.

KIT

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

- Firstly, a textural block (a) comprising a formulation base composition and an aqueous phase; and

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

D) water.

Advantageously, said mixing is carried out by means of an asymmetrical mixing device, particularly with planetary motion, such as a Speedmixer®. Advantageously, said mixing is carried out at a temperature less than 50°C, preferably less than 30°C, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 30°C, preferably from 18 to 25°C. Advantageously, said mixing is carried out directly in the final receptacle of said cosmetic composition. Preferably, said mixing is carried out according to a mixing speed within the range from 300 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 1000 to 3000 rpm. Said mixing is preferably performed for a time of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes, preferably of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably of 1 to 5 minutes, preferably of 1 to 4 minutes, preferably of 1 to 3 minutes, preferably of 1 to 2 minutes. Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

- the textural block (a) represents a content from 35 to 95%, preferably from 40 to 90%, preferably from 50 to 85%, preferably from 60 to 80%, preferably from 70 to 80%; and

- the functional block (b) represents a content from 5 to 65%, preferably from 10 to 60%, preferably from 15 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 40%, preferably from 20 to 30%; by weight, with respect to the total weight of the final formula representing 100%. Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

- the formulation base represents from 40 to 100%, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight;

- the aqueous phase representing from 0 to 60%, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight; with respect to the total weight of the textural block (a) representing 100%.

Advantageously, the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formulation base (f) with respect to the quantity of aqueous phase (e), adjusts the texture of the final formula, according to the following formulation rules:

T > 1 gives a cream

T =1 gives a serum

T<1 gives a lotion.

Preferably, the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase representing 100%.

In the Kit according to the invention, said at least one functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks:

1 ) sensory or skin finish block, particularly comprising fatty substances, such as oils;

2) visual effect block, particularly comprising fillers and/or dyes;

3) active ingredient blocks, particularly comprising moisturizing, firmness, anti-aging, clarifying, or anti-blackhead agents;

4) protective block, particularly comprising anti-UV filters; and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, in the kit according to the invention, modulating T does not modify the cosmetic effect produced by the or said functional block(s) in the final formula.

Thus, the kit according to the invention, by enabling a block formulation, ensures that the cosmetic effect produced by the or said functional block(s) is independent from T, i.e., the cosmetic effect produced by the or said functional block(s) is the same regardless of the texture of the final formula.

Formulation base of "main block" of the formula or "MB"

The kit according to the invention uses a formulation base (also referred to as main formulation block, hereinafter "MB"), preferably comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

A) at least two diols comprising at least:

- a second diol different from the first and chosen from those from said list A1 and/or those from list A2 consisting of diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms;

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

D) water.

The applicant observed that this formulation base used according to the invention, based on water, a mixture of specific fatty substances (fatty alcohol and alkylpolyglucosides) and a mixture of specific diols, according to preferred ratios, provides a robust and therefore customizable formulation base (or main formulation block "MB") associated with other blocks in a Kit according to the invention and particularly according to a low- energy method at ambient temperature. It forms a common base for the composition of different cosmetic products with very varied textures.

Furthermore, the formulation base composition used according to the invention itself has a stable cream texture without needing the addition of gelling agent, which contributes to the minimalist aspect thereof and the permissivity thereof to vary the texture, particularly by simply diluting in water without being concerned about destabilization.

Fatty alcohol The formulation base composition used in the kit according to the present invention comprises at least one, and preferably at least two, fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

According to the invention, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol comprising: a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear, alkyl chain, said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

"Hydrocarbon chain" refers to an organic group consisting principally of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

A fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention is formed from a fatty chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

"Fatty alcohol containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms" refers to any alcohol comprising a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear, alkyl chain, said chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

Preferably, the fatty chain of said fatty alcohols is chosen from the following units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, and arachidyl units.

The fatty alcohols particularly suitable for the invention can be chosen from the cetyl alcohol sold under the trade name LANETTE 16 by COGNIS, or the stearyl alcohol sold under the trade name LANETTE 18 by COGNIS, or the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO, or the cetearyl alcohol sold under the trade name LANETTE O OR by COGNIS; mention can furthermore be made of arachidyl alcohol such as the commercial products HAINOL 20SS® from KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); and mixtures thereof.

The base composition used according to the present invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the total fatty alcohol content in the base composition used according to the invention is within the range from 1 to 20%, preferably from 1 .5 to 15%, preferably from 2 to 12%, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%. According to the present invention, said fatty alcohols comprise at least one principal fatty alcohol present in a content by weight greater than or equal to that of each of the other fatty alcohols present in the composition, preferably said principal fatty alcohol representing more than 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of fatty alcohols present in the composition, the total weight of fatty alcohols representing 100%.

According to the present invention, the INCI name of the cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18) is CETEARYL ALCOHOL, and although it includes a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C16) and stearyl alcohol (C18), it counts as a single fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) in the composition according to the present invention. The cetearyl alcohol is therefore associated with at least one other fatty alcohol, preferably associated with at least two other fatty alcohols, containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention, such as for example arachidyl alcohol (C20) and/or behenyl alcohol (C22).

Preferably said at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms comprise cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

Advantageously, the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of comparatively higher average chain length. In other words, of all said fatty alcohols, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol of radical R’ in the composition is all the greater (compared to the other fatty alcohols) as the chain length of the Alkyl radical R’ thereof is smaller.

Preferably the at least two fatty alcohols B) containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms comprise at least one fatty alcohol of lower average chain length and at least one fatty alcohol of higher average chain length.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol of lower average chain length comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol of higher average chain length comprises from 20 to 22 carbon atoms.

For example, the fatty alcohol contents in the composition according to the invention are such that the cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18 mixture) content > the arachidyl alcohol (C20) content > the behenyl alcohol (C22) content. In the example cited above, cetearyl alcohol is therefore the principal fatty alcohol according to the present invention.

Preferably, said principal fatty alcohol is chosen from: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol, preferably chosen from cetearyl alcohol. Advantageously, said principal fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the invention according to a content within the range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Alkyl polyglucosides

Alkyl polyglucosides (hereinafter abbreviated as "APG"), optionally polyalkoxylated, can be chosen in a group comprising the compounds having the following general formula: R¹O-(G)_a, wherein R¹ denotes a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical, and/or a phenyl alkyl radical, including from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the group G a sugar including from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl polyglucoside can be chosen particularly from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohols and methyl glucose. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen particularly from cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl units and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.

According to a preferred embodiment, said at least two alkylpolyglucosides are chosen from cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl polyglucoside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.

By way of examples of additional alkyl polyglucosides optionally present in the composition in addition to those defined above according to the present invention, mention can also be made of decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective trade names "PLANTAREN 2000" and "PLANTAREN 1200".

The APGs that can be used in the composition according to the present invention advantageously chosen from: cetearyl glucoside optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), marketed for example under the trade name "MONTANOV 68" by Seppic, under the trade name "TEGO Care CG90" by Evonik Goldschmidt and under the trade name "EMULGADE KE 3302" by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the trade name "MONTANOV 202" by Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35:65) marketed under the trade name "MONTANOV 82" by Seppic, the octyldodecyl xyloside marketed under the trade names "FLUIDANOV 20X" or "EASYNOV" by Seppic.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) (is)are chosen from "MONTANOV 68" or "MONTANOV 202" by Seppic.

