WO2023118972A1

WO2023118972A1 - Cuticle oil composition

Info

Publication number: WO2023118972A1
Application number: PCT/IB2022/051033
Authority: WO
Inventors: Deeleep Kumar Rout; Prateesksha ROUT
Original assignee: Almora Botanica Uk Ltd
Priority date: 2021-12-22
Filing date: 2022-02-07
Publication date: 2023-06-29

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising 15-80% by weight aqueous phase, 15-80% by weight a non-aqueous phase, and 30-45%% by weight emulsifier, and an oil- soluble active, wherein; (i) The non-aqueous phase comprises: 15-85% by weight of the non- aqueous phase C15-19 alkane and two or more non-aqueous ingredients selected from: C9-13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, coco caprylate, capric caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetyl ricinoleate, and; (ii) The emulsifier comprises: (a) 5-60% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-laurate, and; (b) 40-95% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

Description

CUTICLE OIL COMPOSITION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. It particularly relates to a cosmetic composition for nails.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART

The cuticle is a layer of clear skin located along the bottom edge of one’s finger or toe. The area is known as the nail bed. The cuticle function is to protect new nails from bacteria, when they grow out from the nail root. The area around the cuticle is delicate. It can get dry, damaged and infected. It is important to care for the entire nail area and keep it clean and healthy. Cuticle oil is often marketed and sold in the market to take good care of cuticle and entire nail bed.

Cuticles are also exposed to extreme cold, salty/chlorine/soapy water, hand- sanitiser containing alchols and gets chapped, cracked and dry In these cases of extreme dryness and damage, cuticle oil can help moisturize cuticle and nail, restoring it to health . Applying cuticle oil to nails can increase circulation around nails, stimulating nail growth. It can also help protect cuticle and nail from external trauma.

Cuticle oil can also help improve the appearance and nail health. Besides, this also can help in protecting nail polishes for a longer time.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that is relatively more stable, i.e. with relatively less problem of separation of phases.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that is stable at relatively low temperature. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that has transparency greater than 70%.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that can be applied on surface of nails without running off.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that is spreadable uniformly on nails by using an applicator such as a nail brush.

Yet further object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that has viscosity in the range 300-2000 mPa.S (measured at 30 deg. C) when measured at a shear rate of 21.2 s’¹, which would allow uniform spreadability on nails without running off

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising 15-80% by weight aqueous phase, 15-80% by weight a non-aqueous phase, and 30-45% by weight emulsifier, and an oil-soluble active, wherein;

(i) The non-aqueous phase comprises: 15-85% by weight of the non-aqueous phase C15-19 alkane and two or more non-aqueous ingredients selected from: C9- 13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, coco caprylate, capric caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetyl ricinoleate, and;

(ii) The emulsifier comprises:

(a) 5-60% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-laurate, and;

(b) 40-95% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

AQUEOUS PHASE

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises 15-80% by weight the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase is preferably 20-70% be weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably 25-60% by weight of the cosmetic composition, and most preferably 30-50% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Water

The aqueous phase comprises preferably water or aqueous solution.

NON-AQUEOUS PHASE

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises 15-80% by weight the non-aqueous phase.

The non-aqueous phase comprises: 15-85% by weight of the non-aqueous phase C15-19 alkane and two or more non-aqueous ingredients selected from: C9-13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, coco caprylate, capric caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetyl ricinoleate.

Weight ratio of aqueous phase to non-aqueous phase

It is preferred that the ratio of weight of the aqueous phase to the weight of the non-aqueous phase is from 0.5-1.5. The ratio of weight of the aqueous phase to the weight of non-aqueous phase is preferably 0.6-1.4, more preferably 0.7-1.3, further preferably 0.8- 1.2, and most preferably 0.9- 1.1.