Preferably, the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of comparatively higher average alkyl chain length. In other words, and preferably in an MB composition according to the invention, an APG of longer alkyl chain length has a lower content than that of an APG of comparatively shorter alkyl chain length. Or else, the content by weight of each APG in the composition is all the lower as the chain length of the Alkyl radical of said APG is greater. Thus, between two APGs, that of the two with the longest alkyl chain is preferably present according to a content less than or equal to that of the two APGs which has the shortest chain.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidylpolyglucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1 ; preferably comprise, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1 .

Advantageously, the total APG content is within the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 4%, preferably from 0.5 to 3.5%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, the MB composition according to the invention comprises two types of fatty substances:

- at least two alkylpolyglycosides (also known as "APGs") of formulas (I) and (II):

R1 O(G1 )x1 (I)

R2O(G2)x2 (II) wherein R1 and R2 each represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G1 and G2 each represent a saccharide residue, and x1 and x2 each represent a number between 1 and 5; and

- at least two fatty alcohols of formula R'OH, wherein R' in a linear or branched aliphatic radical, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably wherein the alkyl part is identical to the alkyl part R1 , R2 of the alkylpolyglycosides cited above;

- preferably, the content by weight of each APG in the composition is all the greater as the chain length of the radical R1 or R2 is shorter;

- preferably, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol in the composition is all the greater as the chain length of the radical R’ is shorter.

Preferably, in the formulation base composition used in the kit and method according to the present invention, the weight ratio of the total fatty alcohol content to the total APG content is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than 1 .

According to a preferred embodiment, said composition comprises the following specific mixture of APG and fatty alcohols:

- from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight of arachidyl alcohol;

- from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.75% by weight of arachidyl glucoside;

- from 0.1 to 3%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol;

- from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 8%, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight of cetearyl alcohol;

- from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.2 to 3%, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of cetearyl glucoside; in association with diols and water, as defined according to the invention; said composition being in the form of a formulation base or in the form of a final cosmetic formula.

Diols or glycols

The base composition used in the kit according to the present invention comprises at least one, or preferably at least two diols or glycols. According to the invention, diol refers to a hydrocarbon chain including at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only two hydroxyl groups. The diol can be a natural or synthetic diol. The diol can have a linear, branched or cyclic structure.

The formulation base composition advantageously comprises at least two specific diols comprising at least:

The diol(s) A1 is(are) chosen from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol-1 ,3; and mixtures thereof.

According to a first specific embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise propylene glycol and 1 ,3-propanediol; preferably, they consist of propylene glycol and 1 ,3-propanediol.

According to a second specific embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and 1 ,3-propanediol; preferably, they consist of dipropylene glycol and 1 ,3-propanediol.

According to a third specific embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; preferably, they consist of dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol.

Preferably, said at least one diol A2 contains from 5 to 8 carbon atoms.

When it is present in the composition used as a base in the kit according to the invention, the diol(s) A2 is(are) advantageously chosen from diethyleneglycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the diol(s) A2 is(are) advantageously chosen from: pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; preferably comprises (comprise) at least hexylene glycol.

Advantageously, the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s), particularly any A1 +A2, with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .75; preferably greater than 1 .85. Preferably, the weight ratio R1 of the total quantity of diol(s) A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the weight ratio R1’ of the quantity of principal diol A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

According to a specific embodiment, the weight ratio R1 ” of the total quantity of each diol A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol being less than 1 .

Preferably, the weight ratio R2’ of the total quantity of principal diol A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is less than 1 .

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio R2” of the total quantity of each diol A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is less than 1.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the contents by weight are such that: the principal diol A1 content > or = the principal fatty acid content > the principal diol A2 content, with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Preferably, the contents by weight in the composition are such that: the content of each diol A1 > or = the principal fatty acid content > the content of each diol A2, with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, the total content of diol(s) A1 is within the range from 5% to 40%, preferably from 7% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Preferably, the content of any diol(s) A2 is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably is within the range from 0.5 to 5%, preferably from 1 to 4%, preferably from 1 to 3.5%, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

Advantageously, said diols can be present at a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Water- Aqueous phase

The kit, and in particular the base cosmetic composition used in the kit according to the present invention comprises water, and forms an aqueous phase with at least the diols present according to the present invention. The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

A water suitable for the invention can be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a spring water.

In the present invention, water-soluble solvent refers to a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents suitable for use in the composition according to the invention can furthermore be volatile.

Of the water-soluble solvents suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention, mention can particularly be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, including other than said diols according to the invention and having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, pentyleneglycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

The composition preferably comprises water in a content ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 95% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase is present, preferably, in a concentration from 2 to 99% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably within the range from 20 to 80% by weight, more specifically from 30 to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, the quantity of water in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, or greater than or equal to 70% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The quantity of water in the composition according to the invention varies preferably within the range from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight, and more specifically from 45 to 75% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to an embodiment, said glycol(s) according to the invention and the water described above can be present in the composition according to the invention in a mass ratio of said glycol(s) to water, for example ranging from 0.05 to 5, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1 .

Other Ingredients

Advantageously, said at least one other cosmetic ingredient mixed with the formulation base defined above, is chosen from: fatty substances that are liquid at the temperature of said mixing, particularly oils, such as plant, mineral or synthetic silicone or non-silicone oils; water; gums; resins; UV filters, fillers, pigments, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium oxides; non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, particularly heat-sensitive active ingredients; water-soluble solvents; perfumes; peptizing agents; vitamins; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, said mixing comprises the dispersion and/or emulsification of at least one fatty substance liquid at the mixing temperature, preferably the emulsification of at least one oil, preferably in aqueous continuous phase.

Sensory or skin finish block - Fatty substance - Fat phase

The fat phase preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It may further contain other fats.

"Oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound, which is not water-miscible, and liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

A fat phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, according to the invention can comprise optionally fluorinated, silicone, hydrocarbon oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid of silicone oil(s).

A composition comprising a limited silicone oil content is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less tacky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising 2% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

"Non-volatile" refers to an oil of which the vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero and less than 10^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

According to the present invention, "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one SiO group.

The term "fluorinated oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

"Hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing principally hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or more, preferably one, carbonate or ester group.

The oils can optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

According to the invention, "volatile oil" refers to any oil capable of evaporating on contact with skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, particularly having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (103 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

Mention can be made in particular of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Mention can also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more specifically from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, and the mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11 ) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 in application WO 2008/155059 held by Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

Mention can also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin:

- a mixture of branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that which is marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name EMOGREEN® L15;

- a mixture of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that which is marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name EMOGREEN® L19.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and/or branched CI SCI 9 alkanes, in particularly a mixture of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes.

In particular, such hydrocarbon oils can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 15.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

As volatile silicone oils, mention can be made of linear volatile silicone oils, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As cyclic volatile silicone oils, mention can be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Mention can also be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated oils and/or silicone oils.

As a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as squalane, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2, wherein R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can be, in particular, chosen from fatty alcohol and acid esters, such as for example, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isonony isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol;

C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, non-phenyl silicone oils, such as for example caprylyl methicone, and phenyl silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.

In particular, the composition can further comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

"Non-polar oil" according to the present invention refers to an oil wherein the solubility parameter at 25°C, 5_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)¹/2.

The definition and calculation of Hansen three-dimensional solubility parameters are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint TechnoL 39, 105 (1967).

According to the Hansen space:

5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; 8_P characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

8_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen, acid/base, donor/acceptor bonds, etc.); and

8_a is determined by the equation: 8_a = (8p² + 8h²)^1/z.