C15-C 19 Alkane

Cl 5- 19 Alkane is a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Examples of C15-19 alkane include, but are not limited to Emogreen L19® (Sepic) Emosmart L19® (Sepic) Gemseal 40® (Total Special Fluids). The nonaqueous phase comprises 15-85% by weight C15-19 alkane. C15-19 alkane is preferably 25-80% by weight of the non-aqueous phase, more preferably 30-70% by weight of the non-aqueous phase.

C9-C13 Alkane

C9-13 Alkane refers to a mixture of alkanes with 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Preferably it is a mixture of undecane (C9) and tridecane (C13). Examples of C9-13 alkane include, but are not limited to Cetiol® Ultimate (BASF). The non-aqueous phase comprises 15-85% by weight C9-13 alkane. C9-13 alkane is preferably 15-50% by weight of the non-aqueous phase, more preferably 20-40% by weight of the non-aqueous phase and most preferably 25-35% by weight of the non-aqueous phase.

Isomyl cocoate

Examples of isoamyl cocoate available commercially include but are not limited to Tegosoft AC® (Evonik) and Oxismmoth Co® (Oxiteno). The non-aqueous phase comprises preferably 1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.5-8% by weight, and most preferably 2-7% by weight isoamyl cocoate.

Coco Caprylate

Examples of coco caprylate available commercially include, but are not limited to, Cetiol® C5 (BASF) Ercarel® (Ercawilmer) Domusare® (Domus Chemicals) Rotefan® (Ecogreen Oleo) Cremecoor Coco810® (cremer Oleo) Dub 810C ® (Stearinierie Dubois) Massocare® (Commmercial Chimica Masso) Lanol 2681® (Sepic) Miglyol 810 ® (IOI Oleo) Captex 170 ® (Abitech). The non-aqueous phase comprises preferably 1-25% by weight, more preferably 2-20% by weight, and most preferably 5-15% by weight coco caprylate.

Capric caprylic triglyceride

Examples of capric caprylic triglyceride available commercially include, but are not limited to, Razia® 7104 (Sepic), Velsan® (Clariant) Silk SC ® (Zchimmer & Schwartz), Emarol® 3139 (Chemir) Palmster® (KLK Oleo) Myritol® (BASF) GalMOL® (Galaxy). The non-aqueous phase comprises preferably 1- 25% by weight, more preferably 10-24% by weight, and most preferably 15-22% by weight capric caprylic triglyceride.

Dicaprylyl carbonate

Examples of dicaprylyl carbonate available commercially include but are not limited to Cetiol CC ® (BASF) Lonzest DC NT® (Lonza). The non-aqueous phase comprises preferably 1-25% by weight, more preferably 2-20% by weight, and most preferably 5-15% by weight dicaprylyl carbonate.

Cetyl Ricinoleate

Examples of cetyl ricinoleate available commercially include, but are not limited to Tegosoft CR ® (Evonik) Sabowax CR® (Sabo) DUB Rc ® (Stearineriie Dubois) Jeechem CER ® (Jeen Inti) Demol CTR ® (Alzo) Protachem CER ® (Protameen) Ambuchem CR ® (Ambuja Solvex). The non-aqueous phase comprises preferably 1-25% by weight, more preferably 1.5-8% by weight, and most preferably 2-7% by weight cetyl ricinoleate.

The non-aqueous phase preferably comprises Cl 5- 19 alkane and two or more non-aqueous ingredients selected from: C9-13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, coco caprylate, capric caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetyl ricinoleate. The preferred non-aqueous ingredients are:

Preferred nonaqeous phase compositions comprises any one of the following combinations:

(i) C 15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; and Cetyl Ricinoleate

(ii) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate

(iii)C 15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate; Capric caprylic triglyceride; Coco caprylate; Dicaprylyl carbonate

(iv)C15-19 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Capric caprylic triglyceride

(v) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Capric caprylic triglyceride; Coco caprylate; Dicaprylyl carbonate,

(vi)C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate;

Dicaprylyl carbonate

(vii) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate; Capric caprylic triglyceride

(viii) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Dicaprylyl carbonate; Isoamyl cocoate OIL-SOLUBLE ACTIVE

The oil- soluble active is preferably selected from:

(i) Unsaponifiables of a vegetable oil, or;

(ii) Extract of Bidens pilosa, or;

(iii) Extract of Apium graveolens, or;

(iv) Extract of Curcuma longa, or;

(v) a mixture thereof.