The parameters 8_P, 8_h, 8_D and 8_a are expressed in (J/cm³)^1/2.

The non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil is free from oxygen atoms.

Preferably, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from mineral or synthetic linear or branched hydrocarbons. In particular, it can be chosen from: paraffin oil or derivatives thereof, petrolatum oil,

Polybutylenes, for example Indopol H-100 (having a molecular weight or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, for example Parleam® sold by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW =1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by Witco (MW=1000 g/mol), decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers for example Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, and mixtures thereof.

Said non-volatile oil can also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

As examples, mention can be made of mono-, di- or tri- esters.

The ester oils can particularly be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil is preferably chosen from: monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R1 COOR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, isoamyl laurate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R1 COOR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention can be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. In particular diesters of carboxylic diacid and of monoalcohols can be used, such as preferably diisostearyl malate or the diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the trade name Dermol DGDIS by Akzo); triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diol such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4- butanediol. Mention can particularly be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthesis under the trade name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or polyol and diacid dimer copolymers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA; dimer diol and mono- and dicarboxylic esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol esters carboxylic diacid dimers, in particular that can be obtained from a carboxylic diacid dimer particularly derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, particularly C8 to C34, particularly C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly C18, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymers, such as for example the one sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by ISP (MW=7,300 g/mol); plant-based hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides (liquid at ambient temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; in particular, mention can be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol and the esters of formula R1 COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as isoamyl laurate.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof. In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 6.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 10.0% to 20.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The other fatty substances that can be present in the oily phase are for example fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, other from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-T ropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1 -4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicon elastomers such as the products marketed under the trade names "KSG" by Shin-Etsu, under the trade names "Trefil" or "BY29" by Dow Corning or under the trade names "Gransil" by Grant Industries.

As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention can preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.

Such waxes can be chosen from lauric or lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention can preferably comprise at least one butter, in particular a plant butter.

The plant butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen in the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, karite butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is karite butter.

These fatty substances can be selected in varied ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the sought properties, for example consistency or texture properties.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 atoms, mixtures of C15-C19 linear and/or branched alkanes, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, triglycerides of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of C15-C19 linear and/or branched alkanes, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fat phase, particularly such oils are in particular present in the kit or in the final formula according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the kit or the final formula.

Visual effect block - fillers and/or dyes

Fillers

As mentioned above, a kit or a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, optionally modified starches, boron nitride, polymeric fillers, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof.

For example, a filler content of at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, advantageously makes it possible to formulate a composition according to the invention having both a stability and sensory properties that are satisfactory.

Moreover, the nature of the filler affects the rheological properties and/or sensory properties of the composition. For example, the fillers advantageously make it possible to formulate an emulsion having a good compromise between fluidity and thickness, not leaving a greasy and/or shiny finish after application.

Talc

As an example of talc suitable as fillers according to the invention, mention can be made of those marketed under the trade names LUZENAC PHARMA LIMO (average size 2.7 pm) by WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS).

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

The silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (via drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel method in a liquid medium then dried usually via the extraction of a supercritical fluid, with the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to prevent the contraction of the pores and of the material. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) varying from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as a volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) varying from 1 to 1500 pm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined using the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) method corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering by means of a Malvern MasterSizer 2000 type commercial granulometer. Data are processed based on Mie's scattering theory.

The aerogels that can be used according to the present invention are particularly hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferable of silica silylate (INCI name: silica silylate). "Hydrophobic silica" refers to any silica for which the surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference can be made to the document US 7,470,725.

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate, will preferably be used.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, mention can be made for example of the aerogel marketed under the trade name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m/g. Mention can also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1200.

The silica aerogel in particular silica silylate particles can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles The N-acylated amino acids suitable as fillers comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl, preferably lauroyl, group.

The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a preferred embodiment, the C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids are lauroyllysine particles. For example, mention can be made of the lauroyl lysine powder marketed under the trade name AMIHOPE LL® (average size 11 .7 pm) by AJINOMOTO. The C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 6% to 25% by weight.

Starches

The starch molecules suitable as fillers according to the present invention can be sourced from any plant sources of starch, particularly cereals, vegetables and tubers. More specifically, they can consist of corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat, tapioca starch. The starch is preferably derived from corn.

As examples, mention can be made in particular of Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; B® corn starch from Roquette; potato starch modified by 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda marketed under the trade name Structure Solanace® by National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the trade name Tapioca pure® by National Starch.

The modified starch can be a (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch, also referred to as "carboxyalkyl starch". These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups on one or more alcohol functions of the starch, particularly by reacting starch and monochloroacetate of alkali metals such as sodium in alkaline (basic) medium. The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used is the form of salts and particularly of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as Na, K, Li, NH₄, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as mono, di or triethanolamine. The (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches that can be used according to the present invention are preferably carboxymethyl starch sodium salts (INCI name: SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH), in particular a carboxymethyl starch sodium salt, such as those sold under the trade name PRIMOJEL® by DMV International or GLYCOLYS® and GLYCOLYS® LV by Roquette. The optionally modified starch(es) can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 % to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight.

Boron nitride

Boron nitride is a chemical compound having the formula BN.

The boron nitride preferably has a primary number average size between 1 and 50 pm, more preferably between 1 and 30 pm, more preferably between 1 and 25 pm, and even more preferably between 5 and 15 pm.

According to the present invention, "primary particle size" refers to the maximum dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or using the specific surface area measurement with the BET method, or via a laser granulometer.

As a commercial boron nitride that can be used in a composition according to the invention, mention can in particular be made of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, particularly under the trade names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

The boron nitride can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 .0% to 8.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.0 to 6.0% by weight.

Polymeric fillers

"Polymeric filler" is intended to refer to any filler formed from polymer particles, optionally cross-linked, including homo- and co-polymers.

Such polymeric fillers are for example poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), hollow polymeric microspheres, in particular polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid (co)polymers such as the hollow spherical polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder sold under the trade names COVABEAD LH85 (average size 7.5 pm) by SENSIENT or TECHPOLYMER MBP-8 (average size 7.5 pm) by SEKISUI PLASTICS, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular, cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes optionally coated with silicone resin, particularly silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the trade name KSP-100® (average size 4.3 pm) or KSP-300® (average size 6 pm), by Shin Etsu, (INCI name: VINYL 15 DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER), organosiliconate particle powders, for example in the form of bowls or rugby balls such as those described in JP-2003 128 788, JP-A- 2000- 191789, or in the application EP1579841 and marketed in particular under the trade names NLK506© (average size 2.6 pm) and NLK602© (average size 2.3 pm) by TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon 12, those sold under the trade name ORGASOL® 2002 (average size 9 pm) by ARKEMA, or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold under the trade name POLYTRAP® 6603 (average size 12.2 pm) by DOW CORNING.

Metal oxides

The fillers according to the invention can also be chosen from metal oxides, for example iron, zinc, titanium, zirconium, aluminum oxide, preferably iron oxide.

The metal oxide(s) can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 7% to 15% by weight.

A composition according to the invention comprises preferably at least 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, optionally modified starches, boron nitride, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from Cs- C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, optionally modified starches, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 3%, or at least 6%, by weight of at least one filler as defined above.

In particular, such fillers can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content between 6.0% and 60% by weight, particularly between 8.0% and 50% by weight, in particular between 10% and 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the kit or the final composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders.