The weight ratio of the oil soluble active to the weight of the non-aqueous phase (without the oil soluble active) is preferably in the range 0.02:100 to 3:100, more preferably in the range of 0.05:100 to 1:100, and further preferably in the range 0.1:100 to 0.8:100, and most preferably in the range 0.1:100 to 0.6:100.

Unsaponifiables of a vegetable oil

Vegetable oils are mixture of triglycerides obtained from a plant source. Vegetable oils are preferably extracted from seeds or from other parts of fruits. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils obtained from seed include but are not limited to: soybean oil, grape seed oil, cocoa butter, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed seed oil, celery seed oil, and groundnut oil. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils obtained from parts of the plant other than the seed include, but are not limited to: olive oil, palm oil, and rice bran oil.

Unsaponifiables of a vegetable oil is that fraction of a vegetable oil that fails to form soaps when treated with alkali and remain insoluble in water, but soluble in organic solvents, such as diethyl ether.

Some examples of preferred unsaponifiables of a vegetable oil included unsaponifiables of sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) unsaponifiables, sesame oil (Sesamum indicum seed oil) unsaponifiables. Commercially available sunflower oil unsaponifiables include: SolineBio ® (EXPANSCIENCE LABORATORIES (France); Defensil (Rahn AG, Germany).

Commercially available shea butter unsaponifiables include NG Shea Unsaponifiables ® (Croda UK); Lipex L’sens (AAK, AB Swden; Nutrilip B, AQIA Quimika Inovativa, (Italy).

Commercially available sesame oil unsaponifiables include: Sesaline Bio ® (EXPANSCIENCE LABORATORIES (France); Hierogaline, Laboratoires Expansicence France.

Extract of Bidens pilosa

Yet another oil-soluble active is extract of Bidens pilosa. It is preferably an extract of flowers and fruits of Bidens pilosa. The extraction is preferably carried out using supercritical fluid extraction. It may be used as an active for its properties which include, but are not limited to skin-firming, lightening, anti-aging, antioxidant, skin hydration and anti-wrinkle. Bidens pilosa extract has a rich phytochemical composition, standardized in phytol. Bidens Pilosa extract is a BioRetinol with retinoids receptors activity, mimicking the same positive results that retinoids to fight against skin aging. Skin visibly look younger, luminous and firm, reducing wrinkles, improves skin elasticity and ECM redensification, once stimulates the synthesis of dermic proteins and growth factors. Revinage® increases ceramide 3 and NMF in the lips, improving protection and hydration. An example of commercially available active is Revinage® (Chemyunion, Brazil) which comprises 12-28% of extract of Bidens pilosa, oils and tocopherol.

Extract of Apium graveolens (Celery)

Extract of Apium graveolens is another oil soluble active that may be used. It is preferably obtained from seeds of Apium graveolens. The extraction is preferably carried out using supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. It may be used as an active for its properties which include, but are not limited to: nail plate thickness improvement; cuticle nourishment; hydration improvement; nail-plate underlying tissue cohesion promoter etc..

An example of commercially available active is Neonyca MB AL ® (Croda UK)

Extract of Curcuma longa

Another oils soluble active that may be used is an extract of Curcuma longa. The extract is preferably from callus of Curcuma longa. The extract is preferably by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. Curcuma Longa acts as an anti-stress wrinkles, emotional hydration manager and modulator of the Brain-skin connection. The active is the concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from Curcuma longa rhizome. This metabolome is rich in stress-related cell factors specially designed to act synergistically against brain-skin connection induced stress.