The term "filler" should be understood to denote inorganic or synthetic, colorless or white particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers used in the present invention can be characterized by the specific surface area per unit of mass or per unit of volume thereof, the size thereof expressed in volume mean diameter D(4,3), the non-compacted density thereof, and/or the oil absorption capacity thereof.

The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined using the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) method described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area is the total specific surface area of the particles considered.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM X p ; where p is the compacted density expressed in g/cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Within the scope of the present invention, this density can be evaluated using the following protocol, called compacted density:

40 g of powder is poured into a graduated test tube; the test tube is then placed on the STAMPF VOLUMETER ST AV 2003 apparatus; a series of 2500 compactions is then applied to the test tube (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured on the test tube directly. The compacted density is then determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (where Vf is expressed in cm³ and m is expressed in g). The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and annotated Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured using the Wet Point method or the method for determining oil take-up of powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder according to the Wet Point measurement, as described below:

A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil into the powder, it is mixed using a spatula and the addition of oil is continued until oil and powder conglomerates are formed. After this stage, oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be allowed to spread on the glass plate without crazing and without the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil take-up corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The sizes of the fillers can be measured by static light scattering by means of a Malvern MasterSizer 2000 type commercial granulometer. Data are processed based on Mie's scattering theory. This theory, precise for isotropic particles, can determine an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described particularly in the book by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a specific embodiment, the fillers that can be used in the present invention have an oil absorption capacity from 0.25 g/g to 3,5 g/g, preferably from 0.93 g/g to 2.5g/g, or from 1 .25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.

According to a specific embodiment, the fillers that can be used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 pm to 40 pm, preferably from 0.5 pm to 20 pm, and even more preferably from 1 pm to 16 pm.

According to a specific embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have a noncompacted density ranging from 0.2 g/cm³ to 2.2 g/cm³.

According to a specific embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 m²/g, and more specifically from 150 to 800 m²/g.

In the present application, "spherical particles" refers to particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 pm, more specifically from 1 to 20 pm, and preferably from 1 to 16 pm.

As examples of porous silica microbeads, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300 from MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH in particular Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201 , H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically Satinier M13 and M16, MSS-500 silicas from KOBO, and more specifically MSS-500-20N, as well as Silica Shells from KOBO.

According to a specific embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles that can be used within the scope of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume mean diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 pm, preferably from 1 to 20 pm, and more specifically from 4 to 15 pm.

As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention can in particular be made of the solid cellulose beads marketed under the trade names CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a specific embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it consists of the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that which is marketed under the trade name AMIHOPE LL by AJINOMOTO or that which is marketed under the trade name CORUM 5105 S by CORUM.

Dyes

A composition according to the invention can furthermore comprise at least optionally particulate, optionally water-soluble, dye, and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is capable of varying significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the color intensity provided by the dyes in question and the adjustment thereof clearly falls within the remit of the skills of a person skilled in the art.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, particularly from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 .0% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of dyes, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

As specified above, the dyes suitable for the invention can be water-soluble, but also liposoluble.

According to the invention, "water-soluble dye" refers to any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of dyeing.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention can in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

According to the invention, "liposoluble dye" refers to any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or fat-soluble solvents and capable of dyeing.

As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention can in particular be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes such as for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (□-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

The particulate dyestuffs can be present at a rate of 0.01 % to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition containing them.

They can be pigments, nacres and/or metallic-glint particles.

"Pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution, and are intended for coloring and/or opacifying the composition containing them.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, particularly from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 .0% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it can comprise at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight and more preferably at least 15% by weight, of pigments, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic.

As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention can be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

They can also consist of a pigment having a structure that can be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of around 30.

They can also consist of pigments having a structure that can, for example, be of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, and this pigment consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.

"Nacres" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape which are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell or else are synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles at the surface whereof are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyes.

By way of example of nacres, mention can also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention can be made of Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome nacres (based on mica) marketed by Engelhard, Timiron nacres marketed by Merck, nacres based on Prestige mica marketed by Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica marketed by Sun Chemical.

The nacres can more specifically possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

According to the present invention, "metallic-glint particles" refers to any compound of which the nature, size, structure and surface condition enable it to reflect incident light particularly non-iridescently.

The metallic-glint particles that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: - particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative; - particles including a single-material or multi-material, organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic-glint layer comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

- mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention can, for example, be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

As an illustration of these particles, mention can be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the trade names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by Siberline and Metalure® by Eckart and glass particles coated with a metallic layer in particularly those described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541 , JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Hydrophobic dye treatment

The powdery dyes as described above can be completely or partially surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, to render them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition according to the invention, particularly so that they have a good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.

Hydrophobically treated pigments are in particular described in the document EP-A- 1086683.

The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The term alkyl mentioned in the above-mentioned compounds particularly refers to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Active ingredient" functional block Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can furthermore comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient can be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

"Hydrophilic active ingredient" refers to a water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredient capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

As hydrophilic active ingredients, mention can be made for example of moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, matting agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional active ingredient(s) can be chosen from: vitamins and derivatives thereof, in particular the esters thereof, such as niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide) nicotinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E) and the esters thereof (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof (vitamin C), retinol (Vitamin A), humectants or moisturizing agents such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylglucoside and plant extracts (particularly tea, mint, orchid, soya, aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol;

C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (or proxylane); antioxidant compounds; anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and particularly sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid; and mixtures thereof.

C-glycoside compounds

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular having the following general formula:

[Chem 4]

S'^X— R wherein:

R denotes a non-substituted C1-C4, particularly C1-C2, linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;

S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

X represent a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH₂)-, and preferably a - CH(OH)- group; as well as the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical isomers thereof.

As a non-restrictive illustration of the C-glycosides) more specifically suitable for the invention, mention can particularly be made of the following compounds:

C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

1 -(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

1 -(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

1 -(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

3’-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2’-one;

3’-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2’-one;

1 -(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;

1 -(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; as well the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical isomers thereof.

According to a specific embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C- alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxy-propane (or proxylane), is used.

According to a specific embodiment, a C-glycoside having the formula illustrated above suitable for the invention can preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, particularly available under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®, Mexoryl SCN® or Mexoryl SCS® by Noveal. The C-glycoside salts that are suitable for the invention can comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

By way of example, mention can be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention can also be made of organic acid salts, which can include one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group(s). They can consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids can further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention can particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

The acceptable solvates for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention can be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol. The C-glycosides having the formula illustrated above are known from document WO 02/051828.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C- glycoside in a quantity between 0.1 % and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and more specifically between 1 .0% and 5.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Niacinamide compound

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from niacinimide compounds, in particular chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide. According to a preferred embodiment, the niacinamide compound is niacinamide.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of adenosine or analog, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Adenosine and analogs thereof

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from adenosine and analogs thereof. Among the adenosine analogs that can be used according to the invention, mention can in particular be made of adenosine receptor agonists and compounds increasing intra and extracellular adenosine levels.

Examples of adenosine analogs comprise 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2', 3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, 1 -methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside; 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate; 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyl-adenosine ("PIA"), 1 -methylisoguanosine, N-6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2- chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6- phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-Methylcarboxamido- adenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N- cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl) adenine ("EHNA") and iodotubercidin.

Adenosine is particularly commercially available in powder form from PHARMA WALDHOF.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 1 % by weight of adenosine or analog, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Ascorbic acid and derivatives

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from ascorbic acid, also known as Vitamin C, and/or one of the derivatives thereof.