An example of commercially available extract is TURMERIA ZEN PRCF ® Vytus Biotech (France)

EMULSIFIER

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises 30-45% by weight emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier comprises;

(a) 5-60% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-laurate, and;

(b) 40-95% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

Poly glyceryl- 10-laurate

Polyglyceryl-10-laurate is a polyglycol fatty acid ester having number of carbon atoms and mean polymerisation degree represented by C12G10. Examples of commercially available poly glyceryl- 10-laurate include but are not limited to: S Face L-1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo), DUROSOFT® PG10L-SG (Stephenson Group), Emulpharma® ECO10 (Res Pharma), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L ( Nikkol), and SYNETH L15 K RSPO MB ® (Lonza Switzerland). Polyglyceryl-10-laurate is preferably 5-60% by weight of the emulsifier, more preferably 30-60% by weight of the emulsifier, most preferably 35-55% by weight of the emulsifier. It is further preferred that polyglycerol-10- laurate is 20- 50% by weight of the emulsifier

Polyglvceryl-lO-oleate

Polyglyceryl-10-oleate is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester having number of carbon atoms and mean polymerisation degree represented by C18:lG10. Examples of commercially available poly gly eery 1-10-oleate include but are not limited to: DUROSOFT® PG10-O (Stephenson Group), S Face O-1001A (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo), SAEACOS PG-180 (The Nisshin OilliO Group), NIKKOE Decaglyn 1-OV (Nikkol), and SYNETH 013 K RSPO MB (Lonza, Switzerland). Poly gly eery 1-10 oleate is preferably 40-95% by weight of the emulsifier, more preferably 40-70% by weight of the emulsifier, most preferably 45-65% by weight of the emulsifier.

Mass ratio of poylglyceryl-lO-oleate to polyglceryl-10-laurate

The mass ratio of poylglyceryl-10-oleate to polyglceryl-10-laurate is preferably in the range 0.25:2.0, more preferably 0.4:1.5, and most preferably 08:1.2

Viscosity of the cosmetic composition

The viscosity of the cosmetic composition at shear rate of 21 per second is preferably in the range 300-2000 cP. The viscosity of the cosmetic composition at shear rate of 21 per second is preferably greater than 400 cP, more preferably greater than 500 cP and most preferably greater than 600 cP. The viscosity of the cosmetic composition at shear rate of 21 per second is preferably less than than 1500 cP, more preferably less than 1200 cP and most preferably less than 1000 cP. These values are measured at 30 °C, unless otherwise specified.

Water soluble active

The aqueous phase preferably comprises a water soluble active. The water soluble active is preferably selected from : Neem Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica leaf extract (Taiadvance, Provital, France); Withania somnifera (Ashwagandha, Neoplanta, Evonik, UK); Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) seed polysaccharide (Xylogel HS) from Givaudan Active Beauty, France; Hedychium Coronarium (White Ginger Lily) root extract (Sakadkium, Seppic France); Albiziz julibrissin Bark extract and Darutoside (BeutyFye, CRODA, UK); Cystoseria Tamariscifolla (Rainbow Algae) Cy White G from COFIF, France.

The water soluble active is preferably 0.05 to 10 % by weight of the aqueous phase, more preferably 0.1-5% by weight of the aqueous phase, and most preferably 1-4% by weight of the aqueous phase.

The viscosity of the non-aqueous phase of the composition at shear rate of 21 per second is preferably less than 25 cP, more preferably less than 20 cP, and most preferably less than 10 cP. The viscosity of the non-aqueous phase at shear rate of 21 per second is preferably greater than 0.5 cP, more preferably greater than 1 cP and most preferably greater than 2 cP.

Transmittance (%) of the cosmetic composition at 460 nm is preferably greater than 30%, more preferably greater than 50%, and further most preferably greater than 75%. It is preferred that the cosmetic composition is substantially transparent.

EXAMPLES

The invention will now be demonstrated by use of examples. The examples are for the illustration purpose only and do not in any way limit the scope of the invention.

Materials

The cosmetic compositions of the examples were prepared using the following materials: C15-19 alkane (Emogreen L19) was procured from SEPPIC, France. C9-13 alkane (Undecane+Tridecane) was procured from BASF, India.

Isoamyl cocoate (Tegosoft AC) was procured from Evonik India.

Capric caprylic triglyceride (Radia 7104) was procured from Evonik India.

Coco caprylate (Cetiol C5) was procured from BASF India.

Dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) was procured from BASF, India.

Cetyl ricinoleate (Tegosoft CR) was procured from Evonik, India.

Bidens Pilosa extract (Revinage) was procured from Chemyunion Brazil.

Polyglyceryl-10-laurate (SYNETH L15 K RSPO MB) was procured from Lonza, Switzerland.

Polyglyceryl-10-oleate (SYNETH 013 K RSPO MB) was procured from Lonza, Switzerland.

Preparation of the cosmetic composition

The cosmetic compositions were prepared as follows:

Preparation of the cosmetic composition: (Non-aqueous phase, aqueous phase, emulsifier)

(1) Emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-10-laurate and Polyglyceryl-10-oleate were mixed together using magnetic stirrer

(2) Non-aqueous phase: To the above mixture, all the ingredients of nonaqueous phase were added, whilst stirring using magnetic stirrer, and heated to 50 degrees Celsius using hot plate

(3) Oil-soluble active: To the above mixture, the oil-soluble active was added and mixed using magnetic stirrer.

(4) Water: Deionized water was gradually added to the above mix whilst stirring using magnetic stirrer and ensuring the temperature of about 50 degrees Celsius using hot plate (5) The cosmetic composition was allowed to cool to room temperature (25 degrees Celsius).

Measurement of solubility (solidification temperature) of oil-soluble active in the non-aqueous phase:

The solidification temperature of Revinage® (oil- soluble active) in the nonaqueous phase was determined by carrying out the Oscillatory shear test using the Anton Paar MCR 92 rheometer with a cone and plate geometry (stainless steel, 5 cm dia, 1 degree cone angle). The storage and loss moduli were measured at 1 Hz frequency. The temperature was ramped down from 45 °C to -3 °C at the rate of 1° C/min. The following settings were used in the RheoCompass software: Strain 0.1%

No. of datapoints 100

Time interval between data points: 24 secs

Total time 2400 seconds

Starting Temperature: 45 °C

The solidification temperature of the oil-soluble active was determined by noting the temperature at which storage modulus becomes larger than the loss modulus. The solidification temperature indicates the temperature below which the oilsoluble active starts solidifying. The solidification temperature is thus the temperature below which phase separation of the active takes place. The nonaqueous phase and oil-soluble active mixture thus is thermally stable above the solidification temperature, and unstable below the solidification temperature.

Measurement of stability of the cosmetic compositions

The stability of the cosmetic compositions was measured at 45 degrees Celsius, 30 degrees Celsius and 5 degrees Celsius. Following protocol was used to measure the stability.

Protocol for cosmetic composition’s Stability and appearance The cosmetic composition (20 g.) was taken in a transparent, graduated Tarson tube (Polyethylene make) and then placed in a stability chamber (T= 30 and 45°C) for 24 hours. The stability chambers were maintained at temperatures with a SD of +- 1 degC. Relative humidity of the stability chambers were maintained at 75 +-1 %. After 24hrs, the samples were removed from the stability chamber to check for their visual appearance.

Cloudy appearance is denoted by an opaque milky sample. In such a case, the graduations on the centrifuge tube cannot be seen when held against a light source (incandescent light, 40 W) and viewed from the opposite side of the tube.

Slightly Cloudy appearance is denoted by a translucent brownish yellow sample. In such a case, the graduations on the centrifuge tube appear hazy when held against light and viewed from the opposite side of the tube.

Clear appearance is denoted by a transparent sample. In such a case, the graduations on the centrifuge tube appear distinct when held against the light and viewed from the opposite side of the tube.