The ascorbic acid can be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and the analogs thereof chosen from the salts thereof, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

As ascorbic acid derivative, mention can be made in particular of ascorbic acid sugar esters and phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salts.

The ascorbic acid sugar esters that can be used in the invention are in particular glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated N- acetylglucosaminated, N-acetylmuramic ascorbic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-a-D glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-p-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and the preparation methods thereof are in particular described in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and J05213736.

For its part, the phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The ascorbic acid derivatives suitable according to the present invention can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by Exsymol, dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by Hayashibara.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is preferably used.

A composition according to the invention can in particular comprise from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of the derivatives thereof, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof.

Within the scope of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof" particularly covers the base hyaluronic acid unit having the formula: [Chem 5]

It consists of the smallest hyaluronic acid fraction comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The term "hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof" also comprises within the scope of the present invention the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, along a chain with alternating glycoside bonds (3(1 ,4) and (3(1 ,3), having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight is largely dependent on the source for obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the preparation methods. The term "hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof" also comprises within the scope of the present invention hyaluronic acid salts and particularly alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and potassium salt.

In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the base substance of the connective tissue of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissue and in particular in the epidermis, in joint synovial fluid, in vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli process.

Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof" comprises all of the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight particularly within the molecular weight range noted above.

Within the scope of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions having no inflammatory activity.

As an illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference can be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the recorded biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to the molecular weight thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the target application of the present invention have a molecular weight between 50000 and 5000000, in particular between 100000 and 5000000, particularly between 400000 and 5000000 Da. In this case, reference is made to high-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can also be suitable for the target application of the present invention have a molecular weight between 50000 and 400000 Da. In this case, reference is made to intermediate-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively again, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be suitable for the target application of the present invention have a molecular weight less than 50000 Da. In this case, reference is made to low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof" also comprises hyaluronic acid esters particularly those wherein all or some of the carboxyl groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenylated alcohols or alkyls, including from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, particularly with a substitution rate at the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

Mention can particularly be made to the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have particularly been described in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101 -2127.

The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

Hyaluronic acid can in particular be supplied by Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1 x 10⁶), by Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820000 Da), by Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69000 Da), by Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or by Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

In an embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in sphere form. In particular, such spheres are marketed by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. It consists of a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely of MW 1.5 x 10⁶, 400000 and 600000 Da.

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Hyaluronic acid or one of the derivatives thereof is present in a composition according to the present invention in a content between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more specifically between 0.2% and 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Salicylic acid compounds

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound present in a composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and compounds having the following formula:

[Chem 6]

wherein:

- the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated carbon chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that can be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or by a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups optionally being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a hydroxyl group; as well as the salts thereof from a mineral or organic base.

Preferably, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 1 1 carbon atoms; an unsaturated carbon chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more optionally conjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains optionally being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as the salts thereof obtained by salt formation with a mineral or organic base.

The most particularly preferred compounds are those wherein the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group.

Of the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds, mention can be made of n- octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl -5-salicylic acid; n- dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.

The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5- salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds having the formula illustrated above can be obtained by salt formation with a mineral or organic base. As example of mineral base, mention can be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Of the organic bases, mention can be made of amine and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in the patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly advantageous. The compounds having the formula illustrated above that can be used according to the invention are described in the patents US 6,159,479 et US 5,558,871 , FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607498, US 4,767,750, EP 378936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP- A-570,230.

According to an embodiment, a composition according to the invention can comprise a salicylic acid compound in a quantity between 0.05% and 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1 % and 2% by weight, more specifically between 0.2% and 1 % by weight.

Plant extract

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one plant extract, in particular an aloe vera extract.

The aloe vera extract can be present, in a composition according to the invention, at a content of at least 0.01% by weight, and at most 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The substance preferably used is known under the trade name ALOE VERA FREEZE DRIED POWDER 200:1 from MEXI ALOE LAB.

Retinol

In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A.

According to the present invention, "retinol' is intended to refer to all the isomers of retinol, particularly all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11 -cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4- didehydroretinol.

Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

A composition according to the invention can comprise a quantity of retinol between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, particularly between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the active substance, also referred to as dry matter, content of retinol introduced into the composition.

According to a specific alternative embodiment, retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a plant oil, for example soybean oil, particularly in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably of about 10% by weight in the oil.

Those marketed by BASF, particularly under the trade name Retinol 10SU, with 10% by weight of active substance in soybean oil are particularly suitable. According to another specific embodiment, retinol can also be used in an encapsulated form.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and particularly sodium hyaluronate; salicylic acid compounds, and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, lactic acid, adenosine and analogs thereof, plant extracts, retinoids, in particular retinol, niacinamide compounds; and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one antiaging cosmetic active ingredient, in particular chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more specifically chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active ingredient(s), in particular anti-aging active ingredient(s), preferably from 1% to 8% by weight of active ingredient(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to an embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from C-glycoside compounds, preferably chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxy-propane, and preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or proxylane).

Protective block - UV filters

Organic UV filters

The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters.

"Hydrophilic UV filter" refers to any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

"Lipophilic filter" refers to any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fat phase or be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fat phase.

"Insoluble UV filter" refers to any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and that has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in water and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic compounds such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility at 70°C is defined as the quantity of product in solution in equilibrium in the solvent with an excess quantity of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

The organic UV filters are particularly chosen among cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p,p-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds particularly those cited in the patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p- aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071 , US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 19726 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described particularly in application WO-93/04665; □- alkylstyrene-derived dimers as described particularly in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.

Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those referred to hereinafter using their INCI name:

Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate particularly sold under the trade name PARSOL MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate particularly sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000® by Symrise

DEA Methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane particularly sold under the trade name PARSOL 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA particularly sold under the name "ESCALOL 507®" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P25®” by BASF.

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS®" by Symrise, Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL®" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS®" by Symrise. diphenylacrylate products:

Octocrylene particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL 539®" by BASF, Etocrylene, particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL N35®" by BASF, Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400®" by BASF,

Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 50®" by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M 40®" by BASF,

Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40®" by BASF, Benzophenone-5,

Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11®" by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name “UVINUL DS 49®” by BASF, Benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINIIL A Plus ®” or mixed with octylmethoxycinnamate sold under the trade name “UVINIIL A Plus B®” by BASF,

1 ,1 '-(1 ,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application W02007/071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (average size from 0.02 to 2 pm) that can be obtained for example using the micronization method described in applications GB- A-2 303 549 and EP-A-8931 19 and particularly in the form of an aqueous dispersion. Benzylidene camphor compounds:

3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD®" by CHIMEX,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300®" by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL®" by CHIMEX,

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO®" by CHIMEX,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX®" by CHIMEX,

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW®" by CHIMEX.

Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid particularly sold under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP®" by Haarmann and REIMER.

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole®" by RHODIA CHIMIE.

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol particularly sold in solid form as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB/100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size varying from 0.01 to 5 pm and preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant with a C_nH2n+i 0(C6HIOOS)XH structure wherein n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the (CeH Os) unit and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2303 549 particularly sold under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size varying from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more specifically from 0.02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one polyglycerol mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester with a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as aqueous dispersions described in application W02009/063392.