The above steps are followed after samples were equilibrated in stability chambers as well as in refrigerator at deg 7 degrees Celsius.

For repeat measurements, the samples were shaken by hand before equilibrating at respective temperatures.

The observations of stability of the cosmetic composition are recorded using the following codes:

S - Stable (most preferred)

C - Slightly Cloudy (Acceptable)

N - Not stable (phase separation) - Not acceptable Measurement of % transmittance:

The %T measurements are carried out by an UV-VIS spectrophotometer (wavelength region 400-700 nm) with a cell of cell length 10 mm. The % T at 460 nm value is taken as % transmittance.

Measurement of viscosity of the non-aqueous phase/cosmetic compositions:

To measure the viscosity, an Anton Paar MCR 92 rheometer was used. A cone and plate geometry (stainless steel, 5 cm dia, 1 degree cone angle) was used for the measurement. The shear stress and viscosity were measured during a shear rate ramp (from 0.1 to 100 (1/s)). The following settings were used in the RheoCompass software:

No. of datapoints: 50

Shear rate at which the viscosity value was observed: 21.2 s ¹

Time interval between data points: 6 secs

Total time: 300 seconds

Starting shear rate: 0.1 s ¹

EXAMPLES OF NON-AQUEOUS PHASE (EXAMPLES 1-15): TABLE 1

The table below gives examples the non-aqueous phase. The values in the table indicate ingredient weight % by weight of the non-aqueous phase.

TABLE 1

SOLUBILITY OF OIL-SOULBLE ACTIVTE IN THE NON-AQUEOUS PHASE OF EXMAPLES A-O, AND VISCOSITY OF THE NON-AQUEOUS PHASE: TABLE 2 Revinage® was added to the EXAMPLES 1-15 such that ratio of the weight of the active (Revinage®) to the weight of the non-aqueous phase(without Revinage) was 10:100.

In the table 2 below, the values of solidification temperature of the active Revinage in the non-aqueous phase and the viscosity of the non-aqueous phase are tabulated.

TABLE 2

The solidification temperature represents the temperature below which phase separation of the active occurs. The lower values of solidification temperature indicate more stable non-aqueous phase without separation of the active. Lower values of viscosity are more preferable.

STABILITY OF THE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS (TABLE 3): as a function of emulsifier% by weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions of the examples below were prepared using the following components, by using the protocol described earlier.

(1) The first column show Emulsifier % by weight of the cosmetic composition, followed by aqueous phase % by weight of the composition and non-aqueous phase% by weight of the composition, respectively in that order, e.g. an entry in the Table: “5, 47.5, 47.5”, means the composition comprising 5% by weigh emulsifier, 47.5% by weight aqueous phase and 47.5% by weight non-aqueous phase, and so on.

(2) non-aqueous phase (without active), had constituents of the EXAMPLES 3,8,11,12,1,6,13 and 15, as tabulated below. (3) Active Reviange® at a wt ratio of 10:100 the active to the rest of nonaqueous phase

(4) Emulsifier was a 1:1 mixture of polyglyceryl-10-laurate and polyglyceryl- 10-oleate.

TABLE 3

Note: Each entry in the Table has three letters, with each letter representing stability at different temperatures. The first letter represents stability at 45 degree Celsius, the second letter represents stability at 30 degree Celsius and the third letter represents stability at 5 degree Celsius. Following letters are used to indicate stability:

S - Stable (most preferred)

C - Slightly Cloudy (Acceptable) N - Not stable (phase separation) - Not acceptable

A dash in the Table indicates that the stability was not measured. From the results it can be seen that the cosmetic compositions where emulsifier % by weight of the composition is 30% or above have better temperature stability as compared to the compositions where emulsifier % by weight of the composition is 20% or lower. Furthermore, compositions, where emulsifier % by wt. is greater than or equal to 45 %, it is not stable at all temperatures (5 to 45 °C).

VISCOSITY OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

Cosmetic compositions of the examples below were prepared using the following components, by using the protocol described earlier.