Triazine compounds:

- 3,3’-(1 ,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1 ,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, having the following chemical formula:

[Chem 1]

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl T riazone particularly sold under the trade name "UVINIIL T 150®" by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V,

- 2,4,6-tris-(dineopenyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application W02004/085412 (see compounds 6 and

9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) particularly 2,4,6-tris(di- phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine that is included in patent applications W006/035000, WO06/034982, W006/034991 , W006/035007, W02006/034992, W02006/034985, these compounds advantageously being in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 pm) that can for example be obtained using the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and particularly in aqueous dispersion form,

- triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 and particularly 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1 ,3,3,3- tetramethyl-1 -[(trimethyl silyl oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

Anthranilic compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA®" by Symrise.

Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX®" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

4.4-diarylbutadiene compounds:

1 ,1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene:

Benzoxazole compounds:

2.4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino- 1 ,3,5-triazine sold under the trade name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

Preferred organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5,

N-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2.4.6-tris-(dineopentyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine

2.4.6-tris-(diisobutyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine

- 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyl trisiloxane)-s-triazine,

2.4-bis(dineopentyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

2.4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 -[(trimethylsilyl- oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

2.4.6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

2.4.6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

1 ,1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

2.4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-

1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene

N-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first specific embodiment, the organic LIV filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Octocrylene,

Ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second specific embodiment, the organic LIV filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the organic LIV filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition is free from octocrylene. "Free from octocrylene" refers to a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or less than 0.5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

The organic UV filters can be present in a composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Additional UV filters

The composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters according to the invention are metal oxide particles with an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

They can be chosen particularly among titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments include products sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA.

The metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments on which one or several chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments have been made using compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, oxides of metals or sodium hexametaphosphate. The coated pigments are particularly titanium oxides coated with:

- silica such as the products "SUNVEIL®" from IKEDA, "SUNSIL TIN 50" from SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE,

- silica and iron oxide such as the "SUNVEIL F®" product from IKEDA,

- silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT100 SA" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from TIOXIDE,

- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" products from TAYCA, the "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" products from UNIQEMA and the "Eusolex T-AVO®" product from MERCK,

- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the "MT-100 AQ®" product from TAYCA,

- alumina and aluminum laurate such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" product from TAYCA,

- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" product from TAYCA,

- zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the "BR 351®" product from TAYCA, - silica and alumina treated with a silicone such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" products from TAYCA,

- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate treated with a silicone such as the "STT-30-DS®" product from TITAN KOGYO,

- silica treated with a silicone such as the "UV-TITAN X 195®" product from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- alumina treated with a silicone such as the "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®” product from ISHIHARA, or the "UV TITAN M 262®" product from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

- triethanolamine such as the "STT-65-S" product from TITAN KOGYO,

- stearic acid such as the "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" product from ISHIHARA,

- sodium hexametaphosphate such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" product from TAYCA,

- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805®" by DEGUSSA SILICES,

- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by CARDRE,

- TiO2 anatase/rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC®" by COLOR TECHNIQUES,

- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from CRODA,

- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA),

- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,

- TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the trade name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

Mention can also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and especially manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including capric/caprylic acid triglycerides. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can include one or more dispersing agents for example such as a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a fatty acid ester and a polyoxyalkylene glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersing agent chosen from among fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylene glycerol. More specifically, mention can be made of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3- POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by CRODA.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by DEGUSSA under the trade name "P 25", by WACKHER under the trade name "PW® transparent titanium oxide", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the trade name "UFTR®", by TOMEN under the trade name "ITS®" and by TIOXIDE under the trade name "TIOVEIL AQ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

- those marketed under the trade name "Z-cote" by Sunsmart;

- those marketed under the trade name "Nanox®" by Elementis;

- those marketed under the trade name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by Nanophase Technologies;

The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

- those marketed under the trade name "CS-5 zinc oxide®" by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogen siloxane);

- those marketed under the trade name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);

- those marketed under the trade name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogen siloxane);

- those marketed under the trade name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl-based copolymer in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); - those marketed under the trade name "SPD-Z1®" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

- those marketed under the trade name "Escalol Z100®" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture);

- those marketed under the trade name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

- those marketed under the trade name "Nanox Gel TN®" by Elementis (ZnO in 55% dispersion in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments can for example be those sold under the trade name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by RHONE POULENC.

The uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the trade names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®”, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R®)", or by MITSUBISHI under the trade name "TY-220®".

The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the trade names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by BASF under the trade name "TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE®".

Mention can also be made of metal oxide mixtures, particularly of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, of which the mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by IKEDA under the trade name "SUNVEIL A®", and the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the "M 261®" product sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the "M 211®" product sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments in particular are preferred.

When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the mineral UV filters can advantageously be present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Finally, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition obtained using a kit as defined above. Forms and textures of the compositions according to the invention

The cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises:

- firstly, a formulation base composition (a) of composition according to the invention, and

- secondly, one or more compositions (b), wherein said compositions (b) and (a) respectively are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously.

Advantageously, the kit and the method for mixing in blocks according to the invention enable the manufacture of at least one customized texture cosmetic product for example directly in the final receptacle. Said base composition (main block) is mixed in blocks, with one or more other compositions or blocks, particularly pre-formulated, said mixing being carried out preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 50°C, preferably at ambient temperature within the range from 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably under stirring according to a stirring speed within the range from 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 200 to 2800 rpm, preferably from 200 to 2500 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final receptacle (or pack or packaging) of said cosmetic product supplied to the user.

The composition according to the invention can be in liquid form, in the form of a serum, a milk, in thickened form, in particular a gel, a cream, a wax, a paste, a butter or in the form of foam.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises spherulites which respond in polarized light in the form of a Maltese cross with large oil droplets next to it with no birefringence around the droplets. Said appearance is notably measured using optical microscopy.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention shows an enthalpy strictly greater than 2,4 J/g, preferably greater than 5 J/g, as measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry).

The composition according to the invention can furthermore comprise one or more additional compounds chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, silicones in the form of oil, gum or resins or plant, mineral or non-silicone synthetic oils, LIV filters, fillers, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, perfumes, peptizing agents, vitamins and preservatives.

The technical characteristics described above in relation to the different ingredients of the MB composition used according to the present invention obviously also apply to any cosmetic composition prepared from the composition of this MB.

Finally, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic care, makeup or makeup removal method for the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising the application on the skin, hair and/or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

In terms of consumer experience, skin care customization is based on 3 key steps:

1 ) Diagnostics used to analyze the condition of the skin and recommend a customized routine to the consumer,

2) An e-ordering interface to define and order the customized produce, and finally

3) Receiving the customized products.

Technically, the overall customization offering can further comprise a diagnostic step to guide the recommendation for the consumer, to complete the simple and agile formulation system, particularly in blocks in the form of a kit according to the invention, which enables a wide range of textures and functions, as well as an industrial tool adapted to custom products such as the micro-factory.

Therefore, the present invention also relates to a method comprising at least the following steps:

1 ) a diagnostic step used to analyze the condition of the skin and recommend a customized routine to the consumer,

2) a step of ordering at least one customized kit, preferably via an e-ordering interface

3) an optional step of simple and agile formulation which enables a wide range of textures and functions

4) a step of receiving the customized kit(s) or the final formula by the consumer.

The composition according to the invention is not restricted to the embodiments described above.

Protocols for measuring the parameters mentioned and measured in the present description of the invention:

DTM biomechanical skin property (extensibility, tonicity) measurement protocol: The skin elasticity was evaluated, with the following DTM parameters: Extensibility lie and Tonicity Ur, using the apparatus available under the trade name Dermal Torque Meter® from DTM® Dia-Stron Limited, Andover, Hampshire, United Kingdom. This apparatus is used to study the skin's response to a deformation applied in the direction parallel with the surface thereof, as described in Escoffier C et al., Age-Related Mechanical Properties of Human Skin: an In Vivo Study, J. Invest. Dermatol., 1989, 93:353-357.