(1) aqueous phase (water) was 36% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

(2) non-aqueous phase (without active), was 36% by weight of the composition, and having constituents of the EXAMPLES 3, 11, and 13 as tabulated below.

(3) Active Reviange® at a wt ratio of 10:100 the active to the rest of non- aquesous phase

(4) Emulsifier was 28% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The emulsifier was a mixture of polyglyceryl-10-laurate and polyglyceryl-10-oleate, with the polyglyceryl-10-laurate 50% by weight of the emulsifier, whilst the polyglyceryl-10-oleate constituted the remaining 50% by weight of the emulsifier.

The viscosity of cosmetic compositions comprising non-aqueous phase of Ex 3, Ex 11 and Ex 13 were measured and tabulated below.

TABLE 4

All the compositions are within the scope of the invention. The values of the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions in the above range are particularly suitable

18 for application on nails/cuticles. (Too high a viscosity hinders spreading whilst too low viscosity causes composition to run off).

STABILITY OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AS A FUNCTION OF of 5 POLYGLYCEROL- 10-LAURATE %BY WEIGHT OF EMULSIFIER (TABLE

5)

(1) aqueous phase (water) was 36% by weight of the cosmetic composition. 0 (2) non-aqueous phase (without active), was 36% by weight of the composition, and having constituents of the EXAMPLES 3, 8,11,12,1,6, 13, and 15 as tabulated below.

(3) Active Reviange® at a wt ratio of 10:100 the active to the rest of non- aquesous phase 5 (4) Emulsifier was 28% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The emulsifier was a mixture of polyglyceryl-10-laurate and polyglyceryl-10-oleate, with the polyglyceryl-10-laurate % by weight of the emulsifier varying as tabulated in Column 1 of the Table 0 TABLE 5

From the results above, it can be seen that certain cosmetic compositions show better stability when the poly gly eery 1-10-laurate is either less than 70% by weight of the total emulsifier or greater than 5 % by wt. of the total emulsifier. Many stable compositions could be seen when the polyglyceryl-10-laurate is between 40 % to 50 % by wt. of the total emulsifier.

Claims

Claims:

1 . A cosmetic composition comprising 15-80% by weight aqueous phase, 15- 80% by weight a non-aqueous phase, and 30-45%% by weight emulsifier, and an oil- soluble active, wherein;

(i) The non-aqueous phase comprises: 15-85% by weight of the nonaqueous phase C15-19 alkane and two or more non-aqueous ingredients selected from: C9-13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, coco caprylate, capric caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetyl ricinoleate, and;

(ii) The emulsifier comprises:

(a) 5-60% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-laurate, and;

(b) 40-95% by weight of the emulsifier polyglyceryl-10-oleate.

2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the emulsifier comprises 20-50% by weight of the emulsifier polyglycerol-10-laurate%.

3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the oil-soluble active is selected from:

(i) Unsaponifiables of a vegetable oil, or;

(ii) Extract of Bidens pilosa, or;

(iii) Extract of Apium graveolens, or;

(iv) Extract of Curcuma longa.

4. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the oil-soluble active to the weight of the nonaqueous phase is preferably in the range 0.02:100 to 12:100.

5. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein ratio of weight of the aqueous phase to the weight of the nonaqueous phase is from 0.5 -1.5.

6. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein transmittance (%) of the cosmetic composition at 460 nm is greater than 30%.

7. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the viscosity of the cosmetic composition at shear rate of 21 per second is in the range 300-2000 cP.

8. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the nonaqeous phase comprises any one of the following combinations:

(i) C 15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; and Cetyl Ricinoleate

(ii) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate

(iv)C15-19 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Capric caprylic triglyceride

(vi)C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Isoamyl cocoate;

Dicaprylyl carbonate

(viii) C15-19 alkane; C9-13 alkane; Cetyl Ricinoleate; Dicaprylyl carbonate; Isoamyl cocoate.