Study conditions: The measurements are made in an air-conditioned zone at a constant temperature 21 °C ± 1 °C and at constant hygrometry 45% ± 5% (recorded at each measurement). The subject is placed in the air-conditioned zones, measurement zones uncovered, 20 minutes before the measurement and throughout the measurement period. Consumption of coffee, tea and any other substance capable of causing perspiration is prohibited. The subjects must avoid any bending or friction on the test zones. During the measurements, the subjects must be sitting, with their forearms resting on a flat and rigid surface (table).

Product application: The sites, free from hair, are marked inside the forearms (4 sites on each forearm), using a mask and a pen which are not liable to run during product application. The exact measurement zones are delimited by a mask forming a 4 cm diameter circle. The control zone is required. The sites are randomized. The quantity of product applied is 2 mg/cm² under standard conditions. The product is applied by finger until full penetration. In the case of several products, the fingerstall must be changed before each application.

Measurements: The measurements must be made in double-blind mode, for each evaluation time and for each zone. Each zone is measured once in different zones.

Sample size: The evaluation is conducted on a sample of 24 subjects.

Descriptive analysis: A descriptive analysis is conducted on the demographic data. The quantitative variables are evaluated for each time and for [Ti-TO] for each formula, by calculating the mean, the standard deviation and the max and min values. The qualitative variables are evaluated by calculating the frequency.

Statistical analyses: Temporal effect for each formula - file split by the formula (8 with 7 formulas and one control: the untreated zone). Analysis of variance (ANOVA) with fixed factor (time), random factor (subject) on the raw data if the data observe the normal minimum otherwise in the ranks. Normality test conducted on residuals.

Time comparison with Tukey's test. Product comparison: Analysis of variance (ANOVA) on deltas (Ti-TO) with fixed factor

[products] and random factor [subject] on the raw data if the data observe the normal minimum otherwise in the ranks. Normality test conducted on residuals.

Product comparison with Tukey's test.

The statistical analysis is conducted using SPSS software.

Significant statistical probability (annotated "S") p<0.05 Probability close to significance (annotated "L") 0.05<=p<0.1 No significant probability (annotated "NS") p>=0.1

Materials and methods used in the present description of the invention:

- Planetary motion mixer: DAC400FVZ Speedmixer® TM. The mixer speed is set (in rpm) and the mixing time (in minutes) as indicated in the tests of the examples below.

- The viscosity of the composition is measured at ambient temperature (25°C) using a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer equipped with a No. 3 or 4 spindle (M3, M4), the measurement being made after 10 minutes of spindle rotation in the product (after which time, a stabilization of the viscosity and rotational speed of the spindle is observed), at a shear rate of 200 s-1. The results are given in DU (Deviation Unit), then using a chart transcribed to Poise then to Pa.s. Within the scope of the present invention, the cone/plane or plane/plane geometry was used.

- The consistency and flow behavior of the low-deformation samples were obtained with rheological measurements by means of Thermo Fisher Scientific Haake Mars III (Massachusetts, USA) rheometer using a cone/plane geometry. The samples were taken with a spatula (approximately 1 ml) from the center of the surface with the least possible shear. Thermo Fisher Scientific HAAKE RheoWin software was used. The program starts by lowering the disk to 1 mm above the plate. Then, the oscillating disk sweeps the sample with a deformation of 0.05 Pa to 500 Pa at a frequency of 1 Hz. The temperature is kept constant at 20±1 °C. The titanium disk has a conical shape and has been sandblasted, its dimensions are 60.005 mm in diameter, 0.053 mm in core diameter and a cone angle of 1.008°, its geometric factors 1.768x104 Pa/N.m for factor A and 56.84 (1/s)/(rad/s) for factor M. The complex shear modulus, G* (Pa), was obtained as a function of the deformation shear stress, T (Pa). The rheological behavior of the formulas was analyzed. Conservation modulus G’, loss or dissipation modulus G” measurements were used to determine the complex modulus G* and the phase shift 5 between the stress and the deformation. This data is analyzed as a function of the shear stress. The value of the complex modulus G* on the plate preceding the break of the curve, gives an idea of the consistency of the product at rest. Examples

The following examples make it possible to understand the invention better, without being in any way limitative.

Tests used in the examples to assess the robustness of the MB used in the kit according to the invention and associated Protocols:

[Table 1 ]

Example 1 - Comparison: methods according to the invention vs. conventional method The following compositions were prepared according to the methods described below: [Table 2]

Completely unexpectedly, for the cold emulsification method according to the invention Ex1 or Ex3, despite a coarse emulsion at ambient temperature with oil droplets of average size of 20 pm, the stability of the composition thus obtained is superior and the skin finish more natural ("NUDE") and less tacky than with the composition obtained with the conventional hot emulsification method of the comparative 2.

The method according to the invention, conducted cold (T° 20-30°C) with a mixing speed between 1000 and 3000 rpm is therefore particularly advantageous. Example 2 - Optimization of the MB used in the method according to the invention [Table 3]

Compositions Cp6 to Cp10 do not withstand the "first elimination tests" (Stability test at acidic pH (pH 4.5), Heating test at 45°C, Heating test at 75°C, 1 % NaCI Electrolyte sensitivity test):

Composition Cp6 is unstable at acidic pH and sensitive to electrolytes (1%NaCI). Cp7 is unstable at acidic pH; compositions Cp8 to Cp10 do not withstand at least one of the heating tests (45°C and/or 75°C).

Of all the surfactants tested (Potassium stearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Sucrose laurate/palmitate, Sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate/glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside) in association with Cetearyl alcohol in water, only Cetearyl glucoside from composition Cp5 (Alkylpolyglucoside, non-ionic) is robust to the "first elimination tests", and to the emulsification test of different types of oils, and to the stability at ambient temperature (2 months at 25°C). Cp5 is however not stable in the stability test at 45°C (2 months at 45°C).

Example 3 - Choice of fatty substances and optimization of fatty substance / diol contents in the MB

[Table 4]

The MB based on Cetearyl alcohol made it possible to effectively stabilize drops of oil emulsified at ambient temperature by means of a low-energy mixing tool (Speedmixer®). However, depending on the type of oils, solubilization of the fatty chains can occur during storage for 2 months at 45°C, fluidifying the system (creaming). Associating Cetearyl Alcohol with longer fatty chain fatty alcohols (Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol) made it possible to significantly improve this stability at the temperature of 45°C.

The table above indicates that the best results in the emulsification and stability tests of the cold-formed emulsions (25°C) were obtained for the following combination of ingredients in the following proportions:

- mixture of the following fatty substances, with contents by weight of each ingredient (INCI) with respect to the total weight of the composition meeting the following criteria: Cetearyl alcohol content > Arachidyl alcohol content > Behenyl alcohol content Similarly, superior results are observed if the following APGs are used and the contents of these APGs meet the following criteria in the composition:

Cetearyl glucoside content > Arachidyl glucoside content

- the propylene glycol and/or propanediol content, when it is greater than the Cetearyl alcohol content, makes it possible to stabilize the emulsion, in particular at 45°C.

The following tables also confirm this criterion of interest:

Propylene glycol content or propanediol content > content of each fatty alcohol.

Compositions Cp12 and Cp15 do not meet the latter criterion, do not pass the tests respectively of stability for 2m at 45°C and the cold emulsification test. Advantageously, these preferred criteria are valid for the MB composition and for the final composition incorporating the MB.

According to Cp14, when these preferred characteristics of order of content between the fatty alcohols are not observed, the formula is not completely robust: NOK for the salting test by adding electrolytes (1% NaCI) and NOK for the oil emulsification tests.

Preferably, according to the invention, the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is therefore: greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length. The contents are given by weight with respect to total weight of the composition.

Preferably, according to the invention, the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length: is greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of higher average alkyl chain length.

For Cp12, the oil emulsification by the MB after 2m 45°C is not stable. This shows the benefit of having a content by weight of diol A1 chosen from propylene glycol, 1 ,3- propanediol or di-propylene glycol preferably greater than or equal to the content by weight of principal fatty alcohol.

In the case respectively of Cp1 1 and Cp15 where the composition only contains a single alkylpolyglucoside, the stability test for 2m at 45°C, shows that the formula is not stable, NOK; and the salting test (1% NaCI), shows that the formula is not stable, NOK.

Dilution test and obtaining from the most fluid to the thickest textures

The MB of Ex13 was diluted with water at ambient temperature (25°C) to obtain a liquid consistency. Four different samples were prepared in the Speedmixer® with respectively 50%, 40%, 30%, 20% by weight of MB in water (q.s.100). Stirring was performed with a Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm.

The samples showed very different textures. All were stable even after centrifugation, and the visual and microscope observations were similar to those of the original MB sample (homogeneous appearance).

The rheometer analysis shows that the consistencies (G*: consistency of the product at rest) are in different ranges, ranging from 100 Pa (most fluid consistency for the most diluted MB) to 1300 Pa (thickest consistency for the least diluted MB in water).

Obtaining a butter by wax emulsification

The MB of Ex13 was used to emulsify 5% of paraffin wax. The product thus obtained has a consistency of butter, and has a particularly soft application on the skin.

The rheology 24 hours after manufacture indicates a consistency G*=1725 Pa.

The visual and microscopic observations show a similar dispersion to that of the MB at ambient temperature.

The method carried out using the main block according to the invention is robust, since it makes it possible to effectively stabilize the oil emulsions, without requiring stabilizer or additional gelling agent, and produce several stable textures, from the liquid consistency to butter consistency.

Example 4 - Choice of diols

[Table 5]

The best MB emulsification test results are obtained for MB compositions based on two diols, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol and di-propylene glycol, corresponding to Examples 19, 20 and 27 according to the invention. The compositions resulting from the cold emulsification, by the MB, of the oils in a Speedmixer®, are particularly stable for these glycols. The stability in the NaCI Test measured by ultracentrifugation is superior for Propylene glycol or Dipropylene Glycol in association with 1 ,3-propanediol. With pentylene glycol, 1 ,2- hexane diol, or caprylyl glycol (alone) the cold-emulsified composition is comparatively less stable, in particular in the NaCI Test, as the texture becomes more fluid once NaCI is added.

Preferably, propanediol is therefore used between 3 and 8%, associated with propylene glycol between 3 and 10% in the main block composition MB according to the invention. Hexanediol (7%) or Caprylyl glycol (7%), used alone, based on these contents, do not favor emulsification of the oils at ambient temperature with a Speedmixer® and the emulsions thus obtained (Cp25, Cp26) are not stable in the different tests, in particular the extreme tests (ultracentrifugation 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1%NaCI).

Nevertheless, when they are used combined with at least one of the above preferred diols, and used according to contents less than 4%, preferably within the range from 1 to 3%, preferably from 2 to 3%, by weight with respect to the total weight of the MB composition, the diol(s) containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms reduce soaping, thus improving the intrinsic sensory properties of the MB, without for all that creating instability problems during the emulsification of said MB, even un Ultracentrifugation tests, as shown in the following table, for several hexanediol contents.

[Table 6]

When it is introduced into the MB composition, said second diol different from the first diol, and containing from 4 to 8 atoms, preferably represents a content by weight less than 4%, preferably within the range from 1 to 3%, preferably from 2 to 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the MB composition. For this reason, in the MB composition used according to the invention, and to ensure the stability of the final emulsions incorporating it, the content by weight of each fatty alcohol is preferably greater than the content by weight of each of said optional diols A2 containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms (other than di-propylene glycol).

Example 5 - DTM test for two formulas of different textures: cream / serum

Composition of the textural blocks (main block and water block) used in the 2 examples of Kits (1 and 2) hereinafter according to the invention:

[Table 7]

Composition of Kits 1 and 2 according to the invention: [Table 8]

DTM test results:

They are identical for both formulas.

The formulas of the examples of Kits 1 and 2 improve all the biomechanical skin parameters: extensibility (Ue) and tonicity (Ur) for 4 hours.

Regardless of the texture obtained using the Kit, the block formulation according to the invention made it possible to improve skin hydration and firmness according to identical performances for both the serum (liquid fluid texture) and for the thick cream. Composition of the final formulas obtained using Kits 1 and 2

[Table 9]

Ultimately, the present invention succeeds in providing a kit making it possible, using a multipurpose and versatile formulation base composition, to design any type of cosmetic texture, and accurately meet each individual's requirements, by providing a cosmetic product that is most suited to the cosmetic experience sought without compromising on the expected performance.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic kit comprising:

A) at least two diols, containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;

B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

D) water.

2. Kit according to claim 1 , wherein:

- the functional block (b) represents a content from 5 to 65%, preferably from 10 to 60%, preferably from 15 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 40%, preferably from 20 to 30%; by weight, with respect to the total weight of the final formula representing 100%.

3. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein:

4. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formulation base (f) with respect to the quantity of aqueous phase (e), is greater than, equal or lower than 1 , and adjusts the texture of the final formula according to the following trends:

T > 1 gives a cream T =1 gives a serum

T<1 gives a lotion.

5. Kit according to claim 4, wherein the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase representing 100%.

6. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks:

1) sensory or skin finish block, comprising fatty substances, such as oils;

2) visual effect block, comprising fillers and/or dyes;

3) active ingredient blocks, comprising moisturizing, firmness, anti-aging, clarifying, or anti-blackhead agents;

4) protective block, comprising anti-UV filters; and mixtures thereof.

7. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the base composition comprises at least at least A) two diols comprising at least:

8. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diols with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .75; preferably greater than 1 .85.

9. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio R1 of the total quantity of diols A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

10. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RT of the quantity of principal diol A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

11. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio R1” of the total quantity of each diol A1 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1 .

12. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the formulation base comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol being less than 1 .

13. Kit according to claim 12, characterized in that the weight ratio R2’ of the quantity of principal diol A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is less than 1 .

14. Kit according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the weight ratio R2” of the total quantity of each diol A2 with respect to the quantity of principal fatty alcohol is less than 1 .

15. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of higher average alkyl chain length.

16. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidylpolyglucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1 ; preferably comprise, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1 .

17. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective content by weight of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length.

18. Method for preparing a cosmetic product of customized texture, using a kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said textural block (a) is mixed with the functional block (b), said mixing being carried out under stirring according to a stirring speed within the range from 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 50°C, preferably at ambient temperature within the range from 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature within the range from 15 to 25°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably from 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably directly in the final receptacle of said cosmetic product.

19. Non-therapeutic care, makeup or makeup removal method for the skin, including the scalp, hair and/or lips, comprising the application on the skin, hair and/or lips of a composition obtained according to the method of claim 18.